This video is a prime example of quality over quantity. No fancy transitions, filler videos to over emphasize, no extra commentary. Transparent, informational and straight to the point. A good example of old fashion and I wish more people in my generation did this.
Finally a video that is totally unbiased. Thank you for making this and actually taking the time to explain the differences between the two. Really a well done video I hope you make some more.
Agreed this was an amazing video, I was looking at buying a safe that looks VERY similar to the safe on the right but after this video I'll be doing much more investigating into the safe before purchasing thank you for this video!
Joseph M The only thing he didn't mention is the difference in price. $1000-$1500 for the "cheap" safe vs $3000-$4000 for the good safe. No safe is theft proof. The real question that needs to be answered is WHAT are you protecting... and FROM what? If you don't have irreplaceable values and you are simply wanting to protect yourself from the kids getting to your guns, you don't need a top of line safe. After all, homeowners insurance will cover losses of your REPLACEABLE collection.
The Safe Keeper Insurance comp. will only cover a specific amount on certain items such as cash, firearms, jewelry and any type of collections, such as stamps, coins, manuscripts ect.... You must declare such items and and have a addendum added to your policy. Remember Insurance comp. will not pay if they can weasel out of doing so..
+Jeremiah Puckett He did actually mention the difference in price towards the end of the video. He went out of his way to say that it was not his intention to pick on the cheaper safe, that it was a good safe for its price point.
both of them can be opened with grinder in about 5-10 min. just get your self el cheapo for insurance purposes. take look at other videos on youtube how they open this "more safe" safe and more expensive in minutes... :)
Zo Mi+ nothing is foolproof that is why you have multiple layers of security. i have a security system in my house that will make the cops respond Within 5 minutes. try cutting phone line n.f.g. mine dails out thought wireless. good luck cutting into my vault pro before the cops get you or I get home. nothing is foolproof. That's why you have to have multiple layers home owners insurance does not cover guns or jewelry
Legion Etrangere I know what you're saying with the NRA Insurance because I am a lifetime member. But the only problem is can they replace my father's shotguns and handguns. That is why I have multiple layers of security. I can replace any one of the ones I've purchased but I can't replace my dad's. And I'm sure you probably feel the same way
I'm that guy you love to hate I hear you man, absolutely. I don't have any heirlooms like that myself. My dad is still alive and well, but I'll want at least a few of his guns when he's gone.
sam farley Secure your safe with electronic sensors! AVIS is WiFi for your safe. Immediately texts you if the safe is attacked. My product is AVIS and takes advantage of that precious time safes buy us. Check out my videos on setting up the sensors and order AViS today from my website to secure your safe.
This is a good video. The bolt work on a safe is always a really telling feature IMO. There is a reason so many gun safes don't show their bolt work. Companies often market the number of locking bolts as well as the thickness of the locking bolts, neither of which are nearly as important as the bolt work itself. Another telling thing is when rapping on the door and the side walls with your knuckles. If there is almost no sound made and it physically hurts your knuckles a bit with absolutely zero give, you're tapping on a pretty substantial plate of steel. The inferior safe shown here is not necessarily a bad product--it's fine for use as a locking container, but it's not a security safe. That said, a lot of gun safe companies promote their products like they are high-security safes, when in reality they are simply locking boxes with really good marketing.
Great Video, thanks. I've seen a few burglars who actually just take the whole damn safe with them, so if budget or space don't allow the behemoth, it's still a good idea to hard bolt the safe to the floor. We have a cement slab foundation, and for a few bucks I rented a hammer-drill and installed several 5/8 anchor bolts. No safe is 100% burglar proof, but the lazy bastards tend to go after the low hanging fruit, so every little bit helps.
You know I've been thinking that same thing. Whenever they show someone breaking into these safes, with cutters or torches, it requires time, lots of time. If you have a good alarm system, that causes them a lot anxiety and what seemed easy is no longer, since they have to rush to get out of there. I know I don't have $4,000 to spend on safe so I have to get what I can and have an alarm system installed.
@@HasanWarrior A good alarm system, as well as, keeping it behind a heavy duty locked closet of which the door opens outward, and not to mentioned, bolting down the safe. IMO, no safe is really safe unless you protect it.
My safe has vault door sensors connected to it. When it opens and closes I get a text message and email on the door status regardless of whether my alarm is set or not. I have never seen anyone do this, and anytime I show it to someone, they all say the same thing. The alarm doesn't "protect" your home of safe, it just keeps you from getting cleaned out while giving you a live status of whats going on. To get to my safe, you first have to get through other doors that are also monitored. Its just layering the levels of security. Ultimately, with the 16 exterior cameras, alarm, the great dane, and the fact I often open carry on the property my primary goal is to just make it really annoying and inconvenient for someone to break in, other than a smash and grab I guess. All that to say, I highly recommend connecting your safes to your alarm.
greatest part of this video is you slapping some chin-ups like a fucking boss. Good for you old man. Good for you very informational video as well. thank you
Two words for your "Secure Safes": Angle Grinder.....If it ain't UL rated for Tools they are all the same and a $30 battery powered Harbor Freight cutoff wheel will slice it like butter in second.
it's great if you can afford 5-10k for a safe... I'd like to see a video doing safe modifications that you can add over time. I understand it would be massive work. but first would be beefing up the lock pin lip.. build it up... then door layer, walls... idk
LMFAO Yeah because the common burglar is carrying a digging bar or a tanker bar. Now let's get real people. The common burglary is a smash amd grab in and out.
I was very interested to look up and see that liberty is the maker on the right. As you said they are great for the price and many safes are. Not everyone needs or can afford 3k or more in a safe. Makes me feel a little better about my cheap safe but I'm ready to look further into it and how it's made after watching this video.
The best safe I can think of is hidden in a wall. My grandparents had the old wood panel walls in the living room. I was over there for years when I was growing up and never knew it was even there. Then when grandad passed away, my dad went to get the guns out and that’s when I learned about the little hidden room with a safe built in it completely enclosed. They did it perfect. They let no one know it was there, it was very well hidden so even if someone broke in, they wouldn’t even see the safe. It was a fire resistant safe so if the house caught on fire, it may not burn it’s contents. A rocking chair was always in front of that hidden door to even make it less obvious. I’m not saying it’s was 100% safe from all thrives, but unless they knew exactly what to look for or somehow knew it was there, they weren’t going to find it.
Once I had to photo document a house for a landlord while the couple that was renting it as moving out. The male tenant asked if I needed to take pictures of the cellar. It was hidden behind a bookcase and would've made a great safe room/gun storage/wine cellar. Pretty cool.
Wish I could agree with you, but I can't. The best safe is the one that is known only to one, the owner. This is clearly demonstrated throughout history Where is the Ark of the Covenant? Who killed Kennedy? Where's the Holy Grail? Where's MH-370? What's the true origin of the vyris? What was the real reason for a war? You could bury a cardboard box of diamonds in a hole in your backyard and leave it for a million years and no one would ever find it - especially if no one's ever looking for it.
Fantastic information to have as a buyer, but also really impressed by the presentation. It’s really cool to see genuine interest in anything these days.
These days, crooks come armed with a cordless grinder and go in through the sides. So sidewall thickness is now a very important consideration. Doors were more important before the lithium ion battery came to power tools.
Isn't putting the door hinges on the outside a major design flaw, I've seen models with double hinges that allow for the door to open and clear the frame.
***** You are absolutely right! The only major difference is that the external hinge gives you 180 degree swing and internal hinge gives you only 90 degree swing.
The Safe Keeper Seriously ! The system that I was talking about gives you 270 degrees movement on the door. Its an *old* system used on big safes so you can fold the door on the side of the safe and when you close the door the hinges are *inside*. Some time when you don't know what people are talking about you should just stay silent !
Ryan M . The safe was owned by one of our customers that purchased it at Lowes, was burglarized, came in to our store to purchased a real safe and let us keep the one you see in the video for display.
Jeff Guerry Buy a used security safe such as a plate safe. It will not have the fancy VTEC stickers that gun safes have, but it will actually keep someone out.
It also depends on your personal situation, finances, where you live, etc. I am fortunate enough to live in an area where there is very little serious burglary. We have a few cases of local meth heads stealing power tools and such and the occasional actual B & E type burglary. Very rare though. I would like to have a thick plate steel safe with 3/8" torch resistant walls and all the fancy extras just because they are so freaking cool but I just can't justify spending thousands on a safe in my area. If I lived where crime was more prevalent or had super rare / exotic / expensive firearms then it would be different. Bottom line, unless you are rich you don't need to spend $5,000 on a safe when you only have the occasional smash and grab type burglary in your area.
Thank you so much for taking the time and making this video for all of us. This is exactly what I was looking for in terms of a good quality safe. You just got a subscriber!
U just need 2 axe heads and a sledgehammer and pound the axe heads into the door grove n they pop right open in under 2min no problem, i know from experience,
Theft. If your gunsafe is hit it's because the thieves have been in your home. It's either a relative, friends or neighbors. Most home break ins are random and the thieves don't walk around with battery operated grinders with cutting blades. The more professionals stalk your home and know when you are going to be gone. Generally they have already figured it all out. Some bring in a moving van and clean out your whole house. So if you are taking a trip a good way thieves know is by dog sitters and such. Even informing a lock smith is not a good idea. A coworker turned around because he forgot something and the thieves were already in his home. So your gunsafe is safe from thieves as long they do not know of its existence.
You get what you pay for. Making a decision on a safe you should remember you're going to be storing all your valuables inside it. A good investment in a safe protects everything inside. I know it sucks having to spend a fortune to protect your stuff but that's the world we live in. Don't trust several thousand dollars worth of stuff to a cheap $500 safe.
It's a good point but not really the most important point about having a gun safe, you must also remember that some safes are designed to protect gun access to other people in your house, specially kids, i think every gun owner that's also a parent has the responsability to get a safe for his gun preferably one of those easy access with biometric fingerprint recognition so you can actually get it out of there fast in case you need it. I understand the need to get guns to protect your family, but you must also never forget that you need to protect your children from your own guns. Specially if they are young or tend to get in trouble.... Don't be the one to be responsible for them doing something stupid.
I just got one of the last Summit Rainier 6430's from The Safe Keeper and I couldn't be happier with it. Full 7 gauge body, relocker, beefy mechanism, S&G lock, with a recessed 7/16 inch solid steel plate door. A really good safe isn't cheap. Think about this, you're putting all of your guns, money, jewelry, important documents and whatever other valuables into one steel box, make it a good one and bolt it down.
Great video. One I thing I notice with the cheaper safes is they often show an impressively "thick" door but never show the inner construction and how it is basically just thin metals welded and shaped to give the illusion of being solid. Very informative and quickly demonstrates the differences. Thanks for making it.
Mike Hunter Buy more guns and have more IN IT than it costs. Tell the ball and chain it makes economic sense! Buy an AR-15 and an AK, it makes smoke come out of gun banner's ears which is fun.
You also need to pay attention to the other faces of the safe, including the back, top, and bottom. Obviously the door, bolts, and lock are important and are designed to be the strongest parts of the safe. But you need to know that the back, bottom, top, and sides of the safe are able to withstand as much torture as the front. Also, it is good practice to have the safe bolted down to the floor or ground. Even if it weighs 800 pounds, if it's not secured to something, someone with the right equipment can pick it up or knock it over.
Micah Nightwolf Yes, I am always amazed that this happens all the time. Very often criminals will lift the safe (don't know how, they probably have equipment), transport them to their location and then crack the safe at their own leisure.
Not just that, but if you're cracking a cheaper safe and you can push it over or knock it down, you can get in easier through the bottom or the back than you can through the door. I saw a video of a supposedly high security safe that was giving the demonstration "thieves" a hard time going in through the door. Once they got it on its back, however, they broke it open in two minutes.
I know a fellow who had his gun safe broken into. It was an American Security Safe that was bolted to the floor. They broke into it by pulling the safe down from the top. As they pulled the safe over, the welds that attached the floor of the safe to the walls of the safe popped apart. The safe walls separated from the floor of the safe which was still bolted to the floor. They stole all of the guns.
@@booya6437 what he's trying to say is American Security is a bile of dog and bull shit on top of each other till you get the height and with on the size of the safe
I think one mistake people make is they put the safe somewhere that makes prying the door easier. Place the safe against a wall so the bad guy can't get any leverage on a pry bar and bolt the safe to the floor. If at all possible hide the safe. If they can't find it they can't try to break in.
@@plumbersasacracker7906 Do you want a safe that actually can keep a person out? If so, class B is what you may want to consider as the minimum, which is loosely defined as a safe with a half inch of steel on the door, and a quarter inch on the body. This will keep someone out with hand tools for an extended period, and some class B safes will provide a limited (emphasis on limited) amount of protection from attack with powered tools. Don't hesitate to buy used...quality safes last multiple generations and you can often get a lot more for the money this way. Brown Safe's HD may be worth pricing out as well as it is a lot of safe for the money.
cool, so I'll get a cabinet and put it in a closet, stick a canary monitoring system in the room the closet is located. Activity is detected, I'll get a notification on my phone (never without it), sound a high decibel alarm, while it's being recorded in real time and hit the 911 notification, all within the span of a minute, and before anyone makes it to the closet.
Well you're absolutely right about the design of the safe makes a big difference. I am looking at a half inch door frame 4, step system, 1-inch ar500, quarter-inch ar500, 8 inches of concrete and quarter-inch ar500
Door construction doesn't count for shit these days a $10 angle grinder and 5" cutoff wheel and you have the entire side off of that safe in under 20 minutes so if your at the movies or dinner or heaven forbid actually out of town that safe will not protect your guns. this guy is on purposely avoiding what is a known weakness in the very design of the safe.
Puffalupagus360 first of all u need to be one professional ass burglar to be able to predict who has what safe and bring his whole toolshed with him. most burglars have hammers, crowbars, etc. unless u live in a mansion I think ur gonna be safe from Joe schmoe trying to get a quick buck. sure he can come back once he sees the safe but then homeowner would hopefully get some kind of security system or something
***** no you don't need to be a top tier burglar to know that the house you cased a week ago has quite a few guns in it which you were easily able to determine by the gun rack in the back window of the truck in the driveway the camo on his seat covers the open carry weapon you saw him with when he was walking around the block with his dog and put together in your head to go to harbor freight 3 blocks away and buy a $8 angle grinder and a $5 pack of metal cutting discs and hit his house friday night right after you watch him take his wife/girlfriend out to dinner.
Good examples of what to look for. Gotta purchase the most you can afford! Surprised no one picked up on his three points, at 2:30, while holding up four fingers. Great vid!
Excellent video. I am glad I was able to purchase my 64 gun safe in 1992. I opted out of delivery and installation and remember popping a blood vessel in my right bicep going up the three steps on the back porch while using a dolly and three younger guys. I think it was to weight 890 pounds empty. Ask about the expanding door foam incase or a fire. My warranty book shows the part number for paint to door seals, then accessories. Thanks!
So this video does have good information in it, but these two safes shouldn't even be compared together. On the left is a Summit Denali 4064. This is a $5,200 safe, weighing 1500-1700 lbs, 90 minute fire rating, 20 bolts, and the Denali is the top series from Summit. The safe on the right is a Liberty Fatboy Jr. This is a $1,400 safe, weighing 760 lbs, 60 minute fire rating, 12 bolts, and is the low-mid level offering from Liberty. Yes, the Denali is definitely a much nicer, high-end safe, but not a fair comparison. The Liberty Presidential 50 would be a better comparison with the Denali, as it costs around $5,000. Weighs 1700 lbs, 2.5 hour fire rating, 26 1.5" bolts, overall thicker door (may not be solid), etc. I'm not saying Liberty Presidential is better than the Summit Denali, but you have to decide what kind of protection you need, that fits in your budget. If money is no object, go buy a Sturdy Safe. For $6,500 you can get a huge, solid safe that no one can get into without cutting tools (model 6028-6 with upgraded package and fire lining -- remove fire lining and save $,1000).
+Derek Horn Thanks for the info. I knew the one on the right was a Liberty as a good part of the logo was still showing. I did not know the make of the one on the left. You are so right about this being an unfair comparison. Too bad they didn't use a higher end Liberty, as that would have been great to see (I'm about to buy a Liberty safe).
He wasn't doing the video as a comparison of the safes. He said that in the beginning. He was doing it to demonstrate that you should know what you are purchasing. He gave info on questions people can ask to make sure they aren't buying junk. I was wondering what the safe on the left was though so thank you for that information.
>Derek Horn.. He is not comparing the safes as much as giving examples of a well made safe and a not well made safe. His purpose would not be served as well by having two safes of similar quality.
When I was looking for a safe, I was going to go with something in the neighborhood of $500. Then I did some research and quickly learned how vulnerable they were to attacks, as well as poor build quality, and very little fire protection. Instead of buying something that I will most likely regret, I saved up for a couple more months and bought a safe that I consider adequate and should last me a lifetime. Now, the $500 safes have their place. But the way I look at it, I'm going to be storing things that are priceless to me, and I would kick myself if they ever went missing. If your valuables can be replaced with money from your insurance, get whatever you want. But if you're storing photos, important documents, family heirlooms, and digital backups, save up and get a quality safe. BTW, storing your documents and papers in a small fire resistant safe box inside your big safe is a good idea. Gives it an extra layer of protection against fires.
I’m at the age now where I ask my father for his advice on almost everything. I asked him awhile ago about a Sports Afield safe I saw on sale. He said “well...it’ll keep honest people honest” I now truly understand what he meant
spot on, liberty Lincoln on the right for sure, cant tell the left one, it could be liberty high dollar series or reed custom. high dollar for sure tho!
what people dont understand is a safe is "security theater" where money = time spent to access the inside. You are only fooling yourself thinking it cant be opened. So if you only have $500 - $1000 on a safe, buy a cheap safe and spend money concealing it from view or making it harder to access. A $1500 safe can be opened just as fast as a $300 safe. So buy the $300 safe and spend $400 on HIDING it and making it harder to access. I bought a $250 metal gun cabinet and $250 worth of 3/4 thick AR500 steel plating and hired a guy for $100 to weld / bolt the plates to the cabinet. The door gap is now paper thin. the cabinet is now uncased in AR500 steel. I then bolted the cabinet into the back of a deep hallway closet. Went to Home Depot and spent $50 on 2x4s, wall board, concealed hinges and paint. So now a theft has to first find the hidden safe, destroy the houses walls and wall studs and floor joist to get the safe into an area big enough to work on it, then figure out a way to cut AR500 steel that is 3/4 thick. All this would take about the same time to access a $3500 safe. If I only spent $1000 and bolted the 500 pound safe to the basement floor, a theft would have it open in under 3 minutes by just using an angle grinder or skill saw and cutting the top off.
love your video keep up the good work and what's funny about the whole thing I was just in the store the other day looking at safe now this gives me a guideline
All a moot point. A $30 angle grinder and a few carbide wheels will cut through any safe in minutes. The only thing a safe will protect you from is your friend's kids' sticky fingers when they come visit and the typical smash and grab thief, and any safe is good enough for that. If you want to truly protect your valuables, get a safety deposit box. Don't keep them at home.
This video is a prime example of quality over quantity. No fancy transitions, filler videos to over emphasize, no extra commentary. Transparent, informational and straight to the point.
A good example of old fashion and I wish more people in my generation did this.
well said.
I'm most impressed that this guy just did two pull ups on a whim. I need to get in shape
He trained for a year and a half for this role. Check out the Men’s Health Safe Keeper work out.
Damn it you beat me to the punch.
Took the words out of my mouth
Foreals forget the safe that guys a beast very impressive
Gpa definitely lifts bro
Finally a video that is totally unbiased. Thank you for making this and actually taking the time to explain the differences between the two. Really a well done video I hope you make some more.
Thank you! we will have more videos soon!
Agreed this was an amazing video, I was looking at buying a safe that looks VERY similar to the safe on the right but after this video I'll be doing much more investigating into the safe before purchasing thank you for this video!
Lol “unbiased”, he’s selling his safes.
@@reaperundergroundexplorati2232 He never once says anything about his own safes nor if it was his brand of safe that held up to the tests
@@Alexwaltman850 He doesn't have to say it, it's obvious. That safe on the left has the sliding rifle rack that is exclusive to his safe.
ok but do you give master codes to the FBI without a warrant? Why do you have master codes at all?!!?!?!
this man makes me want to buy what ever he is selling
Not gonna lie, those chinups were impressive!
Good video!
Kyle Kaase lmbo 😂
You did a fantastic job of explaining the difference of a cheap safe and a good safe, well done, thumbs up.
Thank you!
Joseph M The only thing he didn't mention is the difference in price. $1000-$1500 for the "cheap" safe vs $3000-$4000 for the good safe.
No safe is theft proof. The real question that needs to be answered is WHAT are you protecting... and FROM what?
If you don't have irreplaceable values and you are simply wanting to protect yourself from the kids getting to your guns, you don't need a top of line safe. After all, homeowners insurance will cover losses of your REPLACEABLE collection.
The Safe Keeper Insurance comp. will only cover a specific amount on certain items such as cash, firearms, jewelry and any type of collections, such as stamps, coins, manuscripts ect....
You must declare such items and and have a addendum added to your policy. Remember Insurance comp. will not pay if they can weasel out of doing so..
+Jeremiah Puckett He did actually mention the difference in price towards the end of the video. He went out of his way to say that it was not his intention to pick on the cheaper safe, that it was a good safe for its price point.
I wouldn't want to tell the insurance company what or how much I have so that is not an option for me.
Here it is 2021 and this video is still as pertinent as it was in 2014. Excellent video, and thank you.
You just saved me from purchasing an "El Cheapo" safe. Seriously, I still have the tab open to purchase it. *_Thank you._*
both of them can be opened with grinder in about 5-10 min. just get your self el cheapo for insurance purposes. take look at other videos on youtube how they open this "more safe" safe and more expensive in minutes... :)
Zo Mi+ nothing is foolproof that is why you have multiple layers of security. i have a security system in my house that will make the cops respond Within 5 minutes. try cutting phone line n.f.g. mine dails out thought wireless. good luck cutting into my vault pro before the cops get you or I get home. nothing is foolproof. That's why you have to have multiple layers
home owners insurance does not cover guns or jewelry
I'm that guy you love to hate
I like your strategy. FYI, NRA base level insurance will cover $5,000 for your guns. That alone is worth the $25 a year.
Legion Etrangere I know what you're saying with the NRA Insurance because I am a lifetime member. But the only problem is can they replace my father's shotguns and handguns. That is why I have multiple layers of security. I can replace any one of the ones I've purchased but I can't replace my dad's. And I'm sure you probably feel the same way
I'm that guy you love to hate
I hear you man, absolutely. I don't have any heirlooms like that myself. My dad is still alive and well, but I'll want at least a few of his guns when he's gone.
Damn I know people in they're 20's who can't even do a pull up...this old man did 2 lol
They weren't real ones but I'm still impressed
also their*
He just did more pull ups than most of you watching this can do
2 is nothing lmao what are you trying to say?
He didn't even do one!
Was I the only one waiting to see him fall backwards into the safe and the door shut on him
Truth
sam farley Secure your safe with electronic sensors! AVIS is WiFi for your safe. Immediately texts you if the safe is attacked. My product is AVIS and takes advantage of that precious time safes buy us. Check out my videos on setting up the sensors and order AViS today from my website to secure your safe.
This is a good video. The bolt work on a safe is always a really telling feature IMO. There is a reason so many gun safes don't show their bolt work. Companies often market the number of locking bolts as well as the thickness of the locking bolts, neither of which are nearly as important as the bolt work itself. Another telling thing is when rapping on the door and the side walls with your knuckles. If there is almost no sound made and it physically hurts your knuckles a bit with absolutely zero give, you're tapping on a pretty substantial plate of steel. The inferior safe shown here is not necessarily a bad product--it's fine for use as a locking container, but it's not a security safe. That said, a lot of gun safe companies promote their products like they are high-security safes, when in reality they are simply locking boxes with really good marketing.
Great Video, thanks. I've seen a few burglars who actually just take the whole damn safe with them, so if budget or space don't allow the behemoth, it's still a good idea to hard bolt the safe to the floor. We have a cement slab foundation, and for a few bucks I rented a hammer-drill and installed several 5/8 anchor bolts. No safe is 100% burglar proof, but the lazy bastards tend to go after the low hanging fruit, so every little bit helps.
nice job, remember a good alarm system reduces the time anyone can work to get into your safe. That should be part of your strategy.
You know I've been thinking that same thing. Whenever they show someone breaking into these safes, with cutters or torches, it requires time, lots of time. If you have a good alarm system, that causes them a lot anxiety and what seemed easy is no longer, since they have to rush to get out of there. I know I don't have $4,000 to spend on safe so I have to get what I can and have an alarm system installed.
@@HasanWarrior A good alarm system, as well as, keeping it behind a heavy duty locked closet of which the door opens outward, and not to mentioned, bolting down the safe. IMO, no safe is really safe unless you protect it.
My safe has vault door sensors connected to it. When it opens and closes I get a text message and email on the door status regardless of whether my alarm is set or not. I have never seen anyone do this, and anytime I show it to someone, they all say the same thing. The alarm doesn't "protect" your home of safe, it just keeps you from getting cleaned out while giving you a live status of whats going on. To get to my safe, you first have to get through other doors that are also monitored. Its just layering the levels of security. Ultimately, with the 16 exterior cameras, alarm, the great dane, and the fact I often open carry on the property my primary goal is to just make it really annoying and inconvenient for someone to break in, other than a smash and grab I guess. All that to say, I highly recommend connecting your safes to your alarm.
A 120lb BullMastiff or a 100lb PitBull do great for keeping them busy. Hard to break into it, and focus while being chased by a beast!
@@VaqueroHuero Very true but nothing a 22 caliber pistol can't put down in five seconds. Protect your dogs with an alarm that may scare them off.
greatest part of this video is you slapping some chin-ups like a fucking boss. Good for you old man. Good for you
very informational video as well. thank you
I hope I will be able to do chin ups at his age.
Nice video thank u for the education
Two words for your "Secure Safes": Angle Grinder.....If it ain't UL rated for Tools they are all the same and a $30 battery powered Harbor Freight cutoff wheel will slice it like butter in second.
Did Chuck Norris just school me in bank safe chin-ups?
it's great if you can afford 5-10k for a safe... I'd like to see a video doing safe modifications that you can add over time. I understand it would be massive work. but first would be beefing up the lock pin lip.. build it up... then door layer, walls...
idk
... another option is to buy a cheap safe ... then conceal your goods under a tile ...
Yep decoy safe is a good idea. Hide your real safe.
Carl Tom
@@jason127x99 Don't forget to leave a surprise for when they get the decoy open!
LMFAO Yeah because the common burglar is carrying a digging bar or a tanker bar. Now let's get real people. The common burglary is a smash amd grab in and out.
I was very interested to look up and see that liberty is the maker on the right. As you said they are great for the price and many safes are. Not everyone needs or can afford 3k or more in a safe. Makes me feel a little better about my cheap safe but I'm ready to look further into it and how it's made after watching this video.
It's March 2020 but I feel the man needs to be recognized again for doing chin ups.
I bought a safe from The Safe Keeper several years ago. It is a champ! Honest and very nice people, good value. Thank you for the video. :-)
Thank you Melody Kip Glad you're enjoying your gun safe! :)
simple put a electric fence system on the safe, try to touch and open the safe for 5 seconds with 10,000 volts hitting you. job done
The best safe I can think of is hidden in a wall. My grandparents had the old wood panel walls in the living room. I was over there for years when I was growing up and never knew it was even there. Then when grandad passed away, my dad went to get the guns out and that’s when I learned about the little hidden room with a safe built in it completely enclosed.
They did it perfect. They let no one know it was there, it was very well hidden so even if someone broke in, they wouldn’t even see the safe. It was a fire resistant safe so if the house caught on fire, it may not burn it’s contents. A rocking chair was always in front of that hidden door to even make it less obvious.
I’m not saying it’s was 100% safe from all thrives, but unless they knew exactly what to look for or somehow knew it was there, they weren’t going to find it.
Once I had to photo document a house for a landlord while the couple that was renting it as moving out. The male tenant asked if I needed to take pictures of the cellar. It was hidden behind a bookcase and would've made a great safe room/gun storage/wine cellar. Pretty cool.
I love extra doors and passageways. My bedroom has an escape door out the back.
Wish I could agree with you, but I can't. The best safe is the one that is known only to one, the owner. This is clearly demonstrated throughout history Where is the Ark of the Covenant? Who killed Kennedy? Where's the Holy Grail? Where's MH-370? What's the true origin of the vyris? What was the real reason for a war? You could bury a cardboard box of diamonds in a hole in your backyard and leave it for a million years and no one would ever find it - especially if no one's ever looking for it.
Fantastic information to have as a buyer, but also really impressed by the presentation. It’s really cool to see genuine interest in anything these days.
These days, crooks come armed with a cordless grinder and go in through the sides. So sidewall thickness is now a very important consideration. Doors were more important before the lithium ion battery came to power tools.
There's not a gun safe out there that cant be opened.
just how much time it takes to get it open
Good Luck opening a Graffunder, with a 1.5 inch thick solid steel door.
Not true. They can't open a safe they can't find...or even know to look for.
Isn't putting the door hinges on the outside a major design flaw, I've seen models with double hinges that allow for the door to open and clear the frame.
Good video.
***** You are absolutely right! The only major difference is that the external hinge gives you 180 degree swing and internal hinge gives you only 90 degree swing.
The Safe Keeper Seriously ! The system that I was talking about gives you 270 degrees movement on the door. Its an *old* system used on big safes so you can fold the door on the side of the safe and when you close the door the hinges are *inside*. Some time when you don't know what people are talking about you should just stay silent !
Richard Hinds listen at 0:45 - 1:00 minute.. one of his customers. He sold a safe that was shit.... This is worse than a joke...
Ryan M . The safe was owned by one of our customers that purchased it at Lowes, was burglarized, came in to our store to purchased a real safe and let us keep the one you see in the video for display.
Was gonna purchase a safe this weekend so I'm so glad I watched your video. Now I may have to sell some guns to afford the nicer safe.
Glad you made this decision. Thanks
Jeff Guerry Buy a used security safe such as a plate safe. It will not have the fancy VTEC stickers that gun safes have, but it will actually keep someone out.
I have a gun safe
It also depends on your personal situation, finances, where you live, etc. I am fortunate enough to live in an area where there is very little serious burglary. We have a few cases of local meth heads stealing power tools and such and the occasional actual B & E type burglary. Very rare though. I would like to have a thick plate steel safe with 3/8" torch resistant walls and all the fancy extras just because they are so freaking cool but I just can't justify spending thousands on a safe in my area. If I lived where crime was more prevalent or had super rare / exotic / expensive firearms then it would be different. Bottom line, unless you are rich you don't need to spend $5,000 on a safe when you only have the occasional smash and grab type burglary in your area.
Thank you so much for taking the time and making this video for all of us. This is exactly what I was looking for in terms of a good quality safe. You just got a subscriber!
U just need 2 axe heads and a sledgehammer and pound the axe heads into the door grove n they pop right open in under 2min no problem, i know from experience,
Theft. If your gunsafe is hit it's because the thieves have been in your home. It's either a relative, friends or neighbors. Most home break ins are random and the thieves don't walk around with battery operated grinders with cutting blades. The more professionals stalk your home and know when you are going to be gone. Generally they have already figured it all out. Some bring in a moving van and clean out your whole house. So if you are taking a trip a good way thieves know is by dog sitters and such. Even informing a lock smith is not a good idea. A coworker turned around because he forgot something and the thieves were already in his home. So your gunsafe is safe from thieves as long they do not know of its existence.
You get what you pay for. Making a decision on a safe you should remember you're going to be storing all your valuables inside it. A good investment in a safe protects everything inside. I know it sucks having to spend a fortune to protect your stuff but that's the world we live in. Don't trust several thousand dollars worth of stuff to a cheap $500 safe.
It's a good point but not really the most important point about having a gun safe, you must also remember that some safes are designed to protect gun access to other people in your house, specially kids, i think every gun owner that's also a parent has the responsability to get a safe for his gun preferably one of those easy access with biometric fingerprint recognition so you can actually get it out of there fast in case you need it. I understand the need to get guns to protect your family, but you must also never forget that you need to protect your children from your own guns. Specially if they are young or tend to get in trouble.... Don't be the one to be responsible for them doing something stupid.
Agreed.
I just got one of the last Summit Rainier 6430's from The Safe Keeper and I couldn't be happier with it. Full 7 gauge body, relocker, beefy mechanism, S&G lock, with a recessed 7/16 inch solid steel plate door. A really good safe isn't cheap. Think about this, you're putting all of your guns, money, jewelry, important documents and whatever other valuables into one steel box, make it a good one and bolt it down.
Is there no longer a summit safe company?
@@michaelhils1083 Not anymore.
That's a Chinese fat boy jr. Not the real deal. Shame they even put this in the video. Show a real fat boy jr
It’s faster to just go through the side with a 10” cut off wheel. 7 minutes TOP
Great video. One I thing I notice with the cheaper safes is they often show an impressively "thick" door but never show the inner construction and how it is basically just thin metals welded and shaped to give the illusion of being solid. Very informative and quickly demonstrates the differences. Thanks for making it.
A perfect video. The demonstrations were fantastic and the information was presented incredibly well. Thank you.
I paid 210.00 for my Ruger 10/22, 719.00 for my 257 Weatherby, I paid 622.00 for my Savage 300 win mag. I paid 5200.00 to protect them with my safe.
Mike Hunter Buy more guns and have more IN IT than it costs. Tell the ball and chain it makes economic sense! Buy an AR-15 and an AK, it makes smoke come out of gun banner's ears which is fun.
Douglas Cowdrick I have since added an HS,Precision 260 rem, and a churchill monarch over under 12 guage.
Mike Hunter be your own bank, stack silver and gold
@@nomadicfenceman509 stack brass
@@squishy_Rio And lead.
I'm looking for a good quality safe. what make and model was the safe on the left.
I compared the visible part of the left safe's logo to logos from their web site. It's a Summit Safe. I don't know the model.
Check out Sturdy Safe
I'm sure the safe on right is made by champion
Sturdy, Amsec, Fort Knox, and Graffunder are some of the best consumer safes on the market.
@@1FAST91SONOMA Bought a Sturdy Safe years ago. Love it. It's a solid beast.
You also need to pay attention to the other faces of the safe, including the back, top, and bottom. Obviously the door, bolts, and lock are important and are designed to be the strongest parts of the safe. But you need to know that the back, bottom, top, and sides of the safe are able to withstand as much torture as the front.
Also, it is good practice to have the safe bolted down to the floor or ground. Even if it weighs 800 pounds, if it's not secured to something, someone with the right equipment can pick it up or knock it over.
Micah Nightwolf Yes, I am always amazed that this happens all the time. Very often criminals will lift the safe (don't know how, they probably have equipment), transport them to their location and then crack the safe at their own leisure.
Not just that, but if you're cracking a cheaper safe and you can push it over or knock it down, you can get in easier through the bottom or the back than you can through the door. I saw a video of a supposedly high security safe that was giving the demonstration "thieves" a hard time going in through the door. Once they got it on its back, however, they broke it open in two minutes.
One of the best educational videos on how to shop based on safe door thickness, gap, and bolt rigidity. Summit Safes are excellent, albeit expensive.
couldn't ask for a better video. thank you
I agree that you get what you pay for, but your comparing a $10k safe to a $2k safe...
You are fit man of age. Props to you.
This video really illustrates you get what you pay for.
Screw the door, you can cut a man sized hole through the side of either of those safes in 15 minutes with an angle grinder.
15 minutes police would already be there with a home security system
you have to have layers of security
A good Grinder will not care what type of steel your safe has. everybody talks about door. what about the sides of the safe?
Neither one of these safes can with stand a cutoff wheel on a grinder.
A small plasma cutter will cut half inch steel as fast as you can move the electrode.
thats what video cameras,smart phone,& a Glock is for!
I got a Winchester pony 19 thanks for making me regret it lol but then again spending more than $1000 on a safe was out of the question.
there are 3 styles of door construction... holds up 4 fingers lol 2:32
I'm surprised it took so long for someone to finally notice lol
Macho, give the guy a break he made a great video. If you made a video about picking your nose you'd probably screw it up to.
K S lol .
Thanks for the info. I walked away with you showing me the difference between a safe and a vault. I prefer the vault lol Thanks again
I know a fellow who had his gun safe broken into.
It was an American Security Safe that was bolted to the floor. They broke into it by pulling the safe down from the top. As they pulled the safe over, the welds that attached the floor of the safe to the walls of the safe popped apart. The safe walls separated from the floor of the safe which was still bolted to the floor. They stole all of the guns.
Was it bolted down in a garage?
@@booya6437 : No. It was bolted to a concrete floor in a business office.
@@18661873 Interesting, so I’m guessing that pulled it down by hand? Not a very strong safe if so
@@booya6437 what he's trying to say is American Security is a bile of dog and bull shit on top of each other till you get the height and with on the size of the safe
@@GODWITHUS0712 What brand would you recommend? Genuinely curious.
John Locke?!?!?!
Oh wait. Nvm.
I was impressed with the chinups!
I think one mistake people make is they put the safe somewhere that makes prying the door easier.
Place the safe against a wall so the bad guy can't get any leverage on a pry bar and bolt the safe to the floor.
If at all possible hide the safe. If they can't find it they can't try to break in.
Great video. I bought a used TL-30 for $2500.00 and built my own interior. Safe weighed 4330 lb. 66x42 .
Thats a good deal. I would love to have a 30 or 15 for that matter.
the best safes have a layer of ball bearing cement in betwixt the steel plates
Very informative video
Thank you very much
That lockable cabinet on the right is just larping as a safe.
I'll take the safe on the left! Who ever manufactures the safe on the right...shame on you for selling such an inferior product.
Or just cut the side open for 20 bucks worth of tools in 5 mins.
Or store a couple of hundred pounds of gun powder in it. That way when they use the disk grinder it goes kaboom!
jason127x99 Hmmmm.....you just gave me an idea. ;-)
frank smith because it’s true and with a proper security system like yours a security cabinet would be just as adequate as any high end safe
The bolt actualy broke during the "Presintation" Please teach your video editor how to spell.
Thank you for a great information video. Helped keep me from making a big mistake buying a cheap Big Box store safe! Semper fi!
Even the safe on the left doesn't hold a candle to the Sturdy (brand) Safe.
The problem I see is Costco doesn’t have their Bighorn Safes in stock to touch & Feel !
You buy them Sight Unseen !?
NEED TO NAME NAMES !!!
Just look at the price. Liberty (safe on the right) is a good "safety container" but for a good safe youre looking at 2 grand +
It’s safe to say this guy knows what he’s talking about.
Your best security is stealth can't steal it if you can't find it!
Those of you wondering cannon safe on the right, liberty safe on the left.
Plumbers asacracker - both of which are junk!
Charles Schindler was wondering what is a good safe to get. Anything is gotta be better than the field and stream piece of junk that I have now.
Plumbers asacracker -Magnum Safe!
@@plumbersasacracker7906 Superior Safe is a good "middle of the road" safe.
@@plumbersasacracker7906 Do you want a safe that actually can keep a person out? If so, class B is what you may want to consider as the minimum, which is loosely defined as a safe with a half inch of steel on the door, and a quarter inch on the body. This will keep someone out with hand tools for an extended period, and some class B safes will provide a limited (emphasis on limited) amount of protection from attack with powered tools. Don't hesitate to buy used...quality safes last multiple generations and you can often get a lot more for the money this way. Brown Safe's HD may be worth pricing out as well as it is a lot of safe for the money.
Sturdy safes are good for the price
I just wanna know what safe that was on the left!
Liberty
No the Liberty is on the right, I believe. Liberty always have the “made in the USA” on the bottom which was covered in tape on the right one.
It's a Summit Rainier.
The safe on the left is a Summit Denali, the safe on the right is a Liberty Fatboy.
Awesome vids thanks a bunch. Well done, very informative
cool, so I'll get a cabinet and put it in a closet, stick a canary monitoring system in the room the closet is located. Activity is detected, I'll get a notification on my phone (never without it), sound a high decibel alarm, while it's being recorded in real time and hit the 911 notification, all within the span of a minute, and before anyone makes it to the closet.
Oh , so in life you get what your willing to pay for 👍🇺🇸
2:34 he said three styles of door construction and put 4 fingers up
KX2003 woke.
Well you're absolutely right about the design of the safe makes a big difference. I am looking at a half inch door frame 4, step system, 1-inch ar500, quarter-inch ar500, 8 inches of concrete and quarter-inch ar500
Door construction doesn't count for shit these days a $10 angle grinder and 5" cutoff wheel and you have the entire side off of that safe in under 20 minutes so if your at the movies or dinner or heaven forbid actually out of town that safe will not protect your guns. this guy is on purposely avoiding what is a known weakness in the very design of the safe.
Wells, that is why if you REALLY want a good safe, you buy one that is TDR (Torch/Drill Resistant).
Puffalupagus360 first of all u need to be one professional ass burglar to be able to predict who has what safe and bring his whole toolshed with him. most burglars have hammers, crowbars, etc. unless u live in a mansion I think ur gonna be safe from Joe schmoe trying to get a quick buck. sure he can come back once he sees the safe but then homeowner would hopefully get some kind of security system or something
***** no you don't need to be a top tier burglar to know that the house you cased a week ago has quite a few guns in it which you were easily able to determine by the gun rack in the back window of the truck in the driveway the camo on his seat covers the open carry weapon you saw him with when he was walking around the block with his dog and put together in your head to go to harbor freight 3 blocks away and buy a $8 angle grinder and a $5 pack of metal cutting discs and hit his house friday night right after you watch him take his wife/girlfriend out to dinner.
This is the most ridiculous shit I've ever heard. Like robbers are going to break into a house in the night and turn on a grinder. Fucking lol.
A little $8 grinder in the middle of a house, while you are out of town, won't make much noise.
Walker Timothy Thompson Daniel Robinson Kimberly
Thank you for making this video. I found it very informative.
Good examples of what to look for. Gotta purchase the most you can afford! Surprised no one picked up on his three points, at 2:30, while holding up four fingers. Great vid!
$500 safes have their place...
In a hotel room.
Excellent video. I am glad I was able to purchase my 64 gun safe in 1992. I opted out of delivery and installation and remember popping a blood vessel in my right bicep going up the three steps on the back porch while using a dolly and three younger guys. I think it was to weight 890 pounds empty. Ask about the expanding door foam incase or a fire. My warranty book shows the part number for paint to door seals, then accessories. Thanks!
So this video does have good information in it, but these two safes shouldn't even be compared together.
On the left is a Summit Denali 4064. This is a $5,200 safe, weighing 1500-1700 lbs, 90 minute fire rating, 20 bolts, and the Denali is the top series from Summit.
The safe on the right is a Liberty Fatboy Jr. This is a $1,400 safe, weighing 760 lbs, 60 minute fire rating, 12 bolts, and is the low-mid level offering from Liberty.
Yes, the Denali is definitely a much nicer, high-end safe, but not a fair comparison. The Liberty Presidential 50 would be a better comparison with the Denali, as it costs around $5,000. Weighs 1700 lbs, 2.5 hour fire rating, 26 1.5" bolts, overall thicker door (may not be solid), etc.
I'm not saying Liberty Presidential is better than the Summit Denali, but you have to decide what kind of protection you need, that fits in your budget.
If money is no object, go buy a Sturdy Safe. For $6,500 you can get a huge, solid safe that no one can get into without cutting tools (model 6028-6 with upgraded package and fire lining -- remove fire lining and save $,1000).
+Derek Horn Thanks for the info. I knew the one on the right was a Liberty as a good part of the logo was still showing. I did not know the make of the one on the left. You are so right about this being an unfair comparison. Too bad they didn't use a higher end Liberty, as that would have been great to see (I'm about to buy a Liberty safe).
He wasn't doing the video as a comparison of the safes. He said that in the beginning. He was doing it to demonstrate that you should know what you are purchasing. He gave info on questions people can ask to make sure they aren't buying junk. I was wondering what the safe on the left was though so thank you for that information.
>Derek Horn.. He is not comparing the safes as much as giving examples of a well made safe and a not well made safe. His purpose would not be served as well by having two safes of similar quality.
You missed the entire point of his video.
Great video
When I was looking for a safe, I was going to go with something in the neighborhood of $500. Then I did some research and quickly learned how vulnerable they were to attacks, as well as poor build quality, and very little fire protection. Instead of buying something that I will most likely regret, I saved up for a couple more months and bought a safe that I consider adequate and should last me a lifetime. Now, the $500 safes have their place. But the way I look at it, I'm going to be storing things that are priceless to me, and I would kick myself if they ever went missing. If your valuables can be replaced with money from your insurance, get whatever you want. But if you're storing photos, important documents, family heirlooms, and digital backups, save up and get a quality safe. BTW, storing your documents and papers in a small fire resistant safe box inside your big safe is a good idea. Gives it an extra layer of protection against fires.
We are very happy that you made that decision! That was the sole purpose of the video.
This guy is a good salesman. I am shopping around for a decent safe. Thank you for this video. Subbed up for more good tips!
Great job👍🏾 I'm glad to have found and watched this video before buying my next gun safe. 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Are they safes are RSC? That needs to be discussed up from the differences.
I’m at the age now where I ask my father for his advice on almost everything. I asked him awhile ago about a Sports Afield safe I saw on sale. He said “well...it’ll keep honest people honest” I now truly understand what he meant
Gear video; I learned a lot before my purchase.
Great video. Excellent information. Clear and to the point. Thank you sir.
I agree that you did e excellent job of explaining the differences on these 2 safes. I had no idea. I will be watching all your videos. thanks so much
Whatever you buy, don't buy a LIBERTY SAFE, especially with an electronic
lock!!
I'm pretty sure the one on the left is a Reed custom, and the one on the right is a Liberty safe.
spot on, liberty Lincoln on the right for sure, cant tell the left one, it could be liberty high dollar series or reed custom. high dollar for sure tho!
Great work, good information, just starting to buy safe, now I know the inside details, if you know what I mean and you do! Thanks
what people dont understand is a safe is "security theater" where money = time spent to access the inside. You are only fooling yourself thinking it cant be opened. So if you only have $500 - $1000 on a safe, buy a cheap safe and spend money concealing it from view or making it harder to access. A $1500 safe can be opened just as fast as a $300 safe. So buy the $300 safe and spend $400 on HIDING it and making it harder to access. I bought a $250 metal gun cabinet and $250 worth of 3/4 thick AR500 steel plating and hired a guy for $100 to weld / bolt the plates to the cabinet. The door gap is now paper thin. the cabinet is now uncased in AR500 steel. I then bolted the cabinet into the back of a deep hallway closet. Went to Home Depot and spent $50 on 2x4s, wall board, concealed hinges and paint. So now a theft has to first find the hidden safe, destroy the houses walls and wall studs and floor joist to get the safe into an area big enough to work on it, then figure out a way to cut AR500 steel that is 3/4 thick. All this would take about the same time to access a $3500 safe. If I only spent $1000 and bolted the 500 pound safe to the basement floor, a theft would have it open in under 3 minutes by just using an angle grinder or skill saw and cutting the top off.
love your video keep up the good work and what's funny about the whole thing I was just in the store the other day looking at safe now this gives me a guideline
All a moot point. A $30 angle grinder and a few carbide wheels will cut through any safe in minutes. The only thing a safe will protect you from is your friend's kids' sticky fingers when they come visit and the typical smash and grab thief, and any safe is good enough for that. If you want to truly protect your valuables, get a safety deposit box. Don't keep them at home.