c'mon rob I saw your video of the archival rose which started this whole addiction for me. I love the custom versions of your normal blades and I drool over your full custom blades. First it's a snack video and now a saber shop video (awesome as it is thanks for the tips) but where o where it's my next fix of a full custom Rob Petkow saber. Its been forever man
New subscriber here☺ I've been working on a mental design for my own lightsaber and was hoping you could give me some advice, specifically for the hilt design. The base material I want use is a wooden dowel with the center drilled out and complemented with a brass decor. My issue is that I want to build a saberstaff that can become two lightsabers. If you were to build a lightsaber with a nearly all wooden handle, how would you do it and what kind of wood would you use? Meant ask one other thing; I've seen a ton of lightsabers using a round blade, but no other shape. If I wanted to install a more oval shaped blade, and have it still combat ready(lol), how would you go about this idea?
TCSS sells diffusion film right? So I could just buy the film from the site and it'd be delivered to me already rolled up and ready for me to slide into the blade?
Hey Madcow! At the end of the video, does the Tri-Cree Trans-white Diffused Blade not have a mirror in its tip? It's awefully bright compared to the Tri-Rebel Trans-white Non-diffused blade's tip which you mention has a mirror! Specifically, I'm asking about the tip itself, and not the light generated at the last 7" of the blade tube by the mirror which is more apparent in the non-diffused Tri-Rebel blade. The non-diffused's tip is darkened because of the mirror, but is the diffused's tip brightened by the film or does it not have a mirror in its tip? Thanks for another informative video! p.s. I see you're sporting a new coif, are you working on a chonmage?
Hey, All the blades shown here have mirrors in the tips. I neglected to mention that the mirrors are of slightly different size. The new mirrors are slightly smaller to allow light into the tip. Where you see an un-lit tip - that is an old full size mirror.
Hi Rob, I noticed you mentioned 8.5 degree works best but the tri lenses are usually 18 degree...I did find a 9 degree lens for a tri cree...do you think that would work superior to an 18 degree lens found at TCSS?
I have a saber from Ultrasabers with the emerald driver. The blade is noticeably brighter at the hilt and dimmer at then end. The LED module is four diodes under one dome, which I assume to be RGBW, (thought obsidian launcher only allows me to control rgb) with one lens without support. The lens also has a frosted area just above the LED. The blade I am using seems to be a transwhite heavy grade blade without film (I got it secondhand). What would be the most likely cause of the uneven lighting?
2 questions for you: 1. If you use the color discs in your LED and you use 2 of those discs, would the light density change the contrast of the brightness also? 2. Can you do a video that shows how you install and use the defuser in all blade designs?
Hi, Question 1 = those colour disks really reduce brightness in my opinion. They are from back in the day when the white LED was much brighter than the colours. Not anymore. 2 = Good idea. But until them it's a great question for the forums.
Hey I am trying to construct my first saber and I'm going to order all the parts from TCSS, however I live in another country so the lithium battery is the only part I'll be missing. Do you know any way I could install the wires in the same kind of battery (Panasonic li-ion 18650) so that it is more or less the same as the one sold by TCSS? Thank you for all the videos! They're awesome!
After completing my 1st ever lightsaber today, I've gotten a blade that isn't very bright, its completely blue with none of that white in the middle, its just the same color everwhere, and I'm not sure what i did wrong, I installed everything correctly, and the only posiibilities I can think of for the problem is either the batteries or the blade I'm using.
There's not much to it. Wrap around a wooden dowel, be careful to keep lint and dust away. Slide into blade. If you slowly spin the dowel the opposite way the blade film unravels until you can slide the dowel out. Continue to unroll the film with your finger until it's relatively tight. Secure with scotch tape. Done
I haven't wrapped the foil, but once rolled the secret is to tighten the spool, then insert, then spin the blade from near the hilt with the paper in far. The centrifugal forces push the paper to expand and meet the tip. Rolling tightly is done gently with diagonal pressure which you counter by oposing the rolls direction. GENTLY. Rolling that stuff is the most difficult part unless you have no idea how to do 8's with a stick or sword. Just swing loops around GRIPPING from NEAR THE HILT to put the centrifugal forces pushing to the tip of the blade. My best blade (concept still untested by me) is a clear 1/8 think tube at the saber width, using the inner layer of film, and an outer layer of light sanding... I"m still looking for a sand grade, but I'm going to have to guess finer than 120....
Incorrect or maybe overly simplified? "Corbin" film is not the cellophane/gift wrap that others use. "Corbin" film is named after Corbin Das that made the film. He was following Psab Keel one of the pioneers of in-hilt LED sabers. Psab was doing a "dual tube" design where they wrapped fishing line around the inner tube. This created a laser like "core". Wrapping the fishing line was really time intensive. So Corbin sought a way to replicate this with less effort. He found a machine that could score a plastic film in a repeatable manner. I remember at some point he said it was a print machine that did it. I haven't found a film that's quite like "Corbin" film even so. It's not milky white (like HDPE) or silver when wrapped (like most plastic films). I support TCSS so it doesn't bother me, just an observation. The "gift wrap" many buy from stores is actually Polypropylene. "Cellophane" is organic and generates way more static. Static gets all that crap inside your blade and ruins it.
With a tri-cree I get a bright red spot at the bottom when I'm mixing for purple. Any way to get rid of that? I'm using a TCSS heavy blade with diffuser.
I have searched the internet for days and not had as concise and wisdom laden an answer. Thank you! Some came close, but this is one stop knowledge!
bro
Rob is my unpaid mentor. your vids are so informative. Thanks
Rob, I love your videos, man. Always great information out of these. Thank you!
Thanks Rob for the explanation, it makes so much sense.
c'mon rob I saw your video of the archival rose which started this whole addiction for me. I love the custom versions of your normal blades and I drool over your full custom blades. First it's a snack video and now a saber shop video (awesome as it is thanks for the tips) but where o where it's my next fix of a full custom Rob Petkow saber. Its been forever man
All in good time my friend
Very informative and useful video! Good job Rob!
Fantastic video! Greatly appreciated!
This was super helpful thank you !
That was Awesome Wonderful Rob luv the shop Man✨💯✨
Sup bro
New subscriber here☺ I've been working on a mental design for my own lightsaber and was hoping you could give me some advice, specifically for the hilt design. The base material I want use is a wooden dowel with the center drilled out and complemented with a brass decor. My issue is that I want to build a saberstaff that can become two lightsabers. If you were to build a lightsaber with a nearly all wooden handle, how would you do it and what kind of wood would you use?
Meant ask one other thing; I've seen a ton of lightsabers using a round blade, but no other shape. If I wanted to install a more oval shaped blade, and have it still combat ready(lol), how would you go about this idea?
Great informative video Rob, thanks!
TCSS sells diffusion film right? So I could just buy the film from the site and it'd be delivered to me already rolled up and ready for me to slide into the blade?
Would replacing the stock cellophane with less cellophane help make it brighter?
love the video as always very informative thank you for your time.
Hey Madcow! At the end of the video, does the Tri-Cree Trans-white Diffused Blade not have a mirror in its tip? It's awefully bright compared to the Tri-Rebel Trans-white Non-diffused blade's tip which you mention has a mirror!
Specifically, I'm asking about the tip itself, and not the light generated at the last 7" of the blade tube by the mirror which is more apparent in the non-diffused Tri-Rebel blade. The non-diffused's tip is darkened because of the mirror, but is the diffused's tip brightened by the film or does it not have a mirror in its tip?
Thanks for another informative video! p.s. I see you're sporting a new coif, are you working on a chonmage?
Hey,
All the blades shown here have mirrors in the tips. I neglected to mention that the mirrors are of slightly different size. The new mirrors are slightly smaller to allow light into the tip. Where you see an un-lit tip - that is an old full size mirror.
Hi Rob, I noticed you mentioned 8.5 degree works best but the tri lenses are usually 18 degree...I did find a 9 degree lens for a tri cree...do you think that would work superior to an 18 degree lens found at TCSS?
I have a saber from Ultrasabers with the emerald driver. The blade is noticeably brighter at the hilt and dimmer at then end. The LED module is four diodes under one dome, which I assume to be RGBW, (thought obsidian launcher only allows me to control rgb) with one lens without support. The lens also has a frosted area just above the LED. The blade I am using seems to be a transwhite heavy grade blade without film (I got it secondhand). What would be the most likely cause of the uneven lighting?
Where can we get the film to add diffusion to our already made blade ?
What grit would you recommend for lightly sanding
the blade???
2 questions for you:
1. If you use the color discs in your LED and you use 2 of those discs, would the
light density change the contrast of the brightness also?
2. Can you do a video that shows how you install and use the defuser in all blade
designs?
Hi,
Question 1 = those colour disks really reduce brightness in my opinion. They are from back in the day when the white LED was much brighter than the colours. Not anymore.
2 = Good idea. But until them it's a great question for the forums.
If mirrored, what happens to the blade tip? why do some companies offer shine through or mirrored? and what's the diff?
Hey I am trying to construct my first saber and I'm going to order all the parts from TCSS, however I live in another country so the lithium battery is the only part I'll be missing. Do you know any way I could install the wires in the same kind of battery (Panasonic li-ion 18650) so that it is more or less the same as the one sold by TCSS? Thank you for all the videos! They're awesome!
you can get one from ebay/amazon but you need a holder
Ben besocke thanks! But does it already have the cable with the connector at the end?
you would need to solder one to the battery
10/10 informational video
Hey rob I got a new sound board
After completing my 1st ever lightsaber today, I've gotten a blade that isn't very bright, its completely blue with none of that white in the middle, its just the same color everwhere, and I'm not sure what i did wrong, I installed everything correctly, and the only posiibilities I can think of for the problem is either the batteries or the blade I'm using.
BEARD! love it dude!
How to install those diffusers into the blades though? I've heard of using a wooden dowel but no success. Tutorial video?
There's not much to it. Wrap around a wooden dowel, be careful to keep lint and dust away. Slide into blade. If you slowly spin the dowel the opposite way the blade film unravels until you can slide the dowel out. Continue to unroll the film with your finger until it's relatively tight. Secure with scotch tape. Done
In your opinion, how many film wraps do you find to be optimal? Single, double, or quad wrap?
I haven't wrapped the foil, but once rolled the secret is to tighten the spool, then insert, then spin the blade from near the hilt with the paper in far. The centrifugal forces push the paper to expand and meet the tip.
Rolling tightly is done gently with diagonal pressure which you counter by oposing the rolls direction. GENTLY. Rolling that stuff is the most difficult part unless you have no idea how to do 8's with a stick or sword. Just swing loops around GRIPPING from NEAR THE HILT to put the centrifugal forces pushing to the tip of the blade.
My best blade (concept still untested by me) is a clear 1/8 think tube at the saber width, using the inner layer of film, and an outer layer of light sanding... I"m still looking for a sand grade, but I'm going to have to guess finer than 120....
Where and what exactly is the source for the internal diffuser material u added to transwhite blade?
It's the same stuff that's in the Corbin style blade.
aka cellophane /clear gift rap you can by it an any craft store
Incorrect or maybe overly simplified? "Corbin" film is not the cellophane/gift wrap that others use. "Corbin" film is named after Corbin Das that made the film. He was following Psab Keel one of the pioneers of in-hilt LED sabers. Psab was doing a "dual tube" design where they wrapped fishing line around the inner tube. This created a laser like "core". Wrapping the fishing line was really time intensive. So Corbin sought a way to replicate this with less effort. He found a machine that could score a plastic film in a repeatable manner. I remember at some point he said it was a print machine that did it.
I haven't found a film that's quite like "Corbin" film even so. It's not milky white (like HDPE) or silver when wrapped (like most plastic films). I support TCSS so it doesn't bother me, just an observation.
The "gift wrap" many buy from stores is actually Polypropylene. "Cellophane" is organic and generates way more static. Static gets all that crap inside your blade and ruins it.
I stand corrected. The method I mentioned is what I do for clear gift wrap.
With a tri-cree I get a bright red spot at the bottom when I'm mixing for purple. Any way to get rid of that? I'm using a TCSS heavy blade with diffuser.
I would try a different style of diffuser - like the film
Rob Petkau Ok. Thanks.
awesome video, rob is god!
when will TCSS restock?
Stock is being added each week.
Rob Petkau thank you
Cellophane bro
love the video as always very informative thank you for your time.