I can't wait to start using this machine in my knife builds! I'm currently making a 7'' takedown bowie, and have already found value in being able to get things flat easily. Mainly the ricasso, bevels, and spine. If you're interested in any of these components; I did my best to clearly list them in this video's description. Cheers 🙌 - Oh and also; If you're interested in the BA Vander Sander you can save some money with promo code = redbeardops
Great video! You did a very good job explaining everything in a way that's easy to understand. Just a side note if you want the forward / reverse to go the other way just flip any two of the tree wires connected to U,V, or W on the VFD. So if you have 1,2,3 hooked to U,V,W you could do 2,1,3 or 1,3,2 to U,V,W. This will flip the direction of the motor. This is 100% safe and true for all three phase motors. :)
Another perfectly timed video. I bought a 9” disk with 1° bevel from Beaumont a couple months ago. I stated searching for a motor and VFD on Amazon earlier this week. I am planning on making my own stand, but that Beck Armory kit sure is nice! Thanks James!
Nice video. You can't have too many tools in the shop. You did a great build of the grinder. You will use your new grinder more than you think. Be safe
Heck yeah man. I will say... this thing is a time saver from what I can tell. On the hand sanding side and getting stuff flat (scales, guards, etc)... Seems like a better use of funds than say a SGA in my opinion. (While I do like my surface grinding attachment.... )
I would recommend a larger gauge wire than 14awg for this. The vfd's power requirements are right at the limits of that wire size. 12awg would be better suited for this application. This is just a recommendation I want everyone to stay as safe as possible.
Great video I literally have this kit and everything to build it in house just have to put it all together and this video will add significantly in that thank you for sharing man
@@armadilloforge Yeah, I feel like for the knife maker.. you really need variable speed and reversable to make this a game changer machine for your shop
Another great video with easy step by step instructions. Thanks again RBO. I really need one of these 😁 I’m still on my first knife build because I’m struggling to get my handles flat!
Thanks Garry. Man, I was shocked at how versatile this thing is... I think the key is the VFD giving the ability to slow it down and reverse it. Very handy
Excellent build series. A bit late for me as I got a disc grinder setup last year, but going to look at that tilt setup as I can see a lot of benefit for it. Going to send this link to my buddy as I know he doesnt have a disc grinder setup yet
@@RedBeardOps I've not gotten to use mine yet. Been setting up a new shop. 2 month project that turned into the better part of a year, but I'm 90% done now. These kinds of builds you put out should be standard viewing for any knifemaker. While this one came a little late for me, the electro etch one came at the perfect time for me as have others you've done.
Another great video (You're setting the bar high ; ). I'm in Phoenix with temps up to 118° Fahrenheit, and consistently over 110° in the summer. We will see how the fully enclosed VFD works. I may put some vent holes with a filter on mine to allow more air circulation. With the cheap VFDs, I'm not sure if there's going to be much overheating protection and I'm unsure what will happen if it overheats. Anyone else have a fully enclosed box without vents in temperatures above 100°?
Usually the manual has advice about the installation position and ventilation clearances. Here are some spooky warning notes from the Siemens devices I use, f.e. SINAMICS V20. (Okay, they are another price-class and they have proper over-current and over-temperature protection, just by the way:) ). Maybe it helps: 1. Fire due to insufficient ventilation clearances Inadequate ventilation clearances can lead to overheating of components and result in a subsequent fire with the development of smoke. This can cause severe bodily harm or death. Furthermore, increased failures and shortened lifetime of devices/systems. • Adhere to the minimum clearances specified for each component ventilation spaces. 2. Overheating if installed in an inadmissible position If the installation position is not permitted, the device can overheat and be damaged as a result. • Only operate the device in approved installation positions. 3. with assembly instructions and dimensions. 4. Two pages of warning codes related solely to overtemperature of the various components of the drive or motor. ... typical for us Germans, right? Hehehe. I hope this helps somewhat for your considerations and that the manual of your device does have such advice, too. Oh and filters are a must have, you mentioned them. Especially when the device is mounted without enclosure ( although that enclosure doesn't protect anything from the following). Machine Shop = Oil and micro-metal-chips in the air! So make sure that your filter mats are also oil-tight. Check them at least once a year and then change them if needed, yes? :) Nitpicks: Professionals (NO, anyone should, hehe!) use a fuse before the frequency converter (VFD) that corresponds to the nominal input current and is mandatory. The fuse in your house connection box only protects the line to the device. The fuses should be of the semi-conductor type or have a fast-fast tripping characteristic. Incidentally, the whole thing is completed with a 3-phase circuit breaker at the output, which limits it to the rated current of the motor. One may think, that sounds too much ... and expensive. But compare the price of the protective devices against the VFD, the motor and the cables or the damage by a possible fire ... or the work you have (again!) when something of that is defect and you have the repair and exchange it. Edit: I've had a few years in maintenance under my belt. I have never come across a broken motor that had such a circuit breaker on the output side[1]. For example, if the mechanism is overloaded, when something falls in or gets blocked. That's what those protective measures are there for. With machines that we hadn't designed and didn't have these protective devices, it has happened that the motor, control unit and lines had to be replaced after a mechanical blockage.That I forgot to mention ... the most important reason for using such circuit technology:) (And not speaking about the safety issues that a unprotected free running device pictures ...) [1] Not talking about the usual suspects, wear and tear and the normal service life. Ironic: Nice that they provided a PICTURE of a proper motor terminal block, but not the physical device, ouch ... Hehehe. (Image-Search for "motor connection block star/delta") Edit2: Yes (as Red Beard mentioned at the end). BIG RED EMERGENCY Stop is the first thing you should design and screw in:) BTW wonderful project, Red Beard. Thanks for the video!:)
@@RedBeardOps Something important: The (separable!) hinge of the ammo box cannot be considered as a reliable connection with regard to protective earth[2]. The idea with the screw was good(wait, we use her and her twin-sister later). But(!) ... the 45-degree bent terminal is just as bad because the terminals are simply not suitable for it[1]. My suggestion: Use such a great screw again at the bottom of the housing as a distributor (then it is already grounded). There we wire the supply line, then one to the converter, one to the motor and one to the cover(your existing one besides the switch). This is called star point wiring and is the correct procedure for wiring the protective earth. As a rule of thumb, we leave the protective conductor one and a half times as long as the other wires in the cable for supply lines that lead out of the housing and must be protected by strain relief(Very important for cables that can be moved, e.g. to be plugged into a socket). In the event of a mechanical accident, this ensures the latest demolition. Last but not least, for screwing protective earth connections: washers and snap rings are a MUST! Then even I am happy and silent ... :) [1] There are dual cable shoes and ferrules on the market ... but not for this use case here. [2] The conductivity is guaranteed here by pure coincidence and luck. Both folks we don't want to rely on in electrical engineering, right?
Great build. 1. I haven't been able to locate any information on the cooling fan. 2. Brian hooked up his Motor for 3 phase/Cheap VFD with 220 plug, is there any difference with running the 120V you are working with here? Couple questions for you! You and Brian are going to cost me a fortune! Thanks for the videos and your time, its greatly appreciated! Steve
LOL, you got it all wrong. You have to do what my wife does when she goes shopping and told me how much money I saved by her buying stuff on sale. Brian and I are saving you money by laying out how to build the equipment ;) ;) My unit has no cooling fan in it. Running on 120 derates the motor some... so it won't be as powerful.
Have built the box and will attach the motor tonight to test everything. Waiting on the disc (backordered?) and the Beck Armory kit to show. Stuck in transit somewhere. Taking a long time. Video and instructions are top notch! Thanks. Wish me luck! Any suggestions or changes since building it?
So it was only partially DIY, a kit you put together. I built mine completely from scratch and one day will make a sword from a couple old chainsaw bars I have.
Must the ground also be grounded to the ammo case? Or is it not enough to have the ground from the wall connected to the ground of the VFD which is connected to the ground of the motor.
Great video, and great job putting it together, but I’m not seeing the strategic advantage here. Couldn’t you have picked up a used Grizzly large disc sander for less money/time spent on this project?
Yes, with a disc grinder you really don't need the high speed. I haven't ran it more than have power yet for ricasso and bevel flattening yet. 3600 would be way too fast IMO
I guess my disc grinder doesn't have a large enough diameter, because I always run into a problem with the center grinding less because it's moving slower than the outside...meaning the piece closer to me gets ground more aggressively. The difference in grinding speed ends up making my stuff slightly convex, so I end up using a 4" belt instead :/
I see what you're saying. It does slow down towards the center for sure! Most of the actually grinding on the bevel seems to be happening on the outer diameter. Which is why I'm moving the blade towards the outsides. It will take me time to get used to this machine for sure!
@@RedBeardOps I think if I had a big enough diameter I might have better luck, and having a slight bevel might help some too (then again, if it was big enough, I wouldn't have to worry about going past center as much). How does it compare to the surface grinder? That setup seemed to produce some really flat results.
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper I think if someone is needed to make a choice between this and a surface grinding attachment for their shop... they should go with the disc grinder.
@@RedBeardOps Makes sense if you put it that way, a disc grinder like yours really doesn't take up a lot of room and seems to be useful for more than just magnetic parts. I have access to a huge surface grinder that I use with steel, but I've yet to figure out a way to make it work with non-magnetic scales.
For sure, they both have their place! What I'm finding with the disc is that it reduced the amount of bevel hand sanding I need to do. And of course does a better job at flattening than a flat platen. But I wouldn't trade in my 2x72 for sure! LOL
I just wired up one of those VFDs this weekend and noticed the weird labeling. I did the opposite of you and followed what was on the board at first and had to reverse everything. I kept mine in its plastic case in the ammo can. Is it better to take it out like you did?
Hey Jon, I don't see an issue with keeping it in the plastic case. I just did what Brian House did. Seemed like the plastic case wasn't needed anymore.
@@RedBeardOps ok cool. Once I had it working I did wonder if it would overheat being in the can and in my hot garage. I was planning on using my old motor to make a disc grinder but now after watching your video I want it on a VFD lol. Thanks again!
Thanks for the links man!!! I've been needing to upgrade things in my shop (currently using a treadmill motor and controller for my 2×72)...even with currency conversion, shipping and duties, the motor and VFD should be about 1/3 the cost I would pay from suppliers in canada...what speed motor would you recommend for a 2×72 ???
@@RedBeardOps thanks...I've seen conflicting information on the speed, citing higher torque from the lower rpm...but they don't explain how a 1750 rpm motor can exceed its rated speed, simply by connecting to a VFD
@@jamesafseth326 The way I understand it is =>> if you're running a 3600 rpm motor at 1/4 speed it's going to have less torque than if you're running a 1750 RPM motor at 3/4 speed. But if you're grinding at 3600 RPM frequently, you'll maintain that torque. There are curves that show this I think for each motor.
@@RedBeardOps most of my grinding is at full speed (4500 on a 2hp DC treadmill motor, with 4" drive)..I slow it down to about half as I move up in grit..what I hate about my system, is that if I remove the blade too fast from the belt, the treadmill VFD will shut down the motor (like it's sensing that the user fell off the treadmill 😂)..that's the biggest reason I need to upgrade to a proper motor and VFD
Hey James…looks awesome! Can’t wait to order one. Did you get the original version or V2? I just looked at Richard’s website and saw he has a V2 now. Not sure what the difference is.
The idea behind a 1 degree beveled disc is to prevent your knife from hitting the other side of the disc. So one side is going down (that's the side you want to grind on) and the other side is going up (the side you don't want to grind on). This bevel should help with really long blades.
Hello buddy, how are you? I'm from Brazil and importing your product is very expensive. Would you just sell me his plans so I can have them laser cut here in my country? Thank you in advance for your attention. Leonardo Augusto
Hey Leonardo, contact Richard at Beck's Armory and he can get you sorted out. Cheers - (I think you can buy just the plans on there) becksarmory.com/becksarmory.com/product/b-a-vander-sander-kit/?ref=1082
I can't wait to start using this machine in my knife builds! I'm currently making a 7'' takedown bowie, and have already found value in being able to get things flat easily. Mainly the ricasso, bevels, and spine. If you're interested in any of these components; I did my best to clearly list them in this video's description. Cheers 🙌 - Oh and also; If you're interested in the BA Vander Sander you can save some money with promo code = redbeardops
It takes a brave man to run a 4-40 tap in a blind hole with a drill. Great video as usual!
LOL, you're right. That hole was slightly over sized, so it wasn't too bad. Have a great weekend Gary! Cheers
Great video! You did a very good job explaining everything in a way that's easy to understand. Just a side note if you want the forward / reverse to go the other way just flip any two of the tree wires connected to U,V, or W on the VFD. So if you have 1,2,3 hooked to U,V,W you could do 2,1,3 or 1,3,2 to U,V,W. This will flip the direction of the motor. This is 100% safe and true for all three phase motors. :)
Very cool, thanks you sir!
I have not made the plunge into knifemaking but your channel is one of the favorites for solid information and quality content. Thank you!
Thank you greatly Hans! And good luck with your new hobby... you're going to love it.
Good Vid :) I've seen several makers use these but don't have one myself. They seem to speed up and improve several operations.
Thanks man; and yeah... so far I'm pretty darn impressed
Thank you - this video was super helpful in setting up the disc grinder stand & even more helpful in wiring up the VFD. Appreciate the help!
Great to hear!
That’s awesome!! I want one!
Man, I gotta say; I should of listened to others and gotten one of these sooner.
Ammo cans are like miniature shipping containers - incredibly versatile. Great looking grinder too!
Man they really are... so robust and useful for the hobbiest. Thank you Todd!
VERY USEFUL MACHINE IN THE WORKSHOP
I agree!
Great build!!! Those two guys are awesome for this community! (You’re not so bad yourself either lol!!!!)
Thanks Jeffrey!
Awesome grinder, love the vertical and horizontal features. Thanks for articulating the process in a manner that was easy to listen to and follow.
Glad you enjoyed it! The tilting really nice a nice feature, I agree
Another perfectly timed video. I bought a 9” disk with 1° bevel from Beaumont a couple months ago. I stated searching for a motor and VFD on Amazon earlier this week. I am planning on making my own stand, but that Beck Armory kit sure is nice! Thanks James!
Good luck with your build!
Thanks for sharing.
Personally I think you watch his video and you can pick up the mistakes in the video and I pickup good tips
Nice video. You can't have too many tools in the shop. You did a great build of the grinder. You will use your new grinder more than you think. Be safe
Thanks Will! I bet I will.. this is one of those tools that would have been nice in the beginning. Very versatile.
Awesome build, I am starting mine this week. Thanks for all the love and support James! Cheers! @becksarmory
Heck yeah, cheers Brian. Glad you liked this one. Very useful piece of kit for sure!
Nice build
Glad you think so!
That's awesome! I will definitely start saving up so I can make one!
Heck yeah man. I will say... this thing is a time saver from what I can tell. On the hand sanding side and getting stuff flat (scales, guards, etc)... Seems like a better use of funds than say a SGA in my opinion. (While I do like my surface grinding attachment.... )
Nice addition. And as always, thanks for your tutorials. 👍🍻
Glad you're enjoying them!
I would recommend a larger gauge wire than 14awg for this. The vfd's power requirements are right at the limits of that wire size. 12awg would be better suited for this application. This is just a recommendation I want everyone to stay as safe as possible.
Never a bad idea to over build
That's is a nice build. You made it look simple to understand. Thanks for another awesome video!
Glad you liked it! Thanks Charles
Cheers mate! This helped me make my mind up. Much appreciated.
Glad I could help
Well done James!👍🏻
Thanks man!
Great video I literally have this kit and everything to build it in house just have to put it all together and this video will add significantly in that thank you for sharing man
Heck yeah! Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your build
Was curious how the motor is holding up. I'm about to purchase a motor for a disc grinder, thanks!
So far so good! Still working great!
Oh yeah....Nice!
Thanks man. This thing is awesome.... would have saved me so much time over the last few years...
@@RedBeardOps I had a Harbor Freight for a few years. This new one at a variable speed should be great. Denton county here, gonna be HOT!
@@armadilloforge Yeah, I feel like for the knife maker.. you really need variable speed and reversable to make this a game changer machine for your shop
Great job buddy thanks
Thanks Don!
Another great video with easy step by step instructions. Thanks again RBO. I really need one of these 😁 I’m still on my first knife build because I’m struggling to get my handles flat!
Thanks Garry. Man, I was shocked at how versatile this thing is... I think the key is the VFD giving the ability to slow it down and reverse it. Very handy
@@RedBeardOps Make me wish I lived in USA because post to the UK would cost about the same as the item 😂
@@gavsgav90 OUCH! That's a lot of freight cost!
very nice, but maybe you should put an air intake for the vfd box. two holes with dust filters..
I've heard of other users who have done this exact set up without issue. I'm going to ride it and see what happens. Cheers Eric!
Excellent build series. A bit late for me as I got a disc grinder setup last year, but going to look at that tilt setup as I can see a lot of benefit for it. Going to send this link to my buddy as I know he doesnt have a disc grinder setup yet
Very cool sir! I tell you what a disc grinder is more versatile than I thought
@@RedBeardOps I've not gotten to use mine yet. Been setting up a new shop. 2 month project that turned into the better part of a year, but I'm 90% done now. These kinds of builds you put out should be standard viewing for any knifemaker. While this one came a little late for me, the electro etch one came at the perfect time for me as have others you've done.
@@rroberts8501 Awesome, glad they're helping out man!
Another great video (You're setting the bar high ; ). I'm in Phoenix with temps up to 118° Fahrenheit, and consistently over 110° in the summer.
We will see how the fully enclosed VFD works.
I may put some vent holes with a filter on mine to allow more air circulation.
With the cheap VFDs, I'm not sure if there's going to be much overheating protection and I'm unsure what will happen if it overheats.
Anyone else have a fully enclosed box without vents in temperatures above 100°?
My temps have been in the 100s in Texas as well. Humid too. I'd ask Brian House his thoughts. I think he is in Florida? Can't remember
Usually the manual has advice about the installation position and ventilation clearances. Here are some spooky warning notes from the Siemens devices I use, f.e. SINAMICS V20. (Okay, they are another price-class and they have proper over-current and over-temperature protection, just by the way:) ). Maybe it helps:
1. Fire due to insufficient ventilation clearances
Inadequate ventilation clearances can lead to overheating of components and result in a subsequent fire with the development of smoke. This can cause severe bodily harm or death. Furthermore, increased failures and shortened lifetime of devices/systems.
• Adhere to the minimum clearances specified for each component ventilation spaces.
2. Overheating if installed in an inadmissible position
If the installation position is not permitted, the device can overheat and be damaged as a result.
• Only operate the device in approved installation positions.
3. with assembly instructions and dimensions.
4. Two pages of warning codes related solely to overtemperature of the various components of the drive or motor.
... typical for us Germans, right? Hehehe. I hope this helps somewhat for your considerations and that the manual of your device does have such advice, too. Oh and filters are a must have, you mentioned them. Especially when the device is mounted without enclosure ( although that enclosure doesn't protect anything from the following). Machine Shop = Oil and micro-metal-chips in the air! So make sure that your filter mats are also oil-tight. Check them at least once a year and then change them if needed, yes? :)
Nitpicks: Professionals (NO, anyone should, hehe!) use a fuse before the frequency converter (VFD) that corresponds to the nominal input current and is mandatory. The fuse in your house connection box only protects the line to the device. The fuses should be of the semi-conductor type or have a fast-fast tripping characteristic. Incidentally, the whole thing is completed with a 3-phase circuit breaker at the output, which limits it to the rated current of the motor.
One may think, that sounds too much ... and expensive. But compare the price of the protective devices against the VFD, the motor and the cables or the damage by a possible fire ... or the work you have (again!) when something of that is defect and you have the repair and exchange it.
Edit: I've had a few years in maintenance under my belt. I have never come across a broken motor that had such a circuit breaker on the output side[1]. For example, if the mechanism is overloaded, when something falls in or gets blocked. That's what those protective measures are there for. With machines that we hadn't designed and didn't have these protective devices, it has happened that the motor, control unit and lines had to be replaced after a mechanical blockage.That I forgot to mention ... the most important reason for using such circuit technology:) (And not speaking about the safety issues that a unprotected free running device pictures ...)
[1] Not talking about the usual suspects, wear and tear and the normal service life.
Ironic: Nice that they provided a PICTURE of a proper motor terminal block, but not the physical device, ouch ... Hehehe. (Image-Search for "motor connection block star/delta")
Edit2: Yes (as Red Beard mentioned at the end). BIG RED EMERGENCY Stop is the first thing you should design and screw in:)
BTW wonderful project, Red Beard. Thanks for the video!:)
@@RedBeardOps Something important: The (separable!) hinge of the ammo box cannot be considered as a reliable connection with regard to protective earth[2]. The idea with the screw was good(wait, we use her and her twin-sister later). But(!) ... the 45-degree bent terminal is just as bad because the terminals are simply not suitable for it[1]. My suggestion: Use such a great screw again at the bottom of the housing as a distributor (then it is already grounded). There we wire the supply line, then one to the converter, one to the motor and one to the cover(your existing one besides the switch). This is called star point wiring and is the correct procedure for wiring the protective earth. As a rule of thumb, we leave the protective conductor one and a half times as long as the other wires in the cable for supply lines that lead out of the housing and must be protected by strain relief(Very important for cables that can be moved, e.g. to be plugged into a socket). In the event of a mechanical accident, this ensures the latest demolition. Last but not least, for screwing protective earth connections: washers and snap rings are a MUST! Then even I am happy and silent ... :)
[1] There are dual cable shoes and ferrules on the market ... but not for this use case here.
[2] The conductivity is guaranteed here by pure coincidence and luck. Both folks we don't want to rely on in electrical engineering, right?
@@dieSpinnt Thanks for the notes Jedzia
Great build. 1. I haven't been able to locate any information on the cooling fan. 2. Brian hooked up his Motor for 3 phase/Cheap VFD with 220 plug, is there any difference with running the 120V you are working with here? Couple questions for you! You and Brian are going to cost me a fortune! Thanks for the videos and your time, its greatly appreciated! Steve
LOL, you got it all wrong. You have to do what my wife does when she goes shopping and told me how much money I saved by her buying stuff on sale. Brian and I are saving you money by laying out how to build the equipment ;) ;)
My unit has no cooling fan in it.
Running on 120 derates the motor some... so it won't be as powerful.
Have built the box and will attach the motor tonight to test everything. Waiting on the disc (backordered?) and the Beck Armory kit to show. Stuck in transit somewhere. Taking a long time. Video and instructions are top notch! Thanks. Wish me luck! Any suggestions or changes since building it?
Good luck Brian! Nope, so far so good! This thing works great. I get my paper from Pop's Knife Supply in large sheet packs.
So it was only partially DIY, a kit you put together. I built mine completely from scratch and one day will make a sword from a couple old chainsaw bars I have.
Good luck with the sword!
Must the ground also be grounded to the ammo case?
Or is it not enough to have the ground from the wall connected to the ground of the VFD which is connected to the ground of the motor.
I honestly don't know... Figured I'd go overboard.
I've ssen it in several videos but can't find if you've talked about it before. What fab/welding table do you have and are you happy with it?
Hey Ben! This is the table I use - amzn.to/3nvop54
It's a good, cheap solution for my shop. I'm a fan
Great video, and great job putting it together, but I’m not seeing the strategic advantage here. Couldn’t you have picked up a used Grizzly large disc sander for less money/time spent on this project?
Thanks! The VFD control, precision disc, large work rest and the ability to manipulate the frame are some reasons to go with a more custom version.
think L stands for Line.
Gotcha! Thank you
3M feathering disk adhesive has been discontinued, is there another option?
hmmmm I'm not sure. Still on my first tube.
Super usefull
Glad to hear that! Cheers sir
Damn shame they dont sell the buils you got build any more!
Hey Jay, what do you mean by the buils?
@@RedBeardOps No, the build kit for the motor and frame. I could not find it on their website.
@@jayperez2 becksarmory.com/products/b-a-vander-sander-kit/ 2 in stock
@@RedBeardOps Thanks I will try and order one.
Hey James…is 1725 RPM the option you went with? That’s what the motor link goes to. Just curious on your thinking.
Yes, with a disc grinder you really don't need the high speed. I haven't ran it more than have power yet for ricasso and bevel flattening yet. 3600 would be way too fast IMO
I guess my disc grinder doesn't have a large enough diameter, because I always run into a problem with the center grinding less because it's moving slower than the outside...meaning the piece closer to me gets ground more aggressively. The difference in grinding speed ends up making my stuff slightly convex, so I end up using a 4" belt instead :/
I see what you're saying. It does slow down towards the center for sure! Most of the actually grinding on the bevel seems to be happening on the outer diameter. Which is why I'm moving the blade towards the outsides. It will take me time to get used to this machine for sure!
@@RedBeardOps I think if I had a big enough diameter I might have better luck, and having a slight bevel might help some too (then again, if it was big enough, I wouldn't have to worry about going past center as much). How does it compare to the surface grinder? That setup seemed to produce some really flat results.
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper I think if someone is needed to make a choice between this and a surface grinding attachment for their shop... they should go with the disc grinder.
@@RedBeardOps Makes sense if you put it that way, a disc grinder like yours really doesn't take up a lot of room and seems to be useful for more than just magnetic parts. I have access to a huge surface grinder that I use with steel, but I've yet to figure out a way to make it work with non-magnetic scales.
Great tool. But i prefer belt sanders :/
For sure, they both have their place! What I'm finding with the disc is that it reduced the amount of bevel hand sanding I need to do. And of course does a better job at flattening than a flat platen. But I wouldn't trade in my 2x72 for sure! LOL
@@RedBeardOps if that then I agree with you keep going
I like it... Want
I just wired up one of those VFDs this weekend and noticed the weird labeling. I did the opposite of you and followed what was on the board at first and had to reverse everything.
I kept mine in its plastic case in the ammo can. Is it better to take it out like you did?
Hey Jon, I don't see an issue with keeping it in the plastic case. I just did what Brian House did. Seemed like the plastic case wasn't needed anymore.
@@RedBeardOps ok cool. Once I had it working I did wonder if it would overheat being in the can and in my hot garage.
I was planning on using my old motor to make a disc grinder but now after watching your video I want it on a VFD lol.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the links man!!! I've been needing to upgrade things in my shop (currently using a treadmill motor and controller for my 2×72)...even with currency conversion, shipping and duties, the motor and VFD should be about 1/3 the cost I would pay from suppliers in canada...what speed motor would you recommend for a 2×72 ???
No problemo James. For a 2x72 I think the 3600 RPM range is what you'd want.
@@RedBeardOps thanks...I've seen conflicting information on the speed, citing higher torque from the lower rpm...but they don't explain how a 1750 rpm motor can exceed its rated speed, simply by connecting to a VFD
@@jamesafseth326 The way I understand it is =>> if you're running a 3600 rpm motor at 1/4 speed it's going to have less torque than if you're running a 1750 RPM motor at 3/4 speed. But if you're grinding at 3600 RPM frequently, you'll maintain that torque. There are curves that show this I think for each motor.
@@RedBeardOps most of my grinding is at full speed (4500 on a 2hp DC treadmill motor, with 4" drive)..I slow it down to about half as I move up in grit..what I hate about my system, is that if I remove the blade too fast from the belt, the treadmill VFD will shut down the motor (like it's sensing that the user fell off the treadmill 😂)..that's the biggest reason I need to upgrade to a proper motor and VFD
Hey James…looks awesome! Can’t wait to order one. Did you get the original version or V2? I just looked at Richard’s website and saw he has a V2 now. Not sure what the difference is.
I'm 95% sure this is the version 2. Basically the V2's face place allows the chassis to accept either a 12'' or 9'' disc I think... Not 100%
@@RedBeardOps That makes sense…you had to pick between the 12 and 9 inch platform before. Thanks! Enjoy it.
@@jasonvliet-odonataknifeworks That's right. I'm a big fan of the 9'' since you can use standard sheets
Yes the grinder in this video is the 2nd Gen version.
What are the 1 degree bevel discs used for?
The idea behind a 1 degree beveled disc is to prevent your knife from hitting the other side of the disc. So one side is going down (that's the side you want to grind on) and the other side is going up (the side you don't want to grind on). This bevel should help with really long blades.
@@RedBeardOps oh ok. That makes sense. I've only used flat discs, and I could see how that could be helpful.
Hello buddy, how are you? I'm from Brazil and importing your product is very expensive. Would you just sell me his plans so I can have them laser cut here in my country?
Thank you in advance for your attention.
Leonardo Augusto
Hey Leonardo, contact Richard at Beck's Armory and he can get you sorted out. Cheers - (I think you can buy just the plans on there) becksarmory.com/becksarmory.com/product/b-a-vander-sander-kit/?ref=1082
Fat engine, but the frame looks much too small in the video. It's a great machine for woodworking, but a disaster for blade sharpening, in my opinion.
It's working great! And it's not for sharpening. Cheers Raik