How I Got My Chainsaw Started After 3 Years of Not Using It - EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
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As stated in the video I'm posting this one by popular demand, I had not used my chainsaw in 3 years and I needed to get it started, these are the methods that I employed to do that and I was successful. If you have questions about small engines or have issues with them I highly recommend you check out these channels.
Donyboy73
www.youtube.com...
Backwoodsctryboy
www.youtube.com...
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Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
i bought a chainsaw that could not start for 20 bucks someone that I think had dug it out of someones trash pile.. but they wanted 20 bucks.... i watched a few of these how to videos.. i pulled off cover .. yanked spark plug... cleaned end from BLACK back to shiny.. used thin razor to scrape off carbon.. then cleaned off air filter, bought fresh gas ..mixed in the 2 cycle oil, filled up the bar and chain oil with bar and chain oil.. sticky looks like syrup... then pushed the little bubble to prime it and it started on second pull and runs like a tiger.. cut a tree branch and its chain is sharp.. OMG I love you tube how to videos... I am a 49 year old lady. lol thanks you guys!!!
Katfishkelly M TH-cam is great. Great job on the Diy.
That's not so old!
Katfishkelly M
If you are feeling interested see if you can get someone to cut a hoke by the starter and you can use a drill in reverse to start it because the drill will keep cycling the starter really really fast
That is awesome mam
best way to clean a spark plug is to use a hand held propane torch, then wipe of with cloth. Burns off carbon, old fuel that turned bad.
I have an old Sears chainsaw my Father bought 30 years ago. It hasn't run in at least 20 years and still has the same gas/oil mix. Because of this video, I went out to the garage and it fired after 4 pulls and ran good. I have a gardener, so I gave it to my neighbor.
When I shut my saw off, I pull the starter cord out a few inches first, and hold it while I hit the shut off switch. If you notice in your video, when you thumbed the ignition switch, the saw kicked at the very end, as the engine stopped. It recoils against the cylinder compression and springs backward. This yanks the starter handle inward against the case, and will wear out the cord over time. Better to let it yank on your hand as the engine stops. I don't remember where I learned this.
nice vid man, thanks for the shout out, i was wondering where all the subs came from, lol
Big windstorm due and went out to try my chainsaw that had been sitting for about 2 years. It was so hard to pull the cord it about broke my arm. Tried pulling the plug and spraying some thin lube ( not WD 40) . Worked the piston for about 2 to 3 minutes til it loosened up. Put the plug back in and it started right up. Vids like yours have saved me so much time and money in the repair shops over the years. Thank you again. Great video .
Thank you for your informative videos ! I'm no mechanic but have developed the sense that running all of the fuel out by running the small engines until they die and then restarting and restarting until your arm all but falls off restarting until you can definitely not get them to run again is key to prevent fuel in the carb from "tarnishing" the carburetors internals. This apparently leads to being able to always have a small engine start right up each season. Thanks again man !
Having messed about with 2 strokes a lot in my youth , if you are going to lay one up for a while 1 ) dump the gas out & run ' till all the system is drained ( the mix of oil & gas can gum things up , carb jets etc ) 2 ) remove the plug , put a squirt of 4 stroke engine oil in the barrel ( plug removed ) and pull the starter a few time ( it will throw lub round the barrel , rings & exhaust port ) then put the plug back in & hang it so any excess oil will drain into the crank case 3 ) put a date label on it of when you layed it up , and if you can once a year go back and run it , 'till heated full through & lubed heavily & then go through the lay up procedure again . It will keep everything sweet & ready to roll . NB . When you have put a gobit of oil in the barrel , ensure you have pulled the stater over a few time ( to drive out excess oil ) before putting the spark plug back in . LIQUID DO'NT COMPRESS , and a piston meeting too much liquid , may damage the engine !
I love the end when you put on your glasses and show your chainsaw joy. :) Note to everyone: use the highest octane your area provides on these. My neighbor was a landscaper and at one point filling up at the gas station another professional said hey, don't do that. I hear there's less or no ethanol in that and these engines have extra problems with ethanol. He noticed it helped.
ethanol is the killer of two stroke engines. the reason why is ethanol is hygroscopic, and will pull humidity from the air, which will water down the gas. when the gas sits for quite some time, it will eventually pull in so much water it will stratify, or separate, with the ethanol/water mix sinking, and the gasoline/oil mix rising to the top. If you get the saw to run, you will be burning the ethanol/water mix, starving the engine for oil and you can kiss that engine goodbye.
now ethanol has a higher octane rating than gasoline, so i was under the impression that the higher octane fuels had more ethanol than the lower octane fuels, so you might be worse off buying the more expensive gas.
but no matter what, you really don't want to let gas sit around exposed to humidity. be sure to keep it in a tightly sealed container and use a fuel stabilizer. gas tanks on small engines are not tightly sealed, so better to pour the gas out and run them dry if you plan to store for more than a few months(which tends to turn into several years before you know it). never run old gas without at least mixing in a decent amount of new gas to prevent stratification which will destroy a 2 cycle engine.
i'll give you a shout out too in the future
this video reminds me of when my uncle said "fix the chainsaw and you can have it!" so me being 12 and adventurous I spent the next hour fiddling cleaning changing the gas, oil and spark plug. got it running. He didn't really let me keep it. so it was a little disappointing.
did later in time fix a lawn mower though, lol.
On a note of small engines, I just got my 3 year old Husvarnia 128LD trimmer out of the shop the other day to have the carbueator replaced becuase I left the old gas in it all winter long and the weird thing is the 2 cycle oil that I mix with the gas says that it has fuel stablizer in it. The shop recomends that no matter what to burn the remaining fuel out of it at the end of the season. Also they helped my dump the remaining 1/2 gallon of mixed fuel so not to contaminate the enviroment.
I am old fashioned. I do it right by the book. I put exactly one gallon of non-ethanol, premium, in my type 2 gas tank with on 2.6 ounce container of Stihl "Ultra", fully synthetic two cycle oil. I even rinse the oil container out a few times to make sure I get all the oil out. I also add one ounce of Briggs & Stratton AFT fuel stabilizer to the tank. my gas is good for two years or more and equals Stihl's Moto mix, which costs $8 a quart. I run it in all of my stihl and husqvarna saws and my other 50:1 equipment. I do not use E-10 in anything but my 5K generator and it uses Startron protected E10
Eric you may not be a small engine wrench but you are an automotive master and your videos are just short of genius. Thanks for the videos you have put on here .They have made it possible for me to be able to load my saw into my pickup and haul to someone who knows small engines! ( Cuz walkin down the road with a chainsaw in one hand looks a little odd...🤣) Again thanks!!!
according to my stihl manual ,when you aren't going to use your'e chainsaw for a year and more, you should run the chainsaw until it runs out of gas, then fill the chain lube tank and that's it, worked for me, my saw had been sitting over a year and when i needed it it started just as easy as the summer before
Eric, wanted you to know after more than 6 months of not running my chainsaw did not want to start which even had old gas in the tank. After seeing your video, I followed what was on your clip. I bought a new plug, emptied the old gas replaced it with new premixed gas, put some sea foam in the cylinder, I pulled the rope and it fired on the first pull. I was amazed. I could not believe it and after a few more pulls, it was running. Thank you for providing your video which helped me keep it out of the shop and a repair bill. Thanks again.
I read that when NOT using a chainsaw for a long time, it's better to
-empty the fuel tank,
-let it run until the engine stops by itself
-then store it.
Not sure if it's a good solution, but i read it and thought i'd share it.
Now, mine is sitting for 2 months now, unused, with some fuel left in the tank. And was lazy to do that, but i'll try it as soon as i get back to the countryside.
sure is, although then you need to work the priming pump a bit more. but at least it is not going to go bad in there, which will make starting it easier.
also, i believe som types of gasoline can actually eat away rubber parts such as various hoses, so doing it because of that is also a good idea. could not do any harm.
Correct. especially with ethanol fuel but all gasoline leaves varnish when it evaporates and all gasoline can mix with atmospheric moisture.
*Mechanic* *In* *A* *Bottle* is supposed to be good for stuck gummy carbs (no disassembly). When my saw gets flooded and I need to wide open the throttle to crank it, I set it on the ground, stick my foot in the handle, then take a wooden wedge to slide over the top of my shoe to press up on the throttle fully. Throttle goes back to idle as soon as I take my foot out.
I kinda do the same... shot of starter fluid into the carb holding full throttle, give it a pull, let it idle until it cuts out and then just go nuts with the pull cord until it idles again... then slowly apply throttle just to the point it chokes and hold it there until it smooths... Then, When it stops sputtering I rev the nuts off it like a ricer in a Civic!!!
The best way to clean your spark plugs on any type of gasoline engine, if you do not have a plug sand blaster, is to take a piece of emery cloth or sand paper and clean the electrode and ground strap off until bear metal is showing and blow off very good with compressed air, break parts cleaner or carb and choke cleaner works well too. After you have cleaned it regap the plug and reinstall.
This video was pretty helpful because I was given my grandpas chainsaw which was a stihl ms210 it sat for a few years and it wouldn't start that's until I watched this video and got the idea on how to fix it runs fine now and can cut through wood like nothing. I was getting tired of using a poulan pro which didnt want to cut it was sharp and almost brand new.
That's the long way to start a saw, Full choke and pull the cord until it burps. Then push the choke in and either pull that cord quickly until it fires or drop start it with your finger on the throttle. Also I agree with the lower comment somewhat. Dump the old gas out, wash it out with straight gas, and then fill it with mix. BTW: cute little saw ;)
Thanks for the video. I put 2 stroke fuel in the spark plug chamber (about 10-20 ml), and then I pull out the hi/low/idle screws and put fuel into that as well using a syringe/needle. Kicks over in 3-7 pulls. Now, if you carby's needle is stuck (due to old fuel turning to glue), then the carby needs to be flushed with fresh fuel to de-clog. Once you've done these, you're guaranteed a definite run given everything else is fine - good spark plug, clean fuel lines, good wiring, etc.
One thing beside all this that I believe helped me out was to just cheat and buy a can of premixed fuel from the hardware store. Just to ensure that I had an accurate mix.
I basically followed your directions and BINGO ,it started i used safety features also you stated ,something we dont always think of .
Top off all fluids (dump old gas first if it has been sitting), prime by pressing bulb, then apply full choke and pull cord until it fires, then half choke it until it you can get it to run without choke. It's easy!
I have a husqvarna from 1978. It stil runs great after all those years. I dont use it every year. So what i do is just always run it dry. Dont keep the gas in ther for more than a couple of months. Make sure to release the tention on the chaine when you store it for a long time. When you want to use it after a longer time make sure the engine is still loose by pulling the cord verry carefullie. When the cord is not moving dont go janking on it, you will kill the engine.
Old gas turns into a varnish.
I rebuilt an old carb once and what was left of the gas was a white powder.
The varnish can gum things up, especially in cars.
Taryl Dactyl. I learned from him about making sure to use to correct amount of Seafoam i.e. 1 oz. per gallon. And don't mix in the tanK. He knows about people who just splash that Seafoam in the tank and then the fuel lines get eaten up. Anyway, great video and enjoyable. You're one of my favorites too!
I am glad you showed us that and I have a Poulan saw now which don't starts and a Stihl which is hard to start and don't want to pay over two hundred dollars for them to be fixed doing the same procedure you showed us. I thank you for that information so much.
Thanks for the info, This is how I look good tinkering with old chainsaws. Clean the unit including filters. remove all old gas, replace with the proper mix. I always service the chain before attempting to start. I lube, hand cycle the chain a few times to be sure to work out any kinks. Tighten as needed or remove altogether, pull plug, few squirts of tranny fluid or other lube like fogging oil, wd 40, pull the starter rope with the plug out, while the plug is out I will clean and gap, connect to plug wire and check for spark. wire quick check for compression is just my thumb over the plug hole and pull start rope a few times feel the compression, a squirt of wd 40 in the cylinder, install plug. set choke ,prime bulb ,Pull starter until it murmurs a little off with the choke and away you go hopefully I put a tie wrap on the spark plug wire just in case I need to shut down in a hurry as I had one cut out system fail before damn near ruined a stihl 024, this is pretty simple stuff but a lot of people have not learned it. Thanks to TH-cam users sharing info we are a more capable crowd.
I like everything you said in this video because I am lacking background information on small gas engines. I'm watching lots of videos trying to understand how this stuff works and you have helped tremendously Eric. This is one of the best videos I've seen so far. Thank you for taking your time to share your knowledge on this subject.
thanks Eric! Followed your advice, and would have started on second pull except I accidentally turned the switch off before starting to pull. Once i realized, it was fired and going it two pulls!
I got an old nitro rc car I bought.. Had to do pretty much everything you did. New gas, new plug, Sprayed WD-40 is plug. Pulled it a few times to get piston moving. The started right up
Also, if you expect not to use the saw for a while, you can put in some fuel stabilizer as most of you probably know. In addition, the additives, that are highly recommended to use with the ethanol fuels especially with small engines, have a fuel stabilizer in them. They don't protect the saw forever though.
Best thing, is to run the fuel completely out of the saw if you know you're not going to use it for a long time. In reality though, few of us ever know that we're not going to use the saw for a long time and, leave fuel in the tank.
good comments. also, you can dump the fuel out if you leave it too long.
If you only use chainsaw once in a while; only use ready mix gas and oil sold at your local chainsaw dealer. It has high octane and has a shelf life of 2-3 years, no more problems with your chainsaw gumming up after that.
I used to sell and service Echo for about 10 years, I love their chain saws.
Cool vid man. Just a lil piece of info also. Stihl (and I'm pretty sure some other companies prob have it also) has a special pre mixed 2 stroke fuel that is ethynol free and has a 2+ year shelf life. It's a 50:1 mix that uses Stihl synthetic 2stroke oil. During the summer I use my regular pre mixed fuel (I always use a good quality synthetic oil.) because it is a little pricey, about $7.50 for a 32oz can. But when I go to put my tools in storage for any length of time I replace the fuel with the Stihl fuel and when I pull them out in the spring they fire up just like the day I put them away. Thx again for the vid and keep up the good work.
Sta-Bil 360 Marine, it has anti-corrosion treatment and gets rid of problems associated with ethanol.
i have used a wire brush for years on my spark plugs and never had no issues
Same
Me too, I wonder why he said that you shouldn't
"Taryl fixes all" is a best small engine repairing channel that I've found. And he is funny too
I know that Briggs & Stratton have some fuel stabilizer for E10 fuel (unleaded fuel with 10% ethanol),I'm not sure what Honda have because they don't recommend using fuel with ethanol in it in their lawn equipment.
It's best to empty the fuel out before storing it.
I've noticed when the fuel & oil is actually mixed up to the 50:1 ratio that the 2 strokes don't emit much if any blue smoke.
I have to lap the valves & likely reset the valve clearance (grind the valve stem ends) in my Briggs & Stratton 3.5 horsepower mower as its idle is a bit rough because both valves leak.
I got the valve lapping stick today but was held up because my mother reversed her 2000 model Toyota Corolla into a tree the other night, so I've spent the last couple of days pulling the dents out the best that I can.
A smash repair place would just fit another boot lid but I'm trying to save her money,I just need a job so I can buy all of the body filler,paint, primer & tools to fix it.
It will be the first time for me painting in 1k metallic acrylic lacquer (evergreen mica 6W3) as I've only painted with a solid colour before.
The car was painted with 2k epoxy (2 pack) paint at the factory & it is toxic & illegal to stay it outside of a spray booth.
I have read that isocyanate free 2k paint is available now & can be used outside of a spray booth,I just have to do my research on it.
I got an old Poulan featherlite weed eater running for someone after it quit starting.
It needed a new fuel line and fuel filter, so I took care of that first. Took the engine apart and cleaned the (very thick) carbon build-up off the piston and top of cylinder. Replaced the spark plug. And it still wouldn't start.
Took the carburetor apart and found it had a major clogging issue. Cleaned it up, put it back on, and then it started first time I pulled the cord.
I always mix, "Stabil" gas treatment with my gas/oil mix on my old Lawnboy 2 stroke lawnmower. It always starts. Stabil also corrects the ethanol corrosion in the 10% ethanol gas we get for our cars.
I use an Electric Chain Saw, not because it's cheaper but, because I have had bad luck with rental gas chain saws. Since I purchased the Electric Chain Saw, ten years ago, Donyboy73 helped me to prepare my rear-tine gas tiller and my two stage gas snow thrower for long term storage. Now, I would probably feel comfortable trying to own a gas chain saw, ten years later. With the cost of the Makita Electric Chain Saw and the heavy gaige extension cords, I could have afforded a pretty nice gas chain saw.
Eric, you seem to have a natural talent with this small engine. I know fuel stabilizer would not help a chain saw in long term storage since fuel stabilizer does preserve fuel for years and years. I would say that that getting the fuel completely evacuated from the carburetor, fuel line, and gas tank on the chain saw would be one of the strategies for long term storage. Donyboy73 gave me the tips I needed to get all of the fuel out of my two-stage gas snow thrower. A 99 cent cooking baster came handy for that procedure.
Thank you. Replaced spark plug and used your method. Started right up!
After trying for hours to try to get my chain saw started (which was sitting idle for more than a year) what worked for me is to pull the choke out all the way and push it down a little. Thanks for the tip!
always drain the fuel and put in fresh stuff when gas is held in such a small quantity it will go bad 10x faster. My buddy had a tractor that sat with really little bit if fuel in the bottom of tank for only five years. that fuel turned from gas to a yellow gel to a brown rock solid block in fact the only way we could get the tractor to run was to remove the tank and drill a hole through through the fuel leadout through rock solid fuel.
Cleaning the carb and air filter also is a good idea, the oil grabs in the needle and messes with performance. The air filter in chainsaws also get clogged pretty fast as it is oily and grabs splinters.
only use non-ethanol gas in small engines.. ethanol gas that sits will ruin internal parts in small engine carbs...
Pure-gas.org to find ethanol-free gas.
"it's an echo chainsaw" 😂
i was thinking of the acoustic when you said that. thank you kind Sir for this good lough.
plus this excellent video
That chainsaw is arguably the best chainsaw echo ever made. It takes such a beating it’s not even funny
That ain't nothing compared to my story...yesterday, I started my 1997 Stihl 025 saw that has been in storage since '07. Nine years ago I followed the Stihl's recommendations for placing the saw in storage which includes burning off all the fuel in the carb...loosening the bar and chain, and putting it in a good dry place. I stored it my original Stihl plastic carrying/storage case. Nine years later (yesterday)...put in new spark plug...fresh new fuel/oil...runs like a "bat outta' hell." It runs like it did...9 years ago...maybe better!
Plug Gap should be 0.025". Sounds a little rich. If carb is adjustable set it at WOT at operating temp at the 'H' screw for max rpm (too lean) then counterclockwise (richer) until it just drops off a little. Better rich than lean. I know nothing about cars but your videos are awesome.
never thought you’d also give some insight on my chainsaws too. thanks.
Now that they put ethanol in most grades of gasoline mixes, it is suggested by most, if not all, manufacturers to remove all fuel from equipment and run it until it shuts down to get it out of the lines and carb if you don't plan to use it often or store it. If you do not do this, then the ethanol will eat away the rubber and fiber seals, parts, and gaskets. This will cause leaks and cause the fuel delivery to not happen properly.
Even if ethanol doesn't eat the rubber, it will turn to varnish, snot or combinations thereof due to reaction with atmospheric moisture.
David i agree but then if that’s the case then they should install fuel tank drain plugs!
for cleaning the spark plugs. A trick I learned from my dad when cleaning my truck spark plugs is he bought a steel dentist tooth pick and he uses that to pick all the grime off the spark plug and other parts.
The best way to store an engine is to dump the fuel back into the can while the engine's hot and then start the engine and let it idle until its completely out of fuel. Stale gas will melt the fuel lines, priming ball, carb diaphram ect.
Hello Eric great lesson anyway
But the best fuel for little engines like chainsaws is ASPEN 2 for the two stroke engines
and ASPEN 4 just for B&S lawn mowers with a four stroke engine.
This is a synthetic fuel with no other additives except the aspen 2 is alredy mixed up with two stroke oil
The most fine thing about this aspen fuel is that you can store your little machines up for years and years with absolutely no problems like gumming up parts in the carburetor or fueltank its not getting old and remains in very good condition
for a very long time.
+synthesizer301: I absolutely agree...since I use this in all my small engines, all engine and starting problems have disappeared... my engines just fire up when I need them... its worth the extra money as long as do don´t need 1000 Gallons a year. and it does not give you nausea after hours of working because the exhaust fumes are not as poisonous
I run 100ll at the end of the season and leave it in there since its very shelf stable. Then don't have to worry about the fuel going bad
Same. Avgas is great, isn't it?
Ex crew dog year and strongly agree.
the reason it ruins the crank bearings is when the gas gets saturated with moisture the ethanol separates out of the gas and it gets a shot of straight alcohol which washes out the crank bearings
Generally oil to gasoline mixture rates are anywhere from 2-3oz per gallon. all of my 2 stroke STIHL tools run at 2.6oz per gallon per manual but i mix it lean at a little over 2 oz per gallon, 2.2-2.4 if i have my exact measuring cup. the oil in the fuel actually Gums up the cylinder and exhaust valves within a year following the manual. I bought a brand new FS90 STIHL weed eater and did the 2.6oz per gallon mixture and it was hard starting, no throttle, dying out randomly and under throttle within 4 months of use. Commercial grade.... If your equipment smokes a good bit often or every start up or has black slug or black gum looking substances all over it, take it apart and clean it and reduce your oil mixture rate, id recommend running it extra low for about a gallon worth with a touch of cylinder cleaner to help it burn the crud off
From the took guidelines I have the two main mix ratios you want are 25:1 and 40:1 for 40 and 25cc engines... Might differ a little from manufacturer to manufacturer but so far I haven't locked an engine up using those mixtures!
jacob dukes It's all in the crank case & rod bearings in the engine... If you have a high end engine it should have harder-wearing bearings which would give you the potential to run a leaner mixture... if it's a cheapo form Harbour freight then of course it won't last 5 minutes on a lean mix... I personally side with you on the richer mixtures because you have less risk of wearing the crank bearings out and causing a pressure leak... only downside is the engine won't run clean but 2-stroke generally aren't very clean engines anyway so it's no real problem unless your neighbour drives a Toyota Prius to "Save the planet"... Little do they know their little 3-cylinder engine that assists the motors uses more fuel than a 25 cc chainsaw!
Not saying the buildup would be anything like a rich running 4-stroke... far from it since a good synthetic motor oil normally has a detergent in it that helps to loosen and stave off further carbon buildup, but if you don't run top notch oils then of course the opposite might become true... especially if you don't have the fuel mix/air charge at or close to spec!! Although who'd do that!? Tried firing up a tool like that once and resorted to a drill after checking there was fuel entering the chamber!!
Ah, I see :P
When I was young, if we needed to clean a bunch of plugs, my dad would take them to work and clean them with a glass bead machine. If we had a fouled plug on a small engine, a trick we used at home was to clamp the plug in a vise, and burned the deposits off with a propane torch.
Its kinda crazy how people replace spark plugs like candy in small engines, just clean them, in a well maintained engine the spark plug will last indefinitely
Perhaps put a little bit of Pri-G in -- I usually sharpen the chain (manually file) fill the bar oil and gas/oil fuel, with a little SF or PRI-G so it's ready to go when I want to use it.
Oh, and consider buying a cheap used Husqvarna. On my second one after thousands of cuts -- no issues running (dropped a tree on the first one).
Once an engine is started, even for a split second, you leave the choke open, or off. it's not needed anymore. If you prime a choked engine you're just flooding it once you pull that cord.
You are wrong, chainsaws need the choke. It all depends on the air temperature.
You're also wrong about flooding it with the purge pump. Once the carb has fuel in it, the remainder is routed back to the fuel tank. You cant flood it with the purge pump.
Donnyboy has the best small engine vids i have seen.
*****
not when you're also Canadian.
*****
hes from ontario.
Donyboy73's videos are EXCELLENT. Simple, clear, to the point.
Spark plug gap on this saw is .026 not .044.The spark plug gap was right.
I highly recommend Star Tron. It will sometimes even clean a plugged carburetor.
Primers on 2 stroke engines don't actually squirt gas into the cylinder. They only just return bad fuel back into the tank and refill the carb with "fresher" fuel. You can't flood a 2 stroke either.
Caution - do not leave the spark plug connector loose Any loose/bad connection or bad wire in the high voltage spark plug circuit will cause excessively high voltage on the circuit before the spark plug fires. This excessive high voltage can destroy the components causing a failure.
Eric, what a great intro!
I agree, I would have emptied the gas tank and disposed of all the old gas/oil/chain lube. Most pros (including Donyboy) suggest storing the unit dry, though I often wonder if that might contribute to dry rot in the seals.
I would also recommend using ear plugs with any small engines mowers weedeaters ect.
All in all...pretty good video. Never use Ether on small engines! If you get too much in there you can destroy the piston. Purists say not to use wire brushes on spark plugs because a single wire can come off the brush and lodge in the spark plug insulator and electrode mating joints. I use a brush but inspect carefully before reinstalling the plug. Another option to clean the plug is to use a propane torch to burn off any carbon on the electrodes. Take care not to get the electrodes "red hot" as you can blister the insulator causing particles to get between the rings and cylinder wall. You should dump out any fuel mix in the tank at the end of chain saw season. The Ethanol combines with H2o and forms an acid that corrodes the carburetor. Again Eric, very good video explaining to non-mechanical types of what to do!
I was so expecting Eric to rip something apart with this chainsaw, like a chair or a table :)
amazing it starts at all with the fresh gas/oil mix in the bar chain oil tank, guess that old gas was fine and nothing he did besides add ether, tighten perfectly fine plug and pull really helped, hope he didn't hit a nail once he got cutting..
Been a subscriber for the past year. Moved out of the city and need to start using a lawnmower. Love the channel and that much knowledge learned on your channel. Thanks ETCG:)
My dad bought one of those off the shelf McCullochs for $100 a few years back. Hardest pos to keep running. Rather have a reliable stihl or echo. I've heard starting fluid can blow a hold in your piston if used too much of.
Anyways thanks!
Ski mask? You mean hockey mask? Lmao...
In case of wearing "good thick gloves", maybe are a bit of a use when you get a kickback by the chain. But ALWAYS wear cut-proof clothes (at least trousers and shoes) when working with chain saws, no matter how hot it is. That´s what I got tought here in the German Civil Protection. A chain saw at full power doesn´t care whether it´s cutting a tree or your leg.
Better be safe then sorry, and ALWAYS kep having great respect of chainsaws.
ETCG, love ur videos, but if you clean the spark plug with a wire brush be sure to blow it out to clean any loosened debris out so it doesn't get into the cylinder and cause damage, also gap it correctly. Gap gauges are cheap and can be found at any auto store, wally world, etc. Also, if tools have been sitting for more than a few months dump the fuel out and fill with fresh. Old fuel can not only cause non start or rough running conditions but also may cause damage. Hope these help next time.
You are a good person to teach how to start a change
I had almost the same experience with my McCullough. They're a B'otch. But man are they a force multiplier when you need to remove and reduce a tree that's gotten too big for your yard to fireplace logs. I used to have two chain saws. Had so much trouble keeping them running in the middle of a job I'd switch between them. Seemed just giving one of them a rest made it start and run better for a while ... then switch again.
Real reason it didn't start, at first. You didn't say come on, Baby! ..
I always forget that part
+Joshua Naranjo Tnx for the laugh, Josh. Hope you have a great week! ...
Katicooooo maybe use some dirty talk bay hahahaha
And hold your tongue a special way or grit your teeth
i used a microfiber for my spark plugs. but just to clean some crap off around the top rim so it would seat better hopefully..not the element. easyer to handle since its a rag
thanks! i have the same exact chainsaw and i spent 30 minutes trying to get my to start even though it was working fine the day before but once i pulled the throttle halfway and the spark plug a little out it fired up the first pull!
I use Sea-foam all the time. Don't know why I didn't try ir with my chainsaw. It sat for 5-6 years with fuel in it. I drained it and added fresh and 1 cap of sea-foam. Good to go! Thanks for the top tip.
Interesting, you mentioned leaving the spark plug boot loose to deliver a hotter spark. In the early 80's I worked at a Ford dealership. The Escorts would often arrive with fouled plugs. If these were ran a few times cold by driving them on the carrier, then driving them off, then parking them the plugs fouled. Every time I loosened the plug boots and ran them for about 5 Min. - no more fouled plugs.
Great video. I will try your suggestions tomorrow. My chainsaw has been sitting there for about 2 years already. I hope I can make it run again. Thank you again.
I think he loves all cars but you are bang on with the honda's, i laughed like a drain when i read your comment :-)
He is truly a smashing bloke that deserves to succeed, i would like to see him have more sponsors to boost his income and make life easyer.
I was hoping he would have brought a log or tree stump to the shop so we could have a little live-action demo, but alas, great video! Thanks for the Seafoam tip, never thought of using that in 2-cycle yard equipment.
New Gas and a New Plug... if that don't work the carubreator is gumed up and varnished... Not a bad idea at all to try and use the primer to push something like Seafoam through it... Anything to get the carbureator clean.
a tip for if you know you wont be using something for a while: run it out of gas. I do that in my generator and maybe once every 6 months put a little gas in it and do it again.
i use a wire drill bit on spark plugs i have done it alot of times and it has never (sparked) an issue
You are my go to guy on car stuff, but I know small engines pretty well. It sounded like the low speed screw could stand to be opened up about an 1/8th of a turn. (counter clockwise)
i stihl miss my ol poulan i messed up for sure ,, that was a great saw
I've had two or three of them and don't miss Poulan junk at all!
Nice design chainsaw, never heard of Echo chainsaws before. Looks robust and convenient to work on.
Echo is the only brand I've ever seen recommended on yard care forums. I started with their weed eater motor that has replaceable end parts (for edging and other lawn work) last year, and I just got an echo chain saw this year.
Mine sat for 15 years started with old gas ran great however after new gas it won’t idle on its own.
Similar situation for me aswell. my saw is over 50 years old , and it sat 20 years outside , took about 20 pulls to start it but it did , a week after it gave me the same issues as yours
@@stoplookingatmeplease1230 Worst thing about my chainsaw is it's a ECHO, And they out of all assemblers added the chain tensioner on the bar, And the tensioner broke. And it's that type of bar that was mean't to be disposed. And echo stopped making the bars. And now I have literally a useless chainsaw. Hence the reason why it sat for 15 years.
I was right with you till you used starting fluid, I've had wood heat my whole life and been cutting professionally for 20 years. Starting fluid wrecks saws. Also, I'm very familiar with that saw, the top handle version has been my saw of choice since I started climbing. Dump the old gas out, put new gas in and start it. Run 91 octane and mix it rich. If you intend to store a saw for a long while, run it out of gas first. Otherwise it's not recommended to run them out of gas, all fumes no oil.
Starting fluid has no oil in it, i use a old oiler filled with mixed gas for starting 2 strokes.
it also helps to hold the throttle down to start
Believe it or not I got a ride on lawn mower/tractor started after it sat in the same spot for 10 years. I'm an automotive student if that matters
+justindasilva73 That's believable fuel, air and spark thats all you need. I started up a car that sat for 12 years. Luckily had no gas so filled her up and started it up fairly easy. Brakes and all sorts of maintenance you need to do but it starts and drives lol
lol
justindasilva73 I'm an auto student too, I got a leaf blower started that had been sitting for ten years, and I've gotten every push mower I've been given or found running.
Great work, excellent tips.
I use a wee bit of sandpaper folded in half to clean up the plug electrode and contact.
You've earned yourself a new subscriber friend! All the best from Ontario, Canada