Creality CR10s Pro Z axis and Bed Leveling - Fix layer shifts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- How to level your 3d printer.
Mechanically level your z axis before leveling your bed. Fix layer shifting.
Blocks you can print to level z axis: www.thingivers...
CR10s Pro Fan Stl - www.thingivers...
Did you level the gantry while it's at rest? I'm probably going to get some flak from people who disagree, but anti-backlash not does not help. When you install the anti-backlash nuts your following some of the steps of removing and putting the rods and components together.. Done correctly it would have worked with or without the installation of the anti-backlash nuts. Do it incorrectly and it doesn't matter if you installed the anti-backlash nuts... This is often why you often get conflicting statements like it worked for me, but others say it didn't work for them. When I say "level the gantry at rest" If you don't know what this principle means and how it's applied during the assembly process. It won't work. You might get lucky at certain times by applying the principle without knowing it... Like when you disassemble and reassemble to put on the anti-backlash nuts. Now i'm not saying the anti-backlash nuts doesn't work in certain cases like if your threaded rod is worn or the nut itself is worn. But if this is the case. Maybe it's just time to replace your rods and nuts.
I was combing through a facebook group discussion just today. Where this user describes the gantry droop to one side. During this course of discussion he mentions adding a pair of anti-backlash nuts and it was still the same... droop.... Then after getting suggestions and watching some videos he finally got it leveled out after 3 tries.
So…if we just got this printer what do we need to do to set it up correctly?
i have had my CR10 s pro for 13 months and this g@@am gantry leveling issue is the only thing i hate about this printer. i level the gantry, installed backlash nuts, put bearings at the top of the rods, set nozzle height to a C hair under .2mm and ill get one to 3 prints before the $hit goes wonky on me. literally spent half the day adjusting and readjusting my damn printer. something goes off kilter after a few prints and for the life of me i cannot figure it out. ready to take my 12 gauge to it LMFAO
Great video. I just got this very same CR-10S. The nozzle was hitting the bed. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks. Enjoy your new printer..
Just bought one of these used and your videos are a lifesaver. Thank you for making these.
Do you have a playlist for the CR-10s Pro? If not I'm sure many people would enjoy it.
Best ever video for leveling the right way this was the only one that helped me thank u . Been having ruff time leveling this
Plus I have inductive sensor? . What to do if can not print out . My fan beside the filament on right side wires were solderd so badly fell right off now I don’t know which is negative
You're welcome, I'm not sure which part your referring to. Usually wires are color coded: black is negative and red is positive. However, you may want to get a multimeter to confirm. Especially if your working with modified parts.
Thanks for the video. My brand new cr10s pro v2 thinks Z home is about 80mm off the bed. The sensor doesn’t light up at all so I unplugged it but still no change. I manually (with screws) set it to zero but when I put it on home up goes the Z axis again. 🤬
Excellent video mate!!! Just what I was looking for!
Great to hear!
Great video, thanks! I see that you tightened the z nut, did you loosen it back afterwards? ? All the creality printers have loose z nuts.
No, I did not loosen them. Loose is relative. Depending on how well your printer is aligned. The more you can tighten them. So, it depends on how well you calibrate your printer and how straight the rod is.
This is a nice idea. When you pull the rod out, is it also necessary to keep the heavy motor side alluminum coupler loose?
I really have to force the right side down (opposite of the extruder). It won’t really stay level.
Can’t seem to find the problem. Suggestions?
If you level the Z bar by mean of two printed bars you will get too much it imprecise. You need to buy precise steel bars, so with the exact equal legnth. They are available on the market.
You also don't need to do all the crazy unmount and remont you show, you can manually turn the side screws one independently to the other. You have to do it with the printer on, by disengaging the step motors. Don't turn the screws and don't move the bed with the printer off: you can damage the electrinc because if the motors rotate theu output current even if the printer is off.
I stuck a level gauge on top of the x-axis bar and just leveled that way. I made sure the the table was level first (which you should do anyway) and then just leveled by looking at the level gauge.
Hello, I have A Creaity CR-10 with Dual Z Axis motors. The z axis goes up and down when homing but will not go up when printing. Is this a problem with my machine or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
Most likely something wrong with the machine due to some changes you made...
This helped. Thanks for doing these videos.
You're welcome.. Appreciate it..
Thanks for the great video! Very detailed!
You're welcome...
The uneven gantry problem will keep on occurring as at the end of the print, the print head reaches one side of the frame and disables the motor. when this happens, there's a slippage on that side due to weight difference. To avoid this, better use anti-backlash nuts (the ones with springs) on z-axis lead screw.
I've heard this before and sometimes the anti backlash nut helps. To me the slippage should be slight or really unnoticeable. The only reason there would be major slippage is if the nut and threads are worn or one of the couplers were clamped in an unnatural state. (While the motor is still engaged or there was still force being applied to one part or side of the gantry) If the wear and tear is small then the anti backlash nuts may help. Normal nut uses one section of contact. Anti- backlash uses 2 sections of contact using opposing forces to help stabilize the threaded rod. All mechanical parts wear and break down. It's like the struts on a car. Mechanics will recommend replacing the whole assembly. Some to save money will only opt to put in only the shock absorber. While they are both fixes. You will still notice the difference. So to me, if the weight of one side being heavier is the problem (design flaw). All the cr10's would have this problem. However, you get people that have bad experience of it dropping and some that have no problems with their cr10s pro. Not saying there would be no issues after long period of use, but coming straight out of the box. Sorry this got so long.
@@DiyProJames what do I do if my nozzle hits the bed after auto leveling
@@papichulo3256 Your z offset is probably incorrect raise it up. Also, may be possible that your sensor is broken. First I would check the z offset.
@@DiyProJames can I email you?
@@DiyProJames I use them on both my cr-10s pros
My cr-10 s pro is 5 days old.My settings were so 9ff that it gouged the bed,and jumped some links on the bel on the x and z axis.Can you do a video on how to set the belts correctly,and also how to get your bed leveling settings to save? Ty Great video!
The bed leveling settings should be saved once you turn on the auto leveling. Also, with the belts you just have to pull them tight enough before screwing in your locking nuts.
I have a issue .My z axis gowing below bed plate (5mm),i cannot calibrate it...
This is due to your z-offset not being set correctly, or malfunctioning sensor. Also, have your heated bed turned on when calibrating your sensor.
Thanks for your great video, So I followed your instructions get it all level, move up the Printer 10mm and then down 10mm and still all good, but when I Disable Motor, or turn off Printer I see the left side sag very slightly, you think anti-backlash nuts would help? thanks again!
Please read the pinned comment on top of this video. Anti backlash nut may help, but before replacing them. You may want to play with the eccentric nut putting light resistance on the frame. Whether it's left or right side of the gantry can only be determined by carefully observing and finding which one you think is loose and adding slight resistance on the frame. One side might have to be tightened and the other loosened. Less than 1/8 of a turn. Also, check the screws that hold the T-nuts that hold the rod in place. These screws should be firm, but don't overtighten. Make sure they are not loose. Getting everything aligned is more of an art than science. You need to really observe what's happening with the printer and why it's making that slight droop. Components are interdependent. Let me know how if making these slight adjustments worked or you need to get the anti backlash nuts...
@@DiyProJames thanks for your reply! after sending my first message, I noticed the screws that connect to the frame to the rods were very loose, I will try and tighten them and report back.
I have seen people using Z axis sync kits, i.e, two pulleys and a belt that goes between the two Z axis lead screws, seems much easier to install than anti backlash nuts, so maybe thats an alternative? People seems to have fixed the problem where one side of the gantry drops lower than the other side, with that fix.
This is something that has been discussed and there are many different opinions. My opinion is there is a natural state of rest in the gantry and z rods. They have to be tightened in that state. Of not you will always have the gantry that's not leveling correctly. The sync in part holds the rod at the top of the rod, which is not needed if the rod is held correctly at the bottom. I believe the z sync is not needed and having it while the bottom is not aligned could cause the rods to wear out faster. But getting the rods to sync up at a natural state is an art and difficult for many so they substitute it with the syncs.
Z sync is the way to go. Search Thingiverse for your preferred mod.
@@GeorgeHamberhill It works for some..
Do I lower the bed first or at least midway? Tried to do this and the nozzle drags. Not sure if it is cause of my previous level or the sensor
You should level the bed first. You can always lower the bed slightly lower and raise it up to the level if you feel the nozzle is dragging or you don't even have to power on you printer just manually move the bed and head and adjust accordingly. Then power up the printer and do the auto level. However, the idea is to first adjust the bed on the four corners before you start to auto bed level..
My machine came with the plastic prob sensor is the one your using a mode you made.
The one in the video is a standard stock sensor. I have since upgraded to a bltouch.
On another note, how tight is your Y axis belt for the bed? Can you move the bed easily by hand? My bed is pretty hard to move and came with the belt, what i think is very tight, much tighter than my Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 has. The belt does more of a high pitch sound when i snap it. I loosen all the eccentric nuts but it was still hard to move, so i guess its the belt?
Yes, the bed moves easily by hand.. because the bed is slightly heavier than my ender 3 is movement is not as loose, but still moves along easily by hand. If it's a new cr10s pro it might be that the wheels may have been compressed. "Left in the factory too long with force on the wheels" . If that's the cause you may feel it roll freely then it start to drag a bit then roll freely again. The wheels may decompress to original shape after some use and relieving some pressure on the eccentric nuts...
@@DiyProJames , Thanks for your answer, i will try leaving the eccentric nuts loose for a while and then re-tighten them.
seems like over kill to me... i don't believe removing both couplers plus unscrewing complete rod was the best way... maybe it worked but seems completely unnecessary ...thanks for sharing though...
It depends on the degree of offset. If there is a really small offset you don't have to remove the couplers. If there is a high degree of offset it needs to be removed. If the frame is bent even removing the couplers won't work. It depends on the quality control of the manufacturer. Some were lucky to get ones that didn't require much adjustment others needed to take them apart and reassemble.
@@DiyProJames Either way, even if VERY far off, you only need to loosen one coupler and most definitely don't have to go through all the pain of removing the rod. If it is so far off that the adjustment available from one coupler doesn't fix it, you have a real problem machine with a bent frame and there will be other problems.
@@keithduffield5239 You are correct in many cases you don't need to take out the rod. However, for many people who stumbled upon this video are beginners and don't know how to adjust or diagnose the problem. In these cases it's best to start from the beginning in a step by step process to eliminate any variables that may affect the outcome. When you have mechanical components that need to be tightened there is a pattern to follow. When there is 4 points x pattern, 5 points star pattern like lug nuts on a wheel. While in most cases you can get away tightening the lug nuts in a circle pattern and not torquing it to spec. It is not recommended. The reason why I removed both couplers were for the same reason. I wanted to tighten everything while the gantry was in its "resting state". While the motors are disengaged and are resting on the two black blocks. This way remove any type of unnatural force on the gantry. Also, I wanted to make sure the couplers were tightened in the correct position.
@@DiyProJames Fair enough. In that case it is more than an adjustment, its actually a comprehensive alignment or setting to work procedure. And that may, in hindsight, be a very good idea so that you establish a good known baseline and exclude undetected misalignments.
my cr10s pro wont come all the way down to level. any ideas why? working great yesterday today nothing
some times that happens when you dont home the z drive before turning off your printer. I found that out the hard way. If you do that you need to relevel from the start
There could be many different issues. Common problem is your sensor is not setup correctly.
I am having trouble with my CR 10S Pro, sensor light stays on even the Z axis is high above the bed. Also the Z axis is not homing down to the bed at all! Can you help me? I very new at this. I got this printer a month ago, have nothing but troubles with it.
Which sensor are you using? capacitive, inductive, or bltouch?
@@DiyProJames I am using the stock one that came with the CR 10S pro, it is the capacitive one. The led light on the sensor is always on and no matter how far clockwise or counterclockwise I turn it, it has no effect at all. Do you think I should just upgrade my software with TinyMachines3D (B7) to the printer?
Thank you very much for responding to my inquiry so quickly!
I am using a capacitive one that came with the CR 10s pro. Do you know anyone local in the SF Bay Area that can tune or repair my printer. I bought the printer from Creality3d and they take too long to reply to anything I question about. The Sd card has no other files in it but the dog, pig and cat test models. It has been very frustrating dealing with them!
@@DiyProJames The capacitive one.
@@mayleong3623 This is often the case with chinese based printers. They don't provide support. Most likely your sensor is defective if the light doesn't turn off and on. The light turned on means it's always detecting the bed. Try finding a makers faire in your area. Someone there might be able to help you. You should try replacing the sensor or try exchanging for different printer..
hi i did exactly like . but i keep gettin home up high , how i fix this plz thank u
How high above the bed? You may have to adjust the sensor.
ProjectJames where is the sensor I’m have the same problem
@@FancySon413 Go to around 15:50 in the video. I physically adjust the sensor. At around 17:00 I adjust the internal height level of the sensor. Your looking for the sweet spot where the red light turns on/off (borderline). Turn the screw clockwise and as soon as the red light turns on stop turning the screw (dial). Turn it slowly. If the range of the sensor is from positive 10 to 0 to negative 10. You want to get as close to the 0 as possible. Turning anti clockwise would be increase the dial to the positive 10 direction and turning it clockwise would lower the dial to the negative 10 direction. Again your trying to hit the 0 range as close as possible, which is the borderline of when the sensor light turns on and off.
Hello, I have a CR-10MAX. How do I change the firmware to increase the print temperature to 265℃ and only reverse the extruder rotation
some reason i updated to T.M firmware b7 and my sd card on printer wont read it 3rd time firmware update .got any sugestion
I would need more info. Did you flash both the mainboard and the lcd board? Are you able to try a different sd card? If it's not reading the printer files may have to reformat the sd card. Are the printer files in the root directory? How big is the sd card? What have you tried to troubleshoot the problem so far. I would try to see if it's the firmware or the actual sd card is problem first.
ProjectJames yes I did all those points I wrote , and yes both lcd and the motherboard With TM FIRWARE . Then updated to creakily own firmware same thing happen1.70.1 same thing sd card printer won’t read it . Then I re updated to tiny machine update . Can read sd card now . Plus see the 25 point messer . But can only read 3 files in sdCard did the eeprom .
Just wanna know after updated one has to re set the inductive sensor and z offset . But also notice be4 every print it wont messer G29;auto bed leveling . In the creakily firmware it did
I think I should repudiate Couple of times
G29 are you saying it doesn't home to the center for the printer like the creality firmware? G29 (Home) for the tiny machines firmware is at the bottom left corner and not the center of the bed. The 3 files on the sd card are they gcode? or printer files? When you reformatted your sd card it erased all other data in the card.
ProjectJames do u have the original files from SD card that came with Cr 10s pro ?
Then one more ?
G29; auto bed leveling so it does the measurements before any print ?
@@ktm890rsweden5 I don't think I kept the original files. The G29 is home. The bed leveling is saved from the last time you did the auto bed leveling. When it homes it matches the current home state with the previous saved state. If you are able to get the first perfect layer most of the time you won't have issues later on with the print. When I have time I'll do a video on how to get the perfect first layer.
What X axis tensioner are you using?
It's standard stock one that came with the printer
I don’t think this product is ready for the market. I’ve had mine just less than 6 months and so many problems. It’s now unusable, customer care is terrible.
You don.t need to do all this dangerous job to level the Z-bar: each screw can be rotated independly form the other what the printer is off.
Each screw should be independent, but depending on the alignment of the nuts, rod, and gantry. Sometimes the rod won't be be able to go to it's natural rest state. There is a bind or kink on the system. When this happens the height of the lead rod on the left and right won't come into alignment based on the threads. This is the reason in certain cases people have stated. Looks fine when the printer is powered on, but when the power is shut down. One side tends to droop. So really they are dependent on each other because based on the alignment one side will throw off the other side if not tuned correctly.
@@DiyProJames Listen to Giuseppe. You r doing it to complicated
I say this out of irony not to be mean, but it is funny that the whole video is about leveling yet you didn't level the camera you filmed the video with...
Yes, cramped space, no second shooter. All indications of low budget. 😃
The threaded rods actually have nothing to do with leveling. This approach does not achieve anything
I found; if the rods are not set correctly, the z gantry will be on a tilt especially since the left side of the gantry with the extruder will be heavier. The bigger the dimensions of the print you will have more issues with it shifting. This step is not necessary if the gantry is already level. If there is a very tiny tilt you maybe able to get away with holding one side of the clamp and rotating the other side making the gantry level. However; if there is a noticeable tilt on the gantry, this issue needs to be addressed.
Wayne de Jager is 100% correct, this approach does not achieve anything. Once power is off the rods will move independently and the only way to correct this is with z rod sync.
How to fix a cr10 printer....put it in an oven....cook it at 700 degrees for 12 hours....put it in a paper bag throw it in the trash.....but an Anycubic Chiron.....Creatility customer service sucks greedy vendors
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Hello
Yes, Hi. What can I help you with?
Want to fix your leveling problem? Get a PRUSA i3.
I think all printers have some sort of problem. They all have to be calibrated and *upgraded*
I love your video and applied this technique you demonstrated on the CR10s I bought last week and it worked. But I do have a Prusa i3 and I have to support @smiling skull Prusa has no such issues... Hense the reason you have this video and I’m watching it.
Thanks for the tutorial! Question for you if you see this. Recently my CR10spro went wonky and now has major later shifting on Y axis like it's over shooting front and back measurements, sometimes it's layer shifting only in one direction like stairs but other times it goes both ways 🤔maybe Y axis is biaxial 🤪 . I've checked all mechanics and everything is as it was since I've been printing for 13 months and boy have I been printing. Could this be a glitch in firmware? I figure electric motors are going to either work or not work . My belts are tight and teeth are fine. I had a weird episode of my flash card being deleted by the printer on the same day that the layer shifting started. That's why I wonder if it's a firmware/software glitch. Computers being stupid occasionally and requiring humans to reset them . Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have 10 rolls of filament waiting to print Christmas displays 🤣