A couple of things to note: The 2.2K resistor goes in jumper link 9289, not 9789 It's also been reported that a jumper at 9281 (next to TS405) needs to be added. Mine already had a jumper installed here but double check yours
I attempted the mod myself on my 1084P. It was a total success! Thank you for this excellent video! I can confirm mine had the 9281 jumper bridge connected aready, too.
Thank you for demonstrating how a CRT builds a charge back up after the EHT is discharged and disconnected. It is a big high voltage capacitor after all. If you don't keep it shorted it is going to pick up charge just from static in the environment and bite you!
My favourite thing about SCART (short for “Schrödinger's CRT”) is how the plug only goes in if you are looking directly at the socket. Like you know how USB (A) goes in on the third try but even more annoying because you also have to get around the back of your telly. Even my ZX Spectrum looks terrific over RGB though so on balance I reckon it’s just about worth it!
I didn't know Australia used SCART like Europe. I guess the states was one of the few countries that didn't use it. I'd be interested in the adjustment video. Just to see how you go about doing it. One thing you might want to invest in if you are going to be working around live voltage is some electricians gloves. Mine at work are from klein and fit pretty snug, so they aren't very bulky. They have saved me from getting a 480V zap. So well worth the 20 dollar investment.
We didn't really. Some 1084s and maybe a few other computer monitors had it but that's about it. SCART was practically unheard of here until the early 2000s when it started appearing on some consumer sets and Foxtel (cable tv) boxes. Yeah I'd like to do a video on calibration, just want to make sure I give the right safety warnings beforehand. I do have some gloves, they're rated up to 25kV AC/40kV DC and smell like rubbery bacon. Problem is they're too thick to get in there and adjust the convergence rings with any degree of accuracy
Interestingly my 1084S works with just installing the Scart connector and the jumper(s). Moving the transistor, and adding cap and resistors results in a picture similar to yours before you made those mods. Keeping the transistor in place and not adding the other components has a very nice picture from my A500 PAL. Thanks for some great videos!
That is very interesting. I'm curious if you tried it with anything other than the A500? I did test it with a bunch of other systems and everything worked as it should, mind you the A500 was not one of those, but it did work with other systems that output csync. I'm thinking that 2.2K resistor may be too high for the A500 sync...EDIT: I just checked with the owner and it does work fine with his A500, so there must be something else going on. I might pin your comment and see if anyone else has similar issues - if you do please reply to this comment
@@TheRetroChannel I only checked with the A500 through Scart. Using a jumper or a 2.2K resistor is about the same in terms of picture quality. I had originally done as in ypur previous video and that worked perfectly. When i then moved TS406 to the TS405 position the picture became out of synch. Moving it back (and reversing the cap and two resistors) returned it to working and in synch. Otherwise everything in my 1084S looks exactly like yours in this video. I should perhaps note that i live in the US, but my A500 is European and the 1084S i Australian (quite happy to have a PAL one in the US)
Hmm, thanks for letting me know. I'm not sure why it doesn't work on yours, but I guess if it works without the mod then it doesn't matter. There's so many different varieties that Philips put out that I guess there's bound to be some subtle differences in the circuit somewhere
@@TheRetroChannel Great video tutorial ! I just went through the whole process and successfully modded my 1084S-P. Thankfully, I saw @markhindsbo7876 comment before finishing the mod, and decided to try his method just in case (less hassle than having to revert back) So after soldering in the SCART connector and rerouting the audio cables, I just added a plain jumper in 9289, plugged in my Super Famicom and boom ! perfect picture right away ! Im immensely happy with the results, my MiSTer runs great on it and has found its ultimate display. One thing I noticed is that the image is a bit blurry when I power the monitor on but it progressively sharpens after a couple of mn of warming up. Is that an expected behaviour ? (I dont have any past experience with that monitor) or could it be a sign of caps failing ? I have a whole replacement cap set but haven't got to replacing them yet. Anyhoo, huge thanks to you both for your valuable contributions and knowledge. Can't wait for a video on adjusting the convergence :D
IIRC I used my 1084S (using the scart cable) and hook up to video machine so I could watch movies on it. I never tried any consoles connected to it, as I had none :) But it was a really good image on it compared to the awful "analog" TV's I was used to back in the 80s and early 90s. I still have my 1084S. It had to get service once, but it's been working fine.... Fingers crossed and hope it will continue to work for many more years.
Nice video. I didn't realize this one was already out when I watched your last video and asked you the SCART questions about my A1200 using 6-pin RGB input Vs SCART input.
I'll do something eventually. Unlike the majority of my videos, that one will require a bit of planning. Just so I can make sure I explain everything as best I can so people don't get hurt, or at least if they do, then they can't say I didn't warn them ;-)
I wish SCART had been more common here in NTSC land. Great, concise video. I've enjoyed watching the 1084 series. It really makes me want to replace my 1702...
Hey, a couple of people have reported that a jumper at 9281 (next to TS405) needs to be added. Mine already had a jumper installed here but double check yours, maybe that's why it didn't work?
The 240p test suite runs on a number of consoles. Otherwise I like the digital video essentials DVD. No doubt there's an ISO of it online, but it may be worth looking for an original copy as it came with a colour filter card to accurately calibrate colours
Great video. Do you have a textual documentation source for those modifications? I have an 1084 and its board clearly differs from yours (an S-P if I remember correctly) so having a written reference would help.
Mine does have SCART, but it is really sensitive physically. Reflow the SCART connector? I also have a bit of misconvergens top right, was really curious how to fix that.
I actually have a RGB Scart model (Profex branded). I have my Amiga 1000 hooked up to it. Never tried a console like SNES or Mega Drive/Genesis. Interlace mode on my Amiga is rather flickery with it. Do you think it'll work with a 16 bit Sega/Nintendo console?
Ha, didn't even realise I said the wrong thing after the resistor was in, but yes it should be 9289. Oh dear, I say it like 3 times, I think because it looked like a 7 instead of a 2 on the bottom of the board
@@TheRetroChannel update on my mod it Didn't work. the screen was garbled and kept on rolling.. I had a look at your board and found a wire jumper was missing on my board just above R402.. So i added that jumper to it and presto it works.. Thank you once again for the proper tutorial..
Hi. I did the mod and it worked great. Now I also tried to get image from TTL RGB after the mod. Without success. Any idea does the mod affect the functionality of other ports ot is my source faulty. That might also be the reason
Hi Mate. I just got a weird NTSC model 1084s. It has been modded at some stage to take 240v. But I’m getting black and white through composite. On both PAL and NTSC consoles. The crystal and sticker points that it is ntsc set . Do you know what differences I would need to add the Scart on this set?
Odd that colour is not working with PAL or NTSC. Perhaps there's an issue with the composite and luma/chroma switch or something along those lines. Adding scart should be the same as I showed in the video but I cannot guarantee it will work with an NTSC version
It might, best bet would be to open it up and see if it looks the same. The audio side will obviously be different but just wire pins 2 and 6 on the SCART to the monitors mono audio input
Thank you for the great tutorial! I've modded my 1084S successfully (and also had to add the jumper @AusSonic mentioned) - Strangely, the montior needs around 3 Minutes of "warm up" (only after complete discharge - e.g. over night) since I've modded it - it starts with a thicker red line in the middle which widens after some time and starts to show a picture (garbled in the beginning) which becomes lesser red and more visible after some time. After some minutes the picture widened and stabilized and the colors are good - the monitor can be used normally then. Maybe you've got some hint what might be the cause of this behaviour? As I live in Germany, it's a german model btw...
So the issue only started after you did the mod? I was going to suggest bad caps that needed time to warm up. But if it was working fine up until recently, then perhaps a bad joint? The solder joints on these things are known to go bad and maybe doing the mod has caused one to open up. I'd take a closer look at the board, if your phone has a decent camera you should be able to zoom in and see any bad joints. Pay close attention to the ones around the flyback, and also make sure the neck board is seated firmly and there's no bad joints there. Otherwise perhaps it's an issue with the heater? I think you can measure the heater voltage on pins 4 and 5 of connector M6 on the neck board. Maybe check the voltage there when you first power it on from being off for a while, and then check it again after a few minutes to see if there's any change
@@TheRetroChannel I did the Mod, but I have some Problems! If I use the New Scart Port with a Mega Drive I get picture and sound but the Colour Adjustment in front of the 1084S doesn't work anymore!!! And if I use a Scart Composite Adapter to connect a Sony PS1 on the New Scart Port the Screen stays Black! ☹️
Using RGB bypasses the colour processing. You will find this is the case with almost every RGB capable display. Composite will likely not work being fed into the scart connector, just use the composite RCA connector already on the monitor
Hello sir ! , i do the scart, mod is working good. But only with my snes i tested out with other of my console but it’s not working with them, the scart work only with the snes , do you have an idea if the problem ?
@@TheRetroChannel yes im not sure but I think the problem is from my video cable because with my snes I have a full rgb cable , but with the other console I need to use a adabtater from the 3 colored cable to the scrat , but I’m not sure
Thanks, I'll check it out some day. I have already 1081 which works nicely and has a SCART. Got some cracked solder joints when I got it but after fixing those, no problems.
A couple of things to note:
The 2.2K resistor goes in jumper link 9289, not 9789
It's also been reported that a jumper at 9281 (next to TS405) needs to be added. Mine already had a jumper installed here but double check yours
Hello, what wattage is the resistors that need to be used? In the service manual its a lot of 0.5W resistors..
0.5 or even 0.25W will be fine
Thank you for your reply. @@TheRetroChannel
Just finished the mod, it works like a charm! Thanks for detailing the process, really useful!
Really love your videos and knowledge keeping the retro community going and giving a new life to retro monitors is always good
I attempted the mod myself on my 1084P. It was a total success! Thank you for this excellent video! I can confirm mine had the 9281 jumper bridge connected aready, too.
Thank you for demonstrating how a CRT builds a charge back up after the EHT is discharged and disconnected. It is a big high voltage capacitor after all. If you don't keep it shorted it is going to pick up charge just from static in the environment and bite you!
My favourite thing about SCART (short for “Schrödinger's CRT”) is how the plug only goes in if you are looking directly at the socket. Like you know how USB (A) goes in on the third try but even more annoying because you also have to get around the back of your telly. Even my ZX Spectrum looks terrific over RGB though so on balance I reckon it’s just about worth it!
The mod is working just perfect, thanks a lot for your videos,THANKS😊
Would be great if you could post a list of the elements needed in description, but thanks for the guide!
I didn't know Australia used SCART like Europe. I guess the states was one of the few countries that didn't use it. I'd be interested in the adjustment video. Just to see how you go about doing it. One thing you might want to invest in if you are going to be working around live voltage is some electricians gloves. Mine at work are from klein and fit pretty snug, so they aren't very bulky. They have saved me from getting a 480V zap. So well worth the 20 dollar investment.
We didn't really. Some 1084s and maybe a few other computer monitors had it but that's about it. SCART was practically unheard of here until the early 2000s when it started appearing on some consumer sets and Foxtel (cable tv) boxes.
Yeah I'd like to do a video on calibration, just want to make sure I give the right safety warnings beforehand. I do have some gloves, they're rated up to 25kV AC/40kV DC and smell like rubbery bacon. Problem is they're too thick to get in there and adjust the convergence rings with any degree of accuracy
Interestingly my 1084S works with just installing the Scart connector and the jumper(s). Moving the transistor, and adding cap and resistors results in a picture similar to yours before you made those mods. Keeping the transistor in place and not adding the other components has a very nice picture from my A500 PAL. Thanks for some great videos!
That is very interesting. I'm curious if you tried it with anything other than the A500? I did test it with a bunch of other systems and everything worked as it should, mind you the A500 was not one of those, but it did work with other systems that output csync. I'm thinking that 2.2K resistor may be too high for the A500 sync...EDIT: I just checked with the owner and it does work fine with his A500, so there must be something else going on.
I might pin your comment and see if anyone else has similar issues - if you do please reply to this comment
@@TheRetroChannel I only checked with the A500 through Scart. Using a jumper or a 2.2K resistor is about the same in terms of picture quality. I had originally done as in ypur previous video and that worked perfectly. When i then moved TS406 to the TS405 position the picture became out of synch. Moving it back (and reversing the cap and two resistors) returned it to working and in synch. Otherwise everything in my 1084S looks exactly like yours in this video. I should perhaps note that i live in the US, but my A500 is European and the 1084S i Australian (quite happy to have a PAL one in the US)
Hmm, thanks for letting me know. I'm not sure why it doesn't work on yours, but I guess if it works without the mod then it doesn't matter. There's so many different varieties that Philips put out that I guess there's bound to be some subtle differences in the circuit somewhere
@@TheRetroChannel thanks again for all the great videos and inspiration. As you say many variations and it's fun to work on them
@@TheRetroChannel Great video tutorial ! I just went through the whole process and successfully modded my 1084S-P. Thankfully, I saw @markhindsbo7876 comment before finishing the mod, and decided to try his method just in case (less hassle than having to revert back) So after soldering in the SCART connector and rerouting the audio cables, I just added a plain jumper in 9289, plugged in my Super Famicom and boom ! perfect picture right away ! Im immensely happy with the results, my MiSTer runs great on it and has found its ultimate display.
One thing I noticed is that the image is a bit blurry when I power the monitor on but it progressively sharpens after a couple of mn of warming up. Is that an expected behaviour ? (I dont have any past experience with that monitor) or could it be a sign of caps failing ? I have a whole replacement cap set but haven't got to replacing them yet.
Anyhoo, huge thanks to you both for your valuable contributions and knowledge. Can't wait for a video on adjusting the convergence :D
IIRC I used my 1084S (using the scart cable) and hook up to video machine so I could watch movies on it. I never tried any consoles connected to it, as I had none :) But it was a really good image on it compared to the awful "analog" TV's I was used to back in the 80s and early 90s. I still have my 1084S. It had to get service once, but it's been working fine.... Fingers crossed and hope it will continue to work for many more years.
Nice video. I didn't realize this one was already out when I watched your last video and asked you the SCART questions about my A1200 using 6-pin RGB input Vs SCART input.
Btw would love a video on how you calibrate the display. Understand the dangers but would love to see that documented
I'll do something eventually. Unlike the majority of my videos, that one will require a bit of planning. Just so I can make sure I explain everything as best I can so people don't get hurt, or at least if they do, then they can't say I didn't warn them ;-)
I wish SCART had been more common here in NTSC land. Great, concise video. I've enjoyed watching the 1084 series. It really makes me want to replace my 1702...
Thanks. The 1702 may not have the features of the 1084 but it's a classic design and one that is on my want list.
I really enjoyed watching this, even though it’s extremely unlikely that I’ll ever being doing such a mod.
It doesn't look so hard, thank you mate.
Solid Video! -Mark
Very cool. Thanks
Dude my friend and I tried hard to achieve this and failed. Thanks for this!!
Hey, a couple of people have reported that a jumper at 9281 (next to TS405) needs to be added. Mine already had a jumper installed here but double check yours, maybe that's why it didn't work?
Thanks, I’ll check :)
Thanks!
Thank you!
love your videos brother! thank you. Can anyone suggest best source of test patterns to use to tune the monitor as shown in the video ? kind thanks
The 240p test suite runs on a number of consoles. Otherwise I like the digital video essentials DVD. No doubt there's an ISO of it online, but it may be worth looking for an original copy as it came with a colour filter card to accurately calibrate colours
Great video. Do you have a textual documentation source for those modifications?
I have an 1084 and its board clearly differs from yours (an S-P if I remember correctly) so having a written reference would help.
No sorry. And if the board differs then it may not be possible, at least not using the same method
Mine does have SCART, but it is really sensitive physically. Reflow the SCART connector?
I also have a bit of misconvergens top right, was really curious how to fix that.
I actually have a RGB Scart model (Profex branded). I have my Amiga 1000 hooked up to it. Never tried a console like SNES or Mega Drive/Genesis. Interlace mode on my Amiga is rather flickery with it. Do you think it'll work with a 16 bit Sega/Nintendo console?
The ones that came with scart will likely work fine with those consoles, but no guarantees
Thanks for the great video i'm adding a scart to my 184S_ btw the 2.2K resistor goes into 9289 not 6789... ;)
Ha, didn't even realise I said the wrong thing after the resistor was in, but yes it should be 9289. Oh dear, I say it like 3 times, I think because it looked like a 7 instead of a 2 on the bottom of the board
@@TheRetroChannel update on my mod it Didn't work. the screen was garbled and kept on rolling.. I had a look at your board and found a wire jumper was missing on my board just above R402.. So i added that jumper to it and presto it works.. Thank you once again for the proper tutorial..
Mine also had scart.
Hi. I did the mod and it worked great. Now I also tried to get image from TTL RGB after the mod. Without success. Any idea does the mod affect the functionality of other ports ot is my source faulty. That might also be the reason
Is there actually a risk to get a shock? The flyback loop seems heavily insulated.
Hi Mate. I just got a weird NTSC model 1084s. It has been modded at some stage to take 240v. But I’m getting black and white through composite. On both PAL and NTSC consoles. The crystal and sticker points that it is ntsc set .
Do you know what differences I would need to add the Scart on this set?
Odd that colour is not working with PAL or NTSC. Perhaps there's an issue with the composite and luma/chroma switch or something along those lines. Adding scart should be the same as I showed in the video but I cannot guarantee it will work with an NTSC version
Hi! Great video! I have a question. Will this trick work on my 1084P (MONO)?
It might, best bet would be to open it up and see if it looks the same. The audio side will obviously be different but just wire pins 2 and 6 on the SCART to the monitors mono audio input
Commodore saved a whopping 10 cents a unit back into the 80s not including the scart port.
Thank you for the great tutorial! I've modded my 1084S successfully (and also had to add the jumper @AusSonic mentioned) - Strangely, the montior needs around 3 Minutes of "warm up" (only after complete discharge - e.g. over night) since I've modded it - it starts with a thicker red line in the middle which widens after some time and starts to show a picture (garbled in the beginning) which becomes lesser red and more visible after some time. After some minutes the picture widened and stabilized and the colors are good - the monitor can be used normally then. Maybe you've got some hint what might be the cause of this behaviour? As I live in Germany, it's a german model btw...
So the issue only started after you did the mod? I was going to suggest bad caps that needed time to warm up. But if it was working fine up until recently, then perhaps a bad joint?
The solder joints on these things are known to go bad and maybe doing the mod has caused one to open up. I'd take a closer look at the board, if your phone has a decent camera you should be able to zoom in and see any bad joints. Pay close attention to the ones around the flyback, and also make sure the neck board is seated firmly and there's no bad joints there.
Otherwise perhaps it's an issue with the heater? I think you can measure the heater voltage on pins 4 and 5 of connector M6 on the neck board. Maybe check the voltage there when you first power it on from being off for a while, and then check it again after a few minutes to see if there's any change
Great Video👍🏻 How many watts should the resistors have?
Quarter Watt resistors will be fine
@@TheRetroChannel Thank You for the Information👍🏻 The Modification can begin!
@@TheRetroChannel I did the Mod,
but I have some Problems! If I use the New Scart Port with a Mega Drive I get picture and sound but the Colour Adjustment in front of the 1084S doesn't work anymore!!! And if I use a Scart Composite Adapter to connect a Sony PS1 on the New Scart Port the Screen stays Black! ☹️
Using RGB bypasses the colour processing. You will find this is the case with almost every RGB capable display.
Composite will likely not work being fed into the scart connector, just use the composite RCA connector already on the monitor
@@TheRetroChannel Thank You for Your quick Response!! 👍🏻 I thought I made a Mistake somwhere🤔 Thanks!! 👍🏻
Hello sir ! , i do the scart, mod is working good. But only with my snes i tested out with other of my console but it’s not working with them, the scart work only with the snes , do you have an idea if the problem ?
Did you take note of the pinned comment about jumpers? Also what happens with the non working systems - no image at all? Scrolling or scrambled image?
@@TheRetroChannel yeah I take care of the pined comment don’t worry, and I have no image at all, the sound work but no image
@yeckom-vr6946 Hmm ok. Have you confirmed the other devices work with RGB scart on another display?
@@TheRetroChannel yes im not sure but I think the problem is from my video cable because with my snes I have a full rgb cable , but with the other console I need to use a adabtater from the 3 colored cable to the scrat , but I’m not sure
@yeckom-vr6946 Yeah, sounds like you may need to source proper scart cables for the others, or just stick with the SNES. Who needs anything else 😉
So will this mod work on NTSC monitors?
It should but no guarantees
The PAL ones already have SCART.
So this "mod" was for 1084S but I have 1084 with only one speaker. So this works for it like the same, just without that audio-cable?
It should be similar but not guaranteed to be the same
Thanks, I'll check it out some day. I have already 1081 which works nicely and has a SCART. Got some cracked solder joints when I got it but after fixing those, no problems.