4WD Mini Rock Bouncer Build Suzuki SV 650 Part 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Today I'm starting a new build a 4WD mini rock bouncer using a Suzuki sv650 for the powerplant. This Suzuki sv650 v twin makes about 75hp and should be perfect for this mini rock bouncer! In the first part I'm fabricating hub adapters for the wheels and looking at the general layout. I'm also starting on the front suspension layout and spindles and ball joints. If you have any suggestions for this build let me know in the comments below!
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The drive pulley is always hooked to crank shaft , spinning at crank speed , if you put it on outer shaft it will have to be in 6th gear to get the same speed . 1st gear might not be fast enough for the drive pulley to engage
Wow. I hope he sees this. That is very true and a major flaw he overlooked. I never would've thought of that until I read your comment. I think it won't even engage unless he's revving the shit out of it. I really think sprockets are the best option
Was just thinking this same thing..cvt operates between certain engine rpm so it seems to me all other gears will be useless
@@kristinewilson5353 4th , 5th , and 6th gear will only be usefull . he will need a large front sprocket and the smallest sprocket on the drive pulley
@@ah617006 the 1st 2 or 3 gears wide open may not engage belt .
I said this last video- Been watching this kid for years, not sure he reads or gives a shit about his comments- Sometimes I honestly just think he makes ridiculous or outrageous vehicles just to get more people to watch & to see if it fails - You'd think he'd realize after building so many Karts & buggies you cant treat a primary clutch as a secondary -
Time for an electric hydraulic tubing bender lol
This is my favorite build yet. Ty!
I have a side by side with a CVT and I've been tuning it with aftermarket weights, sliders and springs all summer, trying to get it just right. One thing I've learned and picked up on during all this is that these clutches are extremely tunable down to very small changes you barely feel.
I think that by putting the primary pulley on a jack shaft, you could be limiting it a little. I'm wondering if any lower gears would allow it to engage at all, actually. 2k RPM on your lathe didn't budge it.
I like the idea and it's always awesome to explore these things, but I'm thinking if it doesn't work well you could always get some heavier weights and different spring that allows for lower RPM engagement.
Love it so far man, thanks again!
Put the engine on a hinge. hinge pin in the front, with adjusting bolts that raise and lower the back of the engine. That's your chain tensioner.
i was going to suggest this exact thing with a slight modification, slide plate with locking pins or bolts to keep the engine from flopping against the chain
That wont work
@@mattmaly5085 your comment is truly inspiring to fabricators.🤔
@@mattmaly5085 A way to be helpful would be to give a reason why you believe that it wouldn't work and if within your capabilities, a better solution.
@@mattmaly5085 It will absolutely work.
You always figure it out Brother. The fact that you build ALL THIS AWESOME STUFF by yourself is nothing short of miraculous. Keep up the great work and be safe :)
I agree 100 percent, this young man is a helluva fabricator 👍
Yup, when he says "I'll try to see if I can do it" I know damn well he will get it done, one way or a another.
I concur, I am an OG here and I have watched him grow from a foul mouthed sketchy kid to a total badass building something from nothing...I ain't complaining about the language, I just didn't want him to be shooting himself in the foot with sponsors and TH-cam...hell, I'm a retired trucker, and y'all know that we can be quite colorful when we get around a bunch of guys...
I'm with everyone here. Amazing work, super fun to watch the fabrication ability
@@kerrypierre9494 Agreed my Friend :)
You need to watch Donn DIY he made a utv and had a wooden structure to build it on to keep everything were he wanted it. This would save you a lot of headaches try to keep thing were you want them. Keep up the good work love your build videos
Exactly a wood build table/frame or more jigs to hold things in place would decrease the frustration and effort.
Yeah that was a pretty clever little thing he did
Donn is also amazing at what he does these guys should collaborate somehow 🤙🏻
Odd comment from someone you don't know but I am actually proud of you. This is very impressive. As soon as I started thinking about you losing expansion room on the driven pully, you thought of a solution by machining away the spacers width to compensate.
This reminds me of a Robot Cantina's 420cc Honda Insight swap where he kept the car's gearbox and added a CVT. For faster acceleration, you may be better off taking off from 3rd gear or so. I can't wait to see the end results.
Chris your front differential runs off a driveshaft with two universal joints. I'd say it would be ok to set it in the middle of the front end.
It would technically be fine yes but the is a percentage of the rotational speed lost depending on the angle of the drive shaft having it straight would also keep vibration down
You should get yourself 2 pieces of 8" I-beam about 8 feet long to use as a frame jig. It's super easy to tack pieces anywhere you need to hold everything in place. Keep up the great work Chris!
Bump this!
Build an adjustable universal jackstand that bolts to your spindles and build your front ends without tires.
Really likes this idea.
It’s your world, Chris. We are just living in it. Don’t worry about the haters and keep up the amazing work. 🤙
I use scrap pieces of wood to make jigs and screw to the floor. Now in a shop with concrete floor and a 4x4 diesel golf cart in the works so going to make a plywood base to build on. Your videos have been very helpful. Thanks and keepem coming.
Chain tensioner is a must. Going to be a killer ride.
That initial bit of welding on the front, was like watching you trying to herd cats, while patting your head and rubbing your stomach. Probably more than a few people, that wished they could just reach through the screen and steady stuff for you.
I'm with you there John!
Yup, me too...I'd hang out with him and just hold shit...part of the problem with getting to know some of these guys is all of the clout chasers...people who genuinely want to help usually get lumped in with the trolls and assholes...
I want to yell at him sometimes. He may need to graduate from bricks and stumps to a simple jig at some point.
Where are yu @???am the best w/shop assistant there ever was
Wrap a rope or something around your rafters to hold objects upright. This buggy is going to be awesome.
I said the same.
Hey Chris have you ever thought about making big welding table not high just for the frame height and then you can make any Jig ,I see how your struggle some times and I think it would be a cool project ,I’ve had a table myself 3mx6m and 50cm high it was awesome ,added some ramps as well,Keep up the good work 💪🏻Damian From Poland 🇵🇱
Lol where is he going to put it in that shed lol.
Whatever you pay to ALWAYS have kick ass tunes on your vids, money well spent!
I'm glad you edited your stuggles in the video,most people edit that stuff out. Glad you got through it.
All those polaris clutches are almost the same .. they can all take 100+hp .. cheers .. can't wait to see how that works .. keep up the great work
You should try using brass shim around the axle when you put it in the lathe when you want to dial it in on the 4 jaw chuck. It often makes it clamp up being straight and true easier and makes adjusting the axle in the lathe easier!
I can't give you enough credit. You are good.
I LOVE THAT BUILD !!!!!
Saw sv650 in the title and im actually picking up a 2008 suzuki sv650 on Friday for a low $600. Bikes in great shape with a title and low mileage. Just sitting for a year so needs a battery and fresh fuel/fluids and should be good to go. Great motors with plenty of pep especially as light at the sv650 is. Should be great for this application as well.
I think you dont read these but that sliding linc on the suspension was a cleaver idea!
29:15 "Doesn't engage though..." This is foreshadowing if I ever saw it.
Although nobody is gonna care , it was my understanding that you want the belt the sit about a 1/4 to an 1/8 proud on the secondary clutch. So he probably didn’t need to mess with it.
I agree lol but he is learning hands on and has the skills to correct his mistakes later.
@@rarbaugh07 I agree
You should mount the motor on the right side of the drivers seat like full size rock bouncers
My thought exactly.
That guy sending u stuff is awesome
Could use aluminum to make it lighter and some gas to get rid of the grease, use vinegar to disinfect wounds.
If you're using independent differentials for you solid axle build you should raise the diff cases for more ground clearance. Also move the engine to the rear so you have somewhere to sit and drive the primary clutch directly off the splined output shaft of the motorcycle trans. Look for a splined output adapter used on Legend cars. Then run your cvt belt forward to drive the secondary clutch. Doing so you will have no chain to adjust. The 1st couple gears of the bike Trans might be useless because the primay cvt clutch won't engage until 2000+ rpm.
Going over 500K subs soon. You deserve it! And you have done it by yourself. Always quality stuff. 👍
You're a mad man and I love it! Keep being crazy Chris!
Just want you to know that I watched this episode in the delivery room I almost finished it before she had to start pushing.
Great work your awesome man. I'm a machinist for a living and find your full of great ideas keep it up.
You at least one helper to do the work.
I love his little shop little shop puts out big toys!!!
Chris if you want this to be a rock crawler how are you going to get it to engage at low speed if 2000 rpm's wouldn't engage it on your lathe . And instead of a roller tensioner for the chain ,make it a sprocket tensioner instead. I love how the build is going I cant wait to see it done. Keep up the great work and God Bless you. I hope your arm feels better, I know those wire wheels hurt lol. 🔥💯💪🏼👍👍🙏🙏✌😊✌
16:50 well hello mr caterpillar
Take the clutch and make a curve adjustment slot that doesn't affect the belt during adjustment. So an upward back curve to adjust chain to engine
I am in awe watching you work, I could never have built anything like this when I was your age and as for that I couldn't do it now at my age. Do you do any drawings or do you just build it as you go? Anyway I think you are an awesome fabricator and I am surprised some company has not made you an offer you couldn't refuse.
I used to make axles.The straighteners had a press with adjustable width V-blocks and a couple gauges like you used to check roundness.1 to 1-1/4 thousandth was acceptable.You Need a 2nd jack-shaft so the engine to CVT will be 2-1 at least or it won't turn until 4th revved out.Love the look of the ride so far.
Scrap 2×4s and some deck screws sure do come in handy for making large holding fixtures for stuff like holding those tires in place while you weld stuff.
By next week...u will be at 500k 🎉🎉🎉
What would you think about making it a 2 seater? And possibly make the 2nd seat weighted when you’re riding solo, and be able to remove what ever you have as a weight, when you have a 2nd rider?
Or you could make it so you sit on the left side (just like a everyday vehicle) and make the opposite side weighted with battery, cable chassis, cooler, cooler for drinks, radiator, etc, etc.???
It would mean you would have to push the sides of the frame out a bit, but you would be able to make it symmetrical and evenly spaced.
Just a thought.
Love watching you craft a usable vehicle out of ideas! It gives us all a lot of encouragement!
It’s looking good !
shes coming together!!!!
Two things. Your parents must be amazed at what you come up with and accomplish. The gearing ratio range will be tremendous.
Seems like an easy solution is to also put slots in the motor mount so you can tension the belt first, then the chain last. To move the engine just use the same approach with motorcycle rear wheel. Sitting way in the back is going to suck for some driving. If you can't see over the front end, it might be trouble. Also, the softest ride will be the middle between the front and rear wheels.
Use an idler sprocket for your chain tensioner. They aren't any louder than the sprockets themselves and they last forever.
Maybe... wooden cradles for the tires? with locking cart-wheels, might be handy.
Unless that your differentials are stationary you are going to need slip yoke's on your driveshafts. If the axle is up on one side and not the other there is always lengthening and shortening in the driveline. Monster trucks rock crawlers anything you can mention always has a differential driveshaft that has a slip yoke
a propeller spline if im not wrong
Do like a laid out seat so you’re legs are over the transmission with your butt behind the trans and build a nice scatter shield for the CVT like the yard kart has on it.
Man you deserve the world for your hard work,no joke much love from the caribbean brother❤❤🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹
I can show you the world
Shining, shimmering, splendid
Tell me, princess, now when did
You last let your heart decide?
I can open your eyes
Take you wonder by wonder
Over, sideways and under
On a magic carpet ride
A whole new world
A new fantastic point of view
No one to tell us, "No"
Or where to go
Or say we're only dreaming
A whole new world
A dazzling place I never knew
But when I'm way up here
It's crystal clear
That now I'm in a whole new world with you
(Now I'm in a whole new world with you)
Unbelievable sights
Indescribable feeling
Soaring, tumbling, freewheeling
Through an endless diamond sky
A whole new world (don't you dare close your eyes)
A hundred thousand things to see (hold your breath, it gets better)
I'm like a shooting star, I've come so far
I can't go back to where I used to be
A whole new world
With new horizons to pursue
I'll chase them anywhere
There's time to spare
Let me share this whole new world with you
A whole new world (a whole new world)
A new fantastic point of view
No one to tell us, "No"
Or where to go
Or say we're only dreaming
A whole new world (every turn, a surprise)
With new horizons to pursue (every moment, red-letter)
I'll chase them anywhere, there's time to spare
And then we're home (there's time to spare)
Let me share this whole new world with you
A whole new world (a whole new world)
That's where we'll be (that's where we'll be)
A thrilling chase (a wondrous place)
For you and me
Slot your motor mounts and use either 2 hydraulic hood/tailgate lift supports or 2 threaded tensioners, that way you aren't changing your engine position geometry therfore not effecting oil flow or smooth operation
Screw some boards to the floor for bracing. Triangulate them and clamp the tires to them. Lay it all out one the floor with chalk lines
Saya dari Indonesian . Semangat terus bro.. i like your job
I've use kids Play-Doh to took inside measure to the tapered shaft,first i put lube all over in then little metal stick where are a cap so play doh its easier to pull out when its ready then just take measure and lathe stuff out.
Hay Chris just get the chain close and adjust it with different size front sprocket 13 tooth 14 tooth etc. The cvt will make up the little difference
Check out how a gunsmith has the back part of their lathe spindle set up to help you with indicating those longer parts. It's usually a simple bushing or threaded insert with a bolt every 90 degrees so you can indicate on both sides of the spindle. I'm sure this will also be the 100th comment telling you to use a center in your tailstock when you have that much sticking out of the chuck, but it will make getting a good surface finish much easier, and reduce those high spots on your tapers. Saving you time.
a "lathe spider" is the part for back of the spindle
@@joshc1590 That's the word. Thank you.
I’m Liking these longer videos
I should’ve mentioned this in an earlier video, but I’d recommend putting the engine in the back, and sitting in the front. That way, you aren’t wrapping your legs around the transmission/engine. It would also be a bit better for weight distribution.
On a side note, I saw your video, and remembered something. I have an old Chevy Smallblock that’s in parts right now, and I have no plans to use it. If you want, I could put it together, get it running, and ship it to ya for use in a later project. If you’re interested, we could work out details of parts, such as electronics, fuel injection, aspiration, etc.
I'm frikkin dying to see the endresult😛
somebody get this man some more bricks to hold his stuff in place while he welds
I think sitting behind the transfer case would work to help balance out the weight of the engine
An overhead hoist is a shop's best friend, but I must say your footwork and balancing is pretty nice
make wooden stands that the hubs bolt to at the right Hight this will hold them while you do whats needed and can be used for other projects wood jigs are simpler as it is easer to drill shape etc
I love the ambition. A lesser man would have given up and fabbed a sprocket to the secondary transmission, skipping the secondary clutch/cvt system.
I'm worried the (anti-twist) support beam for the front 4-link will bind with articulation. Is this a temporary solution?
Secondly, you're going to want those driveshafts to have a slip built in. As the suspension droops that distance between the "transfer case" and the differential will get longer.
Awesome build, can't wait to see it on the trails.
A little advice on your clutches... get a scotchbrite pad and clean the inside of the sheaves with the scotchbrite pad and some brake parts cleaner... go in a circular motion. It will allow your belt to grip better. Go easy on the throttle to allow your belt and clutches to break in the first 25 miles before you go full throttle.
Shoutout to the caterpillar making it's entrance at 17:45
I've seen several videos talking about a skateboard wheel for a chain tensioner gear and having great results.
For future reference, you could clamp a trestle to each respective wheel and use those to force it to stay in position during the assembly/innovation/creation/construction phase ;)
Also, I've seen others make this suggestion, but the size of everything there makes me think you may find the best seating and engine/gearbox position would be "side by side"...
It would involve a little redesign but it should help balance things out and eliminate the risk of either you or the running gear being located in crazy precarious positions?
Tire supports.
Use angle iron on the floor going infront of the tread and behind with uprights off each of the outside to tire with a clamp over the top of the tire. Screw assembly to the floor to keep stationary. This also gives you mounting points for frame jigs and suspension jigs.
Not 100% shure if posible. Make an extended axle for your modified pully, so your could move over the transmision to the right. also moving the front drive shaft to the right so the motor may be able to sit lower?
For the people commenting telling him he's doing it all wrong, tell him what's wrong and how he could fix it, just telling him it's wrong does not help him fix it in any way.
Hey Chris, you need a shop assistant? Lol, watching everything move around on you made me want to reach out and just hold it for you.
Thanks to you Fumbling and Foolery. I've decided to start my Own Fabrication channel...
If you had any rafters, you could string up some rope over top of each tire to hold them up.
If the jack shaft rotates around a slot that has its center point of the radius centered with the secondary, you can tension the chain while maintaining the same belt tension
Nice work on the lathe!
Motor mount pivot. Raise either the front or rear of the engine for fine sprocket tension adjustment.
I'd say either build a ground based clamp for setting up and stabilization or cinder blocks. Other than that, get a buddy to help. (Montana is too far to travel, but I'd be closer to my kids)
You really put the peddle to the metal as far as total parts fabricated and assembled.
A little Pantera cemetery gates remix??? Nice
Ied say take a peak at some rc crawler's 1/10 scale rock bouncer up to comp crawling I think u would get tons of help. If you see how a crawler kit is put together. Nice build one of my favorites yet!!! If u lived n Missouri I would lend a hand. Hate to see you struggling... Keep up the builds very few on internet to match!
Can't wait till it's done
the engines specs are peak torque at 7200 rpm 47 ft.lbs and peak power at 9000 and 72 hp, with that chain-cvt pulley set up the primary your using engagement is 4500-5000 rpm this is going to be an interesting setup this should be very interesting to see in action
Ratchet strap with 2x4s on top and bottom of tires to hold it upright
Build a jack stand with threaded rod to adjust the height you want and a clamp to hold it
This thing is gonna be badass
You should try to get someone to sponsor a jig table you really need it!!
Put the motor mount closest to the drive train on a large pivot/cradle then set the front mount in a way that allows for adjustment up and down to fine tune the chain tension. Then just a little up and down for fine tune but swing out bolt to remove and install the chain. Kinda like the motor/belt drive a Hardinge lathe.
You have a lot more patience than I do
You might want to do some research on primary clutch spring tension. Find a spring that takes less RPM’s to engage. That way you’ll be able to use more gears in your primary transmission if that’s what you have in mind. But more than likely you will only be able to use 2 - 3 gears otherwise the motor will either lug down or it’ll over rev trying to keep the belt engaged.
Good advice
It's a bit late now. How about putting the engine in the back and the jackshaft under the transmission. Then have a second jackshaft to route chain forwards. You could tension from there also.
That would open up the whole front for seating and controls.
On polaris clutches the line of stitching on the belt should run on the od of the secondary clutch so the outter ribs sit outside of the clutch
You have invented a new measurement metric : THE BRICK…
CVT setup has been used for decades on French mopeds peugeot 103SP and MBK 51
You might want to take a look at full size tube chassis rock crawler to find your seating position. Also you might want to think about steering. You might want to think about a small hydraulic cylinder/ram to help with steering. These are just a couple of ideas.
Bart
Just so you know if you have any parts down the road those Polaris front struts have what’s called Hillard clutches in them and there’s a 12 V magnet you need to Power to engage the four-wheel-drive and they take special fluid from Polaris and they are known to leak
You could try using a sprocket to run between the upper and lower chain to spread them apart keeping the top chain in a straight line so you dont put any stress on the tensioner.
A 3 link on the front would be sexy. could wrap around the engine easier too.
Primary pulley on top the secondary the motor close as possible. Like the out the norm idea but keep all ind sus and loose the belt for the 3spd trans again. Motor at one end driver on the other.
This has been the greatest bloopers reel yet :P
The lone wolf fabrication struggle is real.
That begining was hilarious 😂 hey but you always figure it out and don't give up and have awesome builds