You need a Hydraulic steering ram. That way the hoses move up and down with suspension. If you try a steering rack you will have to have telescoping steering shaft while rack is mounted to front end
I second that idea. We use them down here in southeast Louisiana on boats because of that versatility. Another benefit is the strength of the ram compared to a r-a-p steering, which I think would be good for a bouncer when you're bound in a rut or rock crevasse. Nothing will stop a ram and ypu can turn it with your finger on the steering wheel. Plus its way less complicated without any linkage
I agree with the boat hydraulic steering due to them having a check valve in them making it so only moving the wheel will allowing to turn as well as having it be able to flex without binding the steering linkage
Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México th-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/w-d-xo.html
His axles are holding him back from putting bigger tires under it. He would have to redesign a bunch to put bigger axles under it. That being said it definitely needs bigger tires
Other people have offered this suggestion and its one I agree with: why don't you use bump stop rings/sleeves that attach to the shock absorber (at the bottom of the ram shaft)? That would eliminate all the headaches and mess of trying alternate external methods
100% this. Motocross bikes or mountain bikes don’t have external bump stops and there forks and shocks take huge impacts. This will only ever take slow speed impacts so a shock mounted bump stop around the shaft would work perfectly. Look neater and save a load of weight.
Putting the stops on the shock also buts the hard mechanical loads- straight ones and bending- through the shock assembly- the independent bump stops put the load at stop directly into the frame or strong suspension members. FR
@@1one3_Racing comment suggestions here are pointless. Never seen this guy open a rollcage regulations booklet on he whole time he’s been here. Evidently this cage/chassis he’s built is closest to a spec cage I’ve seen him build, of all of them this is the only one I’d trust in a rollover
@@dylanzrim3635 Not expert on roll cages, but for what i know, you never have joints in the main arch for each direction, only where those connect. Why comments do not get listened is probably cause his like many other creators is already several weeks ahead of the moments you watch, so he has already tried it several times, given up and tried another method that somewhat even works but not good and is way too far in the project to make changes.
or least sketch something on napkin to get general idea what you are building, but yes 3d modeling allows to remove kinks in the design before any metal is cut, but its hefty work load on its own, so napkin and maybe small model would do wonders to find how axles move and so on.
If you are going with uni joints make sure the yokes are parallel and your gearbox output shaft and your diff input shaft are parallel (Z formation). Since your tail end is pivoting you would go for middle the range of angle full travel causes for the diff angle and live with the consequences regarding varying velocity at the diff. Don't spend too much time on hard surfaces. Used CV joint driveshafts are plentiful and cheap if you want to remove the problem. I love your work and dedication. Thank you for sharing it.
You DESPERATELY need a buddy/advisor that you can bounce ideas around with before you spend so much time on projects and then realize you didnt think about something. You do incredible work and i feel like just having someone else to reign in/ adjust your plans slightly would save you a ton of hours and money.
Yea but those mistakes that he is making and spending time on is giving him great experience which will serve him well in the future. That is the same way the experts learned by trial and error.
That's all true but he is also a smart business man that unlike a few other popular channels he will put a tarp on it and move on to the next build rather then spend his budget twice . So getting to find people that could be trusted to look at drawings and give knowledgeable opinions trust me this young man is smart enough to also learn from other people's mistakes let's face it the most successful people in their fields improve on generating more money while spending less so getting it right the first time would allow him to sell finished product's at top dollar so any snowmobile related questions if I don't know the answer my lifelong best friends are still taking home trophys almost everytime they go to a race that has trophies to be won.
Yes you can make use of that much travel especially if it’s droop. Rock crawlers use more droop then up travel. And I’m glad to see the you do have a slip yoke , didn’t see that before
I run the same shocks on both my rig, and i assure you he will roll the shit out lf that thing. Its way too narrow to profit every inch on that shocks 🤦🏻♂️
Hydro electric power steering pump is the way to go for steering. You can find them in almost any newer cars now. No belts or pulleys needed it’s a self contained system with motor pump and reservoir all together it’s the best thing ever! And connect it to a ram.
1...Use a donut ring on the shock as a bump stop. Your way over complicating it. 2...Switch the shocks from front too back. You don't need that much stroke on the front. 3...You should run just enough nitrogen pressure to extend the shock about half way out or a little less. You want more droop than lift.
I totally love it I have my doubts about the differentials though they look so puny week looking you’re going to be upgrading those in the future I predict but you got the structure there to build on so you could just do you like everybody does break it and make it stronger I applaud you my evil genius fabricator
I’ve been following you for years now and you are a true fabricator of all the other channels I watch,you’re work is world class , keep up the great work mate, Dave, Sydney Australia 🇦🇺 👍👍👍👍
Bro I literally think about this build all week. Your a beast bro I've been watching you from the gate and your just on a whole other level with your machining. I think your the dopest builder on TH-cam and I watch grind hard!
If I’m not mistaken the reason for your funky bump stop locations is that your upper and lower links in the front are backwards from the traditional style. Usually your upper links are narrow on the axle and wide at the frame and vice versa for the lowers
Are you kidding me!? That thing would kill in the dunes! Speaking of dunes, it’s almost opening day at Glamis. You NEED to get out there with your machines this year. It’s a blast!
That thing is very cool sir😎👍. I would like to suggest a few things that it really needs. The first, bigger tires. One good reason is to roll over rocks/obstacles. Your really limited to obstacles just over half the tire diameter. Another great reason is traction. To get great traction you have to sacrifice tire hight. This sacrifice happens when you are forced to air down your tires to gain traction. At this point your will need to consider your gear ratios. Is the ratio high enough to produce enough torque. Then the bouncer aspect comes in to play horse power! The higher the ratio the less horse power you can effectively use for speed. Good luck I can't wait for the next episode. Thank you👍
Rod in tube bump stopp. If you have a "dummy" suspension in line with the suspension you can have a bumpstop that works every time with now alingment issues
Incredible stuff, and cool to take viewers on the journey. Never have I seen independent suspension components used to build solid axles. You know it would be cool to have the center diff in a square cage and 4-linked to the frame and where it only swung up and down, and then use the axles shafts as intended swung from sides of the square frame to the spindles…. A mono shock in the middle and coil overs on the swing arms ….
you need to clock your u-joints to prevent vibration/surging, pretty sweet build, and seeing this at full height, its like a jungle gym with an engine xD, its going to be a blast when you get it done
I have only watched some of your video so far but I am really enjoying it because I feel your pain so to speak. I just finished building my rock crawler tube chassis all custom with 14-bolt axles and you're running into so many of the same issues that I did you know Fabian it cutting it apart mocking it up and redoing it's a lot of work to get everything to fit and the tolerances are extremely close
I think what you were meaning to say when you were describing the suspension was, how much Articulation is in this suspension. If I'm remembering correctly, suspension setups with solid axles will articulate much more than a independent suspension system. Food for thought. Keep up the good work
You could put a 3rd bump stop dead center to limit the straight up and down movement and even have it stop lower than the other two. They’d still work when one corner goes up individually.
A computer program so you can design and change before or as you build would be a fantastic idea. I can’t think of any VM names of them but I know they are out there. You’re having fun and learning and at the end of the day that most important thing 😎😊
GREAT!!! I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR ANOTHER VIDEO ON THIS! THANKS!!! ... "Come to think about it, nobody thinks outside the box like you do...in fact...hmmm, I don't think you have ever been trapped 'inside the box' in your entire life!" I would hinge the roof bracing to make it simple to get in and out, whichever side you like to get in, hinge the other side...sorta like a cockpit on a plane. A simple & strong latch can keep it in place because the strength needs to keep it from crushing in towards your noggin.
Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México th-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/w-d-xo.html
Ok brother... I have 2 names for you. "The Rock Hammock" or "Batman's Dragula"! Still you standing back laughing at your creation is Priceless brother!
Another awesome video, NEVER a letdown. This project is amazing and I can't wait to see this thing when it's final. Also great video editing, part of what makes this channel better than the rest, keep up the great work!!!
Now that I see the "final design" I realized what's wrong with it. The axles should be farther away from the frame (in a longitudinal direction, obviously), not directly below it. That way it can be lower to the ground while maintaining the same suspension travel.
Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México th-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/w-d-xo.html
Make the bump stop move with the shock. You could either clamp the stop to the outside of the shock, or have it tied to the top mount with a long piece of tubing that surrounds the shock, it would keep it from ever getting out of alignment.
Yep the tires could be 3 times as tall. 😄 Plus, don't know if you already know this, two of those directional tires are mounted wrong. Right good, left is wrong.
I would re design the axels and make them way more compact lower your shock mounting points on the axels lower you will gain twice the amount of travel and flex
Look at how all the air shocks buggy are set... 6-8 inch of up travel max. more pressure in them, more height you got, but also more spring rate... Air is really progressive, you wont feel it much mid travel but the last 5-6 inch are gonna be worst. You have to balance the ratio pressure/oil to achieve that, more oil, less air to achieve same height... but too much oil = hydro lock
For the steering, an option would be to use hydraulics as it would mean that you do not have to faf around with linkages and universal joints, another way it to use electrics but that would put stress on the battery if the charging system wasn't sufficient.
Chris i would have some some old leaf springs for the bump stop. just fix them where the bends in the springs opose each other. also cut the springs don't torch cut them will weaken the springs.
I'm getting so excited to see this sucker in action. This has to be your most ambitious build to date. How did you keep your cool through the whole bump so thing?? lol! Keep em coming! Great vid!
Stiffer suspension, not longer travel.....wrong suspension yet again. I still LOVE the work you do, brother! Not trying to hate, at all!! Keep going and you can figure it out!!!! Mad props!!!!
The terms your looking for is, full bump, full drop (or droop) and articulation. You could have used compressed air for your shock test, and if you were only going to be crawling air is fine as the shocks don't heat up much under slow movements. Props on you ingenuity and determination on this build. Bump stops are only usable on rear trailing arm (independent), and double a arm front suspension. Solid axle suspension plane of rotation change too much (with high articulation) to have a fixed frame bump stop .
Here’s and idea. Perhaps a boat steering system with a push pull cable would work. They are fairly reasonable and should be plenty strong for your application
Hydraulic stearing would be super cool if you could make it work ! Possibly run a pump off the chain drive and mount it as the chain tensioner? Also this could unlock possible 4 wheel stearing in the future!
this foot joint should always be mounted in the center, mid axle. reason being, when it's under a load and it has torque applied, it has a tendency to load one side of the output shaft of the rear end more than the other side, causing a gnarly vibration.
When you fist pushed it out i thought you had built bunk beds on wheels. Glad you didnt and glad you sorted out the problems you had. I cant wait to see the next video, hopefully it stops raining very soon.
bro i love this build, i mean don't get me wrong every other build i crazy but this amazing. i think you should let the top be a hatch to get in and leave the sides. OVER ALL GOOD BUILD
The driveshaft slip joint is called a Slip Yoke. For the rack steering shaft to the rack and pinion you'll most likely need a collapsing steering shaft which can be made out of 1" DD steering shaft. Lots of places sell the parts including Flaming River, Summit, Sweet Mfg., Borgeson, etc.
Best part: "what have I built!?" I appreciate the fearless dive into the deep end of an idea, even if it doesn't ultimately work out.
Agreed
Yep, me 3
You need a Hydraulic steering ram. That way the hoses move up and down with suspension. If you try a steering rack you will have to have telescoping steering shaft while rack is mounted to front end
I second that idea. We use them down here in southeast Louisiana on boats because of that versatility. Another benefit is the strength of the ram compared to a r-a-p steering, which I think would be good for a bouncer when you're bound in a rut or rock crevasse. Nothing will stop a ram and ypu can turn it with your finger on the steering wheel. Plus its way less complicated without any linkage
I agree with the boat hydraulic steering due to them having a check valve in them making it so only moving the wheel will allowing to turn as well as having it be able to flex without binding the steering linkage
Electric rack would be enough for this thing.
Recovering from total hip replacement, I'm no Fabrication worker, only enjoy the extensive and substantial videos you share to viewers. Thank You
Some 33 inch jeep tires instead of utv tires would be pretty darn nice
Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México
th-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/w-d-xo.html
His axles are holding him back from putting bigger tires under it. He would have to redesign a bunch to put bigger axles under it. That being said it definitely needs bigger tires
That wouldnt really fit his "mini rock bouncer" look
it would also put HUGE strain and make it waaay too big and even shorter looking
And 650ccs wouldn't provide enough torque
Other people have offered this suggestion and its one I agree with: why don't you use bump stop rings/sleeves that attach to the shock absorber (at the bottom of the ram shaft)?
That would eliminate all the headaches and mess of trying alternate external methods
I even stopped this video to go look at several when the 1st placement was wrong.5 minutes versus hours.
100% this. Motocross bikes or mountain bikes don’t have external bump stops and there forks and shocks take huge impacts. This will only ever take slow speed impacts so a shock mounted bump stop around the shaft would work perfectly. Look neater and save a load of weight.
Putting the stops on the shock also buts the hard mechanical loads- straight ones and bending- through the shock assembly- the independent bump stops put the load at stop directly into the frame or strong suspension members. FR
Put a donut ring around the shock base. You won't have to worry about missing a plate
I said that about 4 videos back and got roasted for it.
Great idea I was going to suggest the same thing looks better to
@@1one3_Racing comment suggestions here are pointless. Never seen this guy open a rollcage regulations booklet on he whole time he’s been here.
Evidently this cage/chassis he’s built is closest to a spec cage I’ve seen him build, of all of them this is the only one I’d trust in a rollover
Thats what some car manufacturers do.
@@dylanzrim3635 Not expert on roll cages, but for what i know, you never have joints in the main arch for each direction, only where those connect.
Why comments do not get listened is probably cause his like many other creators is already several weeks ahead of the moments you watch, so he has already tried it several times, given up and tried another method that somewhat even works but not good and is way too far in the project to make changes.
by watching this guy doing so much extra work, you can understand why it is so important to develop a 3D model !!
or least sketch something on napkin to get general idea what you are building, but yes 3d modeling allows to remove kinks in the design before any metal is cut, but its hefty work load on its own, so napkin and maybe small model would do wonders to find how axles move and so on.
If you are going with uni joints make sure the yokes are parallel and your gearbox output shaft and your diff input shaft are parallel (Z formation). Since your tail end is pivoting you would go for middle the range of angle full travel causes for the diff angle and live with the consequences regarding varying velocity at the diff. Don't spend too much time on hard surfaces. Used CV joint driveshafts are plentiful and cheap if you want to remove the problem. I love your work and dedication. Thank you for sharing it.
Congrats on your 1st moonbuggy.
You DESPERATELY need a buddy/advisor that you can bounce ideas around with before you spend so much time on projects and then realize you didnt think about something. You do incredible work and i feel like just having someone else to reign in/ adjust your plans slightly would save you a ton of hours and money.
Yea but those mistakes that he is making and spending time on is giving him great experience which will serve him well in the future. That is the same way the experts learned by trial and error.
Agree, there is no mistake, it’s a lesson in what doesn’t work. I like how he does it him self, when it breaks he learns
@@busarob1969 well said!
That's all true but he is also a smart business man that unlike a few other popular channels he will put a tarp on it and move on to the next build rather then spend his budget twice . So getting to find people that could be trusted to look at drawings and give knowledgeable opinions trust me this young man is smart enough to also learn from other people's mistakes let's face it the most successful people in their fields improve on generating more money while spending less so getting it right the first time would allow him to sell finished product's at top dollar so any snowmobile related questions if I don't know the answer my lifelong best friends are still taking home trophys almost everytime they go to a race that has trophies to be won.
I thought the way you fixed the issue with the front bump stop problem was spot on.... freakin mint!
You are taking the time to explain much more in this video than others. I appreciate that. As always Chris. Nice Work!!
Yes you can make use of that much travel especially if it’s droop. Rock crawlers use more droop then up travel. And I’m glad to see the you do have a slip yoke , didn’t see that before
But I'd this a rock crawler or what he calls a rock bouncer which are totally different
@@bustinyanutz4195 ok but they both use a lot of droop . The idea is to let it drop so the tires stay in contact with the ground.
I run the same shocks on both my rig, and i assure you he will roll the shit out lf that thing. Its way too narrow to profit every inch on that shocks 🤦🏻♂️
@@Bproject89 thats what i thought
You are getting very creative. More unique and more complex each build!
Chris, that mad scientist laugh is awesome, and so is this insane build. Keep up the great work!
Look forward to seeing this every Sunday!!
Hydro electric power steering pump is the way to go for steering. You can find them in almost any newer cars now. No belts or pulleys needed it’s a self contained system with motor pump and reservoir all together it’s the best thing ever! And connect it to a ram.
Just remember your "BACK" Thank you very much with all the suspension travel. Great project. YOU can n ever have to much travel
1...Use a donut ring on the shock as a bump stop. Your way over complicating it.
2...Switch the shocks from front too back. You don't need that much stroke on the front.
3...You should run just enough nitrogen pressure to extend the shock about half way out or a little less. You want more droop than lift.
5-6 inch on those 14 is a good start,
He wont profit every inch anyway, the axle are way too narrow
@@Bproject89 Agreed...I would still swap the fronts too the back. He could move the upper shock mounts up easier on the back for the longer shock.
@@MullinPerformance what length are the back one ? I was sure that he bought 14 all around
I totally love it I have my doubts about the differentials though they look so puny week looking you’re going to be upgrading those in the future I predict but you got the structure there to build on so you could just do you like everybody does break it and make it stronger I applaud you my evil genius fabricator
I’ve been following you for years now and you are a true fabricator of all the other channels I watch,you’re work is world class , keep up the great work mate,
Dave, Sydney Australia 🇦🇺 👍👍👍👍
Bro I literally think about this build all week. Your a beast bro I've been watching you from the gate and your just on a whole other level with your machining. I think your the dopest builder on TH-cam and I watch grind hard!
If I’m not mistaken the reason for your funky bump stop locations is that your upper and lower links in the front are backwards from the traditional style. Usually your upper links are narrow on the axle and wide at the frame and vice versa for the lowers
Maaaan I wish u did this like a year or two ago so I could watch the whole thing start to finish in only a couple sittings!!! I’m Hooked!!
13:44 it hitting the frame there makes me cry i love the 50's look there it was the best part
Are you kidding me!? That thing would kill in the dunes!
Speaking of dunes, it’s almost opening day at Glamis. You NEED to get out there with your machines this year. It’s a blast!
That thing is very cool sir😎👍. I would like to suggest a few things that it really needs. The first, bigger tires. One good reason is to roll over rocks/obstacles. Your really limited to obstacles just over half the tire diameter. Another great reason is traction. To get great traction you have to sacrifice tire hight. This sacrifice happens when you are forced to air down your tires to gain traction. At this point your will need to consider your gear ratios. Is the ratio high enough to produce enough torque. Then the bouncer aspect comes in to play horse power! The higher the ratio the less horse power you can effectively use for speed. Good luck I can't wait for the next episode.
Thank you👍
Rod in tube bump stopp. If you have a "dummy" suspension in line with the suspension you can have a bumpstop that works every time with now alingment issues
great build chris it looks amazing, i only worry about the small drive shafts at that angle
I don't think this builds ever going to win any beauty contests, but it looks like it's going to be a blast to drive. :D
If you can see anything from the drivers seat that is.. :D
Love the bump stop solution. Very nice!
What I love about you, is it is mostly trial and error!
Great work with the bump stops. You have a fun machine. Loking foward to seeing it in action.
I'd agree with a bunch of other commenters here that hydraulic steering might be an option. Costs would potentially be higher though...
Mike festiva on here did one. I have a Toro groundmaster mower/tractor with a hydrologic steer setup, can likely be done using used parts
Incredible stuff, and cool to take viewers on the journey. Never have I seen independent suspension components used to build solid axles. You know it would be cool to have the center diff in a square cage and 4-linked to the frame and where it only swung up and down, and then use the axles shafts as intended swung from sides of the square frame to the spindles…. A mono shock in the middle and coil overs on the swing arms ….
you need to clock your u-joints to prevent vibration/surging, pretty sweet build, and seeing this at full height, its like a jungle gym with an engine xD, its going to be a blast when you get it done
I have only watched some of your video so far but I am really enjoying it because I feel your pain so to speak. I just finished building my rock crawler tube chassis all custom with 14-bolt axles and you're running into so many of the same issues that I did you know Fabian it cutting it apart mocking it up and redoing it's a lot of work to get everything to fit and the tolerances are extremely close
I think what you were meaning to say when you were describing the suspension was, how much Articulation is in this suspension. If I'm remembering correctly, suspension setups with solid axles will articulate much more than a independent suspension system. Food for thought. Keep up the good work
Good build bro! Nothing great is ever accomplished without a lil trial & error.
That is quite the ghoulish chordal my friend. Love your videos.
You could put a 3rd bump stop dead center to limit the straight up and down movement and even have it stop lower than the other two. They’d still work when one corner goes up individually.
A computer program so you can design and change before or as you build would be a fantastic idea. I can’t think of any VM names of them but I know they are out there. You’re having fun and learning and at the end of the day that most important thing 😎😊
Your skills are next level bro. Keep up the great vids!!
Your builds are exponentially cooler then ever . Love these videos man
I love the 3D printed tube notching. Haha. Good old mig welding. 👌
GREAT!!! I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR ANOTHER VIDEO ON THIS! THANKS!!! ... "Come to think about it, nobody thinks outside the box like you do...in fact...hmmm, I don't think you have ever been trapped 'inside the box' in your entire life!"
I would hinge the roof bracing to make it simple to get in and out, whichever side you like to get in, hinge the other side...sorta like a cockpit on a plane. A simple & strong latch can keep it in place because the strength needs to keep it from crushing in towards your noggin.
Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México
th-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/w-d-xo.html
@@jorgeabrahamhernandez1209 escribir en Englais…no intention nada escribes!
Ok brother... I have 2 names for you.
"The Rock Hammock" or "Batman's Dragula"!
Still you standing back laughing at your creation is Priceless brother!
Every time I saw something that could be an issue, you addressed it as fast as I thought it. Great work, you need some larger tires though.
Looking really good, keep it up. I’m excited to see how it turns out. Great problem solving in those bump stops.
Called fazing the yokes 👍
If not done, one end will rotate differently to the other. Which causes the u-joints to bind up. Glad you know this 👍
Another awesome video, NEVER a letdown. This project is amazing and I can't wait to see this thing when it's final. Also great video editing, part of what makes this channel better than the rest, keep up the great work!!!
Now that I see the "final design" I realized what's wrong with it. The axles should be farther away from the frame (in a longitudinal direction, obviously), not directly below it. That way it can be lower to the ground while maintaining the same suspension travel.
It looks like a open-mouthed dog. Amazing work.
Its ALOT bigger than i was thinking!
Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México
th-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/w-d-xo.html
That's what she said...
@@bryduhbikeguy lol
Looks awesome. I'd look at the drive lines on your pickup because they all have to be clocked basically the same.
With many builds. Always places for improvement. No one learns without making mistakes.
The motor can always be upgraded.
Make the bump stop move with the shock. You could either clamp the stop to the outside of the shock, or have it tied to the top mount with a long piece of tubing that surrounds the shock, it would keep it from ever getting out of alignment.
This is probably highest thing i ever seen. It should be named 4WD EIFFEL TOWER.
The fact you do all that metal work in that shed is amazing..but the front shock issue will be solved with the plus 10" added to the front wheel base
You are so efficient would love to spend time on a build could learn so much
Make the shocks just strong enough to hold you and the buggy at about 50% travel, it will ride great and look more proportional
I was thinking that the wheels look tiny as well
Yep the tires could be 3 times as tall. 😄 Plus, don't know if you already know this, two of those directional tires are mounted wrong. Right good, left is wrong.
@@BillyJoeJimBob28 he mentioned that in the first build video. Guess he hasn't got back to the tire shop yet.
I would re design the axels and make them way more compact lower your shock mounting points on the axels lower you will gain twice the amount of travel and flex
Look at how all the air shocks buggy are set... 6-8 inch of up travel max.
more pressure in them, more height you got, but also more spring rate... Air is really progressive, you wont feel it much mid travel but the last 5-6 inch are gonna be worst.
You have to balance the ratio pressure/oil to achieve that, more oil, less air to achieve same height... but too much oil = hydro lock
I'm so Glad you've got the bump stops sorted it seemed they were annoying you👍👍👍👍😜😜😜🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
For the steering, an option would be to use hydraulics as it would mean that you do not have to faf around with linkages and universal joints, another way it to use electrics but that would put stress on the battery if the charging system wasn't sufficient.
Awesome Can't wait to see this thing rip 🔥👍✌️
You should look into installing limiting straps on the suspension too, help protect those expensive shocks
Chris i would have some some old leaf springs for the bump stop. just fix them where the bends in the springs opose each other. also cut the springs don't torch cut them will weaken the springs.
I'm getting so excited to see this sucker in action. This has to be your most ambitious build to date. How did you keep your cool through the whole bump so thing?? lol! Keep em coming! Great vid!
Chris, Really enjoyed meeting you. Keep up the great work!
Thanks man, great meeting y’all too
Stiffer suspension, not longer travel.....wrong suspension yet again. I still LOVE the work you do, brother! Not trying to hate, at all!! Keep going and you can figure it out!!!! Mad props!!!!
The terms your looking for is, full bump, full drop (or droop) and articulation. You could have used compressed air for your shock test, and if you were only going to be crawling air is fine as the shocks don't heat up much under slow movements. Props on you ingenuity and determination on this build. Bump stops are only usable on rear trailing arm (independent), and double a arm front suspension. Solid axle suspension plane of rotation change too much (with high articulation) to have a fixed frame bump stop .
This thing is badasss you always out do it love the vids man 💯💯
Your best project to date. Keep it up Chris.
12:23 A smile of a proud dad
Here’s and idea. Perhaps a boat steering system with a push pull cable would work. They are fairly reasonable and should be plenty strong for your application
I second the push pull cables. I remember Orange County Choppers used those on a gears of war trike.
Correct me if I’m wrong but couldn’t there be a chance of the cables being tangled in the axles?
No no nou mian, he need hydraulic steering system
@@titityytyler01 I agree with the hydraulic steering system
Love this build! At that hight it will be easier to work on :) Win Win
Can't wait to see it out on the trail maybe a Moab trip is in your future
Hydraulic stearing would be super cool if you could make it work ! Possibly run a pump off the chain drive and mount it as the chain tensioner? Also this could unlock possible 4 wheel stearing in the future!
this foot joint should always be mounted in the center, mid axle. reason being, when it's under a load and it has torque applied, it has a tendency to load one side of the output shaft of the rear end more than the other side, causing a gnarly vibration.
Link geometry will be the reason your axle is swinging and your bump stop contact area is moving.
When you fist pushed it out i thought you had built bunk beds on wheels. Glad you didnt and glad you sorted out the problems you had. I cant wait to see the next video, hopefully it stops raining very soon.
Bigger tires!! Nice work
Your next project should be an ultralight aircraft. I think you can manufacture a great one!
Foam shaft bump stops would help you out alot!
Jeez I like the Thor hammer you were going to use as a wheel stop
bro i love this build, i mean don't get me wrong every other build i crazy but this amazing. i think you should let the top be a hatch to get in and leave the sides. OVER ALL GOOD BUILD
They'll know ya when they see ya commin'! They'll be laughin' for miles around!!
This badass machine need’s badass tiers!!!👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Reminds me of the lifted go kart days
Put the bump stops below the winch area that keeps it all contained and allows u to make it anyway u want
Name: Jungle Gym Or Jungle Jim! Its cool makes your wheels look dwarf like though... :) Great job!
I freaking dig this build
i suggest to instal the choc absorber in a V chape it will be more viral and away of the tire where the bump stop can be installed more easier
The highlight of my Sunday 🙌
Why not directly on that massive shock? No need for a separate bump stop location. Always on point of connection no matter what angle.
The driveshaft slip joint is called a Slip Yoke. For the rack steering shaft to the rack and pinion you'll most likely need a collapsing steering shaft which can be made out of 1" DD steering shaft. Lots of places sell the parts including Flaming River, Summit, Sweet Mfg., Borgeson, etc.
You read my mind on the winch placement
I'd recommend moving the shock mounts on the axle assembly to as low as possible, this means the top shock mounts can be mounted lower down
that thing is going to be sick dude
great one as always love your builds
Dude, you crack me up. It's definitely cool