etrailer | Hopkins Trailer Break-Away Kit Installation

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Full transcript: www.etrailer.com/tv-install-h...
Today on our trailer we're going to be installing the Hopkins Trailer Break-Away Kit with a charger, part number HM20001. We're going to mount the battery box here to the trailer jack itself using the U-bolts and the other supplied hardware. Go ahead and turn the battery box around like this. We'll then take a U-bolt, slide it into position, and take a flat washer, put that in place, then put a nylon lock nut. Go ahead and repeat that for the other side of the U-bolt. We'll then go ahead and raise the battery box up just a little bit so we can install the lower U-bolt. Go ahead and put our flat washers on and again, our nylon lock nuts. Now we'll go ahead and tighten down the nuts on our U-bolts.
We need to kind of hold the battery box as we tighten them down and you want to alternate between the two sides of the U-bolt as you're tightening things down. As you can see here now, our battery box is nice and secured to the trailer jack itself. Next we're going to route our three wires here, there's a blue, a black and a white. We're going to go ahead and drill a hole here through this plate in the trailer so we can route these three wires down underneath. Next we're going to put a little bit of quarter-inch wire loom, part number 7509-10, on our three wires here as we route it through the hole we just drilled. Go ahead and put a little bit of electrical tape here on the wires and wire loom to keep it in place. Now we're ready to go underneath the trailer here to make our other connections. We're going to go ahead and use a couple of zip ties to help secure some of the wire, as well.
Go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie to clean up our look. Go ahead and trim our white wire down to length and then we'll add our ring terminal to it. Strip a little wire back, put our ring terminal on and we'll crimp it down. Then we'll 00:02:31 need to undo this ground real quick so we can add our ground in place. Next we're going to go ahead and add a little bit more wire here to our black wire. We'll do this just using a heat-shrink-style butt connector.
Both of our wires stripped back, we'll go ahead and add our butt connector in and we'll crimp it down. Go ahead and heat-seal off our butt connector, either using a cigarette lighter or a heat gun, heat gun is preferred. We'll go ahead and take our black wire and we'll route it over here to the junction box. Go ahead and trim our wire down a little bit to the correct length. We're going to feed it in with the other wires here through this grommet here on the end. We've got to loosen up the relief piece here that keeps the wires tight.
There's two screws in this box that hold that in place. Now we're going to need to add a ring terminal here to the end of our wire. Go ahead and crimp it down then. Then we'll be adding it in on this box to the charge circuit, which is this one right here on this box. Now that we have that one added in, next we're going to need to go ahead and tie in our break-away switch itself, and we're going to need to mount this break-away switch here to the tongue on the trailer. Going to go ahead and drill a hole. Now it will line up here and our two wires, we're actually going to use one of these existing holes and feed our two wires through. I'm going to go ahead and put a little electrical tape where the wires will go through to protect them, so they don't get messed up. Feed both of our wires through here. Go ahead and take our screw here. We'll go on the under side and put a nut on the back side of the screw. Before we make the rest of our connections, I'm going to go ahead and plug the break-away cable in here to the break-away switch. Simply line it up, push it all the way in place. Then just kind of wrap the excess cable around our trailer jack for now, just to keep it out of the way. Now we're going to go ahead and connect our blue wire here off the break-away switch to the blue wire coming off of the battery box. Go ahead and get our length and cut it down and strip our wire back. Add our butt connector in and crimp it down. Now for the black wire, we're going to have to again add a piece of extra wire. This is the one over here to our junction box where we'll tie it in with brake circuit. Go ahead and add our extension of black wire in to the black wire. Do that by stripping back both ends of the wire and then adding in a butt connector. With our butt connectors crimped down, we'll go ahead and seal them up using a heat source, either a cigarette lighter or a heat gu

[@larrysepicmovies5044]

You sure made that look easy.

[@jackparkin9849]

I'll go ahead and do this. .Looks pretty easy !

[@etrailer]

Good deal, let us know how it goes!
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Breakaway-Kit/Hopkins/HM20001.html

[@jimthacker1732]

Junction box explanation would help emmensly. Just sayn......

[@bkambooboo]

Why would you not use grommets for the wires going through metal?

[@MrBlake-cz4km]

Is it required to have a breakaway kit on a livestock trailer, because I have a break away kit in it but I don't have a battery in it

[@jmcrapo32]

my battery box only has a black and a white wire, no blue.

[@emmajones112]

Can you install this on a 4way/without a junction box?

[@etrailer]

Yes, you can connect the wires directly to the brake wires on the trailer. The junction box will help greatly with routing and organizing the wires. This biggest help that it will be if you need to replace a wire if it gets damaged. You can just replace the one single wire.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Breakaway-Kit/Hopkins/HM20001.html