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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Here's a quick video to show how to remove a concrete filled structural support steel post. This way you don't have to use a torch, wet saw, or hack and smash any concrete.
I went through a lot of options, and this was by far fastest for me.
You need a simple 20$ angle grinder and the right wheels to do the job.
Tools you may need:
Shop Vacuum
Cardboard, or covering to block off work area
Goggles, Face Mask, and Gloves
Angle Grinder with
(1) Steel cut off wheel
(1) Steel grinding wheel
(1) Masonry Grinding Wheel
(1) 7" Diamond Tipped Masonry Dry/wet blade/wheel
Process take about 20-30 minutes per post, less if you do not have to level the concrete as I did.
Hope this helps!
Sorry to say this after all your hard work: once the steel is cut, all you need to do is hit it sideways with a hammer or sledgehammer. The concrete will shatter easily.
Also, if a large pipe cutter is available for rent, this will roll around the pipe with carbide wheels and cut in seconds, both steel and concrete will split.
It may be hard to remove the column if the building weight drops down.
Great to know! Had a sledge laying a few feet away too, wish I would have tried it.Though, either way I would have ended up having to grind the concrete for the finish floor to sit.Appreciate the tip David.
Yup
Jesus loves you all❤️, allow him into your hearts.
Thanks for the video. I have a steel bollard that used to protect my old water heater in my garage. I changed to a tankless water heater and want to remove the bollard to gain some garage space.
Nice and thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video!
Great video. Do you have links for wheels used? I have very similar ryobi grinder
i dont have links, but all are available at home deopt
Awesome video. Thanks.
I have some steel fence posts that were incorrectly installed. Will filling it up with concrete stiffen it up?
This really depends, if you dig out around your posts and repour in a deeper pour, then yes it will strengthen it.
@@CinKoDel what I mean is filling the hollow posts with concrete from the top so that concrete fills the entire post.
It will make the post itself stronger, but if there is an issue with the base connection, filling it will do nothing to help that. The post are under compression, filling them with concrete is essentially like using a thicker wall pipe or hss. If you have a sch 40 pipe, and fill it will concrete it may increase its strength to a performance yield closer to 80 or even120 (depending on concrete type and PSI) under compressionHowever a bad footing would fail out faster then that post would. I am only guessing but what you mean but "incorrectly installed" I was assuming you meant the connection at the footer. If not let me know and I will try to help.
@@CinKoDel the issue is that my workers dug the post holes too shallow (they hit solid rock and gave up). Of a 3 meter post, I wanted the post holes to be 75cm deep, they dug only 60cm. Also, they used 4*4cm hollow beams intermittently which flex a bit...that's why I was wondering about filling them up to make them stiffer. I'd really like to avoid having to use diagonal braces for aesthetic reasons. I got temp braces on em now. I also welded flanges to the base which act like cantilevers. The soil is gravel top soil, the next level is rock. Thanks for taking the time to answer. Much appreciated.
@@CinKoDel photos.app.goo.gl/kN4V9oX6mwRBv1Bu5
Mabe a dumb question but do you have a footing poured for the new column? If not how thick is the concrete slab
Not a dumb question at all, and I should probably point out as there are plenty of contractors that pour slabs thinner now then they use to. This is a 6" slab on grade. I have seen basement slabs as thin as 3" on grade. This is a very important thing to make sure off before relocating the supports. The only reason I even could confirm the thickness is I installed a full perimeter French drain and a new bathroom next to the area where this was filmed so I had cutout several areas of the basement slab already.If you are unsure of the slab thickness, see if (with a newer home) you can get a PDF copy of the blue prints, or you might need to do a drill test.
Can the same be applied to a thicker post???
Yes of course, just make sure it is equally supported as required before removing.
Jesus loves you all❤️, allow him into your hearts.
Not too safe doing it this way.
Kiel, thanks for the comment, do you mind explaining a bit? Unlike most of youtube, I am a actually a professional structural engineer. What's not pointing out in this video, is my whole house is modeled in Tekla ( I have done extensive renovations and complete structural revisions throughout the remodel) and I have run point loads both tension and shear in all the main supports in my house. Even the HSS connection and base mount kwik bolt is calced and also run through profis for the anchor connection.
I may dumb down my videos for fun a bit and make sure they fit a bit more main stream, but I dont see what whoud be considered unsafe relative to any other home structure revision.
@@CinKoDel hey..Im looking to remove a pole in my basement to save some room. I was told this beam was used for "antibounce". It is under one of the I beams. The I beam is supported some of the living room floor. Do you think In remove or at the very least move it to an area...around 8 ft from where it is now?
@@drummerbee8042 Antibounce, is not a technical term by any means so I am not sure if I was you I would trust that statement from whoever told it to you. More then likely the beam that was used had a deflection under live loading that was greater then what should have normally been used. This would imply that when weight was distributed above the beam (furniture or just people standing) the beam would deflect (bow downwards) and bounce back up when weight was moved back off, this was fixed by putting a mid span support below it to diminish the deflection to a point that it didn't "bounce" when walking on and off it above. Depending on the length of the beam, 8 feet is a pretty decent size shift. For instance if the beam is running a whole house length of 60 feet and you move it over 8 feet out of center, that is a whole lot different then it being 25 feet and you move it 8 feet out of center. The best way to figure it out where you can safely move the beam without doing full engineering (and assuming a standard loading across the beam and no waterbed or chimney at some specific point on it) is to make sure the new clear span does not exceed what you have now.
Meaning if you had a 40 foot span and the post was centered, you would have a max span support of 20'feet currently (20 feet clear each side of the post). if you moved that beam over 8 feet, you would now have a span of 12' on one side and 28' on the other, that 28' side would then need to have an additional post put in somewhere near the middle to make the total clear span less then 20 feet.
Now, that is not saying that you NEED two posts, but you do NEED to get that looked at by a professional if you do decide to move it 8 feet and not add the additional post. Honestly I would have someone look at it either way, but I understand that can get costly real quick.
So to make this long comment shorter... don't exceed the max span you have now without having a licensed engineer (or at a minimum someone in home construction familiar with framing and floor supports) come and check it out.