Hi, Kriz, and thanks for the acknowledgement with the link to my Backpacking Light thread. And thanks also for the warning that this is a hack that neither canister nor stove manufacturers would approve. That said, I have tested with both BRS-3000T and JetBoil set-ups on my deck at 75°F ambient, utilizing the copper strips and full insulating jackets around the canisters, which is really a worst-case scenario. After running at full throttle for 30 minutes in this condition the canisters were getting pretty warm, but still under the 122°F (50°C) "safe" level as mandated by DoT. I was of course monitoring every second of those burns with 2 thermometers and also doing the "touch test" on the canister tops. Bottom line, used as intended - IN COLD WEATHER - this is a safe setup, but as usual there's no accounting for the ingenuity and creativity of a few idiots "out there." I would also note that for more extreme conditions the use of a Velcro strap, insulated from the copper strip with a piece of sheet silicone, can be cinched down very tightly, which provides more contact between the copper strip and the canister, and a closed-cell foam or Neoprene cozy will retain more heat in the canister. By this method it is possible to run the stove normally with straight N-butane down to at least -5°F, which I have done, and have done so on camping trips down to 0°F. Of course, at such temperatures with N-butane the canister must be warmed up a bit just to get it started, but once running it will go at 'full tilt' until all fuel is exhausted.
Great idea! Just got back from a -10 deg hike and had to stick a hand warmer under my canister so it would function. This looks much more better though.
It is so insanely easy to use a Moulder Strip and increase performance so much that I'm surprised people aren't selling "kits". With silicone ring and copper strip, plus instructions/video link they would move with some marketing accumein. Don't tell anyone, but I worked for a major petro company for years in the gas liquids division, i.e. propane, butane, HandHill-tane......Know Your Gases 101. There is no one fuel that can work across a massive range of temps. Mfgrs. don't see a profit margin in offering "cold weather" cans. And that is why the Moulder Strip is such genius. Like most great things, keeping it simple goes in hand with greatness. Thank you Bob!
Indeed! 👍👍 I’m sure liability keeps people away from selling little kits. Using the bracelet, it’s nothing in parts...yes, super simple. I did see a commercial magnetic version once in a photo online - vaporware...would have been fun to play with. There’s something about the soft copper strip that just makes me smile. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
Thanks Bill. I'm not a gas expert by any means but early on in my experiments with this concept it dawned upon me how all these special "winter mix" concoctions are such a marketing boondoggle. Once the propane burns off, you're back to the basic vapor temp problem.
Thanks Eric! Another thing that helps is to put the canister in a tray of liquid water. The water, if liquid, is always above the boiling point of the butane.
Perfect, going to give this a try soon at Mt Rainier for some winter camping. I need to pick up some copper, but think it should work work a 8oz MSR fuel can and the Pocket Rocket 2.
I just acquired a 4"x5" sheet of .025” thick copper. Before I go making any cuts, I was hoping I could consult your experience. My idea is to cut essentially an upside-down "T", one inch wide (with rounded corners to prevent tearing and snags). I am taking some inspiration from the Korean product you mention in the comments. I am making this to accommodate the SOTO Amicus on a 250g tank, so I am making the T 5" high and 4" wide. The bottom "arms" of the inverted T will wrap around a section of the canister's circumference. Neodymium magnets will be attached with duct tape to the very corners of the arms (to the outside of the copper). Hopefully, these furthest corners of the copper will not get hot enough to melt the duct tape, and the arms of the T will provide adequate contact with the canister. Hopefully, this design will avoid using any bands. It will be somewhat heavier perhaps, but I have all this copper to work with so I might as well try this design. Do you foresee any problems with this design? I appreciate your input.
It does not take much - a simple strip is all that is needed. Round edges are good. I have seen people attach it with a velcro strap and a small insulator to keep it from melting. The "T" is not necessary unless part of some kind of self attaching a magnetic design. The magnets could maybe be attached with silicone adhesive - that won't melt and is usually good at holding things to smooth surfaces.
@@KrizAkoni You are right! I totally forgot about silicone adhesive - it can be quite tenacious! I think I will do that and keep the duct tape in reserve in case it falls off. My goal is to eliminate fiddle factor as much as possible.
@@KrizAkoni on second thought, I am going to make a simple strip by cutting my sheet on the diagonal in order to maximize length. I think it will be important for the strip to reach the bottom of the canister, so the heat can reach the unvaporized fuel, rather than just the top of the can. Thanks for your suggestions.
I never use my canister stove backpacking and always take an alcohol stove which I never have problems with regardless of temperature. This is probably the coolest and most original solution to a canisters terrible cold weather performance.
Credit goes to Bob Moulder over at Backpacking light for maturing this idea. I'm mostly alcohol these days too, but when my water turns hard and the amount of fuel goes way up to both melt and boil, I find gas much more reliable (once I got a consistent way to keep it vaporizing). Thanks for commenting and watching!
Wish I would have thought about this back in October when I was on the North Slope of Alaska caribou hunting. Temperatures were around 20-30 at night and our stoves were taking much longer to boil water.
This is exactly the same idea as wrapping a couple turns of 1/8" single strand copper wire around the canister, with both free ends poked into the stove's flame. Further, a windscreen which goes 3/4 or more around the circumference of the pot creates a warm microclimate for the canister top stove to operate in. Canisters are only rated by USDOT for sub 130F operation, peeps. Don't get way too hot and blow yourself up.
With due respect, it is not the same. You need good contact between copper and canister and this is not achieved with wire, at least certainly not as efficiently and effectively. I realize that the strip is a simple twist on the heat shunt idea that has been around a long time, but it offers distinct advantages over other approaches to the problem. The strip will permit running straight butane at well below Zero Farenheit... try that with wire and it will not work.
It gets nowhere that hot. Copper melts at 1983F and is in the flame - it does not melt. **This is only to be used when it is very cold out and the fuel won't vaporize. Long before anything melts, the canister could become too hot, over-pressurize, and burst if it is warm outside.
I would also try inverted/liquid feed if your stove has a preheat tube, with the canister inverted, you can easily pour a spoon of warm water onto the bottom of the can to warm it just enough
Thanks! I don’t even think about it anymore, it’s standard ops in cold weather for me. Just heed the caution that it is a hack and comes with potential risks if not monitored or abused. 🤓
Thanks! This is the core of my winter cook set. Once I need to melt ice, the alcohol goes away. I should really do a review of my winter setup. It's based on an Olicamp XTS with an Optimus clip on windshield, the BRS-3000, and this copper "moulder strip". It all fits inside the pot.
Great video...solid copper 1/8" rod wrapped in asbestos would be perfect for sub zero. They don't tell you about this when saying that pound for pound butane is best for back packing.
Very good video. I never thought of this. I am blind and cannot see details. As of the wire with insulation and plastic or without? How many times the wire wraps around the canister? What gauge wire do you use? Thank you so much for sharing. God bless you.
@Taino - thank you and thank you for commenting. I did not use wire. Instead I used a flat piece of copper metal roof flashing that is one inch wide and four and three quarter inches tall. It is soft enough and can be easily molded to fit vertically against the side of a canister and held in place with a silicone wrist bracelet wrapped around the base of the canister. Only the bracelet is wrapped around the canister. The metal strip is held in place behind it. The long copper strip that is now sticking up is then gently bent over so it touches the flame underneath the pot. It does not take much heat to vaporize the fuel.
Just a quick question though. The cannisters usually say on them to now allow them to be above 50C (~120F). Have you ever noticed the cannister get too warm for comfort or has this always been okay for you? I only ask as it is such a simple yet genius idea and I'm 100% wanting to do it but just want to make sure it's a safe thing to do.
My experience has been the canister stays quite cold / cool if it is cold enough outside to warrant using it. I would not leave one unattended in use and do periodically check to see how warm it gets…which is not very. That being said, the manufacturer would surely frown on this application.
Am I mistaken or does this demonstrate why you don't want to refill with straight butane? This is why they use a butane propane blend. It would still be a neat idea to improve the efficiency but I would still not refill with straight butane.
You are mostly correct. However, even the good winter blends cheeze out in cold weather, especially once the higher pressure fuel vaporizes, leaving the weak stuff at the bottom. Thanks for watching and commenting! :)
Thanks for the idea but I need help! I implemented the advice and the canister heated up correctly with an external temperature of 53'F (12'C), but the flame was never regular and strong. To burn well I had to continually shake the cylinder (refilled at home with a butane / propane mix from a larger cylinder). Can you tell me if I am wrong and what I have to do? Thanks a lot!
Hey man I was wondering if there is any special reason why you used copper? I wanted to give this a try, considering the cold temps we've been having, so I went to the hardware store up here next to where I'm currently working and well to my amazement they didn't have any copper. At work I have tons of aluminum as well as just plain old steel...was wondering if you thought an aluminum strip would work?seems like its just as light as the copper and should also be a decent heat conductor. And if I can just come up with a silicone band as well....I see them literally everywhere until I am looking for one, then they are no where to be found. That's my luck haha!
There are some options and explanations in the thread in the links I posted. Aluminum will work, but not as well, copper conducts heat much better. The aluminum also melts at a low temp and burns off after a few uses in the flame. Some use a piece of soft copper tubing hammered flat. If you can't find a silicone band, a velcro strip and slice of carbon felt works too.
KrizAkoni yeah I am checking out those links now. Thanks for sharing those. I wanted to get right to making one of these but I'll probably just wait till I get back home in a few days. I'm pretty sure I have some old copper flashing laying around somewhere.
When actually camping outside, any heat in the canister, assuming you can store it in a warm place, dissipates very quickly even with a cozy. When the gas is released, the canister cools rapidly to well below ambient.
Those work very well, I have one. For hiking though, I don't like carrying the extra weight. Those cylinders weigh 15 ounces empty and are huge. Butane also provides 12% more energy than propane.
Hi, Kriz, and thanks for the acknowledgement with the link to my Backpacking Light thread.
And thanks also for the warning that this is a hack that neither canister nor stove manufacturers would approve. That said, I have tested with both BRS-3000T and JetBoil set-ups on my deck at 75°F ambient, utilizing the copper strips and full insulating jackets around the canisters, which is really a worst-case scenario. After running at full throttle for 30 minutes in this condition the canisters were getting pretty warm, but still under the 122°F (50°C) "safe" level as mandated by DoT. I was of course monitoring every second of those burns with 2 thermometers and also doing the "touch test" on the canister tops. Bottom line, used as intended - IN COLD WEATHER - this is a safe setup, but as usual there's no accounting for the ingenuity and creativity of a few idiots "out there."
I would also note that for more extreme conditions the use of a Velcro strap, insulated from the copper strip with a piece of sheet silicone, can be cinched down very tightly, which provides more contact between the copper strip and the canister, and a closed-cell foam or Neoprene cozy will retain more heat in the canister. By this method it is possible to run the stove normally with straight N-butane down to at least -5°F, which I have done, and have done so on camping trips down to 0°F. Of course, at such temperatures with N-butane the canister must be warmed up a bit just to get it started, but once running it will go at 'full tilt' until all fuel is exhausted.
Great idea! Just got back from a -10 deg hike and had to stick a hand warmer under my canister so it would function. This looks much more better though.
Thanks for commenting Rex! -10, that's pretty chilly. :)
It is so insanely easy to use a Moulder Strip and increase performance so much that I'm surprised people aren't selling "kits". With silicone ring and copper strip, plus instructions/video link they would move with some marketing accumein. Don't tell anyone, but I worked for a major petro company for years in the gas liquids division, i.e. propane, butane, HandHill-tane......Know Your Gases 101. There is no one fuel that can work across a massive range of temps. Mfgrs. don't see a profit margin in offering "cold weather" cans. And that is why the Moulder Strip is such genius. Like most great things, keeping it simple goes in hand with greatness. Thank you Bob!
Indeed! 👍👍 I’m sure liability keeps people away from selling little kits. Using the bracelet, it’s nothing in parts...yes, super simple. I did see a commercial magnetic version once in a photo online - vaporware...would have been fun to play with. There’s something about the soft copper strip that just makes me smile. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
Thanks Bill. I'm not a gas expert by any means but early on in my experiments with this concept it dawned upon me how all these special "winter mix" concoctions are such a marketing boondoggle. Once the propane burns off, you're back to the basic vapor temp problem.
global.rakuten.com/en/store/twintrade/item/sp001/
there you go. and it's a magnet too so easy to swap around.
Perfect solution. My dad will be surprised by your hack. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting! This continues to be my normal winter setup. :)
This is exactly what i have been looking for. Thank you for such an easy solution.
You’re welcome!
Great idea. Thanks. I used to just take a few drop of hot water and splash them on the canister.
Even cold water, as long as it is liquid works well too. Thanks for stopping by and commenting!
Really cool idea. I just had to run my stove inside a bear box just to make a tepid cup of joe. This is an elegant solution.
Thanks Eric! Another thing that helps is to put the canister in a tray of liquid water. The water, if liquid, is always above the boiling point of the butane.
Perfect, going to give this a try soon at Mt Rainier for some winter camping. I need to pick up some copper, but think it should work work a 8oz MSR fuel can and the Pocket Rocket 2.
Super easy and works really well!
I just acquired a 4"x5" sheet of .025” thick copper. Before I go making any cuts, I was hoping I could consult your experience. My idea is to cut essentially an upside-down "T", one inch wide (with rounded corners to prevent tearing and snags). I am taking some inspiration from the Korean product you mention in the comments.
I am making this to accommodate the SOTO Amicus on a 250g tank, so I am making the T 5" high and 4" wide.
The bottom "arms" of the inverted T will wrap around a section of the canister's circumference. Neodymium magnets will be attached with duct tape to the very corners of the arms (to the outside of the copper). Hopefully, these furthest corners of the copper will not get hot enough to melt the duct tape, and the arms of the T will provide adequate contact with the canister. Hopefully, this design will avoid using any bands. It will be somewhat heavier perhaps, but I have all this copper to work with so I might as well try this design. Do you foresee any problems with this design? I appreciate your input.
I'm also considering attaching the magnets via teflon tape or solder. That would change the design too.
It does not take much - a simple strip is all that is needed. Round edges are good. I have seen people attach it with a velcro strap and a small insulator to keep it from melting. The "T" is not necessary unless part of some kind of self attaching a magnetic design. The magnets could maybe be attached with silicone adhesive - that won't melt and is usually good at holding things to smooth surfaces.
@@KrizAkoni You are right! I totally forgot about silicone adhesive - it can be quite tenacious! I think I will do that and keep the duct tape in reserve in case it falls off. My goal is to eliminate fiddle factor as much as possible.
@@KrizAkoni on second thought, I am going to make a simple strip by cutting my sheet on the diagonal in order to maximize length. I think it will be important for the strip to reach the bottom of the canister, so the heat can reach the unvaporized fuel, rather than just the top of the can. Thanks for your suggestions.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
I never use my canister stove backpacking and always take an alcohol stove which I never have problems with regardless of temperature. This is probably the coolest and most original solution to a canisters terrible cold weather performance.
Credit goes to Bob Moulder over at Backpacking light for maturing this idea. I'm mostly alcohol these days too, but when my water turns hard and the amount of fuel goes way up to both melt and boil, I find gas much more reliable (once I got a consistent way to keep it vaporizing). Thanks for commenting and watching!
Wish I would have thought about this back in October when I was on the North Slope of Alaska caribou hunting. Temperatures were around 20-30 at night and our stoves were taking much longer to boil water.
Glad you found it helpful. I've made the strip a part of my normal kit, just in case. :) Thanks for watching!
Great winter hack for butane canister stoves. Thanks for posting.
This is exactly the same idea as wrapping a couple turns of 1/8" single strand copper wire around the canister, with both free ends poked into the stove's flame. Further, a windscreen which goes 3/4 or more around the circumference of the pot creates a warm microclimate for the canister top stove to operate in. Canisters are only rated by USDOT for sub 130F operation, peeps. Don't get way too hot and blow yourself up.
Yes, Yes, and Definitely Yes! Lots of ways to get heat back down to the canister. Thanks for stopping by and commenting! 🤓
With due respect, it is not the same. You need good contact between copper and canister and this is not achieved with wire, at least certainly not as efficiently and effectively. I realize that the strip is a simple twist on the heat shunt idea that has been around a long time, but it offers distinct advantages over other approaches to the problem. The strip will permit running straight butane at well below Zero Farenheit... try that with wire and it will not work.
If it get's too hot will melt the silicone long before steel. Silicone is ~800 F and steel is 2500F
It gets nowhere that hot. Copper melts at 1983F and is in the flame - it does not melt. **This is only to be used when it is very cold out and the fuel won't vaporize. Long before anything melts, the canister could become too hot, over-pressurize, and burst if it is warm outside.
I would also try inverted/liquid feed if your stove has a preheat tube, with the canister inverted, you can easily pour a spoon of warm water onto the bottom of the can to warm it just enough
I love my inverted feed Jetboil, but I might try this trick on my regular Jetboil when I'm going solo.
Well I’m definitely doing this. That’s a genius hack, man! Great vid and I appreciate the info!!!
Thanks! I don’t even think about it anymore, it’s standard ops in cold weather for me. Just heed the caution that it is a hack and comes with potential risks if not monitored or abused. 🤓
Awesome little trick, thanks for showing it to us!
Wrap your copper in the middle section with carbon felt or fiberglass and the canister should heat up faster, especially in the wind.
Indeed it would! I sometimes use carbon felt as windscreen, I have a wad of it. Thanks for commenting! 😎
That looks like a great trick. I'm definitely going to have to try this out. Thanks for sharing this.
Very surreal with them clocks.
;))
Smart.
Thank you Romin!
This is a great idea. I've just stated looking up idea for my venture into winter backpacking this upcoming season. Awesome share bud.
Thanks! This is the core of my winter cook set. Once I need to melt ice, the alcohol goes away. I should really do a review of my winter setup. It's based on an Olicamp XTS with an Optimus clip on windshield, the BRS-3000, and this copper "moulder strip". It all fits inside the pot.
Great video...solid copper 1/8" rod wrapped in asbestos would be perfect for sub zero. They don't tell you about this when saying that pound for pound butane is best for back packing.
I like butane. ❤️ Thanks for commenting! 😎
Excellent idea!
Now there's a thinker. you can also throw a hothand hand warmer under your bottle to.
Hand warmer is a good idea too! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very cool hack! I’ll give this a try. Thanks!
It's pretty much my go-to winter setup now...
Thermal spring steel thermal switch to open & close so canister can’t get too hot
is that music or the coolest wind chime ever made?
Thanks! That would be a big wind chime over my head. :)
Nice video, bud, thanks for telling me about it!
Thanks!
And I will try this when I get 37.6 steps away from the summit of Mount Everest . Thank you.
Thanks for commenting Steve! 🤓
Great idea…. And thank you for sharing !
You’re welcome! This is probably the most important and most used gear hack in my quiver.
Where should I store multiple canisters of butane for a countertop butane one burner stove, in Michigan.
I store mine on a basement shelf. I’d think anywhere would be just fine.
Very good video. I never thought of this. I am blind and cannot see details. As of the wire with insulation and plastic or without? How many times the wire wraps around the canister? What gauge wire do you use? Thank you so much for sharing. God bless you.
@Taino - thank you and thank you for commenting. I did not use wire. Instead I used a flat piece of copper metal roof flashing that is one inch wide and four and three quarter inches tall. It is soft enough and can be easily molded to fit vertically against the side of a canister and held in place with a silicone wrist bracelet wrapped around the base of the canister. Only the bracelet is wrapped around the canister. The metal strip is held in place behind it. The long copper strip that is now sticking up is then gently bent over so it touches the flame underneath the pot. It does not take much heat to vaporize the fuel.
Just a quick question though. The cannisters usually say on them to now allow them to be above 50C (~120F). Have you ever noticed the cannister get too warm for comfort or has this always been okay for you? I only ask as it is such a simple yet genius idea and I'm 100% wanting to do it but just want to make sure it's a safe thing to do.
My experience has been the canister stays quite cold / cool if it is cold enough outside to warrant using it. I would not leave one unattended in use and do periodically check to see how warm it gets…which is not very. That being said, the manufacturer would surely frown on this application.
@@KrizAkoni Okay! Brilliant, Thank you!
Dam your ingenious thanks from New Zealand.
Thanks! This is my #1 favorite hack. Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 🤓
Am I mistaken or does this demonstrate why you don't want to refill with straight butane? This is why they use a butane propane blend. It would still be a neat idea to improve the efficiency but I would still not refill with straight butane.
You are mostly correct. However, even the good winter blends cheeze out in cold weather, especially once the higher pressure fuel vaporizes, leaving the weak stuff at the bottom. Thanks for watching and commenting! :)
the lance armstrong bracelets.
Modern day derivatives… 🤓
@@KrizAkoni can you essentially use a coleman 2 burner to keep itself warm and cook by putting the tank on the other burner? lol.
Great tip mate
One of my favorites! Glad you liked it, thanks for stopping by and commenting!
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing.
It's my favorite hack and a permanent part of my winter setup now. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Thanks for the idea but I need help! I implemented the advice and the canister heated up correctly with an external temperature of 53'F (12'C), but the flame was never regular and strong. To burn well I had to continually shake the cylinder (refilled at home with a butane / propane mix from a larger cylinder). Can you tell me if I am wrong and what I have to do? Thanks a lot!
Sounds like you need to bend the strip a little more into the flame.
Did the hack provide enough power in the flame to boil water?
It provides full power.
And the thing that sucks is that it only works with the big canisters but I think you get the idea.
It almost looks like you can cut half of it off and use it with smaller canisters?
Good video. Kovea makes something just like this
Thanks, and thanks for watching!! Please post to link to it here if you run across it again. :)
White gas works better in cold
Hey man I was wondering if there is any special reason why you used copper? I wanted to give this a try, considering the cold temps we've been having, so I went to the hardware store up here next to where I'm currently working and well to my amazement they didn't have any copper. At work I have tons of aluminum as well as just plain old steel...was wondering if you thought an aluminum strip would work?seems like its just as light as the copper and should also be a decent heat conductor. And if I can just come up with a silicone band as well....I see them literally everywhere until I am looking for one, then they are no where to be found. That's my luck haha!
There are some options and explanations in the thread in the links I posted. Aluminum will work, but not as well, copper conducts heat much better. The aluminum also melts at a low temp and burns off after a few uses in the flame. Some use a piece of soft copper tubing hammered flat. If you can't find a silicone band, a velcro strip and slice of carbon felt works too.
KrizAkoni yeah I am checking out those links now. Thanks for sharing those. I wanted to get right to making one of these but I'll probably just wait till I get back home in a few days. I'm pretty sure I have some old copper flashing laying around somewhere.
Smell N Roses aluminium is not that great a heat conductor compared to copper.
i see some thermo cozy pouches are sold to keep canister in them .. are they working ?
They do not, the canister cools from the inside when the liquid evaporates…like an air conditioner. Cozy makes it worse.
@@KrizAkoni hmm.. but isn't it protecting it from freezing in a first place?
When actually camping outside, any heat in the canister, assuming you can store it in a warm place, dissipates very quickly even with a cozy. When the gas is released, the canister cools rapidly to well below ambient.
@@KrizAkoni ok, trangia then
:)
Good hack, thanks.
Thanks Quinn! So many places, so many photos. It all goes by so fast. 🤓
Cool trick, Thanks
Glad you liked it. I enjoy your channel, keep up the great posts. :)
Thank you. I will try to get caught up on some of your videos.
What is the length of your coppper? THis looks perfect sized for 8oz canister.
This is 5" long for the 4oz canister. It will also work on the 8oz canister.
I wonder if one could apply this principle to make a turbo-charged alcohol stove. Or would that be terribly dangerous?
Alcohol stoves typically get hot and boil the alcohol off already, I'm not sure it would be much value.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for stopping by and commenting. Almost time to break the winter setup back out again. :)
Nice. Thank you.
You’re Welcome
I thought about that making a heat sink kind of like that. Just wondered.
great hack
It was used extensively on my hike this weekend...super cold! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Fantastic!
Screw on propane adapter for camping stoves
Those work very well, I have one. For hiking though, I don't like carrying the extra weight. Those cylinders weigh 15 ounces empty and are huge. Butane also provides 12% more energy than propane.
Brilliant
Thanks so much! 🤓
Does this work for 200 g canisters as well?
Yes, it does. Once it starts up it does not take much to stay going.
I was wondering, how cold does this hack work. I was hopeing down to zero
I’ve heard people using it around -10 with no issues. Once it gets started it powers up quick. Thanks for watching and commenting!
KrizAkoni thanks for the reply I looked over your channel and it appears you have a lot of content I need. I now am a subscriber.
Thanks for subscribing! :)