1987 Dodge Raider sitting Outside for over 15 years, Will It Run?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- I am not sure when the last time this little SUV ever ran or drove, but going off the mileage that's on it and the oil change sticker on the door it could be up to 26 years, but talking to the previous owner it sounds like 12-15 years is more likely. Either way, the engine was stuck, the compression is low, can we bring it back from the dead on a shoestring budget?
Thank you for this intro to the Raider! Husband and I enjoyed the video and I'll keep looking for my new-to-me rig😊
They are very interesting little rigs, very under appreciated, and fun to drive. I hope you find one (montero or raider)
That's awesome you got it running. These Raiders/Monteros are getting sought after with the sudden popularity of older Japanese SUVs. We saved a 89 LWB Montero last year that sat for 11 years that I am gathering parts and start rebuilding and restoring myself.
Great video!
Thanks! I found it nearly rust free in Ohio(which is very rare). Got it going, had some fun driving it and sold it to a collector in WV
@@Foxcanfixit That's great....it's nice seeing these saved. Good to know a collector has it and hopefully continues to restore it.
I got one for free, blown head gasket. Rust free truck.
I now own my familys old 87 raider 4cyl. Been in the garage for nearly 20 years. Needed a timing chain the last i knew so thats where im going to start. My dad past last year and my memories are of him driving it. He loved the little raider and was all about the low-range capabilities of these things. Its in great shape but has beem sitting. Hopefully i can bring her back to life. Just did a head gasket job on my 06 4runner so it shouldnt be much more involved than that. Ill update with more info later.
The raider/montero ram50/mighty max are greatly under appreciated. Parts are hard to come by but usually you can get them. Timing chain on these is labor intensive but not complicated if you can do a head gasket you can do it
Been a long time since I seen one of those running around, Nice save!
Thanks, learned new stuff.
Glad to hear it!
Nice work brother, 👍
I’m going to say I’m more thinking that you have rust on the valve and valve seat. Any time I’ve ever seen stuck rings, they stayed stuck until I pulled them out and replaced them. This engine will improve with more run time for sure.
Could be valve seats and guides, moisture in there could get into anything.
@@Foxcanfixit especially with the drain plug out
im watching 💜💪
Hell yeah. Sounds great 👍 good job
Thanks! The video was a little longer than normal, but 🤷♂️ what a ya gonna do
Ahh, the G54B with a Weber. I have its twin out in the yard, also an 87 auto with a Weber, but a 32/36. I also have my 87 with a G54BT from an 88 Starion/Conquest auto here on the lift in my garage. I've owned at least one of these trucks for over 20 years. They're crude IFS, basic 4WD but tough as nails body on frame platforms that can hang with any equally equipped Jeep if you know how to drive it off road. And darn it, they're just fun. They were sold in the states in 2 dr form from 83 to 90 and in 88, I believe, the 3.0 v-6 became available, which is marginally better and has rear coil springs instead of leafs. Dodge Raider = Mitsubishi Montero. Big following on the book of faces. Hope to see more of this, and, get that radiator rodded out!
Hey JohnnyB, I’ve got a rattle at the front at idle especially when hot, it’s not any accessory bearings, I don’t think it’s preignition, timing chain tensioner going bad?
@@Foxcanfixit is the noise apparent at idle or under load only? If it's under load, you could try to de-carbonize the engine by fast idling it and drizzling water into the carb or run a tank of premium to see if the noise goes away in the circumstances you are hearing it. It's no fun at all to get to the timing chain tensioner on the G54B as the front cover has to come off (even to look at it) which means either the head or the oil pan (or both) need to come off. It's tensioned by oil pressure pushing on a shoe pushed out from the oil pump. There's little utility in shimming the plunger to fix the issue (unless you want higher oil pressure overall) as you're already down to the components that should be replaced anyway: oil pump, plunger/shoe and timing chain/gears. And if you still have balance shafts, it's even less fun, so have a manual handy.
@@JohnnyBfromPeoria it’s mostly at idle when warmed up. I don’t think it’s ever bee apart, so it will still have the silencer shafts. When I do it should I eliminate the silencer shafts when it’s apart? If so is there a good reference for doing that?
@@Foxcanfixit personally, I would not remove them permanently. They cancel second-order vibration and no amount of balancing can do that. Mitsu sold that tech to other automakers, namely Porsche, for use in their big four cylinder engines. I would replace the chain and guides and remove/replace the plain bearings in the block for the shafts. If you eliminate the balance shafts, instructions are included with the kit. If you leave them in, use the factory service manual to get them set up correctly. Since the noise is primarily at idle, I think you've got an accurate diagnosis, particularly because you said 'warm engine.'
@@JohnnyBfromPeoria got it. Do the chains and tensioners, leave the balance shafts in.