I’m pretty sure that “16S2P” reference is saying that this pack has sixteen series-connected sets of two cells in parallel. We can confirm that by using the 3.2V nominal voltage spec on the cell and the 51.2V spec for the pack. Then count the cells to see if it’s a string of 16 single cells in series (a 16S1P pack) or a string of groups of two (a 16S2P pack). Couldn’t tell if there was room for 32 cells in the bottom of that case though. If not, that 16S2P reference is a very weird one.
There has to be 32 cells. They are marked 32140 48wh 3.2V so take the 48wh * 32 cells = 1536W. The tag says the pack is 51.2V 30Ah. To get watts take 51.2 * 30 = 1536W. It would be impossible for the pack to only have 16 cells and be 30Ah.
Very nice tear down video. There are 32 32140 cells in the battery pack. The 16S2P tag on the battery indicates it's 16 cells in parallel and 2 sets in series.
That sounds right. I thought about that during editing and was tempted to do a voice over or title but it was late and I forgot and didn't feel like rendering it out.
Thanks Dave.. I have an Ancient 600 Watt Sola True off line UPS like you have, The Inverter runs 24/7. It is Big and Very heavy HAHAH. Ran off a 72vdc buss using the White & Black burgess cells in a tray on the Bottom. AND it has a very clean pure sine wave output. So much so it ran all the TV & Ham gear in the Back of My truck when I was involved with the Dream Flight Wausau Middle School Space program . the 1st Year My Truck was set up like a News ENG remote Truck I had $30'ooo worth of Grass Valley gear in the Back I ran the Inverter from 6 8D deep cycle Batteries. I had to Air up the Rear Suspension. HAHAHAH.. I wonder if it still Works ?? I noticed the Grid Waveform got fatter when You switched over. Mike M.
I just unloaded my e2000 It can operate as a full ups. I actually got something for it so I'm happy, but it already gone as one of my cats went to the vet and needs 1600 in dental cleaning WTF. Bloody shake down.
I have mine on the way. Is there going to be noticeable degradation if I use this as a daily UPS for my desktop when I'm not camping? Or should I just store it?
I don't believe this supplies enough current at 12 VDC to jump start a car. That cable can CHARGE a car battery, but if you try to jump start, it will likely blow the fuse.
Thanks for the video, I purchased one of these. Is it normal for them to make a noise? Cracking sounds when I put my ear to the unit. I also plugged in a standard fridge and it sounds like a faint chirping noise or dripping water sound? Thanks
Any idea if there is any parasitic draw on this when only the 12V port is active (with nothing connected). I recently had to return an Oupes mega 2 because ithey 12V port used over 12W an hour just in standby, and that wasn't going to work when it came to powering my fridge. I curious what kind of standby power is used by the unit.
There will be for sure because the battery voltage is higher than 12 volts therefore there will be a dc-dc or buck converter to drop the voltage down. That circuitry will draw power when it is evegerized. You need a 12 volt deep cycle battery for something like that.
Any thoughts or ideas for adapting a 90 degree elbow on the 700 Watt solar charging input cable (GX16-5)? Seems like a flimsy connection that sticks straight out & not secure. This is even more of a concern if one is considering using the DC/DC (higher wattage) converter for charging while driving. Also seems like they are running a large amount of current through that GX16-5 plug?
I'm sorry if you covered it in the video. I just now came across it and don't have time to watch it right now, being that I'm at work. How hard would it be to replace the 5521 input? My dumba** hooked the wrong panel into it and fried it. It didn't pop or smoke. Just a small blue spark and now it no longer works. It didn't affect anything else. Just the 100 watt port. Do you think the whole board for that individual charge controller would have to be replaced? I'm not planning on sending it back and having to pay a couple hundreds dollars for repairs over a 100 watt port. Thanks...
Looks like no cooling for the battery pack? My 1500lfp works fine unless the batteries get hot from extreme discharge. Then takes a long time before it can be charged. According to the app, temperature rose from 22 to 52 deg celcius during a 2000+watt discharge. Pack then won't take charge until temp drops to around 46-47 cel, which can take a couple hours in a cool house (and is still pretty warm). I really like it otherwise.
@@12voltvids From your video, it appears the battery pack is contained in an isolated plastic compartment. The fans on the back appear to be focused on cooling the inverter/converter/mppt electronics for ac/dc in/out. Or maybe I missed something, is there a way for the cooling fans to also pull air over those batteries? Just seems like the batts are enclosed in a space without much circulation?
I'm currently trying to tear mine down. I have taken all of the visible screws out but mine won't lift off like yours. Are there clips or something else that holds the top on. It feels like it's a little loose but the top is definitely not wanting to lift off.
Likely a few I didn't show for liability reasons. Yes believe it or not if I showed every screw to remove and someone followed my instructions and so how managed to injure themselves or burn their place down some whacky judge in the excited states because that's where all the whacky judges are could find me liable so I don't necessarily show every screw that way I don't show how to take it completely apart.
Is it possible to parallel connect another 51.2V 3rd party battery on the external battery port? If you measure the voltage on the port its the same voltage as the battery pack.. Thanks for nice video.
Absolutely not. The external battery port has communication bus and it won't turn the relay on to a second pack. This is critical. Anything wrong and you basically have a bomb there. So many house fires are caused by people fuxing around with ebike and hoverboard batteries trying to add extra capacity. You won't catch me modifying anything with a lithium battery. The manufactures add on battery is about as expensive as the entire power station by the way. Over 1000 per battery.
My Pecron e 2000 lfp has been working fine but after charging it with solar panels recently i get no AC output. photos.app.goo.gl/Pn73naxoqTHvJAZA6 photos.app.goo.gl/z63G8F2tUkNpuug9A
Great review! Current price is $699 on Amazon and 3,000 expansion pack is now $1,099. Fyi
I’m pretty sure that “16S2P” reference is saying that this pack has sixteen series-connected sets of two cells in parallel. We can confirm that by using the 3.2V nominal voltage spec on the cell and the 51.2V spec for the pack. Then count the cells to see if it’s a string of 16 single cells in series (a 16S1P pack) or a string of groups of two (a 16S2P pack). Couldn’t tell if there was room for 32 cells in the bottom of that case though. If not, that 16S2P reference is a very weird one.
There has to be 32 cells. They are marked 32140 48wh 3.2V so take the 48wh * 32 cells = 1536W. The tag says the pack is 51.2V 30Ah. To get watts take 51.2 * 30 = 1536W. It would be impossible for the pack to only have 16 cells and be 30Ah.
@@danarawding5198 thanks for doing the math! I was too lazy to do the rest. 😉
Very nice tear down video. There are 32 32140 cells in the battery pack. The 16S2P tag on the battery indicates it's 16 cells in parallel and 2 sets in series.
That sounds right. I thought about that during editing and was tempted to do a voice over or title but it was late and I forgot and didn't feel like rendering it out.
Thanks Dave..
I have an Ancient 600 Watt Sola True off line UPS like you have, The Inverter runs 24/7.
It is Big and Very heavy HAHAH. Ran off a 72vdc buss using the White & Black burgess cells in a tray on the Bottom. AND it has a very clean pure sine wave output. So much so it ran all the TV & Ham gear in the Back of My truck when I was involved with the Dream Flight Wausau Middle School Space program .
the 1st Year My Truck was set up like a News ENG remote Truck I had $30'ooo worth of Grass Valley gear in the Back I ran the Inverter from 6 8D deep cycle Batteries. I had to Air up the Rear Suspension. HAHAHAH..
I wonder if it still Works ??
I noticed the Grid Waveform got fatter when You switched over.
Mike M.
I just unloaded my e2000
It can operate as a full ups. I actually got something for it so I'm happy, but it already gone as one of my cats went to the vet and needs 1600 in dental cleaning WTF. Bloody shake down.
@@12voltvids Sorry about Your Fur ball.
I Myself have not opened to any pets Yet after Retiring..
I have mine on the way. Is there going to be noticeable degradation if I use this as a daily UPS for my desktop when I'm not camping? Or should I just store it?
I don't believe this supplies enough current at 12 VDC to jump start a car. That cable can CHARGE a car battery, but if you try to jump start, it will likely blow the fuse.
It is like all the other booster batteries. You connect it, wait a few minutes and crank. I have used it to jump start s car and it worked fine.
Thanks for the video, I purchased one of these. Is it normal for them to make a noise? Cracking sounds when I put my ear to the unit. I also plugged in a standard fridge and it sounds like a faint chirping noise or dripping water sound? Thanks
Any idea if there is any parasitic draw on this when only the 12V port is active (with nothing connected).
I recently had to return an Oupes mega 2 because ithey 12V port used over 12W an hour just in standby, and that wasn't going to work when it came to powering my fridge.
I curious what kind of standby power is used by the unit.
There will be for sure because the battery voltage is higher than 12 volts therefore there will be a dc-dc or buck converter to drop the voltage down. That circuitry will draw power when it is evegerized. You need a 12 volt deep cycle battery for something like that.
Any thoughts or ideas for adapting a 90 degree elbow on the 700 Watt solar charging input cable (GX16-5)? Seems like a flimsy connection that sticks straight out & not secure. This is even more of a concern if one is considering using the DC/DC (higher wattage) converter for charging while driving. Also seems like they are running a large amount of current through that GX16-5 plug?
I'm sorry if you covered it in the video. I just now came across it and don't have time to watch it right now, being that I'm at work.
How hard would it be to replace the 5521 input? My dumba** hooked the wrong panel into it and fried it. It didn't pop or smoke. Just a small blue spark and now it no longer works.
It didn't affect anything else. Just the 100 watt port. Do you think the whole board for that individual charge controller would have to be replaced? I'm not planning on sending it back and having to pay a couple hundreds dollars for repairs over a 100 watt port. Thanks...
Don't know. Perhaps a fuse in there.
Thanks for tear down! Do you have any idea regarding the type of balancer(active/passive) which is used in BMS?
Nope.
Looks like no cooling for the battery pack? My 1500lfp works fine unless the batteries get hot from extreme discharge. Then takes a long time before it can be charged. According to the app, temperature rose from 22 to 52 deg celcius during a 2000+watt discharge. Pack then won't take charge until temp drops to around 46-47 cel, which can take a couple hours in a cool house (and is still pretty warm). I really like it otherwise.
The fans draw air through the pack. But they will heat up under heavy load
@@12voltvids From your video, it appears the battery pack is contained in an isolated plastic compartment. The fans on the back appear to be focused on cooling the inverter/converter/mppt electronics for ac/dc in/out. Or maybe I missed something, is there a way for the cooling fans to also pull air over those batteries? Just seems like the batts are enclosed in a space without much circulation?
I'm currently trying to tear mine down. I have taken all of the visible screws out but mine won't lift off like yours. Are there clips or something else that holds the top on. It feels like it's a little loose but the top is definitely not wanting to lift off.
Likely a few I didn't show for liability reasons. Yes believe it or not if I showed every screw to remove and someone followed my instructions and so how managed to injure themselves or burn their place down some whacky judge in the excited states because that's where all the whacky judges are could find me liable so I don't necessarily show every screw that way I don't show how to take it completely apart.
@12voltvids I understand. There were 2 in the bottom that had to be removed.
Do you think the distortion in the sine wave could cause audible noise when power station is powered on?
No. The power is rectified, filtered and regulated in ant device you will plug into it.
Is it possible to parallel connect another 51.2V 3rd party battery on the external battery port? If you measure the voltage on the port its the same voltage as the battery pack.. Thanks for nice video.
Absolutely not. The external battery port has communication bus and it won't turn the relay on to a second pack. This is critical. Anything wrong and you basically have a bomb there. So many house fires are caused by people fuxing around with ebike and hoverboard batteries trying to add extra capacity. You won't catch me modifying anything with a lithium battery. The manufactures add on battery is about as expensive as the entire power station by the way. Over 1000 per battery.
@@12voltvidsThanks!
What kind of connector is it for the 30a? I just received this unit and the plug from the cables doesn't fit.
I thought so too, just need to wiggle it left-to-right while applying moderate pressure.
A bit of a Noisy sine wave
My Pecron e 2000 lfp has been working fine but after charging it with solar panels recently i get no AC output.
photos.app.goo.gl/Pn73naxoqTHvJAZA6
photos.app.goo.gl/z63G8F2tUkNpuug9A