The thing that gets me is the scale of it. Everything looks reasonably sized in the video, but there's no real preparing you for just how tiny that resistor is.
Pro Tip: When working with anything that requires complex assembly, test as much as you can before you put it all the way together. What that means is, put power to your leads before you do anything. You might have a bad light strip. If it's ok, keep testing as you go. Put power on your assembly as you go, in case you have bad connections/soldiers, etc. In other words, don't hot glue wires together only to learn later on that the damn thing won't light up and you have to rip it all apart! =D
i guess Im asking randomly but does someone know of a way to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Marshall Clay Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jeremiah Bullfrog I usually put the headers into a breadboard and place the pcb into them, then solder. If the headers are only on one side, I like to use a ball of blue tack to prop up the other side so that the pcb is perpendicular to the header
Great video. I especially like that you didn't edit it so that it seemed like you just nailed it perfectly. Really helps to see all the little things that can get in the way and what you do about them, like wires not cooperating or bits of metal ending up in strange places.
I have written to you before after watching your videos and again I feel compelled to write and thank you on how well they are done. My wife on the other hand thinks it leds to more crazy hobbies. We actually live in the same town and hope to run into at some point if you are cool with that kind of fame.
Just a little tip! When twisting and compressing the wires it will be much easier if you can warm them up a little first. Something like a quick pass with a heat gun to get the wires nice and pliable. Another plus when they cool they will be more set in that twisted position so that along with the hot glue will really keep everything all bundled up.
I don't have any LS and wasn't even planning to have one but I still watched your whole video, your way of teaching -specially the details- is amazing! I enjoyed this built!
Your a generous person to share your knowledge with others. You sound like a very giving kinda person. Mahalo from Hawaii. Hope to try this project in the future as my first electronic project.
Awesome guide! I used it to build my blade. One thing that I did do differently is redo the halfway joint. The gap is bigger than the rest of the LEDs so it creates a black spot in the middle of the blade. So I just trimmed enough of each half and soldered them back together to get the gap to match the rest of the LED gaps. You'd probably have to do that first, otherwise, it'll throw off your original measurment.
These instructions are excellent, gave me the confidence to attempt it. And, success! The only thing I'd say to improve this is: Strongly consider replacing the stock wires with good quality silicone wires. I had my blade almost fully assembled, and was testing it, when one of the strips failed. Turned out: the ground line on one strip cracked off during the "twist the wires" step. The hot glue didn't protect it enough, and that's probably my fault. It didn't fail right away, but thankfully it did fail before I glued up the bottom adapter. Now, redoing all the wires with silicone will give them extra resiliency.
Brilliant! Love the use of tape to hold your electronices together during soldering. I havent built a saber since the pc 1.5 board was new lol I need a pixel blade!!!!
Love this tutorial! It answers many questions that beginners like me have and show best practice when wiring these to the pcb. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Apologies in advance if this is unhelpfully pedantic, but the "resistor" that you refer to at 4:04 is in fact a capacitor. Easy mistake to make as they look very similar in their surface mount forms. Surface mount resistors will usually have numbers on them that signify their resistance. I've never seen a SMD (surface mount device) cap with lettering; they're usually tan colored, sometimes white. In this case the capacitor works as a so called "decoupling capacitor" and helps even out the power going to the neopixel, which are famously picky about power sources.
depending on where you source your parts and shipping and such, and using USD, potentially around $50-60? pixel blades are generally around $100-120, a parts build (assuming you have the soldering equipment) with the strips, the tube/foam/tip, the electronic components, I'd call that maybe like, $40-50.
Very good tutorial of this new Neopixel blade system! You stated tgat we can purchase all the individual parts to assemble...where do we go to purchase? New to this and want to build a saber. Thanks and again...awesome video! Dave P. Whittier, CA USA
This is a wonderful tutorial. I’d recently read how there’s a slightly larger gap between LED’s at the point the neopixel boards are joined, which can cause a shadow in the blade. So some people trim this connection and resolder? Is this not always the case, or not recommended?
Yes, I would recommend doing that. I used this guide to build my blade and I did have that dead spot where the joint is. I would definitely trim and re-solder.
Thank you for this very informative video. In the parts list you have not linked the Neopixel strips or the resistor however. Since you offer a couple of different strips, which one are you using here?
Watched a few of your videos,and planning on building my own saber,would like your opinion on what kind of soldering iron to use for this type of soldering. My soldering experience is limited to RS hobby kits,the iron I currently have I feel the tip is to fat and I can't find finer tips. Help please?
Question: Why is the resistor needed? Does it matter which sound board you are using? I am using a Proffieboard v2.2, the configurator does not call for a resistor. Please let me know.
The resistor serves to limit the amount of power on the neopixel's data line. You do not _need_ it but they are strongly suggested to prevent possible damage to the first neopixel in the strip learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/basic-connections
THANK YOU THANK YOU SO MUCH for this amazing video tutorial 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼 By any chance do you have any videos of types of boards that you can use for a lightsaber?
@TheCustomSaberShop What would you call that thing that's behind you in the opening of the video? I've been trying to find a tutorial on how to make one forever!
Rob at Genesis Custom Sabers made this tutorial for The Custom Saber Shop, and I think you're talking about the "start chart" in the background. See this great tutorial of Rob's start chart here: th-cam.com/video/Y-krDRPSUR8/w-d-xo.html
A few questions. I see, No inner diffusion tube, or wrapping leds in heat shrink or mylar. So with the new foam are those methods obsolete? And do you use a capacitor if so is it in hilt?
I need an old power & sound box for my LED build, saber works, just no power box or sound (I’m currently using a 9v to test it or show it) - the LED has its own little board - I bought it all from CSS in 2006ish
Is the resistor on the PCB i the blade needed if you have one in the handle? A bit confused as to when to use a resistor. I have one on the data line prior to the board. To bridge or not to bridge and when that is the question? Also using a capacitor in between the power lines.
You only need ONE resistor. If yours is in the hilt - then you can just bridge those pads where I put the resistor. A capacitor is only necessary if you have an small battery. I've never used one.
hello, How do u power your saber? I have BFT LEDs and they require DC5V power, I cannot find an adequate power supply and was wondering if u or any other commenters would be able to help,
Regarding sliding the pixel strip through the foam: Can you tie fine fishing line onto the end of the pixel strip and thread the line through with a rod and then pull it through?
Great instructional video for pixel sabers! The best I've seen so far. I'm not seeing that parabolic tip in the shop. Will it be available soon? Also, will there be a 7/8 one?
In the early phase of building my first ever lightsaber from scratch, wanna go with neopixel, but have a question. What about the heat from LED's? Is it ok to stick LED strips just to each other, and not on even very thin metal paper strip (kinda) for the heat removal purposes? Will it not melt foam part?
I used parts from y'all to make this exact blade, the issue I'm running into is one of the strips won't light every time. Ive checked the connections at the bottom and it all seems fine. It appears to be a data line issue as the blade style will hang up on clash effects some times. Any tips on how to test the blade to find the bad connection?
Hey Rob, Excellent tutorial as always, after finally getting my parts and preparing to assemble my CFX and Neopixel setup, I've run into a a discrepancy on a few other tutorials I watched out of curiosity. Some people stagger the strips so they can solder the tips together, without explaining if there is an actual reason to. Does this effect performance at all? or is it fine just to follow this tutorial to the letter and not connect the strip ends at the top?
I would think that wiring up the positive and ground at the top would be a pain, because they are flipped/opposite each other, you'd have two criss-crossed wires at the tip. The weakest voltage will always be at the furthest end (towards the tip) because of the relative resistance along the way. I don't see much payoff to combining them, and you might get a shadow from the wires you'd have to add. I did as this demonstration did and the light is even. I think you'll be better served making sure you have sufficient gauge wire feeding to the adapter in the hilt to ensure the best power transfer. I used 18ga and that seems to be pretty solid. One last thing: I took a tip from the wiring diagram of the Proffie board and put a 1000uf Sanyo electrolytic capacitor inside the hilt across the power leads to help give a quick boost on a large color or intensity change.
Hi, so I've got a question that you most likely won't want to answer. Where do I find a detailed drawing so I can try building a none working light saber.... It costs way to much to get your awesome products to Australia...
Hi Rob great video!! I have a few questions. The Nano Biscotti manual recommends adding a 330 to 470 electrolytic capacitor to the blade along with the resistor. Is this not required with the Plector Pixel connectors? Is blade wrap film in addition to the foam diffuser no longer required? Can you recommend an alternative glue to use on the blade connector? The Weld On glue is 19 bucks just for a 4 ounce can, ouch! When will the parabolic blade tips be available in TCSS? What is the rating and tolerance for the SMD 330 ohm resistor and will TCSS be carrying them? Thanks in Advance
The capacitor is not really necessary with any decent battery solution. The resistor can be almost any 330 ohm as it's only the data line. These resistors will be in store soon You can add addition diffusion methods, but I prefer to not add any weight to the blade that is not absolutely necessary. Tip glue can be any solvent cement that works with polycarbonate
Thanks for the great video. Quick question. I’m the config file when you enter the number of pixels, do you enter the number for one strip or both combined, so 140 or 280?
Great tutorial. I just wanted to ask, is there any problem with twisting the two Data wires together and connecting them to 1 pad only? The NXPL connector I am using only has a single datapad. I'm guessing not, but wanted to ask the question.
There are tons of different blade lengths in lore, but I bet a lot of people don't know what's out there on the market, or think length equals strength? Silly peoples.
@@Baron_Lio was asking because I noticed most stock polycarbon pipes are 1 meter, just happen to fit 1 meter NeoPixel roll, was wondering, do you cut it, or just use that extra length to light up the inside of a saber like a fake crystal core...
The thing that gets me is the scale of it. Everything looks reasonably sized in the video, but there's no real preparing you for just how tiny that resistor is.
I never knew i wanted this in my life
Pro Tip: When working with anything that requires complex assembly, test as much as you can before you put it all the way together. What that means is, put power to your leads before you do anything. You might have a bad light strip. If it's ok, keep testing as you go. Put power on your assembly as you go, in case you have bad connections/soldiers, etc. In other words, don't hot glue wires together only to learn later on that the damn thing won't light up and you have to rip it all apart! =D
Brilliant tutorial. Also, everytime you called your wire snipper "Snips," it made me think of Ahsoka. XD
lol I was thinking the same thing
i guess Im asking randomly but does someone know of a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Cole Francis instablaster :)
@Marshall Clay Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Marshall Clay It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
That last tip about the programming was gold! As simple as it is, I wouldn’t have even thought about it. Thank you!
Thanks Rob, the tape trick for the SMD resistor is golden. I'll use it.
@Jeremiah Bullfrog I usually put the headers into a breadboard and place the pcb into them, then solder. If the headers are only on one side, I like to use a ball of blue tack to prop up the other side so that the pcb is perpendicular to the header
Thing is, they at Custom Saber Shop do sell pre-made (soldered) parts. All that’s left is blade assembly/hilt wiring.
Great video. I especially like that you didn't edit it so that it seemed like you just nailed it perfectly. Really helps to see all the little things that can get in the way and what you do about them, like wires not cooperating or bits of metal ending up in strange places.
brilliant and pedagogic teaching as usual rob, bravo
is there any chance that there will be an video of how to wire and install the cfx?
I have written to you before after watching your videos and again I feel compelled to write and thank you on how well they are done. My wife on the other hand thinks it leds to more crazy hobbies. We actually live in the same town and hope to run into at some point if you are cool with that kind of fame.
Thanks Rob!!, as usual, a great contribution to the community
Nice! One of the biggest issue with lightsaber blades is the uneven lighting. This one looks fantastic. I also like the shade.
Just a little tip! When twisting and compressing the wires it will be much easier if you can warm them up a little first. Something like a quick pass with a heat gun to get the wires nice and pliable. Another plus when they cool they will be more set in that twisted position so that along with the hot glue will really keep everything all bundled up.
Also great audio in these vids. Its like Bob Ross for saber nerds! Thanks Rob and TCSS!
I don't have any LS and wasn't even planning to have one but I still watched your whole video, your way of teaching -specially the details- is amazing! I enjoyed this built!
I'm not even looking to touch NeoPixel until I can just buy the stuff prebuilt, but I love watching these videos anyway.
Bro your thumbnails make you look like a evil Scientist. I love it!
Your a generous person to share your knowledge with others. You sound like a very giving kinda person. Mahalo from Hawaii. Hope to try this project in the future as my first electronic project.
wow Rob even shows you how to build your own, what amazing guy
Just getting back into lightsaber building, and this was a great tutorial Many thanks!
Awesome guide! I used it to build my blade. One thing that I did do differently is redo the halfway joint. The gap is bigger than the rest of the LEDs so it creates a black spot in the middle of the blade. So I just trimmed enough of each half and soldered them back together to get the gap to match the rest of the LED gaps. You'd probably have to do that first, otherwise, it'll throw off your original measurment.
These instructions are excellent, gave me the confidence to attempt it. And, success! The only thing I'd say to improve this is: Strongly consider replacing the stock wires with good quality silicone wires. I had my blade almost fully assembled, and was testing it, when one of the strips failed. Turned out: the ground line on one strip cracked off during the "twist the wires" step. The hot glue didn't protect it enough, and that's probably my fault. It didn't fail right away, but thankfully it did fail before I glued up the bottom adapter. Now, redoing all the wires with silicone will give them extra resiliency.
Brilliant! Love the use of tape to hold your electronices together during soldering. I havent built a saber since the pc 1.5 board was new lol I need a pixel blade!!!!
This looks very cool rob...top notch video as always bro. Can't wait for them to get the Neopixel Strips/ribbons in-stock.
Incredible tutorial. You are an excellent instructor.
I have so much respect for your work, from the bottom of my heart, Thank you so much!!
Awesome work , where can I get the materials to build this in the UK, and how do I make the actual hilt with the soundboard etc, thank you 👍👍
Love this tutorial! It answers many questions that beginners like me have and show best practice when wiring these to the pcb. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for sharing this - very well described and executed tutorial.
This video is a lifesaver. Thank you!
question, at 9:29 why are there two extra wires there that don't go to anything
You should make a showcase video so we can see the result in different light conditions etc...
Thanks for the vid just was able too do a repair job thanks again Rob 😃
Thank you, Rob! Trying to build one of these was on my list.
Apologies in advance if this is unhelpfully pedantic, but the "resistor" that you refer to at 4:04 is in fact a capacitor. Easy mistake to make as they look very similar in their surface mount forms. Surface mount resistors will usually have numbers on them that signify their resistance. I've never seen a SMD (surface mount device) cap with lettering; they're usually tan colored, sometimes white.
In this case the capacitor works as a so called "decoupling capacitor" and helps even out the power going to the neopixel, which are famously picky about power sources.
Bryan Siepert you’re wrong, it is a resistor
Rob, that makes me want to dig out my MHS parts and build a new saber! Excellent video.....
"Boy, it feels good when the hardest part's over!" That's what I told Gently! =D
I was afraid to make the transition to a new blade technology (my current sabers are tri-cree), but this looks pretty solid.
Fantastic video! Does anyone know about how much money can be saved making one as opposed to buying one?
Don Saito at least $0
At maximum $100000
depending on where you source your parts and shipping and such, and using USD, potentially around $50-60? pixel blades are generally around $100-120, a parts build (assuming you have the soldering equipment) with the strips, the tube/foam/tip, the electronic components, I'd call that maybe like, $40-50.
Thanks for the serious reply.
@@donmak0427 you can get ready made neo blades from AliExpress for as little as 95$
I'd suggest using a string thru the foam to gently pull the pixels thru
good idea!
Brilliant tutorial Rob! I know what I'm making this winter break... 😁
Very good tutorial of this new Neopixel blade system!
You stated tgat we can purchase all the individual parts to assemble...where do we go to purchase?
New to this and want to build a saber.
Thanks and again...awesome video!
Dave P.
Whittier, CA USA
I know I'm commenting on a year old video...but could you use a pull cord to pull the pixel strips through the foam?
sure!
This is a wonderful tutorial. I’d recently read how there’s a slightly larger gap between LED’s at the point the neopixel boards are joined, which can cause a shadow in the blade. So some people trim this connection and resolder? Is this not always the case, or not recommended?
Yes, I would recommend doing that. I used this guide to build my blade and I did have that dead spot where the joint is. I would definitely trim and re-solder.
Anyone know what electronics to couple with this to get the switching colors, the start up and shut down light progressions and sound?? Thanks ALL!!
Proffie board for sure, I think the Crystal X as well. As long as the board supports Addressable or Neopixel, that should work.
Thank you for this very informative video.
In the parts list you have not linked the Neopixel strips or the resistor however. Since you offer a couple of different strips, which one are you using here?
Watched a few of your videos,and planning on building my own saber,would like your opinion on what kind of soldering iron to use for this type of soldering.
My soldering experience is limited to RS hobby kits,the iron I currently have I feel the tip is to fat and I can't find finer tips.
Help please?
Just a fan. Hope you're doing well. Merry Christmas!! P.S. Love the work!
Rob always makes things look so easy. Lol -.-
@Jeremiah Bullfrog O.K.
Excellent installment! Might be doing this for a friend.
Might I ask what brand soldering tin you're using?
Question: Why is the resistor needed? Does it matter which sound board you are using? I am using a Proffieboard v2.2, the configurator does not call for a resistor. Please let me know.
The resistor serves to limit the amount of power on the neopixel's data line. You do not _need_ it but they are strongly suggested to prevent possible damage to the first neopixel in the strip
learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/basic-connections
THANK YOU THANK YOU SO MUCH for this amazing video tutorial 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
By any chance do you have any videos of types of boards that you can use for a lightsaber?
I would recommend a Proffie board V2.2, they work amazing! They can be a little hard to find though. I got mine from The State of Build.
I can't seem to find the pre-drilled parabolic tip and the 330Ohm smd resistor on TCSS.
i would like to know this aswell :D
The tip will be a new item in the store very soon.
resistor...
www.thecustomsabershop.com/330-ohm-SMD-0603-resistor-P1415.aspx
@@MadcowGenesis Will there be multiple shapes of pre-drilled tips? Or just this new parabolic shape?
@@nanorex_designs I'm not certain if there will be more styles. The one I used was a sample.
Great Tutorial. Do you plan to do a video on how to connect to the Nana Biscotte V4 sound and speaker assembly?
will you be stocking neopixels soon as well? If not, which did you use here?
@TheCustomSaberShop What would you call that thing that's behind you in the opening of the video? I've been trying to find a tutorial on how to make one forever!
Rob at Genesis Custom Sabers made this tutorial for The Custom Saber Shop, and I think you're talking about the "start chart" in the background. See this great tutorial of Rob's start chart here: th-cam.com/video/Y-krDRPSUR8/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a video for the saber side of setting up the neopixel blade with the soundboard?
A few questions. I see, No inner diffusion tube, or wrapping leds in heat shrink or mylar. So with the new foam are those methods obsolete? And do you use a capacitor if so is it in hilt?
You can certainly do those things. I personally do not like to add any weight to the blade that is not absolutely necessary.
I need an old power & sound box for my LED build, saber works, just no power box or sound (I’m currently using a 9v to test it or show it) - the LED has its own little board - I bought it all from CSS in 2006ish
Such a great tutorial! Thanks Rob!
bob ross of electronics. i love it.
Is the resistor on the PCB i the blade needed if you have one in the handle? A bit confused as to when to use a resistor. I have one on the data line prior to the board. To bridge or not to bridge and when that is the question? Also using a capacitor in between the power lines.
You only need ONE resistor. If yours is in the hilt - then you can just bridge those pads where I put the resistor. A capacitor is only necessary if you have an small battery. I've never used one.
That "film" actually is called tape in the industry!
Is there going to be any tutorials on how to use a prizim v5?
You're the man Rob.
What is the point of the resistor? I'm using a teensy board and I've never used a resistor with neopixles before, but I'm wondering if I need one
This is...beautiful. Thank you!
Any recommendations on where to get pixel strips that are as bright?
After cutting the extra strips from the neopixel. What number do you put in the SD card so that it will have full illumination?
you do some fantastic work i want one
hello, How do u power your saber? I have BFT LEDs and they require DC5V power, I cannot find an adequate power supply and was wondering if u or any other commenters would be able to help,
Oi, quantas baterias 18650 e você esta usando, considerando que a fita de led é 5v?
Regarding sliding the pixel strip through the foam: Can you tie fine fishing line onto the end of the pixel strip and thread the line through with a rod and then pull it through?
This would be useful as work lamp for auto repair.
head lamps like the ones that are sold for camping are the way to go. Not nearly as cool as a lightsaber, but very useful.
He’s the bob ross of lightsabers
Great instructional video for pixel sabers! The best I've seen so far. I'm not seeing that parabolic tip in the shop. Will it be available soon? Also, will there be a 7/8 one?
The tip will be a new item in the store very soon.
this might be obvious but the hilts that works with these nepixel blades doesn't light up anymore right? i mean the hilt only
Great tutorial!
This might be an already answered question, but could you use a heavier grade tube for this to make it more combat-ready? Great tutorial, thanks!
In the early phase of building my first ever lightsaber from scratch, wanna go with neopixel, but have a question. What about the heat from LED's? Is it ok to stick LED strips just to each other, and not on even very thin metal paper strip (kinda) for the heat removal purposes? Will it not melt foam part?
what about 3 led strips on a triangle support? is it possibly to learn this power? :D
I used parts from y'all to make this exact blade, the issue I'm running into is one of the strips won't light every time. Ive checked the connections at the bottom and it all seems fine. It appears to be a data line issue as the blade style will hang up on clash effects some times. Any tips on how to test the blade to find the bad connection?
What pieces would I need if I was to convert an in hilt 7/8 in blade to this neopixel?
Hey Rob,
Excellent tutorial as always, after finally getting my parts and preparing to assemble my CFX and Neopixel setup, I've run into a a discrepancy on a few other tutorials I watched out of curiosity. Some people stagger the strips so they can solder the tips together, without explaining if there is an actual reason to. Does this effect performance at all? or is it fine just to follow this tutorial to the letter and not connect the strip ends at the top?
I would think that wiring up the positive and ground at the top would be a pain, because they are flipped/opposite each other, you'd have two criss-crossed wires at the tip. The weakest voltage will always be at the furthest end (towards the tip) because of the relative resistance along the way. I don't see much payoff to combining them, and you might get a shadow from the wires you'd have to add. I did as this demonstration did and the light is even. I think you'll be better served making sure you have sufficient gauge wire feeding to the adapter in the hilt to ensure the best power transfer. I used 18ga and that seems to be pretty solid. One last thing: I took a tip from the wiring diagram of the Proffie board and put a 1000uf Sanyo electrolytic capacitor inside the hilt across the power leads to help give a quick boost on a large color or intensity change.
is the shop still open? i went looking and everything i wanted to order was no longer in stock. sites still up but everythings out of stock.
Hi, so I've got a question that you most likely won't want to answer. Where do I find a detailed drawing so I can try building a none working light saber.... It costs way to much to get your awesome products to Australia...
Hi Rob great video!! I have a few questions. The Nano Biscotti manual recommends adding a 330 to 470 electrolytic capacitor to the blade along with the resistor. Is this not required with the Plector Pixel connectors? Is blade wrap film in addition to the foam diffuser no longer required? Can you recommend an alternative glue to use on the blade connector? The Weld On glue is 19 bucks just for a 4 ounce can, ouch! When will the parabolic blade tips be available in TCSS? What is the rating and tolerance for the SMD 330 ohm resistor and will TCSS be carrying them? Thanks in Advance
The capacitor is not really necessary with any decent battery solution.
The resistor can be almost any 330 ohm as it's only the data line. These resistors will be in store soon
You can add addition diffusion methods, but I prefer to not add any weight to the blade that is not absolutely necessary.
Tip glue can be any solvent cement that works with polycarbonate
@@MadcowGenesis Thanks for the reply and great information
where can i buy the neopixel strips? i checked the online store but are out of stock
I love your videos! Very cool!
Where can I purchase or how can I make a blue neon rebel base display like you have in the thumbnail?? Thanks!! :)
So what makes the connection in the saber itself?
For the 330 ohm resistor ... what Tolerance and Power (Watts) would you suggest?
Low watt requirement as it's only the data line. These resistors will be in store soon
Now that you have done the blade are you going to do a tutorial for the hilt PCB with a NBv4?
Thanks for the great video. Quick question. I’m the config file when you enter the number of pixels, do you enter the number for one strip or both combined, so 140 or 280?
Great tutorial. I just wanted to ask, is there any problem with twisting the two Data wires together and connecting them to 1 pad only? The NXPL connector I am using only has a single datapad. I'm guessing not, but wanted to ask the question.
Do you have a video to show how to hook up the connector to the sound chip plz
Could you please help me with a part list for an ROTS Anakin conversion. Site says out of stock for the conversion but I'd like to build a Neopixel.
how can i hollow out the tube end cap?
why did you feed the wires thru each other instead of just flipping the PCB around?
mb lol u answered it
can someone answer why is everyone building 1 meter long Blades when the lightsaber blade should be around 90cm (3 feet)
There are tons of different blade lengths in lore, but I bet a lot of people don't know what's out there on the market, or think length equals strength? Silly peoples.
@@Baron_Lio was asking because I noticed most stock polycarbon pipes are 1 meter, just happen to fit 1 meter NeoPixel roll, was wondering, do you cut it, or just use that extra length to light up the inside of a saber like a fake crystal core...
1 meter is 3 feet. Just a tiny bit over.
How do you know what size resistor to use if any?