@@mark_osborne i mean when I drive on track oil pressure drops to 15psi on very hot idle. Oil pump is new Melling standart. 2011 chevrolet camaro ss 6.2 L99
@@PlymouthBarracudaV8HemiI have the same problem with my Camaro 2010, L99, I already change oil and filter, and oil pressure sensor, and the problem continues, could you please share with me if you have the solution? Thanks
My Dad has a chevy truck with this engine. He has been struggling for years with oil pressure on it. Changed cam bearing, con rod bearing, crank with matching bearing sets, still low oil. I sent him a link to this video. He threw in a better pump and a few other items that were pointed out. Problem solved, engine running better than ever. Thank you for taking the time to post this video, it has helped at least one old grumpy man.
@@mark_osborne It was a help for sure, you pointed out things he never considered would be an issue. He has thanked me a couple of times now for finding and sharing your video with him. My Dad was getting ready to give up and just get a new truck, or get a rebuilt motor. He replaced all the parts you recommended in the video and all is well now.
I’m considering a high volume/pressure oil pump. Is there any concerns attached to that? Or would just be a simple install without worrying about anything else? It’s a 194k mile 6.2L engine. Light comes on when it gets to operating temp. Immediately goes out when I give it a little bit of throttle. This is all when idling in the driveway (just got the truck not too long ago).
@@mark_osborne I have a question sir 4:18 can a 2011 5.3 LMG engine crankshaft fit on a 2008 5.3 iron block? Or do they have different measurements and calibrations?
Nice insight on condensation issue, done the select fit mains before but not heard of cam bearing availability before, thanks for sharing. I experimented with lifter bore clearances also for bleed issue.
Those fancy Fingers, for getting the oil off the crank, are called Crank or oil scrapers. Exactly describes what they do. It goes on the side of the crank as it's going back up and removes much of the oil that's in suspension against the crank and drops it right down into the oil pan, usually there's also a windage tray involved. Getting the oil level lower than the throw of the crank also works wonders. I have also seen these motors running a stock ring gap of .030. That is horribly large. You'll get better fuel mileage and less oil consumption by making it closer to about 18
Just putting the Melling high volume/pressure pump has fixed every one we've had at our shop. Did an 06 Yukon 5.3 last week.. pressure at idle was down to 2 bars on the gauge, 60 on gauge after the new pump. Good belief that the O ring from the pickup tube is main cause letting air in but we've always just changed the pump too
I guess it’s old news - but this is the first I have heard of 1 over bearings. I’m an original owner on a 2004 that now has 260k miles. Always regular oil changes. What it does is a little over 40 psi when cold or on short trips. Once I have been driving about 20 miles the pressure starts fluctuating and dropping. I too have replaced several sending units with no change. So I plan on dropping the engine and freshening it up with new bearings etc. it’s not blown up, I installed a new oil pump, the famous o-ring, it got a new rear cover 30k miles ago, and a new cam plate seal.
Lol, in my area "I'm the guy to go to" too for independent GM issues. What I've learned is "I'm the cheaper than the stealer guy to go to" it took years but I've learned there no loyalty, just an expenses issue
I bought my little 5.3 2wd LS Silverado brand new in 2001, it's closing in on 250k , runs and drives like new...here is how I keep from having lifter and oil pressure problems ...I change the oil between 3k - 5k intervals....a hundred miles before I change the oil, I just add 1/4 of a qt of automatic transmission fluid to the oil, then just change the oil and filter ...! It works on any engine !
My 2005 escalade is having the same problem. Already changed the o ring, pressure sensor, wiring, this will be my next step. Thank you very much for your help.
Let us know how it works out ! Remember, GM's spec for these engines is 7 lbs per thousand RPMs "hot", so if you have that, drive it and forget about it
I'm having the same issue.. I replaced the oil pickup tube gasket /pressure switch and screen.. drops down to about 10 psi when stopping at a red light
Thank you kind sir for this video! I just replaced my oil pressure sensor in my 2012 about 3 weeks ago and wondered wher in the hell the sludge came from that was plugging up the screen filter.... now I know. Thank you!
If you have noisy lifters on cold startup right before your next Oil Change. Put a quart of automatic transmission fluid in the oil and drive for 10 to 20 miles and then change the oil u will be surprised what u find lol.
2005 Suburban 6.0 SLT Great Strong Running 400,000km, lost oil pressure did everything Oil-sender O-ring etc ended up 2nd cam bearing moved... replace with a 240,000km 6.0 Hard front end collision, Cam Bearings looked good and in-place, Engine sat for many years guessing 3-4 plus years, New O-ring on oil pump and installed a New Oil Sending unit I had... installed ran Great and in about 2-3 miles of test driving LOST OIL PRESSURE :( ........... 400km engine seemed to have more power than 240km engine... Both Ran Smooth
@@mark_osborne 2001 Truck Oil Pan was broken in accident, pickup-tube was not damaged but I used the original 2005 Suburban Oil Pan and Pickup-tube with a New O-ring after pressure washing and cleaning the 2005 Tube and Pan... 45 years Auto-Body I've done many Engine swaps over the Years but always learning... I have about 10 of these trucks so I'll Change the Dash Cluster next with my daily driver both are SLTs and I have a Another New Oil Sender unit coming tomorrow...
@@mark_osborne When I first started the 2001 Replacement 6.0 Engine Oil Pressure came up to just over half... Started a few time Oil Pressure always came up and revving Oil pressure would go to 3/4 on the Dash Gauge... Driving a few miles its now down to 1/4 or below... I'm hoping the CAM bearings didn't move again... BUT if they did I'll install New Bearings and Stage-1 CAM and 706 Heads replacing the 317 Heads... The 2005 Suburban was a FIX & SELL because it was so nice and solid still :)
@@mark_osborne Thats when they made good ones that still had some taste to them! We did a dod delete for a guy found out some wix filters are not the best to use. switched to a K&N and gained 8 psi at idle at operating temp.
Interesting video Mark.. It seems from your comments that the engines are not oil starved since you are not seeing a lot of wear or other issues. So changing a lot of components or even upgrading from OEM design is not a great cost effective option for the weekend warrior. I would upgrade the oil pump to deliver slightly more pressure as well as investigating and replacing any worn or compromised seals like the oil pump o-ring seal. I have a 2010 Chevy Avalanche that has now had two failed oil pressure sensors! I only replace with the OEM sensors and the screen as well.
Great video. Cleaning/ replacing/ removing the screen under the oil pressure sending unit may help. Another known culprit for low oil pressure is low viscosity oil, and the orange rubber seal on the oil pickup up line can be crushed. I came across this video because I've got low oil pressure on my 06 chevy suburban with 306,000 miles. I'm gonna go change the oil pressure sensor and see if that helps. If not then it will be oil change to 10w30 synthetic oil. If that doesn't help, then I'm gonna change that oil seal on the oil pickup by dropping the pan. Where in Michigan are you? I'm also in Michigan.
Thanks for the info, my 6.2 has low oil pressure as well. I think I’m going to do the AFF delete, I’ve already done the oil pump and pickup tube o-ring. The one thing that I’m not comfortable with is going in to the short block. So hopefully the AFF takes care of it.
G Garza: I'm into the same issue as you have had. Do you possible have a list of all parts you ordered for your engine rebuilt? I'm trying to put together a complete list for my L99-engine rebuilt but there's a djungle with all different parts to choose from and easy to forgett sometjing.
@@johnnyaberg9617 just Google LS3 DOD delete kit. The heads have to come off. Don't be cheap and replace the lifters. At the very least, replace the DOD lifters. Use GM head gaskets and a Melling 10296 oil pump. Do the timing chain while you're there and replace the spring chain tensioner with a LS2 style solid dampener. All the LS3/99 spring tensioners eventually break.
Does this cover the 2007 5.7 ? Silverado my oil pressure has gone from a steady 40 to 20. No noise in motor it sounds like a dream..temp 210 steady it switches to 4 cylinders for gas mileage. Hope your doing well.
I've already made up my mind with mine. If/when my 2008 5.3 tanks due to AFM. I will shop around for a low mileage 4.8... That engine caught a lot of guff due to being underpowered compared to it's big brother 5.3 - but it doesn't have any AFM related issues because it doesn't have AFM!
4.8s are awesome engines. BTW, you can completely eliminate the AFM on your 5.3 by using an aftermarket (valley pan) block off plate and replacing the AFM lifters with standard lifters. You do not have to change the camshaft as many suggest, then flash the PCM with an aftermarket tuner. You can do it all yourself. I've done it, they run great.
I grew up in that era where we either used a 0.001” oversized bearings, std on bottom and thicker on top, check with plastic gauge then repeat as needed. My favorite is the sheets of 0.0001”, 0.0002” and so on, but called shim stock. I have some in my tool box right now! New to many but guy like you and perhaps myself, where working on vehicles that had scoops on the rod cap and no oil filter. Ask a tech today “What is a draft tube” and they can’t answer. What you are doing is old school by using common sense and you experience to examine new technologies, figure out how it works and what goes wrong with it. Also, the moisture in the crankcase is next to impossible to deal with under many conditions as you described. How can driving short trips to work can kill my oil, then damage my engine. I know it’s been almost 6 years, I think, but look into “Team RX performance” and their technology with oil catch cans. As they worked to create products that remove up to 95% of un burned raw fuel, acids and moisture from re-entering the intake. Cam lobe overlap creates puffs of air pushing these emissions products onto the backside of the throttle valve, coating the air plenum, intake & runners, then the back of the intake valve. I’ve spent hours over a wire wheel on a bench grinder just to prepare the valves for refacing. I am almost 62, but started turning wrenches at 11 to make one gas lawnmower from two that did not run. Just to get paid $1 to mow a yard, better than 3 cents per bale of hay for the neighbors. No tech school and asked by the service manager to get one tech certified, then passed all 8 in 1978. The dealer said “DATSUN” on the front sign. I was the only one using the 3-gas exhaust analyzer as no one else new what they where looking at. Either way, I enjoyed your commanding description of current issues & what you did to fix them. I quit a dealer in July, 99 for an instructors job. A technician ask me how the fuel pump on his 2-stroke bass boat engine worked. It was at that point I realized he grew up in the age of fuel injection. No clue about carburetors or a two stroke engine worked without an electric fuel pump. Wow!
Thanks for the kind words. Coming from another expert in the industry means something to me. Just started crazy early in life with fixing machinery on a farm. Parents & grandpa didn’t know how but someone had to do it. Blessings and stay healthy my friend!
@@deankay4434 Same here Dean, started fixing the neighbor's cars long before i had a license to drive - thanks to my grandpa mostly for having the confidence in me to let me play around with some of his farm equipment :-)
@@mark_osborne Learning something you enjoy, never stops. On the farm, I had two older cousins that came from KC each summer, as their dad was single. One year they had a go-cart. This is a 60’s model. You wrapped a knotted rope around the slotted pulley, made sure the spring clip was off the plug, then you found dirt around the barns. They went home and I broke it. Being 4-6 years older, I figured I had to fix this or move to Mexico, as they would whip my behind. I fixed it. So learning by book, asking questions until they ran me off, or stood there and watched. Either way, from my job to hold the flashlight, or weld the disc from underneath an get slag burns in the pit of my elbow to one day, had a large one melted into my “Converse” tennis shoe, & landed between my big toe & #2 and hurt like hell. I wiggled from under 20+ disc blades to find a mud puddle in the dirt bard yard to stick my bare foot. I lost track of how many times a Dr. or blood bank ask me about these scars...like I shoot-up in these spots everyday. It’s called welding upside down while on the farm. I would laugh and them to try it as most have never seen a welder in their life. That life...and learning from mistakes or doing it right! Blessing to all that learn while very young to fix machinery, milked a cow or know what a “Wheat Drill” is. Good times!
mark thanks for such a very educational video i appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with others if i am doing a dod delete is it ok to use the original oil pump that came on the 08 afm engine because they are a high volume and pressure pump from what i have heard or would you recommend going with stock pressure and volume your input greatly appreciated thank you in advance Robert
If you are pulling apart the bottom end, you can stick in a Melling M335 or M365 pump, both have 1.28 cuin/rev, the 335 has 43 psi blow off valve, the 365 has 33 psi. I'd run the 335 if it were my truck. If you are not pulling apart the bottom end and have reasonable oil pressure just do the DOD delete and drive it and enjoy it
Quick question for you. We have an 07 GMC with the 6.2 non AFM. Had low oil pressure at idle when warm, the oil pressure was basically 0 (on the red line for the gauge) when idling. If you kept the rpm’s up at about 1000 at a stop it would come just a tick above the red. We changed the oil control valve, timing chain, oil pump and o-ring. The cam sensor and oil pressure sending unit had previously been replaced. After the job the oil pressure is at about 30 when cruising, 20 when going about 40 mph coasting and drops to about 10 at idle at a stop. The VVT motors are new to us and my husband doesn’t like the oil pressure at idle. Is there anything else we could have missed. It does have the pressure relief valve in the pan and to be honest he didn’t touch that part. No sludge and everything was pretty clean. Thanks!
Drive it, enjoy it. GM's spec is 7 lbs per 1000 RPM's "hot", so you are within acceptable range. Have you seen my video on a live oil pressure test? You may have more oil pressure than what the gauge shows
Yup going thru the same problem right now as I type this I have 2011 avalanche and the mechanic installed new cam bearings, new camshaft, new crankshaft and crankshaft bearings, new ls7 lifters ,oil pressure sensor, did a DOD delete, new high volume oil pump with new O ring on pick up tube, anyways he forgot to replace the camshaft thrust plate idk why he would forget that but hoping that would solved my low oil pressure issue I’ll give u guys a update when it’s all done …
I like the idea of swapping out the AFM lifters for standard lifters. Although everyone that sells a delete kit recommends a new cam. I am in the middle of cleaning up an exhaust valve on a 2010 silverado 5.3 afm. going to delete the afm also. Its got just over 100,000 miles and has been well taken care of. The only concern is a misfire on number 8 cylinder. A dealership had diagnosed an oil issue that was not even the issue. But since i am in this far would you recommend replacing the oil pump and timing chain and clean out the oil pan? And how sure are you of the lifter swap?
Wow there's a lot there to digest. We don't know what's causing the misfire on #8 correct ? Yes you can run standard lifters on your camshaft. Your cam is pushing on lifters right now, opening the valves right ? so how does the cam know the new lifters never shut off? It's nonsense to say you must change the cam. (yes it's true the non-AFM cam is a different number) These engines build sludge especially in humid environments, so you could have sludge and not even know it. The O-ring at the pump is another known failure. The pumps themselves virtually never fail, it's just that the new Melling pump is an improvement. Pulling the short block out of these trucks is fairly easy -IMO, so yes, I'd do it. Oh, and use GM gaskets for everything, they cost no more than aftermarket and you'll never have a leak.
This is true because of increased fuel economy standards, GM was trying to reduce internal resistance by using lighter oils and lower oil pressure. You are very perceptive. Look at the Cruze engine, the variable oil pump gets them 1/4 of a MPG at BEST, yet they incorporated that technology and added expense. Same with the new Ford 7.3 liter gas.
Thanks Mark just ran into your channel of course I liked and subscribed I'm from Illinois what would you normally charge for that sludge type of repair?
I got an 11 yukon denali. I jammed the same lifter 4000 miles apart a couple years ago. Kept stock cam. Put all 16 straight roller lifters in. Afm delete chip. Now no oil pressure. First did sensor and screen. Then did o ring. Then did melling high volume oil pump and still low pressure. No sludge either. None
Yes. I was surprised. But that was 30k miles ago. Everything has been good. Then the pressure went to 80 then next day 0 with engine light on. That's when I changed the sensor and screen. But I did notice u said u always change out that valley pan. When I did the lifters I just installed that outter gasket on the valley pan. So I ordered a new deleted 1 today so hopefully that gets it.
Ive got a 2004, 6.0, 208k and it starts ticking at higher rpms and speeds, not at idol. New oil pump and pressure is 40-60 at freeway speeds. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance for any help
I live in NC and water getting in the motor well looking under the oil fill cap and clean water drops being under it I wonder if a new front GM SEAL would help that all the 1s I see didn't do that till they got 170 thousand miles or more on them just thinking out loud 🤔?
Great video! I will do the rebuild as you suggest in the video (on my L99-engine and remove AFM but keep VVT). Should I keep the valve train oil pressure valve as is, plug or change to another type? I will use the high pressure oil pump.
@@mark_osborne The factory AFM oil pans have a pressure relief valve on the inside of the oil pan next to the two holes on the driver's rear side of the pan. Should I keep this valve or block it? Reply
@@johnnyaberg9617 Oh THAT relief valve. Yes, I understand. If that valve is clean and working correctly, it will only bleed off excess oil pressure beyond something like 70 lbs (don't hold me to the exact number), so it won't hurt leaving it. However, I also understand there's a school of thought that says- simply block it off. And I can't argue against that being as you are deleting the AFM. So it would be your call.
Warning! If you install non dod lifters in place of dod lifters you have to change the cam. The cam is ground different for the dod lifters and the result will be 20 lbs less of compression and the ecm will see it as a misfire on all 4 dod cylinders at idle. Also you said it goes from 4 to 6 to 8 cylinders, the only GM I know that did the 6 cylinder trick was the 1981 Cadillac 4-6-8 engine.
You are correct, I misspoke when I included "6".... (it comes from the old days of working on the Cadillacs). I won't argue your point on the camshaft as far as cylinder pressure but I can tell you we've done several swaps to standard lifters (leaving the original cam) and had ZERO issues with misfire codes. Thanks for dropping by
What brand and part numbers for the cam bearings used? You used tighter tolerances in some and standard for a couple? I'm about to try the same methods on my 07 yukon denali 6.2 l92. It's stock not dod/afm. Big thanks!
Go to EngineTech website and search your engine, the cam bearings will show up. You can buy them on RockAuto. Yes I used tighter bearings in only 4 spots as I recall. You have to do it by "feel", meaning, if the cam fits the original bearing with reasonable clearance, and the bearing looks good- leave it alone.
2004 Chevy Silverado, 315k miles. Oil pressure gauge is erratic, reads almost 80 and then will drop to zero for a bit, and then jumps back up to 80. For the past 15k miles every so often when I start the truck in the mornings thick white smoke comes out the exhaust for a few seconds and then its gone. So, what would be my problem with the oil pressure?
I have a 2013 5.3. For the second time I have a collapsed lifter on cylinder #6. I fairly certain that the AFM lifter manifold is the culprit. Do you think replacing the manifold will allow the collapsed lifter to reengage, or would that be wasting time and require the heads to be pulled.
Sorry just seen this. It's possible it's a timing issue, meaning, if the lifter doesn't get actuated at the correct time, it can gall the pin and ultimately the lifter can stick. Being as it's happened twice on the same cylinder, I'd bet that is the problem. I don't know the fix. But if you can replace the lifter once more and deactivate the AFM, you'll likely be good to go. Sorry for your trouble.
@Dan Dixon And that makes sense Dan because when oil gets low, air in the oil causes hell with ANY lifters, but the AFM lifters (especially) can't tolerate it. Thanks for your response
Need help I did a custom grind cam on my 2006 envoy Denali 5.3 and it doing a loud ticking noise I’m loosing a lot of oil pressure what could be the cause
Got a 2007 gmc with the L76 HO 6.0 afm stopped working, changed oil pressure sending unit/screen, still getting 10psi. Dash warning to shut off engine while on freeway. Had 5 psi. Confirmed 7ish psi with Guage. Changed oil/filter with 15w-40 and a quart of paratone. 40 psi at 2k rpm, 30 at idle. Afm started working, cel turned off. 176k miles, think I'm going to rebuild and delete afm.
PARATONE is a viscosity modifier. Wonder how that helped anything. But you might have cleared a clog at the pickup screen enough to reestablish oil pressure.
I just changed my oil pump with new pick up tube o rings, everything looked good in my oil pan because i dropped it and changed my oil pressure sendind unit and the screen under it. Still when I first crank my truck up its at normal pressure then it casually drops as it idles but fluctuates and drops when i drive. Should i worry?
GM spec is 7 lbs per 1000 rpm, so if you have at least 14 lbs at 2000, 21 lbs at 3000 and 28 lbs at 4000 you should be fine especially considering your pan was clean. Drive it, enjoy it !
I have a 2008 5.3L in a Suburban. Oil pressure was low about 5 years ago and lifters were ticking. I put in a Melling high volume oil pump and new pick-up O-ring and it solved the problem. Last year I did an AFM delete after engine started knocking a bit. Found one cam lobe worn but no other damage. Since then, the oil pressure is significantly lower, despite putting in all standard lifters and replacing the AFM/DOD valley cover with a new blank valve cover with o-rings covering the oil ports. Changed the cam to an aftermarket non-dod cam (it's definitely different than the dod cam and the engine idled rough until I changed it). Changed the cam retainer cover with new. Oil pressure has been relatively low every since but still about 15 psi at hot idle. Recently got a low oil pressure code. Engine has 220k on it. Runs great with no noise. After seeing this video I am wondering if aftermarket cam has too much clearance with original cam bearings. Wondering if I should switch to 5w-40 oil ?
It's likely a combination of clearances everywhere, but if you have 15 lbs at a hot idle, you're good to go! Drive it, enjoy it. Oh, and very interesting about the cam/idle.... IDK what to say about that, I've done several AFM deletes and never changed the cam and they ran perfect. BTW if you look up the cam specs, you will see the AFM and non-AFM cams are almost identical- the tiny variation must have been required to pass CAFE (my guess)
Thank you Mark. Great video ! You are obviously the voice of experience. I read that the ramp rates on the DOD cams are different on the four DOD cylinders. The result is cylinder pressure may be down as much as 20 psi due to longer seat timing. This does not sound like a lot, but mine idled rough until I changed the cam. Also the ECM detected the imbalance and gave P1174-1175 codes and miss-fire codes. All went away after I put in a non-dod cam. That's when my oil pressure dropped; after the cam replacement.
@@mark_osborne I'm in SE MI. also. My 2011 Silverado acts up every year with the low oil pressure nonsense . It clears up when I do a flush but would be nice to have it solved. It literally JUST started acting up again and I'm at 75% oil life and was down almost 1full qt oil. 85K miles. I also noticed my oil cap had ice underneath from condensate. How does a dude get in touch with you to get his rig fixed?
Hi! I a'm following your suggestion to rebuild my L-99 (Camaro 2012 SS with auto). Summit Racing doesn't sell cam bearings standard CC433W and CC433W-1 (.001 undersized)! Is there any other replacement parts that you can suggest (and is available at Summit)? I have tried to get an answer from Summit but don’t get any.
Forget Summit Racing. Summit Racing is not for re-builders, it's for people who want to put 11:1 pistons in their Camaro, or some huge camshaft. EngineTech brand at Rockauto
Hello Mark, watching your video I'm starting to think maybe my LS 5.3 on a 2003 silverado just needs a rebuild because I took it to a local well know mechanic's shop and they replaced the oil pump, pick up and timing chain and still has low oil pressure problems with the oil pressure warning coming on. This engine historically has always had "lower than normal" oil pressure and was used when I bought it, was told this is "normal" for these trucks by the salesperson. FF 10 years later the oil pressure warning starts coming on and I spent $$$ getting new oil pump put in and the mechanic says "prob due to all the gunk in the engine". Anyways with the new oil pump oil pressure midway between 1/4 and 1/2 the gauge for first 10 min or so but after it warms up, you have to idle higher at stop lights to keep the pressure up and warning light from coming on.... I'm just thinking sell this truck and get out from under it anymore, any thoughts on your end?
Yup, she's probably got extra clearance now in the main bearings and cam bearings - which happens with age. No easy fix other than pulling the engine down and going through it, which is actually quite easy if you have the skill set
Hi - Know this was posted a bit ago, but had a few questions. 2011 5.3 GMC Sierra Crew Cab w/ 147,000 miles. AFM/DOD was deleted via software about a year ago, but no kit work performed such as new cam, lifters, valley plate, etc. I'm now experiencing low oil pressure (~40 lbs at cold start, ~20 lbs hot and running/~10 lbs at hot idle - engine light is on, but no oil pressure warnings); the oil pressure sender/sensor and screen have been replaced 2x with no positive effect. A mechanic advised the engine needed to be replaced as the cam bearings were bad. Would appreciate your thoughts and recommendation before $8-10k is dropped on a re-built engine; note that I was advised an engine replacement would be more economical than an engine rebuild given all the parts, labor, etc. Have seen a few posts where cam, bearings, etc were replaced, but the issue persisted. Have seen some recommendations to try ATF flush or maybe even a thicker oil. Should I try an O ring replacement in the oil pan first? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or recommendations.
I'll take it out for a drive tomorrow and let you know. I think it stays around ~15 - 20 lbs, but will confirm. Thanks so much for such a quick reply. Wish you were in TN....lol.@@mark_osborne
@@mark_osborne Hi - Took it out for a drive today. Temp was 42 degrees. At cold start, typical 40 lbs dropping to about 30 after sitting in the driveway for a few min. Running hot at 1200 rpm/40 mph, pressure was around 17 lbs. At 3100, 3200 and 3400 rpms, pressure was consistent at 19-20 lbs. Runs great with no issues or loss of power. Thanks again for your consult!
@@rkniii10 Well, if in fact the gauge is reading correctly, 19-20 lbs @ 3400 is on the low side, but if it sounds good and otherwise runs good, I'd just drive it. You could run a live oil pressure test just to see if the gauge is reading correctly. It involves taking a plug out of the oil galley (just behind the power steering pump) and threading in a live gauge, then compare the readings with the gauge on the dash. There's a video on my channel that talks about this. The truck in the video (the gauge) was reading about 10 lbs lower than what it tested using a live gauge.
@@mark_osborne Thanks so much. I'll prob take your advice and just run it for a bit and see how it goes. If static, all good. If goes much lower, guess I'll need to look at either a rebuild or reman engine. I did see on some of your replies to others that replacing a cam after DOD/AFM delete is not necessary. And in this video, your customer is keeping their original DOD lifters and you said that should work fine, so seems a delete kit (lifters, cam, vlom/valley plate) is really not necessary after a software update/delete of AFM?
Hey Mark just built an l92 rods and mains measured between .002 and . 0015 they installed standard cam bearings. And I reused the vvt cam they polished it and said it looked good. Problem is my hot idle oil pressure is around 16 psi Seems low, im thinking that old cam is bleeding oil maybe the journals are to small after they polished it. What do you think?
When you polish a crank or cam the amount of material you remove is next to nothing. I highly doubt they removed enough material to cause a bleed. 16 lb of hot oil pressure is very good for these engines - drive it, enjoy it !
@@mark_osborne wow thanks Mark for putting my mind at ease. Just strange how my iron block 6.2 has like 35 psi at hot idle and this one has so much less.
Great video. I have a 07 Silverado 1500 and the oil pressure goes around 30-35 while driving. But, I’m having a knocking that goes on and off randomly. I’ve seen more videos about rocker arms needed adjustment, but I’m not sure. It has 140k miles on it and never had a problem before and it’s not loosing power neither. Also, almost every time that i cold start it, it will blow white ball smoke out of the exhaust. Any advice I will appreciate it!
spark knock under load ? Rockers are not adjustable but do commonly wear out on these engines- the push rod tip wears into the rocker arm. But that's a clicking sound that will basically be there all of the time.
@christian negron > The 07 may have active fuel management or 4 cylinders to 8 cylinders activation. Use a live oil gauge, but at the back, under oil pressure sensor is a screen. It can plug, poor ground thru harness or bad sensor. The valve manifold that controls lifter has High fail rate. If CMP is on T-Chain cover, it has AFM. Get it diagnosed! Knock or tap is not good and many fixes, some cheap, some not. They offer AFM delete kits for LS Swaps. There is a real good oil pressure video by a Hispanic guy I think, I saw it a few months ago and very impressed with his talent.
Hey Mark. I got an issue in my 4.8 ltr. LY2 engine, 180k miles. Driving one night lost oil pressure. I replaced the oil pickup tube, oil pump oil pan and oil pressure sensor. No go. Considering your expertise with this type of engine, would you have any idea what is going on with this engine? I am at a loss. The only thing I can think of is something internally within the engine has given. Thank you for your time and advice.
AFAIK 4.8s never had AFM so that eliminates some possible problems. Still, you have a number of gaskets and seals under oil pressure. Those are what I would look at. You don't have a VLOM but the valley cover that you do have still has to contain oil pressure where it seals to the block under the pressure sensor. The cam plate that Mark shows is another as well as a similar cam plate at the rear. There is a good video that traces the oiling system of LS engines. Search that and it will show you some potential internal leaks. In fact, here it is: th-cam.com/video/DNvu0_eeAG8/w-d-xo.html Good luck. I am dealing with a similar problem (5.3 DoD though) and formulating a plan before I tear into it. Mine is still running OK but I noticed pressure was down a few weeks ago. Went from @40psi at idle since new to 20psi. Builds up to 35-40 with revs. Changed oil this morning and like magic it is back to 40 at idle. I change oil at about 5000 miles. Oil, filter and all passages that I could see looked clean. Oil looked decent enough. It is perplexing. I've had oil seeping at the rear of engine for a long time but never a drop on the ground. Any significant leakage has to be internal. There are a couple of fittings available which let you tap into the oil pump output to assure that the pump is making pressure. After that, it's a matter of figuring out where the leak or blockage is.
Hey Mark I have a question....I have a 2005 Tahoe and no one where I live can figure out what it is and I’m not putting anymore money it and no one wants to buy it. I have a high oil pressure issue and I switched out the oil pressure switch and it’s still on high. It’s still tapping after lifers has been changed. After driving for about 30-45 min the power is lost
Sorry for your trouble Carlos. I'll bet your gauge is reading wrong and you actually have low oil pressure based on the lifter noise and it's very likely either sludge in the pan blocking the oil pickup screen or possibly the O-ring is shot where the pickup screen goes into the oil pump. Unfortunately it's not easy to access the oil pressure sending unit or I would suggest putting a live gauge in the port and measure the actual oil pressure to confirm my suspicions.
Hey Mark. Very informative video! I’m a young tech getting into the industry within the last ten years. I’ve learned a lot from you advanced techs on here. I have a channel started, check it out sometime if you have extra time and are interested. Anyways I have a customer with a 2007 Tahoe w/ 5.3 oil pressure hovers around 20/25 and rises fairly strongly with RPM. The owner wants to start with cheapest option. What would you say the odds are of sludged pressure sensor screen? Customer admits to be about 800 miles over on oil change. I just wanted to pick your brain on the matter. I’m guessing odds are it’s an item you listed here in the video or a combination of them but for $60 and 20 minutes I figured pressure sensor/screen might be a start. Thanks again for the knowledge!
If he has 20-25 lbs at a hot idle, he doesn't have a problem- GM spec is 7 lbs/1000 RPM (hot). But those screens can be a problem, personally, I leave them out. I recently did a video on how to do a live oil pressure test. Thanks, I will check out your channel
@@mark_osborne well come to find out after scanning vehicle. it’s going low enough to set pressure performance code and shut off engine warning. I have the equipment to test darn near everything else on a vehicle but not oil pressure gauge. Time to buy one. Lol.
first thing is to remove that stupid screen under oil pressure sensor. secondly the oil pickup tube o-ring at oil pump is another culprit. it will fail allowing air to be sucked into oil sytem and possibly allowing oil to bleed out. next there is an oil pressure bypass valve inside the oil pan near the oil filter location. these can fail allowing oil to bleed out. this pressure valve is on the ls engines with DOD and or AFM. another thing is to never use any oof brand oil filter as they have been known to cause oil pressure issues.
I've got a 2007 Yukon Denali 6.2 non DOD that sounds like it has a collapsed lifter though I can't locate a loose rocker. Truck runs great just rattles and low oil pressure at an idle after it completely warms up. You mentioned you could hear the cam rattling when the bearing tolerances are out. Could this be what I'm hearing?
You won't hear the cam rattling, that was just an observation I made during assembly showing the extra clearance before installing the tighter bearings. It's possible you have a lazy lifter however, these engines EAT rocker arms and push rods and are notorious for rocker arm noise.
Have a 2011 Silverado k1500 crew cab 5.3 litre, I am getting only about 15psi on warm idle,is that too low,or,do I need to seek a different problem?I just had the oil pressure sensor and filter screen replaced, because the truck kept saying oil pressure low,shut off engine. I have had the afm locked out with the range afm disabler,for a couple of years.
Sorry to be another question - but my case doesn't quite line up with your original customer. I'm having similar issues, but it doesn't seem to be temperature based. It seems to be based more on run time. If I let the truck sit for 10-20 minutes I have 25 psi at idle, at 3400 rpm I have 45 psi. As I drive it around over 20-30 minutes it slowly makes less pressure across the board until I'm playing with the magic 10 psi mark. I've read online that 3 or 4 seconds under 10 psi and the truck shows the low oil pressure warning, which is what I'm getting. Even letting it sit for 5 minutes brings it back to "normal" for a few minutes, though it degrades faster if it's less than a 10 minute break. I've tried the sensor and AFM screen under it (the new screen helped a little, but not too much). The new sensor is reading exactly the same as the old one. I'm dubious a new pickup o-ring will fix it, but that's obviously easier than pulling the whole motor. I'd obviously like to try the o-ring if there was even a chance, but it seems like that would just show low pressure all the time. This motor is no spring chicken (at 212k today), but has had several odd problems over the years - had a lifter lock (or something) and bend a pushrod, and had a valve seat split and fall right out of the head. If I'm almost certainly looking at new cam bearings, it might just be time to move on. I'd really like to hear your thoughts as I make a decision here.
@Josh Mason >I feel your pain but low oil pressure can come from a bad cam bearing, you would have repeat lifter failure as all are rollers. They would fail fast. Check oil level before & after pressure drops. Caked oil or stem seals can block oil return holes in the heads. Oil pumps with higher volume are sold at Rock Auto under the “Melling” brand for $130+ and come with thicker gears, shimmed pressure relief spring but include 2 size O-rings for pickup tube. Use vasoline on it to install. eBay sells a bracket that supports the tube and uses the second hole. You may not be able to wrench it, but take an old 12 point combination wrench, heat it with a torch and bend it for this job. Many change out all DOD lifters but requires the heads off. A decent head-set will cost less than new set of torque to yield bolts, but many re-use these bolts once with no failures. These are several places for loss of oil pressure, but a high volume pump, new o-ring will get you going. The higher the volume only matches the wider clearance in cam, crank, cam bearings, until it over comes the excessive loss that comes with wear. Short trips that do not bring engine up to temperature will kill oil’s additives fast. If no short trips, skip this but other family member do need warning. Low is never good, but wiped on finger, if too dark to see thru, change it. Best of luck buddy! ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired
@@deankay4434 thanks for the info. I've been monitoring the oil with Blackstone reports every oil change. While the copper is a little higher than I'd like, it's not enough to show the cam bearings are toast. And this low oil pressure situation was a sudden occurrence. I actually talked to Mark about it and we both feel it's likely the short trips this thing sees have created some sludge that's probably clothing the pickup screen. The lifter filter was definitely gummed up pretty badly. Between that and a loose o-ring, there's a decent chance a screen / pickup replacement will sort us out. But I HAVE had trouble with a collapsed AFM lifter a couple years ago, which did necessitate pulling the head (after which I replaced all 16 lifters) - and one of the reasons I've been getting the oil tested. The level check after hot is a good tip, too - I assume a Seafoam treatment would be the easy fix there (assuming it actually worked) - if not, obviously a full teardown would be in order.
@@jkmason88 >In Omaha, you can get a truck engine at the bone yard for less than $300. Change the oil pan if needed and put a non- AFM engine in it. Send the PCM to Brenden at LT1Swap.com and he can program it for $75. He’s in NW Missouri. Look him up and call or email. Tell him what you got and he can tell you what engines to but. Plus, there is a huge market out there that buys these engines to rebuild for swapping into 67 C10 trucks, 80’s Monte Carlo’s and even Nissans. They are using this engine in everything. Just look at the door sticker as the 8th digit tells what engine you have, plus you know the year. The production date in on that sticker as well. If it’s a truck/SUV, the RPO codes are in the glove box. Monitoring the metal in the oil is big truck normal, but if copper is high, the lead/tin is wore off and into the coating of a bearing shell. That part is either aluminum or steel. Best of luck! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
@@deankay4434 I have never had lead or tin in my oil even as copper has increased over the last 70k miles. I may be mistaken, but I do not believe the LS3 has lead or tin bearing material. And to my knowledge LS3s are not available anywhere for $300. This whole discussion seems a little overkill when a new oil pickup tube and o-ring is a likely solution and costs $32 at the dealer...
My 05 Silverado has higher oil pressure when it's hot. I know that's backwards but that's what the gauge says. It only has 30 psi when cold max and will go to 60 psi when hot at 5500 rpm 40 psi at 1500 rpm. There's a lifter clicking when the oil is cold. I use 5w30 oil too like it says. If you put thicker oil in it the oil pressure is worse and lifters clatter worse. Is that a common problem? There's no glitter in the oil and doesn't knock when you change oil.Thanks!
Never heard of that one before !...lol.. It's extremely common for the rocker arm to wear out where the push rod engages, they just eat themselves alive on these engines. That will often show up when it's cold and get less noticeable when the oil warms up. Try to identify which side it's coming from and remove the valve cover and then the rockers and look for wear. Very very common. Will sound like lifters.
I have a 2009 5.3 lc9 and had low oil pressure I replaced pickup tube o-ring as well as oil pressure switch and screen. The sludge was horrible but I cleaned everything up it's been fine until 2 days ago. Oil pressure went from 35 psi at warm idle to a little over 20 psi. Any thoughts? The other work was completed last spring. I use valvoline 5w30 high mileage with an gm oil filter.
Can you help me I changed my oil pump 2 time an still got low oil pressure but when we took out the oil pan had metal sand look of like do I have to change both of those bearings cam an rod bearings
2004 silverado 6.0., oil pressure is at 35 on startup, falls to 18-20 on idle. And moves up slightly while driving with regard to rpms, but rarely goes above 40psi no matter how high the rpms. Changed pickup o ring, sending unit (no screen on this engine), oil pump (primed it when installed), the pressure went right to 40 on start up with the new pump, I thought problem was solved, test drove the truck and it fell to 20 psi pretty quickly. I mech. gauged it, and it reads the same as dash gauge. I'm at a loss as to the cause, any input or advice would be appreciated. Your video leads me to think cam bearings but I'm crossing my fingers it is not. My next plan was to motor flush, change oil and oil filter, add lucas stabilizer, and hope for the best. What's the lowest safe operating oil pressure for these engines? Thank you for the video and any help you can offer.
I have an 01 with same problem. After following all the supposed reasons for low oil pressure with no results I put in different engine. When disassembling old engine I removed rear cover and #5 cam bearing fell out on floor. This was the source of my oil leak I then found out that many Ls engines have this problem with loose cam bearings. Hope you have better luck than I did. If you haven’t fixed it yet keep this in mind.
Absolutely, because the original O rings are so problematic, it automatically gets replaced- and that's true on every engine that uses an O ring at the pickup tube
hey i hav this same problem but only thing is one of my lifters actually shattered inside the block rebuilt it but didn’t change the bearings and have the low oil pressure problem sure that’ll fix it??
I was looking at Summit Racings website to find suggested bearings CC433W and CC433W-1 but can't find them. Have they changed name or replaced with another part number? Great if you can add links to their website. Thanks for a great video!
@@mark_osborne OK. Thank you for fast answer. I hoped to buy all parts from one company to minimize the freight cost (to Sweden). Do you have a part list for everything to order then rebuild a L99-engine and remove AFM but keep VVT?
@@mark_osborne What part name/number do you use for crank bearings? Also if you have any suggestions for a cam shaft (daily drive L99 without AFM with VVT) and pistons?
@@johnnyaberg9617 I am sorry I just do not have the time to go through all this. For one thing you'll need to tear your engine down to even know if you can run standard bearings or if you need to have the crank serviced, so ordering parts is normally done once you know what you need but sure you could get your head gaskets, etc ahead of time.
I have a 2001 6.0. 210k miles it was leaking oil bad and low oil pressure. We pulled the motor and replaced every gasket and o ring. Installed new oil pump and o ring for pickup tube. Threw engine back in and fired it up. Still low oil pressure wont get above 20 psi. What am I missing? Only thing we can think of is a new pickup tube or crankshaft bearings.
Unfortunately you have a bleed somewhere, and it's most likely a combination of wear throughout, meaning, mains and cam bearings. Did you see any metal or aluminum mixed into the sludge on the very bottom of the pan ?
Jonathan Adams when you say your oil pressure won’t get past 20psi is that with engine at operating temp and at idle? I have a 5.3, will idle at 19psi but will bump to 40psi on highway. Just curious because I’m about to do finish doing what you did and don’t want to be disappointed.
I just finished changing my oil pickup tube O-ring today. Fresh oil, Lucas oil stabilizer. And have previously replaced the oil pressure sending unit. Cranked it up and it went straight up to 50psi. Drove it around the block and it was at 30-40. In gear at an idle it drop to 20. Man wth else can I do. Thoughts??
@@russellschroeder990 20 psi at a "hot" idle is perfectly OK, normal (meaning, you took it out for a long ride to get the oil up to temp). How did the bottom of the pan look ? any sparkly metal ? sludge?
Mark Osborne no metal at all in the pan. I was surprised at how clean it was. Cylinder walls still had the cross hatch marks in them. 160k. Yes I got the oil hot. So I guess it’s ok
I have a 07 Denali 6.2 l92 150k oil pressure started acting abnormal meaning it would operate on highway at 38 psi normally but drove it today and wouldn’t go past 20-25 psi driving going 70-80 miles a hour hot tried to give it some higher rpms once on the highway 3-4K rpms but no luck would hardly move up a bit also had a kinda noticeable rough idle getting of the highway pressure dropped to 5 psi maybe lower that I’ve ever seen it before Drove normal but pressure wouldn’t go no where past 20 psi on the highway in the streets maybe 10-15 psi max any suggestions.?
Unfortunately the first thing anyone must do in a case like yours is remove the oil pressure sending unit and pull the little screen out that's below the sending unit. Install a new sending unit and try again. If your oil pressure results are the same, the oil pan must come off and you must inspect for sludge and check the o-ring at the pick up screen. Also, look for metal in the pan. Then go from there. No metal, clean pan? How did the pickup screen feel when you unbolted it ? was it loose in the oil pump? meaning, has the O-Ring shrunk ? because that's what happens sometimes. The O-Ring shrinks and no longer seals the pickup screen to the inlet of the oil pump.
Hey mark I have a 2006 chevy truck 4.8L that has low oil pressure after it warms up and the lights go off because of it and message on dash.It has new pressure sensor and no screen under it,Oil pump and o-ring on pick-up tube and still doing it.What do think? Bearings.
If the oil looks good when you drain off a sample (no metal), and she sounds good when you rev it up to 3000, and you have decent 25-30 PSI oil pressure going down the road, drive it, enjoy it.
@@ryans8309 It's likely general wear in the mains and cam bearings. GM says 7 lbs per 1000 rpms is enough for the engine to live. Even tho the light comes on at an idle, as long as you meet the criteria otherwise (14 lbs @ 2000 rpms, 21 lb @ 3000 rpm)... drive it, enjoy it and try not worry :-)
So my oil pressure drops about every 1,000 miles from 40 to 20. I use Penzoil synthetic. If I change the oil filter my pressure goes back to 40l. This makes no sense to me. do you have any ideas?
No idea. Have you tried different brand oil filters ? Have you cut an old filter apart to see if there is anything in it ? The thing is, if the filter becomes a restriction, the bypass allows the oil to take a different path into the engine, so this is a real head scratcher
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When I sit on the throttle pedal my oil pressure on idle drops to 15 psi (oil temp 245F). When I drive normally idle pressure is 26 psi. SOS )))
If I learned anything today, it is to NOT sit on one's throttle !
@@mark_osborne i mean when I drive on track oil pressure drops to 15psi on very hot idle. Oil pump is new Melling standart. 2011 chevrolet camaro ss 6.2 L99
@@PlymouthBarracudaV8Hemi OMG count your blessings. These things are lucky to have 5 lbs (at idle) after a long hard run on a hot day
Oil pump
@@PlymouthBarracudaV8HemiI have the same problem with my Camaro 2010, L99, I already change oil and filter, and oil pressure sensor, and the problem continues, could you please share with me if you have the solution? Thanks
My Dad has a chevy truck with this engine. He has been struggling for years with oil pressure on it. Changed cam bearing, con rod bearing, crank with matching bearing sets, still low oil. I sent him a link to this video. He threw in a better pump and a few other items that were pointed out. Problem solved, engine running better than ever. Thank you for taking the time to post this video, it has helped at least one old grumpy man.
Oh my gosh, so glad to help (if I was of any help at all) - Thank you !
@@mark_osborne It was a help for sure, you pointed out things he never considered would be an issue. He has thanked me a couple of times now for finding and sharing your video with him. My Dad was getting ready to give up and just get a new truck, or get a rebuilt motor. He replaced all the parts you recommended in the video and all is well now.
I’m considering a high volume/pressure oil pump. Is there any concerns attached to that? Or would just be a simple install without worrying about anything else? It’s a 194k mile 6.2L engine. Light comes on when it gets to operating temp. Immediately goes out when I give it a little bit of throttle. This is all when idling in the driveway (just got the truck not too long ago).
@@mark_osborne I have a question sir 4:18 can a 2011 5.3 LMG engine crankshaft fit on a 2008 5.3 iron block? Or do they have different measurements and calibrations?
@@lenny_miller2357 I've never tried it but I'd be shocked if it wouldn't swap
Thanks for sharing your knowledge I will certainly use your ideas when I build the LS ! 60 psi looks good!
Your knowledge and attitude are top notch. Thank you!
Thank you !
Nice insight on condensation issue, done the select fit mains before but not heard of cam bearing availability before, thanks for sharing. I experimented with lifter bore clearances also for bleed issue.
Thanks !
Those fancy Fingers, for getting the oil off the crank, are called Crank or oil scrapers. Exactly describes what they do. It goes on the side of the crank as it's going back up and removes much of the oil that's in suspension against the crank and drops it right down into the oil pan, usually there's also a windage tray involved. Getting the oil level lower than the throw of the crank also works wonders.
I have also seen these motors running a stock ring gap of .030. That is horribly large. You'll get better fuel mileage and less oil consumption by making it closer to about 18
Yes, you'd want about .004 inch gap per inch of cylinder bore or roughly .016 inch total gap
Thank you Mark...
Your experience based on real knowledge , it was useful information n helpful for me
Thanks !
Just putting the Melling high volume/pressure pump has fixed every one we've had at our shop. Did an 06 Yukon 5.3 last week.. pressure at idle was down to 2 bars on the gauge, 60 on gauge after the new pump. Good belief that the O ring from the pickup tube is main cause letting air in but we've always just changed the pump too
Exactly - unless you had "sludge", in which case a major cleaning was in order before the new pump
I am also an "old school" guy... If I'm going deep enough to change the oil pump pick up tube O ring you bet you ass I'm replacing the pump.
@@greggarner4477 after seeing this tech tip I will shim the bypass spring and ding the bypass on the oil pan! 60 psi when warmed up sure looks good!!
Very informative, just learning about these LS engines, thanks!
Thanks for dropping by !
Very good, it goes right to the problem with some
GMengines. Keep up the good work!
Extremely knowledgeable
GM also change oil filters. From a PF48 to a little taller PF63. I’ve even seen pressure change from using an aftermarket oil filter to oe.
I guess it’s old news - but this is the first I have heard of 1 over bearings. I’m an original owner on a 2004 that now has 260k miles. Always regular oil changes. What it does is a little over 40 psi when cold or on short trips. Once I have been driving about 20 miles the pressure starts fluctuating and dropping. I too have replaced several sending units with no change. So I plan on dropping the engine and freshening it up with new bearings etc. it’s not blown up, I installed a new oil pump, the famous o-ring, it got a new rear cover 30k miles ago, and a new cam plate seal.
They used to have .001, .002 .003 bearings made by federal moral.
Lol, in my area "I'm the guy to go to" too for independent GM issues. What I've learned is "I'm the cheaper than the stealer guy to go to" it took years but I've learned there no loyalty, just an expenses issue
I bought my little 5.3 2wd LS Silverado brand new in 2001, it's closing in on 250k , runs and drives like new...here is how I keep from having lifter and oil pressure problems ...I change the oil between 3k - 5k intervals....a hundred miles before I change the oil, I just add 1/4 of a qt of automatic transmission fluid to the oil, then just change the oil and filter ...! It works on any engine !
Awesome ! ATF is loaded with detergent
My 2005 escalade is having the same problem. Already changed the o ring, pressure sensor, wiring, this will be my next step. Thank you very much for your help.
Let us know how it works out ! Remember, GM's spec for these engines is 7 lbs per thousand RPMs "hot", so if you have that, drive it and forget about it
@@mark_osborne I have that, but the freaking sensor is not shutting off. I keeps peeping while stopped or slowing down.
@@bringbacktheclassics i need to put up the video on how to run a live oil pressure test on these engines. Don't do anything until I do.
I'm having the same issue.. I replaced the oil pickup tube gasket /pressure switch and screen.. drops down to about 10 psi when stopping at a red light
@@mark_osborne thank you, I'm so ready to just buy a new engine 😆
I'm in Milan, need this done on my 05 denali xl. Thanx for sharing
Original Gravity Brewery in Milan ! my favorite stop on the way south :-)
Thank you kind sir for this video! I just replaced my oil pressure sensor in my 2012 about 3 weeks ago and wondered wher in the hell the sludge came from that was plugging up the screen filter.... now I know. Thank you!
Sorry about your misfortune - hope you get your truck back on the road without too much expense
@@mark_osborne changing the oil pressure sensor it needs to change the screen filter as well?
@@mtsanchez27 Yes ! if the engine is producing sludge the screen will be plugged
@@mark_osborne ok thank you very much for the quick response Mark. One more question, do you think is a good idea in changin the oil pan inlet O-ring?
@@mtsanchez27 If you are referring to the pick-up screen O-Ring, absolutely, you always put a new O-Ring on the pickup screen when you have it apart
Good stuff to know. I own a 13 Sierra 5.3 28000miles. No issues yet but I guess I should check oil pressure. Just subscribed.
It's crazy, some of these engines go forever with no issues !
Thank you so much for sharing your info 👍
Saved to my favorites!!!
If you have noisy lifters on cold startup right before your next Oil Change. Put a quart of automatic transmission fluid in the oil and drive for 10 to 20 miles and then change the oil u will be surprised what u find lol.
Yes, ATF is loaded with detergent !
What do you find?
I found ATF or engine clean or kerosene...made no difference in oil pressure for me.
Great video sir well done
Good explanation.
I'm just gonna polish up this Denali and I'm selling it. Asap.
Awesome knowledgeable video sir 👏👍I was wondering what direction you would point me in for getting a new or rebuilt LS? Thank you & take good care! 👋
Great video sir thx u 🙏🏿
LS1 with an MS3 cam PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads stock vortec intake and exhaust manifolds and an m295 oil pump it runs at 40 then goes down as it heats up
2005 Suburban 6.0 SLT Great Strong Running 400,000km, lost oil pressure did everything Oil-sender O-ring etc ended up 2nd cam bearing moved... replace with a 240,000km 6.0 Hard front end collision, Cam Bearings looked good and in-place, Engine sat for many years guessing 3-4 plus years, New O-ring on oil pump and installed a New Oil Sending unit I had... installed ran Great and in about 2-3 miles of test driving LOST OIL PRESSURE :( ........... 400km engine seemed to have more power than 240km engine... Both Ran Smooth
Did you have the oil pan off the new/used engine ? Sounds like the pick-up screen might have plugged up ?
@@mark_osborne 2001 Truck Oil Pan was broken in accident, pickup-tube was not damaged but I used the original 2005 Suburban Oil Pan and Pickup-tube with a New O-ring after pressure washing and cleaning the 2005 Tube and Pan... 45 years Auto-Body I've done many Engine swaps over the Years but always learning... I have about 10 of these trucks so I'll Change the Dash Cluster next with my daily driver both are SLTs and I have a Another New Oil Sender unit coming tomorrow...
@@mark_osborne When I first started the 2001 Replacement 6.0 Engine Oil Pressure came up to just over half... Started a few time Oil Pressure always came up and revving Oil pressure would go to 3/4 on the Dash Gauge... Driving a few miles its now down to 1/4 or below... I'm hoping the CAM bearings didn't move again... BUT if they did I'll install New Bearings and Stage-1 CAM and 706 Heads replacing the 317 Heads... The 2005 Suburban was a FIX & SELL because it was so nice and solid still :)
Nice shop!!
Thanks Hector
I dig the calendar!!!
That's been stuck on the same month for 25 years 🙂
@@mark_osborne Thats when they made good ones that still had some taste to them! We did a dod delete for a guy found out some wix filters are not the best to use. switched to a K&N and gained 8 psi at idle at operating temp.
@@dennisrice9222 How interesting !
Interesting video Mark.. It seems from your comments that the engines are not oil starved since you are not seeing a lot of wear or other issues. So changing a lot of components or even upgrading from OEM design is not a great cost effective option for the weekend warrior. I would upgrade the oil pump to deliver slightly more pressure as well as investigating and replacing any worn or compromised seals like the oil pump o-ring seal. I have a 2010 Chevy Avalanche that has now had two failed oil pressure sensors! I only replace with the OEM sensors and the screen as well.
Spot on ! For what it's worth, I only use OEM gaskets
@@mark_osborne I also tell people that OEM is NOT more expensive and are designed for the application. Great tips.
@@KarateSensei71 yes yes
Great video. Cleaning/ replacing/ removing the screen under the oil pressure sending unit may help. Another known culprit for low oil pressure is low viscosity oil, and the orange rubber seal on the oil pickup up line can be crushed. I came across this video because I've got low oil pressure on my 06 chevy suburban with 306,000 miles. I'm gonna go change the oil pressure sensor and see if that helps. If not then it will be oil change to 10w30 synthetic oil. If that doesn't help, then I'm gonna change that oil seal on the oil pickup by dropping the pan.
Where in Michigan are you? I'm also in Michigan.
Thanks for the info, my 6.2 has low oil pressure as well. I think I’m going to do the AFF delete, I’ve already done the oil pump and pickup tube o-ring. The one thing that I’m not comfortable with is going in to the short block. So hopefully the AFF takes care of it.
G Garza: I'm into the same issue as you have had. Do you possible have a list of all parts you ordered for your engine rebuilt? I'm trying to put together a complete list for my L99-engine rebuilt but there's a djungle with all different parts to choose from and easy to forgett sometjing.
@@johnnyaberg9617 just Google LS3 DOD delete kit. The heads have to come off. Don't be cheap and replace the lifters. At the very least, replace the DOD lifters. Use GM head gaskets and a Melling 10296 oil pump. Do the timing chain while you're there and replace the spring chain tensioner with a LS2 style solid dampener. All the LS3/99 spring tensioners eventually break.
Good information
Don't forget to change the O Ring on the oil pick up tube!
Absolutely !
Low oil pressure may only be the o ring on the pickup tube.
th-cam.com/video/vbKEythkj6k/w-d-xo.html
Does this cover the 2007 5.7 ?
Silverado my oil pressure has gone from a steady 40 to 20. No noise in motor it sounds like a dream..temp 210 steady it switches to 4 cylinders for gas mileage. Hope your doing well.
I've already made up my mind with mine. If/when my 2008 5.3 tanks due to AFM. I will shop around for a low mileage 4.8... That engine caught a lot of guff due to being underpowered compared to it's big brother 5.3 - but it doesn't have any AFM related issues because it doesn't have AFM!
4.8s are awesome engines. BTW, you can completely eliminate the AFM on your 5.3 by using an aftermarket (valley pan) block off plate and replacing the AFM lifters with standard lifters. You do not have to change the camshaft as many suggest, then flash the PCM with an aftermarket tuner. You can do it all yourself. I've done it, they run great.
I grew up in that era where we either used a 0.001” oversized bearings, std on bottom and thicker on top, check with plastic gauge then repeat as needed. My favorite is the sheets of 0.0001”, 0.0002” and so on, but called shim stock. I have some in my tool box right now! New to many but guy like you and perhaps myself, where working on vehicles that had scoops on the rod cap and no oil filter. Ask a tech today “What is a draft tube” and they can’t answer.
What you are doing is old school by using common sense and you experience to examine new technologies, figure out how it works and what goes wrong with it.
Also, the moisture in the crankcase is next to impossible to deal with under many conditions as you described. How can driving short trips to work can kill my oil, then damage my engine.
I know it’s been almost 6 years, I think, but look into “Team RX performance” and their technology with oil catch cans. As they worked to create products that remove up to 95% of un burned raw fuel, acids and moisture from re-entering the intake. Cam lobe overlap creates puffs of air pushing these emissions products onto the backside of the throttle valve, coating the air plenum, intake & runners, then the back of the intake valve. I’ve spent hours over a wire wheel on a bench grinder just to prepare the valves for refacing.
I am almost 62, but started turning wrenches at 11 to make one gas lawnmower from two that did not run. Just to get paid $1 to mow a yard, better than 3 cents per bale of hay for the neighbors. No tech school and asked by the service manager to get one tech certified, then passed all 8 in 1978. The dealer said “DATSUN” on the front sign. I was the only one using the 3-gas exhaust analyzer as no one else new what they where looking at.
Either way, I enjoyed your commanding description of current issues & what you did to fix them.
I quit a dealer in July, 99 for an instructors job. A technician ask me how the fuel pump on his 2-stroke bass boat engine worked. It was at that point I realized he grew up in the age of fuel injection. No clue about carburetors or a two stroke engine worked without an electric fuel pump. Wow!
You are very plugged-in my friend, you know 1000 times more than most mechanics
Thanks for the kind words. Coming from another expert in the industry means something to me. Just started crazy early in life with fixing machinery on a farm. Parents & grandpa didn’t know how but someone had to do it.
Blessings and stay healthy my friend!
@@deankay4434 I'm feeling it ! my parents and grandparents were farmers and carpenters so - yes !
@@deankay4434 Same here Dean, started fixing the neighbor's cars long before i had a license to drive - thanks to my grandpa mostly for having the confidence in me to let me play around with some of his farm equipment :-)
@@mark_osborne Learning something you enjoy, never stops. On the farm, I had two older cousins that came from KC each summer, as their dad was single. One year they had a go-cart. This is a 60’s model. You wrapped a knotted rope around the slotted pulley, made sure the spring clip was off the plug, then you found dirt around the barns. They went home and I broke it. Being 4-6 years older, I figured I had to fix this or move to Mexico, as they would whip my behind. I fixed it. So learning by book, asking questions until they ran me off, or stood there and watched. Either way, from my job to hold the flashlight, or weld the disc from underneath an get slag burns in the pit of my elbow to one day, had a large one melted into my “Converse” tennis shoe, & landed between my big toe & #2 and hurt like hell. I wiggled from under 20+ disc blades to find a mud puddle in the dirt bard yard to stick my bare foot. I lost track of how many times a Dr. or blood bank ask me about these scars...like I shoot-up in these spots everyday. It’s called welding upside down while on the farm. I would laugh and them to try it as most have never seen a welder in their life. That life...and learning from mistakes or doing it right! Blessing to all that learn while very young to fix machinery, milked a cow or know what a “Wheat Drill” is. Good times!
I had a 2011 5.3, low oil pressure. Ended up being the oil pump pickup tube oring, was split in half.
That will do it !
oem or not those gaskets for the rear main housing and front timing cover seal will eventually leak
What part of Michigan ? Love the video
mark thanks for such a very educational video i appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with others if i am doing a dod delete is it ok to use the original oil pump that came on the 08 afm engine because they are a high volume and pressure pump from what i have heard or would you recommend going with stock pressure and volume your input greatly appreciated thank you in advance Robert
If you are pulling apart the bottom end, you can stick in a Melling M335 or M365 pump, both have 1.28 cuin/rev, the 335 has 43 psi blow off valve, the 365 has 33 psi. I'd run the 335 if it were my truck. If you are not pulling apart the bottom end and have reasonable oil pressure just do the DOD delete and drive it and enjoy it
Quick question for you. We have an 07 GMC with the 6.2 non AFM. Had low oil pressure at idle when warm, the oil pressure was basically 0 (on the red line for the gauge) when idling. If you kept the rpm’s up at about 1000 at a stop it would come just a tick above the red. We changed the oil control valve, timing chain, oil pump and o-ring. The cam sensor and oil pressure sending unit had previously been replaced. After the job the oil pressure is at about 30 when cruising, 20 when going about 40 mph coasting and drops to about 10 at idle at a stop. The VVT motors are new to us and my husband doesn’t like the oil pressure at idle. Is there anything else we could have missed. It does have the pressure relief valve in the pan and to be honest he didn’t touch that part. No sludge and everything was pretty clean. Thanks!
Drive it, enjoy it. GM's spec is 7 lbs per 1000 RPM's "hot", so you are within acceptable range. Have you seen my video on a live oil pressure test? You may have more oil pressure than what the gauge shows
thanks
Yup going thru the same problem right now as I type this I have 2011 avalanche and the mechanic installed new cam bearings, new camshaft, new crankshaft and crankshaft bearings, new ls7 lifters ,oil pressure sensor, did a DOD delete, new high volume oil pump with new O ring on pick up tube, anyways he forgot to replace the camshaft thrust plate idk why he would forget that but hoping that would solved my low oil pressure issue I’ll give u guys a update when it’s all done …
Probably not the issue- but let us know . Do a live oil pressure test
I like the idea of swapping out the AFM lifters for standard lifters. Although everyone that sells a delete kit recommends a new cam. I am in the middle of cleaning up an exhaust valve on a 2010 silverado 5.3 afm. going to delete the afm also. Its got just over 100,000 miles and has been well taken care of. The only concern is a misfire on number 8 cylinder. A dealership had diagnosed an oil issue that was not even the issue. But since i am in this far would you recommend replacing the oil pump and timing chain and clean out the oil pan? And how sure are you of the lifter swap?
Wow there's a lot there to digest. We don't know what's causing the misfire on #8 correct ? Yes you can run standard lifters on your camshaft. Your cam is pushing on lifters right now, opening the valves right ? so how does the cam know the new lifters never shut off? It's nonsense to say you must change the cam. (yes it's true the non-AFM cam is a different number) These engines build sludge especially in humid environments, so you could have sludge and not even know it. The O-ring at the pump is another known failure. The pumps themselves virtually never fail, it's just that the new Melling pump is an improvement. Pulling the short block out of these trucks is fairly easy -IMO, so yes, I'd do it. Oh, and use GM gaskets for everything, they cost no more than aftermarket and you'll never have a leak.
@@mark_osborne Thanks for the info. Good video too.
Ultimately you can thank the EPA
This is true because of increased fuel economy standards, GM was trying to reduce internal resistance by using lighter oils and lower oil pressure. You are very perceptive. Look at the Cruze engine, the variable oil pump gets them 1/4 of a MPG at BEST, yet they incorporated that technology and added expense. Same with the new Ford 7.3 liter gas.
😂😂😂 yup
Thanks Mark just ran into your channel of course I liked and subscribed I'm from Illinois what would you normally charge for that sludge type of repair?
$ varies widely based on the vehicle and what specifically needs to be done
I got an 11 yukon denali. I jammed the same lifter 4000 miles apart a couple years ago. Kept stock cam. Put all 16 straight roller lifters in. Afm delete chip. Now no oil pressure. First did sensor and screen. Then did o ring. Then did melling high volume oil pump and still low pressure. No sludge either. None
you're bleeding oil somewhere huh, could be passing by the mains. How were the lifter bores ? Did the lifters fit tight ?
Yes. I was surprised. But that was 30k miles ago. Everything has been good. Then the pressure went to 80 then next day 0 with engine light on. That's when I changed the sensor and screen. But I did notice u said u always change out that valley pan. When I did the lifters I just installed that outter gasket on the valley pan. So I ordered a new deleted 1 today so hopefully that gets it.
The lifters slide in like a glove. Also replace the rods and rockers
New deleted valley pan and pressure is almost 60 cold and 40 hot! Thanks for the video
What about oil pump pressure solinoid which is attached to the oil pump ? It's failing all the time
Ive got a 2004, 6.0, 208k and it starts ticking at higher rpms and speeds, not at idol. New oil pump and pressure is 40-60 at freeway speeds. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance for any help
Do you know if the cam bearings are the same for a 2005 5.3
Just bought an 07 I live in Ohio how often should these electric fans cut on I pretty sure I haven't hurd it once since I bought it
I live in NC and water getting in the motor well looking under the oil fill cap and clean water drops being under it I wonder if a new front GM SEAL would help that all the 1s I see didn't do that till they got 170 thousand miles or more on them just thinking out loud 🤔?
In all likelihood it's just condensation. Are you consuming coolant ?
Im have this same problem were is your shop located and whats you price on a rebuild
Great video! I will do the rebuild as you suggest in the video (on my L99-engine and remove AFM but keep VVT). Should I keep the valve train oil pressure valve as is, plug or change to another type? I will use the high pressure oil pump.
I'm not sure what you mean by the valve train oil pressure plug, please explain
@@mark_osborne The factory AFM oil pans have a pressure relief valve on the inside of the oil pan next to the two holes on the driver's rear side of the pan. Should I keep this valve or block it?
Reply
@@johnnyaberg9617 Oh THAT relief valve. Yes, I understand. If that valve is clean and working correctly, it will only bleed off excess oil pressure beyond something like 70 lbs (don't hold me to the exact number), so it won't hurt leaving it. However, I also understand there's a school of thought that says- simply block it off. And I can't argue against that being as you are deleting the AFM. So it would be your call.
When the hole is smaller on the I.D. it is under size. When it is bigger on the O.D it is oversize
Warning! If you install non dod lifters in place of dod lifters you have to change the cam. The cam is ground different for the dod lifters and the result will be 20 lbs less of compression and the ecm will see it as a misfire on all 4 dod cylinders at idle. Also you said it goes from 4 to 6 to 8 cylinders, the only GM I know that did the 6 cylinder trick was the 1981 Cadillac 4-6-8 engine.
You are correct, I misspoke when I included "6".... (it comes from the old days of working on the Cadillacs). I won't argue your point on the camshaft as far as cylinder pressure but I can tell you we've done several swaps to standard lifters (leaving the original cam) and had ZERO issues with misfire codes. Thanks for dropping by
What brand and part numbers for the cam bearings used? You used tighter tolerances in some and standard for a couple? I'm about to try the same methods on my 07 yukon denali 6.2 l92. It's stock not dod/afm. Big thanks!
Go to EngineTech website and search your engine, the cam bearings will show up. You can buy them on RockAuto. Yes I used tighter bearings in only 4 spots as I recall. You have to do it by "feel", meaning, if the cam fits the original bearing with reasonable clearance, and the bearing looks good- leave it alone.
2004 Chevy Silverado, 315k miles. Oil pressure gauge is erratic, reads almost 80 and then will drop to zero for a bit, and then jumps back up to 80. For the past 15k miles every so often when I start the truck in the mornings thick white smoke comes out the exhaust for a few seconds and then its gone. So, what would be my problem with the oil pressure?
how much would you say this rebuild cost?
I have a 2013 5.3. For the second time I have a collapsed lifter on cylinder #6. I fairly certain that the AFM lifter manifold is the culprit. Do you think replacing the manifold will allow the collapsed lifter to reengage, or would that be wasting time and require the heads to be pulled.
Sorry just seen this. It's possible it's a timing issue, meaning, if the lifter doesn't get actuated at the correct time, it can gall the pin and ultimately the lifter can stick. Being as it's happened twice on the same cylinder, I'd bet that is the problem. I don't know the fix. But if you can replace the lifter once more and deactivate the AFM, you'll likely be good to go. Sorry for your trouble.
@Dan Dixon And that makes sense Dan because when oil gets low, air in the oil causes hell with ANY lifters, but the AFM lifters (especially) can't tolerate it. Thanks for your response
Hello where are you located in Michigan? Thanks
Just happened to run into this channel! Good info, what should be the normal pressure at idle?
GM spec is 7 lbs per 1000 RPM (hot) . I know, scary !
@@mark_osborne Thank you Brother 👍🏼
Need help I did a custom grind cam on my 2006 envoy Denali 5.3 and it doing a loud ticking noise I’m loosing a lot of oil pressure what could be the cause
Where are you located in Michigan? None of my local shops want to tackle this for me, I’m in northern ohio
Got a 2007 gmc with the L76 HO 6.0 afm stopped working, changed oil pressure sending unit/screen, still getting 10psi. Dash warning to shut off engine while on freeway. Had 5 psi. Confirmed 7ish psi with Guage. Changed oil/filter with 15w-40 and a quart of paratone. 40 psi at 2k rpm, 30 at idle. Afm started working, cel turned off. 176k miles, think I'm going to rebuild and delete afm.
PARATONE is a viscosity modifier. Wonder how that helped anything. But you might have cleared a clog at the pickup screen enough to reestablish oil pressure.
Whats the best oil pump to put in a 2003 chevy 2500hd 6.0 engine gas engine watch milly oil pump put out the highest
I just changed my oil pump with new pick up tube o rings, everything looked good in my oil pan because i dropped it and changed my oil pressure sendind unit and the screen under it. Still when I first crank my truck up its at normal pressure then it casually drops as it idles but fluctuates and drops when i drive. Should i worry?
GM spec is 7 lbs per 1000 rpm, so if you have at least 14 lbs at 2000, 21 lbs at 3000 and 28 lbs at 4000 you should be fine especially considering your pan was clean. Drive it, enjoy it !
I have a 2008 5.3L in a Suburban. Oil pressure was low about 5 years ago and lifters were ticking. I put in a Melling high volume oil pump and new pick-up O-ring and it solved the problem. Last year I did an AFM delete after engine started knocking a bit. Found one cam lobe worn but no other damage. Since then, the oil pressure is significantly lower, despite putting in all standard lifters and replacing the AFM/DOD valley cover with a new blank valve cover with o-rings covering the oil ports. Changed the cam to an aftermarket non-dod cam (it's definitely different than the dod cam and the engine idled rough until I changed it). Changed the cam retainer cover with new. Oil pressure has been relatively low every since but still about 15 psi at hot idle. Recently got a low oil pressure code. Engine has 220k on it. Runs great with no noise. After seeing this video I am wondering if aftermarket cam has too much clearance with original cam bearings. Wondering if I should switch to 5w-40 oil ?
It's likely a combination of clearances everywhere, but if you have 15 lbs at a hot idle, you're good to go! Drive it, enjoy it. Oh, and very interesting about the cam/idle.... IDK what to say about that, I've done several AFM deletes and never changed the cam and they ran perfect. BTW if you look up the cam specs, you will see the AFM and non-AFM cams are almost identical- the tiny variation must have been required to pass CAFE (my guess)
Thank you Mark. Great video ! You are obviously the voice of experience. I read that the ramp rates on the DOD cams are different on the four DOD cylinders. The result is cylinder pressure may be down as much as 20 psi due to longer seat timing. This does not sound like a lot, but mine idled rough until I changed the cam. Also the ECM detected the imbalance and gave P1174-1175 codes and miss-fire codes. All went away after I put in a non-dod cam. That's when my oil pressure dropped; after the cam replacement.
Very informative video, thanks for posting, what part of Michigan are you located?
South East
@@mark_osborne I'm in SE MI. also. My 2011 Silverado acts up every year with the low oil pressure nonsense . It clears up when I do a flush but would be nice to have it solved. It literally JUST started acting up again and I'm at 75% oil life and was down almost 1full qt oil. 85K miles. I also noticed my oil cap had ice underneath from condensate. How does a dude get in touch with you to get his rig fixed?
Hi! I a'm following your suggestion to rebuild my L-99 (Camaro 2012 SS with auto). Summit Racing doesn't sell cam bearings standard CC433W and CC433W-1 (.001 undersized)! Is there any other replacement parts that you can suggest (and is available at Summit)? I have tried to get an answer from Summit but don’t get any.
Forget Summit Racing. Summit Racing is not for re-builders, it's for people who want to put 11:1 pistons in their Camaro, or some huge camshaft.
EngineTech brand at Rockauto
Hello Mark, watching your video I'm starting to think maybe my LS 5.3 on a 2003 silverado just needs a rebuild because I took it to a local well know mechanic's shop and they replaced the oil pump, pick up and timing chain and still has low oil pressure problems with the oil pressure warning coming on. This engine historically has always had "lower than normal" oil pressure and was used when I bought it, was told this is "normal" for these trucks by the salesperson. FF 10 years later the oil pressure warning starts coming on and I spent $$$ getting new oil pump put in and the mechanic says "prob due to all the gunk in the engine". Anyways with the new oil pump oil pressure midway between 1/4 and 1/2 the gauge for first 10 min or so but after it warms up, you have to idle higher at stop lights to keep the pressure up and warning light from coming on.... I'm just thinking sell this truck and get out from under it anymore, any thoughts on your end?
Yup, she's probably got extra clearance now in the main bearings and cam bearings - which happens with age. No easy fix other than pulling the engine down and going through it, which is actually quite easy if you have the skill set
@@mark_osborne thank you Sir, really appreciate it.
Hi - Know this was posted a bit ago, but had a few questions. 2011 5.3 GMC Sierra Crew Cab w/ 147,000 miles. AFM/DOD was deleted via software about a year ago, but no kit work performed such as new cam, lifters, valley plate, etc. I'm now experiencing low oil pressure (~40 lbs at cold start, ~20 lbs hot and running/~10 lbs at hot idle - engine light is on, but no oil pressure warnings); the oil pressure sender/sensor and screen have been replaced 2x with no positive effect. A mechanic advised the engine needed to be replaced as the cam bearings were bad. Would appreciate your thoughts and recommendation before $8-10k is dropped on a re-built engine; note that I was advised an engine replacement would be more economical than an engine rebuild given all the parts, labor, etc. Have seen a few posts where cam, bearings, etc were replaced, but the issue persisted. Have seen some recommendations to try ATF flush or maybe even a thicker oil. Should I try an O ring replacement in the oil pan first? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or recommendations.
10 lbs at a hot idle is still completely acceptable. What is the oil pressure "hot" at 3000 RPM ?
I'll take it out for a drive tomorrow and let you know. I think it stays around ~15 - 20 lbs, but will confirm. Thanks so much for such a quick reply. Wish you were in TN....lol.@@mark_osborne
@@mark_osborne Hi - Took it out for a drive today. Temp was 42 degrees. At cold start, typical 40 lbs dropping to about 30 after sitting in the driveway for a few min. Running hot at 1200 rpm/40 mph, pressure was around 17 lbs. At 3100, 3200 and 3400 rpms, pressure was consistent at 19-20 lbs. Runs great with no issues or loss of power. Thanks again for your consult!
@@rkniii10 Well, if in fact the gauge is reading correctly, 19-20 lbs @ 3400 is on the low side, but if it sounds good and otherwise runs good, I'd just drive it. You could run a live oil pressure test just to see if the gauge is reading correctly. It involves taking a plug out of the oil galley (just behind the power steering pump) and threading in a live gauge, then compare the readings with the gauge on the dash. There's a video on my channel that talks about this. The truck in the video (the gauge) was reading about 10 lbs lower than what it tested using a live gauge.
@@mark_osborne Thanks so much. I'll prob take your advice and just run it for a bit and see how it goes. If static, all good. If goes much lower, guess I'll need to look at either a rebuild or reman engine. I did see on some of your replies to others that replacing a cam after DOD/AFM delete is not necessary. And in this video, your customer is keeping their original DOD lifters and you said that should work fine, so seems a delete kit (lifters, cam, vlom/valley plate) is really not necessary after a software update/delete of AFM?
Hey Mark just built an l92 rods and mains measured between .002 and . 0015 they installed standard cam bearings. And I reused the vvt cam they polished it and said it looked good. Problem is my hot idle oil pressure is around 16 psi Seems low, im thinking that old cam is bleeding oil maybe the journals are to small after they polished it. What do you think?
When you polish a crank or cam the amount of material you remove is next to nothing. I highly doubt they removed enough material to cause a bleed. 16 lb of hot oil pressure is very good for these engines - drive it, enjoy it !
@@mark_osborne wow thanks Mark for putting my mind at ease. Just strange how my iron block 6.2 has like 35 psi at hot idle and this one has so much less.
Great video. I have a 07 Silverado 1500 and the oil pressure goes around 30-35 while driving. But, I’m having a knocking that goes on and off randomly. I’ve seen more videos about rocker arms needed adjustment, but I’m not sure. It has 140k miles on it and never had a problem before and it’s not loosing power neither. Also, almost every time that i cold start it, it will blow white ball smoke out of the exhaust. Any advice I will appreciate it!
spark knock under load ? Rockers are not adjustable but do commonly wear out on these engines- the push rod tip wears into the rocker arm. But that's a clicking sound that will basically be there all of the time.
Mark Osborne I appreciate your help and time!
Yes, I can agree with you. That makes more sense. What would be the solution for that?
@@chrissm757 I'm sorry, impossible for me to diagnose without actually hearing it :-(
Mark Osborne I understand. Thank you!
@christian negron > The 07 may have active fuel management or 4 cylinders to 8 cylinders activation. Use a live oil gauge, but at the back, under oil pressure sensor is a screen. It can plug, poor ground thru harness or bad sensor. The valve manifold that controls lifter has High fail rate. If CMP is on T-Chain cover, it has AFM. Get it diagnosed! Knock or tap is not good and many fixes, some cheap, some not. They offer AFM delete kits for LS Swaps.
There is a real good oil pressure video by a Hispanic guy I think, I saw it a few months ago and very impressed with his talent.
Hey Mark. I got an issue in my 4.8 ltr. LY2 engine, 180k miles. Driving one night lost oil pressure. I replaced the oil pickup tube, oil pump oil pan and oil pressure sensor. No go. Considering your expertise with this type of engine, would you have any idea what is going on with this engine? I am at a loss. The only thing I can think of is something internally within the engine has given. Thank you for your time and advice.
Have you ran a live oil pressure test ? Check out my latest video on doing a live oil pressure test and report back
AFAIK 4.8s never had AFM so that eliminates some possible problems. Still, you have a number of gaskets and seals under oil pressure. Those are what I would look at. You don't have a VLOM but the valley cover that you do have still has to contain oil pressure where it seals to the block under the pressure sensor. The cam plate that Mark shows is another as well as a similar cam plate at the rear.
There is a good video that traces the oiling system of LS engines. Search that and it will show you some potential internal leaks. In fact, here it is:
th-cam.com/video/DNvu0_eeAG8/w-d-xo.html
Good luck. I am dealing with a similar problem (5.3 DoD though) and formulating a plan before I tear into it. Mine is still running OK but I noticed pressure was down a few weeks ago. Went from @40psi at idle since new to 20psi. Builds up to 35-40 with revs. Changed oil this morning and like magic it is back to 40 at idle. I change oil at about 5000 miles. Oil, filter and all passages that I could see looked clean. Oil looked decent enough. It is perplexing.
I've had oil seeping at the rear of engine for a long time but never a drop on the ground. Any significant leakage has to be internal. There are a couple of fittings available which let you tap into the oil pump output to assure that the pump is making pressure. After that, it's a matter of figuring out where the leak or blockage is.
Hey Mark I have a question....I have a 2005 Tahoe and no one where I live can figure out what it is and I’m not putting anymore money it and no one wants to buy it. I have a high oil pressure issue and I switched out the oil pressure switch and it’s still on high. It’s still tapping after lifers has been changed. After driving for about 30-45 min the power is lost
Sorry for your trouble Carlos. I'll bet your gauge is reading wrong and you actually have low oil pressure based on the lifter noise and it's very likely either sludge in the pan blocking the oil pickup screen or possibly the O-ring is shot where the pickup screen goes into the oil pump. Unfortunately it's not easy to access the oil pressure sending unit or I would suggest putting a live gauge in the port and measure the actual oil pressure to confirm my suspicions.
Hey Mark. Very informative video! I’m a young tech getting into the industry within the last ten years. I’ve learned a lot from you advanced techs on here. I have a channel started, check it out sometime if you have extra time and are interested. Anyways I have a customer with a 2007 Tahoe w/ 5.3 oil pressure hovers around 20/25 and rises fairly strongly with RPM. The owner wants to start with cheapest option. What would you say the odds are of sludged pressure sensor screen? Customer admits to be about 800 miles over on oil change. I just wanted to pick your brain on the matter. I’m guessing odds are it’s an item you listed here in the video or a combination of them but for $60 and 20 minutes I figured pressure sensor/screen might be a start. Thanks again for the knowledge!
If he has 20-25 lbs at a hot idle, he doesn't have a problem- GM spec is 7 lbs/1000 RPM (hot). But those screens can be a problem, personally, I leave them out. I recently did a video on how to do a live oil pressure test. Thanks, I will check out your channel
@@mark_osborne well come to find out after scanning vehicle. it’s going low enough to set pressure performance code and shut off engine warning. I have the equipment to test darn near everything else on a vehicle but not oil pressure gauge. Time to buy one. Lol.
first thing is to remove that stupid screen under oil pressure sensor. secondly the oil pickup tube o-ring at oil pump is another culprit. it will fail allowing air to be sucked into oil sytem and possibly allowing oil to bleed out. next there is an oil pressure bypass valve inside the oil pan near the oil filter location. these can fail allowing oil to bleed out. this pressure valve is on the ls engines with DOD and or AFM. another thing is to never use any oof brand oil filter as they have been known to cause oil pressure issues.
I've got a 2007 Yukon Denali 6.2 non DOD that sounds like it has a collapsed lifter though I can't locate a loose rocker. Truck runs great just rattles and low oil pressure at an idle after it completely warms up. You mentioned you could hear the cam rattling when the bearing tolerances are out. Could this be what I'm hearing?
You won't hear the cam rattling, that was just an observation I made during assembly showing the extra clearance before installing the tighter bearings. It's possible you have a lazy lifter however, these engines EAT rocker arms and push rods and are notorious for rocker arm noise.
@@mark_osborne thankyou, I will install a new oil pump and research the lifter noise further. Appreciate your help
Mine isn't a dod. I have a broken inner valve spring on an exhaust valve
@@danmeksch5167 Very good, easy fix !
Have a 2011 Silverado k1500 crew cab 5.3 litre, I am getting only about 15psi on warm idle,is that too low,or,do I need to seek a different problem?I just had the oil pressure sensor and filter screen replaced, because the truck kept saying oil pressure low,shut off engine. I have had the afm locked out with the range afm disabler,for a couple of years.
Drive it, enjoy it,try to ignore the alarm
@@mark_osborne tyvm.I don't have the alarm anymore since I replaced the sensor, as well as did a complete oil change, and added Lucas oil treatment
Thank u for info. Great stuff
Thanks for watching !
Sorry to be another question - but my case doesn't quite line up with your original customer.
I'm having similar issues, but it doesn't seem to be temperature based. It seems to be based more on run time. If I let the truck sit for 10-20 minutes I have 25 psi at idle, at 3400 rpm I have 45 psi. As I drive it around over 20-30 minutes it slowly makes less pressure across the board until I'm playing with the magic 10 psi mark. I've read online that 3 or 4 seconds under 10 psi and the truck shows the low oil pressure warning, which is what I'm getting. Even letting it sit for 5 minutes brings it back to "normal" for a few minutes, though it degrades faster if it's less than a 10 minute break.
I've tried the sensor and AFM screen under it (the new screen helped a little, but not too much). The new sensor is reading exactly the same as the old one.
I'm dubious a new pickup o-ring will fix it, but that's obviously easier than pulling the whole motor. I'd obviously like to try the o-ring if there was even a chance, but it seems like that would just show low pressure all the time.
This motor is no spring chicken (at 212k today), but has had several odd problems over the years - had a lifter lock (or something) and bend a pushrod, and had a valve seat split and fall right out of the head. If I'm almost certainly looking at new cam bearings, it might just be time to move on.
I'd really like to hear your thoughts as I make a decision here.
Nice chatting with you !
@Josh Mason >I feel your pain but low oil pressure can come from a bad cam bearing, you would have repeat lifter failure as all are rollers. They would fail fast. Check oil level before & after pressure drops. Caked oil or stem seals can block oil return holes in the heads. Oil pumps with higher volume are sold at Rock Auto under the “Melling” brand for $130+ and come with thicker gears, shimmed pressure relief spring but include 2 size O-rings for pickup tube. Use vasoline on it to install. eBay sells a bracket that supports the tube and uses the second hole. You may not be able to wrench it, but take an old 12 point combination wrench, heat it with a torch and bend it for this job. Many change out all DOD lifters but requires the heads off. A decent head-set will cost less than new set of torque to yield bolts, but many re-use these bolts once with no failures. These are several places for loss of oil pressure, but a high volume pump, new o-ring will get you going. The higher the volume only matches the wider clearance in cam, crank, cam bearings, until it over comes the excessive loss that comes with wear. Short trips that do not bring engine up to temperature will kill oil’s additives fast. If no short trips, skip this but other family member do need warning. Low is never good, but wiped on finger, if too dark to see thru, change it. Best of luck buddy!
ASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired
@@deankay4434 thanks for the info. I've been monitoring the oil with Blackstone reports every oil change. While the copper is a little higher than I'd like, it's not enough to show the cam bearings are toast. And this low oil pressure situation was a sudden occurrence. I actually talked to Mark about it and we both feel it's likely the short trips this thing sees have created some sludge that's probably clothing the pickup screen. The lifter filter was definitely gummed up pretty badly. Between that and a loose o-ring, there's a decent chance a screen / pickup replacement will sort us out. But I HAVE had trouble with a collapsed AFM lifter a couple years ago, which did necessitate pulling the head (after which I replaced all 16 lifters) - and one of the reasons I've been getting the oil tested. The level check after hot is a good tip, too - I assume a Seafoam treatment would be the easy fix there (assuming it actually worked) - if not, obviously a full teardown would be in order.
@@jkmason88 >In Omaha, you can get a truck engine at the bone yard for less than $300. Change the oil pan if needed and put a non- AFM engine in it. Send the PCM to Brenden at LT1Swap.com and he can program it for $75. He’s in NW Missouri. Look him up and call or email. Tell him what you got and he can tell you what engines to but. Plus, there is a huge market out there that buys these engines to rebuild for swapping into 67 C10 trucks, 80’s Monte Carlo’s and even Nissans. They are using this engine in everything. Just look at the door sticker as the 8th digit tells what engine you have, plus you know the year. The production date in on that sticker as well. If it’s a truck/SUV, the RPO codes are in the glove box. Monitoring the metal in the oil is big truck normal, but if copper is high, the lead/tin is wore off and into the coating of a bearing shell. That part is either aluminum or steel. Best of luck!
ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired
@@deankay4434 I have never had lead or tin in my oil even as copper has increased over the last 70k miles. I may be mistaken, but I do not believe the LS3 has lead or tin bearing material. And to my knowledge LS3s are not available anywhere for $300.
This whole discussion seems a little overkill when a new oil pickup tube and o-ring is a likely solution and costs $32 at the dealer...
My experience is majority of LS low oil pressure issues are worn cam bushings
I believe it
My 05 Silverado has higher oil pressure when it's hot. I know that's backwards but that's what the gauge says. It only has 30 psi when cold max and will go to 60 psi when hot at 5500 rpm 40 psi at 1500 rpm. There's a lifter clicking when the oil is cold. I use 5w30 oil too like it says. If you put thicker oil in it the oil pressure is worse and lifters clatter worse. Is that a common problem? There's no glitter in the oil and doesn't knock when you change oil.Thanks!
Never heard of that one before !...lol.. It's extremely common for the rocker arm to wear out where the push rod engages, they just eat themselves alive on these engines. That will often show up when it's cold and get less noticeable when the oil warms up. Try to identify which side it's coming from and remove the valve cover and then the rockers and look for wear. Very very common. Will sound like lifters.
@@mark_osborne great info about the rockers, thank you!
I have a 2009 5.3 lc9 and had low oil pressure I replaced pickup tube o-ring as well as oil pressure switch and screen. The sludge was horrible but I cleaned everything up it's been fine until 2 days ago. Oil pressure went from 35 psi at warm idle to a little over 20 psi. Any thoughts? The other work was completed last spring. I use valvoline 5w30 high mileage with an gm oil filter.
I'm sorry, I haven't a clue
@Ken Call I love it ! Keep 'em oiled up and they'll almost last forever. (I have an old Ranger I've kept oiled up for 26 years)
Mark Osborne agreed oiling works great I have a 1992 Chevy tracker oiled even under carpet o rust in rust belt Ontario
What do you think of Moroso pre oiler? My Suburban ,no oil pres at start,1 mile down road, 45 psi.
Can't really say, I'm lost on the finite details of your situation
Hi
In the 2003 silverado 6.0 ,it have screen filter after the oil sensor like in the 2007-2014?
Thanks
No- it does not
Can you help me I changed my oil pump 2 time an still got low oil pressure but when we took out the oil pan had metal sand look of like do I have to change both of those bearings cam an rod bearings
Unfortunately you must tear the engine apart and find out where that metal is coming from
2004 silverado 6.0., oil pressure is at 35 on startup, falls to 18-20 on idle. And moves up slightly while driving with regard to rpms, but rarely goes above 40psi no matter how high the rpms. Changed pickup o ring, sending unit (no screen on this engine), oil pump (primed it when installed), the pressure went right to 40 on start up with the new pump, I thought problem was solved, test drove the truck and it fell to 20 psi pretty quickly. I mech. gauged it, and it reads the same as dash gauge. I'm at a loss as to the cause, any input or advice would be appreciated. Your video leads me to think cam bearings but I'm crossing my fingers it is not. My next plan was to motor flush, change oil and oil filter, add lucas stabilizer, and hope for the best. What's the lowest safe operating oil pressure for these engines? Thank you for the video and any help you can offer.
I have an 01 with same problem. After following all the supposed reasons for low oil pressure with no results I put in different engine. When disassembling old engine I removed rear cover and #5 cam bearing fell out on floor. This was the source of my oil leak I then found out that many Ls engines have this problem with loose cam bearings. Hope you have better luck than I did. If you haven’t fixed it yet keep this in mind.
update?
Did you check the oil pump pick up O-ring and screen?
Absolutely, because the original O rings are so problematic, it automatically gets replaced- and that's true on every engine that uses an O ring at the pickup tube
hey i hav this same problem but only thing is one of my lifters actually shattered inside the block rebuilt it but didn’t change the bearings and have the low oil pressure problem sure that’ll fix it??
Don't do anything based on my recommendation unless you have a competent trustworthy mechanic
I was looking at Summit Racings website to find suggested bearings CC433W and CC433W-1 but can't find them. Have they changed name or replaced with another part number? Great if you can add links to their website. Thanks for a great video!
If you put CC433W-1 into a Google search, you will find them at Carid.com, RockAuto and on Ebay
@@mark_osborne OK. Thank you for fast answer. I hoped to buy all parts from one company to minimize the freight cost (to Sweden). Do you have a part list for everything to order then rebuild a L99-engine and remove AFM but keep VVT?
@@mark_osborne What part name/number do you use for crank bearings? Also if you have any suggestions for a cam shaft (daily drive L99 without AFM with VVT) and pistons?
@@johnnyaberg9617 I am sorry I just do not have the time to go through all this. For one thing you'll need to tear your engine down to even know if you can run standard bearings or if you need to have the crank serviced, so ordering parts is normally done once you know what you need but sure you could get your head gaskets, etc ahead of time.
Hi Mark, I'm in Livonia. Do you do work on the L9H 6.2?
email me gearhead4you@yahoo.com
I have a 2001 6.0. 210k miles it was leaking oil bad and low oil pressure. We pulled the motor and replaced every gasket and o ring. Installed new oil pump and o ring for pickup tube. Threw engine back in and fired it up. Still low oil pressure wont get above 20 psi. What am I missing? Only thing we can think of is a new pickup tube or crankshaft bearings.
Unfortunately you have a bleed somewhere, and it's most likely a combination of wear throughout, meaning, mains and cam bearings. Did you see any metal or aluminum mixed into the sludge on the very bottom of the pan ?
Jonathan Adams when you say your oil pressure won’t get past 20psi is that with engine at operating temp and at idle? I have a 5.3, will idle at 19psi but will bump to 40psi on highway. Just curious because I’m about to do finish doing what you did and don’t want to be disappointed.
I just finished changing my oil pickup tube O-ring today. Fresh oil, Lucas oil stabilizer. And have previously replaced the oil pressure sending unit. Cranked it up and it went straight up to 50psi. Drove it around the block and it was at 30-40. In gear at an idle it drop to 20. Man wth else can I do. Thoughts??
@@russellschroeder990 20 psi at a "hot" idle is perfectly OK, normal (meaning, you took it out for a long ride to get the oil up to temp). How did the bottom of the pan look ? any sparkly metal ? sludge?
Mark Osborne no metal at all in the pan. I was surprised at how clean it was. Cylinder walls still had the cross hatch marks in them. 160k. Yes I got the oil hot. So I guess it’s ok
Does it help to change the oil pump for low oil pressure in a 1999 chevy Silverado 6.0
Well, if you have the engine apart anyway, I'd certainly stick in the latest and greatest Melling pump :-)
Really wish I could get one-under bearings for my courier 2.3... :(
I've never tried, I'm sorry to hear that
I have a 07 Denali 6.2 l92 150k oil pressure started acting abnormal meaning it would operate on highway at 38 psi normally but drove it today and wouldn’t go past 20-25 psi driving going 70-80 miles a hour hot tried to give it some higher rpms once on the highway 3-4K rpms but no luck would hardly move up a bit also had a kinda noticeable rough idle getting of the highway pressure dropped to 5 psi maybe lower that I’ve ever seen it before Drove normal but pressure wouldn’t go no where past 20 psi on the highway in the streets maybe 10-15 psi max any suggestions.?
Unfortunately the first thing anyone must do in a case like yours is remove the oil pressure sending unit and pull the little screen out that's below the sending unit. Install a new sending unit and try again. If your oil pressure results are the same, the oil pan must come off and you must inspect for sludge and check the o-ring at the pick up screen. Also, look for metal in the pan. Then go from there. No metal, clean pan? How did the pickup screen feel when you unbolted it ? was it loose in the oil pump? meaning, has the O-Ring shrunk ? because that's what happens sometimes. The O-Ring shrinks and no longer seals the pickup screen to the inlet of the oil pump.
Hey mark I have a 2006 chevy truck 4.8L that has low oil pressure after it warms up and the lights go off because of it and message on dash.It has new pressure sensor and no screen under it,Oil pump and o-ring on pick-up tube and still doing it.What do think? Bearings.
If the oil looks good when you drain off a sample (no metal), and she sounds good when you rev it up to 3000, and you have decent 25-30 PSI oil pressure going down the road, drive it, enjoy it.
@@mark_osborne That's all good oil and filter and no metal in it.will do it at a stop and at idle.
@@ryans8309 It's likely general wear in the mains and cam bearings. GM says 7 lbs per 1000 rpms is enough for the engine to live. Even tho the light comes on at an idle, as long as you meet the criteria otherwise (14 lbs @ 2000 rpms, 21 lb @ 3000 rpm)... drive it, enjoy it and try not worry :-)
So my oil pressure drops about every 1,000 miles from 40 to 20. I use Penzoil synthetic. If I change the oil filter my pressure goes back to 40l. This makes no sense to me. do you have any ideas?
No idea. Have you tried different brand oil filters ? Have you cut an old filter apart to see if there is anything in it ? The thing is, if the filter becomes a restriction, the bypass allows the oil to take a different path into the engine, so this is a real head scratcher