I think this method makes sense because when we use iron remover on wheels, we don't clean the wheels and then apply iron remover. We use iron remover directly on the dirty wheels. So for the paint, this concept still applies. I think using iron remover prior to the car wash will also reduce swirl because it will loosen the dirt before you use your mitt to wash the car.
I came to the conclusion of putting this on before washing myself, but it's nice to see someone who is a professional confirm this. It just makes sense to me.
Great video Scott! I'm always looking to stretch my dollar and the most expensive chemical besides a coating that goes on the paint is a ferrous iron particle remover like Carpro IronX or Optimum FerreX which are both $100 a gallon and even more expensive per ounce if bought in the pint or liter size. Just my 2 cents for when performing a complete decon on a 3+ year old car, if I can remove it before applying IronX thereby allowing me to use less IronX I'm going to do it first. That means: 1) Wash first, brake dust has definitely accumulated on the paint's surface but has not necessarily bonded and can be removed with ONR or soap. 2) Remove water spots, it's just my suspicion, but I don't think IronX will soak through mineral deposits to break down underlying iron particles and fallout 3)Clay, it can remove or at least shear off iron particles and fallout I lastly apply IronX or FerreX to remove what washing, demineralizing, and claying couldn't remove. Since there is likely very little fallout/ferrous metals left behind I use a foaming sprayer to stretch the IronX out further. I don't even cover the entire surface but rather spread it with a short nap microfiber applicator. This way I only use a couple ounces for an entire car meaning I'm only spending a dollar or two for that stage of the decontamination process. Maybe I'm overthinking it and going a bit overboard, but all my detail jobs if not a routine wash involve applying a coating so I'm checking every box and hitting every form of contamination and defects in order to apply to a surgically clean and defect free surface.
Christopher Benjamin I think you got it in reverse. If you clay first and you clay right, there should be no reason foe this iron x. Since claying is a tedious process the point is to make it easier by removing 50-70% first with a quick spray of Iron X.
Gotallofthem1 I use a synthetic clay towel and DA disc so claying for me only takes 15 minutes. Again, claying will not remove below surface iron particles, but IronX will. But why waste it on all the contaminants you could have removed with clay first.
Really solid advice on using a professional grade product correctly. Lots of us amateurs make more work for ourselves than necessary, and spraying on a dry car will save time and probably do a better job.
Other advantage is time. You don't have to wash, dry, apply iron x, rinse or wash again and then dry again. With your method it's just ironx, and wash and dry. Thanks!
R26Roman yes but you’re giving the iron x the best chance to do the “chemical” decontamination before you clay and do the “manual” decontamination to pick the rest off
I would probably use the wash side of the clay mitt prior to using the clay side on a dirty car. Don't want to grind the dirt and dissolved iron particles into the surface. Even if you are doing a 2 step correction, as professionals our job is to minimize the damage we induce.
OK...so iron x doesn't dissolve the iron completely when used in your eyes?..and if I'm doing a 2 step I'm for sure going after deeper defects than washing the car once in this method...don't you agree?...but i understand your point and yes as a pro i don't want to cause more damage to the paint but if i have been called in for a 2step the damage that already exists on the panel is far worse than any light scratching i could do in the moment....but i respect your viewpoint
I don't know for certain that iron x dissolves 100% of the iron, but my concern would be the dirt and other contaminants on the surface that you would be grinding in. You make a great point about already trashed vehicles, but just not something I would be comfortable doing nor recommending. I guess to me it's just sticking with good principles even if it does take a couple extra minutes.
i totally agree:)...but i can't tell you how many times in my career that i did a 2 step and charged 800-1000 dollars only to find out the customer went to the car wash the following week and did so a few times a month for a year only to call me again for another 2 step...lol..sometimes or i should say most of the time our good principles are lost on the buying public and they could careless...so frustrating:(
I use Griot's Iron and Fallout remover. It is a gel so it sticks allot better and it is $80 a gallon. I don't think it's as strong as Iron X but it works great.
Scott, listened carefully to your video and did exactly what you recommended. However after three attempts the paint on the tailgate of my 4Runner still feels "rough" to the touch. It feel like someone spray hairspray on my car and it's only on part of the tailgate and the side where the rear window is. Any suggestions as to how to fix this? Thanks!
I did the mistake of spraying Meguiar's all wheel cleaner when the paint wasn't cool and I got water marks..I went on to use griots correcting cream and finishing sealant..They went away initially but when I exposed it to the sun they came back..Any advise?
Okay Scott love your video!! Question what if I just want to remove the ferrous iron particle with iron X and then clay it without scratching the paint. Do I just wash the iron X off or rinse it off? Detailing a 2017 Red Ford Fusion?
Scott, hello. Big fan of your channel. Quick question? Is it ok to clay the car, using iron remover, as a lube? Is that safe, and hopefully won’t scratch the paint, in the process? Thanks👍
Hi Scott. Will Iron X hurt plastic trim, like all the trim on a Mini Cooper? Just wondering if I need to tape it off or something. Appreciate your videos and tips.
💯 agree with you. I have done same process for years when I use Iron removers. Same as degreasing if I don’t use an Iron remover. I use to a long time ago Pre wash, degrease then Iron remove and same issue. I felt I lost a bunch of Product. Also it was badass you dropped the Gary Dean method. Been to his shop several times
Excellent ! Especially For Those Who, Like Me, Have to Wash The Car in Car Washws, Because I Live in an Apartment Condominium ! Save Us a Bunch of Time ! Thanks a Lot !
Scott, thanks for all the great tips. Would a iron remover damage vinyl graphics as it does plastics? Along those lines, what about on a "clear bra" on the hood and front fenders? I don't have a full wrap. Also, what can we use to protect the plastics during this process. All help appreciated. Thanks.
Some detailers cut corners to save products. Don't do your customers like that. Iron x cost $100 a gallon it can easily do 60-70 vehicles. If you charge $100 per vehicle to decontamination. That's $6,000-$7,000 why "penny pinch" on product.....
Scott, I revisited this topic because it's something that's been on my mind. When I detail a customers vehicle after I treat the wheels and tires the very first thing I do is wet all of the paint with the Eagle one. I've done it this way just like you do because I love the theory behind it but was wondering if there is a lot of traffic film on the vehicle does that act as a barrier to keep the iron remover from making enough contact with the deposits to dissolve them? (A white vehicle I that I decon washed with a lot of traffic film in the past yielded a ton of bleeding with the Eagle One so might be just fine!)
Hey Scott, first off, thanks for a ton of useful information...I just bought a new F150 and wanted to keep the paint (and glass, and everything else) in the best condition I can and your videos have shown me a lot of really good methods and tips and whatnot. Anyhoo, in your opinion, is it necessary to clay a vehicle after applying IronX, or can you simply use a waterless/rinseless wash as you mentioned here and just be done with it? And I guess the followup question is, is it also then necessary to polish the vehicle after each clay procedure? I've read varying viewpoints on this. The truck is only a month old but I was thinking probably in the new year, hitting it with IronX as I'm sure it will have endured some contamination by then, but I want to make sure I'm doing it the right way. Thanks again, appreciate all the info.
Scott! Shame on you for having such a dirty car! Tsk tsk! Haha. Sorry, I just had to pick on you. :) Mckee's Iron Remover directions state to apply the product before doing anything to the car. I usually spray down the rims first with the iron remover let the product set and rinse the wheels and tires. Then I clean the rims and tires. After the rims and tires are all clean, I spray the iron remover on the car first, set up my two bucket system to wash the vehicle. I think applying the iron remover first makes sense so that you can rinse the product off and rinse down the car to be washed. To each his own, I guess.
I’ve been doing decon before I clay for a bit now , I like it that way , then wash then wipe down , then polish then coat and top. It’s still a lot of work. It I like it. Sorry if someone said it before the sound on my tablet went out.
for new car, after applying iron remover first before washing and use clay mitten. Wouldn't it scratch the car? Should I clean iron remover first with soap first before clay while iron remover is on? Thanks!
It changes focus because you have the focus set on servo or constantly searching for the focus in the selected area. If the cámera is in a tripod, set the focus and then switch to manual.
Scott another fantastic informative video. So just asking, if I am going to do Iron X on rims, would you say I should not wash the wheels first for the chemical to work better. Since the rims are round and the chemical will slide down.
Can you use sonax full effect on clear coat paint like iron x? It says that sonax is ph balanced and clear coat safe, and when I put it on my wheels it seems to react to the brake dust the same way that iron x does. So I was wondering if sonax could be used for paint as well.
Hello everyone,today i just tested the spray product on a brand new (white car).After about 5 minutes some certain areas dried and after i rinsed immediately the small white spots remained on all the black elements and even on the windows, on the body it is probably not noticeable because it is white… very disappointed because I didn't leave it for more than 5 minutes! Can you tell me what I'm missing now? 🙈
Yup that product its so expensive,but i like you step Scott because you use iron x first before you rinse it and thanks again scott,loved this vids....
How do you manage around plastic trim? My car has black plastic trim all along the rocker panels. In fact, the plastic is the rocker panel. Does this product oxidize plastic? If so, what do you do to prevent that?
Thanks so much for another great demo, Scott! Question: Can I spray Iron X on my ceramic coated car surface and after I've applied CarPro Reload one week prior?
Hello Scott, really like your channel and the way you help people learn how to save time and money learning detailing, while challenging and not conforming to the industry "wisdom". I bought a new GTI and want to prep and decontaminate it correctly, but the color is purple-blue metallic. Should I use Iron X or the Meg's substitute anyway, even though I won't be able to detect the purple color of the product reaction? Is there another way to go?
I feel like this is a bit extra step that isn't really necessary for the average daily driver that's gets clayed three or 4 times a year (depending where you live). Spending your money on a clay bar is more worth it and yes you will use more of it but you don't have that many steps to deal with.
Dear scott if the iron-x type of chemical was....free...no cost...... would yiouu used it in regural bases along with the clay bar?? Or much more often than claybar , if we say every couple of weeks or months? And how you dicede where you will use it? Maybe in whell.maintained car in order to avoid clay bas maaring?
How about applying the fallout remover on dirty dry paint, let it dwell, and before you wipe anything, use a foam cannon and foam the car which keeps the iron remover from drying, then wipe away? Provides more lubrication wouldn’t it?
Personally I pre-rinse my vehicle with the hose before soap and wash to minimize how much dust/dirt I’m dragging across the surface. After spending a day compounding, polishing, and coating my vehicle, I want to minimize every scratch I can which for me means I’d spray it on while dusty but then hose down before foam cannon / clay.
I sprayed Iron X on my rusty car, and now it's gone. Just a joke, but I do wonder if it would end up eating a hole through the rust. As well as if it would damage any exposed non-rusty metal (the car has a steel body).
Awesome tip! Do you stay out by Love Field? Also I was thinking of a new tip during this video. You think if I were to fill up a gallon or 2 with the spotless rinse water at the self service wash and putting it into a spray bottle and spray it over your car at home after a wash that it would have the same effect like at the self service wash?
Using this method today on a Yukon XL. Had planned to do it this way but glad to see others are thinking the same as I am along with using griot’s synthetic clay as the sponge to clean
Was told that if you don't rinse or wash car first and put iron x on the dust etc.. it dilutes it's power and doesn't really maximize picking up the irons etc..
I run my car through the automatic wash before I use this. That way I can really see all of the specks that are going to come out and feel pretty good about the work. The ferrous dirt really shows up well on a polar white car and its fun to see it disappear.
Mequiars mirror bright wheel cleaner has the same ingredient as iron x, does the same exact thing. $6.75 at pep boys. Makes you wonder how many products are the same, with different labeling, don't it?
hmmm..well they say its ph neutral ...does it look like it stained the clear coat or done any damage?...if not i would wash the car plus perhaps do a light polish and you should be fine..let me know
You do this after the wash and before claying doesn't need to be done every wash. I'd say probably done every time you paint prep for polish, wax, sealing, coatings, etc.
Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing It works pretty good its the first iron removing product I've used so cant compare but I believe its half the price of Iron X
I'm the only one in my family with this problem. My daughter's car is blue, and my husband and son both have grey cars. I just bought a white car, and I thought I was somehow the only one that had this problem. It's just occurred to me that we just can't see their spots. :/
I never in my life experiences Iron particles on my cars, since I started driving back in 2001 I would have seen them not even on my white 1999 truck. I just until recently on our newest 2014 SUV did i noticed them they were orange rust spots.
Sorry Scott, This is OK, if You going to do 2 stage paint correction after this process.But if some one going to just wash and wax the car this idea is not going to help ??? Have you used TRIX ??
I think this method makes sense because when we use iron remover on wheels, we don't clean the wheels and then apply iron remover. We use iron remover directly on the dirty wheels. So for the paint, this concept still applies. I think using iron remover prior to the car wash will also reduce swirl because it will loosen the dirt before you use your mitt to wash the car.
I came to the conclusion of putting this on before washing myself, but it's nice to see someone who is a professional confirm this. It just makes sense to me.
yes. Less swirls when you wash your car and the iron deposits have been disolved and removed.
Scott I love your vids, super down to earth guy. We need more people like you in the world.
Great video Scott! I'm always looking to stretch my dollar and the most expensive chemical besides a coating that goes on the paint is a ferrous iron particle remover like Carpro IronX or Optimum FerreX which are both $100 a gallon and even more expensive per ounce if bought in the pint or liter size. Just my 2 cents for when performing a complete decon on a 3+ year old car, if I can remove it before applying IronX thereby allowing me to use less IronX I'm going to do it first. That means:
1) Wash first, brake dust has definitely accumulated on the paint's surface but has not necessarily bonded and can be removed with ONR or soap.
2) Remove water spots, it's just my suspicion, but I don't think IronX will soak through mineral deposits to break down underlying iron particles and fallout
3)Clay, it can remove or at least shear off iron particles and fallout
I lastly apply IronX or FerreX to remove what washing, demineralizing, and claying couldn't remove. Since there is likely very little fallout/ferrous metals left behind I use a foaming sprayer to stretch the IronX out further. I don't even cover the entire surface but rather spread it with a short nap microfiber applicator. This way I only use a couple ounces for an entire car meaning I'm only spending a dollar or two for that stage of the decontamination process.
Maybe I'm overthinking it and going a bit overboard, but all my detail jobs if not a routine wash involve applying a coating so I'm checking every box and hitting every form of contamination and defects in order to apply to a surgically clean and defect free surface.
Christopher Benjamin I think you got it in reverse. If you clay first and you clay right, there should be no reason foe this iron x.
Since claying is a tedious process the point is to make it easier by removing 50-70% first with a quick spray of Iron X.
Gotallofthem1 I use a synthetic clay towel and DA disc so claying for me only takes 15 minutes. Again, claying will not remove below surface iron particles, but IronX will. But why waste it on all the contaminants you could have removed with clay first.
Really solid advice on using a professional grade product correctly. Lots of us amateurs make more work for ourselves than
necessary, and spraying on a dry car will save time and probably do a better job.
Other advantage is time. You don't have to wash, dry, apply iron x, rinse or wash again and then dry again. With your method it's just ironx, and wash and dry. Thanks!
Victor Hernandez yea but he said it will only take out the iron contaminates, so you would still need to clay to full decontaminate.
R26Roman yes but you’re giving the iron x the best chance to do the “chemical” decontamination before you clay and do the “manual” decontamination to pick the rest off
Iron x, rinse, clay, wash, dry, seal.
Gregory Michael No!! Wash THEN clay!!
@@Stonks93 I'm going wash with The Last Soap as a lube with the clay mitt
I can see the industrial fallout on the camera lens when it goes out of focus
Genius! When I used Iron X for the first time it was on a moonlight beige VW NB. Wish I would have recorded it. Looked like it was bleeding.
I would probably use the wash side of the clay mitt prior to using the clay side on a dirty car. Don't want to grind the dirt and dissolved iron particles into the surface. Even if you are doing a 2 step correction, as professionals our job is to minimize the damage we induce.
OK...so iron x doesn't dissolve the iron completely when used in your eyes?..and if I'm doing a 2 step I'm for sure going after deeper defects than washing the car once in this method...don't you agree?...but i understand your point and yes as a pro i don't want to cause more damage to the paint but if i have been called in for a 2step the damage that already exists on the panel is far worse than any light scratching i could do in the moment....but i respect your viewpoint
I don't know for certain that iron x dissolves 100% of the iron, but my concern would be the dirt and other contaminants on the surface that you would be grinding in. You make a great point about already trashed vehicles, but just not something I would be comfortable doing nor recommending. I guess to me it's just sticking with good principles even if it does take a couple extra minutes.
i totally agree:)...but i can't tell you how many times in my career that i did a 2 step and charged 800-1000 dollars only to find out the customer went to the car wash the following week and did so a few times a month for a year only to call me again for another 2 step...lol..sometimes or i should say most of the time our good principles are lost on the buying public and they could careless...so frustrating:(
oh god, do I usually sound like this douchebag scott?
couldntgivafuk who is a douchebag?
I use Griot's Iron and Fallout remover. It is a gel so it sticks allot better and it is $80 a gallon. I don't think it's as strong as Iron X but it works great.
Wearing a skunk as a hat... Bahahaha!!! Another great video. Thanks again Scott for more great advice!
Scott, listened carefully to your video and did exactly what you recommended. However after three attempts the paint on the tailgate of my 4Runner still feels "rough" to the touch. It feel like someone spray hairspray on my car and it's only on part of the tailgate and the side where the rear window is. Any suggestions as to how to fix this? Thanks!
Scott, trying to remove dissolved iron stains from well water in a fiberglass
home shower. Do you think Iron X would do the job and not harm shower?
I did the mistake of spraying Meguiar's all wheel cleaner when the paint wasn't cool and I got water marks..I went on to use griots correcting cream and finishing sealant..They went away initially but when I exposed it to the sun they came back..Any advise?
Okay Scott love your video!! Question what if I just want to remove the ferrous iron particle with iron X and then clay it without scratching the paint. Do I just wash the iron X off or rinse it off? Detailing a 2017 Red Ford Fusion?
The idea of using fallout remover in conjunction with a clay mitt makes a lot of sense!
Scott, hello. Big fan of your channel. Quick question? Is it ok to clay the car, using iron remover, as a lube? Is that safe, and hopefully won’t scratch the paint, in the process? Thanks👍
Hi Scott. Will Iron X hurt plastic trim, like all the trim on a Mini Cooper? Just wondering if I need to tape it off or something. Appreciate your videos and tips.
💯 agree with you. I have done same process for years when I use Iron removers. Same as degreasing if I don’t use an Iron remover. I use to a long time ago Pre wash, degrease then Iron remove and same issue. I felt I lost a bunch of Product. Also it was badass you dropped the Gary Dean method. Been to his shop several times
Excellent !
Especially For Those Who, Like Me, Have to Wash The Car in Car Washws, Because I Live in an Apartment Condominium !
Save Us a Bunch of Time !
Thanks a Lot !
excellent video, a lot learned, congrats on 2k subs and last but not least happy 4th
Great video. I have a question would I be able to mix this with my car soap to speed up the process? Thank you
Scott, thanks for all the great tips. Would a iron remover damage vinyl graphics as it does plastics? Along those lines, what about on a "clear bra" on the hood and front fenders? I don't have a full wrap. Also, what can we use to protect the plastics during this process. All help appreciated. Thanks.
Sounds like Howard Stern talking lol
Ray Romano.
My car is looks like yellowish on white car. Can I use this iron x product.please help me out
Do you have a video on how to stop rust from spreading?
Some detailers cut corners to save products. Don't do your customers like that. Iron x cost $100 a gallon it can easily do 60-70 vehicles. If you charge $100 per vehicle to decontamination. That's $6,000-$7,000 why "penny pinch" on product.....
Scott, I revisited this topic because it's something that's been on my mind. When I detail a customers vehicle after I treat the wheels and tires the very first thing I do is wet all of the paint with the Eagle one. I've done it this way just like you do because I love the theory behind it but was wondering if there is a lot of traffic film on the vehicle does that act as a barrier to keep the iron remover from making enough contact with the deposits to dissolve them? (A white vehicle I that I decon washed with a lot of traffic film in the past yielded a ton of bleeding with the Eagle One so might be just fine!)
Hey Scott, first off, thanks for a ton of useful information...I just bought a new F150 and wanted to keep the paint (and glass, and everything else) in the best condition I can and your videos have shown me a lot of really good methods and tips and whatnot. Anyhoo, in your opinion, is it necessary to clay a vehicle after applying IronX, or can you simply use a waterless/rinseless wash as you mentioned here and just be done with it? And I guess the followup question is, is it also then necessary to polish the vehicle after each clay procedure? I've read varying viewpoints on this.
The truck is only a month old but I was thinking probably in the new year, hitting it with IronX as I'm sure it will have endured some contamination by then, but I want to make sure I'm doing it the right way.
Thanks again, appreciate all the info.
Scott! Shame on you for having such a dirty car! Tsk tsk! Haha. Sorry, I just had to pick on you. :)
Mckee's Iron Remover directions state to apply the product before doing anything to the car. I usually spray down the rims first with the iron remover let the product set and rinse the wheels and tires. Then I clean the rims and tires. After the rims and tires are all clean, I spray the iron remover on the car first, set up my two bucket system to wash the vehicle. I think applying the iron remover first makes sense so that you can rinse the product off and rinse down the car to be washed. To each his own, I guess.
Another great video Scott. Do you have any suggestions for a "cheaper" version of Iron X? I like the product but it gets expensive. Thank you.
Chris Hayes yea in Amazon they have a product called “IronFree” works the same way
Chemical guys has one too
I’ve been doing decon before I clay for a bit now , I like it that way , then wash then wipe down , then polish then coat and top. It’s still a lot of work. It I like it. Sorry if someone said it before the sound on my tablet went out.
for new car, after applying iron remover first before washing and use clay mitten. Wouldn't it scratch the car? Should I clean iron remover first with soap first before clay while iron remover is on? Thanks!
Very good presentation. Critical,technical and time consuming👍
Great video...can I suggest Bowdens 3 Way from Australia 🇦🇺 cheers
I completely agree with you and I use it the same way prior to washing my car.
Camera lens is dirty, that's the reason behind the lack of focus
DarkPlatinm27 wrong
It changes focus because you have the focus set on servo or constantly searching for the focus in the selected area. If the cámera is in a tripod, set the focus and then switch to manual.
Scott another fantastic informative video. So just asking, if I am going to do Iron X on rims, would you say I should not wash the wheels first for the chemical to work better. Since the rims are round and the chemical will slide down.
Scott, what do u think about just going straight to the foam cannon after dwell time on iron remover
Can you use sonax full effect on clear coat paint like iron x? It says that sonax is ph balanced and clear coat safe, and when I put it on my wheels it seems to react to the brake dust the same way that iron x does. So I was wondering if sonax could be used for paint as well.
Hello everyone,today i just tested the spray product on a brand new (white car).After about 5 minutes some certain areas dried and after i rinsed immediately the small white spots remained on all the black elements and even on the windows, on the body it is probably not noticeable because it is white… very disappointed because I didn't leave it for more than 5 minutes! Can you tell me what I'm missing now? 🙈
Yup that product its so expensive,but i like you step Scott because you use iron x first before you rinse it and thanks again scott,loved this vids....
Great advice. Love your videos! Thanks for sharing
How do you manage around plastic trim? My car has black plastic trim all along the rocker panels. In fact, the plastic is the rocker panel. Does this product oxidize plastic? If so, what do you do to prevent that?
Thanks so much for another great demo, Scott! Question: Can I spray Iron X on my ceramic coated car surface and after I've applied CarPro Reload one week prior?
Can iron x be applied on a ceramic coated car?
Scott does Ironx remove sealants and waxes or at a minimum lessen their effectiveness?
I know the clay bar will.
d tasca good question, im thinking the same thing!
if you use iron x its going to be used as part of a full detail. So yes, because once you're done, you'll want to use the clay bar.
Iron x is ph neutral, it is recommended to use on ceramic coated vehicles from time to time to help maintain the coating keeping it working optimally.
Hello Scott, really like your channel and the way you help people learn how to save time and money learning detailing, while challenging and not conforming to the industry "wisdom". I bought a new GTI and want to prep and decontaminate it correctly, but the color is purple-blue metallic. Should I use Iron X or the Meg's substitute anyway, even though I won't be able to detect the purple color of the product reaction? Is there another way to go?
I feel like this is a bit extra step that isn't really necessary for the average daily driver that's gets clayed three or 4 times a year (depending where you live). Spending your money on a clay bar is more worth it and yes you will use more of it but you don't have that many steps to deal with.
Dear scott if the iron-x type of chemical was....free...no cost...... would yiouu used it in regural bases along with the clay bar?? Or much more often than claybar , if we say every couple of weeks or months? And how you dicede where you will use it? Maybe in whell.maintained car in order to avoid clay bas maaring?
Great video.. FYI Exploded gun power residue is very sticky.. Also.. Why not foam over the X then power wash?
How about applying the fallout remover on dirty dry paint, let it dwell, and before you wipe anything, use a foam cannon and foam the car which keeps the iron remover from drying, then wipe away? Provides more lubrication wouldn’t it?
Personally I pre-rinse my vehicle with the hose before soap and wash to minimize how much dust/dirt I’m dragging across the surface. After spending a day compounding, polishing, and coating my vehicle, I want to minimize every scratch I can which for me means I’d spray it on while dusty but then hose down before foam cannon / clay.
I sprayed Iron X on my rusty car, and now it's gone.
Just a joke, but I do wonder if it would end up eating a hole through the rust. As well as if it would damage any exposed non-rusty metal (the car has a steel body).
Have you seen the MSDS sheet on Iron-X? I would definitely wear a respirator, gloves and goggles when using this stuff.
Can you share with us
Awesome tip! Do you stay out by Love Field? Also I was thinking of a new tip during this video. You think if I were to fill up a gallon or 2 with the spotless rinse water at the self service wash and putting it into a spray bottle and spray it over your car at home after a wash that it would have the same effect like at the self service wash?
i know love field well and have customers in the area...what are you thinking?
I wonder if you could add something like glycerine to the Iron-X to thicken it a bit and give it some dwell time...?
LOL. How many times are you gonna tell us the dust and dirt keep the product from running off?
Using this method today on a Yukon XL. Had planned to do it this way but glad to see others are thinking the same as I am along with using griot’s synthetic clay as the sponge to clean
Okay you said you could claymit the iron x can you clay bar it and do you need to use iron x if you seal it with a products such as TLC the last coat
Is this product safe for black plastic trim on the bottom of my SUV?
Does overspray stain glass with iron x?
It's also flat,spray the fender and watch it drip off.i hope that makes sense.
Was told that if you don't rinse or wash car first and put iron x on the dust etc.. it dilutes it's power and doesn't really maximize picking up the irons etc..
Thanks for sharing Scott, have a blessed 4th my friend.
thank you Kyle:)...much love to you and your family
Why don't you just spray Citrol on your dirty car to remove fallout then rinse it off before doing your normal car wash?
Citrol does not remove bonded contaminants
My truck is clean and liquid waxed how should I go about using this
If my car was recently waxed should I use a compound to get wax off area first?
Good details for best results using of an Iron Remover.
Once again thanks !! For that great video !! Keep up the great job !! For get the H8ers !!
Happy Fourth of July ! 🎊
The little gun you have - is that for your pressure washer or hosepipe? What brand is it please?
its a nozzle just for garden hose ....i can't remember the brand but i purchased it at lowes
197 dislikes for the cost of Iron X🤣🤣🤣 I love using this product on my cars, works great!!!
What's the need for expensive Iron-X if you're just going to clay afterwards?
You won't have to clay so much as iron x tackles most of the bonded contaminants
You want the stuff in your clay as tiny as possible.
claying is not enough
can someone explain the steps to me then?
iron,rinse,wash,clay(while the soap is still on?) rinse all together then dry???
Scott i have a sticky clay pad after using it on a customers car, do i trash the thing or is there anything I can do to remove the stickiness??
I run my car through the automatic wash before I use this. That way I can really see all of the specks that are going to come out and feel pretty good about the work. The ferrous dirt really shows up well on a polar white car and its fun to see it disappear.
You're going to need more than IronX after running through an autimatic carwash.
Mequiars mirror bright wheel cleaner has the same ingredient as iron x, does the same exact thing. $6.75 at pep boys. Makes you wonder how many products are the same, with different labeling, don't it?
Why do you think there's so many many hands in the care care product game? Super high mark up and people willing to pay it.
Does iron x remove waxes or hurt the. Clear coat?
I ordered this product for my black ‘19 Civic Si. Is this product safe on black cars?
yes, its safe for any color car
Can u use this as a claybar lubricant
What if my car hasn’t been washed in a few weeks? Should I still put it on the car before washing ?
I would wash first so the chemical attacks what's actually stuck to the paint
Is it ok to use on glass?
Can't wait till tomorrow!
I found some iron X that i left on my car and its been a while (over a month) am i done for? does it eat into the clear coat?
hmmm..well they say its ph neutral ...does it look like it stained the clear coat or done any damage?...if not i would wash the car plus perhaps do a light polish and you should be fine..let me know
Hi does iron x alter the finish of the paintwork ???
You make some excellent points!..thanks
could iron x fade plastic trim?
Very good sense, thank you sir 😎
Does using Iron X remove wax/synthetic sealants?
Mike S No it doesn't
The fact that there is a product in Europe for 4€ (K2 roton) changes this matter somehow?
My car is covered with metal dust and feels like sandpaper. I ordered a bottle of this hoping it will help. 🙏 Any tips are appreciated
INS14466 I just read your comment have you been helped yet
Living Life it worked. I sprayed it and used a wet sponge. Used a whole bottle and get 90% off.
Awesome 😎
Is it safe on the bumper covers
Ok but if u not using distilled water. Aren't u putting contaminants bck on the car by using regular water thats not distilled ?
You do this after the wash and before claying doesn't need to be done every wash. I'd say probably done every time you paint prep for polish, wax, sealing, coatings, etc.
Nice video scott! Have you tried the product called Iron Free ?
i don't think so...is it good?
Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing It works pretty good its the first iron removing product I've used so cant compare but I believe its half the price of Iron X
I bought IronFree for 13.00 and it smelled like a skunk when I opened the package .
But yes they work the same way I believe watching other videos
I do the same thing w/ my fallout remover before i start washing the car.
Put a quarter on the panel to get it to focus. It needs something to work with.
Looks like your camera lens has dirt or water on it, that's what's likely hurting it's ability to focus.
Thanks Dallas.
can u use in matte paint
I'm the only one in my family with this problem. My daughter's car is blue, and my husband and son both have grey cars. I just bought a white car, and I thought I was somehow the only one that had this problem. It's just occurred to me that we just can't see their spots. :/
I never in my life experiences Iron particles on my cars, since I started driving back in 2001 I would have seen them not even on my white 1999 truck. I just until recently on our newest 2014 SUV did i noticed them they were orange rust spots.
Sorry Scott, This is OK, if You going to do 2 stage paint correction after this process.But if some one going to just wash and wax the car this idea is not going to help ???
Have you used TRIX ??
why are you saying sorry?..i said you decide whats best for you..but yes before a 2 step it makes no difference
Kemsingnews Barathan So I shouldn’t do the iron remover step if I’m only going to do an all in one step, such as McKee’s 37 360 all in one? Thx