Mr Wadsworth I would like to thank both you, and Nate for all the effort that has gone into your channel over the years. I began watching your channel in high school while taking a carpentry class and used it as an after work school of sorts when I got my first job framing. From the bottom of my heart thank you both so much. May good fortune and great weather follow the Wadsworth family for all of their days.
I love building cabinets. Nice to see all the gables are plywood and not pressboard. I always talked clients into custom because all the major producers here use pressboard, and 10-20% of the cabinets end up with edges and corners blown out of them before they're even delivered.
My buddy is a individual one man custom cabinet maker and everything he does is 3/4 oak,ash top grade materials. He recently moved back to his old stomping grounds where he and his father built and installed their cabinets and he’s gone back to folks that their cabinets were installed 20 years ago and he says they look like new. He takes allot of pride in his work! Have a fantastic day
The only place I've found MDF to be a reasonable replacement for solid/plywood in cabinet making is in the raised panel for a paint-grade cabinet door. It's not ideal IMO but can help with more budget-oriented projects. With most lowers being drawer bases these days the amount of wear and tear, water, etc on the panels is reduced. Though I still suggest using a solid panel for the sink bases.
I'm a cabinet maker and installer of 16+ years. I usually install the uppers first but will admit that cabinet jack is genius and will probably build one myself. I'm surprised to see plywood drawer boxes and side mount guides. No dovetails? no soft close? This is pretty standard in my area (eastern oregon). In all great work by these guys! Its always interesting to see how others do it. Thanks for all the great video!! I've been watching since episode #1
In all building, once you have an understanding of the steps, from concrete to cabinets, you realize the importance of attention to detail in the beginning affects the difficulty/ easiness of the next step. If the Framers cared about installing the trim, the trim work would be easier and better.
of all the things I've built, installed and rehabbed in my life, installing kitchen cabinets and trimming out a kitchen is right up there with being the most fun and challenging.
In 40 years of carpentry, probably several hundred kitchens, I’ve never installed base cabinets first. For a couple reasons, 1) way too easy to damage the base cabinets while working above them either by tool belts, belt buckles, dropping a drill or driver or level ( because you’re working above and gravity does happen), 2) it’s hard on the back to be leaning over and pushing up on a larger unit. Layout isn’t anymore difficult, but the chance of the problems described above is way less imho
I've been installing kitchens for a shorter time than you but I do uppers first as well. I find it faster and it's much easier on the body and the products.
I’ve been a cabinet installer for 16 years; both factory and custom. I have installed them both ways. If I’m by myself, I install the bases first. It saves my back. You need half sheet of plywood for your temporary countertop. If you forget the plywood then set the tops first. I do like his upper jack box he has.
As a lifelong cabinet man, I find there is still new stuff to be discovered and learned. Just when you think you have seen it all, something new comes along. Like that jacking system which is stackable. Great idea. I hope they get a patent on that. Everybody will have their favorite way to work and I always installed my base cabinets first. Then cover them with cardboard or blankets to protect them. I like having a ready made work bench. But everybody will have a different opinion and that's OK. Variety is the spice of life. Whatever works best for you is the best way to go.
As a cabinet guy I was hoping for a crown molding or top trim to be place on the tops of the uppers. It may have been to in the weeds but I would've also loved an explanation on faceframe vs frameless boxes, inset vs full overlay vs partial overlay, and some details on the drawer box construction, and hardware options.
You could actually make a 18 x 16 box 4' long that just sits across the leveled lower cabinets and keeps everything parallel with the leveled lowers, no jacking required no secondary leveling required. If you make a leveling base you don't even need to level individual cabinets... Just something to think about... IKEA has a steel bar that you level that connects all the cabinets to it is another idea.
I remember dad's mate would churn out his own cabinetry in his garage at night after building the houses during the day. That guy (now long gone) did everything himself and did it well. The jack is better than me holding the cabinet in place while dad fixes them.
The jack is a pretty neat idea. I wish I was thinking about it when I installed our 4x above-our-car's-hood-reaching garage cabinets. They were around 100 pounds each. I installed a temporary 2x4 under them (and ended up with holes later to be filled), but even lifting them onto the 2x4 was a quite challenge.
When you said if you don't make mistakes you don't get much done do you. That really struck home for me. As an equipment operator, I've been told if you never break down or break a part, you aren't working hard enough.
I love how EC uses sponsorships to make this whole endeavor profitable for him, but also uses his army of local contractors to put it all together. Much respect, love the series.
Offsite in this day and age is the best solution. Fella comes in, takes a LiDar "sketch" of the room, and later shows up with cabinetry/furniture that fits down to the mm. Doesn't get better than this.
9:13 - If I may? That corner cabinet door handle's back screw head should be inset into the door to make the wood surface smooth (without the screw head protruding). My cabinets have a gouge in them from hundreds of times that round screw head has been dragged across the adjacent drawer face (before I bought the house and inset the screw head).
Great video, I use to do this work in my early 20s, brings back alot on memories. I left the field as a journeyman level, sometimes I wish I was still doing it.
I worked as a real estate agent for a while, and in my neck of the woods there are a lot of flippers. And the number one way to tell if the flipper did a good job is to look at the kitchen cabinets. If the doors on the cabinets are hung well, with consistent reveals, and plumb and level, then 9 1/2 times out of 10, the whole project will have been done well. But if the kitchen cabinets look terrible, everything else in the house will have been done as quickly and cheaply as possible.
Installing upper or lower first mainly personal preference. The hardware and cabinet is 1990 lol, doors are the only update. Softclose hinges and softclose steel powder coated draws, plastic adjustable feet will save your cabinet from floods. I mainly use laser level these days and no pencil marks lol Kitchen install have change since I started in 1989, but the work mentality is still the same. Nice kitchen thou. Thank you.
When putting on the cabinet knobs, I would spin them on just shy of making contact, then tighten them up from the inside. Spinning tight by hand cuts into the finish on the face.
Loved this one. Takes me back to my cabinet installing days! Great little tool, that "upper jack". Nicely done, fellas! Beautiful kitchen. And a plumb-bob off the light to center?! Come on, excellent attention to details!
Have you ever tried using french cleats to hang cabinets with? The video I watched allows you to set the french cleats level on the wall and then level on the cabinets. Then all you have to do is hang the cabinets on the french cleats. They allow you to move the cabinets side to side a little to make small adjustments and when you get them exactly lined up you just run a screw or two through one of the french cleats to make certain no one accidentally lifts them up or an earthquake bounces them off. But if they need to be removed for some reason you can just remove the screws into the french cleat and another attached cabinet and then lift it up a little bit and pull it off.
@@kevindesilva4588 They would cause you to lose a couple inches of depth if you did not make you cabinets a couple of inches deeper to make up for it. Making the outer sides two inches deeper is easy and cabinets that stick two inches further out would be insignificant to the average person. A french Cleat would be very easy to hold up to a wall and level while attaching it. Then all you would have to do is lift the cabinets up and hang them on the cleats, the french cleats would hold them against the wall while other cabinets are put into place and hold them all up while you fasten all of the cabinets together, if more than one, nudge the cabinets sideways so the are exactly lined up, then run one or two screws through the cleats per cabinet to anchor them. The alternative is lifting the cabinet against the wall and manually holding it there while getting it level and in the perfect position and then making certain that you get the screws (or nails) driven through and into a stud to secure it to a wall. Or building an adjustable brace that would bridge the gap between the floor and the cabinet or the gap between the lower cabinet and the upper cabinet to hold it in place while being adjusted, leveled, and secured. Sounds like an insignificant amount of extra work and material for a greater benefit. If the cabinets have to be removed for some reason in the future, like getting into the wall behind them, then all you have to do is remove one or two screws per cabinet and lift them up and inch and pull them out, then when you finish you can hang them back on the french cleats and put the screws back in.
My dad used to tell me "If you don't make any mistakes it means you're not doing anything." Of course by that criterion there are days when I'm exceedingly busy, lol.
Remind me of my favorite Proverbs in chapter 14 when working: "Where there are no oxen, the manger is clean, but abundant crops come by the strength of the ox." and "In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty."
its always satisfying to watch these videos, i myself am a journeyman carpenter with local 431 in Pennsylvania and i have some commercial cabinetry installation experience but these guys really know everything from a to z ,great job gentlemen, JOB WELL DONE!!
I bought the full jig and will never look back and say it was a bad alignment tool to buy. Because when I drill now I am fast/accurate. End results are perfect every time.
They sound exactly like the cabinet company I worked for here in florida. It was such a privilege working there for the few years I did and learn the things I learned. I’m third generation door specialist but have had many different jobs along my path to figuring out I wanted to go into the family trade. I’ve done loads of new construction and retro work which gives you knowledge from both ends and has helped me TONS doing doors and even in my every day life. I’ve watched so many of your videos and love every minute of all of them. Knowledge really is power and goodness do you have an abundance of raw construction knowledge, some of which has helped me since watching your videos. Thank you for sharing
It depends on the hinge. Soft close on doors isn't super useful (though I do like them better than not), but on drawers, they're super useful because drawers tend to be pretty heavy loaded down with silverware and what-not.
I like your narration that states that sometimes you can get both production and good work. I've always told people that we do Good Work, Fast Work and Cheap Work - pick any two that you like.
We have been using the hardware jig for about a year now. It has easily paid for itself in accuracy and time saving. Going to have to make one of those jack in the box. I do believe your guys would benefit from a laser to install.
Thanks for posting this today, in the middle of my first custom cab job out of my garage shop. This was just what I needed to watch for some morning motivation!
I make 2 or 3 big mistakes everyday, and at least a dozen little ones; what will set you apart is being willing and able to address these issues as they pop up.
Excellent video as always. I'd just like to suggest to anyone learning from this video that you should get a small piece of hardwood when you are drilling out the door handles to hold behind the door. It'll really help any potential blowout. I know many hardware handles will cover it but many don't.
@@micarnxl purchase bessy cabinet clamps. Those clamps are so fast and easy to attach the face frame together. Also tripcheck your measurements and remember the face of the cabinet is wider then the back so don't forget to take that into account when doing math also don't forget about required minimal height if you have a microwave range hood combo
Love the hardwares jig! Few years ago actually started using one. Before made a jig for every install, not a big deal but eventually had a huge collection of them and hardly ever used them twice.
Cabinetmaking and installing was my only experience in the home building trade, started sweeping floors in a scrappy small 5 man shop, mostly building kitchens and bookcases for high end residences in downtown Chicago. Eventually they lost their install contractors who they had been working with, I got roped into doing installs, which I didn;t like, fighting traffic, parking, dealing with the security of high rise buildings, homeowners etc. A combination of not being properly trained for installs and not even being paid enough to buy my own personal tools I was not happy, then the economic turn down of 2006 happened and I was laid off for about a year and I found a job as apprentice Moldmaker/Toolmaker and its been good to me.
As I have taken on more advanced DIY work around my homes and rentals, I have come to appreciate the skills, knowledge and “soup-to-nuts” understanding of how both the art of design and the science of building must holistically integrate, within the scope of a complex wood-working project. Thank you for the process overview and insightful and wisdom-filled commentary.
If you have a tile backsplash that is going up just screw a two-by-four to the wall into the studs make sure it's level and do that and then it is very easy to do I am a cabinet installer myself
Not gonna lie, that heavy duty plumb-bob we saw hanging over the island about 7 minutes in makes me want to ask for an EC video about exactly vertical lines and the tools that accomplish them!
Speaking of drill/ drivers, I started out using them only for mounting cabinets to the wall. Everything else my dad and I used braces with hole saws for plumbing penetrations, yankee drills for hardware installation. This was early and mid 90’s. We’ve since got with the times but I got a lot of satisfaction using the old tools. Great video!
That cabinet pull jig is great. I bought one and it worked really well. The only problem I had was I decided to reuse the tape I was marking off the center lines. Well, one drawer I didn't tear off the line from the last cabinet and accidentally centered on the wrong like. So, other than me being an idiot, the jig worked perfectly. Luckily the mis-drilled hole was on a bottom cabinet so you never even notice it, which is why I still haven't fixed it. lol
I came across a bus driver once who reckoned that if you weren't having a couple of near misses a week you weren't trying hard enough to stick to schedule.
Mr. Wadsworth I appreciate your guidance especially with kitchen cabinets! I am in Los Angeles, and in late 2019 I hired a cabinet maker from La Quinada who was "just starting out with his business" and thought to hire him to help along his business. BIG MISTAKE. The end result? $27,000 lost on white oak cabinets, with two different types of varnish used. Of the many lessons I'll share just one: The guy did NOT use a jig to make hardware holes. When I asked him, his reply was "Oh I've been doing this for years, all I need is my measuring tape." Of course, some of the hardware handles are crooked. So people, MAKE SURE your contractor uses a jig for such detail. If they refuse, fire them and find another. Mr. Wadsworth was right about the only leverage being money.
Ohh gosh this is amazing....we just bought our first home.. it's a fixer upper... come do our cabinets lol 3 bathrooms and a full kitchen..lol we're going to be awhile doing them as newbies lol thanks for the videos
Heavy duty farm sink is great!"I put wall cabs in First, with a stretcher at 54" horizontal, to lay cabs onto.East Coast Finisher cabinetmaker-carpenter
Such a great channel. Always something to learn here. You ever notice it’s the little tricks and tips you you learn here? Those ones when you say, “well duh, that would’ve made my job alot easier!” 🤣
Here in the UK I fit the wall units first.We fit metal brackets to the wall, the cupboards have a metal bracket on them which sits over the top of the wall bracket (same principle as a French Cleat) and the brackets allow for about 1/4" of height adjustment , tighten and then also fix the bottom of the wallunits through the back panels and then the base units last. All set out via a self levelling Laser line. As they say "There's more than one way to skin a cat" . Enjoyed the video though and regards from England.
Thank you for this beautiful video, just what I needed right now. Loved the jack box and installation of lower cabinets first creating the lower work surface. Also the tool for installation of pulls. Please make a video about how you use these two tools. I love all your videos and I learn so much each time.
Wow! when I built the floor to ceiling cabinets in our kitchen remodel my first attempt I encountered the unforeseen issue of the diagonal height from corner to opposite corner coming into play when actually tipping the dang thing up to vertical, i had to remake it shorter just to be able to tip it up in place. I was immediately impressed with the beginning of this video and these guys having their tolerances down !
Everything looks great except for the tile on the left side of the upper cabinets. It should lineup cabinet and tile. I think it will look better then the tile passing the cabinet. 9:05.
This is the real home of the drill driver, I personally like the little bosch chuckless drivers for this, they are even better than the makita 7.6v drivers I used to use. I hate large tools for inside cabinet work.
The work that was done is exactly the way it should be and it was done with an economy of motion that's one of the things that can happen when the people on the ground have an intention to be productive and to do good work you don't have to pick one of the other sometimes you can get both. Well said, You can do both
I set some uppers in a utility room with a automotive floor jack and a 2x4 T-ee, not pretty but it got the job done. That little cabinet jack is one of those "why didn't I think of that?" moments.
Nice installation. I'm in Eugene. I've seen a couple of the places you've done. Great Work. I install bases first too and jack the uppers off a temp deck on the bases. I use Fastcap's short jacks "Little Hand" 3rd hand jacks. They work awesome. Two of them and you can place an upper PERFECTLY. I also use my PLS 4 laser with a level line to set bases instead of levels. My bases come out within a 16th around the whole room, front to back this way, just use your tape or a story stick with the laser line. Thanks for the great videos.
I thourhly enjoyed this video. As a leather smith precision is very important. Thanx so much for sharing. Blessings on you all and keep on keeping on. As ever just Tom 🤠
in the UK that sink is called a Belfast sink, also in the UK the base unit sides don't go to the floor they use plastic tube stile legs with the feet threaded up the inside of the tube, then the feet can screw up or down to get units level, then the toe kick clips onto the legs
Small tip for You guys. Put a part of old measuring tape or ruler on yours upper jack so you get quick cabinet high readout. No need to use personal tape each time you put another pice on the jack. Greetings/pozdrowienia from Poland.
Always set my lowers first. And then used pre-made spacers to set uppers on. Love your set up with a bottle jack though!! But if lowers are set level, shouldn't need it.
![POLYCAT - ข้อความรูปยิ้ม :) [Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lBhIgPGCgbI/mqdefault.jpg)
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Mr Wadsworth I would like to thank both you, and Nate for all the effort that has gone into your channel over the years. I began watching your channel in high school while taking a carpentry class and used it as an after work school of sorts when I got my first job framing. From the bottom of my heart thank you both so much.
May good fortune and great weather follow the Wadsworth family for all of their days.
th-cam.com/users/shortsx15VyYXLEl8?feature=share
th-cam.com/video/Py1lB757bc8/w-d-xo.html
I love building cabinets. Nice to see all the gables are plywood and not pressboard. I always talked clients into custom because all the major producers here use pressboard, and 10-20% of the cabinets end up with edges and corners blown out of them before they're even delivered.
My buddy is a individual one man custom cabinet maker and everything he does is 3/4 oak,ash top grade materials. He recently moved back to his old stomping grounds where he and his father built and installed their cabinets and he’s gone back to folks that their cabinets were installed 20 years ago and he says they look like new. He takes allot of pride in his work! Have a fantastic day
The only place I've found MDF to be a reasonable replacement for solid/plywood in cabinet making is in the raised panel for a paint-grade cabinet door. It's not ideal IMO but can help with more budget-oriented projects. With most lowers being drawer bases these days the amount of wear and tear, water, etc on the panels is reduced. Though I still suggest using a solid panel for the sink bases.
Not too mention wasting good money on premium countertops over cabinets made from substandard materials. IKEA being the most glaring example, lol.
@@bondpit8750
Nothing wrong with IKEA's pressboard. Especially at its pricepoint.
@@KristopherChambers Pretty much how I do it.
Hardwood rails and stiles, MDF panel.
I'm a cabinet maker and installer of 16+ years. I usually install the uppers first but will admit that cabinet jack is genius and will probably build one myself. I'm surprised to see plywood drawer boxes and side mount guides. No dovetails? no soft close? This is pretty standard in my area (eastern oregon). In all great work by these guys! Its always interesting to see how others do it. Thanks for all the great video!! I've been watching since episode #1
My jaw dropped when I saw how it worked
Seems like cheap cabinets even though they are ply. Especially considering the hardware was all sponsored. They couldn't sponsor a soft close?
Using a pumpjack with the plywood box jig is friggin genius... ingenuity. Taking that idea
I'm an apprentice cabinetmaker. I learnt some tricks watching this guy
In all building, once you have an understanding of the steps, from concrete to cabinets, you realize the importance of attention to detail in the beginning affects the difficulty/ easiness of the next step.
If the Framers cared about installing the trim, the trim work would be easier and better.
of all the things I've built, installed and rehabbed in my life, installing kitchen cabinets and trimming out a kitchen is right up there with being the most fun and challenging.
In 40 years of carpentry, probably several hundred kitchens, I’ve never installed base cabinets first. For a couple reasons, 1) way too easy to damage the base cabinets while working above them either by tool belts, belt buckles, dropping a drill or driver or level ( because you’re working above and gravity does happen), 2) it’s hard on the back to be leaning over and pushing up on a larger unit. Layout isn’t anymore difficult, but the chance of the problems described above is way less imho
I've been installing kitchens for a shorter time than you but I do uppers first as well. I find it faster and it's much easier on the body and the products.
Same here, 40 years installing cabinets and always start with the uppers
I’ve been a cabinet installer for 16 years; both factory and custom.
I have installed them both ways.
If I’m by myself, I install the bases first. It saves my back.
You need half sheet of plywood for your temporary countertop. If you forget the plywood then set the tops first.
I do like his upper jack box he has.
Makes sense
@@knightclan4 not sure how doing cabinets solo in any way saves your back.
There are two things that give me peace and joy: Essential Craftsman and Jacques Pepin videos.
As a lifelong cabinet man, I find there is still new stuff to be discovered and learned. Just when you think you have seen it all, something new comes along. Like that jacking system which is stackable. Great idea. I hope they get a patent on that. Everybody will have their favorite way to work and I always installed my base cabinets first. Then cover them with cardboard or blankets to protect them. I like having a ready made work bench. But everybody will have a different opinion and that's OK. Variety is the spice of life. Whatever works best for you is the best way to go.
I’m going to make two asap.
Brilliant idea
سلام زیاد جالب نبود ایراد داشت من خودم نجار هستم ممنوع
przy tej klasie materiałów zastosować prowadnice kulkowe i zawiasy bez cichego domyku to profanacja! :)
As a cabinet guy I was hoping for a crown molding or top trim to be place on the tops of the uppers.
It may have been to in the weeds but I would've also loved an explanation on faceframe vs frameless boxes, inset vs full overlay vs partial overlay, and some details on the drawer box construction, and hardware options.
I am a upper cabinet guy first, but I am definitely considering this approach with the jack box. 👍
You could actually make a 18 x 16 box 4' long that just sits across the leveled lower cabinets and keeps everything parallel with the leveled lowers, no jacking required no secondary leveling required. If you make a leveling base you don't even need to level individual cabinets... Just something to think about... IKEA has a steel bar that you level that connects all the cabinets to it is another idea.
I remember dad's mate would churn out his own cabinetry in his garage at night after building the houses during the day. That guy (now long gone) did everything himself and did it well. The jack is better than me holding the cabinet in place while dad fixes them.
The jack is a pretty neat idea. I wish I was thinking about it when I installed our 4x above-our-car's-hood-reaching garage cabinets. They were around 100 pounds each. I installed a temporary 2x4 under them (and ended up with holes later to be filled), but even lifting them onto the 2x4 was a quite challenge.
When you said if you don't make mistakes you don't get much done do you. That really struck home for me. As an equipment operator, I've been told if you never break down or break a part, you aren't working hard enough.
I love how EC uses sponsorships to make this whole endeavor profitable for him, but also uses his army of local contractors to put it all together. Much respect, love the series.
Offsite in this day and age is the best solution. Fella comes in, takes a LiDar "sketch" of the room, and later shows up with cabinetry/furniture that fits down to the mm. Doesn't get better than this.
"If you never make a mistake...you're not getting much done" wow! Just wow that's all I can say
When ever I get a notification you have posted a new video I stop what I am doing and watch. One of the best TH-cam channels out there.
I love Emtek hardware
Yes! Use your impactor to install hardware!
9:13 - If I may? That corner cabinet door handle's back screw head should be inset into the door to make the wood surface smooth (without the screw head protruding). My cabinets have a gouge in them from hundreds of times that round screw head has been dragged across the adjacent drawer face (before I bought the house and inset the screw head).
Amen to that!
Very true! I updated my kitchen a year ago and that screw leaves a big ugly mark.
Woa! The backsplash just appeared like magic in the middle of the installation! That I like. ;-)
And then disappeared by end 😺
The same with the countertop, it’s magic! I hope they show the installation of the countertops.
In the UK that kind of sink is called a 'Belfast sink'.
I've heard them called butlers sinks aswell
They’re very trendy right now in America. In nearly every new kitchen. Mark my word, they will be out of style in 5 years
On lowers I use a laser. Seems easier to get them all in one plane and to determine highest point in the floor.
I used a laser for upper and lower cabinets.
Great video, I use to do this work in my early 20s, brings back alot on memories. I left the field as a journeyman level, sometimes I wish I was still doing it.
Watching EC’s videos feels like I am learning something from my grandfather I honestly cherish these videos with all my heart … THANK YOU
Beautiful! I sort of preferred the first stain for the island, but I can appreciate the need to stick to your vision.
I worked as a real estate agent for a while, and in my neck of the woods there are a lot of flippers. And the number one way to tell if the flipper did a good job is to look at the kitchen cabinets. If the doors on the cabinets are hung well, with consistent reveals, and plumb and level, then 9 1/2 times out of 10, the whole project will have been done well. But if the kitchen cabinets look terrible, everything else in the house will have been done as quickly and cheaply as possible.
Installing upper or lower first mainly personal preference.
The hardware and cabinet is 1990 lol, doors are the only update.
Softclose hinges and softclose steel powder coated draws, plastic adjustable feet will save your cabinet from floods.
I mainly use laser level these days and no pencil marks lol
Kitchen install have change since I started in 1989, but the work mentality is still the same. Nice kitchen thou. Thank you.
When putting on the cabinet knobs, I would spin them on just shy of making contact, then tighten them up from the inside. Spinning tight by hand cuts into the finish on the face.
Great timing having this released at lunchtime. Did I miss episode 120?
Loved this one. Takes me back to my cabinet installing days! Great little tool, that "upper jack". Nicely done, fellas! Beautiful kitchen. And a plumb-bob off the light to center?! Come on, excellent attention to details!
Have you ever tried using french cleats to hang cabinets with?
The video I watched allows you to set the french cleats level on the wall and then level on the cabinets. Then all you have to do is hang the cabinets on the french cleats. They allow you to move the cabinets side to side a little to make small adjustments and when you get them exactly lined up you just run a screw or two through one of the french cleats to make certain no one accidentally lifts them up or an earthquake bounces them off. But if they need to be removed for some reason you can just remove the screws into the french cleat and another attached cabinet and then lift it up a little bit and pull it off.
French cleats lose depth and make the cabinet making for time consuming
@@kevindesilva4588
They would cause you to lose a couple inches of depth if you did not make you cabinets a couple of inches deeper to make up for it. Making the outer sides two inches deeper is easy and cabinets that stick two inches further out would be insignificant to the average person. A french Cleat would be very easy to hold up to a wall and level while attaching it. Then all you would have to do is lift the cabinets up and hang them on the cleats, the french cleats would hold them against the wall while other cabinets are put into place and hold them all up while you fasten all of the cabinets together, if more than one, nudge the cabinets sideways so the are exactly lined up, then run one or two screws through the cleats per cabinet to anchor them.
The alternative is lifting the cabinet against the wall and manually holding it there while getting it level and in the perfect position and then making certain that you get the screws (or nails) driven through and into a stud to secure it to a wall. Or building an adjustable brace that would bridge the gap between the floor and the cabinet or the gap between the lower cabinet and the upper cabinet to hold it in place while being adjusted, leveled, and secured.
Sounds like an insignificant amount of extra work and material for a greater benefit.
If the cabinets have to be removed for some reason in the future, like getting into the wall behind them, then all you have to do is remove one or two screws per cabinet and lift them up and inch and pull them out, then when you finish you can hang them back on the french cleats and put the screws back in.
The "jack in a box" homemade tool is an awesome solution for installing the upper cabinets! Probably can't call it that though as that name is taken!
Quote of the day: "If you never make a mistake you're not getting much done!"
An old boss of mine used to say, "The man who has never made a mistake, has never made anything,"
My dad used to tell me "If you don't make any mistakes it means you're not doing anything." Of course by that criterion there are days when I'm exceedingly busy, lol.
Remind me of my favorite Proverbs in chapter 14 when working:
"Where there are no oxen, the manger is clean, but abundant crops come by the strength of the ox." and "In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty."
Indeed
@@JamesBrown-mt5ru My friend's boss said that, at Holman-Moody, and they certainly made some things there!
its always satisfying to watch these videos, i myself am a journeyman carpenter with local 431 in Pennsylvania and i have some commercial cabinetry installation experience but these guys really know everything from a to z ,great job gentlemen, JOB WELL DONE!!
I bought the full jig and will never look back and say it was a bad alignment tool to buy. Because when I drill now I am fast/accurate. End results are perfect every time.
They sound exactly like the cabinet company I worked for here in florida. It was such a privilege working there for the few years I did and learn the things I learned. I’m third generation door specialist but have had many different jobs along my path to figuring out I wanted to go into the family trade. I’ve done loads of new construction and retro work which gives you knowledge from both ends and has helped me TONS doing doors and even in my every day life. I’ve watched so many of your videos and love every minute of all of them. Knowledge really is power and goodness do you have an abundance of raw construction knowledge, some of which has helped me since watching your videos. Thank you for sharing
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The “upper Jack” should DEFINITELY be called a “Jack in the box”!
A good one!
🤣👍👌
Real Jack in the Box!
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I agree ....!!
That upper jack just blew my mind and I need it
Curious why you didn't go with soft-close hardware? Surely the premium isn't too much to overcome considering all the materials that were donated.
Was going to ask the same question as the doors were going on. Soft close changes the entire sound of the kitchen by eliminating the bangs.
I believe there is actually an additional piece of hardware thats snaps on the hinges that makes them soft close, probably just hasnt been added yet.
It depends on the hinge. Soft close on doors isn't super useful (though I do like them better than not), but on drawers, they're super useful because drawers tend to be pretty heavy loaded down with silverware and what-not.
@@danistador I'm with you. I always thought they were kind of gimmicky and never really saw the point.
I like your narration that states that sometimes you can get both production and good work.
I've always told people that we do Good Work, Fast Work and Cheap Work - pick any two that you like.
i wish i could have tools like those. I love the Jack in the box. Lessens the burden of carrying while installing a hanging cabinet.
We have been using the hardware jig for about a year now. It has easily paid for itself in accuracy and time saving. Going to have to make one of those jack in the box. I do believe your guys would benefit from a laser to install.
Straight to the point and clear!! I can catch most of the explanation, thanks for your clear and slow pronunciation.
Thanks for posting this today, in the middle of my first custom cab job out of my garage shop. This was just what I needed to watch for some morning motivation!
Great! Hope it is going well for You, all the best!
I’m 64 years old and every time I watch one of your videos I learn something new. Thank you and God Bless.
Another job well done. I liked the soundtrack to this one guys.
I make 2 or 3 big mistakes everyday, and at least a dozen little ones; what will set you apart is being willing and able to address these issues as they pop up.
It's only a mistake if you learn nothing from it. Once you've learned something it becomes an experience.
It’s also not a mistake ‘til you walk away from it!
As an aspiring interior designer these cabinets are the dream, well built, great finish, fits great and quick to install. Beautifully done!
Excellent video as always. I'd just like to suggest to anyone learning from this video that you should get a small piece of hardwood when you are drilling out the door handles to hold behind the door. It'll really help any potential blowout. I know many hardware handles will cover it but many don't.
Installing kitchens is my favorite thing to do at work
What's your best advice for someone installing for the first time?
@@micarnxl purchase bessy cabinet clamps. Those clamps are so fast and easy to attach the face frame together. Also tripcheck your measurements and remember the face of the cabinet is wider then the back so don't forget to take that into account when doing math also don't forget about required minimal height if you have a microwave range hood combo
Love the hardwares jig! Few years ago actually started using one. Before made a jig for every install, not a big deal but eventually had a huge collection of them and hardly ever used them twice.
Cabinetmaking and installing was my only experience in the home building trade, started sweeping floors in a scrappy small 5 man shop, mostly building kitchens and bookcases for high end residences in downtown Chicago. Eventually they lost their install contractors who they had been working with, I got roped into doing installs, which I didn;t like, fighting traffic, parking, dealing with the security of high rise buildings, homeowners etc. A combination of not being properly trained for installs and not even being paid enough to buy my own personal tools I was not happy, then the economic turn down of 2006 happened and I was laid off for about a year and I found a job as apprentice Moldmaker/Toolmaker and its been good to me.
As I have taken on more advanced DIY work around my homes and rentals, I have come to appreciate the skills, knowledge and
“soup-to-nuts” understanding of how both the art of design and the science of building must holistically integrate, within the scope of a complex wood-working project. Thank you for the process overview and insightful and wisdom-filled commentary.
If you have a tile backsplash that is going up just screw a two-by-four to the wall into the studs make sure it's level and do that and then it is very easy to do I am a cabinet installer myself
Not gonna lie, that heavy duty plumb-bob we saw hanging over the island about 7 minutes in makes me want to ask for an EC video about exactly vertical lines and the tools that accomplish them!
Finally I get to watch my job done on your place. only difference is cabinet design on my end is non framed. Instead European boxes.
3rd leg or hand is what my cab jacks are. Love them , got off Amazon about 10yrs ago and only replaced one so far. Great when solo.
Speaking of drill/ drivers, I started out using them only for mounting cabinets to the wall. Everything else my dad and I used braces with hole saws for plumbing penetrations, yankee drills for hardware installation. This was early and mid 90’s. We’ve since got with the times but I got a lot of satisfaction using the old tools. Great video!
That Jack is brilliant. These guys know their stuff
Top quality cabinets. Looking forward to seeing the bench tops put in.
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I'm continually impressed with the quality of your editing and backing music selection - really professional video. Great works guys!
That cabinet pull jig is great. I bought one and it worked really well. The only problem I had was I decided to reuse the tape I was marking off the center lines. Well, one drawer I didn't tear off the line from the last cabinet and accidentally centered on the wrong like. So, other than me being an idiot, the jig worked perfectly. Luckily the mis-drilled hole was on a bottom cabinet so you never even notice it, which is why I still haven't fixed it. lol
Wonderful series. I notice that this is Episode 121. The last episode was 119. Where is 120? Thanks again, I'm learning a lot from this...
Looks like it was just misnumbered, it's 120 now.
I came across a bus driver once who reckoned that if you weren't having a couple of near misses a week you weren't trying hard enough to stick to schedule.
What I do appreciate these cabinets are solid wood, or plywood, it was stronger than presswood, and last longer.👍
Mr. Wadsworth I appreciate your guidance especially with kitchen cabinets! I am in Los Angeles, and in late 2019 I hired a cabinet maker from La Quinada who was "just starting out with his business" and thought to hire him to help along his business. BIG MISTAKE. The end result? $27,000 lost on white oak cabinets, with two different types of varnish used. Of the many lessons I'll share just one: The guy did NOT use a jig to make hardware holes. When I asked him, his reply was "Oh I've been doing this for years, all I need is my measuring tape." Of course, some of the hardware handles are crooked. So people, MAKE SURE your contractor uses a jig for such detail. If they refuse, fire them and find another. Mr. Wadsworth was right about the only leverage being money.
Ohh gosh this is amazing....we just bought our first home.. it's a fixer upper... come do our cabinets lol 3 bathrooms and a full kitchen..lol we're going to be awhile doing them as newbies lol thanks for the videos
Lol nice job!
Hey Scott, do you think there will be another video about the design and use of space for the cabinets? Really enjoying this series.
Shocked to see side mount slides 😨
I love your work and videos thank you!
No kidding I was hoping they were fully phased out industry wide, cursed things!
@@Backertothegrave undermounts are the bees knees
“It’s great when a plan comes together”…love watching professionals….
Heavy duty farm sink is great!"I put wall cabs in First, with a stretcher at 54" horizontal, to lay cabs onto.East Coast Finisher cabinetmaker-carpenter
i love your channel, your a great teacher. i actually recommend you videos to people i learned from
I do the same and work in the trades!
Such a great channel. Always something to learn here. You ever notice it’s the little tricks and tips you you learn here? Those ones when you say, “well duh, that would’ve made my job alot easier!” 🤣
Upper Jack, working smarter and not harder. Thanks for all your posts.
Here in the UK I fit the wall units first.We fit metal brackets to the wall, the cupboards have a metal bracket on them which sits over the top of the wall bracket (same principle as a French Cleat) and the brackets allow for about 1/4" of height adjustment , tighten and then also fix the bottom of the wallunits through the back panels and then the base units last. All set out via a self levelling Laser line. As they say "There's more than one way to skin a cat" . Enjoyed the video though and regards from England.
Thank you for this beautiful video, just what I needed right now. Loved the jack box and installation of lower cabinets first creating the lower work surface. Also the tool for installation of pulls. Please make a video about how you use these two tools. I love all your videos and I learn so much each time.
I'd love to see more on that cabnet Jack. What a neat idea
Wow! when I built the floor to ceiling cabinets in our kitchen remodel my first attempt I encountered the unforeseen issue of the diagonal height from corner to opposite corner coming into play when actually tipping the dang thing up to vertical, i had to remake it shorter just to be able to tip it up in place. I was immediately impressed with the beginning of this video and these guys having their tolerances down !
Everything looks great except for the tile on the left side of the upper cabinets. It should lineup cabinet and tile. I think it will look better then the tile passing the cabinet. 9:05.
Hung cabinets by myself using a Jack box for several years before I retired
This is the real home of the drill driver, I personally like the little bosch chuckless drivers for this, they are even better than the makita 7.6v drivers I used to use. I hate large tools for inside cabinet work.
Wow, Rico Ramos actually working and doing a good JOB!!!!!!
The work that was done is exactly the way it should be and it was done with an economy of motion that's one of the things that can happen when the people on the ground have an intention to be productive and to do good work you don't have to pick one of the other sometimes you can get both.
Well said, You can do both
I set some uppers in a utility room with a automotive floor jack and a 2x4 T-ee, not pretty but it got the job done.
That little cabinet jack is one of those "why didn't I think of that?" moments.
We are moving to the Roseburg area, so I drove by the house to see it, and it didn't disappoint. Actually, it looked better in person.
Great video, thanks. Surprised to see the hinges aren't soft-closing though. Unless that's an accessory that's added on later.
I love your channel! you're like the bob ross of the carpentry world. Could listen to you all day long.
Nice installation. I'm in Eugene. I've seen a couple of the places you've done. Great Work. I install bases first too and jack the uppers off a temp deck on the bases. I use Fastcap's short jacks "Little Hand" 3rd hand jacks. They work awesome. Two of them and you can place an upper PERFECTLY. I also use my PLS 4 laser with a level line to set bases instead of levels. My bases come out within a 16th around the whole room, front to back this way, just use your tape or a story stick with the laser line. Thanks for the great videos.
I thourhly enjoyed this video. As a leather smith precision is very important. Thanx so much for sharing. Blessings on you all and keep on keeping on. As ever just Tom 🤠
“You won’t get service like that from a big box store!”
-you mean the island coming in with the wrong finish? 😂
Love all the drawers in the island. We decided on drawers in all the lower cabinets for our new house, and I wouldn't have it any other way.
How do they avoid tear out on the inside of the hardware holes? As a homeowner, I use scrap as a backer.
The head of the hardware screw 99% of the time covers any tear out if you’re using a decently sharp bit and drill slow.
It also looks like at least some of the fronts are MDF which as long as you lift your pressure before you exit is less prone to proper tear out
in the UK that sink is called a Belfast sink, also in the UK the base unit sides don't go to the floor they use plastic tube stile legs with the feet threaded up the inside of the tube, then the feet can screw up or down to get units level, then the toe kick clips onto the legs
I like the design of that jack. Looks easy enough to make one.
Small tip for You guys. Put a part of old measuring tape or ruler on yours upper jack so you get quick cabinet high readout. No need to use personal tape each time you put another pice on the jack. Greetings/pozdrowienia from Poland.
Thank you for the video. Eight years ago, I remodeled my kitchen and saved $700 for cabinets labor installation.
I love the countertop jack, great idea.
Always set my lowers first. And then used pre-made spacers to set uppers on. Love your set up with a bottle jack though!! But if lowers are set level, shouldn't need it.