I was running the taps sync with a surefire m340 and a steiner dbal a3. Didnt care for it. Went with a dual lead mod button and a single lead mod button. Spaced by one slot. Have the dual closest to the dbal, have that plugged into the surefire and the dbal vis overide. Small gap to avoid light ND, thats plugged into the dbal for ir laser and illuminator. Feel like it reallly simplified my setup and i dont have to switch anything back and forth. Great vid though brother, im subscribing!
I like this product because it’s a very compact pressure pad which allows me to me keep my hand in the same spot on the rifle with the thumb over-boar without accidentally activating the light. With a larger pressure pad you either cannot have that thumb over-boar, or you place your larger pressure pad further forward or backwards on the rail so you would have the move your hand to activate it which isn’t the end of the world but it’s a little inconvenient for me.
KB. You should start your own training program. Your knowledge and temperament would make you a great instructor. I'm signing up for noob 101 whenever you start...
Have a single lead to white light. It acts as if it is pressure sensitive, if you don’t get a full strength press, the light is dim, and if you press harder, it gets brighter. Don’t really love that about it. Other than that it’s good.
Out of curiosity does your single lead go to a surefire? I noticed with my modbutton that when I switched from my surefire m600 DF to the modlite okw(even keeping the surefire ds00 tail cap) that I didn’t have inconsistencies with brightness or any flickering. Was 100% my surefire, not the mod button in my case.
It goes to a surefire tailcap to arisaka adapter to a streamlight light. I know, an extra connection and not the best light, but the the button seems to be the part restricting the voltage.
I had one of the Unity Sync dual feed switches and I just didn’t like it. I went with two Modbutton lites and the one up front controls the LAM and the one behind it runs my white light. Thinking about getting one of their mounts that holds two. There’s one mount that has them on an angle but still one in front and one right behind. I like the setup and I feel comfortable with them like I have it.
Mod buttons suck in general. I've had three dual leads first one completely died, and the replacement for it seemed like only half of the already small button worked. The one I have currently (the third) needs pressed hard and in exactly the center to activate. If I didn't need it for my CQBL & KIJI setup it would be gone also. I've had one surefire lead mod button it had roughly the same issues of the dual leads plus a lot of flickering. The hot button is better I've had two (one currently) the first one had the lead cutoff it. Sadly looks like they'll never make the dual lead hot button so I'm stuck with the dual lead mod button for now.
@@TCraig00 not really I want to hit one button that turns the CQBL & KIJI on simultaneously. The axon is essentially a mod button and a hot button. I would have to hit both buttons at the same time to achieve what the dual lead mod button does. My only other option is a Untiy taps, but I don't have enough rail space for that.
Apparently there is no way to activate both devices from a single button, so the only workaround is stacking both buttons on top of each other. Just the best compromise out there.
Will this modlite button work on my LS117 green laser and surefire m340? I’m setting up my systems for home defense. No money for NVGs, but do have enough for naked eyes
Yes, I use my switch on a Holosun LE117 along with an Echo Arms dual light body setup. I haven't used my switch a lot yet, but so far it is holding up from light use.
Yes. Any crane plug will work. I run two Modbutton lites separate but butted up to one another. One with crane plug for my LS321G and the other has the regular plug for Surefire M600DF and both work great. I’ve heard and found that switches that have dual feed may night run your light as bright but that could be false so don’t take my word for it. I’d rather have separate switches one for my white light and the other for my LAM
You can find links to everything here: kitbadger.com/duel-lead-modbutton-by-modlite/
Another reviewer ran into that same issue you did. The Dual lead switch seems to actually just be 2 regular Mod buttons stacked on top of eachother.
Seeing someone on TH-cam talking like a real person instead of a bad actor is very nice.
I was running the taps sync with a surefire m340 and a steiner dbal a3. Didnt care for it. Went with a dual lead mod button and a single lead mod button. Spaced by one slot. Have the dual closest to the dbal, have that plugged into the surefire and the dbal vis overide. Small gap to avoid light ND, thats plugged into the dbal for ir laser and illuminator. Feel like it reallly simplified my setup and i dont have to switch anything back and forth. Great vid though brother, im subscribing!
I like this product because it’s a very compact pressure pad which allows me to me keep my hand in the same spot on the rifle with the thumb over-boar without accidentally activating the light. With a larger pressure pad you either cannot have that thumb over-boar, or you place your larger pressure pad further forward or backwards on the rail so you would have the move your hand to activate it which isn’t the end of the world but it’s a little inconvenient for me.
Really like the cable management there. Locked down with arson machine mount picatinny
I really liked that MAWL/Vampire setup you describe.
KB. You should start your own training program. Your knowledge and temperament would make you a great instructor. I'm signing up for noob 101 whenever you start...
I'm really wanting to try the new eotech laser
Have a single lead to white light. It acts as if it is pressure sensitive, if you don’t get a full strength press, the light is dim, and if you press harder, it gets brighter. Don’t really love that about it. Other than that it’s good.
Out of curiosity does your single lead go to a surefire? I noticed with my modbutton that when I switched from my surefire m600 DF to the modlite okw(even keeping the surefire ds00 tail cap) that I didn’t have inconsistencies with brightness or any flickering. Was 100% my surefire, not the mod button in my case.
It goes to a surefire tailcap to arisaka adapter to a streamlight light. I know, an extra connection and not the best light, but the the button seems to be the part restricting the voltage.
But can I put two white lights and use them in conjunction so my rifle has headlights
Hey Ivan have you tried the Axion buttons yet? They have this feature or you can pick a switch that was independent.
I had one of the Unity Sync dual feed switches and I just didn’t like it. I went with two Modbutton lites and the one up front controls the LAM and the one behind it runs my white light. Thinking about getting one of their mounts that holds two. There’s one mount that has them on an angle but still one in front and one right behind. I like the setup and I feel comfortable with them like I have it.
Pretty slick idea and setup. Does it work? Ive had other switches that only partially worked.
Works for me. I run a M600v and LS117IR off it. I call it “LAM at home”
Mod buttons suck in general. I've had three dual leads first one completely died, and the replacement for it seemed like only half of the already small button worked. The one I have currently (the third) needs pressed hard and in exactly the center to activate. If I didn't need it for my CQBL & KIJI setup it would be gone also. I've had one surefire lead mod button it had roughly the same issues of the dual leads plus a lot of flickering.
The hot button is better I've had two (one currently) the first one had the lead cutoff it. Sadly looks like they'll never make the dual lead hot button so I'm stuck with the dual lead mod button for now.
Does that new unity axon not work for what you need?
@@TCraig00 not really I want to hit one button that turns the CQBL & KIJI on simultaneously. The axon is essentially a mod button and a hot button. I would have to hit both buttons at the same time to achieve what the dual lead mod button does. My only other option is a Untiy taps, but I don't have enough rail space for that.
Unity still makes the TAPS switches, they seem to be superior. The downside is they a big...
Dual? Or Duel?
That one.
Apparently there is no way to activate both devices from a single button, so the only workaround is stacking both buttons on top of each other. Just the best compromise out there.
Will this modlite button work on my LS117 green laser and surefire m340? I’m setting up my systems for home defense. No money for NVGs, but do have enough for naked eyes
There's no reason to get this crap now that Unity released the Axon if you get the synced version
How do you like that dual light head body? Looking at one of those for the new 3EIR IR-V VCSEL + laser head.
Will it plug in to holosun lasers?
Yes, I use my switch on a Holosun LE117 along with an Echo Arms dual light body setup. I haven't used my switch a lot yet, but so far it is holding up from light use.
Yes. Any crane plug will work. I run two Modbutton lites separate but butted up to one another. One with crane plug for my LS321G and the other has the regular plug for Surefire M600DF and both work great. I’ve heard and found that switches that have dual feed may night run your light as bright but that could be false so don’t take my word for it. I’d rather have separate switches one for my white light and the other for my LAM
Yes crane plug
#mashinitweird