I looked at many, many fan install videos before getting the courage to cut a hole in my new Nissan NV2500 and thank God I saw this the night before - the BEST video tutorial ever! We followed your video instructions today and all worked flawlessly. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
This is one of the best support videos ever!! It made this install easy and painless. I cut that whole with no nervousness and followed many of the helpful Pro tips. Thank you for sharing your best practices.
With so many of these install videos, I can't believe how many are terrible. Yours was the one I used for my 2021 Transit. Now I just need to wire it up!
That's great to hear! I'm happy you found it helpful :-) On a transit, you can wire it up to the customer connection point but it really wants to have an alternate battery. The CCP only stays live for 30 minutes to an hour and also depends on the state of charge of your battery. If you look up "customer connection point transit" you'll find some useful information about it. Stay cool 😎
Congrats on your install! Yes, window weld is super messy! Mineral spirits helps. I'm sure there's other more potent solvents but mineral spirits has worked great for me in the past.
That's my VAN!!!! I love it!!! You did such a great job Jimmy. Every time i open or close my vent I'm gonna see the ram talking now HA! I look forward to many more projects with you. You da best! Peace out.
Love this. So clear and making an update in title shows you've prior experience. I found when I pryed up the inner loose sheet metal and stretched tape under, across the corners for support along with upper tape the metal was way more stable. Now I'm guessing cure time, temp, humidity for window weld. :]
Thanks for the compliment! I have SO MUCH experience now... Yes, good call on taping the corners. I'm sure that felt great. Nice job! How did the install turn out?
One trick I've found to avoid flapping/rattling is to cut almost to the corner but not quite. Then when you have it all 99% cut you just come back and cut the last 1/8th inch at each corner. It's a little hard to get right depending on what material you are doing though
Great info.and video! I am about to put a front and rear fan in my Promaster. I was not aware of the adapter plate availability. I will be ordering off the links on video. Hopefully you get a bump. I could not locate one of those shoulder goats however! Also Lauren H. You can never have enough lap sealant. Lol.
Oh my goodness! You made my morning! Those goats are hard to come by. Probably because of the pandemic. They've been on backorder for months now. Glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful! Also, I don't get anything for recommending impact 3d to people but if you want to tell them who referred you, I'd love that. Thanks!
cheers and thanks for the video! Fan is the next step in my motovan and liked how you included little wiring in it. Most just stop at the fan and end the video haha no solar yet and wanting to piggy back off the LED lighting atm
Hey Connor. Just seeing this post. I hope your install went well and everything has worked out. I just read this and gulped in fear about piggybacking off your LED wiring. I hope you chose an alternative route and wired it directly to a house battery or at least to a cigarette lighter plug. I fear that wires going to LED lights would fail and melt or catch fire. Unless you used larger gauge wire and fused it properly...
@@LevityVans hahaha NOT TO WORRY! I appreciate you getting back to me. I ended up going with an external battery bank and NOT to my car battery as in my question.
Mate, have watched the whole WWW. This video was boss, did take template off to cut. Other than that... Thanks mate, ever up in Tahoe give me a shout, I owe you a beer or three 🍻🍻🍻
I really appreciate your video and thanks for taking the time to produce it!! I just got my fan for my Transit build yesterday and wasn't sure if I need that extra gasket but yesterday I took a closer look at the install and realized it's a must. I was watching a lot of videos and people weren't using it on their install. Thanks for the tip on securing it and then cutting around it. That's a great tip!!
@@LevityVans I just watched your video again and I'm going to start my fan install shortly!! I installed 2 back door windows yesterday that came out great but this will be my first hole in the roof!! Thanks for all your help!!
@@LevityVans Everything went great till I got the tube of Lap Sealant opened up and I realized I ordered the wrong type, I just ordered the Self Leveling type from your page. I framed out the bottom and tied the framing into my ceiling furring strips, that things as solid as a rock!! I also noticed the roof was a lot more solid after I framed it out. Thanks for all the help!!
@@bjbhehir Glad it went well! Bummer about the lap sealant. I'm not sure where you live but, if you're in Santa Cruz or close by, I'm happy to supply some sealant for you so you don't have to wait for it. I almost always go through a little more than one tube too... In case you ordered one and need extra.
Great video!! On your makita caulk gun. What number on the dial do you use when you put on the black 3m and the self leveler. Also how big of a cut on the tip of caulk tube do you do on the self leveler?
Hi Kevin! Sorry for the delay. I heat up the 3m with a heat gun first which helps it come out easier. Then I put my gun on 2. I cut the tip of the 3m at a very big angle to cover the whole piece with one go. On the self leveling lap sealant, I cut a hole about 3/4" from the tip. I heat that stuff up as well which helps it lay down quicker. You've probably already installed yours by now. If so, how did it go?
at 4:43 you have a black cover running along the top of your van.. is that covering your side air bags? I'm trying to get ideas on how to cover ours and saw that.. thanks!
Thanks for the comment Kaile. This is a cargo van so it doesn't have rear airbags. The black plastic you see is a housing for all the wires that run from the front to the rear. I'm not sure how I would recommend covering the airbags since that is a safety thing... I don't think I would recommend it. Good luck!
I just followed along your video while installing my fan. THANK YOU. Question - those 4 screws that attach the fan…they don’t need sealant or anything to keep them from shaking out on washboard roads? I feel like I’m missing something without a nut or anything to keep them there.
Jimmy, you're my hero!!! This is exactly the video I needed before making the dreaded hole in my perfectly good van roof! a couple questions: 1. What length/size self- tapping screws do you use to screw the black adapter ring to the roof? 2. since this is the first thing I'm installing, how can I test it to make sure it runs? (Nothing is wired for the conversion yet) THANK YOU AGAIN! Michelle
Hi DoctorG. 1. I used #8 self tapping screws. This is only temporary and they will be removed before you use the included screws to screw everything down. Be sure not to strip the holes when you screw them down. 2. You can test the van by connecting the black (positive) wire to the positive battery terminal and the white wire to negative. The fan will then have power and you'll be able to test it out.
Great video! I like that you install a little differently than others. It gives even more ideas for fit/waterproofing. Most fan installs stop after the install and don't show how to connect the wires. Do you have any videos showing more about this? We hope to connect our fan to a Jackery, but haven't found any good resources on how to do this. Thanks!!
Hi Andrea, thanks for the message. If you'd like to connect it to a Jackery, I would wire it to something like this: www.amazon.com/Carviya-Cigarette-Lighter-Inverter-Electric/dp/B01HGO2OIS/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=dc+plug+cigarette&qid=1591721913&sr=8-8 16 gauge is the smallest wire you'll want to use for the fan.
howdy! follow up from a previous comment -- what did you run the wiring to? Did you piggyback off existing wiring (LEDs) or did you run automotive/electrical wiring from the van to a connector with fuse relay etc to a battery source?
Thanks for the comment. Definitely don't piggy back off of existing wiring unless you know for sure that the wiring and fuse will handle it. I still don't recommend it however. LEDs have a very low amp draw and the fan, although it's not a huge draw, it's still a larger draw and if sharing power with LEDs, it could cause some melting wires or even a fire. It's best to go from the fan directly to your fuse block that is connected to your house battery or another battery source that is not your vehicles starter battery. Such as a goal zero. Make sure you use at least 16awg wire and a 10amp fuse is ideal. A 15 amp fuse is suitable.
Levity Vans awesome! Thank you tons for the swift reply! Initially was planning on piggybacking but the more I’ve watched videos the more I realized many ran it to a diff source. Thank you tons for the insight!
I don't believe so. However, you can stack up butyl tape to accomplish something similar. It's just not as rigid. Be sure not to crank the screws down too tight when installing over a thick area of butyl tape.
The part that opens goes to the rear. If you ever drive with the fan open and you had it mounted any other direction, the wind could rip the lid off...
Awesome video, thanks for posting! I need to know: around the 12 minute mark you are talking about wires and are holding a car adapter with wires that end in ring terminals. Where did you get it? Did you make it? Order it? I'd like to power my fan with the car adapter until my electrical system is complete. Thanks again!
Hey Austin. So sorry I didn't get back to you about the adapter. I'm sure you've figured it out by now but I purchased the cigarette lighter plug from west marine and wired it up and added my own ring terminals.
Yo Jimmy ! I am thinking about placing my fan in the same panel you did here (2nd from the back). However, it seems most people do it in the panel furthest back or forward, avoiding the middle. Just wondering... what was your reason for putting it in this one ? Thanks
Hey Wex. Thanks for the comment. I do like to leave either the front or the back free for a solar panel. The second panel back still leaves room to achieve this while also having the fan above the bed area. My favorite area to install the fan is toward the front. That way you can have the fan on exhaust mode with a window open near your platform bed. This clears the hot air from the ceiling, pulls fresh air in from over your feet or head and also gives your full van cross ventilation. I hope this helps. Happy hole cutting!
@@LevityVans Last question before I make the cut ! Would this change if you had a van with no windows in it? Would you put it more towards the back to pull air in from the front windows ? Also, my van doesn't have windows, but it's not too late to change that...
I'd highly recommend having the vent fan in the front and small vented windows in the rear... However, if you don't put any windows in, then yes, the rear location is probably more ideal. I still highly recommend the 1st option!
Thanks for the comment. No reason. I just haven't seen the need. When everything is screwed down these fans feel really solid. Especially if you use a vent fan adapter glued to the roof. Then you are essentially doing the same thing a wooden frame would do.
Hey great video thank you it’s helped me but it’s giving me questions on how important this adaptor is. I have an a series van up in Canada and with exchange and shipping the adaptor is over $200 more than I paid for the fan and it will take two months to get to me. I guess my questions revolve around what do you think are my other options.? Or do I just need to suck it up buttercup get off my wallet? Appreciate your advice.
Hi Kitchy. Thanks for the question. You can build up your butyl tape to make a flat surface to mount your fan. I didn't always use the adapters but they make for a cleaner and easier install. I definitely recommend it but I think I would keep sitting on my wallet for a $200 adapter.
Hey Ray! Thanks for the question. Not a stupid one at all. I may have not explained that clearly. I used self tapping screws through the fan base plate and the black adapter ring just to have the holes pre-drilled when it was ready to glue. Be sure to use an appropriate sized screw or pre-drill with the appropriate size drill. So there process is: dry fit the adapter plate with base plate on top, pre-drill all holes or screw down with self tapping screws, remove everything, prep fan base with butyl tape, glue down black adapter with 3m window weld, place vent fan base on top of adapter, screw down with supplied stainless steel screws. I usually give the window weld at least 10 minutes to cure before I add the self leveling lap sealant to the fan base, adapter and any squeeze out of window weld. Hope that helps. Good luck on your install!
I don't think it's necessary. The window weld gets fairly firm in a short amount of time unless it's very hot where you are installing. Thanks for the compliment!
Okay I just finished installing my roof fan. Couple things I'd pass on. Not sure how great of an idea it is to use the 3D printed adapter as a guide. I ended up with a lot of tiny pieces of metal embedded in mine. I got most of it out but not all. If I did it again I'd put blue masking tape on both sides. If you are gonna use the shipping box to catch debris as you cut, use shipping tape or duct tape. The vibration of sawing and drilling made mine fall down at the very last minute, right before I mounted the actual fan. And I used a ton of masking tape.
... Good point. For others, use Gorilla tape (like he did) AND a stiff leg from the van floor to the underside of the box. Wood dow, PVC pipe, broom handle, stick out of the woods, have someone (with ear plugs) hold the box, etc. ... Jeff ...
The template looks amazing but their shipping and handling is too slow. Did your previous builds that don't use the adapter leak eventually? I know this is a bit sad, as I would always prefer to do things the best way possible, but I just can't wait 15+ days to get this fan installed, I even purchased the fan locally to get moving quick. My race against winter is on. If the old-school methods proved to be sound enough, I'll rely on them.
Hey Nomad Trails! You can definitely do it without the adapter and not worry about leakage. Just build up the areas around the fan mounting plate with multiple layers of butyl tape. Try to get it as flat as possible but it will also flatten as you screw it down. The adapter plate is great but not imperative. Good luck on your install and let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
We are using #8 modified truss head self tapping screws but any #8 should work. 1" screws work on most installs but some Vans, like Transits, may require longer screws in some areas.
... 6:40 he used the self tapping to be able to drill through the roof tin. Although he didn't mention it, the stainless steel screws (that are supplied in the fan kit I believe) must not be self tapping. at 9:00 the video shows the SS screws. ... Whatever an installer does, BE SURE the self tapping screws, bit and shank, ARE NOT larger than the stainless steel screws that will be used in the final attachment. Jeff
How far does the fan lid in inches hang past the 14 1\8 inch opening on back on top ext. ? I have roof rack and don't know if it will hit racks when fan is closed ?
Sorry I missed your comment. I've been so swamped! You sometimes need to get longer screws for the thick areas of the adapter. However, if you use window weld between the roof and adapter as well as between the adapter and the mounting piece, you probably don't even need to screw it down because that stuff is so strong. This is obviously at your own risk and screwing it is definitely the failsafe was to install it.
Thanks for the comment Lauren. It is not necessary to put on as much as I do. However, my technique causes a declining slope from the inner most part of the ring. This will prevent water from sitting on the sealant and making it wear faster. For the extra few bucks, I feel it will make it last year's longer. I've also repaired leaking fans that had a minimal amount of sealant on them. I just don't want to repair any of my own installs 😁
Wow, great video, I hope to install my two fans this weekend on my Promaster and this is a huge help. Do you ever screw the flange thru the roof into wood blocks below such that you have nailers to attach the ceiling afterwards (around the fan perimeter)?
Thanks David! I have done that before, however, the ceiling is often secured close to the fan and extra attachments are usually unnecessary. Glad you enjoyed the video. Have fun on the installs!
In one of the comments you said that an interior frame is unnecessary as the exterior adapter essentially serves that purpose. If you didn’t have the adapter and just used butyl tape to build up a level surface (like you suggested in another comment) would you feel the need for interior framing? Thank you ❤
Hi Jordan! Thanks for the message. I strongly recommend the adapter in any vehicle that does not have a flat roof. We produce our own for our builds but you can purchase them at DIYVAN.com. If you use butyl tape alone and an interior brace, it will likely warp the ceiling and bend the metal. It will also bend the plastic mounting piece which will prevent the fan from ceiling correctly. Hope this helps!
I really appreciate you posting this as it will be used as a tutorial for installing my own fans. Do you have any additional recommendations on fan placement? I am planning on installing two Maxx Air Deluxe fans on a Ram Promaster 3500 Ext and was wondering if it's best to place the front fan in the second opening (as opposed to the first) to reduce noise/drag?
I'm glad you found the video helpful! In my humble opinion, I think you only need one vent fan unless you plan to use both fans in the same direction. There are a lot of recommendations out there for installing two fans so you can have one suck and the other blow. This circulates the air along the roof of the van. My recommendation is to install one fan near your cooking area and use vented windows in your sleeping area. When you have the fan in exhaust mode and one window open, it sucks in so much fresh air! Plus, this gives you more available roof space for solar and other storage. As far as placement goes, if you put it right in front, there will be some drag but also a lot of wind noise. The second opening works well though. The ProMaster is also better about the audible wind noise since most have the shelf above the cockpit so you don't hear things strait through the sheet metal ceiling... Thanks for posting and good luck with your build. Adventure Awaits!
@@LevityVans I don’t have any windows or any plans for windows so I thought I would get the second fan to serve the same purpose as a vented window. Unless there’s a cheaper option for a covered roof vent I’m not sure what the other alternative is. Love this video by the way.
Some questions for you: So why not use tin snips rather than a messy jigsaw? What the heck does “self-leveling” sealer mean? What special property are we talking about here? Why should I use all of those specialty sealants when Maxxair in their instructions recommend G.E. Silicone II? And a final question, do I need to use butyl tape or can I use 3M VHB tape? Thanks for your reply!
Thanks for the message John. You can use tin snips. I like using a jig saw. Let us all know how it goes. Maybe we will all change our method :-) Self leveling is exactly what it sounds like. If you run a bead of silicon, it stays as a bead. If you run a bead of self leveling lap sealant, it will level itself out and look smooth. I wouldn't say that Maxxair recommends G.E. Silicone II. Their documentation reads, "Silicone Sealants such as G.E. Silicone II (nonpaintable) used for outdoor applications have proven to be suitable for this installation. So, use it if you’d like. It is “suitable.”
My recommendations are purely based on installing 100’s of vent fans. As far as using VHB tape or butyl tape, I like to use 3M Window Weld for both the fan adapter as well as the vent fan mounting plate. Then cover everything with lap sealant. This has never failed in proving a great seal. You can also use bubble gum but it has to be the OG stuff. JK. I don’t trust using just VHB tape but I’ve heard of people doing it. I’m not going to take that route on my customers' vans though. Good luck on your install!
Hi David G. Thanks for the question and sorry for the late reply. I mentioned it in a comment somewhere that I started using 3M Window Weld in place of Butyl tape. I need to update the description. I just think it's easier and over there long term, more effective...
Random question but I am trying to set up my van. What do people connect their 12V DC RV roof fan/vent to if they have a solar system in their van??? From what I have seen inverters only have AC outlets?? am I missing something??? Thanks
Hey Adam. Sorry I missed your question months ago. You need to connect the leads to the battery that your solar panel is charging. Electrical is a whole nother ball game. I do have electrical kits and schematics available to purchase. If interested, fill out the DIYer form at Levityvans.com/hello to get help with a system designed for your needs. Cheers
Hi Rich. I'm happy to install a fan in your explorer, however it's not my specialty and it would be hard to give you an exact estimate. I'd need to remove your headliner before cutting the hole and since I've never done that in yours, I wouldn't know how long that would take. Feel free to reach out to me via my website to discuss further. Levityvans.com. Click the link at top that says tell us about your project and then click the appropriate link to fill out a form and request an estimate. Thanks for watching our video!
Rust neutralizers in order to do their job, they have to be applied on rusted surfaces. If there is no rust, there is no effect. Same goes for all the paints that container rust neutralizers, like hammerite, rest-oleum etc. They are meant to be used directly on rusted surfaces. They do nothing more than a regular paint when they are applied on not-rusted metal. Instead of rust neutralizers you should just use a regular primer and then regular paint.
Thanks for the message Spiros. You're right. The brand of paint I've recommended comes as a rust neutralizer, however the stuff I'm using is actually a high quality DTM (Direct to Metal) paint. It is supposed to have high ratings as a rust preventative. However, if you are starting with clean metal, you can use any DTM paint without the need for a primer.
Dude where are you located and if close enough to me can I just come to you & pay you to install mine? I like your detail work and don’t trust myself to do as good a job. 👍🏻
Hi Kitchy! So sorry I missed your message. I'm sure you've figured it out by now but we are located in Santa Cruz, Ca. If you or anyone needs anything, visit Levityvans.com/hello and fill out our form to make an appointment and get an estimate.
I love solar panels! And yes, I install them. Electrical is a bit of a passion of mine. If you're needing some help with electrical/solar, feel free to reach out directly at contact@levityvans.com. Adventure awaits!
Good stuff! Thank you. Just received my roof vent adapter from Hein at DIYvan.com / Impact Products. Enclosed are instructions which read, "coat the fan flange adapter and onto the roof about 1/2" with brush on bed-liner or Flexseal from the TV guys works well." What are your thoughts on using Flexseal instead of Dicor self leveling lap sealant? Thanks.
Thanks for the comment and question Andrew. I wouldn't recommend using anything but a self leveling sealant for the final seal because you want something that is clean and smooth on the top so it won't catch dust and debris. The cleaner it stays, the longer it will last before needing to be resealed...
Just a thought, given how many of these you probably do, shears would be easier and make less of a mess: www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-5-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Shears-64609.html No fine shavings to worry about, no rattling. Great for straight lines; not great for corrugated sections, but just switch to jigsaw or nippers for that part.
Thanks J.L. I've used something similar called a nibbler but I didn't have as much control. I haven't tried shears though. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the suggestion!
To each their own. I can't endorse that though. What specifically did you use? I'm always curious. Will you post a link? Also, adhesive does have a shelf life and only time will tell. Screws are much more failsafe.
I hope you don't mind but I added your video to my post on the Ford Transit forum. www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/2020-awd-transit-van-build-with-8020.81650/post-1062340
Doesn't make sense to me, please explain why? I would think you only need it for final install and are you saying it should be put on, screwed in then take off?
I looked at many, many fan install videos before getting the courage to cut a hole in my new Nissan NV2500 and thank God I saw this the night before - the BEST video tutorial ever! We followed your video instructions today and all worked flawlessly. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Hi Annehm! Thanks for the compliment! I'm so happy you found the video helpful. Great job on your install!
This is one of the best DIY van tutorials I've seen yet. Appreciated the humor - especially the ram. Looking forward to installing my fan !
Hey WexPower! Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad you enjoyed it. We have fun making them!
This is one of the best support videos ever!! It made this install easy and painless. I cut that whole with no nervousness and followed many of the helpful Pro tips. Thank you for sharing your best practices.
Thanks for the comment Richard! Glad it helped you out!
“You are the man”,best video I’ve seen on how to install this fan
Thanks David! Glad you found it useful. Happy installing 😀
With so many of these install videos, I can't believe how many are terrible. Yours was the one I used for my 2021 Transit. Now I just need to wire it up!
That's great to hear! I'm happy you found it helpful :-) On a transit, you can wire it up to the customer connection point but it really wants to have an alternate battery. The CCP only stays live for 30 minutes to an hour and also depends on the state of charge of your battery. If you look up "customer connection point transit" you'll find some useful information about it. Stay cool 😎
Followed this walk-through today and got my fan installed! 3M window-weld is a friggin mess to clean off of things! Now I know!
Congrats on your install! Yes, window weld is super messy! Mineral spirits helps. I'm sure there's other more potent solvents but mineral spirits has worked great for me in the past.
Well done boss. glad to see a pro post a video on this, instead of someone who has only done it once.
Thanks Craig. Hope it helped you out!
That's my VAN!!!! I love it!!! You did such a great job Jimmy. Every time i open or close my vent I'm gonna see the ram talking now HA! I look forward to many more projects with you. You da best!
Peace out.
So cool Meli Mel
@@kaydamewood545 Thanks Kay!! I'm so stoked.
Chill vibe, professional installation - thanks Jimmy and Levity Vans! I will use your approach when installing my own fan later this month.
Thanks for the comment! Let us know how it goes!
Almost spat my coffee out. Bring the ram back!
Love this. So clear and making an update in title shows you've prior experience.
I found when I pryed up the inner loose sheet metal and stretched tape under, across the corners for support along with upper tape the metal was way more stable.
Now I'm guessing cure time, temp, humidity for window weld. :]
Thanks for the compliment! I have SO MUCH experience now... Yes, good call on taping the corners. I'm sure that felt great. Nice job! How did the install turn out?
One trick I've found to avoid flapping/rattling is to cut almost to the corner but not quite.
Then when you have it all 99% cut you just come back and cut the last 1/8th inch at each corner.
It's a little hard to get right depending on what material you are doing though
That's a great tip! Thanks for sharing, we'll definitely give that a try!
Best install video that I've seen! Thank you!
Sure thing! Glad we could help 😊
Great info.and video! I am about to put a front and rear fan in my Promaster. I was not aware of the adapter plate availability. I will be ordering off the links on video. Hopefully you get a bump. I could not locate one of those shoulder goats however! Also Lauren H. You can never have enough lap sealant. Lol.
Oh my goodness! You made my morning! Those goats are hard to come by. Probably because of the pandemic. They've been on backorder for months now. Glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful! Also, I don't get anything for recommending impact 3d to people but if you want to tell them who referred you, I'd love that. Thanks!
The goat with the SFX for me!!!!! 😂😂😂
Glad you liked it! We like to have fun around here 🤪
I was dying 😂
cheers and thanks for the video! Fan is the next step in my motovan and liked how you included little wiring in it. Most just stop at the fan and end the video haha no solar yet and wanting to piggy back off the LED lighting atm
Hey Connor. Just seeing this post. I hope your install went well and everything has worked out. I just read this and gulped in fear about piggybacking off your LED wiring. I hope you chose an alternative route and wired it directly to a house battery or at least to a cigarette lighter plug. I fear that wires going to LED lights would fail and melt or catch fire. Unless you used larger gauge wire and fused it properly...
@@LevityVans hahaha NOT TO WORRY! I appreciate you getting back to me. I ended up going with an external battery bank and NOT to my car battery as in my question.
Nice. Good for you!
Mate, have watched the whole WWW.
This video was boss, did take template off to cut. Other than that...
Thanks mate, ever up in Tahoe give me a shout, I owe you a beer or three 🍻🍻🍻
Haha, we may have to take you up on that! So stoked the video helped you out. Happy Adventuring! 🤙🏼
@@LevityVans anytime honestly, Good beer at Alibis Incline Village 🍻🍻
I really appreciate your video and thanks for taking the time to produce it!! I just got my fan for my Transit build yesterday and wasn't sure if I need that extra gasket but yesterday I took a closer look at the install and realized it's a must. I was watching a lot of videos and people weren't using it on their install. Thanks for the tip on securing it and then cutting around it. That's a great tip!!
Thanks for the appreciation bjbhehir! I'm happy it helped you!
@@LevityVans I just watched your video again and I'm going to start my fan install shortly!! I installed 2 back door windows yesterday that came out great but this will be my first hole in the roof!! Thanks for all your help!!
@@bjbhehir Measure 3 times! Send it!
@@LevityVans Everything went great till I got the tube of Lap Sealant opened up and I realized I ordered the wrong type, I just ordered the Self Leveling type from your page. I framed out the bottom and tied the framing into my ceiling furring strips, that things as solid as a rock!! I also noticed the roof was a lot more solid after I framed it out. Thanks for all the help!!
@@bjbhehir Glad it went well! Bummer about the lap sealant. I'm not sure where you live but, if you're in Santa Cruz or close by, I'm happy to supply some sealant for you so you don't have to wait for it. I almost always go through a little more than one tube too... In case you ordered one and need extra.
Great video!! On your makita caulk gun. What number on the dial do you use when you put on the black 3m and the self leveler. Also how big of a cut on the tip of caulk tube do you do on the self leveler?
Hi Kevin! Sorry for the delay. I heat up the 3m with a heat gun first which helps it come out easier. Then I put my gun on 2. I cut the tip of the 3m at a very big angle to cover the whole piece with one go. On the self leveling lap sealant, I cut a hole about 3/4" from the tip. I heat that stuff up as well which helps it lay down quicker. You've probably already installed yours by now. If so, how did it go?
at 4:43 you have a black cover running along the top of your van.. is that covering your side air bags? I'm trying to get ideas on how to cover ours and saw that.. thanks!
Thanks for the comment Kaile. This is a cargo van so it doesn't have rear airbags. The black plastic you see is a housing for all the wires that run from the front to the rear. I'm not sure how I would recommend covering the airbags since that is a safety thing... I don't think I would recommend it. Good luck!
I just followed along your video while installing my fan. THANK YOU. Question - those 4 screws that attach the fan…they don’t need sealant or anything to keep them from shaking out on washboard roads? I feel like I’m missing something without a nut or anything to keep them there.
... Thinking the same thing. Those 4 screws are only holding plastic to plastic.
. Jeff .
Thank for the awesome tutorial, Black is positive!
Sure thing!
Jimmy, you're my hero!!! This is exactly the video I needed before making the dreaded hole in my perfectly good van roof! a couple questions:
1. What length/size self- tapping screws do you use to screw the black adapter ring to the roof?
2. since this is the first thing I'm installing, how can I test it to make sure it runs? (Nothing is wired for the conversion yet)
THANK YOU AGAIN!
Michelle
Hi DoctorG.
1. I used #8 self tapping screws. This is only temporary and they will be removed before you use the included screws to screw everything down. Be sure not to strip the holes when you screw them down.
2. You can test the van by connecting the black (positive) wire to the positive battery terminal and the white wire to negative. The fan will then have power and you'll be able to test it out.
Great video! I like that you install a little differently than others. It gives even more ideas for fit/waterproofing. Most fan installs stop after the install and don't show how to connect the wires. Do you have any videos showing more about this? We hope to connect our fan to a Jackery, but haven't found any good resources on how to do this. Thanks!!
Hi Andrea, thanks for the message. If you'd like to connect it to a Jackery, I would wire it to something like this: www.amazon.com/Carviya-Cigarette-Lighter-Inverter-Electric/dp/B01HGO2OIS/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=dc+plug+cigarette&qid=1591721913&sr=8-8
16 gauge is the smallest wire you'll want to use for the fan.
Great informative install video thanks for sharing the important tips
howdy! follow up from a previous comment -- what did you run the wiring to? Did you piggyback off existing wiring (LEDs) or did you run automotive/electrical wiring from the van to a connector with fuse relay etc to a battery source?
Thanks for the comment. Definitely don't piggy back off of existing wiring unless you know for sure that the wiring and fuse will handle it. I still don't recommend it however. LEDs have a very low amp draw and the fan, although it's not a huge draw, it's still a larger draw and if sharing power with LEDs, it could cause some melting wires or even a fire. It's best to go from the fan directly to your fuse block that is connected to your house battery or another battery source that is not your vehicles starter battery. Such as a goal zero. Make sure you use at least 16awg wire and a 10amp fuse is ideal. A 15 amp fuse is suitable.
Levity Vans awesome! Thank you tons for the swift reply! Initially was planning on piggybacking but the more I’ve watched videos the more I realized many ran it to a diff source. Thank you tons for the insight!
Sure thing!
Great update! Thank you for covering all the details.
Sure thing! Hope it helped 😀
Best video I've seen on this topic. Thank you!
Thanks Jason! Glad you enjoyed!
My 2000 Chevy Astro has ridges on the roof. Does that company make an adapter for it? That would really help.
I don't believe so. However, you can stack up butyl tape to accomplish something similar. It's just not as rigid. Be sure not to crank the screws down too tight when installing over a thick area of butyl tape.
*what direction do you put the fan*
The part that opens goes to the rear. If you ever drive with the fan open and you had it mounted any other direction, the wind could rip the lid off...
Awesome video, thanks for posting! I need to know: around the 12 minute mark you are talking about wires and are holding a car adapter with wires that end in ring terminals. Where did you get it? Did you make it? Order it? I'd like to power my fan with the car adapter until my electrical system is complete. Thanks again!
Hey Austin. So sorry I didn't get back to you about the adapter. I'm sure you've figured it out by now but I purchased the cigarette lighter plug from west marine and wired it up and added my own ring terminals.
Yo Jimmy ! I am thinking about placing my fan in the same panel you did here (2nd from the back). However, it seems most people do it in the panel furthest back or forward, avoiding the middle. Just wondering... what was your reason for putting it in this one ? Thanks
Hey Wex. Thanks for the comment. I do like to leave either the front or the back free for a solar panel. The second panel back still leaves room to achieve this while also having the fan above the bed area. My favorite area to install the fan is toward the front. That way you can have the fan on exhaust mode with a window open near your platform bed. This clears the hot air from the ceiling, pulls fresh air in from over your feet or head and also gives your full van cross ventilation. I hope this helps. Happy hole cutting!
@@LevityVans Last question before I make the cut ! Would this change if you had a van with no windows in it? Would you put it more towards the back to pull air in from the front windows ? Also, my van doesn't have windows, but it's not too late to change that...
I'd highly recommend having the vent fan in the front and small vented windows in the rear... However, if you don't put any windows in, then yes, the rear location is probably more ideal. I still highly recommend the 1st option!
Thanks for the great instructions! Is there a reason why you don't use a wooden frame inside under the fan, like I see a lot of other builders do?
Thanks for the comment. No reason. I just haven't seen the need. When everything is screwed down these fans feel really solid. Especially if you use a vent fan adapter glued to the roof. Then you are essentially doing the same thing a wooden frame would do.
Thank you for the good video on the install. I took some notes. Thanks again.
Absolutely! Glad you benefited from it. Thanks for the message!
Hey great video thank you it’s helped me but it’s giving me questions on how important this adaptor is. I have an a series van up in Canada and with exchange and shipping the adaptor is over $200 more than I paid for the fan and it will take two months to get to me. I guess my questions revolve around what do you think are my other options.? Or do I just need to suck it up buttercup get off my wallet? Appreciate your advice.
Hi Kitchy. Thanks for the question. You can build up your butyl tape to make a flat surface to mount your fan. I didn't always use the adapters but they make for a cleaner and easier install. I definitely recommend it but I think I would keep sitting on my wallet for a $200 adapter.
Possibly a stupid question but what screws are you using for installing the adapter/mounting plate? This is the best vent install video I’ve seen!
Hey Ray! Thanks for the question. Not a stupid one at all. I may have not explained that clearly. I used self tapping screws through the fan base plate and the black adapter ring just to have the holes pre-drilled when it was ready to glue. Be sure to use an appropriate sized screw or pre-drill with the appropriate size drill. So there process is: dry fit the adapter plate with base plate on top, pre-drill all holes or screw down with self tapping screws, remove everything, prep fan base with butyl tape, glue down black adapter with 3m window weld, place vent fan base on top of adapter, screw down with supplied stainless steel screws. I usually give the window weld at least 10 minutes to cure before I add the self leveling lap sealant to the fan base, adapter and any squeeze out of window weld. Hope that helps. Good luck on your install!
do you give the windo weld time to cure before you put on the lap sealant? great video thanks.
I don't think it's necessary. The window weld gets fairly firm in a short amount of time unless it's very hot where you are installing. Thanks for the compliment!
Okay I just finished installing my roof fan.
Couple things I'd pass on.
Not sure how great of an idea it is to use the 3D printed adapter as a guide.
I ended up with a lot of tiny pieces of metal embedded in mine. I got most of it out but not all.
If I did it again I'd put blue masking tape on both sides.
If you are gonna use the shipping box to catch debris as you cut, use shipping tape or duct tape.
The vibration of sawing and drilling made mine fall down at the very last minute, right before I mounted the actual fan.
And I used a ton of masking tape.
... Good point. For others, use Gorilla tape (like he did) AND a stiff leg from the van floor to the underside of the box.
Wood dow, PVC pipe, broom handle, stick out of the woods, have someone (with ear plugs) hold the box, etc.
... Jeff ...
The template looks amazing but their shipping and handling is too slow. Did your previous builds that don't use the adapter leak eventually? I know this is a bit sad, as I would always prefer to do things the best way possible, but I just can't wait 15+ days to get this fan installed, I even purchased the fan locally to get moving quick. My race against winter is on. If the old-school methods proved to be sound enough, I'll rely on them.
Hey Nomad Trails! You can definitely do it without the adapter and not worry about leakage. Just build up the areas around the fan mounting plate with multiple layers of butyl tape. Try to get it as flat as possible but it will also flatten as you screw it down. The adapter plate is great but not imperative. Good luck on your install and let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
What size and kind of self taping screws are you using?
We are using #8 modified truss head self tapping screws but any #8 should work. 1" screws work on most installs but some Vans, like Transits, may require longer screws in some areas.
So did you replace the screws it came with with self tapping screws? If so, can you tell me what size/kind you used? Thanks!
... 6:40 he used the self tapping to be able to drill through the roof tin.
Although he didn't mention it, the stainless steel screws (that are supplied in the fan kit I believe) must not be self tapping.
at 9:00 the video shows the SS screws.
... Whatever an installer does, BE SURE the self tapping screws, bit and shank, ARE NOT larger than the stainless steel screws that will be used in the final attachment.
Jeff
How far does the fan lid in inches hang past the 14 1\8 inch opening on back on top ext. ? I have roof rack and don't know if it will hit racks when fan is closed ?
Are the factory screws still sufficient with the added thickness from the adapter?
Sorry I missed your comment. I've been so swamped! You sometimes need to get longer screws for the thick areas of the adapter. However, if you use window weld between the roof and adapter as well as between the adapter and the mounting piece, you probably don't even need to screw it down because that stuff is so strong. This is obviously at your own risk and screwing it is definitely the failsafe was to install it.
do you really need that much lap sealant going over the mounting piece? Is it not enough to just get the perimeter and the screw holes?
Thanks for the comment Lauren. It is not necessary to put on as much as I do. However, my technique causes a declining slope from the inner most part of the ring. This will prevent water from sitting on the sealant and making it wear faster. For the extra few bucks, I feel it will make it last year's longer. I've also repaired leaking fans that had a minimal amount of sealant on them. I just don't want to repair any of my own installs 😁
Wow, great video, I hope to install my two fans this weekend on my Promaster and this is a huge help. Do you ever screw the flange thru the roof into wood blocks below such that you have nailers to attach the ceiling afterwards (around the fan perimeter)?
Thanks David! I have done that before, however, the ceiling is often secured close to the fan and extra attachments are usually unnecessary. Glad you enjoyed the video. Have fun on the installs!
I like the way u work....keep it up. 👍🏼
Thanks Leatherkid01!
Wow, that could go underwater and wouldn't leak!
You know it!
In one of the comments you said that an interior frame is unnecessary as the exterior adapter essentially serves that purpose. If you didn’t have the adapter and just used butyl tape to build up a level surface (like you suggested in another comment) would you feel the need for interior framing? Thank you ❤
Hi Jordan! Thanks for the message. I strongly recommend the adapter in any vehicle that does not have a flat roof. We produce our own for our builds but you can purchase them at DIYVAN.com. If you use butyl tape alone and an interior brace, it will likely warp the ceiling and bend the metal. It will also bend the plastic mounting piece which will prevent the fan from ceiling correctly. Hope this helps!
@@LevityVans you’ve convinced me. It’s just a bit harder for us Canadians to swallow lol
I saw you heating up two tubes of lap sealant. Did you need both for the job or just one?
... See 1:50 ... 1 and a half tubes.
.
I really appreciate you posting this as it will be used as a tutorial for installing my own fans. Do you have any additional recommendations on fan placement? I am planning on installing two Maxx Air Deluxe fans on a Ram Promaster 3500 Ext and was wondering if it's best to place the front fan in the second opening (as opposed to the first) to reduce noise/drag?
I'm glad you found the video helpful! In my humble opinion, I think you only need one vent fan unless you plan to use both fans in the same direction. There are a lot of recommendations out there for installing two fans so you can have one suck and the other blow. This circulates the air along the roof of the van. My recommendation is to install one fan near your cooking area and use vented windows in your sleeping area. When you have the fan in exhaust mode and one window open, it sucks in so much fresh air! Plus, this gives you more available roof space for solar and other storage. As far as placement goes, if you put it right in front, there will be some drag but also a lot of wind noise. The second opening works well though. The ProMaster is also better about the audible wind noise since most have the shelf above the cockpit so you don't hear things strait through the sheet metal ceiling... Thanks for posting and good luck with your build. Adventure Awaits!
@@LevityVans Excellent recommendations and much appreciated!
@@LevityVans I don’t have any windows or any plans for windows so I thought I would get the second fan to serve the same purpose as a vented window. Unless there’s a cheaper option for a covered roof vent I’m not sure what the other alternative is. Love this video by the way.
Some questions for you: So why not use tin snips rather than a messy jigsaw? What the heck does “self-leveling” sealer mean? What special property are we talking about here? Why should I use all of those specialty sealants when Maxxair in their instructions recommend G.E. Silicone II? And a final question, do I need to use butyl tape or can I use 3M VHB tape? Thanks for your reply!
Thanks for the message John. You can use tin snips. I like using a jig saw. Let us all know how it goes. Maybe we will all change our method :-) Self leveling is exactly what it sounds like. If you run a bead of silicon, it stays as a bead. If you run a bead of self leveling lap sealant, it will level itself out and look smooth. I wouldn't say that Maxxair recommends G.E. Silicone II. Their documentation reads, "Silicone Sealants such as G.E. Silicone II (nonpaintable) used for outdoor applications have proven to be suitable for this installation. So, use it if you’d like. It is “suitable.”
My recommendations are purely based on installing 100’s of vent fans. As far as using VHB tape or butyl tape, I like to use 3M Window Weld for both the fan adapter as well as the vent fan mounting plate. Then cover everything with lap sealant. This has never failed in proving a great seal. You can also use bubble gum but it has to be the OG stuff. JK. I don’t trust using just VHB tape but I’ve heard of people doing it. I’m not going to take that route on my customers' vans though. Good luck on your install!
@@LevityVans Jimmy, In your video, you show using butyl tape between the fan mounting plate and the adaptor, not Window weld. Is this an update?
Hi David G. Thanks for the question and sorry for the late reply. I mentioned it in a comment somewhere that I started using 3M Window Weld in place of Butyl tape. I need to update the description. I just think it's easier and over there long term, more effective...
P sure I've seen this one video 100 times. Still terrified of making that first cut. lol
You got this Claudia! Measure a lot! Cut once 😁
length of self tapping screws?
Go Rosanna. Sorry for the long delay. I use 1" but you can use longer ones too. Just make sure they aren't bigger than #8.
Random question but I am trying to set up my van. What do people connect their 12V DC RV roof fan/vent to if they have a solar system in their van??? From what I have seen inverters only have AC outlets?? am I missing something??? Thanks
Hey Adam. Sorry I missed your question months ago. You need to connect the leads to the battery that your solar panel is charging. Electrical is a whole nother ball game. I do have electrical kits and schematics available to purchase. If interested, fill out the DIYer form at Levityvans.com/hello to get help with a system designed for your needs. Cheers
Excellent video! Thanks
do you have any interest in installing a max air in my ford expedition?
Hi Rich. I'm happy to install a fan in your explorer, however it's not my specialty and it would be hard to give you an exact estimate. I'd need to remove your headliner before cutting the hole and since I've never done that in yours, I wouldn't know how long that would take. Feel free to reach out to me via my website to discuss further. Levityvans.com. Click the link at top that says tell us about your project and then click the appropriate link to fill out a form and request an estimate. Thanks for watching our video!
Rust neutralizers in order to do their job, they have to be applied on rusted surfaces. If there is no rust, there is no effect. Same goes for all the paints that container rust neutralizers, like hammerite, rest-oleum etc. They are meant to be used directly on rusted surfaces. They do nothing more than a regular paint when they are applied on not-rusted metal. Instead of rust neutralizers you should just use a regular primer and then regular paint.
Thanks for the message Spiros. You're right. The brand of paint I've recommended comes as a rust neutralizer, however the stuff I'm using is actually a high quality DTM (Direct to Metal) paint. It is supposed to have high ratings as a rust preventative. However, if you are starting with clean metal, you can use any DTM paint without the need for a primer.
Dude where are you located and if close enough to me can I just come to you & pay you to install mine? I like your detail work and don’t trust myself to do as good a job. 👍🏻
Hi Kitchy! So sorry I missed your message. I'm sure you've figured it out by now but we are located in Santa Cruz, Ca. If you or anyone needs anything, visit Levityvans.com/hello and fill out our form to make an appointment and get an estimate.
Great content.
Thanks!
is it possible to put a maxxair fan on an NV 200 Nissan
Do you do solar panels?
Not yet..... coming in the near future.
oh sorry... you're asking Jimmy LOL
I love solar panels! And yes, I install them. Electrical is a bit of a passion of mine. If you're needing some help with electrical/solar, feel free to reach out directly at contact@levityvans.com. Adventure awaits!
Good stuff! Thank you. Just received my roof vent adapter from Hein at DIYvan.com / Impact Products. Enclosed are instructions which read, "coat the fan flange adapter and onto the roof about 1/2" with brush on bed-liner or Flexseal from the TV guys works well." What are your thoughts on using Flexseal instead of Dicor self leveling lap sealant? Thanks.
Thanks for the comment and question Andrew. I wouldn't recommend using anything but a self leveling sealant for the final seal because you want something that is clean and smooth on the top so it won't catch dust and debris. The cleaner it stays, the longer it will last before needing to be resealed...
Just a thought, given how many of these you probably do, shears would be easier and make less of a mess: www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-5-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Shears-64609.html
No fine shavings to worry about, no rattling.
Great for straight lines; not great for corrugated sections, but just switch to jigsaw or nippers for that part.
Thanks J.L. I've used something similar called a nibbler but I didn't have as much control. I haven't tried shears though. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the suggestion!
a battery-powered caulking gun 'cause you squeeze A LOT of caulk ! LOL !!
🤪
You could have used VHB tape and no screws. No gooey mess. 😬
Thanks for the comment, and, I hope you're joking!
@@LevityVans no joke. If I'm ever in Santa Cruz I'll stop by and show you, or pull in front of you on the freeway going 80 mph.😁
To each their own. I can't endorse that though. What specifically did you use? I'm always curious. Will you post a link? Also, adhesive does have a shelf life and only time will tell. Screws are much more failsafe.
@@LevityVans www.3m.com/3M/en_US/vhb-tapes-us/
Just recommended you on the Ford transit forum.
www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/webasto-heater-installer-bay-area.78866/#post-1076539
Thank you so much! Sorry I'm just seeing this. I just replied on the Transit forum. Appreciate the recommendation!
I hope you don't mind but I added your video to my post on the Ford Transit forum.
www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/2020-awd-transit-van-build-with-8020.81650/post-1062340
I don't mind at all. I love to share the love! Thanks!
uh should've put butyl tape before screwing it in the first time
Doesn't make sense to me, please explain why? I would think you only need it for final install and are you saying it should be put on, screwed in then take off?
This guy caulks
You know it!
What size are the self tapping screws you are using?