I have a Thongsheng TSDZ2 motor installed in my MENDIX RX-4 MTB, which I have already done 13,000 kilometers, and I am really delighted with the performance... Except that, from approximately 6.000 kilometers on, I had the same noise problem when pedaling on it right side. I came across this video after a while of rotating the position of the cranks 180º (which caused the squeak to disappear for a while, until it reappeared), and once I watched it, I was convinced that the source of the squeak was It was the crack in the sensor shaft. I dared to carry out the disassembly following the steps indicated in the recording and discovered that the axle was in perfect condition. Once this was verified, I reassembled everything, lubricating the bearings, bottom bracket, circlips, sensor disc springs and, above all, the elastic wave washer mounted on the left end of the bottom bracket, which I think is where it is located. It produces the noise when flexing. After 1000 kilometers driven since the disassembly, I must say that everything runs like the first day.
Not bad for 13,000 km without a fault. I recently replaced the second torque sensor after 15,000 km. A year after making this video, when I heard the squeaking again, I realized another possible cause of the squeaking. The shaft resting in the torque sensor also makes such a creaking sound, on the right side. This can also be eliminated by spraying a little oil spray. Maybe I should indicate in this video that it is not necessary to completely disassemble the motor, maybe a few drops of oil or if we grease the axle is enough. th-cam.com/video/7Rcwg_z-67Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Zm3ptU1tyKYgxxza And even this video is not completely accurate, because I think it's not the sprag clutch that squeaks, but the pedal axle as it rests in the torque sensor.
Very helpful. If you have an extended version of the motor, eg 100mm or 120mm, the spindle will only knock out of the drive side. So you have to remove the torque sensor first
If all you hear is a squeak from the right crank, you may just need to pull the rubber seal on the axle and spray a little oil under the rubber disc. I don't have a video of this simple fix yet, because my bike started squeaking like this a few days ago. But the oil helped this time.
Thank you for the video. Exactly what I needed. My crank axel has snapped so this was perfect. Now I need to find a shop selling a new one. I hit too many rocks with my pedals. I have the 100mm version so not many available
My crank axel broke two weeks ago at circlip groove. Fortunately, I still have a shaft from my old torque sensor. Even though the circlip grooves on it are a bit different, I was able to fit it with spacer rings. My plan is to make a new axle with a lathe, but without the circlip grooves and assemble it only with a spacer and shaft tightening ring.
@@mcelec7603 thank you. Not good you broke another. It seems like there are only a couple of suppliers of these spindles and they are out of stock or very expensive with delivery and tax. I'm going to investigate having a couple made (from stainless steel maybe which is stronger). Also without circlip grooves and try and shim the external gap between the motor housing and the crank arms.
Thanks for the video. I’m getting a similar (though less bad squeak) coming from my 4 month old TSDZ2. I guess we’ll see how good their warranty service is.
I bought mine on ebay in Germany. The torque sensor on that one broke after a month when the wire rubbed out. I wrote the seller about the symptoms. The seller agreed to let me disassemble the motor, and when I sent him photos of the torque sensor, he sent me a new sensor. It was not easy, but if you bought the motor from a local dealer it might be easier to get it repaired.
I just installed my TSDZ2 and I got this creaking straight away. If you didn't get anything I would suggest a rear gear hub motor but you must use a torque arm either side. Also, forget about the 250 watt "law" all the big ebike motor manufacturers run their bikes well over 250 watts and closer to 1 Kw at the peaks or even more, the most important thing is the 15.5 Mph limit. No one cares about power, it's the speed cut off that's important. You can set this speed limit yourself. I'm trying to compare my 2013 Gen I 50 Nm Bosch motor to this TSDZ2 at 52v and while it's nice not to have the speed limit I think the Bosch is way more powerful so going to try the Bosch again tomorrow on the same hill and see if I notice the difference but I think the torque rating of this TSDZ2 is nonsense.
IMO, that squeak is from loose crank arms. Once you re-mounted them and properly tensioned them the squeek goes away. If mine squeaks a bit, I tighten up the crank arm bolts.
Many thanks for a really informative video. I set off the other day, the pedals turned two or three times then the motor quit. This happened twice then it packed in for good. Do you think this sounds like a torque sensor failure? If so I'll buy a new one and follow your instructions.
Thank you. You can diagnose the motor based on my other video. th-cam.com/video/6guf_4u6d1I/w-d-xo.html If the walk assist mode works properly, but there is no power assist while cycling, the torque sensor is probably faulty. if the freewheel in the blue gear slips, or if there is a problem with the electric motor or the control, then the walk assist mode also doesn't work.
i dismantled the torque part of my tsdz2. Torque assist stopped when i probablyused too much force going upwards. It lasted less than 1000 km and although i think will order a compete set and see if it works again that if not that a bafang without torque might be a better option in the end. What is your experience with the lifespan of the torque assist?, greetings Wim
Well, it's not over-designed, that's a fact. My opinion is that the life of the torque sensor is 7000-8000 km maximum with intensive use. I have experienced several times that the stator wire has broken from vibration right at the stator's base. I haven't had a problem with too much power so far, and I pedal quite hard from time to time. But I'm very careful not to accidentally hit the crank arm on the objects. Since I replaced it, I have done 2000 km with the new one without any failure. Please watch the first two minutes of this video, it has some ideas on how to diagnose faulty parts, because other things can cause no assist: th-cam.com/video/6guf_4u6d1I/w-d-xo.html
Are you riding extreme, downhill off roading, doing jumps? If I purchase one of these should I take it apart first and check build quality before using it? I'm looking at the 250/350 watt model (UK law forbids more than 250w) for gentle road use, it's hilly where I live so most bicycles are electric assist. Are they heavy rain proof, it rains alot? Quick update, the manufacturer claims the torque sensor could be damaged if the motors chainring side makes contact with the bicycle frame and now provides spacers. This makes some sense. What are your thoughts on this?
I do a lot of muddy off-road and uphill cycling. There may be some places where I'd rather walk uphill on my bike, but I really enjoy the assist. The mudguard can seriously extend the life of the chain, since I fitted it I hardly have to clean the chain at all. I think the 350w model is plenty powerful enough. I tried it with a 52 sprocket and I could ride it continuously on flat roads at 45 km/h (with this wide off road tire). Since I prefer to use it off road I fitted it with a 42 sprocket. The manufacturer has made a few minor modifications already (mine is over four years old) and if you get a one year warranty you don't have to worry so much. Still, it's ok if you know how to install and repair it. Be careful not to hit the pedal while riding, unfortunately I've hit it a few times on protruding roots and rocks and that's probably why it broke sooner. The spacer is a really good idea in case the sprocket touches the frame, luckily I have enough clearance. This torque sensor solution is incredibly comfortable, it doesn't take anything away from the pleasure of cycling but it does make climbing hills easier. Unfortunately there aren't many options to choose from on the market.
What did you get after ? I just installed my TSDZ2 and I got this creaking straight away. If you didn't get anything I would suggest a rear gear hub motor but you must use a torque arm either side. Also, forget about the 250 watt "law" all the big ebike motor manufacturers run their bikes well over 250 watts and closer to 1 Kw at the peaks or even more, the most important thing is the 15.5 Mph limit. No one cares about power, it's the speed cut off that's important. You can set this speed limit yourself. I'm trying to compare my 2013 Gen I 50 Nm Bosch motor to this TSDZ2 at 52v and while it's nice not to have the speed limit I think the Bosch is way more powerful so going to try the Bosch again tomorrow on the same hill and see if I notice the difference but I think the torque rating of this TSDZ2 is nonsense.
Hello! I have a full suspension bike, an old bergamont evolv. At minute 2:16 it is correct that I see that you have found the system to fix the engine? thanks for the video!
Hello, since I couldn't use the original mounting bracket because of the rear swing arm, I created this solution. Even so, sometimes the big fixing nut comes loose, so I marked its position with a marker pen. I also use a threadlocker on the lock nut and screws. So it's a bit tricky to mount the engine on a bike with full suspension, but I really like full suspension bikes because I mostly ride on unpaved roads. It is also important to note that the TSDZ2 can be mounted in a bottom bracket (innenlager) up to 73 mm wide.
Surprisingly, since my last repair, the replacement of the torque sensor, I have done 3,500 km without a problem. Honestly, it's a little surprising. 😃 Bosch, Brose, Yamaha are certainly more reliable, but they can only be installed in a special frame, they are much more expensive and it is almost impossible to repair them at home. The TSDZ2 is easy to repair, cheap parts are available, and if you don't torture it, it can last a long time. The torque sensor works as wonderfully as Bosch, Brose or Yamaha. It is true, the TSDZ2 is not for those with strong legs, and it is easily damaged if you hit the pedal or the crank. That's it.
I have this really loud whining sound when only the motor is on (throttle or pedal) but no wining sounds when the motor is off and pedalling. I wonder if you have a video or know if you had a whining sound only when the motor was on and turning by throttle or pedalling? as you only show when you push it just a little i cant tell if its the same problem.
Perhaps wear on the plastic gear on the other side, or a bearing or freewheel in the gear, or a bearing on the motor shaft, could be causing the whining sound. You should check the motor and blue plastic gear and bearings too. There is a video from the motor side of the drive: th-cam.com/video/6guf_4u6d1I/w-d-xo.html
@Mc Elec - At 1:36 what kind of tool do you use to pop the circlip off? I tried using a Park Tool SPA-2 pin spanner, but the pins on the tool are too large.
I am ordering this tool: ```Knipex External Right Angle Snap Ring Pliers 90 Degree 1.8mm Tip Circlip Plier``` I think this should be the right size, I can post later with results.
At home I have a cheap, universal tool. It's not a perfect tool, but suitable for larger circlips. www.amazon.com/Combination-Universal-Internal-External-Straight/dp/B07NP2FFMB At workplace I have a professional Wurth set. eshop.wurth.co.uk/Product-categories/Circlip-pliers-set-type-A-B-C-D/31086022080204.cyid/3108.cgid/en/GB/GBP/
I need expert opinion. Is there somehow a way with physical alterations to install sensor to bbshd, it will be connected to different controller. They are almost same shape afterall
I have a Thongsheng TSDZ2 motor installed in my MENDIX RX-4 MTB, which I have already done 13,000 kilometers, and I am really delighted with the performance... Except that, from approximately 6.000 kilometers on, I had the same noise problem when pedaling on it right side.
I came across this video after a while of rotating the position of the cranks 180º (which caused the squeak to disappear for a while, until it reappeared), and once I watched it, I was convinced that the source of the squeak was It was the crack in the sensor shaft. I dared to carry out the disassembly following the steps indicated in the recording and discovered that the axle was in perfect condition. Once this was verified, I reassembled everything, lubricating the bearings, bottom bracket, circlips, sensor disc springs and, above all, the elastic wave washer mounted on the left end of the bottom bracket, which I think is where it is located. It produces the noise when flexing.
After 1000 kilometers driven since the disassembly, I must say that everything runs like the first day.
Not bad for 13,000 km without a fault. I recently replaced the second torque sensor after 15,000 km. A year after making this video, when I heard the squeaking again, I realized another possible cause of the squeaking. The shaft resting in the torque sensor also makes such a creaking sound, on the right side. This can also be eliminated by spraying a little oil spray. Maybe I should indicate in this video that it is not necessary to completely disassemble the motor, maybe a few drops of oil or if we grease the axle is enough.
th-cam.com/video/7Rcwg_z-67Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Zm3ptU1tyKYgxxza
And even this video is not completely accurate, because I think it's not the sprag clutch that squeaks, but the pedal axle as it rests in the torque sensor.
Thanks for such a clear and concise video.
Very helpful. If you have an extended version of the motor, eg 100mm or 120mm, the spindle will only knock out of the drive side. So you have to remove the torque sensor first
Thanks for the info. Good to know, I might have to install it in a "PressFit 92" bottom bracket soon. I don't know if it's possible yet.
This video is exactly what I needed
If all you hear is a squeak from the right crank, you may just need to pull the rubber seal on the axle and spray a little oil under the rubber disc. I don't have a video of this simple fix yet, because my bike started squeaking like this a few days ago. But the oil helped this time.
So I didn't have a squeak but I did have those wires shear just like yours. Trying to figure out how to solder in new ones.
Excellent video for information thank you knowledge is valuable for newbies like me.
Thank you.
Thank you for the video. Exactly what I needed. My crank axel has snapped so this was perfect. Now I need to find a shop selling a new one. I hit too many rocks with my pedals. I have the 100mm version so not many available
My crank axel broke two weeks ago at circlip groove. Fortunately, I still have a shaft from my old torque sensor. Even though the circlip grooves on it are a bit different, I was able to fit it with spacer rings. My plan is to make a new axle with a lathe, but without the circlip grooves and assemble it only with a spacer and shaft tightening ring.
Forum on the topic: endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/tsdz2-120mm-axle-broke-for-the-2nd-time-on-my-fatbike.98361/
@@mcelec7603 thank you. Not good you broke another. It seems like there are only a couple of suppliers of these spindles and they are out of stock or very expensive with delivery and tax. I'm going to investigate having a couple made (from stainless steel maybe which is stronger). Also without circlip grooves and try and shim the external gap between the motor housing and the crank arms.
Thanks for the video. I’m getting a similar (though less bad squeak) coming from my 4 month old TSDZ2. I guess we’ll see how good their warranty service is.
I bought mine on ebay in Germany. The torque sensor on that one broke after a month when the wire rubbed out. I wrote the seller about the symptoms. The seller agreed to let me disassemble the motor, and when I sent him photos of the torque sensor, he sent me a new sensor. It was not easy, but if you bought the motor from a local dealer it might be easier to get it repaired.
I just installed my TSDZ2 and I got this creaking straight away.
If you didn't get anything I would suggest a rear gear hub motor but you must use a torque arm either side.
Also, forget about the 250 watt "law" all the big ebike motor manufacturers run their bikes well over 250 watts and closer to 1 Kw at the peaks or even more, the most important thing is the 15.5 Mph limit. No one cares about power, it's the speed cut off that's important. You can set this speed limit yourself.
I'm trying to compare my 2013 Gen I 50 Nm Bosch motor to this TSDZ2 at 52v and while it's nice not to have the speed limit I think the Bosch is way more powerful so going to try the Bosch again tomorrow on the same hill and see if I notice the difference but I think the torque rating of this TSDZ2 is nonsense.
For easy installation the receiving coil place two magnets outside the case opposite metal cylinders on the coil, this will hold springs.
IMO, that squeak is from loose crank arms. Once you re-mounted them and properly tensioned them the squeek goes away. If mine squeaks a bit, I tighten up the crank arm bolts.
Very helpful video! Out of interest, what grease do you use for TSDZ2?
Many thanks for a really informative video. I set off the other day, the pedals turned two or three times then the motor quit. This happened twice then it packed in for good. Do you think this sounds like a torque sensor failure? If so I'll buy a new one and follow your instructions.
Thank you. You can diagnose the motor based on my other video. th-cam.com/video/6guf_4u6d1I/w-d-xo.html
If the walk assist mode works properly, but there is no power assist while cycling, the torque sensor is probably faulty.
if the freewheel in the blue gear slips, or if there is a problem with the electric motor or the control, then the walk assist mode also doesn't work.
Good job man..👍
Thank you.
i dismantled the torque part of my tsdz2. Torque assist stopped when i probablyused too much force going upwards. It lasted less than 1000 km and although i think will order a compete set and see if it works again that if not that a bafang without torque might be a better option in the end. What is your experience with the lifespan of the torque assist?, greetings Wim
Well, it's not over-designed, that's a fact. My opinion is that the life of the torque sensor is 7000-8000 km maximum with intensive use. I have experienced several times that the stator wire has broken from vibration right at the stator's base. I haven't had a problem with too much power so far, and I pedal quite hard from time to time. But I'm very careful not to accidentally hit the crank arm on the objects. Since I replaced it, I have done 2000 km with the new one without any failure.
Please watch the first two minutes of this video, it has some ideas on how to diagnose faulty parts, because other things can cause no assist:
th-cam.com/video/6guf_4u6d1I/w-d-xo.html
@@mcelec7603 thank you for the info, l'll try your suggestions
grazie mille dele info :)
Are you riding extreme, downhill off roading, doing jumps?
If I purchase one of these should I take it apart first and check build quality before using it?
I'm looking at the 250/350 watt model (UK law forbids more than 250w) for gentle road use, it's hilly where I live so most bicycles are electric assist.
Are they heavy rain proof, it rains alot?
Quick update, the manufacturer claims the torque sensor could be damaged if the motors chainring side makes contact with the bicycle frame and now provides spacers. This makes some sense. What are your thoughts on this?
I do a lot of muddy off-road and uphill cycling. There may be some places where I'd rather walk uphill on my bike, but I really enjoy the assist. The mudguard can seriously extend the life of the chain, since I fitted it I hardly have to clean the chain at all. I think the 350w model is plenty powerful enough. I tried it with a 52 sprocket and I could ride it continuously on flat roads at 45 km/h (with this wide off road tire). Since I prefer to use it off road I fitted it with a 42 sprocket. The manufacturer has made a few minor modifications already (mine is over four years old) and if you get a one year warranty you don't have to worry so much. Still, it's ok if you know how to install and repair it.
Be careful not to hit the pedal while riding, unfortunately I've hit it a few times on protruding roots and rocks and that's probably why it broke sooner.
The spacer is a really good idea in case the sprocket touches the frame, luckily I have enough clearance.
This torque sensor solution is incredibly comfortable, it doesn't take anything away from the pleasure of cycling but it does make climbing hills easier. Unfortunately there aren't many options to choose from on the market.
What did you get after ? I just installed my TSDZ2 and I got this creaking straight away.
If you didn't get anything I would suggest a rear gear hub motor but you must use a torque arm either side.
Also, forget about the 250 watt "law" all the big ebike motor manufacturers run their bikes well over 250 watts and closer to 1 Kw at the peaks or even more, the most important thing is the 15.5 Mph limit. No one cares about power, it's the speed cut off that's important. You can set this speed limit yourself.
I'm trying to compare my 2013 Gen I 50 Nm Bosch motor to this TSDZ2 at 52v and while it's nice not to have the speed limit I think the Bosch is way more powerful so going to try the Bosch again tomorrow on the same hill and see if I notice the difference but I think the torque rating of this TSDZ2 is nonsense.
hello I have an engine problem on my tsdz2B, the pressure contact is not made.could this be from the same part?
Hello, how do you mean? A little help to identify the problems: th-cam.com/video/6guf_4u6d1I/w-d-xo.html
Ciao, molto interessante il tuo video. Ho pure io questo motore. Ma dopo quanto tempo hai dovuto fare questo intervento?
Ciao, dopo 8000 km di guida dura. Spero che il Deepl si traduca bene dall'inglese. :)
Hello! I have a full suspension bike, an old bergamont evolv. At minute 2:16 it is correct that I see that you have found the system to fix the engine? thanks for the video!
Hello, since I couldn't use the original mounting bracket because of the rear swing arm, I created this solution. Even so, sometimes the big fixing nut comes loose, so I marked its position with a marker pen. I also use a threadlocker on the lock nut and screws. So it's a bit tricky to mount the engine on a bike with full suspension, but I really like full suspension bikes because I mostly ride on unpaved roads. It is also important to note that the TSDZ2 can be mounted in a bottom bracket (innenlager) up to 73 mm wide.
The motor also comes in two other versions to fit bottom brackets of up to 100mm and 120mm
Man is it even worth getting TSDZ2? I keep reading about peoples' units failing after a handful of weeks or months
Surprisingly, since my last repair, the replacement of the torque sensor, I have done 3,500 km without a problem. Honestly, it's a little surprising. 😃 Bosch, Brose, Yamaha are certainly more reliable, but they can only be installed in a special frame, they are much more expensive and it is almost impossible to repair them at home. The TSDZ2 is easy to repair, cheap parts are available, and if you don't torture it, it can last a long time. The torque sensor works as wonderfully as Bosch, Brose or Yamaha. It is true, the TSDZ2 is not for those with strong legs, and it is easily damaged if you hit the pedal or the crank. That's it.
I have this really loud whining sound when only the motor is on (throttle or pedal) but no wining sounds when the motor is off and pedalling. I wonder if you have a video or know if you had a whining sound only when the motor was on and turning by throttle or pedalling? as you only show when you push it just a little i cant tell if its the same problem.
Perhaps wear on the plastic gear on the other side, or a bearing or freewheel in the gear, or a bearing on the motor shaft, could be causing the whining sound. You should check the motor and blue plastic gear and bearings too. There is a video from the motor side of the drive:
th-cam.com/video/6guf_4u6d1I/w-d-xo.html
@Mc Elec - At 1:36 what kind of tool do you use to pop the circlip off? I tried using a Park Tool SPA-2 pin spanner, but the pins on the tool are too large.
I am ordering this tool: ```Knipex External Right Angle Snap Ring Pliers 90 Degree 1.8mm Tip Circlip Plier``` I think this should be the right size, I can post later with results.
At home I have a cheap, universal tool. It's not a perfect tool, but suitable for larger circlips.
www.amazon.com/Combination-Universal-Internal-External-Straight/dp/B07NP2FFMB
At workplace I have a professional Wurth set.
eshop.wurth.co.uk/Product-categories/Circlip-pliers-set-type-A-B-C-D/31086022080204.cyid/3108.cgid/en/GB/GBP/
potete indicarmi dove posso comprare chiave per ghiera movimento centrale active torque
È questo che intendevi?
ebikestuff.eu/en/spare-parts/175-tsdz2-locking-nut-tool.html
Far less hassle with a rear gear hub motor and no resistance pedalling when the power is off unlike a crank drive.
wow what did you use for the close up of the cracks a microscope ?
I have a Mustool MT315 microscope. It's a great help because I also repair logic boards.
@@mcelec7603 brilliant !!
I need expert opinion. Is there somehow a way with physical alterations to install sensor to bbshd, it will be connected to different controller. They are almost same shape afterall
Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with bbshd, but the TSDZ2 torque sensor is a pretty overcomplicated thing, I think.