I think the camcorder's own microphone sounds a lot better than the wireless one. It picks up the sounds of what you're doing more clearly, while the wireless one mostly just picks up your voice.
I was a C64 (and TI 99/4a) freak as a young child. No, I am not kidding. I would type books of code from magazines like I was on a mission, for one. Like extra extra if you get what I am trying to say of myself, here - being nice to myself at the same time, too. I had QLink connection, which was AOL before AOL. Talking 1985 here. GEOS operating system. I was 8 and breaking systems intentionally with purpose, already. heh heh This monitor? I am wondering what its intended matching computer is. All that said, I didn't drool over hardware wisely because I wasn't rich and wisely so. This is why I don't know the answer. ;) I fell asleep last night watching this. TIme to continue from where I last remember it. You rock, Dave! I know I tell you every so often. It's a good thing.
These 1084S-P1's and -D1's are getting super hard to find now. I have 3 of them I have fixed up, broken switches most common, latest one has a flaky RGB connection like you found there on the other input. And you're right they'll fetch a bit. Back in the day they retailed for about 499 or something. Great video I learnt a lot.
Input connections of EVERYTHING of this era suffered cracked joints. The number one reason is people with non-electronics minds using and plugging/unplugging. I even remember as a kid with the Atari 2600. The power connection on the back of the unit, of course. (1/8" t/s plug or very similar, 9v if I recall well. I think opposite polarity than most other gadgets. Could be wrong.) I "fixed" it well enough at the time as a kid and it worked for everyone, including my younger brothers, which is saying a lot haha! But it wasn't a proper fix. I hadn't tools (some of my father's but not electronics gizmos and replacement connections, solder, etc...) or that whole kind of thing in those days! :) I had a nice Walkman at the time which was like Heaven on Earth to me, quite literally. The headphone jack stopped working well. So I took it to this place called, "Stevens" which was a major store at the time, like a mini Walmart. They had an electronics repair station in the basement. I go bring it to them. I am like 8 years old here. They tell me to get lost and it's not worth it.
Great video. I love how you went back and inserted voice over for additional comments/information. Pro Move! I'm surprised more content creators don't do the same.
Back when I was using a C128 as a daily driver, this was the monitor I wanted, but I couldn't find one. I did find a Mitsubishi Diamondscan 14" at a govt. surplus warehouse for $25. It had to be mislabeled, because they were selling monochrome monitors for the same price. That monitor could do anything from 15 kHz up to SVGA. It had BNC composite input for NTSC, TTL RGBI, and analog RGB. Mine had a weak tube, but after turning the G2 up it looked ok, just took a long time to warm up.
@40:45 - you just reminded me to take the batteries out of my joystick classic arcade unit.. I was going to convert it to USB power anyways - I put new batteries in.. in the spring and they could look like that by now
Yup, they think their shit don't stick. The words I had today with this "bitch" had i been driving anything but my car i would have just let the door where the door wanted to go. Had I been driving my sons beater for example. I have let the door go where it wants to go a few times for "richmond" drivers that have never learned to drive or park. Park in my lane when I'm driving that tank and a door ding is pretty likely.
Very cool monitor, probably typically it was used with Commodore Amiga computers. I've got Commodore Amiga 500, but used it with regular tv, using Scart cable, so it produced pretty good image with the rgb signal, especially if compared to the tv modulator which was maybe more common way to connect it to regular tv. I never even had the tv modulator for the Amiga. Only other way I've connected it was via monochrome display port to video capturing device, but Amiga gives just black and white image from that port. I still have the Amiga, and usually it sits in it's box, but currently happens to be connected, ready to be used :) Have indeed played some games and looked some files and pics I did using Deluxe Paint 3 in the 90's. Sometime soon it's time to put it back in it's box, as I don't really have good space to keep it available for use at all times.
I am at the part where you are messing with the switch. I have two current thoughts. Just fix it Dave! I know you are good at fixing things that should or could not be, for one. The other thought is just build a power cable for it with an in-line switch. You know, the sleek ones that clamp on after you cut one wire. I don't need to explain more - you already know. :)
I had one of the 1084S(wasn’t Phillips, was the more squared model with door flap that always breaks) and I had it hooked up to a EGA card coming from a PC xt compatible, and also had a vcr hooked up to the phono jacks so I could work on the computer and listen to sports tv at the same time, and switch to the game with a push of the cvbs switch if I remember. College fun….
made by philips ,always has cold solder joints everywhere,there are about 7 variants of the 1084,this one is philips,great when working im forever fixing these based ona cm8833 mk2
@@12voltvids oh yeah definitely,anyway,hi from the uk,these were made between 1990 and 92(the one you have in the video),i got curious once and started looking at the date codes on the ic's while doing repairs,they are nice when they are working
@@12voltvids Yeah... I had a Magnavox composite monitor (Philips OEM) that would blink out until you whacked the side. Cold solder joints on the flyback, easy fix.
That's a big can of Nutrol. I can only find what seem to be much smaller ones now. Another example of shrinkflation? I really like the alphanumeric board zone cues along the PCB edges seen at 26:52 which I assume may be referenced in the service manual and that's a VERY nicely done double sided PCB, too. Who designed and manufactured this monitor? There's a thread on Reddit about Kirkland batteries leaking. Not long ago even Duracell had bad problems with leaking. "Made in China" issues?
Eh, worked on lots of Teslas now. The early cars are a pain in the ass. Lots of major design issues - they’re like an early ‘80s VCR. Jammed full of features, but not all that well thought out from a system design point of view and loaded full of bad design. Adhesives being used where things really needed to be screwed in, that sort of thing. The later cars - the Model 3 / Y are cake. Extremely simple mechanically, not much goes wrong with them. They released all of the service manuals for free and built in a service mode into the car’s screen. They’re absolutely a late Funai VCR if you could compare.
Interesting video showing something a little different.Feedback: Your sound in the second part of the video sounded worse than in the first part with a lot more bottom end. Keep up the great work... gotta keep those comment trolls supplied with fodder. I bet you annoyed someone when you said you deliberately under-scan on some TV's not to mention when you used the Electrician's snips :-)
I understand on my tvs because I liked seeing the errors that others missed in the overscan area like shooting off the set, catching lights etc and of course the little blinking square in the top right corner to alert down steam stations of an upcoming commercial break. It would blink at t-60 for 30 seconds go out, then come back on at t-5 seconds before the fade to black. That was for the tape operators cue up the tape with 5 second preroll
@@12voltvids we had the blinking square here in the UK back in the day. I've just watched an old drama (produced in 1992) and it used it to flag the advert breaks. I don't think they use it nowadays as it's all automated playout and switching which is controlled from a few locations around the country. Keep up the great work
11:48 - Ironically, as I found out, the stereo difference portion of an FM broadcast is also AM (left and right channels are using the USB & LSB of the suppressed difference carrier separately, along with a pilot between the stereo difference and the mono portions), which explains to me why the reception became suddenly noisier once stereo mode kicked in, on cheaper receivers. Long ago I assumed the stereo difference is encoded in a similar way to how color is encoded in analog TV (QAM), I guess it could've been done that way, but nope, they didn't do that! Likewise, I guess SECAM could've used the 2 sidebands for simultaneous transmission of the 2 color components, but they didn't do that. That's just my 1 (or half or quarter etc.) cent to it. Not even 2. 22:30 - I assume the nozzle of the solder sucker is made of something heat resistant. It would be awkward if it melted away from the heat. 22:50 - Some people have two completely different concepts of boundaries when it comes to "me" and "someone else". They ALL should be put into their right place on said boundaries being the same thing on the very same spot / line, that shall be respected bilaterally and at an equal degree. 40:34 - YUCK!
Fm stereo uses a suppressed carrier double sideband signal at 38khz added to the mono audio. A 19khz pilot tone is also added to the baseband audio. The baseband audio is mono and the stereo signal is just the l-r difference signal. The 19khz pilot tone is doubled in frequency and reinserted to turn that dsb signal back into am so it can be demodulated. The resulting signal is l-r. It is inverted and to become 2 signals. L-r and -l-r. These 2 signals are mixed with the l+r mono signal. (L+r) + (l-r) = l channel. (L+r) + (-l-r) = r channel. Three are other fm modulated carriers that can be added at 57, 67, and 93khz. These are known as sca channels which carry additional data or audio (muzak or foreign radio) or data such as rdx data or traffic signals for some GPS receivers. Most of the sca stuff is done now. That spectrum is used for the HD radio data streams.
Switches on all these Philips made monitors rebranded for Commodore are prone to failure. They eventually all go bad. Better have a toothpick ready to get the switch stuck into the "on" position!
Proof as if it was needed that CRT monitors are still superiour to todays LCD ones. I still have a Ilyama Vision master pro 400 17 " and for text it is far easier on my eyes than an expensive Dell LCD one. Newer technology is not always a step forward.
Love when you do the CRT stuff. I do need some work some on some small CRTs, and I do live near you. Could you maybe message me your business name so I can look it up and make an appointment sometime? (Or however you would want to approach that)
@@12voltvids Got me looking, the Philips CM8833-2 has a chassis board marked 3184.5, your 1084S is marked 3184.3 so looks like they are variants of the same design.
I'm not a Tesla fan, either. Wouldn't be surprised if they used cheap capacitors in their electronics---(Absolute Garbage or Junk Very Cheap style). And it's probably a Tesla owner that would complain "how come so much" on a repair of their monitor (and they are probably a lawyer or in real estate). I've had trouble with the Kirkland batteries leaking long before the expiration, also. These are Duracell, and the Duracell branded batteries also are leakers. Having fun with the games? We never grow up, do we.
Nope not interested. Liability. Those guys doing it are playing with fire. If something ever happens, someone getting a shock, unit catches fire ect, they could lose everything. Back when I was in the business everyone wanted headphone plugs on TV. Everyone installed them, and did it correct with an audio isolation transformer to isolate the jack from the hot chassis. Nice and safe. Competition across the street used to install headphone jacks cheaper than we did so he was quite busy doing this. When we did it, it was generally on a new set that someone bought for their bedroom. I don't know all the details except the owner of the shop one day came in the back and said no more modifying anything under any circumstance. The guy across the street was sued and lost in court. Lost his house paying the settlement. Anything you modify you can't sell or transfer to someone else. If you do you could be sued if something goes sideways. I would never put everything I have worked for at risk to make 100 bucks. I also wouldn't do a video showing specifics on how to mod things for this same reason. Its bad enough I show repairing equipment because if someone got a shock and decides to sue because they followed my lead, I'm at the mercy of a judge or worse a bunch of people why for the most part are not happy to be there. Nope, no mods for me.
Don't know about that. My old plasma sets still running. Most new sets are very good. Its led backlights most of the trouble is with sets that were run on max level for their 5 years. Guaranteed that if this set was run it wouldn't look at good. In fact the crt would have checked out 30 years ago. Crt are typically good for 20-30k hours.
@@12voltvidsIn a nearby Media Markt there are two Panasonic plasma monitors that are about 17...20 years old, running 12 hours a day, and they still have a great picture.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I think the camcorder's own microphone sounds a lot better than the wireless one. It picks up the sounds of what you're doing more clearly, while the wireless one mostly just picks up your voice.
I was a C64 (and TI 99/4a) freak as a young child. No, I am not kidding. I would type books of code from magazines like I was on a mission, for one. Like extra extra if you get what I am trying to say of myself, here - being nice to myself at the same time, too. I had QLink connection, which was AOL before AOL. Talking 1985 here. GEOS operating system. I was 8 and breaking systems intentionally with purpose, already. heh heh This monitor? I am wondering what its intended matching computer is. All that said, I didn't drool over hardware wisely because I wasn't rich and wisely so. This is why I don't know the answer. ;) I fell asleep last night watching this. TIme to continue from where I last remember it. You rock, Dave! I know I tell you every so often. It's a good thing.
These 1084S-P1's and -D1's are getting super hard to find now. I have 3 of them I have fixed up, broken switches most common, latest one has a flaky RGB connection like you found there on the other input. And you're right they'll fetch a bit. Back in the day they retailed for about 499 or something. Great video I learnt a lot.
Input connections of EVERYTHING of this era suffered cracked joints. The number one reason is people with non-electronics minds using and plugging/unplugging. I even remember as a kid with the Atari 2600. The power connection on the back of the unit, of course. (1/8" t/s plug or very similar, 9v if I recall well. I think opposite polarity than most other gadgets. Could be wrong.) I "fixed" it well enough at the time as a kid and it worked for everyone, including my younger brothers, which is saying a lot haha! But it wasn't a proper fix. I hadn't tools (some of my father's but not electronics gizmos and replacement connections, solder, etc...) or that whole kind of thing in those days! :) I had a nice Walkman at the time which was like Heaven on Earth to me, quite literally. The headphone jack stopped working well. So I took it to this place called, "Stevens" which was a major store at the time, like a mini Walmart. They had an electronics repair station in the basement. I go bring it to them. I am like 8 years old here. They tell me to get lost and it's not worth it.
Great work love the stories keep up the video's
I think it is AWESOME how I just learned the cause of dot crawl in greater detail than I knew. Thanks, dude!
That is an awesome monitor
I come for the stories, Dave, and stay for the repairs.
Great video. I love how you went back and inserted voice over for additional comments/information. Pro Move! I'm surprised more content creators don't do the same.
Back when I was using a C128 as a daily driver, this was the monitor I wanted, but I couldn't find one. I did find a Mitsubishi Diamondscan 14" at a govt. surplus warehouse for $25. It had to be mislabeled, because they were selling monochrome monitors for the same price. That monitor could do anything from 15 kHz up to SVGA. It had BNC composite input for NTSC, TTL RGBI, and analog RGB. Mine had a weak tube, but after turning the G2 up it looked ok, just took a long time to warm up.
Thats the problem with tubes. They wear out.
Great to see a Commodore monitor saved on your channel =D
The current mic in this video upto 33:32 was alot clearer.
That was the camera mic
@40:45 - you just reminded me to take the batteries out of my joystick classic arcade unit.. I was going to convert it to USB power anyways - I put new batteries in.. in the spring and they could look like that by now
Mine is the “D” variant made by Daewoo. The power switch just recently gave out. Mine still has its front cover, unlike so many others.
100% agree about Tesla, and well……if you think BMW drivers have bad attitudes, they have nothing on some Tesla fanboys.
Yup, they think their shit don't stick. The words I had today with this "bitch" had i been driving anything but my car i would have just let the door where the door wanted to go. Had I been driving my sons beater for example. I have let the door go where it wants to go a few times for "richmond" drivers that have never learned to drive or park. Park in my lane when I'm driving that tank and a door ding is pretty likely.
I'd be happy if they made a hybrid Honda Accord.....
Love my 1702 Commodore. Need to find another retro monitor
I have 2 of them. This one high rez version, higher rez CRT
@@12voltvids i have a few of the 1702's and one 1084 i keep them running great monitors
I had one of these for my Amiga 500. It worked a treat!
Its a good one.
Very cool monitor, probably typically it was used with Commodore Amiga computers. I've got Commodore Amiga 500, but used it with regular tv, using Scart cable, so it produced pretty good image with the rgb signal, especially if compared to the tv modulator which was maybe more common way to connect it to regular tv.
I never even had the tv modulator for the Amiga. Only other way I've connected it was via monochrome display port to video capturing device, but Amiga gives just black and white image from that port.
I still have the Amiga, and usually it sits in it's box, but currently happens to be connected, ready to be used :) Have indeed played some games and looked some files and pics I did using Deluxe Paint 3 in the 90's. Sometime soon it's time to put it back in it's box, as I don't really have good space to keep it available for use at all times.
Great to see save another monitor. Good to see having some fun playing those games. Every Tesla comes with a packet of CoolAid in the glovebox...
Had this for my Amiga, very good monitor back in the days.
I am at the part where you are messing with the switch. I have two current thoughts. Just fix it Dave! I know you are good at fixing things that should or could not be, for one. The other thought is just build a power cable for it with an in-line switch. You know, the sleek ones that clamp on after you cut one wire. I don't need to explain more - you already know. :)
I had one of the 1084S(wasn’t Phillips, was the more squared model with door flap that always breaks) and I had it hooked up to a EGA card coming from a PC xt compatible, and also had a vcr hooked up to the phono jacks so I could work on the computer and listen to sports tv at the same time, and switch to the game with a push of the cvbs switch if I remember. College fun….
Thats a nice tube given how clear you can see that NTSC dot crawl. Probably low hours.
I would say less than 100 hours. It's had about 1 hour since I got it in 92
made by philips ,always has cold solder joints everywhere,there are about 7 variants of the 1084,this one is philips,great when working im forever fixing these based ona cm8833 mk2
Philips and cold solder. Who would have thought.
@@12voltvids oh yeah definitely,anyway,hi from the uk,these were made between 1990 and 92(the one you have in the video),i got curious once and started looking at the date codes on the ic's while doing repairs,they are nice when they are working
@@12voltvids Yeah... I had a Magnavox composite monitor (Philips OEM) that would blink out until you whacked the side. Cold solder joints on the flyback, easy fix.
I had one on an Amiga that sadly was "blowed Up" by lightning...
Thanks Dave....
That's a big can of Nutrol. I can only find what seem to be much smaller ones now. Another example of shrinkflation? I really like the alphanumeric board zone cues along the PCB edges seen at 26:52 which I assume may be referenced in the service manual and that's a VERY nicely done double sided PCB, too. Who designed and manufactured this monitor? There's a thread on Reddit about Kirkland batteries leaking. Not long ago even Duracell had bad problems with leaking. "Made in China" issues?
You will never find this Nutrol. This is the old formula made with freon tf solvent.
Eh, worked on lots of Teslas now. The early cars are a pain in the ass. Lots of major design issues - they’re like an early ‘80s VCR. Jammed full of features, but not all that well thought out from a system design point of view and loaded full of bad design. Adhesives being used where things really needed to be screwed in, that sort of thing.
The later cars - the Model 3 / Y are cake. Extremely simple mechanically, not much goes wrong with them. They released all of the service manuals for free and built in a service mode into the car’s screen. They’re absolutely a late Funai VCR if you could compare.
Could have used this video 35 years ago. Gave mine and 3000 games to EET trade school for Lab work got A+
Interesting video showing something a little different.Feedback: Your sound in the second part of the video sounded worse than in the first part with a lot more bottom end. Keep up the great work... gotta keep those comment trolls supplied with fodder. I bet you annoyed someone when you said you deliberately under-scan on some TV's not to mention when you used the Electrician's snips :-)
I understand on my tvs because I liked seeing the errors that others missed in the overscan area like shooting off the set, catching lights etc and of course the little blinking square in the top right corner to alert down steam stations of an upcoming commercial break. It would blink at t-60 for 30 seconds go out, then come back on at t-5 seconds before the fade to black. That was for the tape operators cue up the tape with 5 second preroll
@@12voltvids we had the blinking square here in the UK back in the day. I've just watched an old drama (produced in 1992) and it used it to flag the advert breaks. I don't think they use it nowadays as it's all automated playout and switching which is controlled from a few locations around the country. Keep up the great work
11:48 - Ironically, as I found out, the stereo difference portion of an FM broadcast is also AM (left and right channels are using the USB & LSB of the suppressed difference carrier separately, along with a pilot between the stereo difference and the mono portions), which explains to me why the reception became suddenly noisier once stereo mode kicked in, on cheaper receivers. Long ago I assumed the stereo difference is encoded in a similar way to how color is encoded in analog TV (QAM), I guess it could've been done that way, but nope, they didn't do that! Likewise, I guess SECAM could've used the 2 sidebands for simultaneous transmission of the 2 color components, but they didn't do that. That's just my 1 (or half or quarter etc.) cent to it. Not even 2.
22:30 - I assume the nozzle of the solder sucker is made of something heat resistant. It would be awkward if it melted away from the heat.
22:50 - Some people have two completely different concepts of boundaries when it comes to "me" and "someone else". They ALL should be put into their right place on said boundaries being the same thing on the very same spot / line, that shall be respected bilaterally and at an equal degree.
40:34 - YUCK!
Fm stereo uses a suppressed carrier double sideband signal at 38khz added to the mono audio. A 19khz pilot tone is also added to the baseband audio. The baseband audio is mono and the stereo signal is just the l-r difference signal. The 19khz pilot tone is doubled in frequency and reinserted to turn that dsb signal back into am so it can be demodulated. The resulting signal is l-r. It is inverted and to become 2 signals. L-r and -l-r.
These 2 signals are mixed with the l+r mono signal. (L+r) + (l-r) = l channel. (L+r) + (-l-r) = r channel.
Three are other fm modulated carriers that can be added at 57, 67, and 93khz. These are known as sca channels which carry additional data or audio (muzak or foreign radio) or data such as rdx data or traffic signals for some GPS receivers. Most of the sca stuff is done now. That spectrum is used for the HD radio data streams.
Thanks. Good. Information
Switches on all these Philips made monitors rebranded for Commodore are prone to failure. They eventually all go bad. Better have a toothpick ready to get the switch stuck into the "on" position!
Proof as if it was needed that CRT monitors are still superiour to todays
LCD ones.
I still have a Ilyama Vision master pro 400 17 " and for text it is far easier on my eyes
than an expensive Dell LCD one.
Newer technology is not always a step forward.
Love when you do the CRT stuff.
I do need some work some on some small CRTs, and I do live near you. Could you maybe message me your business name so I can look it up and make an appointment sometime? (Or however you would want to approach that)
I am lucky to own a Sony trinitron from a gateway 2000 pentium 90 computer from 94
Are these basically the same chassis as the Philips CM8833?
Don't ask me.
@@12voltvids Got me looking, the Philips CM8833-2 has a chassis board marked 3184.5, your 1084S is marked 3184.3 so looks like they are variants of the same design.
I'm not a Tesla fan, either. Wouldn't be surprised if they used cheap capacitors in their electronics---(Absolute Garbage or Junk Very Cheap style). And it's probably a Tesla owner that would complain "how come so much" on a repair of their monitor (and they are probably a lawyer or in real estate). I've had trouble with the Kirkland batteries leaking long before the expiration, also. These are Duracell, and the Duracell branded batteries also are leakers. Having fun with the games? We never grow up, do we.
I have a 1084-D, it still might work... wonder what it's worth...
Whatever some fool will pay for it.
kamera built in mikrofoni better (that's how you write camera and microphone in finnish language)
i use to work for them in west chester pennsylvania they where not that good
hit it!
and its not sun bleached! retro gear gets more views than your normal videos
Are you sure you wouldn't be interested in modding CRTs to accept RGB input? You can take an otherwise worthless CRT and make it sellable.
Nope not interested. Liability. Those guys doing it are playing with fire. If something ever happens, someone getting a shock, unit catches fire ect, they could lose everything. Back when I was in the business everyone wanted headphone plugs on TV. Everyone installed them, and did it correct with an audio isolation transformer to isolate the jack from the hot chassis. Nice and safe. Competition across the street used to install headphone jacks cheaper than we did so he was quite busy doing this. When we did it, it was generally on a new set that someone bought for their bedroom. I don't know all the details except the owner of the shop one day came in the back and said no more modifying anything under any circumstance. The guy across the street was sued and lost in court. Lost his house paying the settlement.
Anything you modify you can't sell or transfer to someone else. If you do you could be sued if something goes sideways. I would never put everything I have worked for at risk to make 100 bucks. I also wouldn't do a video showing specifics on how to mod things for this same reason. Its bad enough I show repairing equipment because if someone got a shock and decides to sue because they followed my lead, I'm at the mercy of a judge or worse a bunch of people why for the most part are not happy to be there. Nope, no mods for me.
common failures include flyback and mains switch
Flybacks were always problems.
We certainly don't get the quality of workmanship in that TV monitor you do the new ones to die
Don't know about that. My old plasma sets still running.
Most new sets are very good. Its led backlights most of the trouble is with sets that were run on max level for their 5 years. Guaranteed that if this set was run it wouldn't look at good. In fact the crt would have checked out 30 years ago. Crt are typically good for 20-30k hours.
@@12voltvidsIn a nearby Media Markt there are two Panasonic plasma monitors that are about 17...20 years old, running 12 hours a day, and they still have a great picture.
I remember when batteries would go flat long before they leaked, rather than the other way around, dammit