Boy, you make this complicated piece of work a piece of cake!!!!! Not only are you meticulous but you are also a 'homeboy', providing the needed simplified method to press in races. Kudos!!!!
Awesome video mate. My LHR bearing collapsed coming home from a trip over the weekend, preparing to rebuild using this exact method in a few days time. Couldn't be a better video - perfect!! Cheers! Mitch, HZJ78R, NSW Australia
That is great!! I just got a 94 FZJ80... driving it home, the engine imploded. Now I am having a mechanic put a Used one in with 50k miles on it... It is costing about 5500 for the engine swap- everything else I want to do myself.. so these will be a great resource.. !! Thanks
I've been turning wrenches for over 40 years (most of them earning a living) and I have to tell you I am impressed by two things. First is I have a bit more respect for the Land Cruiser rear axle design, well thought out for reliability and simple to service. Second, you are a very good, broad skilled mechanic, I think you have a future with spanners should you ever decide to hang up you Fireman hat.
Great video. I just happen to see cause it was on my suggestion List. Didn't need the info but glad there are people here that are genuinely glad to help others.
Fantastic videography, thank you so much for taking the time to post such an informative and visually descriptive procedure. I also really appreciate you stating the 12mm bolts you used in the pull the axle! Well done!!
Great video with just the right amount of detail and speed of moving to the next task. Nice work. I've got this service to do before winter so was very helpful. Clay
From an old bush mechanic - NEVER use a surface with any 'give' (like the tray of the ute in this video ) as an 'anvil. (Perhaps it was for the video perspective in this case?) At least a piece of hardwood on hard ground or concrete! Thanks from Australia for the post Mate
@dardarwin01 This will stop the leakage at the wheel hubs on the rear end, if it is leaking where the driveshaft meets the differential then you need to replace the pinion seal.
My 80 and I thank you for these videos!!! Cannot imagine tackling what I have without these. On pressing in the races, what if I dont have a press, per se? Carefully knocking in with a race tool is safe, yes?
@AlmondCharles Great and glad I could help! the best manual is the toyota factory manual, you can find online versions if you try a google search. Thanks again!
Now I'm doing the rear hubs on my 80 I have been asking people about sealing (or not) around the cone washer seats and most people say not to put sealant there. I was able to locate the proper tool for the lockring so should be able to use that for setting the pre-load along with my torque wrench.
awesome videos my friend! very helpful. I want to ask why do we do the process with the locking nut at the end. After we finish it is suppose to be at the locking position right?
Great advice. Gotta be sure to cut the old race like you showed. If someone was to tap the new race in with the old race without cutting it, the old race could get really stuck in there. Or so I've heard... LOL. :)
My 80 is a 3/92 with rear disk brakes not drum brakes. What differences would there be compared to 80's with drum brakes? Removing the calipers obviously so the brake disks can be remove. I believe the hub seals are different between drum and disk brake configurations. Also has anyone done a video on replacing the 80's rear diff centre as I need to replace mine (very bad bearing whine) or get the current one rebuilt. Thanks. Craig.
Do NOT beat the hell out of the axle flange. If you had a factory service manual, and you can read, it's clear that you use a soft punch (aluminum or brass) and firmly tap the end of the bolt, which releases the tapered cones. Once they are loose, a small (1/8" wide) flat bladed screwdriver wedged in the edge facilitates removal. Beating the side of the flange distorts the surface, makes the axle hard to seal, eventually destroys it, and shows the world how not to do things.
@danman1178 Awe thats too bad! My friend has one here for 300, mind you it has 200000 on it but still runs great! Make aure you change out the little collant hose while the engine is out, its a real pain in the butt when you have to do it in the truck.
hey just re doing my bearings and wondering about the sealer… doesn't gluing it up with sealer make it near impossible to open up next time? i could imagine taking the cone washers out would be a nightmare?
Hey mate, nice video I was trying to pause but couldn’t quite work it out, I’ve got a hzj75 and noticed a slow leak on my passenger rear hub, just curious as to how many dowels should be in the hub? As there are currently 2 with 2 blank holes? I think one is missing?
Tackled this job a year ago, turns out the passenger side was not too bad, the drivers side had already leaked enough grease to seize the bearing to the axle, that was a bastard to pull off!!!
@ned900 prrelaod means the amount of force in pounds that it takes to move the hub - so yes i attach the scale and pull - it is not perfect but it works, for years i did it with nothing but i don't suggest that. please follow the manual as I cannot give advice on exact specifications without seeing something in person. All cruisers are different of course. Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial! Do you know the part numbers for the inner and outer bearings? Also the seal and any paper gasket needed? My driver side is leaking behind the dust cover and would like to have all parts needed prior to beginning. Thank you!!
hi, im wondering about the preload, i have the service manual, it says 600kg-cm (43ft-lb, 59n.m) however i dont have a clue what that means (lol) what weight did it say on your scale? i can understand that. cheers
Love the series of videos and appreciate the effort that goes into them. However you should never put sealant under the cones. It will result in broken axle studs. Once again not having a whinge just pointing it out. 👍🏻
Wow...i have never seen someone trust a jack so much. For anyone wanting to do this, ALWAYS place axle stands under the vehicle. He is wrong to leave in on the jack, because at any point it could give up and drop the vehicle down and damage the braking components, which will cost A LOT of money to fix. Point made.
+Fraser Gordon Floor jack failures happen. I had my floor jack fail on me the other day. Lots of use finally wore out the piston main seal. I always put the car on floor jacks. I was using it to support the engine while installing an engine mount. Turned around after getting something from the tool box to see the floor jack no longer supporting the engine.
Boy, you make this complicated piece of work a piece of cake!!!!! Not only are you meticulous but you are also a 'homeboy', providing the needed simplified method to press in races. Kudos!!!!
Nice work. I don't know of many people who are that thorough, especially with the sealant etc. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video mate. My LHR bearing collapsed coming home from a trip over the weekend, preparing to rebuild using this exact method in a few days time. Couldn't be a better video - perfect!! Cheers! Mitch, HZJ78R, NSW Australia
Glad it helped
The sealant on the flange was a nice touch, I will follow your process with my bearing replacement.
That is great!! I just got a 94 FZJ80... driving it home, the engine imploded. Now I am having a mechanic put a Used one in with 50k miles on it... It is costing about 5500 for the engine swap- everything else I want to do myself.. so these will be a great resource.. !! Thanks
I've been turning wrenches for over 40 years (most of them earning a living) and I have to tell you I am impressed by two things. First is I have a bit more respect for the Land Cruiser rear axle design, well thought out for reliability and simple to service. Second, you are a very good, broad skilled mechanic, I think you have a future with spanners should you ever decide to hang up you Fireman hat.
Great video. I just happen to see cause it was on my suggestion List. Didn't need the info but glad there are people here that are genuinely glad to help others.
Fantastic videography, thank you so much for taking the time to post such an informative and visually descriptive procedure. I also really appreciate you stating the 12mm bolts you used in the pull the axle! Well done!!
There are a few instances that bolts can be used to pull things off. Axel's, brake drums, steering wheels. That's the designers thinking ahead 👍
Great video with just the right amount of detail and speed of moving to the next task. Nice work. I've got this service to do before winter so was very helpful. Clay
Thanks you couldn't have made it look any easier, all the important info covered. Good Job.
awesome detail work and we'll done very meticulous .l can tell that you are a very thoughtful mechanic
very usefull video! I have a 1983 Fj-60... i´ll be watching this again while doing the service to my ride... thanxs
From an old bush mechanic - NEVER use a surface with any 'give' (like the tray of the ute in this video ) as an 'anvil. (Perhaps it was for the video perspective in this case?) At least a piece of hardwood on hard ground or concrete! Thanks from Australia for the post Mate
hi thats a fantastic video i am from saudia arabia and i work on fj40s restoration great work dude❤
This video helped me out a bunch.
Note: if you have factory lockers, lock them before taking the axle out.
why?
yeah why
@dardarwin01 This will stop the leakage at the wheel hubs on the rear end, if it is leaking where the driveshaft meets the differential then you need to replace the pinion seal.
My 80 and I thank you for these videos!!! Cannot imagine tackling what I have without these. On pressing in the races, what if I dont have a press, per se? Carefully knocking in with a race tool is safe, yes?
It's been said many time before but thank you for these great posts! FSMs and other manuals are great resources but a video is so much better.
@AlmondCharles Great and glad I could help! the best manual is the toyota factory manual, you can find online versions if you try a google search. Thanks again!
yes bu the locking tab just holds it in place - as the bearings and races wear the nuts will loosen.
I remember doing it that way many times. It's an easy job, unlike trying to change the wheel bearings on an bloody xtrail
More coming! waterpump change out, timing belt replacement and more!
I just started with 4x4s and I have an "83 FJ60. This old content is invaluable. Many thanks.
Now I'm doing the rear hubs on my 80 I have been asking people about sealing (or not) around the cone washer seats and most people say not to put sealant there. I was able to locate the proper tool for the lockring so should be able to use that for setting the pre-load along with my torque wrench.
I don't understand how this could get any thumbs down. Excellent how to video. Thanks
@MerlinxPV Thanks very much Merlin! I enjoy doing the work and always love to learn while I am doing it.
@oyamum when you align the notches it means the holes are aligned so you can put the retaining screws in. Thanks for watching!
Nice instructional. I figured the old race trick too when doing trailer bearings.
How does that synthetic grease hold up?
No problem at all - thanks for watching and your support!
awesome videos my friend! very helpful. I want to ask why do we do the process with the locking nut at the end. After we finish it is suppose to be at the locking position right?
@TheCrs111 Glad you liked it! More coming as soon as this rain stops!
Just to confirm, the spindles are greased as well, even where the bearings sit? Thanks.
@RJ7088 Glad I could help and thanks for watching!
Great advice. Gotta be sure to cut the old race like you showed. If someone was to tap the new race in with the old race without cutting it, the old race could get really stuck in there. Or so I've heard... LOL. :)
will this stop a leakage from deferential it comes out of the rear end
The scale is used for what? Just curious. Great video
Man this is one great video!
Thanks for taking the time to make it.
@craigdewick check out my 100 series rear brake service - it should be just about the same as your 80. havent done a diff replacement yet.
How hard is changing the rear bearing . The shop wants 700 to do it . I’m thinking about doing it myself .
@craigdewick ya you don't really need to - i thought it might keep the rust out inthis salty environment but it really doesn.t
Great video, very informative and helpful!!
@jim808mp lol, I'd do it if I hd one to work on! You can use my Lexus 470 rear brake tutorial - it is very similar though.
Thanks for sharing this video, interesting and informative.👍
@lshobie we use kg here, does that mean it sould take approx 20kg of pulling force to move the hub? sorry im clueless, the hub is currently apart.
My 80 is a 3/92 with rear disk brakes not drum brakes. What differences would there be compared to 80's with drum brakes? Removing the calipers obviously so the brake disks can be remove. I believe the hub seals are different between drum and disk brake configurations. Also has anyone done a video on replacing the 80's rear diff centre as I need to replace mine (very bad bearing whine) or get the current one rebuilt. Thanks. Craig.
Thanks heaps mate, got me through a service. legend!!!
How to remove if the axle nut is broken?
Do NOT beat the hell out of the axle flange. If you had a factory service manual, and you can read, it's clear that you use a soft punch (aluminum or brass) and firmly tap the end of the bolt, which releases the tapered cones. Once they are loose, a small (1/8" wide) flat bladed screwdriver wedged in the edge facilitates removal.
Beating the side of the flange distorts the surface, makes the axle hard to seal, eventually destroys it, and shows the world how not to do things.
Your Videos make a lot of sense
I have trouble with align the notches ?
MATE YOU ARE A MASTER!!! I WILL SAVE 700$ THANKS TO YOU!! CHEERS!!!
@danman1178 Awe thats too bad! My friend has one here for 300, mind you it has 200000 on it but still runs great! Make aure you change out the little collant hose while the engine is out, its a real pain in the butt when you have to do it in the truck.
with factory diff lockers are they meant to be locked before removing the axles?
hey just re doing my bearings and wondering about the sealer… doesn't gluing it up with sealer make it near impossible to open up next time? i could imagine taking the cone washers out would be a nightmare?
80 series as well?
You are good teacher Louis!
Did you need to drain the rear differential fluid before removing the axle?
Hey mate, nice video I was trying to pause but couldn’t quite work it out, I’ve got a hzj75 and noticed a slow leak on my passenger rear hub, just curious as to how many dowels should be in the hub? As there are currently 2 with 2 blank holes? I think one is missing?
2 dowels mate!
Tackled this job a year ago, turns out the passenger side was not too bad, the drivers side had already leaked enough grease to seize the bearing to the axle, that was a bastard to pull off!!!
Thank you sir.. Especially for the tips on installing the races. I am so poaching that trick.
@JensEskildsen Thanks Jens!
@ned900 prrelaod means the amount of force in pounds that it takes to move the hub - so yes i attach the scale and pull - it is not perfect but it works, for years i did it with nothing but i don't suggest that. please follow the manual as I cannot give advice on exact specifications without seeing something in person. All cruisers are different of course.
Thanks for watching!
Nice job!!
Can you tell me please the rear axle seal code? Thanks!
Great tutorial! Do you know the part numbers for the inner and outer bearings? Also the seal and any paper gasket needed? My driver side is leaking behind the dust cover and would like to have all parts needed prior to beginning. Thank you!!
Oops, is a 97 with full float axle and center lock only
No sorry I cant help!
hi, im wondering about the preload, i have the service manual, it says 600kg-cm (43ft-lb, 59n.m)
however i dont have a clue what that means (lol) what weight did it say on your scale? i can understand that. cheers
I threw drum hub retainer screw
Do you need them ?
I am ordering complete front and rear hub bearings for my Toyota landcruiser 2006 model. How many sets of bearings do I need?
Fantastic vid! Thanks for your time making these!
Well done man thanks' I have learn a lot today, good video to well done.
What is the cause of back wheels not moving
broken axle
transfer in neutral.
nice vid guys, all the info I needed ,Thanks
Great job thanks for sharing this information.
Great demonstration
Not a problem - I make them for you guys!
clever vid and heaps helped,love the tricks too.
Thank you for all your videos...
de que año le puede quedar para una toyota tacoma 2000
el diferencial de que año
Hi, do you still remember what are the torque numbers for installations? Thanks!
Who cares about torque numbers, I've never used them in my life and have never had issues.
I can not get my axle back in to diff help please
@luloadventure Thanks Lulo!
Love the series of videos and appreciate the effort that goes into them. However you should never put sealant under the cones. It will result in broken axle studs.
Once again not having a whinge just pointing it out. 👍🏻
Great advice thanks
Yes very good point.
More coming!
Thank you for watching!
clearly never wants to get those cones out ever again
5 of those are stronger than 6 of the old ones:)
@KYOANSHIKI More videos coming!
Great video.
thanks for sharing.... very helpful..
👍👍👍great video
nice vedio its very helpful
@darthvincor Yes everything gets grease!
My 79 has disc all round
You're a god.
great job
that was nice and smart
amazing works
Wow...i have never seen someone trust a jack so much. For anyone wanting to do this, ALWAYS place axle stands under the vehicle. He is wrong to leave in on the jack, because at any point it could give up and drop the vehicle down and damage the braking components, which will cost A LOT of money to fix. Point made.
+Fraser Gordon Floor jack failures happen. I had my floor jack fail on me the other day. Lots of use finally wore out the piston main seal. I always put the car on floor jacks. I was using it to support the engine while installing an engine mount. Turned around after getting something from the tool box to see the floor jack no longer supporting the engine.
Should take a look at the 5:40 mark.
One would see 2 stands and 1 jack.
Wait, when I put that inner axle seal in I punched it down to the bevel I thought that's where it sealed 😂 am I fucked now?
Great Video thanks so much@
worthwile to replace the axle seal aswell. they are cheap
the fact I have to do all this to service a brake cylinder is a bit much..