Thanks for the guide! Here are notes I took from your video for quick reference : - Select practice session - Load agressive preset - Raise TC/TC2 - ABS to 4 (5 for Porsche) - Fuel 20 l - Brake pads n°1 - Brake bias : . Front engine: 64-65% . Middle engine: 55-57% . Rear engine: 51-52% (911 GT Cup), 55-56% (911 GT3 R II) - Brake ducts to 1 (rear) and 2 (front) [ TEST DRIVE ] - Tyre pressures to aim hot psi around 27-28 (dry) or 29-30 (wet) - Front camber to have less than 9°C of difference between I and O - Rear camber to have less than 5°C of difference between I and O [ TEST DRIVE ] - Check tyres + camber again - Open brake ducts if tyres overheat, close if they can't gain any heat - Lower front ride height as low as possible - Lower rear ride height to reach the same "aero variation" as before lowering the front ride height [ TEST DRIVE ] - Either, lower rear ride height (and rise read wing if necessary) to lower "aero variation" further more, until the rear end is stable Or, raise it until you start to loose the read end - Check tyres + camber again
Thank you for the summary very helpful post-watching; Please watch the video first to Support VR Simracing's effort since reading comments without watching the video doesn't pay the creator..
That is fuuuuuking genius. Days and weeks and months of videos and blogs and forums and testing and notes. But this, this summarises it all and it's genius. Thank you. Also, very useful starting point too - a lot of cars kill me with Aggressive setup, I'll try whacking up the TC first. thanks
thanks SO much!! just with the settings I went from 2:25 to 2:22 on Spa! still a long way to go but that helped a ton! Feels like a new car now, I am driving the AMR V8 Vantage GT3
This is the best video on ACC setups out there. Wish I watched this earlier. It has the same conclusions I had after 9 months of trial and error on this game.
I think the only thing i do differently and works really well on any car is that i set tc to 2 and it gives you more rotation if you know how to use it
Hi. Can you please explain how to adjust the camber? Let's say if outside temp is higher than inside do I increase or decrease camber and vice versa. If inside it hotter than outside. Other than that, your guide is pretty amazing.
If Inside is to hot than decrease -Negative Camber If Outside is to hot than increase -Negative Camber Typical rule of thumb is that you don't really won't more than a 10 degree difference between the inner and outer part of the tire. Try and keep the inner and outer part of the tire within that 10 degree window. Alot of Negative Front Camber= Responsive front end and great turn in response, but not as much grip leading to understeer. Lower Front Camber= More grip (To help understeer) But slower/Less responsive/less initial turn in. More even wear & Temps on front tires. It's about balancing what you need out of the car between the 2 settings without going to far and making the car unhappy. Hope this helps you in some way. Take Care.
Hi. Thanks for helping me out with this. But i didnt quite understand what you were meant to do for the tyre pressure and camber. Can you please explain it clearer? Thanks!
Great guide because it's showing the order how to do a setup. Does anyone know if the lower value on the brake ducts means that they are more open or more closed?
Leave it stock for the beginning. On fast tracks try to lower front and rear values. Still some rule of thumb here - front toe should be negative value and rear - positive. You can try -0.07 front / +0.05 rear.
I’m using the Porsche at Kyalami and it seems impossible to me to heat up the outside of the front tyres, I have minimum camber, but still no improvement. Track temp is 23°
Nicely done, I still do not understand what you are doing with tyre pressure... if you aim for 28 hot for dry tyres, you should have added more cold psi... or am I wrong?
I can answer this one. It has to do with the weight distribution in the car. You want each set of brakes to brake as hard as they can without breaking loose. So front-engine cars front-brakes have a bit more weight to the front and thus the front brakes work a little better. Rear-engine cars have more weight over the rear, and thus those brakes receive a bit more bias. This changes even lap to lap though as your tires wear and you drop fuel. It's wise to have the balance easily accessible from your wheel. A good rule of thumb is that you generally want as much rearward bias until you start getting a bit too much slide as you brake into a turn. When this happens, give it a couple clicks forward.
They have more weight coming to front wheels under heavy braking. So car stops much more effective. You can make some experiments by yourself. Choose any Front Engine car, set ABS to 0 / BB to 57 or something like that. And you'll see how your rear start to slide under heavy braking.
@@simstation1122 Just to elaborate, my rear starts to slide while trail braking. Is there anything I can do to ease that off other than having to step on the gas to stabilize the car? Should I adjust my TC higher or maybe even have the brake bias overall more towards the rear like you stated? I drive the Honda NSX btw.
Great video, do you keep the same setup for 20L as you would for 50-60L? What about conditions, would you save and use the one preset for all dry conditions regardless of other factors?
With more fuel and load to tyres your pressures will rise a bit. Still if you aim for 27.5 psi - you are ok. But most important factor is track temp. For example you've made a setup for 21C track condition. And your tyres are 27.5 psi after 4-5 laps. So when you enter server with same track but temp 28C, your pressures with saved setup will be higher. So you need to lower cold pressures and open brake ducts. Also for the 60+L of fuel load you can change a brake bias for 0.8 to the back. For example from 64 to 63.2.
@@simstation1122 Big thankyou I found 1+ second on my hot laps and 1+ second on my race pace from this video! More importantly, the race pace laps went from sketchy to super easy and consistent! I did have a follow up question, this worked perfectly on Zolder, however on both Spa and Bathurst after doing the Aero setup the car struggled to turn well and would oversteer/feel too stiff and slow. I didn't do any camber/toe adjustments since it wasn't covered specifically. That said with just the ABS/TC/Brake Pad + Ducts and correct tyre psi after multiple adjustments the car is significantly better and drives much more how I would expect it to (Porsche). Is that the reason the car isn't working despite keeping the Aero balance the same? And if so should I be looking into toe and camber to make the full setup work? Great work
@@MCR.88 Aero is pretty complicated in ACC. I can't help you with that in one comment. Try not to stick exactly to base aero balance. If you lack rear stability - just add more rear wing and rise front ride high. Also I highly recommend to watch Aris.Drives channel. He is one of developers who explains how things work in ACC.
Brake pads 1 - are most aggressive and capable to live 1-1.5h races. Brake pads 2 - less aggressive and capable to last up to 10h stints. Brake pads 3 - something like WET pads. They are not so aggressive and hold the temperature. Brake pads 4 - Extremely aggressive. Last not more than 30 minutes. They gain optimal temp very fast and loose temps on the straight also very fast. So consider them as QUAL pads, but I don't recommend them for tracks with long straights.
Hello can you explain the camber again? So do you mean, with the front tires, you don't want +- 9 between the left and right tires and +-5 between to two rear tires?
Nope mate. You got it completely wrong. What I mean - the difference between inside and outside temperature of any FRONT tire should be not more than 9. And rear - not more than 5. Look more precise at tires setup page. There is 3 temp readings for each wheel. Outside - Middle - Inside. So we talk about difference between O and I temps.
@@simstation1122 I noticed for the 991 2 lowering the antiroll bar helps with the ass pushing out. I've been putting it to 1 or less and it seems like it helps...I've also read it's best to have PSI to 26. What do you think?
Thanks for the guide!
Here are notes I took from your video for quick reference :
- Select practice session
- Load agressive preset
- Raise TC/TC2
- ABS to 4 (5 for Porsche)
- Fuel 20 l
- Brake pads n°1
- Brake bias :
. Front engine: 64-65%
. Middle engine: 55-57%
. Rear engine: 51-52% (911 GT Cup), 55-56% (911 GT3 R II)
- Brake ducts to 1 (rear) and 2 (front)
[ TEST DRIVE ]
- Tyre pressures to aim hot psi around 27-28 (dry) or 29-30 (wet)
- Front camber to have less than 9°C of difference between I and O
- Rear camber to have less than 5°C of difference between I and O
[ TEST DRIVE ]
- Check tyres + camber again
- Open brake ducts if tyres overheat, close if they can't gain any heat
- Lower front ride height as low as possible
- Lower rear ride height to reach the same "aero variation" as before lowering the front ride height
[ TEST DRIVE ]
- Either, lower rear ride height (and rise read wing if necessary) to lower "aero variation" further more, until the rear end is stable
Or, raise it until you start to loose the read end
- Check tyres + camber again
Thank you for the summary very helpful post-watching; Please watch the video first to Support VR Simracing's effort since reading comments without watching the video doesn't pay the creator..
Thank you
Thx bro
ah I was about to note down and felt like looking at comments, cheers to me, well done!
Thanks!!
This is probably the easiest to understand setup guide I've seen for any game. Well done.
I feel the same .Nice job
That is fuuuuuking genius. Days and weeks and months of videos and blogs and forums and testing and notes. But this, this summarises it all and it's genius. Thank you. Also, very useful starting point too - a lot of cars kill me with Aggressive setup, I'll try whacking up the TC first. thanks
thanks SO much!!
just with the settings I went from 2:25 to 2:22 on Spa! still a long way to go but that helped a ton!
Feels like a new car now, I am driving the AMR V8 Vantage GT3
Congratulations! You've summarised in 4 minutes what some youtubers take much more time! Thank you very much!
This was one of the most useful and to the point videos on navigating and using the car setup menu. I've saved it for future reference. Well Done!
This is the best video on ACC setups out there. Wish I watched this earlier. It has the same conclusions I had after 9 months of trial and error on this game.
Great job breaking it down for us beginners. Thank you!!!! We'll done!!
Straight to the point no bs!! Loved this video! Help me gain 3 seconds on my favorite track
Simple and elegant. Thanks!
It's really awesome I saw my favorite Audi racing cars in this game
This was great. Thank you my brotha 💪🏾
this is the type of info that sims should come stock with. Fantastic!
Fast and clear, thank you so much, great
thank you for this guide!
Great guide 👍 short and useful informations...thx a lot
I think the only thing i do differently and works really well on any car is that i set tc to 2 and it gives you more rotation if you know how to use it
this is treasure!!!! thanks for amazing setup guide!!!
Hi. Can you please explain how to adjust the camber? Let's say if outside temp is higher than inside do I increase or decrease camber and vice versa. If inside it hotter than outside. Other than that, your guide is pretty amazing.
If Inside is to hot than decrease -Negative Camber
If Outside is to hot than increase -Negative Camber
Typical rule of thumb is that you don't really won't more than a 10 degree difference between the inner and outer part of the tire. Try and keep the inner and outer part of the tire within that 10 degree window.
Alot of Negative Front Camber= Responsive front end and great turn in response, but not as much grip leading to understeer.
Lower Front Camber= More grip (To help understeer) But slower/Less responsive/less initial turn in.
More even wear & Temps on front tires. It's about balancing what you need out of the car between the 2 settings without going to far and making the car unhappy.
Hope this helps you in some way. Take Care.
I like the damper section. Would saved me a lot of time if somebody would had explain me it this way. 😁
Great approach. Thanks
At Last Easy Guide To Follow Thanks ...
It Works 🥰, I improved 1 sec my pb time in Nurburgrin 😘👍
Thank you
Very excellent guide
I always drive in Hotlap mode
The brake duct opening should be based on brake bias .. if the bias is toward the rear then keep the rear vent open more than the front.
This is an awesome guide! thank you for making it simple to follow
Lol very simple, earned a sub here
Hi. Thanks for helping me out with this. But i didnt quite understand what you were meant to do for the tyre pressure and camber. Can you please explain it clearer? Thanks!
Thank you! Well done.
Outstanding
Awesome dude
very informative and good hing please make a one with abit more detail for the next step
Thank you, will try
Damn best video ever. I’m subbed!!!
thanks mate very helpful!
Awesome video m8 that helped me alot thank you!
Bravo c’est top
well done indeed!!
Ty so much dude
Explain the camber adjustments more in depth please
Great guide because it's showing the order how to do a setup.
Does anyone know if the lower value on the brake ducts means that they are more open or more closed?
Lower value - means more close. So more temperature will be kept on brakes and tires. The higher number = more opened brake ducts = lower temps.
@@simstation1122 Ok. Thanks for answering🙂
Nice ! Muito bom !
Very good!! How about steering wheel setting!! Lots of looseness and slack on my g29🤔🤔
cyril browning same here🧐😛
There's a video out now its perfect
Anthony Williams where?
@cyril browning
Look for Aris.drives on TH-cam he has a quick video from a stream where he says set the Force Feedback
Thanks 🍻
You mention adjusting camber, but what about toe? Have a rule of thumb for toe vs camber adjustment?
Leave it stock for the beginning. On fast tracks try to lower front and rear values. Still some rule of thumb here - front toe should be negative value and rear - positive. You can try -0.07 front / +0.05 rear.
Thanks very useful, if you could make a good all round setup for the 2015 lambo and upload the json file that would honestly be great!
I’m using the Porsche at Kyalami and it seems impossible to me to heat up the outside of the front tyres, I have minimum camber, but still no improvement. Track temp is 23°
Thanks. Gt4 setup guide?
Nicely done, I still do not understand what you are doing with tyre pressure... if you aim for 28 hot for dry tyres, you should have added more cold psi... or am I wrong?
yes, you got it right - just add cold PSI. Until you reach target hot PSI after another 4-5 test laps.
Just had surgery. New Fannatec gear coming Tuesday. Can’t even open boxes! Screw me!
I don't understand It with the tire pressure when there is 26,7 at PSI hot
What do I need to do? 😅
Higher it with + 0,8. (27,5 - 26,7 =? 0,8).
nice video. subscribed.
but can you explain a bit more on brake bias? like why you need more front brake bias on front engined cars?
I can answer this one. It has to do with the weight distribution in the car. You want each set of brakes to brake as hard as they can without breaking loose. So front-engine cars front-brakes have a bit more weight to the front and thus the front brakes work a little better. Rear-engine cars have more weight over the rear, and thus those brakes receive a bit more bias.
This changes even lap to lap though as your tires wear and you drop fuel. It's wise to have the balance easily accessible from your wheel. A good rule of thumb is that you generally want as much rearward bias until you start getting a bit too much slide as you brake into a turn. When this happens, give it a couple clicks forward.
They have more weight coming to front wheels under heavy braking. So car stops much more effective. You can make some experiments by yourself. Choose any Front Engine car, set ABS to 0 / BB to 57 or something like that. And you'll see how your rear start to slide under heavy braking.
@@simstation1122 thx mate
@@Tempest261 thx a lot
@@simstation1122 Just to elaborate, my rear starts to slide while trail braking. Is there anything I can do to ease that off other than having to step on the gas to stabilize the car? Should I adjust my TC higher or maybe even have the brake bias overall more towards the rear like you stated? I drive the Honda NSX btw.
Great video, do you keep the same setup for 20L as you would for 50-60L? What about conditions, would you save and use the one preset for all dry conditions regardless of other factors?
With more fuel and load to tyres your pressures will rise a bit. Still if you aim for 27.5 psi - you are ok. But most important factor is track temp. For example you've made a setup for 21C track condition. And your tyres are 27.5 psi after 4-5 laps. So when you enter server with same track but temp 28C, your pressures with saved setup will be higher. So you need to lower cold pressures and open brake ducts. Also for the 60+L of fuel load you can change a brake bias for 0.8 to the back. For example from 64 to 63.2.
@@simstation1122 Big thankyou I found 1+ second on my hot laps and 1+ second on my race pace from this video! More importantly, the race pace laps went from sketchy to super easy and consistent!
I did have a follow up question, this worked perfectly on Zolder, however on both Spa and Bathurst after doing the Aero setup the car struggled to turn well and would oversteer/feel too stiff and slow. I didn't do any camber/toe adjustments since it wasn't covered specifically. That said with just the ABS/TC/Brake Pad + Ducts and correct tyre psi after multiple adjustments the car is significantly better and drives much more how I would expect it to (Porsche).
Is that the reason the car isn't working despite keeping the Aero balance the same? And if so should I be looking into toe and camber to make the full setup work?
Great work
@@MCR.88 Aero is pretty complicated in ACC. I can't help you with that in one comment. Try not to stick exactly to base aero balance. If you lack rear stability - just add more rear wing and rise front ride high. Also I highly recommend to watch Aris.Drives channel. He is one of developers who explains how things work in ACC.
Good point but you have to start somewhere and this is a great foundation
@@simstation1122 sweet thank you 👍
What’s the difference between brakes in the fuel strategy section?
Brake pads 1 - are most aggressive and capable to live 1-1.5h races.
Brake pads 2 - less aggressive and capable to last up to 10h stints.
Brake pads 3 - something like WET pads. They are not so aggressive and hold the temperature.
Brake pads 4 - Extremely aggressive. Last not more than 30 minutes. They gain optimal temp very fast and loose temps on the straight also very fast. So consider them as QUAL pads, but I don't recommend them for tracks with long straights.
VR Simracing thank you for the info. Could not find this info anywhere.
I heard that pads 4 are to simulate worn pad. So you can see how your car will behave at the end of the race. Do you agree with this?
Hello can you explain the camber again? So do you mean, with the front tires, you don't want +- 9 between the left and right tires and +-5 between to two rear tires?
Nope mate. You got it completely wrong. What I mean - the difference between inside and outside temperature of any FRONT tire should be not more than 9. And rear - not more than 5. Look more precise at tires setup page. There is 3 temp readings for each wheel. Outside - Middle - Inside. So we talk about difference between O and I temps.
@@simstation1122 I noticed for the 991 2 lowering the antiroll bar helps with the ass pushing out. I've been putting it to 1 or less and it seems like it helps...I've also read it's best to have PSI to 26. What do you think?
@@simstation1122 and when there is more then 9? 😅
How brake ducts effects aero?
I'am 90% sure it's somehow affects aero / max speed, but didn't find any info/prove of it.
where does this brake balance 65% etc come from ?
Brake balance should match weight distribution under breaking (more to the front than neutral weight distribution)
dampers😂😂😂😂....
I am not a speed reader so nothing here for me!