Do you think its worth while to take off the valve cover to make sure the chain is going into the tensioner and zip tying the chain to the sproket so it doesnt skip a tooth while you turn the crank to apply tension to the chain?
+Philip Wan technically yes it's a safer way of replacing the tensioner but the tensioner will only fit one way and it won't go in all the way if it doesn't line up with the timing guide. the zip tie won't help much since they will tear as soon as you begin to rotate the engine, a better method is to keep one hand on the side of the sprocket and rotate the engine slowly. whatever you do DO NOT rotate your engine without the tensioner installed you will skip a tooth
Wow amazing thanks so much for the quick reply, maybe i'll try save the hassle and just do it without removing the valve cover, if i cant hear a click when turning the crank anti-clockwise, i'll take the valve cover off. Thanks again for making this video, it was super detailed you deserve more views!
Thanks for sharing this video. The real thing I learn here is to buy the tensioner made by the dealer. And I know from other cars that the manufacturers also very often revise their designs for tensioners after the cars have been on the road for a while and if you are replacing the you deffinately want the newest design not the old stock.
I don't quite understand what line you were referring to when you turned.it manually to dtc. I'm not wanting to remove the valve cover to confirm tdc. But couldn't see what you meant by the second line to the left on the crank pulley are you able to explain to a noob? Thanks
Thank you for posting this video very helpfull.i changed mine in a 1.8 vvti.i rotated first wrong instead of forward i did first backwards but in the end i heard the tick sound so its ok Now im littlebite affraid of the chain if its damaged or out of timing no weird engine noise
Only sort of related to this video, but have you ever had to pull the timing cover on a P11 with the engine in the car? Can it be done? We don't have the space or equipment to pull the engine, but I am fairly certain the timing cover o-ring is leaking because the timing chain tensioner does not seem to be the source of the leak and it's definitely above the crankshaft.
I’m mostly venting, but feel free to chime in. I replaced my first two fuel injectors in my 1991 SE-R (146k bone stock, all OEM parts) with the OEM ones Nissan currently sells for the SR20DE which is part number 16600-53J03. I knew I had an injector problem because I initially took an injector off my parts car, a 1992 NX2000, and my problem stopped. So I installed the new injectors and the first cylinder locked and my timing chain skipped, causing my engine to basically become inoperable. I’m super frustrated and bummed because my car was super healthy and I have records of everything for it dating back to 1992, plus it’s never had a timing issue including the tensioner. I’m going to get the injectors Nissan sent me diagnosed to see if the one on the first cylinder was stuck open or faulty. I’m not sure what’s going to come of this, but I hope my car isn’t toast because I’ve put too much into it to lose it to something so stupid.
hows it going, sounds like bad luck. did you verify you had a timing chain issue, check Top dead center. Your injector maybe was letting too much fuel off. remove the spark plugs and see if you can see any fuel
ERICSDIYGARAGE hey, yeah, the cylinder had fuel in it which was my second indication something was wrong. But the first was when I cranked it and I heard a CLUNK from the motor, which was my timing chain skipping. I’m assuming I either got a bad injector or, less likely, the wrong injector.
USING A POINTER WOULD BE MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE AT CONVEYING YOUR INFORMATIN. I TRIED FOLLOWING YOU, BUT I DON'T SEE THE THINGS YOU ARE SPEAKING OF (PULLEY MARKS, METAL STICKING OUT, SECOND LINE TO THE LEFT - OF WHAT ? ETC.) ALSO, WHEN YOU'RE TURNING THE PULLEY, WHICH DIRECTION ARE YOU GOING COUNTER-CLOCKWISE? FINALLY, WHEN YOU SAID ,IF WE" HAVE AN OLDER MODEL", WELL, WHAT IS THE MODEL OF THIS CAR? THANKS SO MUCH !!
@12.38 did you turn the engine backwards for a reason? or would it work the same rotating the engine the correct way? (or does it make any difference at all) would you say the O ring is needed for the pressure to keep tension on the chain .. (i have a rattle, but no leaks externally and wondering if it could only be the O ring) thanks for the video, will make it more familiar to Me if i check mine
you need to unclip the tensioner clip I believe service manual calls for to rotate the engine backwards. A bad O'ring will allow for oil to pass through and you will loose pressure in the tensioner causing rattle
So to turn the engine backwards are you (loosing) rotating counter clockwise to do so at the crank. Just want to make sure. Also where do you access that from. Is that in the wheel well?
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE yea I just bout a 1999 n it's rattling from the right side of the motor ,I'll try to remove the upper guid n see if that helps, thanks
yeah it was brittle and it was allowing for oil to leak pass the tensioner making it rattle because it was not applying proper tension. The actual tensioner itself it's pretty much fell proof but the o ring will need to be replaced eventually.
Do you think its worth while to take off the valve cover to make sure the chain is going into the tensioner and zip tying the chain to the sproket so it doesnt skip a tooth while you turn the crank to apply tension to the chain?
+Philip Wan technically yes it's a safer way of replacing the tensioner but the tensioner will only fit one way and it won't go in all the way if it doesn't line up with the timing guide. the zip tie won't help much since they will tear as soon as you begin to rotate the engine, a better method is to keep one hand on the side of the sprocket and rotate the engine slowly. whatever you do DO NOT rotate your engine without the tensioner installed you will skip a tooth
Wow amazing thanks so much for the quick reply, maybe i'll try save the hassle and just do it without removing the valve cover, if i cant hear a click when turning the crank anti-clockwise, i'll take the valve cover off.
Thanks again for making this video, it was super detailed you deserve more views!
+Philip Wan Thank you I appreciate it!
exelente
Thanks for sharing this video. The real thing I learn here is to buy the tensioner made by the dealer. And I know from other cars that the manufacturers also very often revise their designs for tensioners after the cars have been on the road for a while and if you are replacing the you deffinately want the newest design not the old stock.
Thank you for watching!
The left tensioner with the small teeth is the revised version, the big teeth is the older style which has less tension
I don't quite understand what line you were referring to when you turned.it manually to dtc. I'm not wanting to remove the valve cover to confirm tdc. But couldn't see what you meant by the second line to the left on the crank pulley are you able to explain to a noob? Thanks
Nvm I got it
Thank you for posting this video very helpfull.i changed mine in a 1.8 vvti.i rotated first wrong instead of forward i did first backwards but in the end i heard the tick sound so its ok
Now im littlebite affraid of the chain if its damaged or out of timing no weird engine noise
Only sort of related to this video, but have you ever had to pull the timing cover on a P11 with the engine in the car? Can it be done?
We don't have the space or equipment to pull the engine, but I am fairly certain the timing cover o-ring is leaking because the timing chain tensioner does not seem to be the source of the leak and it's definitely above the crankshaft.
I’m mostly venting, but feel free to chime in. I replaced my first two fuel injectors in my 1991 SE-R (146k bone stock, all OEM parts) with the OEM ones Nissan currently sells for the SR20DE which is part number 16600-53J03. I knew I had an injector problem because I initially took an injector off my parts car, a 1992 NX2000, and my problem stopped. So I installed the new injectors and the first cylinder locked and my timing chain skipped, causing my engine to basically become inoperable. I’m super frustrated and bummed because my car was super healthy and I have records of everything for it dating back to 1992, plus it’s never had a timing issue including the tensioner. I’m going to get the injectors Nissan sent me diagnosed to see if the one on the first cylinder was stuck open or faulty. I’m not sure what’s going to come of this, but I hope my car isn’t toast because I’ve put too much into it to lose it to something so stupid.
hows it going, sounds like bad luck. did you verify you had a timing chain issue, check Top dead center. Your injector maybe was letting too much fuel off. remove the spark plugs and see if you can see any fuel
ERICSDIYGARAGE hey, yeah, the cylinder had fuel in it which was my second indication something was wrong. But the first was when I cranked it and I heard a CLUNK from the motor, which was my timing chain skipping. I’m assuming I either got a bad injector or, less likely, the wrong injector.
USING A POINTER WOULD BE MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE AT CONVEYING YOUR INFORMATIN. I TRIED FOLLOWING YOU, BUT I DON'T SEE THE THINGS YOU ARE SPEAKING OF (PULLEY MARKS, METAL STICKING OUT, SECOND LINE TO THE LEFT - OF WHAT ? ETC.) ALSO, WHEN YOU'RE TURNING THE PULLEY, WHICH DIRECTION ARE YOU GOING COUNTER-CLOCKWISE? FINALLY, WHEN YOU SAID ,IF WE" HAVE AN OLDER MODEL", WELL, WHAT IS THE MODEL OF THIS CAR? THANKS SO MUCH !!
Hi! Amazing video, but I have a sound like your when you turn on the engine like a whistle. Like if the car had turbine. Any idea?
I've read that can be the fan clutch
Alternator
@12.38 did you turn the engine backwards for a reason? or would it work the same rotating the engine the correct way? (or does it make any difference at all) would you say the O ring is needed for the pressure to keep tension on the chain .. (i have a rattle, but no leaks externally and wondering if it could only be the O ring)
thanks for the video, will make it more familiar to Me if i check mine
you need to unclip the tensioner clip I believe service manual calls for to rotate the engine backwards. A bad O'ring will allow for oil to pass through and you will loose pressure in the tensioner causing rattle
So to turn the engine backwards are you (loosing) rotating counter clockwise to do so at the crank. Just want to make sure. Also where do you access that from. Is that in the wheel well?
Yes and by the wheel well
If you take out the upper guid, would you need to replace it?
No the upper guild can be removed so that it wont rattle as much 2000 and up dont have this upper guide since they rattle when they wear out
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE yea I just bout a 1999 n it's rattling from the right side of the motor ,I'll try to remove the upper guid n see if that helps, thanks
My primera did 300000km and i have a chain noice.what should i do.do i replace the hole thing or only tensioner?
What was the problem that made your tensioner's car go like that ??
The o-ring for his tensioner was shot. It literally fell apart.
yeah it was brittle and it was allowing for oil to leak pass the tensioner making it rattle because it was not applying proper tension. The actual tensioner itself it's pretty much fell proof but the o ring will need to be replaced eventually.
good afternoon sir ,I want you to help me on sr20 timing rattling.
same for 2011 rouge?
probably no
I have that problem right now
P.s next time only turn engine in clockwise direction