Wood Vs 3D Print - Wrench Holder + Bonus Setup Blocks Featuring The Ankermake M5C - Free Files!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ธ.ค. 2023
- ** 11/15th….well third remakes the charm 😅 i corrected the files and re-uploading
In our second Head to head we are making a custom Magnet Wrench Holder out of wood and using our Ankermake M5C 3D Printer. As a bonus build we also have a setup block set to test the tolerances of the printer.
AnkerMake M5C is a 3D printer with high speed & high precision and is designed to easily customize functions in one click.
Order on Amazon: ankermake.club/V81106pbF
Order on Ankermake: ankermake.club/V81106IWD
More Fun on Make it Real:makeitreal.ankermake.com/
#AnkerMake #AnkerMakeM5C #3Dprinting
Magnets from this built - www.amazon.com/dp/B09T91SW31/...
Files
3d printed holder files - www.thingiverse.com/thing:639...
3d print set up blocks - www.thingiverse.com/thing:639...
Cnc files - site.inventables.com/projects...
cnc files in svg format - www.thingiverse.com/thing:640...
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Please keep this series going! Your last video inspired me to try adding 3D printing to my French cleat wall and thanks to your original French cleat how-to video, I was able to put up my French cleat wall last summer with ZERO issues.
Oh, that’s awesome! Yes, I definitely will, I see a lot of cool stuff we can do with a series!
Thanks ,you twisted my arm in the last few videos and MADE me buy the ankermake M5 version. Man I am so glad you did. I was like you had a printer that I never even powered on, because of the complexity of all the info. Ankermake is truly a printer for dummies.lol. but also advanced enough for all. Thank you again for the videos. Love to see you are making a 3d shop series
Oh That's great, same experience I had so glad to hear it worked out for you too!
Great video! Another project for the list!
Have a Merry Christmas, Justin! 🎄 🎅 🦌 🛷
Thanks Damon! Merry xmas to you too!
Merry Christmas, Justin! I really like your approach and demeanor during your videos. I wish you a long, prosperous TH-cam Channel experience. You doing a side by side 3D print vs wood is pretty scarce in the channels I watch. I really loved it! I have 3D printers but no CNC. Maybe in the future as they become more affordable... Well, thank you for this awesome video!
Thank you and merry Christmas to you too! Yea cnc / laser engraver and 3d printer have formed a triad in my shop now, between them you can get most things accomplished!
For embossing text in 3D prints, it's easier to let the text pertrude out. Afterward, you can go over with some paint (tipp-ex) or just a sharpie, on light colored filament.
Great tip! I actually just figured that out on a print I did yesterday!
Very helpful,well done. Enjoy your videos.
Glad you like them!
As a woodworker and 3D printer I’m loving these videos. Looking forward to more.
Awesome happy to hear that!
Another great video Justin what a great series please keep it going I just need a 3D Printer someday. Hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🎉 🎉
Thanks a lot Jim, Merry xmas to you and your family!
Nice video, I’ve been looking to make wrench holders for my shop for sometime, I may well end up with the 3D printed version. Appreciate you putting a French cleat on the back, and having both versions.
Thanks let me know how you like it!
Good video. For those with 3D printers, note you can solve some of the issues within the slicer. For example, I would be using Orca Slicer and I would add mouse ears so the corners don't warp up.
Great tip!
Great video! My Garage is 10°F right now and can't follow along until Spring. Great series - Love the wood/3D print comparisons. Now you have to make a wood Benchy!
😂😂 oh boy I might have to do that
Great stuff, thanks!
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Such a great content. Keep it up!
Thank you!
Nice video and I like the comparison between wood and 3D print. I’ve got a 3D printer but I think I’d still make the spanner holder out of wood.
When embedding the magnets in the front face I think I will use the router table to cut the indents as I don’t have a CNC. Probably have to write the sizes on the front ☹️
On the mm design, 6 and 9mm are not all that common in the UK, but 19mm is. That’s another reason to make in wood, it’s easier to adapt to your spanner collection. Thanks😊
Thanks! Yea I personally like the wood version of this but I have been surprised at some of the nice 3d tool holders I prefer, like for my Milwaukee jig saw
Another useful video and thanks for throwing in the bonus. Have you heard any timeframe for the V6? Definitely looks like something I'll be needing. - Chris
Based on what I read it’s January feb but bileved it was expected earlier - but yea excited for it because it looks better than the bambu where you have these big purge towers and “poop” that often throws away as much filament as your using in your print! This replaces the head and gives you 6 nozzles, one for each color so no need to purge!
As someone that’s been hobby 3D Printing for several years, printing items one at a time yields a higher success rate, and quality print, than multiple items on one build plate.
Thanks for the tip!
I solveing the tolerances issues within CAD, for example I've printed 19.80 mm to 20.00 mm in 0.05mm steps dogs and chooses the best fitting.
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for coloring in the 3d printed labels, maybe colored CA glue? i've done it on wood and metal, but not sure how it works with PLA... depending how deep, you have to do a small layer then harden then another small layer and harden and so on because if it is too deep it hardens the top and maybe not the bottom and can cause issues
Since that video, I found that a really easy way on a 3-D printer that only prints one color is to stop the print right at those top layers, you remove the filament and then put in a different color like white and then finish the print. Very little work but it comes out 1 million times better, or if you’re using a multicolor 3-D printer like one of the Bambu lab ones
You can print these in color with a bambu-lab to.😊
Very true! You know I almost bought the a1 mini when it came out but I had seen the video on how ankermake is doing individual nozzles so no poop or purge tower so I’m hoping for the best when it’s released soon!
Look into embedding magnets on the 3D printed one. Not familiar with your brand but most slicers will let you pause (or use a filament change, even if unloading and loading the same filament). Create your model with recesses for the magnets and have the printer pause at the layer that will cover them. Insert the magnets and resume, printing right over the top of the magnets. That way you can have an embedded magnet behind the wrench with only a layer or two of plastic between them and the wrench.
Oh very cool tip!
Great video, thanks for showing the 3 methods. I have an Ankermake question for you. Have you tried using petg instead of pla and if so, did you have any problems?
So I have played with pla, petg, abs, tpa. Abs is actually my favorite as it’s high strength with medium flexibility but I have an enclosure for my printer with heat and exhaust, you can’t do abs out in the open. Petg I have tried a few times and the prints failed, I’m sure it’s just a small setting issue. My filaments are stored around 12% humid so it’s not a hydro issue either, but the fails pushed me to just go with abs if I need something stronger than a pla print.
I found to print with PETG I had to slow the print speed down and increase the print temperature. Once I did those things I get perfect PETG prints every time
you can slice the file with a filament sway and just raise the text to print it white.
Good tip!
I really like these 3D series, after all you’re the one that got me started. What program did you use to design the wrench holders?
Thanks! Tinker cad it’s free and prob the simplest to start learning on
@@BitnerBuilt You turned me on to that a couple of months ago, next I'd like to learn Fusion 360.
Nice. A vid on how you model would be helpful. I’m trying to use skechup, but it’s not always a great experience.
Give tinkercad a try I’m still a noob but on there adding blocks, merging them together or using subtraction blocks accomplishes a lot.
The modeling isn’t the issue, it’s getting it to print the way it’s drawn.
It would be really nice if you made the files available for other cnc cad/cam software.
Standard dxf,svg or stl format would be universal.
merry xmas here you go www.thingiverse.com/thing:6400403
It might be better to have the ed printed labels raised instead of inset. That way you can just use a sharpie to black them and they will stand out. Great video tho, thanks!
Good idea!
Don’t know if it’s been mentioned already but you could print the cleat separately and draw in some holes so you don’t need 2 separate versions and you drastically cut down on waste also it might be useful to look into over hangs and chemfers I think I can make this model supportless
I think you might be underestimating how powerful a 3D printer is especially if your using pla
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@@BitnerBuilt love the series btw I’m in the process of building a cleat wall with 50/50 wood and plastic. I already built your hamer holder
I just took a good look at your design if you turn the dovetail 90 degrees and make a couple of smaller ones side by side then you can print it laying flat on its back without using supports and if you make the numbers raised then you can pause the print when it’s about to print the numbers at witch point you can change the fillement so you can print those in a contrasting colour (sorry English isn’t my first language I hope it’s clear enough ) I hope it’s helpful love your stuff
@@KorevaarAnneah good idea 👍
Consider a filament swap to get colored raised text
Great idea
Great video. But it seems to me you now have a 11/16 labelled as 11/15. Also what is the accuracy of the say 1/8 set up block. Surely you should convert to thousands of an inch and check them. The callipers must have a tolerance band for each size?
Yea we caught that after and the files are updated, (it’s noted in the description) the cnc is cranking out a new one. On the 1/4th blocks since I did that under different settings on the .4 and .2 nozzle under precision mode the digitally read .2500 the fast print one is .2455
Glad you caught it.
Not sure if your printer/slicer has it, but add ironing to the top layer
Oh great tip, in “easy mode” I don’t on the ankermake software but I will poke around in expert mode (still learning in the 3d space!)
my humble opinion: Wood is to build something pretty that involves (most of the time) a good amount of labour/ work. Everything is possible with 3D printing in a fast and easier way but it might not look that nice. Both have their pro and cons
Would totally agree, on this one I definitely go for the wood but the printer has its place particularly with the setup blocks, couldn’t make them from wood (swelling etc) so it’s fun to play around in both spaces.
Just at a glance, I actually think you printed in the wrong orientation.
I would have printed those face down, with the part with the writing actually touching the bed surface. Probably wouldn't even need support if you dial in the bridging settings for the material you are printing with and make the CAD have no more then a 30° angle overhang.
You could print the first 2-3 layers this way in one color, then pause and swap filament, and let the rest of the print go in the other color, and that would give you the contrast for the numbers.
Or you could get fancy with Orca slicer instead of AnkerMake slicer and use that to make filled-in writing in white filament. Just one or two filament changes would work for that.
Good tips!
Enable ironing
Thanks for the tip. I didn’t know about that setting somebody else recommended the same!
Thanks for the tip. I didn’t know about that setting somebody else recommended the same!
Oops: 11/15
😂not fair… well third times the charm I guess
All files updates so no one else has that mistake!
dude, its 11/16ths
Yea it’s in the description I caught it and corrected the file