I would also add suspension. Don't get cheaper brands. Get a quality one that is up to the task. 4 things you do not skimp on for any car are Tires, Suspension, Brakes and Steering. If you want to cheap out on other things, you can as it will only hurt you. But those 4 I mentioned keep the car under control which is important so you do not hurt yourself or anyone else.
Thanks Ronny, you prompted me to spend good money on tyres next time round, even if I cry for an hour or two after, and going back to factory steelies, had balancing issues after buying cheaper ones. Travelling light is my theme, carrying less.. probably the best, simplest and cheapest way to achieve reliability.
As someone who once buy 52$ each tire to use as daily off-roading, anything above 100kmh at highway or 60kmh when wet/rain is 90% guaranteed for skidding off the road when an emergency happened.Used 20k km of it and changed to CST sahara MT2 because maxxis bighorn 764 is become hard to find. FYI the Maxxis razer is unavailable in my country and apparently CST is the parent company of maxxis.
A kinetic recovery strap (always wheel with a friend) is cheaper than a winch, method MR7xx wheels have the bead grip technology for airing down and preventing a de-bead, suspension, even some basic bilsteins will do wonders if you're stock stuff is worn out (spending more will get you more), transmission coolers are required these days with how modern transmission coolers work (preferably with a thermostat valve to allow it to warm up properly, a spare cv axle if you have an ifs (yea it's a pain to change on the trail but possible and can save some hassle), a decent tool kit with the specific size sockets for things like hubs or filter housings, snorkels with proper cyclone prefilters do wonders in dusty environments especially when you're not at the front of the pack, and finally, proper skid plates and a diff cover upgrade. You'll always find the limits of suspension at some point so having a proper set of skid plates can make up for a lot. Finally, some spare fluids like a quart of oil, atf, gear oil, coolant, and some metal based quick bond to temp repair any small leaks (not a good fix but can get you off the trail in a pinch).
@@our_roadtrip My 84 Datsun 720 (my first 4X) had like 23 grease fittings. My 94 Nissan, a total POS, had zero. My 98 Tacoma has like 8 or 9.... I think they're all gone on new ones unless you swap out U Joints. I did manage to find greaseable front outer tie rods for my 98. Oh yeah, my 2006 Wrangler had zero greaseable fittings and guess what failed within 50K miles? “Planned obsolescence”
Aaaaah can’t agree completely on the recovery points. Some vehicles have downward ( tie downs) and forward facing. Forward facing are fat as and easily capable of a ‘competent’ recovery. Welded to the same steel as you’re bolting your recovery points to. Loads are not as big as people think. Outback travel Australia did a report on actual loads in recovery, only article I have ever seen about this issue. That gave me peace of mind in the fact I have never bought recovery points. Incidentally my previous car, 2015 MU-X had “rated recovery points” at the time, with weight limits. ( I have the link to that article if anybody is interested)
Cool story, guess you don't bother with rated shackles either? And you just use some old rope you found in the shed because well it looks that fancy stuff people use and she'll be right.
I recently watched a 1980 Toyota instruction video in which it was stated that you shouldn't change gears while doing a water crossing. Otherwise water would get between the clutch plates. Is that because on old vehicles the clutch was exposed or is this still something to remember on 'modern' manual 70series with raised diff and gearbox breathers?
The most important mod that should be done is brakes. But the only compromise that should be made is weight as in higher weight. The Alcon's I use are a eye watering 8.5k after install.
This is all good advice and i respect your knowledge. I followed you into Maxxis Razrs and love them, However i regret following you into club 4x4, the cocks sent me the yearly renewal and not only did they wipe 10 Grand off the value they upped the premium to $1,200 which is WAY more than before. Left the f*ckers and went budget direct.
I’ll second that the dealers will blame anything. Mine had a fault code at 6000km I had an aftermarket rear bar. And Toyota didn’t want to look at it without me paying a diagnosis fee because they believe the LED tail lights could interfere with the ecm. I told them to get stuffed and put a scanner on. It turned out to be the boost sensor hose popped off.
Recommended the Fuel Pre-Filtet. Filled up in Williams (diesel), and the car started dying. I thought we were screwed luckily we were on our way back to Perth... spluttering all the way
Tyres, why do so few people go Mickey Thompson? I know they cost about $100 more per tyre, but they are sooo good off road. I have never had a problem or puncture with Mickey T tyres. The AT’s are so good on gravel roads.
I find simplicity is key. Good set of spotties bullbar good all terrains some decent suspension and good maintanence!!! Iv had the mentality its not broken its an excuse to upgrade, too much focus these days is about looks and the cool factor not practicality and safety
The "do not cheap out on tires/tyres" advice is not just valid for offroading. It's also the same for a small car that gets just used in town. I read the best sentence about that in a german car forum long ago: "A good set of tyres costs less than a new bumper." -> a cheap set of tyres can lead to you not be able to stop and have a crash. And even a set of tyres by the premium manufacturers costs less than the damage resulting through cheap tyres. Hitting another car? damage will be greater than what gets saved by the cheap tyres. Hitting a preson?.... Proper tyres and brakes are what keeps you and others alive and well.
Ronny you caught me off guard yesterday with your question, but I stand by my answer of having a piss. Good on ya for the safety message/advice style vids, more content creators should try a bit of it.
The farther from help you go, the more important good parts selection is. If you are going to an offroad park with your 4x4 on a trailer and there will be plenty of other people around, you can afford to go cheaper (it will suck when something breaks, but you wont be in dire straits). If you are going into some hardcore wilderness or far away from help, then you better have parts good enough to hold up or the tools and spares to not get stranded. Not overloading a vehicle is also a great way to avoid breaking parts. Ultimately, the best tip i can give is to not be stupid. Admittedly, stupid people taking overloaded/under built vehicles into the wilderness is a self correcting problem, but for legal reasons i cant advice that they do it.
Without wishing to sound like I am disputing the general idea, but why would I assume OEM is better than anything else? Selling spares at inflated prices seems to me to be part of car manufacturer business model.
Definitely a good video to say the least. My favorite part has to be with the Wheels. Here in the USA we have way to many options of wheels that are made in China that are way overpriced!! The best part is many individuals will buy them for looks and think it will be ok OffRoad........ I say stay with a good quality wheel that isn't made in China and you shouldn't have to worry as much.
Any of my vehicles get put through the Reliability, Durability & Capability principle. I don't sacrifice one for the other(s) and I research every step to utter exhaustion before going ahead.
Hey Ronny, i have tried to research but have not really found a definitive answer about rear recovery points. What should the weight rating be? Front recovery points have load ratings for recoveries but rear are only rated for towing. what is safe? is the oem cross member mounted hitch receiver safe for a recovery? if there is no factory one should i put a class 3 hitch? looking for a clearer answer. Thank you!
No such thing as a “proper” of tyre. They are all proper. You mean, reputable or not cheap and nasty. Also don’t buy a Toyota 70 series and avoid the low down alternator and don’t but a diesel then you avoid all the fuel and EGT and other diesel issues.
Really surprised electrical doesn't make it onto the list. Shithouse home brew or "mate of a mate" install of electrical gear most commonly causes breakdowns and reliability problems off road
I have always wonder how you will deal with some issues when doing offroading.. for example what would you do if you are on the middle of nowhere and your car suffer a big steering liquid lose and no spare to add more
I know 4 people with the new Ranger or Everest and three of them are in a hurry to sell them, and they are the only ones that do off-roading. Interesting hey.......
Hi Ronny, many thanks for the video. Quick question from a new Ranger Raptor owner: do you recommend the transmission cooler upgrade on the diesel version as well?
The pin is not designed for that type of load. You will bend or break it. If you bend it, you cannot get it out of the hole anymore. Really bad advice, get a rated recovery insert for the hitch.
Modify every part of your Toyota to make it capable off-road and then lie to yourself that it’s still reliable and you can get parts anywhere in Australia 🙄
@@CharlesDoidge-h6i Its already got 18k miles. Going up quick. I personally have never had a trans or engine fail in any vehicle. Take care of your shit and it takes care of you. I had the tune put on it at 5k.
Good video, I just think the AI images make it look worse. Would avoid using them in future videos, they look very cheap. Will always say tyres are the biggest thing, on road or off it. I've found cheap tyres can turn a cheap Pathfinder into a drift car on the wet!
I bought wildpeak and was a dud set of 4. 3 couldn't be balanced, 1 blow no reason on sealed road only 300kms total. They wouldn't replace them... Wouldn't recommend them... 99% sure wont but them again either
hi, i am just in australia, which and gere can i get a good, but not overpriced recovery points? i am travelling from uluru via adelaide to sydney. Thank you for advice
Tell me Ronnie, totally off topic, have you thought of doing a review of the jimny 5 Dr, as an affordable alternative to get out and have a bit of fun, I know you've featured the 3dr on your channel before but thought your opinion might be valid on the 5dr version? Enjoy the content.
I keep preaching wheel rating to every idiotic HMMWV and H1 owner out there that puts stupid under-spec'd wheels on their rigs (with the incorrect offset to boot).
@@jimmyjones2426 All well and good when driving on flat smooth road. Once you hit constant corrugations or similar conditions all that fuel is going to be shaken to hell, the fuel is going to be mixed in with water deposits and dirt. No matter how low the micron the filter is it will not save the engine in those conditions, funny how all those pre filter companies never show the system running in offroad conditions and only in idle stationary.
I’ve had a couple of issues over the years due to rough and corrugated roads, shaken up fuel hasn’t been one of them. Not saying it’s not an issue, but I’ve had a good run with my 1HDFTE running a Fuel Manager pre filter before the OEM filter 👍🏼
@jimmyjones2426 little bit different the old mechanical injection isn't as sensitive as the modern common rail injection and reliability with fuel contamination. If it's worked for your Toyota no worries but I wouldn't rely on it with a modern common rail.
WISH DO WHAT MARKET FOR 24V PART SOME BIG 4 WD IN AUSTRALIA NOT THAT MUCH IN AUSTRALIA MARKET IN AFTER MARKET PARTS THANK YOU DETAIL VIDE ARE GREAT WATCHING ALL TIME
Bloody Steele's 🤣🤣🤣🤣 invest in a set of Method wheels with bead grip technology you won't have a problem they cost a bit but worth it all the way.!!!! F..king steel rims 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣...😉🍻
Damn. How heavy is your rig? I know you off road more than I do, but I work my trucks HARD and haven't buckled a wheel yet. (At least not a truck rim lol...)
I understand you need to make a buck and these types of videos probably generate a lot of views but there’s already so many channels with tier list videos and annoying on-screen CCs. Not why I subscribed.
Felt the same as I started watching. I used to be an editor and make high-end motion graphics, and everything is so lame and poorly made this days. I mostly listen while I'm doing something else, and all those "sound effects" are a drag. And the excess of "over illustrative stock image bank b-roll" is nonsense. Even though, I must acknowledge that actual footage of fails and tests and stuff is truly valuable.
got a defender and just found out i have to do my axles and drive flanges again only did them 50.000km ago they don't brake they just flog out and you end up with this nasty clonk think i might get some HD ones from maxi drive this time around .
The axles aren't lubricated...at all. They rust and fret. Pull the flange off, replace either or both axles and flange (if worn), lubricate with EP00 grease and pop the cap on with some EP00 to ooze out. It'll never fail after that unless you abuse them, but that's better than a diff failing...Alterantive is knocking the oil seal out of the hub to allow diff oil to seep into the flanges. Messy, as it'll likely leak, but peace of mind. I prefer to use the EP00 method. Isolates the hubs instead of potentially contaminating everything in a worst-case.
I've heard a tip long ago, never skimp on anything that separates you from the ground. Tires, shoes/socks, sleeping pad, etc
Solid advice
I would also add suspension.
Don't get cheaper brands.
Get a quality one that is up to the task.
4 things you do not skimp on for any car are
Tires, Suspension, Brakes and Steering.
If you want to cheap out on other things, you can as it will only hurt you.
But those 4 I mentioned keep the car under control which is important so you do not hurt yourself or anyone else.
Thanks Ronny, you prompted me to spend good money on tyres next time round, even if I cry for an hour or two after, and going back to factory steelies, had balancing issues after buying cheaper ones.
Travelling light is my theme, carrying less.. probably the best, simplest and cheapest way to achieve reliability.
As someone who once buy 52$ each tire to use as daily off-roading, anything above 100kmh at highway or 60kmh when wet/rain is 90% guaranteed for skidding off the road when an emergency happened.Used 20k km of it and changed to CST sahara MT2 because maxxis bighorn 764 is become hard to find. FYI the Maxxis razer is unavailable in my country and apparently CST is the parent company of maxxis.
A kinetic recovery strap (always wheel with a friend) is cheaper than a winch, method MR7xx wheels have the bead grip technology for airing down and preventing a de-bead, suspension, even some basic bilsteins will do wonders if you're stock stuff is worn out (spending more will get you more), transmission coolers are required these days with how modern transmission coolers work (preferably with a thermostat valve to allow it to warm up properly, a spare cv axle if you have an ifs (yea it's a pain to change on the trail but possible and can save some hassle), a decent tool kit with the specific size sockets for things like hubs or filter housings, snorkels with proper cyclone prefilters do wonders in dusty environments especially when you're not at the front of the pack, and finally, proper skid plates and a diff cover upgrade. You'll always find the limits of suspension at some point so having a proper set of skid plates can make up for a lot. Finally, some spare fluids like a quart of oil, atf, gear oil, coolant, and some metal based quick bond to temp repair any small leaks (not a good fix but can get you off the trail in a pinch).
Actually... Change your Oils and Filters regularly! Get a grease gun!
grease gun for what? zerks are almost gone on new vehicles.
@@ADBLOCKER4TH-cam Well... At least I need to grease my rig. But I guess, you still got my point?
@@our_roadtrip My 84 Datsun 720 (my first 4X) had like 23 grease fittings. My 94 Nissan, a total POS, had zero. My 98 Tacoma has like 8 or 9.... I think they're all gone on new ones unless you swap out U Joints. I did manage to find greaseable front outer tie rods for my 98. Oh yeah, my 2006 Wrangler had zero greaseable fittings and guess what failed within 50K miles? “Planned obsolescence”
@@ADBLOCKER4TH-cam Almost? so don’t grease them or do? 😆
@@FarqueKnowsWhere
*Please translate*
The number one thing you should do is not drive a Land Rover and you will most likely be fine.
They're not off road 4x4s.
They're just extra large SUVs.
Most off roading they will do is driving on grass.
You spelt Ranger wrong, but I get your point. 😉
😂😂😂
@@electrosaurus. You should probably have SPENT some time back in School , Learning to Spell .
@@johncunningham4820 Ha! just autocorrect there tiger. How are the electrics going in your Ranger?
Surprised you didn't mention brakes. Never skimp on brakes.
Talking reliability in this video
@FarqueKnowsWhere Uh huh. Guess you haven't seen cheap brake components fail on a regular basis like I have
@@gqwarrior6694 can’t say I’ve ever seen a vehicle broken down because of cheap brake components fail. I assume you’re a brake mechanic or similar?
Mine-Tana has been a favorite over the last couple years. Such a unique area and the trails they’ve been building are fantastic.
Aaaaah can’t agree completely on the recovery points. Some vehicles have downward ( tie downs) and forward facing. Forward facing are fat as and easily capable of a ‘competent’ recovery. Welded to the same steel as you’re bolting your recovery points to. Loads are not as big as people think. Outback travel Australia did a report on actual loads in recovery, only article I have ever seen about this issue. That gave me peace of mind in the fact I have never bought recovery points. Incidentally my previous car, 2015 MU-X had “rated recovery points” at the time, with weight limits. ( I have the link to that article if anybody is interested)
Cool story, guess you don't bother with rated shackles either? And you just use some old rope you found in the shed because well it looks that fancy stuff people use and she'll be right.
One thing I take every trip, is common sense
Maybe you should read Mikes post again instead of carrying on like a raving lunatic.
@@loopeyshooter503 ok loopy
I recently watched a 1980 Toyota instruction video in which it was stated that you shouldn't change gears while doing a water crossing. Otherwise water would get between the clutch plates.
Is that because on old vehicles the clutch was exposed or is this still something to remember on 'modern' manual 70series with raised diff and gearbox breathers?
If you drive a Lada... DON'T buy genuine Parts 😁
The most important mod that should be done is brakes. But the only compromise that should be made is weight as in higher weight. The Alcon's I use are a eye watering 8.5k after install.
Love this format, we need more!!!!!!
Loving the contents of old Ronny Dahl. For a new inexperience 4x4 driver, this videos helps me lots. 😂
This is all good advice and i respect your knowledge. I followed you into Maxxis Razrs and love them, However i regret following you into club 4x4, the cocks sent me the yearly renewal and not only did they wipe 10 Grand off the value they upped the premium to $1,200 which is WAY more than before.
Left the f*ckers and went budget direct.
I’ll second that the dealers will blame anything. Mine had a fault code at 6000km I had an aftermarket rear bar. And Toyota didn’t want to look at it without me paying a diagnosis fee because they believe the LED tail lights could interfere with the ecm. I told them to get stuffed and put a scanner on. It turned out to be the boost sensor hose popped off.
Your videos are always uplifting and energizing! Thank you for your creativity and warmth.💛🐨🎰
I'm onto Kenda rt tyres, can't believe how good they are .Fill me with confidence!
God help us if kings start selling tyres😂
Roadcruza says hi 👋
Pretty sure when you have lingling and sungood tyres they're much more to worry about 😅
I prefer death master 2000 brand
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Recommended the Fuel Pre-Filtet. Filled up in Williams (diesel), and the car started dying. I thought we were screwed luckily we were on our way back to Perth... spluttering all the way
Tyres, why do so few people go Mickey Thompson? I know they cost about $100 more per tyre, but they are sooo good off road. I have never had a problem or puncture with Mickey T tyres. The AT’s are so good on gravel roads.
I find simplicity is key. Good set of spotties bullbar good all terrains some decent suspension and good maintanence!!! Iv had the mentality its not broken its an excuse to upgrade, too much focus these days is about looks and the cool factor not practicality and safety
The "do not cheap out on tires/tyres" advice is not just valid for offroading. It's also the same for a small car that gets just used in town. I read the best sentence about that in a german car forum long ago: "A good set of tyres costs less than a new bumper."
-> a cheap set of tyres can lead to you not be able to stop and have a crash. And even a set of tyres by the premium manufacturers costs less than the damage resulting through cheap tyres. Hitting another car? damage will be greater than what gets saved by the cheap tyres. Hitting a preson?....
Proper tyres and brakes are what keeps you and others alive and well.
Ronny you caught me off guard yesterday with your question, but I stand by my answer of having a piss. Good on ya for the safety message/advice style vids, more content creators should try a bit of it.
Allways great advices. Thank you for share your knowledge in that easy way.
The farther from help you go, the more important good parts selection is. If you are going to an offroad park with your 4x4 on a trailer and there will be plenty of other people around, you can afford to go cheaper (it will suck when something breaks, but you wont be in dire straits). If you are going into some hardcore wilderness or far away from help, then you better have parts good enough to hold up or the tools and spares to not get stranded. Not overloading a vehicle is also a great way to avoid breaking parts. Ultimately, the best tip i can give is to not be stupid. Admittedly, stupid people taking overloaded/under built vehicles into the wilderness is a self correcting problem, but for legal reasons i cant advice that they do it.
Without wishing to sound like I am disputing the general idea, but why would I assume OEM is better than anything else?
Selling spares at inflated prices seems to me to be part of car manufacturer business model.
I'd add regular oil and filter changes, regular brake checks and avoid dodgy electricals without fuses.
Fantastic list as usual Ronny, expensive does not necessarily mean good quality either.
Definitely a good video to say the least. My favorite part has to be with the Wheels. Here in the USA we have way to many options of wheels that are made in China that are way overpriced!! The best part is many individuals will buy them for looks and think it will be ok OffRoad........ I say stay with a good quality wheel that isn't made in China and you shouldn't have to worry as much.
Method wheels are great quality.
They’re also made in China.
@@oggyoggy1299 made in China and not great quality. No need to confuse yourself
Any of my vehicles get put through the Reliability, Durability & Capability principle. I don't sacrifice one for the other(s) and I research every step to utter exhaustion before going ahead.
I want to add safe recovery points to my off road vehicle, a Subaru Outback Wilderness. But I have no idea what to get or where to mount them.
Hey Ronny, i have tried to research but have not really found a definitive answer about rear recovery points. What should the weight rating be? Front recovery points have load ratings for recoveries but rear are only rated for towing. what is safe? is the oem cross member mounted hitch receiver safe for a recovery? if there is no factory one should i put a class 3 hitch? looking for a clearer answer. Thank you!
This list should include brakes and steering, which are more of safety than anything else
How have you modified your steering?
as usual ronnie straight to the point 👍
No such thing as a “proper” of tyre. They are all proper. You mean, reputable or not cheap and nasty.
Also don’t buy a Toyota 70 series and avoid the low down alternator and don’t but a diesel then you avoid all the fuel and EGT and other diesel issues.
Yeah, I buy second hand K02 and they are the most expensive part of my 4×4
Really surprised electrical doesn't make it onto the list. Shithouse home brew or "mate of a mate" install of electrical gear most commonly causes breakdowns and reliability problems off road
I have always wonder how you will deal with some issues when doing offroading.. for example what would you do if you are on the middle of nowhere and your car suffer a big steering liquid lose and no spare to add more
I know 4 people with the new Ranger or Everest and three of them are in a hurry to sell them, and they are the only ones that do off-roading. Interesting hey.......
Hi Ronny, many thanks for the video.
Quick question from a new Ranger Raptor owner: do you recommend the transmission cooler upgrade on the diesel version as well?
Thanks
#3 & #2 yep, don't skimp on quality
Tyres are definitely the most important.
The pin is not designed for that type of load. You will bend or break it. If you bend it, you cannot get it out of the hole anymore. Really bad advice, get a rated recovery insert for the hitch.
Come guys let’s get Ronny to review a Jeep Gladiator ……
#4 Interesting. Will definitely have to research that one.
PWR radiators are the best!
Just but a Toyota
I miss my Jimny.
The new ones are great.
I just got one.
Hello?
Somebody looking for Jimmy?
I’m right here! 😊
Modify every part of your Toyota to make it capable off-road and then lie to yourself that it’s still reliable and you can get parts anywhere in Australia 🙄
If it makes you feel better, Toyotas aren’t reliable stock anymore either 😂
@@Davidtestrake My 23 tacoma is fine.
@@270eman lmaoo 2023! 😂🎉🎉🎉
@@CharlesDoidge-h6i Its already got 18k miles. Going up quick. I personally have never had a trans or engine fail in any vehicle. Take care of your shit and it takes care of you. I had the tune put on it at 5k.
@@270eman 😂 whatever gets you off at night bro. You over payed for a new truck and bragging it's been good to you. And it's just a couple years old .
Good video, I just think the AI images make it look worse.
Would avoid using them in future videos, they look very cheap.
Will always say tyres are the biggest thing, on road or off it. I've found cheap tyres can turn a cheap Pathfinder into a drift car on the wet!
Well spottet but you forgot aftermarket turbos......just don't do it !
Breathers I’d say would be a good mod, got water in my transmission and yeah, bye bye
Yeahhh to late. I already put Overland Torque Tune on my 23 tacoma lol
#1 The Car
If it’s not a Toyota you’re asking for trouble 🙄
#5 Great advice.
I bought wildpeak and was a dud set of 4. 3 couldn't be balanced, 1 blow no reason on sealed road only 300kms total.
They wouldn't replace them...
Wouldn't recommend them...
99% sure wont but them again either
@@ausguy4385 shit that’s a hard luck story right there. Can’t help wondering if it’s more common than we realise 🤔
hi, i am just in australia, which and gere can i get a good, but not overpriced recovery points? i am travelling from uluru via adelaide to sydney. Thank you for advice
11:25 No link for the arm rest?
Does your arm rest work with a classic Defender?
The ones available in South Africa work perfectly well on my Puma.
Common theme emerges, the more mods, the less reliability.
@@TheLukaszpg 100%. Upgrade the tyres and you can go almost anywhere and back.
Another great informative video.. thanks Ronny
Don’t compromise on armrests 😂
Tell me Ronnie, totally off topic, have you thought of doing a review of the jimny 5 Dr, as an affordable alternative to get out and have a bit of fun, I know you've featured the 3dr on your channel before but thought your opinion might be valid on the 5dr version?
Enjoy the content.
Still has the same payload issues as the 3 door,
I am aftaid, I didn't get the Brands of the rims. Dynamics? P Wheels??? Can anybody help, pls. Heinz, Germany
I keep preaching wheel rating to every idiotic HMMWV and H1 owner out there that puts stupid under-spec'd wheels on their rigs (with the incorrect offset to boot).
What makes a filter better than OEM?
It’s not better, it’s different. Takes out the water, rocks and rabbits before they hit the OEM filter. Go 30 micron for the pre-filter
@@jimmyjones2426 All well and good when driving on flat smooth road. Once you hit constant corrugations or similar conditions all that fuel is going to be shaken to hell, the fuel is going to be mixed in with water deposits and dirt. No matter how low the micron the filter is it will not save the engine in those conditions, funny how all those pre filter companies never show the system running in offroad conditions and only in idle stationary.
I’ve had a couple of issues over the years due to rough and corrugated roads, shaken up fuel hasn’t been one of them. Not saying it’s not an issue, but I’ve had a good run with my 1HDFTE running a Fuel Manager pre filter before the OEM filter 👍🏼
@jimmyjones2426 little bit different the old mechanical injection isn't as sensitive as the modern common rail injection and reliability with fuel contamination. If it's worked for your Toyota no worries but I wouldn't rely on it with a modern common rail.
So in summary, trust the engineers that designed the vehicle.
Where do you get your credibility with out defamation, cant have it both ways
Land rover used to be good, not any more
80K out of my Nitto's with still plenty left.. Paid for themselves..
Congratulations, you're the first and only comment besides mine that's not a "hobot" comment. Lol. And there's only 8.
Got Nitto’s on my y62 80,000 ks as well still going strong great tyre
I had Nitto ridge grapplers and they were great. 60k on them before I sold the 4wd.
How'd they pay for themselves? Did they get a job? How'd they earn an income?
WISH DO WHAT MARKET FOR 24V PART SOME BIG 4 WD IN AUSTRALIA NOT THAT MUCH IN AUSTRALIA MARKET IN AFTER MARKET PARTS
THANK YOU DETAIL VIDE ARE GREAT WATCHING ALL TIME
Has anyone let you know your blue shore they have
Bloody Steele's 🤣🤣🤣🤣 invest in a set of Method wheels with bead grip technology you won't have a problem they cost a bit but worth it all the way.!!!! F..king steel rims 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣...😉🍻
👌
😎😎
Jeez Ronny, you're really starting to overproduce the fuck out of these! 😅
👍
Damn. How heavy is your rig? I know you off road more than I do, but I work my trucks HARD and haven't buckled a wheel yet. (At least not a truck rim lol...)
Perhaps you missed the part where he said it was a cheap wheel?
@chrisfanchier2318 that's pretty fucking "cheap" considering a regular steel wheels is $100-$120 each... for a decent one
In my days as a tyre fitter I saw heaps of cheap steelies that were buckled straight out of the box
It was shit quality.
Did you watch the video?
I understand you need to make a buck and these types of videos probably generate a lot of views but there’s already so many channels with tier list videos and annoying on-screen CCs. Not why I subscribed.
Felt the same as I started watching. I used to be an editor and make high-end motion graphics, and everything is so lame and poorly made this days. I mostly listen while I'm doing something else, and all those "sound effects" are a drag. And the excess of "over illustrative stock image bank b-roll" is nonsense. Even though, I must acknowledge that actual footage of fails and tests and stuff is truly valuable.
got a defender and just found out i have to do my axles and drive flanges again only did them 50.000km ago they don't brake they just flog out and you end up with this nasty clonk think i might get some HD ones from maxi drive this time around .
Okay
The axles aren't lubricated...at all. They rust and fret. Pull the flange off, replace either or both axles and flange (if worn), lubricate with EP00 grease and pop the cap on with some EP00 to ooze out. It'll never fail after that unless you abuse them, but that's better than a diff failing...Alterantive is knocking the oil seal out of the hub to allow diff oil to seep into the flanges. Messy, as it'll likely leak, but peace of mind. I prefer to use the EP00 method. Isolates the hubs instead of potentially contaminating everything in a worst-case.
@@andrewx86x thanks for the info i did read about knocking the oil seal out i do alot of river crossings so maybe i will leave it in