Off-road fuel economy advice
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- Off-road fuel economy advice
0:54 Engine Maintenance
3:24 The Ugly Truth
9:02 4WD vs 2WD
10:54 Speed Matters
11:45 Up & Down
12:26 Tyre PSI and Fuel
13:40 Cruise control
14:11 Gearing
14:40 on take off
14:56 Correct vehicle
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Wind Resistance increases to the square of the increase in speed, so if you double your speed, you quadruple the wind resistance. There is a huge difference in wind resistance between 90km/h and 110km/h, especially in a 4WD with lots of things hanging off it.
Not really a problem in Norway, since most roads are 70 and 80
Tu te Kohe
Double the speed, quadruple the resistance (drag), and need eight times the power to overcome the resistance !
Spot on buddy, a rule of thumb i use is 10%, you make the surface area of your vehicle bigger by 10% you increase fuel usage by 10%.
For me i use this 10% and lower my speed accordingly.
If im fully loaded for a week trip i never ever (except for downhill and following someone) go over 90km.
When loaded the fuel difference as you mentioned between 90 and 100km/h is huge.
In a convoy change the leader every 50kms or so. Use the leaders drag wisely.
nice observation when i put my roof rack on i noticed a lot of drag
Bugatti had to add hundreds of horsepower to gain just 50km/h once they got near 400. lol
" aerodynamics that your vehicle manufacturer spend millions of dollars on" Engineers at Landrover scratching their heads..
Agree 100% with your comments on 4wd vs 2wd. Also, in every vehicle I've ever driven, 65mph is the sweet spot of balance between fuel efficiency and speed. More than that and your mileage starts tanking.
"Nah I own a Jeep, aerodynamics don't matter for them... it's already f**ked"
While that may be true, slowing down really helps. This from the driver of a Gladiator Rubicon on 37s. Try driving 70 into a 30 mph wind. 18 mph at 68 goes to 11 mph.
yea your a big resistance on the rear of a tow truck
i get 7 lt 100,without the missus...............
Cruise control saves me from speeding tickets which saves me money for fuel!
amen to that
same cc application here :D
In a trip i recently took to Big Bend, Texas, USA there was about 360+ miles of 75-85mph roads with hills and fairly little traffic so cruise control was very helpful
i use it constantly and i pay attention the whole time making many adjustments. it's more like playing a video game than using my foot, not so i can start looking around all of a sudden. i think i started using it because i have really bad shin splints from skating my whole life. my mechanic told me he had never seen a broken cruise cable before, 3yrs later i broke one on a different truck.
My adaptive cruise in my tundra is awesome.
Ronnie your vids are legendary mate. You make dry topics interesting. A true talent.
Cruise control makes a noticeable improvement to fuel economy in my Defender. It also makes long hauls on the road a lot more relaxing.
The it is a problem with the driver
AGREE. Its easy to be a little bit too sudden on and off the throttle which chews up the fuel.
Cruise Control makes a noticeable negative effect on Fuel Economy on a 2.6tonne 100 series. Especially in hilly terrain.
You can be far more economical by peddling it.
As Ronny said, and i have to concur, the cruise control will maintain the speed no matter what, if that means stuffing 15psi of boost in and ramping up the injector duration and pump pressure, then it will.
Driving it with your eyes and feet, can let the gas roll off as you crest a rise, because you know the downhill is coming....
I think the reason it helps me is that it maintains a more consistent speed. My speed doesn't slowly creep up whilst other cars are passing me. Keeping a steady speed means that my average is the same but the peaks are lower.
I do turn it off when going down long hills (it doesn't perform well at very low power inputs) and when I'm getting to the top of a hill to stop me from flying over the top. I also pay attention to make sure it's in the right gear, but 6th gear at motorway speeds is about 2200 RPM so not exactly labouring!
Tom Cardale n;((
I have a Car and Driver feature on aerodynamics from the 80s and it found that a Land Rover Defender on the highway has the aerodynamics of a Volvo 760 towing another Volvo 760 in neutral on a rope. The best live axle 4x4s were all designed pre-aero. Ronnie is right about the 10 km/h as speed and energy required is an exponential function (ie more equals way more).
Even an unladen roof rack added 10% extra fuel to my GQ Patrol when I had it in the 90s.
When it came to mirrors, I was surprised it took you so long. Us mechanical engineers spend ages trying to make mirrors more aerodynamic as anything that juts out causes so much wind resistance...
As a caravan owner I talked a mate with a camper trailer and Triton to stick with me at 90 for a trip. He saved over 6l of fuel per 100km rather than doing his normal 110-120kmh like he did before. He couldn't believee it. Even in my Pajero 3.2 did it means around 3lt per 100 difference when towing.
Mate thanks for the advice, very honest and informative. You are spot on about the 90km speed, I have tested it and its actually true. As usual, great work Ronny.
OK for you young fellas not to use cruise control to save fuel, but it is very effective in reducing driver fatigue!
also good if there is radar about and speed cameras
Cruise control will improve fuel economy in the long run...humans tend to forget to concentrate on their left foot while driving, CC doesn't and keeps the speed constant no unnecessary use of the loud pedal. The only problem is big long downhill runs and then you can just turn if off temporarily....just a movement of the thumb....and as Shane says helps with speed cameras.
Mike, yea its very tiring having your foot on a pedal, fatigue is caused by concentrating for long periods of time amongst other reasons
Yeah..cruise control in the FJ is a bit worse than not using it because it downshifts and adds accelerator on every hill due to only 5 gears.
I tend to disagree. CC in hilly country increases fuel consumption because it fails to ‘anticipate’ what’s ahead. In hilly terrain, it activates the brakes on downhills then doesn’t “see” the next hill coming and so brakes your speed back and then accelerates hard when it hits that next hill. In WA once you hit the flat country ie east of Dalwallinu / Wubin or north of Cervantes then you start to hit the flat country and yes then CC works. But I keep it off and manage the speed, braking and acceleration up to that point. Although I actually enjoy driving the car myself so only use the CC option for a little fatigue relief.
VEHICLE LIFT! This was the one thing that made a big difference to my diesel economy. Effectively a bigger frontal surface area, where the underside of the car is not even remotely aerodynamically efficient.
use momentum wisely
Best channel on TH-cam Ronny keep up the great content! Cheers from Canada
I love the point brought out on 2W vs 4W when hitting gravel. I've always switched right away to 4H, and I've always got the comment "why are you switching so early you are losing another 10/mi per gallon."
People said the same to me when they found I kept my wheels locked all winter.
Agree with you regarding the cruise control issues. Especially when going up hills. However cruise control is a great addition on long boring flat roads. It allows that cramped up leg on the accelerator, to be shifted into a more comfortable position, after hours of driving. Perfect for outback driving.
Revs also play a huge part in fuel on highway, definatly better to sit around 90 instead of 110
The bit about downshifting to climb a hill depends a lot on what sort of engine we’re looking at, NA gas engines typically are at their most thermodynamically efficient at low RPMs (above idle!) with a wide open throttle. Things get more complicated when you add forced induction, gas engines need to richen up to avoid detonation, diesels often need to richen to keep the turbo from overheating.
One thing you didn't mention mate was lift kits, up to 50 mm is fine but more than that alters the aerodynamics of a vehicle and seriously increases fuel consumption. All the rest I agree whole heartedly with especially cruise control.
Every part of every vehicle is a compromise, and understanding the compromises are crucial to improving fuel consumption.
It’s crazy how much fuel you save driving between 90 - 100. I traveled around Aus in my hilux and the difference between cruising at 90 - 100 and doing 110 - 120 is about 100ks extra out of a tank
Some great tips there. Thanks Ronney.. I drive a old Jeep Cherokee, Does not matter what I am doing it just gets poor gas mileage. If I am pulling 5000lbs down the highway or driving to the mall it gets the same mileage.... See you on the trails, George.
Doubling the speed makes the vehicle encounter twice as much air traveling twice as fast causing drag to quadruple os with a small increase in speed the drag goes upX4 .
I added a light bar with 4 6” Lights to my stock ‘15 JKUWW and went from getting 19-20mpg on highway road trips to 15-16mpg... which is actually worse than my city driving mpg. I was pretty surprised at that difference.
I have a Discovery 1 TDI 300 engine. Equipped with bullbar ,winch, roofrack,rooftop tent, mud terrain tyres & all camping gear loaded to survive weeks of travel (2 adults & 2 kids ). I have done trips traveling at the posted speed limit & returned economy figures of 10.5L /100Km. Only used 90L going from Birdsville to Mt Dare. I haven't seen any 79 Cruisers get even close to this . One feature I added was a engine saver & the digital cylinder head temp let you see when you were driving it to hard on long hills or with headwinds.
I actually got my EPA rated highway mileage on my 80 the other day, the trick was driving 55 mph (90kph). 15.3 mpg sounds poor (it is) but given 33 inch tires, roof rack, 4.56 gears and 300,000 mile engine...I can handle it.
Best tip for fuel economy: If you're into it, don't buy a 4x4.
A Yaris hybrid will do.
Actually my fuel economy is twice as good going from a streamline smaller HSV Commodore to a 4cyl Turbo Diesel 4x4.
I hate this sentiment. Many people use their 4x4s on long journeys, it matters whether you think it does or not.
Your argument is absolutely correct. Chip tuning sometimes let the engine do the same work in a "shorter time" without making it overheat. The mods should not include turbo/superchargers. These are fuel & engine killer unless you upgrade your pistons and crankshaft(Which are costy and unnecessary)
Fun fact: A G 63 at 250km/h consumes over 60l/100km.
Great Vid once again, though I’d like to say that these days many “modern” petrol engines can be as economical as many
diesels .
my rooftop tent on a 2017 hilux @ 110/120km/h has fuel consumption of 14L per 100km, if you are driving without a rooftop tent @ 160km/h it uses 12L per 100km. crazy the difference a bit of wind resistance makes, the worst thing by far is the wind noise though
I've hear the 4x4 methodology presented differently. Both my grandfather and his father always said the 4wd system was made to get you out of trouble not into it, and that you only engage it for technical challenges, slippery terrain, hill climbs, etc. In my own experience, a graded gravel road doesn't require 4wd at all unless you want to drive fast, or drive in inclement weather. Outside of those cases the 4wd system has no impact at all on vehicle safety.
I bet you are in America (like me.) I think in Australia and Africa the drive fast on gravel a lot, at least more than we do in general. What scares me are anti-lock brakes on washboard or gravel roads.
I’m from rural New Zealand where we have a lot of very winding gravel roads and a lot of us who aren’t farmers use fwd jap cars and get along fine but I do agree that 4wd and awd are definitely much safer and more stable. 2wd is fine if you’re not gunning it all the time
From driving HMMWVs in the service, I agree with going 4x4 on gravel...
Just not in a fish tank
The biggest hit I had to my MPG, over the RTT, Drawers, fridge, dual battery setup was larger heavier tires.
did you have the odo/speedo corrected for different tyre size? if not then your mpg figures will be wrong due to the odo being wrong.
When I went up to 33s from 31s my fuel economy was better after correcting to odometer personally
Great tips, and couldn't be more right. Speed has the biggest impact on fuel economy since drag goes up as the square of velocity. An increase in speed from 90k/hr to 110k/hr is a 50% increase in the amount of drag.
Couple of other tips:
On vehicles that have locking hubs, unlocking them in 2wd if you won't be needing 4wd will help.
Oil weight can make a difference in the internal friction of the engine - use what the manufacturer recommends for your temperature. if you are in colder temperatures, changing to the lower weight oil can help with economy.
Also, if you have a petrol car, replacing a faulty o2 sensor can make a big difference as well.
I've added full barwork, a fully loaded 1200 canopy which overhangs the sides and top, slimline roof bars plus much more on a V6 N60 and my fuel consumption has not really changed from around 12-14L depending on situation. Whereas I constantly see people on 33 inch tyres getting 15+ consistently without significant other mods. Bigger tyres definitely chunks fuel consumption more than anything else.
Great advice Ronnie. Love the videos and all the tips 'n' tricks. Now like you say in this video one of the biggest thing is how you drive. My mate and I both have 93' model Toyota Hilux, we recently did a Vic high country trip that totaled 1000Km. So same vehicle different driving styles. He used over the course of the trip 60L more fuel than me.
I didn't buy my 1995 Jeep XJ for its absolutely terrible fuel economy. And I didn't put larger tires on it for better fuel economy. Nor the heavy front winch bumper, Rock Sliders or Rear Bumper either, but living here in the Western US, we have large distances to travel to get to the best spots to wheel. Lots of wide open spaces in between the rocky, fun bits. So I do what i can to conserve as much fuel for the off-roading parts of the journey by simply driving a bit slower. And yes, if you don't need the extra body armor, then don't put it on your vehicle. Simple enough advice, but you see a lot of people here in America doing just that. Hanging all sorts of crap on their trucks to just crawl around the local shopping malls. LOL!
Anyhow, thanks for the tips from someone who has done it and seen it! Keep it up!
One thing often not considered is that rotational mass takes about three times more force to accelerate than static weight. For example, if you upgrade stock tyres to 35's you are easily adding 15 kg per wheel. This 60kg (15*4) rotational mass increase is therefore actually equivalent to having an extra 180kg on the vehicle
Thank you will definitely be taking all of this into consideration as I build.
Maintainace... Very Big Point... I Drive an old Mercedes with a half a Million Kilometer in the clock....
Changed the injectors and got from 12,5 L down top 8,9L
Going back to the tailgating point, as proven in NASCAR or on mythbusters, you have to be so close to the vehicle ahead, that you are unable to stop, your reaction time disappears. In the event that lead vehicle crashes, you'll be the first to know. As you pointed out, don't tailgate a semi (or road train for you down under), in the event that trailer has a blowout, that tire carcass will be in your lap before you brake. Seen it happen.
On bitumen, imo, cruise control is brilliant as it greatly reduces fatigue over long distance. On gravel, I don't use cruise control as it becomes a safety issue (once again, imo) due to a potential loss of control. I've bought a diesel 4wd and it has a long range tank, I have a sedate driving style and I'm getting about 8-8.5 litres per 100km, and therefore about 1600km from the tank depending on load and driving conditions.
Do a vid on how to install an auxiliary fuel cell or tank.
find a space,build a box,fit it..fuel cell for dummies..
tell me about it, I drive daily a 97 supercharged 4.5 petrol land cruiser with rack RTT barwork on 37s. Lol you have to be willing.
RFB!
What is your L/100km on that?
I am driving a Jeep Rubicon (2 dr) with a RTT & Gobi rack (heavy) loaded with a storage system in the rear and fully loaded with gear on just 32" tires and average about 15.9 MPG Hwy.
😂 I hear ya mate. Turbocharged 4.5lt petrol 105 Landcruiser which is my daily driver as well. Bit of barwork, 315MTs and auto. Goes well, about 20lt in town and 15lt highway at 100kmh. Happy with that.
All full size 4x4 cost a fair amount in fuel, petrol or diesel. Especially once you add mods and weight. Price I'm happy to pay with the places I can take my kids.
I like details and the way you present them. Keep on as I will probably deploy some of them on my newly bought 2009 Prado!
On a diesel, get a water methanol injection system, more power, more economy. It has shown to be very effective. Many use them to reduce exhaust temperatures for towing. About the power, they add about 25% more power, or 10-15HP per Litre, no tuning needed.
I got 2 toyota trucks 4runner (hilux surf 5VZFE) and a 100 series cruiser V8 gasoline. I replaced coil packs with all OEM and Denso TT spark plugs on cruiser and noticed an improvement in MPG. Currently at 230K miles and I get 7.11 Km per liter at 115 KmpH with cruise on. The rake at the rear end (rear end of the body 2-3 inches taller than the front: the factory setting) seems to improve the gas mileage as I experience with the 4runner. New sway bar bushings will also contribute to some MPG because it tries to keep the truck steady on the road helping to maintain good aerodynamic characteristics. I installed a bull bar on a hilux 106 diesel and right after that I noticed I cannot roll after a stop in the 2nd gear without revving the engine. Without the bullbar I can proceed from a stop in the 2nd gear at idle.
OEM brake pads have contributed to an increase in MPG. OEM air filter will surely improve the MPG. I witnessed all these in my trucks and wanted to share it with others. These are in addition to what Ronny said. Please make more videos....
Another point..... if you're driving a turbo charged rig (gas or diesel), try to determine the RPM at which the turbo starts really going to work. Keep the RPMs below that and you will save a TON of fuel.
On my 7.3L turbo diesel, 1850-1900 rpm and less consumes substantially less than 2000 plus rpm because at 2000 plus the turbo is stuffing enough air into the engine that the fuel system can stuff a whole lot more fuel into each cylinder full of air.
Turbo's are great for power when you need it and for maintaining power as you climb into higher altitudes (by maintaining fuel air loading in the cylinder) but they can destroy fuel economy as well.
Drive at 90. Less stress on the vehicle, less wind resistance. My Discovery does 6.9L/100km.
Bullshit
@@kindregardless Discovery owner, 100% agreed
@@neth77 speed limit is speed limit, easy
Edit: ofc he deleted his comment
If you want to drive slow that's fine, but let people pass please.
@@Shotty_Gunny And lots of people like to do the limit. Contrary to the belief it's the maximum safe speed no, roads are designed for much higher speeds so the posted speed limit is extremely safe. Just let people pass and everyone is happy. I encounter road hoggers who do 20 below and let's just say I've seen other people start major road rage over it.
Greast video, Ronny!
Maybe you can tell a bit about the effect of snorkels?
GREAT POINT on the chip tuning. It's a human nature issue. Those who are going to spend for a tune are the exact types (we're talking groups and stats here not any one individual) who are going to romp the fuel pedal, show off, etc. and undermine any fuel savings.
The roof tent and/or gobs of gear on a rack WILL kill fuel economy when at speed but when off road at slower speeds (where wind resistance is minimized) it is less of a concern. Wind resistance is a logarithmic function of speed (i.e. resistance increases exponentially -- more per MPH with each increase in MPH).....NOTE: so is the kinetic energy you will experience in a crash so lower speeds are exponentially safer..... This physics limitation completely explains your final point about speed and fuel economy as well as the big chunks in the wind portions. Wind resistance increases exponentially with speed.
Tire size. With bigger tires and wheels you increase friction but you also increase "rotational mass". An engineering term used to calculate how much inertia must be overcome to change the rotational speed. The higher the rotational mass the more energy (i.e. fuel) is required to make it start turning or turn faster (accelerate) as well as requiring more energy dissipation (i.e. brake heat/wear) to reduce rotational speed. While the braking issue doesn't decrease fuel economy, the increased energy required to overcome the increased rotation mass does affect fuel economy. AND as an added bonus, taller tires present a larger aerodynamic "plate" to further help reduce fuel economy.
Just some thoughts from a retired US Marine, mechanic, pilot, and physics bum
That's an unfortunate generalization on people who tune their vehicles.
I'll admit that we have some dorks over here in the US that love to turn their Rams, Silverado's and "F" series trucks just to pour coal out the pipes, but those of us who use the tune to improve the power, torque and throttle response know the value of a proper ECM/TCM tune to get much more out of the engine without harming it or the environment. And that saves fuel and makes the vehicle better for off-road and towing conditions. I'm running a Colorado with the 2.8L dmax and the tune transformed the truck into a pleasure to drive and enhanced the off road performance by an order of magnitude.
On a long flat run I use my GQ Patrol's hand throttle as the cruise control. Set it at 90km/h on the flat, if it varies a little that's ok. If you hit a big hill, put the foot on the throttle. Only bad thing is you need to remember to disengage the hand throttle before slowing down or changing gears.
Agree with the 90km/h. Car drives nicer, much more relaxed. Doesn't jump around so much with the 4" lift, less tiring. There's no race, just wind up the music.
And getting down around 10L/100km with 10psi on a TD42 puts a smile on the face.. It just purrs. And 1200+km from a 130 Lt tank isn't bad either.
I would be concerned about using throttle control except maybe on rough corrugated roads where you just want to plug along other wise could be very dangerous
If I am driving on freeway/highway, I will cruise at about 90km/h - this speed, even with roof top tent, seems to be the sweet spot - any faster and the aerodynamics (or lack of!) really hit the fuel consumption hard. My RTT is worse than many, because my rack is on 11" legs to clear the roof hump & factory rails on my Discovery 2. Oh, and it's V8 Auto. Last trip I did, fully set up for camping weekend, I averaged around 18L/100km. Very happy with that!
weight and speed............eat up fuel. Even worse is wind........if its windy back off to 80km/hr or stop and wait for the wind to drop. In some parts of Australia, the wind can be very bad in open country and really eats up fuel. Excellent advice.........dont tailgate heavy trucks day or night........truckies hate it and will even pull up to make cars pass.........I know I did. Also a lot of diesel vehicles getting around that have some age on them blow smoke like crazy.........thats wasted fuel, usually just the injectors need a service.
I’m suddenly realising that maybe I should wait until I actually need all the fancy things before I do anything to my ranger. Right now, I’m only legally able to go to work and the supermarket and right now, I could manage with a Prius
Ahoy Ronny,
As the previous post explained, aerodynamic drag is, amongst other factors, proportional to frontal area, and the velocity squared!
Frontal area, road friction and other factors add up of course, but not as much as higher velocity.
Driving the desert tracks very slowly, velocity and frontal area have small impact, other factors drive your economy.
Driving on bitumen highways at 110Km+ your velocity (& your frontal cross section) will drive your economy.
Hope this helps.
PS.
The Drag coefficient also grows as you get to Mach 1, and them drops off again!
Best to travel at much less than Mach 1, or over Mach 2, ideally at high altitude.
i got a 4x4 recently, and went up to selwyn snow feild NSW and on my way back down i hit black ice doing 20km or less, and slid into the barrier going down hill, luckily I was slow and just tapped it, bullbar helped me going round corner, stayed on my side of road tho
I need gears desparately! 35's on my Tacoma is struggling.
33's are about the biggest you can go on stock gearing for a tacoma
@@Googladesh Oh I am well aware haha. I had 33s but I bumped it up. I'll be picking up 5.29s soon
Amused. My Bronco prefers 38”+ over smaller tires. I actually get better economy if my tires are at least 28”.
Thank you Ronny
I usually do 130km/h down a steep hill and nothing up the hills, saves heaps of fuel.
All of these vehicles should have HHO kits installed. No power loss, a bit of HP gain, and up to %30-40 percent of fuel savings. It has become more common thing in the U.S now. There are small shops just doing this even for F350s.
PREACH! Love the only add the extra weight if its necessary! I found that out the hard way, and the expensive way lol
One more time you put everything together in a nice way which is very useful for most of users. I also have to submit that it is the first time that I hear from someone else what I always say about cruise control. I Totally agree with that. Cruise control is just for putting your legs in a relaxing position while traveling and that's all.
What I wanted to here and you didn't mention is if snorkel does effect in fuel economy. There are a lot of different opinions. So what's yours?
Also rpm difference between 90 and 110, I have a 2.1l and it makes a really really big difference, even 100 to 110 it means staying at 2500 and 3000 rpm. Big difference in fuel
I am just screwed all around. 2.8 gas (petrol) in a Jeep Cherokee XJ with 4.56 gears and no OD. Engine is WAY too small, and it gets a whopping 10 MPG, (23.5 l/100km). However, it won't use a full tank during a full weekend of off roading.
A snorkel and even upgraded exhaust can help your fuel economy somewhat
Happy fathers day Ronny
New 2012 amaroc drive home 1100ks arb canopy -150 ks hwytyres to at3 coopers approx ~ 50 3 bar roof rack ~ 80 front canopy bar removed front cab bar removable -70 ks arb Sahara bar -50 at best 800ks /80tank perhaps it’s done 48000ks
Do not use compressed air to clean air filters. Wash them. Above 80 km/h leave your windows closed and use the air cond. If towing, know what revs are best. Top gear might not be best ecconomy.
It's all about the right boot.. If I drive my cruiser at 96-97 kph it makes a huge difference. Keep the crap of the roof
THANKS, VIDEO AND YOUR DETAIL ON 4 WD AS THERE LOT CAN DO TO SAVE FUEL COST WHEN ARE TRAVELING
Great video Ronny. I will be building my truck and posting the build on my new channel starting this spring. I plan on a 38 gal fuel tank getting rid of the old 22 gal mid mount tank, I am running 265/75 R16 tires on it no need for extremely large tires. Plus I am fabing a steel military type bed for the truck which will be way lighter than the overly built flatbed that is on it. Being its petrol and the original engine is too underpowered for what its being set up for I am slightly increasing the size of the engine that will still bolt up safely to the factory gear box.
I replaced the stock 30" tires with 32" Michelin XZ's (heavy, but not wide military tires) on my BJ 60 and went from 25 Imp. mpg to 27 Imp. mpg on the highway. Max. speed was still slow. Off-road hill climbing suffered.
5.0L DI V8 AJ133 here, Best not to pay attention to the price on the pump. ;)
Mike Wesner that right..lol.. as long as they still make it
newer model 79s got regeared to lower the rpm's on the 79 id look into that change not saying you are wrong just wanted to let you know bud. love ya vids keep up the good work
Love the rhodesian ridgeback of yours, a bit chunky, have him more active and feed him better food! Great vid as usual, keep it going!
LOLZ... Did u call the doggo fat?
I remeber the UK road research centre calculated a roof rack on a Landrover added 20% to fuel consumption at 100kph!!
There's a story that adding the spare tyre on the bonnet improved fuel consumption, don't know how true it is!
Thanks Ronny.
Would like to hear your experience with the snorkel in relation to fuel efficiency. I am considering one for my petrol vehicle, but have heard very mixed reviews about it's effect on fuel consumption.
What about 200km/h? 🤣 I really can't recommend driving below 110 on our Autobahn, but then again, most 4x4 probably are not allowed and most modifications banned for some stupid reason. Quite useful though being able to drive fast.
throttle position is always the biggest cost of fuel think about it you can be at red line at light throttle or wot....in every truck and car iv had i got best fuel econamy if i use light throttle and just let the gearing move me down the road
Worth watching, fuel prices going up
Cruise control is good on flat roads. WA is a pretty good state for that.
Reving your engine to the rpm where it makes the most torque is the way to go up hard hills, obstacles and the like. Two reasons: It's the most efficient your engine will get, hence max torque right and, Captain Obvious, the most power!
Max torque and max power can happen at different rpm's mate..
@@Cchange4us I know, been building engines for decades, ran an dyno department for a large diesel engine shop etc...
Good for you, I'm just stating that it's not necessarily the position of max Power
When you say Cruise Control do you mean on or off road.
I know that when I started using my cruise control on road the fuel saving was quite considerable.
I know people will say that's a driver issue but I want to concentrate on other things when I drive like avoiding idiots.
As far as using CC off road, well I simply don't use it.
Jeep Rubicon Wranglers are geared for 35 inch tires also.
victoria, i need the bash bars and rock sliders.. and roof rack is essential, lucky they make them with the wind thingo now.
I drive a Ford V-10 - fuel consumption is a Captain Obvious.Anyway, on your current "remote desert" video series you have four very similar vehicles. Two 79 single cabs, two 79 double cabs. Give us a real world comparison of fuel consumption between those four vehicle and your take on why the worse is the worse and why the best is the best.Thanks.
Good tips, only thing I might disagree with is the cruise control. We have an Outlander (SUV, not a true 4x4) and tow our 1t camper with it. The car has a CVT gearbox and combined with cruise control is awesome on the highway. We normally go at around 90 - 95km/h as that is the best in terms of efficiency for our car and the weight we are pulling.
The cruise control in the Outlander will drop the speed a bit up hill before it engages the throttle and will just let the car coast down the hills. The dash gives me a live readout of the fuel consumption which is a great. I normally have that displaying the whole time so I can monitor it. Up some hills I will choose to disengage it and drop the speed to save fuel.
Outlander is NOT an SUV but a crossover.
Cruise control can make you a dangres driver as I have a automatic with this..
1 you can fall asleep quicker.
2 you will start to depend on cruise control.
3 you can lose the feel on peddle control on where you put your foot
And get a lead foot.
No need to do speed Limit Go 2 or 3 mph slower Will save you money and NO TICKETS so learn YOU WILL SAVE AND MAYBE SAVE YOUR (LIFE)
I agree with everything you say ronnie apart form the recommending of a landcruiser
Loving your vids ronny! Ive been searching for a 4runner here in europe for 4 months now. They are really hard to come by with only 70 being sold st the moment. Trying to get the 3l diesel. Watching your videos as prep 🚀
try germany and northern europe they seem to have it, if you can't find it consider importing , if that's too expensive consider a patrol
null yep checking around, found one in austria but its missing some paperwork i need to register. I think ill have to consider petrol at some point, italy seems to have quite a few of those. Or maybe importing! Thanks for the tip!
I would caution the "coasting" comment for down hill, would not recommend putting in neutral and coasting down hill especially towing. you will not have as much control and can cause "run away" if your brakes aren't up to it.
Putting in neutral use more fuel, as the engine has to run on its own, in gear it get pushed by the wheels/momentum
Dubious depends, the engine at idle doesn’t use much fuel, so retaining momentum like that can outweigh the cost.
I think he was referring to when you leave it in gear and take your foot off the accelerator, not putting in neutral
You can coast in gear and without using a clutch, just don't use the accelerator, I think this is what he was referencing, cheers :)
Coasting is illegal in the UK....or at least it was when I passed my test in 1990 lol.
Don't need a bigger engine to tow I think. My 130 Td5 with a 2.5 litre 5 cylinder diesel will probably use less fuel than a V8 cruiser while towing, or in any other application.
I once towed a smaller trailer with my 4.2 petrol V8 Range Rover classic auto and got 13 litres per 100km on a 500 kilometre trip and that was with a Defender roof strapped to some roof bars as well! The speed was never higher than 80 km/h as it is the speed limit while towing in Sweden. That makes for safe and fuel efficient towing!
Hey Ronny another comparassion you should do is ute vs wagon. Keep up the great work.
Ronnie didn’t mention the difference in MT-AT tires in weight and rolling resistance in the same size my MT load E tires are 12-18 pounds heavier than a AT and 20+ heavier than a street tire all same size. Great video Ron, it seems to me like every single thing I did to my truck cost 1 mpg per item.
He won't, he loves his big Tyres
You're new hilux has adaptive cruise control. It saves fuel. My Tacoma gets better fuel mileage with adaptive cruise control. Not sure if the computer is right but it goes down by 1 liter per/100
Speaking of Cruise Control. I believe those of you who have ADAPTIVE CC are the ones getting braking going down hill. Had to turn that system off (among a few other "safety systems") on a new Honda. Thing drove me crazy, braking downhill, slowing too aggressively when following a car down the highway. Lag in accelerating back to set point speed on level ground and on hills. Terrible system. The systems on my truck and some VW diesels I own have nice simple CC systems that coast downhills (assuming enough gradient) and power up hills much more rapidly than that of the Honda system. Had the Honda for a year and got rid of it.. Too many nanny state systems on it!