Just used these bolts this last weekend. I didn't know how haggard it was up there till you guys did all this so I've got a tremendous appreciation for how clean you guys made it. Long live the 2 bomber glue-in system! Thanks guys!
Zachary Watson....jus so you know. A lot of people do this type of service work at crags around the world, you just don’t hear about it because they don’t any recognition from TH-cam.
True. There are a lot of silent bolting angels out there fixing our crags. Bobby has done a TON of stuff before I met him and still does. I try to find, collect, and test the information we have on the subject so we don't all have to reinvent the wheel. Getting attention from youtubing helps spread the information and helps get more information. It's my way I chose to contribute to the bolting community but it is just one of many ways many people have contributed.
I am one of those very casual climbers who will use a bolt if it looks "safe" so I appreciate you coming in with knowledge and the RIGHT stuff to make it not only less crappy but also safer for people too. Also, a little pre-planning goes a long way to preserving things for everyone to use 😎.
@HowNOT2 You probably wont see this but, my grandfather was Anton Ax Nelson, who Achieved the first true ascent of The Lost Arrow in 1947 along side John Salathé. I am genuinely curious as to how much of the orignal first ascent bolts & stuff are still on the The Lost Arrow. I imagine most of, if not all of the oringal stuff would be gone by now, right? It brings both my heart and especially my mother heart joy to see people climbing with the spirit that climbing was founded on. Such as leave no trace and helping keep people safe so we can all enjoy the beauty of this world, even in the most extreme situations. Thanking for helping keep the spirit of Yosmite what it should be.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing that with us! We are not aware of any original hardware remaining on the route. There is a collector market for hardware used or made by Salathe and this many years later most of what he would have placed is probably in collections. None of the bolts we saw or even the concept of climbing bolts date back that far.
@@HowNOT2 :D Awesome, thank you for taking the time to reply! I should have said pitons instead of bolts, regardless I figured that would probably be the case with collectors. It's been a while since I've started getting back into climbing and I'm not as versed as I would like to be. I've only done some light rock wall stuff a few times and some bouldering in Yosemite but mostly just tons of trees when I was a kid. I really want to get into climbing and hiking in Yosemite, but some struggles in life have been making that extremely tough. My mom and her brother have tons of rare old photos, some amazing insights into a lot of climbing stories, journals, and even including the origin of the nick name 'Ax'. Also some really cool stories and stuff about Ansel Adams, who took some pictures of him climbing in different locations. There are some Really interesting stories about some of his other climbs around the world and his work in Tanzania. I've always wanted to do an interview of my mother about her father, which reminds me I need to find the interview my father did of Ax, If I can find it, would you be interested in something like that(we live in central california)? I don't know how much interest people have about that stuff these days :( I Really am sad that I never got to really meet my grandfather as he died when i was very young, but I still have always felt a pull toward climbing things which came naturally to me, the wild beauty of nature and Yosemite. It would have been cool to learn how to really climb from him. Again thankyou for the response, you made my day :)
@@HowNOT2 I would love to do that! I've been meaning to digitize all the scrap books and stuff my family has kept and this is the perfect excuse to do it.
@@HowNOT2. -I climbed the Spire three times. First was 1983. The last pitch was bolted with 1/4” bolts, very old, rusty and hangers missing. My understanding was these were placed by Salathe during the first ascent. The anchors on top were also 1/4”. When I climbed it in the 1990’s, the bolt route that was the last pitch had been rebolted with nice 3/8” bolts, and there were many new bolts added on top. Thanks for your fine work to improve the anchors!
Thank you so much for doing this, and taking the extra time to do it right! Not only does this improve the rock, but helps to improve the reputation of climbers being good stewards of the area.
I have no where near the experiance climbing as you guys, but climbing in the valley and other areas around the country I have seen a lot of bad bolts, rusted out hangers, and awful rap rings I've been forced to use. I'm so glad you and other qualified people do these rebolt efforts to make the sport a little safer. What scares me is when people replace or add new bolts in horrible places, bad rock, and have no idea what they were doing. I feel like their ignorance will kill people in the future when they pull or break. Hopefully these videos help those bad bolters to step up their game and not kill anyone.
I think it helps having a resource available to reference. Most bolters are emotionally engaged in the project and so having something people can look up has been important to me for the last 4 years. We plan on updating bolting bible for a 2021 version because we learn so much each year.
Climbed the Arrow with my brother Paul in about 1983. After doing the traverse we were pulling our rope back and the end blew up and over the Lost Arrow. Unfortunately at that time there was an alumimum box bolted to the top of the Arrow with a sign-in register and the rope became wedged/stuck under the box. After about an hour of pulling like draft horses we were able to get the rope back. My bro climbed it again the next year and removed the alumimum box.
Not a really climber, only dabbled a bit in high school, but as a scuba diver I really appreciate the fact that you replace dubious quality safety equipment with more appropriate one while also being as non-intrusive as possible. Also love the pint you made that the other highline points can be used as backups; its incredibly unlikely that two lines used at the same time would fail at the same time, especially with forces being opposed.
I've been a rollerblader and a longboarder for forever, and those are some awesome types of communities... Highliners though!! WOW!! You guys are awesome!
The is awesome. Fixing stuff up for other people you don't even know, and for nature! Great work. I also think it's awesome that the trust in the community is so unconditional that some other dudes will trust their life on the fact that the other climbers who installed these bolts (i.e. you guys) did a good job, used the right materials and had their well-being in mind!
This is really great content. I enjoy seeing the work that goes into this. I'm not a climber but I really enjoy seeing guys like you out there making things better and the care you put into keeping the parks looking good for generations to come. Have fun, stay safe and enjoy the parks!
1 thing to remember that you didnt mention is that when youre using epoxy for anchors be sure to get all the dust and debris out of the hole prior to inserting the epoxy the dust will definitely affect the integrity of the epoxy. I use it a lot at work inserting anchor bolts for handrails. Great video !!!
Great job of work guys and thanks a lot for making the climbing/highline world safer. We use a lot of SEM, Fusor. and 3M two part adhesives in auto body repair, and the training I got was to equalize the tubes before even screwing on the mixing nozzles. I usually squeeze onto a rag until both sides are coming out evenly, I then wipe the tubes very clean and then put the mixing nozzle on. Sometimes the trainer will even suggest to push out a line of adhesive as long as the mixing tube as well to absolutely insure proper mixing. He probably gets a commission on the number of tubes sold in his district, so I tend to think with the tubes equalized and a long mixing nozzle that it is mixed super good enough! Thanks again for all the videos and the good works.
@@dukeofnuke2446 Yeah I watched that one too..From what I understand though this guy Sean has videos too..I was interested in what kind of thinking someone has in damaging someone's work and possibly endangering others..I wanted to see and hear his words for doing this
Pretty awesome that you guys are doing this for the betterment of the community. Shout out to the people who do it on the reg and silent guardians. Thanks to you for sharing the right way to do it though and why!
Quite shocked to read about the theft of hangers. Especially because it's messing with someone's safety equipment and I guess the sort of person who would do that wouldn't care much if they leave behind weakened fasteners / anchors. Related suggestion for a bolt buster test: tamper proof nuts e.g. shear nuts (nuts where the flats shear off leaving just a cone), proprietary drive nuts e.g. Kinmar nuts, scroll wave nuts, or other tamper proof / security fasteners.
Blowing them out is crucial of course, but I've found that cleaning them out with isopropyl after blowing works really well. I take old socks, toothbrush and bottle brush, it evaporates really fast.
Really curious on how this is viewed by the climbing community. Are they like " dude took out my bolt" or like " thanks for the new tech"? Is this a common thing? Do only advanced people do this? Do new people do this?( Because they are crazy). What is the SOP?
My thoughts as well. I have this crag in my hometown that's way out in bum heck nowhere that was bolted decades ago, surely the bolts are archaic and rusted over, not to mention all the fires that have been happening out here, so i'm sure stuff has cracked and popped, but Access Fund said that I *needed* to contact the original bolters to implement a change in efforts of preserving safety. If it was me, i'd just go straight ahead.
@Keshav Saharia thanks for the insight. To me this was just some skilled youtubers with a good and helpful thing that they wanted to do. I had no clue that Ryan was so respected in the climbing community.
You could take all of the old holds and bolts and chuck them into a gallon jug with clear epoxy and mount it somewhere saying what Not to do! Great job guys
I don't climb or high line at all. Terrified of it yet ill do all kinds of other crazy things. I love the videos though. You are doing a fantastic job explaining everything to someone who has never even attempted this. All around you have a fantastic channel.
14:31 saying the rock there is pretty soft. Doesn't that make the bolt area weaker and therefore make the whole rig more dangerous. I don't know anything about highlining but enjoy learning, so correct me if I'm wrong.
WIND NOISE: Aside from better protected mics (like a plug in mic for your phone) a lot of wind noise can be filtered out during editing because it is mostly in the 0-350 hertz range, with some going to 500 Hz, only takes a multi-band equalizer in the editing software. Even in 2021 i''m surprised that it is often so difficult to hear you that i just stop watching. Aside from poor outdoor audio you do great work, and i'm not even a climber or slackliner, but i use rope, carabiners, and soft shackles off road, camping, sailing, taking down trees, and other things. Thanks for your efforts.
As a climber I have tons of respect for the job you guys are doing, the same goes for the way you go about doing it. Quality beats quantity in my book any day of the week. PS! What was the name of the putty you used to patch the old holes, and where can it be bought?? Big ups from GNorway🤜🏻🤛🏻
Great video, I admire the time and effort you guys put in to cleaning that mess up. (I was fortunate enough to be able to climb the spire in the early 80s, and there sure as hell wasn't anything like the mess you dealt with... We probably descended off the rustiest things you found up there.) I'm guessing it had to do with some transition you had after lowering off the top of the spire (~23:14 in the vid), but why lower off through the rings rather than threading the rope through to the mid-point and abseiling the two strands?
In the video hes using a grigri, so probably becuase he wanted to use an assisted brake device, which are typically single strand. Like he mentioned, the rings rotate as they are used, so you get added safety with an ABD and aren't too concerned about service life of the rings, which are replaceable anyway. That said he could have used a biner block and then done a single strand rappel, but the lowering setup rigs and de-rigs easier and faster
Very few raps are done off the spire. The last person of each team essentially. Otherwise the rope is fixed and done very differently. You never have a group top roping through the rings and they are easily replaceable. I try to use a single rope to get off the spire and that is a pretty easy way to do it. I have to move ascenders up the other side of rope as I rappel so its nice to have an auto locking rappel device for that as well.
I once spun up a dynabolt with a drill chuck, till the wedge was red hot then the wedge was soft enough to pull out then the sleeve came out easily with pliers
I'm not a climber but this is pretty cool. 👌 Always kind of wondered what the fixturing system was for climbing. I wonder how much the cost was for the hardware. Good work guys.
That smoke was so bad I had to leave California, that smoke has lead, cadmium, mercury, VOC's and other toxic metals. Unfortunately, once you inhale that crap, it's trapped in your body, heavy metals are no joke. PS, Dean used a power-drill at night for some of those bolts. The holes come out much nicer that way. He reasoned fewer holes would be needed if the holes are drilled well. As you know, the Rockpecker sucks to get started. Thanks for putting in the time and money into removing the manky crap.
Toxic metals have half-lives in your body. Your liver and kidneys are perfectly capable of removing such toxins from your body and they are not significantly dangerous if their concentrations do not exceed certain values. In welding and soldering, radioactive filler metals such as thorium are sometimes used in addition to all variety of heavy metals; it is perfectly safe to be in close contact with heavy metals and even radioactive heavy metals (often inhaling small amouts of them through smoke in the case of welding) as long as one's average dose remains below safe levels. And safe levels are usually an order of magnitude or so above average usual exposure.
Brilliant video as always dudes 🤘Best using glue in bolts for so many reasons but most of all , to stop the cretinous scum in this world stealing the hangers !
Can you please do a guide how to back up a weblock? Last week a girl died, a weblock flew right in her head, a loop (the sewn part)connecting an anchor shackle and the weblock broke, extra webbing from the weblock was connected with the shackle by some knot which was torn apart as well. You use a soft-release instead, not just a loop-connector or soft shackle. How to back up a weblock properly so that it won't hurt anybody in case of emergency. Thanks in advance
I don't think that would happen in a highline situation and soft releases or most connectors are so bomber they don't really need to be backed up for long lining. We did a break test like this coming out soon (before the accident) that shows weak backups don't do much. I need to learn more about the accident.
I'm not a climber & I only worked with riggings a little. I'm not sure if having any anchor points so close is safe, I thought they should be two feet or more apart & only ever installed so that the anchor points are being side loaded & never pulled away from its mounting points? The reason I ask is because of the training I have is different from what I see in this video. I have seen rocks cut in half by drilling 3/8" holes ever 10" to 12" in a line & then installing expanding devices to create a fracture line that'll splits the rock in half. I noticed a few anchor points in this video that seem to be kinda close together & it made me wanna ask is there a standard for anchor points in your sport?
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
Loved the middle finger audio check request comment. 🤣
Just used these bolts this last weekend. I didn't know how haggard it was up there till you guys did all this so I've got a tremendous appreciation for how clean you guys made it. Long live the 2 bomber glue-in system! Thanks guys!
Amazing wow. It's so refreshing seeing people actively making things better for other people. And caring about what they're doing. Awesome work Ryan.
Totally agree. This makes me happy to watch. Thanks to you and the boys for your thorough effort.
Zachary Watson....jus so you know. A lot of people do this type of service work at crags around the world, you just don’t hear about it because they don’t any recognition from TH-cam.
True. There are a lot of silent bolting angels out there fixing our crags. Bobby has done a TON of stuff before I met him and still does. I try to find, collect, and test the information we have on the subject so we don't all have to reinvent the wheel. Getting attention from youtubing helps spread the information and helps get more information. It's my way I chose to contribute to the bolting community but it is just one of many ways many people have contributed.
@@TiffMcGiff thanks to all those silent bolters as well!!! And thanks to you too John for the obvious information ;)
Love the tru bolt remover is this a custom build or a commercially available item
I am one of those very casual climbers who will use a bolt if it looks "safe" so I appreciate you coming in with knowledge and the RIGHT stuff to make it not only less crappy but also safer for people too. Also, a little pre-planning goes a long way to preserving things for everyone to use 😎.
@HowNOT2 You probably wont see this but, my grandfather was Anton Ax Nelson, who Achieved the first true ascent of The Lost Arrow in 1947 along side John Salathé. I am genuinely curious as to how much of the orignal first ascent bolts & stuff are still on the The Lost Arrow. I imagine most of, if not all of the oringal stuff would be gone by now, right? It brings both my heart and especially my mother heart joy to see people climbing with the spirit that climbing was founded on. Such as leave no trace and helping keep people safe so we can all enjoy the beauty of this world, even in the most extreme situations. Thanking for helping keep the spirit of Yosmite what it should be.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing that with us!
We are not aware of any original hardware remaining on the route. There is a collector market for hardware used or made by Salathe and this many years later most of what he would have placed is probably in collections.
None of the bolts we saw or even the concept of climbing bolts date back that far.
@@HowNOT2 :D Awesome, thank you for taking the time to reply! I should have said pitons instead of bolts, regardless I figured that would probably be the case with collectors. It's been a while since I've started getting back into climbing and I'm not as versed as I would like to be. I've only done some light rock wall stuff a few times and some bouldering in Yosemite but mostly just tons of trees when I was a kid. I really want to get into climbing and hiking in Yosemite, but some struggles in life have been making that extremely tough. My mom and her brother have tons of rare old photos, some amazing insights into a lot of climbing stories, journals, and even including the origin of the nick name 'Ax'. Also some really cool stories and stuff about Ansel Adams, who took some pictures of him climbing in different locations. There are some Really interesting stories about some of his other climbs around the world and his work in Tanzania. I've always wanted to do an interview of my mother about her father, which reminds me I need to find the interview my father did of Ax, If I can find it, would you be interested in something like that(we live in central california)? I don't know how much interest people have about that stuff these days :( I Really am sad that I never got to really meet my grandfather as he died when i was very young, but I still have always felt a pull toward climbing things which came naturally to me, the wild beauty of nature and Yosemite. It would have been cool to learn how to really climb from him. Again thankyou for the response, you made my day :)
Feel free to send us an email thru HowNot2.com. We at least would be interested to see photos of the early days.
@@HowNOT2 I would love to do that! I've been meaning to digitize all the scrap books and stuff my family has kept and this is the perfect excuse to do it.
@@HowNOT2. -I climbed the Spire three times. First was 1983. The last pitch was bolted with 1/4” bolts, very old, rusty and hangers missing. My understanding was these were placed by Salathe during the first ascent. The anchors on top were also 1/4”. When I climbed it in the 1990’s, the bolt route that was the last pitch had been rebolted with nice 3/8” bolts, and there were many new bolts added on top. Thanks for your fine work to improve the anchors!
Thank you so much for doing this, and taking the extra time to do it right! Not only does this improve the rock, but helps to improve the reputation of climbers being good stewards of the area.
I have no where near the experiance climbing as you guys, but climbing in the valley and other areas around the country I have seen a lot of bad bolts, rusted out hangers, and awful rap rings I've been forced to use.
I'm so glad you and other qualified people do these rebolt efforts to make the sport a little safer.
What scares me is when people replace or add new bolts in horrible places, bad rock, and have no idea what they were doing. I feel like their ignorance will kill people in the future when they pull or break. Hopefully these videos help those bad bolters to step up their game and not kill anyone.
I think it helps having a resource available to reference. Most bolters are emotionally engaged in the project and so having something people can look up has been important to me for the last 4 years. We plan on updating bolting bible for a 2021 version because we learn so much each year.
You are a great influence on the highline community as a whole and a brilliant representative, so thank you.
Thanks!
Climbed the Arrow with my brother Paul in about 1983. After doing the traverse we were pulling our rope back and the end blew up and over the Lost Arrow. Unfortunately at that time there was an alumimum box bolted to the top of the Arrow with a sign-in register and the rope became wedged/stuck under the box. After about an hour of pulling like draft horses we were able to get the rope back. My bro climbed it again the next year and removed the alumimum box.
I've never even been on the Lost Arrow Spire and I feel oddly satisfied at how nice and clean you guys made it look. Great shit, guys!
Not a really climber, only dabbled a bit in high school, but as a scuba diver I really appreciate the fact that you replace dubious quality safety equipment with more appropriate one while also being as non-intrusive as possible. Also love the pint you made that the other highline points can be used as backups; its incredibly unlikely that two lines used at the same time would fail at the same time, especially with forces being opposed.
I’ve had a two foot high slackline for ten years, I’m new to climbing. You guys are heroes. Ryan your videos are the shit.
I've been a rollerblader and a longboarder for forever, and those are some awesome types of communities... Highliners though!! WOW!! You guys are awesome!
Crazy to think we are watching future legends at work. Just like how people know who Dean is, future generations will know of Ryan.
The is awesome. Fixing stuff up for other people you don't even know, and for nature! Great work.
I also think it's awesome that the trust in the community is so unconditional that some other dudes will trust their life on the fact that the other climbers who installed these bolts (i.e. you guys) did a good job, used the right materials and had their well-being in mind!
This is really great content. I enjoy seeing the work that goes into this. I'm not a climber but I really enjoy seeing guys like you out there making things better and the care you put into keeping the parks looking good for generations to come. Have fun, stay safe and enjoy the parks!
i just have to say... - you guys are super chill.. around such an amazing view..
1 thing to remember that you didnt mention is that when youre using epoxy for anchors be sure to get all the dust and debris out of the hole prior to inserting the epoxy the dust will definitely affect the integrity of the epoxy. I use it a lot at work inserting anchor bolts for handrails. Great video !!!
Audio is super good enough! (y)
Great job of work guys and thanks a lot for making the climbing/highline world safer.
We use a lot of SEM, Fusor. and 3M two part adhesives in auto body repair, and the training I got was to equalize the tubes before even screwing on the mixing nozzles. I usually squeeze onto a rag until both sides are coming out evenly, I then wipe the tubes very clean and then put the mixing nozzle on. Sometimes the trainer will even suggest to push out a line of adhesive as long as the mixing tube as well to absolutely insure proper mixing. He probably gets a commission on the number of tubes sold in his district, so I tend to think with the tubes equalized and a long mixing nozzle that it is mixed super good enough! Thanks again for all the videos and the good works.
I love the way you’re taken care of this beautiful place
This is one of my favorite videos that you guys have done. Thanks so much, amazing work!
Dean Potters' bolts (rip)? Those might be sellable for the channel.
Part of museum of slacklife now
Thanks for your stewardship of the area.
Moving forward
🤣🤣
Hahahahahahahaha
These are the beautiful bolts that were just completely hammered down by the crazy, dangerous man. 😤
not only informative, but also motivating!
I don't even climb... Good to see clean up. That would have probably what I would have thought of if I did climb, I'm OCD.... Great job guys..
Awesome work fellas! Thank you so much for cleaning the LAS. Cheers to you guys!
Hmm... I WONDER who would dislike this video?! *cough* Shawn *cough cough*
Can you direct me to a video where Sean says why he doesnt like this? I'm new to climbing and still learning climbers etiquette
@@50StichesSteel He means the dude that is constantly chopping bolts
@@dukeofnuke2446 Yeah I get it..Somebody said there's video of this guy saying why he's doing it
@@50StichesSteel on this channel there is a video on the dude from like a week ago
@@dukeofnuke2446 Yeah I watched that one too..From what I understand though this guy Sean has videos too..I was interested in what kind of thinking someone has in damaging someone's work and possibly endangering others..I wanted to see and hear his words for doing this
I'm not a climber but even I can see that you guys are awesome. Thanks!
Pretty awesome that you guys are doing this for the betterment of the community. Shout out to the people who do it on the reg and silent guardians. Thanks to you for sharing the right way to do it though and why!
This is so wholesome. Out in the nature, repairing rocks.
Small world! Right before the pandemic I met that guy on the right from the intro of the video in a hot spring just outside of mammoth lakes.
I'm impressed by all of your respect for nature and other people.
Such reverent attitude to the nature. Nice to see it!
Thanks for being great guys.
Quite shocked to read about the theft of hangers. Especially because it's messing with someone's safety equipment and I guess the sort of person who would do that wouldn't care much if they leave behind weakened fasteners / anchors.
Related suggestion for a bolt buster test: tamper proof nuts e.g. shear nuts (nuts where the flats shear off leaving just a cone), proprietary drive nuts e.g. Kinmar nuts, scroll wave nuts, or other tamper proof / security fasteners.
Blowing them out is crucial of course, but I've found that cleaning them out with isopropyl after blowing works really well. I take old socks, toothbrush and bottle brush, it evaporates really fast.
The result looks so satisfying, great work!
Really curious on how this is viewed by the climbing community. Are they like " dude took out my bolt" or like " thanks for the new tech"? Is this a common thing? Do only advanced people do this? Do new people do this?( Because they are crazy). What is the SOP?
My thoughts as well. I have this crag in my hometown that's way out in bum heck nowhere that was bolted decades ago, surely the bolts are archaic and rusted over, not to mention all the fires that have been happening out here, so i'm sure stuff has cracked and popped, but Access Fund said that I *needed* to contact the original bolters to implement a change in efforts of preserving safety. If it was me, i'd just go straight ahead.
@Keshav Saharia thanks for the insight. To me this was just some skilled youtubers with a good and helpful thing that they wanted to do. I had no clue that Ryan was so respected in the climbing community.
th-cam.com/video/pENy_VNePy8/w-d-xo.html 3:13 thats what happens if new people just start drilling...
Great job team, cant waiut to go try out the new set up
You could take all of the old holds and bolts and chuck them into a gallon jug with clear epoxy and mount it somewhere saying what Not to do! Great job guys
Looks really nice now. Awesome work guys. I guess that means I need to go back up there?
Well OK, that's where Bobby has been. Nice work guys!
Dude! You should see the crap that se have here in Brazil .... These bolts looks Bomber close to brazilian "grampos". Great job !
Bobby is one good dude and knows his shit
AMAZING video I never new how much gos into re-bolting
You guys reminded me of that amazing bolt placer,Warren Harding.
I don't climb or high line at all. Terrified of it yet ill do all kinds of other crazy things. I love the videos though. You are doing a fantastic job explaining everything to someone who has never even attempted this. All around you have a fantastic channel.
Well done guys 👏🏾
Love it! Thanks for all the hard work for the benefit of the community.
14:31 saying the rock there is pretty soft. Doesn't that make the bolt area weaker and therefore make the whole rig more dangerous. I don't know anything about highlining but enjoy learning, so correct me if I'm wrong.
That is why glue ins were used. Great option for soft rock as they engage much more of the rock than mechanical bolts.
WIND NOISE: Aside from better protected mics (like a plug in mic for your phone) a lot of wind noise can be filtered out during editing because it is mostly in the 0-350 hertz range, with some going to 500 Hz, only takes a multi-band equalizer in the editing software. Even in 2021 i''m surprised that it is often so difficult to hear you that i just stop watching. Aside from poor outdoor audio you do great work, and i'm not even a climber or slackliner, but i use rope, carabiners, and soft shackles off road, camping, sailing, taking down trees, and other things. Thanks for your efforts.
Did Ryan just give us all the finger at 3:50 ish
At 11:40 Bobby got lucky, it would be way to easy to toss that puller off the cliff when the bolt breaks loose.
Watching them sitting on the edge is making parts of me tingle in a really bad way.
The older I get the less secure I feel on the mountains. And when I watch videos like this I would doubt every bolt I didn't put in my self.
Taking responsibility, I love it.
How well has the jbweld held up for patching the holes? I imagine patching is super important so water doesnt freeze in there and freeze.
As a climber I have tons of respect for the job you guys are doing, the same goes for the way you go about doing it. Quality beats quantity in my book any day of the week.
PS! What was the name of the putty you used to patch the old holes, and where can it be bought??
Big ups from GNorway🤜🏻🤛🏻
Thanks,
JB waterweld. i think most epoxy putties will work, just match the color.
Hi, what’s the name of the apparel you’re using at 7:50? Where can we buy it?
Thanks
Awesome stuff guys!!
@3:48 gives us the finger when asking our opinion on the audio
Great video, I admire the time and effort you guys put in to cleaning that mess up. (I was fortunate enough to be able to climb the spire in the early 80s, and there sure as hell wasn't anything like the mess you dealt with... We probably descended off the rustiest things you found up there.)
I'm guessing it had to do with some transition you had after lowering off the top of the spire (~23:14 in the vid), but why lower off through the rings rather than threading the rope through to the mid-point and abseiling the two strands?
In the video hes using a grigri, so probably becuase he wanted to use an assisted brake device, which are typically single strand. Like he mentioned, the rings rotate as they are used, so you get added safety with an ABD and aren't too concerned about service life of the rings, which are replaceable anyway. That said he could have used a biner block and then done a single strand rappel, but the lowering setup rigs and de-rigs easier and faster
Very few raps are done off the spire. The last person of each team essentially. Otherwise the rope is fixed and done very differently. You never have a group top roping through the rings and they are easily replaceable. I try to use a single rope to get off the spire and that is a pretty easy way to do it. I have to move ascenders up the other side of rope as I rappel so its nice to have an auto locking rappel device for that as well.
@@danielazbell6416 Edelrid Gigajul allows you to rappel in brake-assisted mode on 2 strands without an autoblock backup.
Love your work! Comenting for the algorithm 🌻
Consider making a bow drill to spin the bolts after adding the nut on top.
Yea, that could have been helpful. Luckily the rock was shit and grinded away!
You guys are awesome
bobby you are a national treasure
That view 9:05
dang, smoking my cigar.
"🖕Let me know🖕what you think🖕about the audio.🖕"
I giggled, well played sir
Thank you guys well done.... on to the next mess?
Mic is fine, dont worry about bringing one.
Awesome! I was up there this last month with a 6 year old. Great job!
I once spun up a dynabolt with a drill chuck, till the wedge was red hot then the wedge was soft enough to pull out then the sleeve came out easily with pliers
Amazing job!
I’m not afraid of heights. But this video made me afraid of heights. But amazing views. Great video.
Audio isn't nearly as bad as it could be given where you are. For really windy stuff a lav mic might be a good thing to have on hand, though.
I'm not a climber but this is pretty cool. 👌 Always kind of wondered what the fixturing system was for climbing. I wonder how much the cost was for the hardware. Good work guys.
The fact the parks service hasn’t got you guys on payroll is crazy!
Why was Bobby using the hand drill at 26:55. ? Are hammer drills forbidden in this area ?
Greetings from Austria
No power tools without special permits in Yosemite.
That smoke was so bad I had to leave California, that smoke has lead, cadmium, mercury, VOC's and other toxic metals. Unfortunately, once you inhale that crap, it's trapped in your body, heavy metals are no joke. PS, Dean used a power-drill at night for some of those bolts. The holes come out much nicer that way. He reasoned fewer holes would be needed if the holes are drilled well. As you know, the Rockpecker sucks to get started. Thanks for putting in the time and money into removing the manky crap.
Toxic metals have half-lives in your body. Your liver and kidneys are perfectly capable of removing such toxins from your body and they are not significantly dangerous if their concentrations do not exceed certain values. In welding and soldering, radioactive filler metals such as thorium are sometimes used in addition to all variety of heavy metals; it is perfectly safe to be in close contact with heavy metals and even radioactive heavy metals (often inhaling small amouts of them through smoke in the case of welding) as long as one's average dose remains below safe levels. And safe levels are usually an order of magnitude or so above average usual exposure.
your audio is fine!
Excelente, saludos desde México!
@3:47 he gives everyone the national bird salute lol... Nice... right back at ya...
Good stuff guys
When did you record this? Was in the valley a little bit ago watching people high line the spire. Wonder if it was you guys!
last full weekend in July
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE that was you guys then! Also thanks for redoing these. It was sorely needed!
What tool are you using to pull out the studs from the rock face
excellent work!
Brilliant video as always dudes 🤘Best using glue in bolts for so many reasons but most of all , to stop the cretinous scum in this world stealing the hangers !
I always wondered who went up first to make these.
what will a lightning strike do to an bolt? can you se it? or will it maybe dislodge with out leaving any mark?
Love this channel. I'm new to the sport. Can you do some tests with a GriGri?
Can you please do a guide how to back up a weblock? Last week a girl died, a weblock flew right in her head, a loop (the sewn part)connecting an anchor shackle and the weblock broke, extra webbing from the weblock was connected with the shackle by some knot which was torn apart as well. You use a soft-release instead, not just a loop-connector or soft shackle. How to back up a weblock properly so that it won't hurt anybody in case of emergency. Thanks in advance
I don't think that would happen in a highline situation and soft releases or most connectors are so bomber they don't really need to be backed up for long lining. We did a break test like this coming out soon (before the accident) that shows weak backups don't do much. I need to learn more about the accident.
THANK YOU !!! P.S. Maybe the Yosemite Climbing Association Museum would like to show those rank bolts?!
I'm not a climber & I only worked with riggings a little. I'm not sure if having any anchor points so close is safe, I thought they should be two feet or more apart & only ever installed so that the anchor points are being side loaded & never pulled away from its mounting points? The reason I ask is because of the training I have is different from what I see in this video. I have seen rocks cut in half by drilling 3/8" holes ever 10" to 12" in a line & then installing expanding devices to create a fracture line that'll splits the rock in half. I noticed a few anchor points in this video that seem to be kinda close together & it made me wanna ask is there a standard for anchor points in your sport?
As a climber of five plus decades: I agree with your view and have always tried to keep bolts not all in a horizontal line.
Anyone catch him flipping off the peeps who complain about the audio
how can I get my hands on one of those bolt removers?
Search "Yet Another Bolt Remover" on mountain project. Will add it to bolt bible in the next edition.
Good job guys! 🤙🤙🤙
Great job dudes! ;-)