I Spent 400+ Hours Making a Dark Academia Victorian Walking Suit & Wore It to a Castle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ธ.ค. 2024
- I finally finished the replica dark academia Victorian walking suit! The entire project took me over 400 hours of hand sewing, and I would be lying if I did not say that I am exhausted. I will definitely be having a few days break from hand sewing now.
Victorian fashion is often known for its complex construction methods, and so this historical sewing project was incredibly educational and really pushed me outside of my comfort zone, especially considering that I am still very much an inexperienced beginner. @PocketFullofPoseys has a challenge going on called #sewoutofmycomfortzone and I definitely think this project qualifies!
Be sure to watch part 1 of this video if you haven't seen it already. I go into depth about how I constructed the unique bodice:
• I Recreated a Victoria...
I can also assure you all that this walking suit is extremely comfortable, as I edited almost this entire video wearing it! It does not feel too tight anywhere, which is always amazing especially since I love to wear my historical sewing creations in a more day-to-day manner.
I want to extend a massive thank you to my friend Kass McGann of @ReconstructingHist for all her help. Kass, you made my life so much easier throughout this entire project.
Please do go check out Reconstructing History if you are interested in historical patterns (not sponsored). They stock many men's patterns as well and have an extremely diverse range of options:
reconstructing...
Hooks & bars and pearl buttons from (not sponsored): www.etsy.com/u...
Thanks so much for watching!
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🌙 Books I read, supplies I use, gear I film with (affiliate links): www.amazon.com...
🪡 Follow me on Instagram: / vasibirchwood
📖 Business inquiries: sofie@helmtalentgroup.com
Thank you to the Fashion Museum, Bath for giving me permission to use the images of the original 1890-91 walking suit in their collection.
All music is sourced from Epidemic Sound.
#historicalfashion #historicalsewing
Thank you everyone for watching! Are you working on any projects/do you plan to work on any projects that take you out of your comfort zone? What are they?
@@patim7902 Stays and corsets! That's a brave undertaking, you will learn so much during that process. Cottagecore and Regency outfits sound perfect for summer 😊
I totally think you should go for it! You may well find that you really like it (I certainly discovered this when I started wearing them daily).
And don’t worry at all, I love responding to comments here. And I’m happy you see me as a regular person because I AM a regular person 😂 you’re always welcome to email me and I’m pretty good about responding back there. My email is in the About section on my channel page 😊
I love the way the skirt tabs move as you walk.
The walking suit turned out amazing! The late Victorian silhouette is so lovely, and you nailed it!
Thank you so much, Lilja! 😊
This looked eerily like the real Victorian museum pieces I have had a privilege to study. Also, one more thing to add to my ever growing list of things to sew! The colour looks amazing on you!
That's such a compliment, thank you! 😊 I'm glad that it looks so similar. I have a small antique collection, and examining the late Victorian pieces in it really helped to prepare me I think for the construction, as there are always some similarities between decades.
Absolutely stunning!! Be very proud.400 hours for 1 outfit . Omg!
Thank you! 😊It did not feel like that much while in the process of sewing, but adding up all the estimates reveals the true amount of work it all was 😂
Love how this turned out! And your videos have such incredible production value. Well done 💥
Thank you Janus!! It seems we have a similar upload schedule 😅
I love this colour! It always reminds me of medieval dress for some reason! But this project also came out great!
Thank you! I can totally see the medieval connection. That's funny 😊 Something that will now be hard to unsee haha.
How amazing that you found a pattern that matched your exact height and figure!
Going to go and watch the first video that I missed before proceeding here... but the craftsmanship and production quality here is amazing to watch, as per your usual standard.
400 HOURS and countless needle pricks, truly a labour of love!
I think really the pattern found me lol! It is the only one I had my eye on in that book, so I was pretty surprised when all the meausrements lined up. I hope you enjoy the first video! Thanks as always for the compliments on the video 😊
I absolutely love this walking suit. It’s one of my favorite garments of yours. I hope you get to wear it this fall.
That really turned out so amazing! I love the crenellated hem at the front of the skirt- it’s such a unique feature, and really makes the whole thing pop. Definitely looking forward to your next project!
As for my current project, I’m in the middle of a big mix and match 18th century project- including all underthings and accessories (pockets, shifts, fichu, cap, wool mitts, bergere straw hat, under petticoats and stays), plus a few outer petticoats and outer jackets that can be mixed and matched with each other. I still have a petticoat and the jackets to go, but I’ve got enough for a great ren fair outfit for next weekend, which makes me very happy.
Because this is a big project with so many parts, I’ll definitely be going to a much simpler project for a while after this- maybe one or two garment projects, before then moving on to another era (likely 1860s, where I’ll start with a corset, and then move on to making a few work dresses, I think)
Thank you so much, Neartmhor! It really is such a unique feature. Honestly, the entire thing has so many unique elements and it just makes you wonder how some dressmaker came up with all of this once upon a time.
Wow that sounds like quite the undertaking! Great idea having some options to be able to mix and match, you're almost creating an 18th century capsule wardrobe in a way 😉
1860s work dresses are highly underrated. They can be so comfortable and practical. Workwear in general can! (I'm actually going to sew some 18th century workwear soon too). Great selections!
Lots of ideas and projects to break from the comfort zone yes. Wonderful video once again. Élégance, beauté, intelligence, talent, créativité, travail. Blessed by the divine. Great scenery at the end, perfectly done.
Thank you very much!
What a project! Well done on completing it, and so timely at that. The hat was a nice touch and a brilliant idea. Pockets can always wait. They know they are needed and will not be forgotten about 😉
Thank you, Maia! And that is so true, pockets are there when we need them (except maybe not always for contemporary clothes haha) and once we get the motivation to finally sew them! 😂
Beautiful !!! looks like you stepped right out of a cabinet card from 1891!! Truly impressive!!
Thank you!! I’m so glad to hear you say that as that was really my goal with this video 😊
I'm very late to this but how beautiful! It must feel wonderful to wear something this nice that you've made yourself, it's super inspiring ☺️
Lady V you've out done yourself the whole outfit is stunning, and can I just say that I am supremely jealous of that ruffle! Also I loved the vaguely bustle-like back of the skirt! And of course the hat is adorable! Thank you for sharing and happy sewing!
Thank you very much, Amber! I'm so happy that you enjoyed the video. Happy sewing as well 😊
I have also just discovered how much I love this color. Came out great! How lucky you got and yes a bit eerie that the extant size actually fit you, lol. Love it.
Terracotta is a GREAT colour! Thanks so much! It made me very emotional actually when I first tried on the mock-up and it fit like a glove without alterations.
Wow! I am exhausted for you! Beautiful dress!
Beautiful! Super impressive work, esp. for someone with relatively little sewing experience!
I really love that suit! I really love the bustle effect on the back of the skirt!
Thank you! 😊 I absolutely love that transition from the bustle into early 1890s too. Such a nice remnant of the style!
Wow! ...just...WOW! The whole project is fantastic, Dear Lady! Congratulations on biting off more than you thought you could chew...and persevering through to actually get it done! That's one of the best ways to learn.
Thank you Bonnie! I completely agree that it’s the best way to learn sometimes 😊
You are Brave!!! Congrats you look amazing in this suit.
Thank you 🥰
so cute!! Love the way you styled the outfit - the hat is adorable.
Thank you so much! 😊
What a lovely outfit!
So much intense & excellent work.
I appreciate you sharing.
Thank you Catherine! It’s much appreciated 😊
@@VBirchwood you are entirely welcome. I'm not sure how you feel about food, so I will try not to go into detail, but somehow watching this inspired me to make & eat a lovely wholesome meal, out of leftovers.
Now I have stamina to go on with my day.
I love food! Especially wholesome food that makes my body feel good 😊 that’s beautiful that it inspired you to make a meal, how lovely! Thanks
@@VBirchwood you are welcome. It was an Edwardian/ proto-convenience food sort of meal. Leftover accidentally overcooked seasonal veggies, mixed with fresh barely sauteed snap peas, parsley & tomato. With melted crumbled cheddar on top, and some odd tomato conserve. One third was plain, with just rosemary, one third I accidentally added pumpkin pie spice, one third had a mild molé seasoning. The first third was like a very fancy accompaniment to chicken in a pot pie, middle third tasted like something found in an interesting savory pie. I imagined that I had come in from the lovely garden you were in & there was "lunch".
sounds delicious!!
I love it! The hat is awesome. I love your shoes. I have been looking everywhere for some.
Thank you!! If you're in the UK, Civil War Sutler sells them. Darcy Clothing also has a nice Victorian pair for sale 😊
Incredibly well done! Love the color as well.
Thank you very much! Terracotta is a beautiful colour.
Incredible!! So much work but so well done! Lovely skills you have.
Thank you, that’s very much appreciated 😊
This is absolutely stunning!
Thank you!! 💕
Everything about this is Stunning , such a beautiful colour and such impressive dedication to creating it you deserve a lot more subscribers xx
Thank you very much Tabitha! Xx
Amazing work! I love those feather stitches sooooooo much
Thank you Natalie ❤️
The walking suit is beautiful
Thank you, Sabrina! 😊
Incredible work and very inspiring, thank you for sharing. It's fantastic to see how well you are doing with such little experience, and turning out stunning clothes.
Thank you so much, Jeanie! 😊
it's absolutely insane that the original suit matched your measurements so perfectly. What were the odds ?? You also perfectly match the poppies in that outfit :)
I know right?! Such slim odds I’m sure. Especially with the short waist, height, and everything. I remember when I tried on the first mock-up, I got very emotional because I just had the eeriest feeling. Difficult to describe. Hahaha thank you 😊 that was an accident but it worked out well in the end.
Lol past life much :p
Fantastic!
Thanks Tim!
Lovely!
Thank you!
Beautiful ❤️ cheers to determination I guess!!
Thank you, Justyna 😊
When I first saw the material, I wasn’t certain. How foolish of me. It was an excellent choice of color and fit in the garden beautifully.
Thanks so much! I love to play with fabrics that are bold choices, so thanks for giving the colour/material a second chance 😊
That turned out so beautiful 😍 the color suits you so well too. You have some mad hand sewing skills for just starting. I'm not sure I have the patience to do something like that by hand. You are awesome.
Might I suggest for turning straps and such in the future to sew a piece of grosgrain ribbon to one end and pull it to turn to tube right side out. It works like a charm for me. Might help you in the future so you aren't using tweezers next time around. You can also use cording too, but I have found ribbon works the best.
Thank you, DesertRose! 😊 It definitely requires patience, but honestly I find that while I am hand sewing I lose track of how long has passed as I really just love it that much.
That's a brilliant idea! Thank you so, so much! I think in the future, I may also just make a strap or band using more of a Georgian construction method, with tucking under the seam allowances wrong sides to wrong sides and whip stitching. As that would remove the need to turn altogether.
Good job!
Thanks!
You did find your historical clothing twin! Amazing! And congratulations on finishing a gorgeous walking suit and matching hat! I'm so happy for you!
To answer your question, my current skirt project may be out of my comfort zone, but it has taught me at least 3 new sewing techniques!
Going without a thimble for 3 months sounds painful. I hope your hands recover quickly! Did you find your thimble afterwards?
Do you need a pressing cloth to press the wool?
Is the walking suit heavy because of the weight of the skirt?
Can you feel the cartridge pleats or are they unnoticeable?
Thank you for sharing how you made this suit!
Sorry, I forgot you only used wool flannel for the bodice lining! I got confused. Whoops.
I think I remember what you wrote in your reply, so thank you for answering my questions! I'm glad your hands are okay!
It was the interlining even. Just for a little extra added warmth 😊 and thank you!!
I love seeing things like this made as real clothes instead of costumes.
Thank you! I’ll definitely be wearing this one a lot 😊 that’s typically why I also choose more practical designs, because I don’t want to have to clean a train all the time etc, so things like riding habits and walking suits or day gowns are perfect.
A question about thimbles- I've been sewing for 16+ years, and have tried a number of different sizes/styles of thimbles but never found one that worked for me or was comfortable. As a result, I've kind of given up on them. However, I've recently started doing a lot more hand sewing than I used to, and have been considering trying thimbles again. What kind would you recommend? Yours appears to be leather? I haven't seen those before.
Absolutely amazing! You are very brave! Where are the beautiful shoes from?
Thank you! They’re from a website in the U.K. called Civil War Suttler but I must admit they aren’t very comfortable for longer term wear (I much prefer American Duchess shoes for comfort)
I would love to make this some day
You totally should! It’s in patterns of fashion 2 🥰
@@VBirchwood I will, but after I finish my regency dress with robe,,I have to thank you for your help and support
@@VBirchwood my mock up dress is going okay so far, but, Iam still doing stay stitches it that’s because Iam doing it all by hand only and iam a spaz
@@emilyparker4316 I’m glad the mock up is going so well good luck! As you’re a member of this community I assume it wasn’t intentional but “Spaz” is a slur for people with cerebral palsy and it’s a word that should be avoided if possible.
The hat looks fantastic with that brooch! I do have a question over an aspect of the construction. When threadmarking stitch lines, is the marking thread removed at the end or does it get too caught up by the construction thread?
Thanks Erica! So I have no idea how other people deal with thread marking, but what I do is either remove the thread one step ahead of my stitch, so it doesn't get caught, or I just go and unpick it from the sewing thread afterwards very, very carefully. Usually, your sewing thread won't snag it, especially if you're cautious, and also if you use a weak thread like some thin cotton one, it is pretty easy to get out of the fabric. I used some silk thread I bought deadstock for the bodice thread marking, and that was a big mistake as it was just extremely strong and so I had a difficult time removing it.
@@VBirchwood Thanks for the explanation; I have been puzzling over my question for a while!
Hi I love you videos! I made a pair of stays and it’s making my back hurt. Do you know what I can do to fix it? I’m not sure if it’s because I am lacing too tight or if it’s the construction.
Hi! Thanks so much! I’m not a doctor of course, so this isn’t medical advice and so please consult with a medical practitioner if need be. Generally though if they’re hurting you it could be due to the fit being off with the construction. You could be short or long waisted and your stays might not be accommodating for that (in the past that’s the biggest thing that’s caused them to be uncomfortable for me). I get my stays made by a corset maker custom now, typically because they can sometimes take multiple tries to get a proper fit. Generally with a very bespoke fit even lacing down quite a bit shouldn’t hurt your back. They’re probably one of the harder things to sew so well done for taking on the challenge 😊
@@VBirchwood thank you so much for the help!! It’s good to know what the problem is so I can try fixing it. You’re the best💕
My pleasure 😊 glad I could help!
Hi,
I am making this dress at the moment, but unfortunately I'm not the same size as the original dress, so I have a lot of fitting to do 😵💫
Can I ask you a question?
What didyou do with the fabric on the right side of the skirt? Where the placket is made on the left.
Did you cartridge pleat that as well, make one big pleat or fold it under the dress?
Best regards 🙂
Hi there!
Best of luck with the making of the walking suit. I'm sure it'll turn out great!
This was a couple of years ago now that I made this garment, so my memory of the construction is a bit hazy, but I seem to recall cartridge pleating that part of the skirt so that the back felt like one continuous series of cartridge pleats. It gives a very pretty effect to the skirt. Hope that helps!
Thank you 😊
Lovely job. I am curious as to your video in the reveal. Is it a friend or someone you hire to help you with them. I know how difficult it is to take videos or still photos of oneself. Just curious.
Thank you! I shoot all the footage that doesn’t include me. My partner shoots the footage that does include me (if it isn’t on a tripod because when I’m just talking to the camera I can do that myself). And I do all the editing 😊
How did you sew it without making the thread visible, like for example the hat and the skirt in the front?
Whip stitches or prick stitches generally! They’re ever so slightly visible but matching thread makes it very unnoticeable.
👍👍👍
Goodness this project was stressful to watch haha looks great though!
Hahaha thank you! It was honestly quite a stressful project because I just had no idea what I was doing most of it lol. I’m glad I’m far more comfortable with Victorian construction now.
Lol your perseverance is admirable! Glad it didn’t deter you from making more then haha 🤯
@@2enigma8 Hahaha thank you! Things are hard sometimes but that doesn't mean we should never revisit them again. Or at least that's how I try to see life 😊
@@VBirchwood definitely. Get comfortable with the uncomfortable, it’s how we get better at something. 😎
Exactly that 🥰
What a project. I guess when you stretch yourself you learn 'work arounds' and manage to unravel what the original maker/describer intended. A form of experimental archeology.
Stunning results. Perhaps time to look for some 'extras' work in media productions Miss Doolittle or is it Miss Eyre ..... just don't get too Russian and throw yourself under a train.
Thank you! I'm not sure I'd want to work in media honestly haha. Seems like a chaotic environment and I used to do some modelling and that was plenty enough already 😂 I actually am Russian, but I didn't understand the train reference.
You're stressing me out lol. I thought making a gambeson was a lot of work.
Sorry!! 😅
Me act like I have not seen a medieval woman before
😂😂