You can tell these guys do not handle guns on the daily or the weekly. Especially love how the guy picks up the rifle with finger in the trigger without knowing if a round was chambered. Luckily no one was hurt in the filming of this episode of the Three Stooges!!!
I'm from the UK, so wondering why you don't have a separate safe for guns and a safe for ammo. Also these guys handling of guns was scary AF. God bless America 🫣
My 2 cents. I have a similar safe to this one. I bought it for fire protection. It is strongly bolted to a concrete wall, the foundation of the fireplace and adjacent to a wall I built withe two hidden surprises that would require a lot to work around. On the last side is the furnace that would be tough to work around. When I bought it I made sure there was concrete 1/2 “ inner liner on all surfaces. As far as whether the guns in this video safe can be made service let, I feel a gunsmith can get most of them working again. The temperature in the safe never got to 460 degrees,. That is the temperature paper products ignite. Also the fact that the bag the pistol didn’t melt (polyester and nylon has a really low melting point). Finally, ammo didn’t cook off which it would at way less than 1200 degrees. The loose rounds as mentioned in some of the previous comments were correct. Probably hand-loaded with lord only know what. As far as the salvage crew, very sloppy. To properly cut the safe open you cut a shallow depth cut as you really don’t know the thickness of the metal nor the hardness make a series of shallow cuts until you break through. You aren’t in a hurry so take your time. They lucked out when they hit non-hardened steel or worse, two layer of steel separated by concrete. Regarding the extraction of the guns I cringed when they didn’t clear the guns first using their finger. Several of the guns had carbon on the chamber face that could easily hid a cartridge in the chamber. And has been pointed out, don’t lay the directly on the concrete floor. Put them on a movers quilt to keep the guns safe and pointing away from everyone ( they walked in front of the barrel at least once). Finally don’t handle the ammo like it’s normal. Powder exposed to high heat can become unstable as can the primers. Treat them like they could could cook off any minute. Put them in a steel ammo box and dispose of them. Sorry for the length of this comment. I got seriously “triggered” by their recklessness.
The best way to dispose of the ammo is to soak it in oil for a week or so. You can then try pulling the bullets to recover the brass, but only for scrap.
Many years ago I was at a locksmith shop talking with a locksmith, when a person walked in off the street with a melted glob of a Sentry safe that you can buy at Home Depot. His house had just burnt down that weekend and he wanted the locksmith to open it up to see if some important papers were ok. I watched to locksmith get it open very quickly, and I saw that his important papers were still in perfect shape. Speaks well for little fire safes. I was impressed.
What are you doing out on Lake Michigan with a full gun safe? I’d never consider locking my firearms in a gun safe while traveling between hunting spots because my vehicle doesn’t have a gun safe.
In my experience, we had a house fire that was a total loss. All the rifles/shotguns in the safe were beyond repair. The pistols in a night stand and a .410 shotgun in the closet all survived with only minimal cosmetic damage. Most of the time it's about where they are in regards to the fire and how long they were exposed.
The insulation, concrete, drywall, what ever is employed has water content. As the safe gets hot, water vapor is released. The guns and various other metals will rust in the humidity and heat whether water is introduced from outside or not.
My company, Kingsbery mfg, invented the metal gunsafe. A gunsafe is a barbecue pit for guns. When I bought the company in 2008, I played around with actually building a fire proof safe, it increased the price by 500% if you expected interior components from being destroyed. That unit in the video is sheet roll super thin steel, garbage. I can tell it had the garbage electronic key pad as well. To open that unit ALL you had to do was hit the 4 corners on top and the top would have sprung open, you can see where the heat split the mig welds already.
I've had to deal with insurance claims on firearms that were stored in safes. Learned many things along the way, like the fact that the temperature is hottest at the top of safes 90% of the time. The cheaper safes that use soft, open cell foam padding in the interior, vaporizes and turns into a gooey corrosive gas that coats stocks and metal, attacking the metal far worse than wood leaving uneven, deeply pitted areas on blued surfaces (stainless guns not as badly affected). If the guns are in the lower part of the safe, surprisingly most of the factory heat treatment & springs were found to be still in spec.. Some rifle barrels, closer to the muzzle end may become compromised (caution on the heat treated Stainless barrels - these may blow apart like a banana peel if high powered rounds are fired - if the barrel anneals in a fire - SS .22 long rifle barrels not so much of a concern). Sometimes the rubberized foam backing from interior carpeting will also create this corrosive goo, but to a lesser degree. I contacted several of the manufacturers like Fort Knox, Homak, Liberty, etc. to see if they were willing to offer custom build interiors with Nomex lining and additional temperature resistance features, but was disappointed that they were not willing to listen to me. Basically your so called fire rated safes are considered so because the mfg will use a special gasket that lines the door that in the event of a fire will swell and seal the door to some degree to help prevent water from the firefighters hose from getting in.... however, as you seen in this video, there are many weak areas that lifted in the rear of the safe and a corner that cracked which allowed the water vapor inside and mix with the corrosive gasses created by the carpet backing. Sorry for writing a book, but I thought I'd share what I thought to be important info to help others protect their valuable firearms.
@@bigjohn860 Keep in mind the water that will be used to put out the fire may partially flood the basement. Maybe keep 1 to 1.5 feet off of basement floor, on a custom made steel frame support? Humidity level will be higher in basements as things cool down. Just something to keep in mind.
@@AmmoC9M Cleaning off corrosion versus structural changes to the metal because of heat? I'd take the water any day. If any of my firearms are ever exposed to a top-to-bottom fire that totally destroys the structure, I would rather have them immersed completely in water for weeks and spend a bit of time cleaning them off than risk having them blow up in my face.
I've dealt with this issue a number of times while at Weatherby Inc. The Items in the safe don't necessarily "Burn" because of a lack of oxygen, but they do "Roast" as in like an oven. The rust is caused by the super heating which destroys the finish followed then cooling which causes condensation on the metal surfaces. Serviceability of all the firearms must be done by a qualified Gunsmith with access to at minimum a Rockwell hardness testing rig and a detailed listing of the items factory hardness's limits for it's parts. The super-heating effect will take the temper out of critical area's even though plastic and wood on the guns seems okay. Any gun should be sent to it's respective factory service center for evaluation only after contacting that centers service agent.
@@ditzydoo4378 I remember in Russia we didn't care about most of such stuff-I generally did but was usually considered a picky safety geek.. Although in Canada where I live now and in USA where I am going to move I am always considered an absolute opposite but my friends would have been considered as bold to the point of insanity..I myself had registered three rifles in Russia that were found in relic condition and repaired by me and if you would have seen any of them-you wouldn't have touched it with a 20 meter pole let alone firing them but for me it was normal!Yet why I had been called a safety geek in Russia is because I ranted at people for using a really barbaric method of cleaning the rifles they found.. And I am not making this shit up: they just made a huge campfire, tossed all their findings in there and lit them up!And I literally remember a shit load of times I interrupted them when through the exposed holes made by corrosion through the magazine of a Mosin or Mauser rifle that was about to get lit up I just saw that there were rounds inside!And then I at least with help of a knife and a hammer popped the bottom plate on them, scraped out the follower with remainings of the spring and got the rounds out of them at least! Dozens of times did it yet every single time when on such a rifle the bolt was closed but the cocking piece still frozen cocked-they always fired from the heat of the fire!That is why at least as we were "roasting" their rifles-these rifles were pointed at the safe direction when the whole thing got lit!I didn't do that and so I was considered a safety geek! Who literally had been casually hunting for over a decade with a damn repaired(actually cleaned and refurbished but heavily pitted on the outside) and registered WW2 battlefield relic sniper Mosin rifle that has a damn up to 3mm or 0.1 inch deep pittings on outside and put thousands of full charge rounds through it over the years and cleaned it just twice! Still works by the way as perfectly and as accurately as it is supposed to even after 65-70 years being buried under the ground!
Had a fire and a safe with about 10 firearms in it, house burned. The house was built about 100 years prior to the fire, made from heart pine, burned basically to the ground. Very hot fire for over an hour. I called Cannon safe, the brand I had about 48 hours after, was told to get the firearms out as soon as possible, the carbon steel firearms were very rusty but truly not damaged otherwise. I had one scope that had sucked moisture in when it cooled and a few plastic items in the top of the safe that were damaged from the heat, but glad I had the safe. Main point from me is get your firearms out as quickly as you can and clean and oil them.
The 7mm cooked off because of the kind of propellant that the manufacture used. It just happened to be more susceptible to the heat. With fire fighters in the family, I can tell you that NO safe is good protection against fire if the safe is directly at ground zero. (And sometimes the whole house/home/business can be "ground zero".
@Sid Viscous: Very true. In fact, the narrator makes a point about that, but my question is: how can a person with a gun safe help decrease the chance of water damage? You can't tell the fire department to stop putting the fire out.
@@hoosiered471 Fire department will douse a gun safe if they see one in a fire. Hi pressure water penetrates the door seals and makes your safe a sauna. When I was moonlighting at a gun shop, I asked firemen about gun safes in a fire. They say they were taught to spray them for fear of blowing up like propane tanks.
The fireproofing material has such a high moisture content when it heats up that gun safe turns into a steamer the rust isn’t from the firefighters water!!!
Two things that come to mind: 1. location of a safe is very important. Having one on the main floor of a home, especially a home with a basement seems less than ideal. Locating the safe in a corner in a basement, would be more ideal, especially with a home fire that does not completely destroy a home. 2. For valuable papers, placing them inside a fire resistant box, that is inside a fire resistant safe would offer more protection, than papers simply left in a safe.
You also have to consider that the basement might fill partially up with standing water from the fire department or rain. A homeowner may not be able to remove the safe for an extended period of time due to several factors such as, fire under investigation, Insurance company prohibits access until house surveyed, basement too dangerous for a safe mover to get in there and remove, lack of equipment to lift/move safe or you are in the hospital!
I've read many times that most gun safes only have thick doors and can be sawed through. I had no idea that it would be this easy with the right saw. That saw could cut through some armored vehicles with less than 1" steel.
Cuz if the bad guys make illegal parts for guns and say they are making their own .40 barrel then they could use ur serial number and if the bad guys gun gets ran then it will come back as u were the purchaser of that gun. It's a liability thing. Would u let a random person have ur social security number? It's just a number and everyone already has one so what would hurt someone knowing it's? Same concept but for something totally different.
Who cares? Most states don't register guns. The ATF does not. They record the serial number and FFL dealer. It is the FFL dealer's responsibility to record who they sold the gun to. The ATF will go right to the FFL if needed. And then all this is meaningless if the gun is sold privately. The best thing a serial number will tell you is if it was involved in a crime or the gun is stolen. After that, it's pure WGAF.
Great Video. Was just here after hearing a testimony of a Lahaina survivor and was wondering what happens to weapons in a gun safe after a fire. The only thing left in his safe was ash and barrels. Your video answered my questions.
Safes are designed to be inset, not free-standing. The door is robust because that is the only side meant to face attack. The sides, back, and top are usually an inner and outer layer of mild steel with what is basically sheetrock sandwiched between them. That is intended as insulation, only. The bottom of the safe is most likely a single layer of mild steel. After my 23 year career in fire suppression, I can tell you that safes generally preserve what is inside from fire well enough to allow an insurance settlement that accurately accounts for those items. Documents and cash in a safe should be in sealed plastic bags, and stored at floor level, where it is the coolest.
Wow I actually heard the guy say. A couple of these are salvageable. What some idiots! They evidently know nothing of guns! They all need a good cleaning!
Worked closely with a gunsmith for 10 years. Seen this situation quite a few times. The rust is caused by an acid given off in the smoke not from water. If at all possible you need to get your firearms to someone who can completely disassemble and thoroughly clean as soon after a fire as safely possible.
Hey everyone including camera’s operator! Thank You! Just so you know I “really enjoy your video” I received exactly what I was hoping for while watching this video! As far as the use of the saw I found it to be normal due to the stresses the light metal took during the fire! The interior of safe was also what I expected but wasn’t sure about! To me it was really sad that a person had to give up the safe for legal reasons??? I’m not sure what that could be and was hoping that would have been more explained!!! Now the best part of this video was thrown into the comments section! It has many good points if you avoid the negative and political statements! Myself “I” am very political but I didn’t come to this video to make my political viewpoints known!!! I came to see what happens to a safe if in a fire…. That’s it! Nothing more! So what “I” noticed without reading ALL of the comments…. Yet! I noticed, no fire bricks nor drywall materials??? Even cheap Gun-safes who have/state a fire ratings have something to deflect the temperature. Yet I didn’t see anything other than the white material that looked like a fiber mat which it was mentioned it could be a concrete liners! As you look through from the backside of the safe towards the door of the safe you will see heavy locking pins… which usually means it’s a better safe. But the lack of more fire proofing perhaps it’s not as good as being described (1200 degrees) fire proofing! So with this knowledge presented in this video I now know to elevate my gun safe by two and half feet off my basement floor and locate the safe near a floor drain with a debris guard on it! Also I will have to install my gun safe within a metal cabinet to give my gun safe air space from the direct heat of a fire This will act as a shield against the fire direct contact and could provide the best outcome to keep my guns safe inside of the safe because the metal cabinet will act like a shield and mostly likely take most of the damaging blows of the fire! Also not noted was to keeping flammable materials out of safe to avoid spontaneous combustion! Bullets and cardboard wrappers even your paperwork for gun permits or bills of sales should not be in there find another place for fire proofing them! Perhaps a smaller safe high off basement floor! Did anyone notice the cook off rounds??? Probably shouldn’t have loaded guns in your safe in case of a fire… although I didn’t see where and fired in any gun but it’s something to think about!
O!!!!! K!!!!!! Cool!!!!!!!!! Thx for sharing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cya around!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take care bruh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😎🤓😇🤭
As a firefighter for a number of years, the only way to save your personal papers is to have them in a different place not at home usually a safety deposit box and also keep copies of everything paper wise cause once a fire starts the smoke will ruin paper first cause of the sueitt from the under burning process. And as you know the water will get into the most tightest places. watertight stuff is a myth especially in a fire metal expands in heat and concrete cracks in heat. So as soon as the water is introduced to the equation instant leaks.
Yep, put your valuables in a "safe deposit box". That way the GOVERNMENT and/or BANK can access your valuables any time they want. This HAS HAPPENED before, and with the THIEVES in government going PAST their AUTHORITY, they will do it again!!!!
@@johnq.public5911 Thieves liars and scoundrels, Sadly I have come to realize that our government is more corrupt than the mob ever was, That our government is more racist than the Klan ever was, And since our government is responsible for murdering over 100 million unborn children, Dropping atomic bombs on civilians, Provide weapons of mass destruction to many other countries, we are far more deadly than the nazis ever could have dreamed to be. We have allowed our Republic to be governed by men with no virtues. We were warned of this by our founders. Now what
Takes a lotta heat.to melt a ceramic. Way more than can be produced naturally. Detroit and others looked into ceramic engines for a minute. Rich/San Jose
The damage you see isn't from heat, it's water. Firefighters flooded the house. Had he opened the safe right away, dried and oiled the weapons they would all be fine.
The heat of a house fire leaves the chimney brick, sure. But if a house burns down while there are logs set in the fireplace, those logs will burn as well.
@@mikenonia1763 Yes, it's water damage, but not from the firemen's hoses. The rust is from condensation upon cooling. There is a seal around the door that melts into place when heated and protects from water and smoke intrusion for about as long as the rest of the safe protects against heat. Whatever humidity control may have been in the safe was quickly destroyed by the fire's heat, as was any light coating of oil or preservative on the steel. When everything cooled, moisture in the air got through the now destroyed seal and condensed on the steel, and that's all it takes to get rust. If the safe had been flooded, all that insulation and other debris--which as we see is very dry and brittle--would have been a moldy, muddy mass.
It's all going to matter how well the safe is built, the fire rating BTU's, how well it seals during the fire, and location of the safe in your house. That safe looks very flimsy compared to the one I have.
@@thomaskolditz4293 I'll never understand why men marry women who vehemently despise something important to the man or who believe it's any of their business what he likes. And I'll never understand a man who doesn't share everything he owns. There should be plenty of room in your safe for important documents, an external HDD backup, jewelery, precious metals, photos, and other valuables. If there isn't room for those things then there isn't room for the next guns you are going to buy and you need a bigger safe.
The Chopping Block I think there is probably a lot you don’t understand-especially independent women and confident men who ignore your unsolicited opinions.
I was getting weirded out by the handling of possibly loaded weapons with unstable ammunition that might be in the barrel. Firearms safety was (literally) beaten in to us as children and I get this pavlovian response to seeing an unknown weapon being pointed in the general direction of people.
I had guns in a safe that was in a house burned in a wildfire. In other words, it was superheated for hours. The ammo cooked off, the plastics melted, and none of the guns were usuable. In fact, in the entire house the only reusable item was a cast iron skillet and even it was warped.
We had a safe in similar condition from a fire. Called the manufacturer and they recommended cutting a 10"x10" area above the dial. It took a few minutes with a battery operated angle grinder. Reached in and operated the mechanism and opened the door. Similar condition to what was in the safe here. A few guns were very rusted, a few looked in pretty good shape.
It's not just rated temperature, it's the amount of time the safe is exposed as well. If the whole house burned around it it was in there a pretty long time on full heat. I think the safe did very well. A fire that was put out before it stayed on the safe too long, the guns would be in good shape. You can't expect miracles, unless you pay for them.
Gotta love how they're opening a salvaged safe pulling out shotguns and rifles with magazines in them without checking the chambers on every gun. Checking a pistol here and a .22 there won't keep you from getting shot!
Watching the vid, they were being very careful, and my guess is most of the guns like the one rifle are siezed up and need worked on and cleaned one by one to even be operational. Looks like they'll take great care and be safe doing it.
@@Nate-cw7of Libtard my fat ass! Guns are mechanical devices and those particular mechanical devices were burned up in a fire, potentially warping/weakening the actions and/or destabilizing the chemistry of the powder charge and primer. Just jostling them around can cause a discharge with a round in the chamber, bright boy. The actions can be opened carefully while not exposing themselves to the breach and pointing them in a safe direction to make sure the chambers are clear. They muzzled the camera guy numerous times while he was filming.
*I'm curious as to how this Safe was acquired, I mean who told you this was available and where was the Safe at? If this person was in trouble I'm assuming the police may have had this or another of the owners family member. The heating up of the Safe made all seams expand letting moisture from the fire hose dowsing the fire; as for the door, the steel is thicker and if it was bolted down into an enclosure would keep it secure.*
The fact that some ammo cooked off is proof that the safe did NOT protect the contents from fire. You could beef up fire protection by building a wall of brick (refractory kind is better) around, under and over the safe.
I have no experience in this particular area, however I was reminded of the San Francisco fire. It was found that safes that were opened soon after the fire had their combustible contents catch on fire immediately upon being exposed to air. I'm posting from memory, interested folk should do their own research. As I understand the matter, the water used to put the fire out does the most damage.
I definitely always wondered how safes would hold up under intense flame and water suppression from a house fire. I mean, I don’t own any safes nor any firearms, but I did always wonder. 😉
Keep in mind that that is only how this particular safe held up. It looks to be a fairly low budget unit as well, which is easily seen by the seams splitting open and the lack of thickness of the steel. I don't think even the best safes are "fire proof", as much as being "fire rated" for a specific amount of time. You can help your safe with this simply by building an enclosure around it with sheetrock. two layers of 1/2" sheetrock will give you an extra hour (maybe a bit longer) fire rating, and hopefully give the FD enough time to get the fire under control.
Definition of a safe - it keeps thing inside safe from -what ever the safe is designed for- once the safe is breached all safety is off. A Pelican gun case is a safe to protect from water damage unless it’s not closed. That safe kept what was in it safe from fire until the fire exceeded the time/temperature rating or it fell through the floor and got split open. The guns need some TLC and are probably fine.
very nice vid. I like the way you got too it instead of beating around the bush forever like a lot of people do. Those guns could be reconditioned and be worth quite a bit. Good luck.
Would have been nice if you had pulled out a folding table and removed the firearms one at a time without flagging the cameraman and actually cleared each firearm as you safely removed them, one at a time.
I think the way these residential security containers work is they are lined inside with gypsum board, and the gypsum board retains enough moisture that gets released as steam in the safe to keep the content cooler than the fire. If you leave them in the safe after the fire, they will rust pretty quickly.
When powdered Portland cement is mixed with water it hydrates and becomes hardened Portland cement releasing heat as it hydrates. When exposed to high heat, it absorbs heat as it releases the water of hydration, as it loses its structure and returns to its powdered form. That is exactly what it is designed to do, and that is how it is able to meet the standards for a fire rating. The water released caused the guns to rust. A safe like this must be opened immediately after the fire to save any of the contents. Powdered gypsum, when mixed with water, similarly hydrates to form gypsum plaster and when heated absorbs the heat while releasing water vapor and returning to powdered gypsum.
It would seem that part of a safe's standard equipment features would be a temp sensor device that would show the max temp reached inside. It could be one time disposable type.
That's a very good cut... and those guns are all in pretty good shape considering what they have been through... all of them are absolutely able to be restored
As a pilot you must have thought cameras are able to operate in 3 dimensions ✈. Had to turn it into a radio program. My neck was killing me...😜. Was a great distraction while grounded for the day. Any chance of a follow up with the guns? ... and have you planned a video for your thoughts on keeping your guns safe? Mine are in a shelter under the front steps of my house.... all concrete and helps with tornadoes as well (Missour).
I recondition guns all the time that have been in fires. Most of the time if the gun has not been in direct contact with the fire you are good to go. House fires also produce toxic chemical smoke which is acidic and will cause rust without being exposed to water, also when the fire dept. puts water on the fire it creates steam which can travel through the air and finds its way into the cracks in the safe. The safe will have 2 ratings...1 is temperature 2 is how long it is exposed to that temperature such as 1400 degrees for 30 min. Typical house fire, if i am not mistaken burns at 1200 degrees for 30 or 45 minutes. I trick I was taught is to put 3 to 4 (whichever fit) 5 gallon jugs of water on top of the safe, as the fire buns and melts the jugs it will release water that will run down the safe cooling it enough to extend the time exposed to the fire.....hopefully I will never have to find out if it really works. Be Blessed Mark Sligar
Mark Sligar of course the buckets of water WILL NOT WORK. by the time the water gets to the point it’ll start melting the buckets the safe has already been cooking too long. You’re only adding more steam to the environment. Build a camp fire fill a styrofoam cup with water set it in the fire and you’ll see it will not melt until water evaporates or gets hot enough to melt it. I also disagree that any water got in that safe, the cardboard ammo boxes didn’t even show any signs of water damage or absorption.
When my home burnt the fire marshal said that it was way over 2000 degrees but it was an old two story farm house that some assholes burnt when I was gone
allen fisher a lot of the old house around where I live are over 100 years old and there was a lot of oak used to build them, so when they burn they burn hot and for a long time, seasoned oak makes great firewood.
Had it happen now I would use steel stud wall around the safe with the cement backer boards used around fireplaces then either sheetrock or steel siding panels. You can also get kiln insulation and firebrick for extreme temps. I did notice thick books or stacks of magazines only had outsides chared so a small pistol in a dictionary would probably work too lol
It's thermodynamics. All insulation can do is buy you some time before the outside and inside temperatures normalize. I think the best ones can withstand an hour or something at a certain temperature. My detached garage actually caught fire some years back, and that's some serious fire and temperature. There were like 5 firetrucks... lol. But a whole house going up would be too intense to really expect to salvage much.
That is a Mini-14. And yes it is a 22, .223 to be exact. It is the Precision model and that thing at the end of the barrel is an adjustable barrel dampener so you can find tune the barrel harmonics to whatever kind of ammunition you're running through it.
To my knowledge the fire rating on safes using the "cement" (I haven't a clue what that fire retardant stuff is) fire retardant looses its viability over the years. The smaller safes I opened without a key or combination in the past the "cement" is enclosed in a plastic bag. The "cement" is pliable and has condensation inside the bag. So with age the small amount liquid evaporates. The exploding ammo probably imported. They aren't very good with tolerances when seating the bullets or primers. A few errant smoke less powder and its fireworks with a kick.
The fire rating is only for a specific period of time at that temperature or below. Everything would have come out better if the live ammunition wasn’t stored in the safe because once the gun powder hit ignition temperature they went off and generated heat inside the safe which damaged the bluing which made the guns more vulnerable to rusting. The line on the bottom of the safe wasn’t were it “cooked” longer. That line existed because the debris covered that area to prevent air from getting to the metal causing oxidation (rust). Kind of wondering if they were able to bring any of those guns back to their former glory.
Ammunition is nitrate based - high temperatures release nitric acids even if the ammunition doesn’t detonate. Storing ammunition separately is highly recommended.
It would help to know make and model of the safe because not all 1200 degree "fire rated safes" are the same. This one did really well, others I have opened at house fires there was nothing left, just some charred metal. FYI, if you ask the fire department nicely, they can open your gun safe with the "jaws of life" that's what we do.
I personally don’t buy “box store” safes. Such as basspro, Walmart, tractor supply etc. I research and buy quality safes. Look at reviews, warranties, and the overall company. Fort Knox safes, rhino, American safe company, Stewart’s safes, and such are of excellent quality and most are backed by an amazing warranty. I personally have a Rhino and a Stewart’s. Both are backed by a 1 million dollar warranty on contents ( from smoke and fire damage). Both have a 2500 degree 145 minute rating. Now they are quality safes and quality costs money. When you have $100,000’s worth of stuff in each safe, you want it protected in my opinion and spending $5000-7000 on a quality safe is just an afterthought at that point in my opinion. Also all the companies I listed, will come, get your belongings out of the safe for you, and also give you a brand new safe. It’s a 1 time purchase that will last a lifetime. Have forbid that anyone has to go through a house fire. If they do though, it’s good to have a quality safe. Again my opinion. I also understand not everyone can afford a $5000+ safe.
I think the material referred too as concrete is actually vermiculite. It is supposed to release steam during the fire for so long keeping the contents of the safe at 212 f. Once it releases all its moisture though the inside temp will rise. That is why fire safes have a time rating.
Hey Creek! Thanks for the comment! Another person sent me a message that one would have had to have gotten the guns out right away and re heat tested them or they would have kept rusting. Good to hear from you!
It is a question of TIME as well as temperature. A fire safe can only delay the time it takes for contents to heat up to the point where damage occurs.
Wonder what brand those 7mag rnds are. Considering that they are the only rnds to combust. That says the flash point of powder is lower than the normal loads. Probably reloads
My rifles were in a flood and under water for two weeks. Took them, striped them, cleaned and they were fine. I had two old mosins that turned the stocks a little white but oiled them up and cleaned the barrels by shooting them. My ARs the barrels went black inside but overall they were fine. Wife's snub-nosed is alum/stainless and water had no effect on it. I still have them
All "fireproof"safe are rated for a time limit. There are exceptions but most under $1500 are only rated for an hour. 2 hour safes cost more and so on.
Have a cement basement and waterproof your containers. If no basement sealed ammo type cans buried in the dirt in your crawl space would survive well, the g-rage with its slab floors near metal rolling door, and single walls may do better than the middle of the house
I've been thru a house fire &it's a heart breaking experience. I was lucky to have my firearms survive. But it was the loss of over 15,000 rds of ammunition that really hurt me.
@douglasgault5458 Did you inform the firefighters about the ammo in the dwelling? If so, did they balk or were hesatent to go in due to a possible "cook-off"? Was the ammo in a gunsafe or open to the elements? I have around 10,000 rds. in my bedroom closet open to the elements of a house fire. Just trying to be pro-active and seeking info, if disaster stkikes. Thanks for a reply bro.
I know with this camera like hanging off of his dick or something I don't understand the perspective or what you're trying to accomplish in this filming
FYI - Just because something "survived" in a fire rated safe, does not mean that it's worth restoring. Tolerances shift, tempering shifts, these guns are not the same guns when they left the factory.
I was surprised at how easy it was to cut into the safe back at their shop. That's why my gun safe is bolted to the wall and the cement floor. This reminds me of something I heard about car thieves when I lived in NYC. The main tools they would use were a flat bed truck and a fork lift. They would cruise down the street looking for the type of car they wanted. When they found the car, they would use the fork lift to pick it up and put it on their flat bed truck. Then they could take it back to their shop and have all the time they needed to strip it down so they could sell the parts. It's too bad you can't bolt your car down to it's parking space.
How u know their not polymers, like the other guy said, cardboard boxes didn't even char. I was impressed with his saw and wanted one till I realized he was only cutting sheet metal. Rich
@@richardhill8797 Those are mil-spec forged aluminum (7075) lowers, one of which is a S&W M&P. Can't see the markings on the other 3. But yeah, that saw though.. I was pretty impressed with that thing!
@@crawlinbear1963 as soon as I saw them in a hanger and brought that circular saw, I thought to myself ,"this should be interesting " a little disappointed nobody shed some blood. A pilot only has only so much luck allotted.
I know at Liberty safes in Utah if they get one that is locked up,they saw the bottom out. But they haven't been burnt either. The reason they go through the bottom,is they just weld it back on,plus they don't paint the bottoms. Lots of people just have a cement room with a vault door. But they are pretty pricey,thank what your putting in there,if the cost is close then it may be worth it. If I remember right the cost of a cement room is around,$10,000 or more.
Looks to me like two guys not familiar with tools or guns being filmed by another guy not familiar with cameras.
At least you are looking at some clips stop complaining 🤐
hahahahahahahah. no shit eh I thought I was out of my mind.
Bravo! Well said.
Such a perfect comment
@@HERBALNATUMAN1 Who the hell are you to tell other people what to do or say? Fuck Off.
You can tell these guys do not handle guns on the daily or the weekly. Especially love how the guy picks up the rifle with finger in the trigger without knowing if a round was chambered. Luckily no one was hurt in the filming of this episode of the Three Stooges!!!
I call BS on this video.
Thank goodness the yt rang masters are in chat. I think yt lawyers and doctors should replace the real thing.
Yep, stand WAY BACK with these dudes on live fire guns.
I had to take motion sickness pills after watching.
Never had enough time for noticing the fingers inside the trigger guards.
I'm from the UK, so wondering why you don't have a separate safe for guns and a safe for ammo. Also these guys handling of guns was scary AF.
God bless America 🫣
My 2 cents. I have a similar safe to this one. I bought it for fire protection. It is strongly bolted to a concrete wall, the foundation of the fireplace and adjacent to a wall I built withe two hidden surprises that would require a lot to work around. On the last side is the furnace that would be tough to work around. When I bought it I made sure there was concrete 1/2 “ inner liner on all surfaces. As far as whether the guns in this video safe can be made service let, I feel a gunsmith can get most of them working again. The temperature in the safe never got to 460 degrees,. That is the temperature paper products ignite. Also the fact that the bag the pistol didn’t melt (polyester and nylon has a really low melting point). Finally, ammo didn’t cook off which it would at way less than 1200 degrees. The loose rounds as mentioned in some of the previous comments were correct. Probably hand-loaded with lord only know what.
As far as the salvage crew, very sloppy. To properly cut the safe open you cut a shallow depth cut as you really don’t know the thickness of the metal nor the hardness make a series of shallow cuts until you break through. You aren’t in a hurry so take your time. They lucked out when they hit non-hardened steel or worse, two layer of steel separated by concrete.
Regarding the extraction of the guns I cringed when they didn’t clear the guns first using their finger. Several of the guns had carbon on the chamber face that could easily hid a cartridge in the chamber. And has been pointed out, don’t lay the directly on the concrete floor. Put them on a movers quilt to keep the guns safe and pointing away from everyone ( they walked in front of the barrel at least once). Finally don’t handle the ammo like it’s normal. Powder exposed to high heat can become unstable as can the primers. Treat them like they could could cook off any minute. Put them in a steel ammo box and dispose of them.
Sorry for the length of this comment. I got seriously “triggered” by their recklessness.
Hey there brother, thanks for your feedback. I completely agree with your statement. May i ask what model safe you have ?
@@mercedescarballo7861 yes, I too would like to know the model number so I can avoid it.
Everybody is a safety officer on TH-cam. Just shut up
The best way to dispose of the ammo is to soak it in oil for a week or so. You can then try pulling the bullets to recover the brass, but only for scrap.
Yes they did have ammo cook off in that safe.
Many years ago I was at a locksmith shop talking with a locksmith, when a person walked in off the street with a melted glob of a Sentry safe that you can buy at Home Depot. His house had just burnt down that weekend and he wanted the locksmith to open it up to see if some important papers were ok. I watched to locksmith get it open very quickly, and I saw that his important papers were still in perfect shape. Speaks well for little fire safes. I was impressed.
That IS helpful
So many weird get ups out there just want a fire flood proof metal can for the most important stuff.
Can't wait until they video my gun safe recovery from lake Michigan. I lost everything during a boating accident. 😞
Get ahold of adventures with purpose here on youtube, they recover things from water and travel the country.
What are you doing out on Lake Michigan with a full gun safe? I’d never consider locking my firearms in a gun safe while traveling between hunting spots because my vehicle doesn’t have a gun safe.
No one go’s across Lake Michigan with a gun safe in a boat. Maybe in a ship, if you’re moveing.
Completely disregard atf agent
What a tragedy, same thing happened to me while out fishing one day. Over 30 guns lost forever. 😥
This person should never be allowed to use a camera again.
im seasick just from watching this video...lol
Yep ! like a lil kid !
Yeah, he should have his license revoked
This guys running the saw should never be allowed to run one again. Holy shit dude!
😰I'm so dizzy watching this video I'm going to puke🥵...💩💩💩
In my experience, we had a house fire that was a total loss. All the rifles/shotguns in the safe were beyond repair. The pistols in a night stand and a .410 shotgun in the closet all survived with only minimal cosmetic damage. Most of the time it's about where they are in regards to the fire and how long they were exposed.
The insulation, concrete, drywall, what ever is employed has water content. As the safe gets hot, water vapor is released. The guns and various other metals will rust in the humidity and heat whether water is introduced from outside or not.
My company, Kingsbery mfg, invented the metal gunsafe. A gunsafe is a barbecue pit for guns. When I bought the company in 2008, I played around with actually building a fire proof safe, it increased the price by 500% if you expected interior components from being destroyed. That unit in the video is sheet roll super thin steel, garbage. I can tell it had the garbage electronic key pad as well. To open that unit ALL you had to do was hit the 4 corners on top and the top would have sprung open, you can see where the heat split the mig welds already.
I've had to deal with insurance claims on firearms that were stored in safes. Learned many things along the way, like the fact that the temperature is hottest at the top of safes 90% of the time. The cheaper safes that use soft, open cell foam padding in the interior, vaporizes and turns into a gooey corrosive gas that coats stocks and metal, attacking the metal far worse than wood leaving uneven, deeply pitted areas on blued surfaces (stainless guns not as badly affected). If the guns are in the lower part of the safe, surprisingly most of the factory heat treatment & springs were found to be still in spec.. Some rifle barrels, closer to the muzzle end may become compromised (caution on the heat treated Stainless barrels - these may blow apart like a banana peel if high powered rounds are fired - if the barrel anneals in a fire - SS .22 long rifle barrels not so much of a concern). Sometimes the rubberized foam backing from interior carpeting will also create this corrosive goo, but to a lesser degree. I contacted several of the manufacturers like Fort Knox, Homak, Liberty, etc. to see if they were willing to offer custom build interiors with Nomex lining and additional temperature resistance features, but was disappointed that they were not willing to listen to me. Basically your so called fire rated safes are considered so because the mfg will use a special gasket that lines the door that in the event of a fire will swell and seal the door to some degree to help prevent water from the firefighters hose from getting in.... however, as you seen in this video, there are many weak areas that lifted in the rear of the safe and a corner that cracked which allowed the water vapor inside and mix with the corrosive gasses created by the carpet backing. Sorry for writing a book, but I thought I'd share what I thought to be important info to help others protect their valuable firearms.
Safe placement in a home on lowest level of home will be less heat, basement will be the coolest place.
@@bigjohn860 Keep in mind the water that will be used to put out the fire may partially flood the basement. Maybe keep 1 to 1.5 feet off of basement floor, on a custom made steel frame support? Humidity level will be higher in basements as things cool down. Just something to keep in mind.
Most helpful comment I’ve ever read.
AmmoC9M Best comment of the bunch!
@@AmmoC9M Cleaning off corrosion versus structural changes to the metal because of heat?
I'd take the water any day.
If any of my firearms are ever exposed to a top-to-bottom fire that totally destroys the structure, I would rather have them immersed completely in water for weeks and spend a bit of time cleaning them off than risk having them blow up in my face.
I've dealt with this issue a number of times while at Weatherby Inc. The Items in the safe don't necessarily "Burn" because of a lack of oxygen, but they do "Roast" as in like an oven. The rust is caused by the super heating which destroys the finish followed then cooling which causes condensation on the metal surfaces. Serviceability of all the firearms must be done by a qualified Gunsmith with access to at minimum a Rockwell hardness testing rig and a detailed listing of the items factory hardness's limits for it's parts. The super-heating effect will take the temper out of critical area's even though plastic and wood on the guns seems okay. Any gun should be sent to it's respective factory service center for evaluation only after contacting that centers service agent.
Sounds like you know your stuff Ditz.Thanks for the quick analysis. It's very informative and right on the money.
@@colkilgore100 thank you for saying so. It always made me sad having to tell the client their rifle was now a door stop.
Thanks. In other words a gun safe isn’t fire proof.
@@ericcarbonell9927 very few ever were. though I have seen some so ludicrously
thick they could double as a fallout shelter.
@@ditzydoo4378 I remember in Russia we didn't care about most of such stuff-I generally did but was usually considered a picky safety geek.. Although in Canada where I live now and in USA where I am going to move I am always considered an absolute opposite but my friends would have been considered as bold to the point of insanity..I myself had registered three rifles in Russia that were found in relic condition and repaired by me and if you would have seen any of them-you wouldn't have touched it with a 20 meter pole let alone firing them but for me it was normal!Yet why I had been called a safety geek in Russia is because I ranted at people for using a really barbaric method of cleaning the rifles they found.. And I am not making this shit up: they just made a huge campfire, tossed all their findings in there and lit them up!And I literally remember a shit load of times I interrupted them when through the exposed holes made by corrosion through the magazine of a Mosin or Mauser rifle that was about to get lit up I just saw that there were rounds inside!And then I at least with help of a knife and a hammer popped the bottom plate on them, scraped out the follower with remainings of the spring and got the rounds out of them at least! Dozens of times did it yet every single time when on such a rifle the bolt was closed but the cocking piece still frozen cocked-they always fired from the heat of the fire!That is why at least as we were "roasting" their rifles-these rifles were pointed at the safe direction when the whole thing got lit!I didn't do that and so I was considered a safety geek! Who literally had been casually hunting for over a decade with a damn repaired(actually cleaned and refurbished but heavily pitted on the outside) and registered WW2 battlefield relic sniper Mosin rifle that has a damn up to 3mm or 0.1 inch deep pittings on outside and put thousands of full charge rounds through it over the years and cleaned it just twice! Still works by the way as perfectly and as accurately as it is supposed to even after 65-70 years being buried under the ground!
Had a fire and a safe with about 10 firearms in it, house burned. The house was built about 100 years prior to the fire, made from heart pine, burned basically to the ground. Very hot fire for over an hour. I called Cannon safe, the brand I had about 48 hours after, was told to get the firearms out as soon as possible, the carbon steel firearms were very rusty but truly not damaged otherwise. I had one scope that had sucked moisture in when it cooled and a few plastic items in the top of the safe that were damaged from the heat, but glad I had the safe. Main point from me is get your firearms out as quickly as you can and clean and oil them.
The 7mm cooked off because of the kind of propellant that the manufacture used. It just happened to be more susceptible to the heat. With fire fighters in the family, I can tell you that NO safe is good protection against fire if the safe is directly at ground zero. (And sometimes the whole house/home/business can be "ground zero".
"That guns in perfect shape" - immediately drops and scratches gun
They’re in the claim
Oh no. Guns no good. Just scap metal. I'll give 20 dollars apiece.
Okay?
As soon as he said perfect shape and dropped it I said “was” out loud
Do you know the meaning of perfect shape? Those rifles are toast! But yes it can be restored in to perfect condition
They would have been in a little better shape if they didn't immediately slam the safe on it's back to open it.
the smartest comment anybody made was that it was the water used to put out the fire that really caused the damage to the firearms.
@Sid Viscous: Very true. In fact, the narrator makes a point about that, but my question is: how can a person with a gun safe help decrease the chance of water damage? You can't tell the fire department to stop putting the fire out.
@@hoosiered471 Fire department will douse a gun safe if they see one in a fire. Hi pressure water penetrates the door seals and makes your safe a sauna.
When I was moonlighting at a gun shop, I asked firemen about gun safes in a fire. They say they were taught to spray them for fear of blowing up like propane tanks.
@@VICHYATT nice.
The fireproofing material has such a high moisture content when it heats up that gun safe turns into a steamer the rust isn’t from the firefighters water!!!
Dumb...
Two things that come to mind: 1. location of a safe is very important. Having one on the main floor of a home, especially a home with a basement seems less than ideal. Locating the safe in a corner in a basement, would be more ideal, especially with a home fire that does not completely destroy a home. 2. For valuable papers, placing them inside a fire resistant box, that is inside a fire resistant safe would offer more protection, than papers simply left in a safe.
You also have to consider that the basement might fill partially up with standing water from the fire department or rain. A homeowner may not be able to remove the safe for an extended period of time due to several factors such as, fire under investigation, Insurance company prohibits access until house surveyed, basement too dangerous for a safe mover to get in there and remove, lack of equipment to lift/move safe or you are in the hospital!
I've read many times that most gun safes only have thick doors and can be sawed through. I had no idea that it would be this easy with the right saw. That saw could cut through some armored vehicles with less than 1" steel.
Half a million views. Imagine what this video could have done if it wasn't a sideways vertical video. How do you even manage that?
Yeah lol Inwas thinking the same thing
@Nightmarewalkin Psychopathtalkin Colors Colors Colors colors
I started thinking "Why is it that most dumbasses with a camera think it's cool to shoot a video like this instead of horizontal"? LMAO
I made it to 3:17 before I felt the first twinge of nausea. Had to skip to the end.
What about the gun they did not take out on the left side of picture
Things you probably shouldn’t do.. *Reads serial number while filming it, then posts to internet.
My Wife's Best Friend what do you think could happen with a serial number?
the gun is probably on its way to a junkyard anyway
Cuz if the bad guys make illegal parts for guns and say they are making their own .40 barrel then they could use ur serial number and if the bad guys gun gets ran then it will come back as u were the purchaser of that gun. It's a liability thing. Would u let a random person have ur social security number? It's just a number and everyone already has one so what would hurt someone knowing it's? Same concept but for something totally different.
@ElChivo 105 your credit card and SSN are just numbers too.. who cares if a random person has it. Ignorant dumb people these days.
Who cares? Most states don't register guns. The ATF does not. They record the serial number and FFL dealer. It is the FFL dealer's responsibility to record who they sold the gun to. The ATF will go right to the FFL if needed. And then all this is meaningless if the gun is sold privately.
The best thing a serial number will tell you is if it was involved in a crime or the gun is stolen. After that, it's pure WGAF.
Great Video. Was just here after hearing a testimony of a Lahaina survivor and was wondering what happens to weapons in a gun safe after a fire. The only thing left in his safe was ash and barrels. Your video answered my questions.
Safes are designed to be inset, not free-standing. The door is robust because that is the only side meant to face attack. The sides, back, and top are usually an inner and outer layer of mild steel with what is basically sheetrock sandwiched between them. That is intended as insulation, only. The bottom of the safe is most likely a single layer of mild steel. After my 23 year career in fire suppression, I can tell you that safes generally preserve what is inside from fire well enough to allow an insurance settlement that accurately accounts for those items. Documents and cash in a safe should be in sealed plastic bags, and stored at floor level, where it is the coolest.
The Three Stooges open a Gun safe.
Hey Moe, hey Larry!
I have opened 1000's of safes. For this safe in this condition they used the best solution.
" Oh!? A wise guy huh?" Nuck nuck nuck"
Wow I actually heard the guy say. A couple of these are salvageable. What some idiots! They evidently know nothing of guns! They all need a good cleaning!
@@rickymcmillan220 yep
Worked closely with a gunsmith for 10 years. Seen this situation quite a few times. The rust is caused by an acid given off in the smoke not from water. If at all possible you need to get your firearms to someone who can completely disassemble and thoroughly clean as soon after a fire as safely possible.
SO YOU HAVE NO REAL EXPERIENCE OR USEFUL KNOWLEDGE.
Hey everyone including camera’s operator! Thank You! Just so you know I “really enjoy your video” I received exactly what I was hoping for while watching this video! As far as the use of the saw I found it to be normal due to the stresses the light metal took during the fire! The interior of safe was also what I expected but wasn’t sure about! To me it was really sad that a person had to give up the safe for legal reasons??? I’m not sure what that could be and was hoping that would have been more explained!!!
Now the best part of this video was thrown into the comments section! It has many good points if you avoid the negative and political statements! Myself “I” am very political but I didn’t come to this video to make my political viewpoints known!!! I came to see what happens to a safe if in a fire…. That’s it! Nothing more!
So what “I” noticed without reading ALL of the comments…. Yet! I noticed, no fire bricks nor drywall materials??? Even cheap Gun-safes who have/state a fire ratings have something to deflect the temperature. Yet I didn’t see anything other than the white material that looked like a fiber mat which it was mentioned it could be a concrete liners! As you look through from the backside of the safe towards the door of the safe you will see heavy locking pins… which usually means it’s a better safe. But the lack of more fire proofing perhaps it’s not as good as being described (1200 degrees) fire proofing!
So with this knowledge presented in this video I now know to elevate my gun safe by two and half feet off my basement floor and locate the safe near a floor drain with a debris guard on it!
Also I will have to install my gun safe within a metal cabinet to give my gun safe air space from the direct heat of a fire
This will act as a shield against the fire direct contact and could provide the best outcome to keep my guns safe inside of the safe because the metal cabinet will act like a shield and mostly likely take most of the damaging blows of the fire! Also not noted was to keeping flammable materials out of safe to avoid spontaneous combustion! Bullets and cardboard wrappers even your paperwork for gun permits or bills of sales should not be in there find another place for fire proofing them! Perhaps a smaller safe high off basement floor! Did anyone notice the cook off rounds??? Probably shouldn’t have loaded guns in your safe in case of a fire… although I didn’t see where and fired in any gun but it’s something to think about!
O!!!!! K!!!!!! Cool!!!!!!!!! Thx for sharing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cya around!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take care bruh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😎🤓😇🤭
Excellent points, thank you.
As a firefighter for a number of years, the only way to save your personal papers is to have them in a different place not at home usually a safety deposit box and also keep copies of everything paper wise cause once a fire starts the smoke will ruin paper first cause of the sueitt from the under burning process. And as you know the water will get into the most tightest places. watertight stuff is a myth especially in a fire metal expands in heat and concrete cracks in heat. So as soon as the water is introduced to the equation instant leaks.
Yep, put your valuables in a "safe deposit box". That way the GOVERNMENT and/or BANK can access your valuables any time they want. This HAS HAPPENED before, and with the THIEVES in government going PAST their AUTHORITY, they will do it again!!!!
@@johnq.public5911 I'd have to have the whole floor for all the paperwork. And it keeps building every day.
@@johnq.public5911 Thieves liars and scoundrels, Sadly I have come to realize that our government is more corrupt than the mob ever was, That our government is more racist than the Klan ever was, And since our government is responsible for murdering over 100 million unborn children, Dropping atomic bombs on civilians, Provide weapons of mass destruction to many other countries, we are far more deadly than the nazis ever could have dreamed to be. We have allowed our Republic to be governed by men with no virtues. We were warned of this by our founders. Now what
I'm putting my safe inside a safe surrounded by fire brick. If you notice chimneys are the only thing leftover after a house is burnt to the ground.
Takes a lotta heat.to melt a ceramic. Way more than can be produced naturally. Detroit and others looked into ceramic engines for a minute. Rich/San Jose
The damage you see isn't from heat, it's water. Firefighters flooded the house. Had he opened the safe right away, dried and oiled the weapons they would all be fine.
The heat of a house fire leaves the chimney brick, sure. But if a house burns down while there are logs set in the fireplace, those logs will burn as well.
@@mikenonia1763 Yes, it's water damage, but not from the firemen's hoses. The rust is from condensation upon cooling. There is a seal around the door that melts into place when heated and protects from water and smoke intrusion for about as long as the rest of the safe protects against heat. Whatever humidity control may have been in the safe was quickly destroyed by the fire's heat, as was any light coating of oil or preservative on the steel. When everything cooled, moisture in the air got through the now destroyed seal and condensed on the steel, and that's all it takes to get rust. If the safe had been flooded, all that insulation and other debris--which as we see is very dry and brittle--would have been a moldy, muddy mass.
I appreciate this video. I always thought the items in the safe would be more protected.
It's all going to matter how well the safe is built, the fire rating BTU's, how well it seals during the fire, and location of the safe in your house. That safe looks very flimsy compared to the one I have.
My wife said, "Do you know how mad I would be if my whole house burned down and the only things left were your fu@&ing guns?"
Wait, you aren't using that safe for jewelry, documents, precious metals, and photos along with the guns?
The Chopping Block not really. The only paper in there is the ATF paperwork for my suppressor. She really hates that accessory!
@@thomaskolditz4293 I'll never understand why men marry women who vehemently despise something important to the man or who believe it's any of their business what he likes. And I'll never understand a man who doesn't share everything he owns. There should be plenty of room in your safe for important documents, an external HDD backup, jewelery, precious metals, photos, and other valuables. If there isn't room for those things then there isn't room for the next guns you are going to buy and you need a bigger safe.
The Chopping Block I think there is probably a lot you don’t understand-especially independent women and confident men who ignore your unsolicited opinions.
@@thomaskolditz4293 lol. You spelled "cuck" wrong.
I enjoyed turning my head for almost 20 minutes
Good neck excercise
65
What ?
Omg. Came here to comment how the camera man should have been put down for terrible use of a phone. But you beat me to it.
Lol
I was getting weirded out by the handling of possibly loaded weapons with unstable ammunition that might be in the barrel. Firearms safety was (literally) beaten in to us as children and I get this pavlovian response to seeing an unknown weapon being pointed in the general direction of people.
I had guns in a safe that was in a house burned in a wildfire. In other words, it was superheated for hours. The ammo cooked off, the plastics melted, and none of the guns were usuable. In fact, in the entire house the only reusable item was a cast iron skillet and even it was warped.
We had a safe in similar condition from a fire. Called the manufacturer and they recommended cutting a 10"x10" area above the dial. It took a few minutes with a battery operated angle grinder. Reached in and operated the mechanism and opened the door. Similar condition to what was in the safe here. A few guns were very rusted, a few looked in pretty good shape.
Those guns are in fine shape , clean the hell out of them , test em’ out , and have fun ! Do not junk good shooting iron !
A good disassembly, clean up and replace the springs...heat probably killed the springs...you now have some that look like war guns!!
If it didn't melt plastic then the springs are fine
Nice stuff that was inside and pretty well protected too.
It's not just rated temperature, it's the amount of time the safe is exposed as well. If the whole house burned around it it was in there a pretty long time on full heat. I think the safe did very well. A fire that was put out before it stayed on the safe too long, the guns would be in good shape. You can't expect miracles, unless you pay for them.
And you know, I was getting a little seasick trying to watch it.
❤
I thought about buying miracles just never thought I could really buy them.
I would not be afraid of firing any of those guns after a good cleaning . It wasn’t hot enough to even stain those ammo boxes on the top shelf.
@@frankplummer5084 Agree
Gotta love how they're opening a salvaged safe pulling out shotguns and rifles with magazines in them without checking the chambers on every gun. Checking a pistol here and a .22 there won't keep you from getting shot!
Alright sally, guns just don't go off libtard
Watching the vid, they were being very careful, and my guess is most of the guns like the one rifle are siezed up and need worked on and cleaned one by one to even be operational. Looks like they'll take great care and be safe doing it.
@@skeeskeeter6994 So you are admitting that you failed to properly secure your weapon thus causing a discharge. Way to go genius.
@@Nate-cw7of Libtard my fat ass! Guns are mechanical devices and those particular mechanical devices were burned up in a fire, potentially warping/weakening the actions and/or destabilizing the chemistry of the powder charge and primer. Just jostling them around can cause a discharge with a round in the chamber, bright boy. The actions can be opened carefully while not exposing themselves to the breach and pointing them in a safe direction to make sure the chambers are clear. They muzzled the camera guy numerous times while he was filming.
@@Megalodon60 Every other action they checked opened with no problem. Care and safety weren't present in this video.
*I'm curious as to how this Safe was acquired, I mean who told you this was available and where was the Safe at? If this person was in trouble I'm assuming the police may have had this or another of the owners family member. The heating up of the Safe made all seams expand letting moisture from the fire hose dowsing the fire; as for the door, the steel is thicker and if it was bolted down into an enclosure would keep it secure.*
The fact that some ammo cooked off is proof that the safe did NOT protect the contents from fire. You could beef up fire protection by building a wall of brick (refractory kind is better) around, under and over the safe.
I think he had the camera mounted on a fidget spinner.
When doing this every chamber needs to be opened on first contact and locked open if possible. Safety first.
I have no experience in this particular area, however I was reminded of the San Francisco fire. It was found that safes that were opened soon after the fire had their combustible contents catch on fire immediately upon being exposed to air. I'm posting from memory, interested folk should do their own research. As I understand the matter, the water used to put the fire out does the most damage.
I definitely always wondered how safes would hold up under intense flame and water suppression from a house fire. I mean, I don’t own any safes nor any firearms, but I did always wonder. 😉
Keep in mind that that is only how this particular safe held up. It looks to be a fairly low budget unit as well, which is easily seen by the seams splitting open and the lack of thickness of the steel. I don't think even the best safes are "fire proof", as much as being "fire rated" for a specific amount of time. You can help your safe with this simply by building an enclosure around it with sheetrock. two layers of 1/2" sheetrock will give you an extra hour (maybe a bit longer) fire rating, and hopefully give the FD enough time to get the fire under control.
Didn’t get hot enough to hurt the wood what makes you think the guns are bad. There all still good.
Lol sand paper And surcoat
Just need to be replied and cleaned and lubed and your golden
@Franklin Rosario if you listened the guy got in legal trouble having to forfeit the safe....
This is like watching the 3 stoges.🤣
Stooges.
Thanks. good info, the pictures speak for themselves
So basically invest in fireproof and waterproof safe. Not just fireproof.
Definition of a safe - it keeps thing inside safe from -what ever the safe is designed for- once the safe is breached all safety is off. A Pelican gun case is a safe to protect from water damage unless it’s not closed. That safe kept what was in it safe from fire until the fire exceeded the time/temperature rating or it fell through the floor and got split open. The guns need some TLC and are probably fine.
What happened to clearing a gun immediately when you get it?
i know right
@@bidenisdog8294 Who watches videos on their phone? lol
@@calholli Everyone.
@@calholli everyone fud
"they got hot enough to rust but look ok"? That pretty much did it for me on the fireproof safe.
very nice vid. I like the way you got too it instead of beating around the bush forever like a lot of people do. Those guns could be reconditioned and be worth quite a bit. Good luck.
i know who I will NEVER be flying with!!! If this guy flies like he videos it's a wonder he's still alive.
I would not even be a passenger his car
Gotta love the guy putting his finger on the trigger of the gun while picking it up
thats where YOU are supposed to put your finger!! its a finger guard!! did you NOT learn that??? hahaha...
@@dalemaloney255 #FingerGaurd
reminds me of fbi special agent "back flip"
Gun safety police checked in probly a lib obummer vagina
🤦🏽♂️
You guys gave me the willies the way you handled the guns, good thing no one got hurt..
I really enjoyed watching this video. I've learned a lot from it.
Would have been nice if you had pulled out a folding table and removed the firearms one at a time without flagging the cameraman and actually cleared each firearm as you safely removed them, one at a time.
I think the way these residential security containers work is they are lined inside with gypsum board, and the gypsum board retains enough moisture that gets released as steam in the safe to keep the content cooler than the fire. If you leave them in the safe after the fire, they will rust pretty quickly.
When powdered Portland cement is mixed with water it hydrates and becomes hardened Portland cement releasing heat as it hydrates. When exposed to high heat, it absorbs heat as it releases the water of hydration, as it loses its structure and returns to its powdered form. That is exactly what it is designed to do, and that is how it is able to meet the standards for a fire rating. The water released caused the guns to rust. A safe like this must be opened immediately after the fire to save any of the contents. Powdered gypsum, when mixed with water, similarly hydrates to form gypsum plaster and when heated absorbs the heat while releasing water vapor and returning to powdered gypsum.
Exactly what happened with mine, removed them, cleaned and oiled them right away and saved every one.
Thank you for the information.
Very educational thank you
I'll give 15 dollars for each and every one of those "useless" guns.
I'd give £10,000 for them in UK. One would sell for that on street here
Ill give a trumpet for the whole lot. Maybe a school math book.
Because that makes sense
@@mattsmith1456 I’ve got 100 unregistered butter knives how much would they sell?
@@mattsmith1456 it really wouldn't
I would say it did pretty good considering because at M&P 15-22 is polymer which is basically plastic and it didn't totally melt it
It would seem that part of a safe's standard equipment features would be a temp sensor device that would show the max temp reached inside. It could be one time disposable type.
That's a very good cut... and those guns are all in pretty good shape considering what they have been through... all of them are absolutely able to be restored
We turned them over to the authorities.
As a pilot you must have thought cameras are able to operate in 3 dimensions ✈. Had to turn it into a radio program. My neck was killing me...😜. Was a great distraction while grounded for the day. Any chance of a follow up with the guns? ... and have you planned a video for your thoughts on keeping your guns safe? Mine are in a shelter under the front steps of my house.... all concrete and helps with tornadoes as well (Missour).
I actually feel pissed off after watching most of this.
I for one enjoy informative videos 📹 and this is one of the most interesting ones I've seen
Would be helpful to add a description of the safe, location in the home during the fire, etc.
As a retired firefighter a room in a normal home reaches 1800- 2000 degrees in a few minutes when flashover occurs
I recondition guns all the time that have been in fires. Most of the time if the gun has not been in direct contact with the fire you are good to go.
House fires also produce toxic chemical smoke which is acidic and will cause rust without being exposed to water, also when the fire dept. puts water on the fire it creates steam which can travel through the air and finds its way into the cracks in the safe.
The safe will have 2 ratings...1 is temperature 2 is how long it is exposed to that temperature such as 1400 degrees for 30 min. Typical house fire, if i am not mistaken burns at 1200 degrees for 30 or 45 minutes.
I trick I was taught is to put 3 to 4 (whichever fit) 5 gallon jugs of water on top of the safe, as the fire buns and melts the jugs it will release water that will run down the safe cooling it enough to extend the time exposed to the fire.....hopefully I will never have to find out if it really works.
Be Blessed
Mark Sligar
Mark Sligar of course the buckets of water WILL NOT WORK. by the time the water gets to the point it’ll start melting the buckets the safe has already been cooking too long. You’re only adding more steam to the environment. Build a camp fire fill a styrofoam cup with water set it in the fire and you’ll see it will not melt until water evaporates or gets hot enough to melt it. I also disagree that any water got in that safe, the cardboard ammo boxes didn’t even show any signs of water damage or absorption.
When my home burnt the fire marshal said that it was way over 2000 degrees but it was an old two story farm house that some assholes burnt when I was gone
allen fisher a lot of the old house around where I live are over 100 years old and there was a lot of oak used to build them, so when they burn they burn hot and for a long time, seasoned oak makes great firewood.
that is a genius tip, will be picking up some buckets
Had it happen now I would use steel stud wall around the safe with the cement backer boards used around fireplaces then either sheetrock or steel siding panels. You can also get kiln insulation and firebrick for extreme temps. I did notice thick books or stacks of magazines only had outsides chared so a small pistol in a dictionary would probably work too lol
Thanks for sharing!! Great video!!! Good info!!!
It's thermodynamics. All insulation can do is buy you some time before the outside and inside temperatures normalize. I think the best ones can withstand an hour or something at a certain temperature. My detached garage actually caught fire some years back, and that's some serious fire and temperature. There were like 5 firetrucks... lol. But a whole house going up would be too intense to really expect to salvage much.
Thanks. A good educational video.
That is a Mini-14. And yes it is a 22, .223 to be exact. It is the Precision model and that thing at the end of the barrel is an adjustable barrel dampener so you can find tune the barrel harmonics to whatever kind of ammunition you're running through it.
To my knowledge the fire rating on safes using the "cement" (I haven't a clue what that fire retardant stuff is) fire retardant looses its viability over the years. The smaller safes I opened without a key or combination in the past the "cement" is enclosed in a plastic bag. The "cement" is pliable and has condensation inside the bag. So with age the small amount liquid evaporates.
The exploding ammo probably imported. They aren't very good with tolerances when seating the bullets or primers. A few errant smoke less powder and its fireworks with a kick.
The fire rating is only for a specific period of time at that temperature or below. Everything would have come out better if the live ammunition wasn’t stored in the safe because once the gun powder hit ignition temperature they went off and generated heat inside the safe which damaged the bluing which made the guns more vulnerable to rusting. The line on the bottom of the safe wasn’t were it “cooked” longer. That line existed because the debris covered that area to prevent air from getting to the metal causing oxidation (rust). Kind of wondering if they were able to bring any of those guns back to their former glory.
Ammunition is nitrate based - high temperatures release nitric acids even if the ammunition doesn’t detonate.
Storing ammunition separately is highly recommended.
Just a thought, put 2 to 4 layers of sheetrock on the OUTSIDE of the safe to keep the heet from getting to the contents in the first place.
Not reqular but type X sheetrock.
It would help to know make and model of the safe because not all 1200 degree "fire rated safes" are the same. This one did really well, others I have opened at house fires there was nothing left, just some charred metal. FYI, if you ask the fire department nicely, they can open your gun safe with the "jaws of life" that's what we do.
I personally don’t buy “box store” safes. Such as basspro, Walmart, tractor supply etc. I research and buy quality safes. Look at reviews, warranties, and the overall company. Fort Knox safes, rhino, American safe company, Stewart’s safes, and such are of excellent quality and most are backed by an amazing warranty. I personally have a Rhino and a Stewart’s. Both are backed by a 1 million dollar warranty on contents ( from smoke and fire damage). Both have a 2500 degree 145 minute rating. Now they are quality safes and quality costs money. When you have $100,000’s worth of stuff in each safe, you want it protected in my opinion and spending $5000-7000 on a quality safe is just an afterthought at that point in my opinion. Also all the companies I listed, will come, get your belongings out of the safe for you, and also give you a brand new safe. It’s a 1 time purchase that will last a lifetime. Have forbid that anyone has to go through a house fire. If they do though, it’s good to have a quality safe. Again my opinion. I also understand not everyone can afford a $5000+ safe.
I think the material referred too as concrete is actually vermiculite. It is supposed to release steam during the fire for so long keeping the contents of the safe at 212 f. Once it releases all its moisture though the inside temp will rise. That is why fire safes have a time rating.
Hey Creek! Thanks for the comment! Another person sent me a message that one would have had to have gotten the guns out right away and re heat tested them or they would have kept rusting. Good to hear from you!
Not vermiculite, its concrete. Dikky
@@timedvrodlehnen8448 Concrete ? lol
@@timedvrodlehnen8448 drywall
It is a question of TIME as well as temperature. A fire safe can only delay the time it takes for contents to heat up to the point where damage occurs.
Wonder what brand those 7mag rnds are. Considering that they are the only rnds to combust. That says the flash point of powder is lower than the normal loads. Probably reloads
My rifles were in a flood and under water for two weeks. Took them, striped them, cleaned and they were fine. I had two old mosins that turned the stocks a little white but oiled them up and cleaned the barrels by shooting them. My ARs the barrels went black inside but overall they were fine. Wife's snub-nosed is alum/stainless and water had no effect on it. I still have them
Don't let the Camera guy shoot any of the guns , he'll point in wrong direction .
Ralphie was the one with the camera. He had already shot 1 eye out.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
None of them should
This was the funniest comment! I laughed out loud literally
The damage was done by not opening it after the fire and cleaning the guns. Instead it was left for months and the guns rusted.
Curious what brand safe
Pistol was in great shape until you dropped it. Lol.
Lmao that's exactly what I said to myself 😂
All "fireproof"safe are rated for a time limit. There are exceptions but most under $1500 are only rated for an hour. 2 hour safes cost more and so on.
You treated that pistol like you knew it was unloaded. Unwise.
Have a cement basement and waterproof your containers. If no basement sealed ammo type cans buried in the dirt in your crawl space would survive well, the g-rage with its slab floors near metal rolling door, and single walls may do better than the middle of the house
I've been thru a house fire &it's a heart breaking experience. I was lucky to have my firearms survive. But it was the loss of over 15,000 rds of ammunition that really hurt me.
@douglasgault5458 Did you inform the firefighters about the ammo in the dwelling? If so, did they balk or were hesatent to go in due to a possible "cook-off"? Was the ammo in a gunsafe or open to the elements? I have around 10,000 rds. in my bedroom closet open to the elements of a house fire.
Just trying to be pro-active and seeking info, if disaster stkikes. Thanks for a reply bro.
It's a camera - not a paint brush. I'm dizzy now.
I know with this camera like hanging off of his dick or something I don't understand the perspective or what you're trying to accomplish in this filming
q7wasp7 I sure as hell hope he doesn’t fly like he videos? LMFAO
Hahaha!!
The cameraman is a stunt pilot, you can tell by the way he keeps doing inverted S's while flying the camera
FYI - Just because something "survived" in a fire rated safe, does not mean that it's worth restoring. Tolerances shift, tempering shifts, these guns are not the same guns when they left the factory.
"They got hot and they rusted, but they're not in bad shape." Oh yes they are. The heat treatment on those barrels has gone to shit.
I was surprised at how easy it was to cut into the safe back at their shop. That's why my gun safe is bolted to the wall and the cement floor.
This reminds me of something I heard about car thieves when I lived in NYC. The main tools they would use were a flat bed truck and a fork lift. They would cruise down the street looking for the type of car they wanted. When they found the car, they would use the fork lift to pick it up and put it on their flat bed truck. Then they could take it back to their shop and have all the time they needed to strip it down so they could sell the parts. It's too bad you can't bolt your car down to it's parking space.
"the lowers look incredible" How tf you gonna know what a lower is and not know they're forged aluminum that doesn't rust like steel?
How u know their not polymers, like the other guy said, cardboard boxes didn't even char. I was impressed with his saw and wanted one till I realized he was only cutting sheet metal. Rich
@@richardhill8797 Those are mil-spec forged aluminum (7075) lowers, one of which is a S&W M&P. Can't see the markings on the other 3. But yeah, that saw though.. I was pretty impressed with that thing!
Moral of the story: Gun safe doors are always impressive but you cannot rely on a gun safe to be secure.
You can always add a Fire Blanket Safe Cover. Takes extra time to access but would be worth it.
Jesus Christ. Any of these guys ever took a safety class ? Or learned anything from their grandpa.
@@crawlinbear1963 as soon as I saw them in a hanger and brought that circular saw, I thought to myself ,"this should be interesting " a little disappointed nobody shed some blood. A pilot only has only so much luck allotted.
No apparent safety training and unfortunately, between the three of them, they have 6 grandmothers.........
Those firearms are completely salvageable.
Good cleaning and minor parts/gunsmith work and they would be good to go.
That gun Safe has more ammo in it than most gun stores do at this present time
I know at Liberty safes in Utah if they get one that is locked up,they saw the bottom out. But they haven't been burnt either. The reason they go through the bottom,is they just weld it back on,plus they don't paint the bottoms. Lots of people just have a cement room with a vault door. But they are pretty pricey,thank what your putting in there,if the cost is close then it may be worth it. If I remember right the cost of a cement room is around,$10,000 or more.