The 4 pin is a single pole single throw (SPST) and the 5 pin is a single pole dual throw (SPDT). The extra pin is for the normally closed terminal (NC)
I have a buddy who is trying to wire up a aftermarket alternator with a dial to adjust the alternator amps what do you think we should do to hook it up
I think there is no nee in trying that. An alternator can produce so many amps but that doesn't mean it just sits there putting out that amp all the time. Let's say you have a 90 amp alternator. It doesn't produce 90 amps all the time. It will deliver up to 90 amps on demand. It already has a built in regulator that is doing what you all want to do. Now if you have an old DC generator or an old alternator that requires an external regulator, you could make one that you can reduce the output but it still doesn't make sense to do that. Maybe you need to tell me what you are actually trying to do here. You can contact me through my site.
I am not clear on what you are asking. You said you got a 4 Pin relay but can only 5 a pin, what dose that mean? If you are saying you have a 5 pin relay and trying to plug it in a 4 pin relay socket, I wouldn't recommend breaking off the pin unless you know for a fact if all the other 4 pins are being connected properly. I would just buy a 4 pin relay. If it is the other way around and you are going to plug a 4 pin relay into a 5 pin socket, I would just ensure that all the pins will be connecting to the right wires. If I am missing the question, please clear up my misunderstanding.
The relay center socket for my cooling fans (high speed) only has tabs for 4 pins, the center hole is empty. The relay i pulled out has 5 pins. From what i gather from your video, the center (5) pin isnt used, correct? Reason i ask, my new cooling fans never kick on HIGH, thats what lead me here. Should the socket have 5 inner tabs? Note, fans work on low speed fine.
I am scratching my head on how many people keep going on about high speed and low speed. There is ONLY ONE SPEED!!! The fan is on, or it is off, there are no multiple speeds. The 5th terminal is always switched closed, so when you add power to the relay, that leg becomes open. It serves no purpose when hooking up a cooling fan. Have you added these fans or are you trying to diagnose a factory fan? There is no speed controller to make the fan have a high speed or a low speed. Perhaps you are messing with some factory setup. But when hooking up a cooling fan. There is battery power that goes from the battery to PIN 30 on the relay. PIN 87 runs to the fan. PINs 85 and 86 are the low voltage switch, triggered by a coolant temp sensor or a switch on the dash. At no point is there a resistor or speed controller. If you have something in your system controlling fan speed, which would make no sense at all, then that setup is beyond my wiring diagram and you would need to refer to an OEM wiring diagram.
@@RodsshopOrg OE fans, only one worked. Replaced with aftermarket. I have two relays, one marked "low/high" the other marked "high" for the fans. When i first bought the car, im sure the fan speed went into high mode in the summer with A/C on. At least both fans are running now, thanks for the info.
@@RodsshopOrg 2004 Chrysler 300M Special. Google said low fan speed up to a certain temp, then high fan speed when temps reach 220 to 230 deg. This car has boggled my mind of late lol
@@HackHunter1835 Leave it to Chrysler to come up with such a dumb idea. Unless you want to do some custom wiring, you are kind of at the mercy of that ridiculous set up. Rewiring wouldn't be too hard, just depends on if you want to get into all of that. You would need to replace the coolant temp sensor with a real standard one that turns on like at 185° and shuts off at 200°. And just run your own relay and wiring to the fans. Fans either need to be on or off. The low speed and high speed thing serve no purpose. All it does is complicate things when stuff starts messing up.
I usually run the fuse in between the relay and what it is running. The reason for that is to protect the relay. If the load is enough to blow the fuse, that means it will burn the contacts or weld them together in the relay if the fuse is in between the battery and relay.
@@atvrider1805 That depends, how much does each item use alone and will you ever run all three at the same time. The 12V plug obviously isn't going to draw anything unless you have some plugged in. But let's say that the Light bar pulls 20 and the Winch pulls 30. If you use them at the same time, you will burn the relay up. You need to see how much amps these things pull. May be better to run separate Relays and Fuses for each
@@RodsshopOrg my light bar is 5 amp winch switch is low amps probably 5 as well and 12v plug be what ever is hooked to it has a 15 amp fuse on the battery line
There is no reason you have to use a 5 pin, just use a 4. Or are you talking about replacing on that was already there? Please be more specific to what you are asking. You don't want to be powering the fuel pump without a relay.
@@RodsshopOrg the fuel pump is already powered by the 4 pin switch but it will not crank my truck sometimes and since there is a connection for 5 pins I thought it might need a 5 pin switch
![How To Test and Diagnose Relays and Wiring [4 & 5 Pin]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-DwV0HLsE4/mqdefault.jpg)
The 4 pin is a single pole single throw (SPST) and the 5 pin is a single pole dual throw (SPDT). The extra pin is for the normally closed terminal (NC)
I have a buddy who is trying to wire up a aftermarket alternator with a dial to adjust the alternator amps what do you think we should do to hook it up
I think there is no nee in trying that. An alternator can produce so many amps but that doesn't mean it just sits there putting out that amp all the time. Let's say you have a 90 amp alternator. It doesn't produce 90 amps all the time. It will deliver up to 90 amps on demand. It already has a built in regulator that is doing what you all want to do. Now if you have an old DC generator or an old alternator that requires an external regulator, you could make one that you can reduce the output but it still doesn't make sense to do that. Maybe you need to tell me what you are actually trying to do here. You can contact me through my site.
I got a 4 pin relay for radiator fan but i can only 5 a pin for it can i break the middle pin and plug it in will that work
I am not clear on what you are asking. You said you got a 4 Pin relay but can only 5 a pin, what dose that mean? If you are saying you have a 5 pin relay and trying to plug it in a 4 pin relay socket, I wouldn't recommend breaking off the pin unless you know for a fact if all the other 4 pins are being connected properly. I would just buy a 4 pin relay. If it is the other way around and you are going to plug a 4 pin relay into a 5 pin socket, I would just ensure that all the pins will be connecting to the right wires. If I am missing the question, please clear up my misunderstanding.
The relay center socket for my cooling fans (high speed) only has tabs for 4 pins, the center hole is empty. The relay i pulled out has 5 pins. From what i gather from your video, the center (5) pin isnt used, correct? Reason i ask, my new cooling fans never kick on HIGH, thats what lead me here. Should the socket have 5 inner tabs? Note, fans work on low speed fine.
I am scratching my head on how many people keep going on about high speed and low speed. There is ONLY ONE SPEED!!! The fan is on, or it is off, there are no multiple speeds.
The 5th terminal is always switched closed, so when you add power to the relay, that leg becomes open. It serves no purpose when hooking up a cooling fan.
Have you added these fans or are you trying to diagnose a factory fan? There is no speed controller to make the fan have a high speed or a low speed.
Perhaps you are messing with some factory setup. But when hooking up a cooling fan. There is battery power that goes from the battery to PIN 30 on the relay. PIN 87 runs to the fan. PINs 85 and 86 are the low voltage switch, triggered by a coolant temp sensor or a switch on the dash. At no point is there a resistor or speed controller.
If you have something in your system controlling fan speed, which would make no sense at all, then that setup is beyond my wiring diagram and you would need to refer to an OEM wiring diagram.
@@RodsshopOrg OE fans, only one worked. Replaced with aftermarket. I have two relays, one marked "low/high" the other marked "high" for the fans. When i first bought the car, im sure the fan speed went into high mode in the summer with A/C on. At least both fans are running now, thanks for the info.
@@HackHunter1835 What kind of car is this, I would like to research this High/Low stuff and try and understand their reasoning behind it.
@@RodsshopOrg 2004 Chrysler 300M Special. Google said low fan speed up to a certain temp, then high fan speed when temps reach 220 to 230 deg. This car has boggled my mind of late lol
@@HackHunter1835 Leave it to Chrysler to come up with such a dumb idea. Unless you want to do some custom wiring, you are kind of at the mercy of that ridiculous set up.
Rewiring wouldn't be too hard, just depends on if you want to get into all of that.
You would need to replace the coolant temp sensor with a real standard one that turns on like at 185° and shuts off at 200°. And just run your own relay and wiring to the fans.
Fans either need to be on or off. The low speed and high speed thing serve no purpose. All it does is complicate things when stuff starts messing up.
Where should fuse be on the wire from the battery to the relay right
I usually run the fuse in between the relay and what it is running. The reason for that is to protect the relay. If the load is enough to blow the fuse, that means it will burn the contacts or weld them together in the relay if the fuse is in between the battery and relay.
@@RodsshopOrg can one 40 amp relay run 3 Acessories a light bar 12v plug and winch switch
@@atvrider1805 That depends, how much does each item use alone and will you ever run all three at the same time. The 12V plug obviously isn't going to draw anything unless you have some plugged in. But let's say that the Light bar pulls 20 and the Winch pulls 30. If you use them at the same time, you will burn the relay up. You need to see how much amps these things pull. May be better to run separate Relays and Fuses for each
@@RodsshopOrg my light bar is 5 amp winch switch is low amps probably 5 as well and 12v plug be what ever is hooked to it has a 15 amp fuse on the battery line
Will the five pin relay help the fuel pump come on?
There is no reason you have to use a 5 pin, just use a 4. Or are you talking about replacing on that was already there? Please be more specific to what you are asking. You don't want to be powering the fuel pump without a relay.
@@RodsshopOrg the fuel pump is already powered by the 4 pin switch but it will not crank my truck sometimes and since there is a connection for 5 pins I thought it might need a 5 pin switch