I had to revisit the power up of this board and add that a lot of people who bought this board obtained a faulty board. Being that I was one of them I must say that this video was of no use to me. No fault of Mr. RTNO AT all, he makes really good instructional videos and the hobby community is grateful. Thank you sir.
Voltage across a 1 ohm resistor is the same as the current. I=V/R Also the resistor is in series with the esc, if the resistance was much more than 1R, you would lose power to the motor.... Great videos, thanks for putting in the time to do them...
Hey Matt! I’m really happy I found this series of videos. I’m just starting my first flying wing FPV project. This is exactly what I needed to help walk me through it. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and for teaching us noobs.
Hi Matt, great video series, quick tip - when soldering a XT60 ( or any other type ) plug a spare opposite connector in, as it will help stop the pins from moving if you get them too hot and melt the plastic a bit.
Nice soldering. It was great to see your wife involved. She even handled the phallic humor well. Sorry she's not getting everything she wants (LOL). I was especially impressed by the Y joint. Nice technique.
And suddenly the third hand appears and i think " WTF! He has three hands" :-D Thats pretty cool ! I want three hands too :-( Keep up this superb work! Thx
Need a bit of help with my new F4 V2 board which I received last week or so. Connected the power wires and all worked fine. Poking around with my multi meter to check for voltage on the sbus pin and the other pins and found low voltage. Trying to check voltage on one of the small connecting boxes, I may have shorten the two pins, and now does not power the board. However, when I power the board from either the USB or SBUS , it powers the board, and get flashing blue light. When I connect to INav, everything seems to work, get solid blue light when arming, but will not start the motors. So, the question is, did I somehow blow something up. Have a F4 V3 on the way from BG, but won't be here got another 3 weeks, so don't have any other S-bus FC I can check. Motors works just fine on a KK2 board. Any idea of what could have gone wrong? Thanks in advance. Michael.
Hi Mat, Thanks for your instructional. My own F4 V2 board is giving very low battery voltage readings when I connect up my 3S battery. It's showing a pack voltage of 0.5V. have you ever had such a problem? Thanks.
High Matt, I've wired my board as you explained and after powering with 4s for about 10 seconds, LEDs go out and I think board dies( inav and ezgui don't recognize it anymore) This has happened with my first 2 FC's. Any suggestions?
Hi again matt, so the main power wires do not power the fc? I just soldered up the power wires and plugged a battery in and my fc has no power and no led, do I need to add a bec to power the fc, servos and gps?
Cheers mate, for me its not clear how you power the servos. i know the power is comming from the bec/esc but, how come this things together wired up on this board. a how to video with nano talon would be amazing. thanks
Greetings, so if i got this right if i want to install it into a copter, i just replace the ESC side XT60 with a PDB that provides everything else with power?
Howdy Grearson, yes thats right. You can take the main black wire from the battery and solder straight to the PDB, then run a thinner one up to the GND pad. However the main battery wire needs to go through the board for the current sensor to work. I have a quad here on my desk that I'm chipping away on to try out iNav in a quad. I will get to finish it as soon as I can (but busy with work currently), Matt
Matt, I used your methods, step by step on powering the Omnibus F4 V2 and got smoke. The FC will now power by usb but not fully when connected to the lipo, the green light flickers dimly. What did I do wrong?
Howdy Derrick, I have no idea I'm afraid. I'd leave everything how it is and check that there isn;t any blobs of solder that have shorted something out and also make sure you check the wiring diagram for the board you used as it may be different. Hope that helps, Matt
I Matt thank's for sharing, i apologize for my poor english and im a true noob lol, so is not clear to me why from MOTO-VCC you thake also the voltage for the cam and or vtx, from this connection is not where the full voltage of the 3/4s cell go to ESC then to the motor ? and otherwise if is that the BEC of the Fc that is not supply only 5v ? i know to be confused.. btw im noob lol Mario
Forget my question, i just investigate that more common VTx and Cam have i wide imput voltage... lol btw thaqnk's for your vy educative videos, i have suscribed ur channel !!!
it should be possible but external 5Vdc (e.g. external BEC) has to be applied after internal switch regulator of the FC board, and link to the switch internal regulator has to be opened (to have benefit of separation).
Howdy, see the other parts in this series on iNav, the servos get the power from the +5V rail on the servo connectors which comes from your ESC BEC, Matt
It depends how you power the board and what version board it is. For example you can power 5 volts to the board through pwm1 or through pwm2 if you disconnect the red wire from the ESC. On v2 and later Boards there are diodes that will select the highest volt Present to power the board and servos. So a 3s lipo would do both but I do not think there is enough headroom to power 4 or more servos without a brownout.
geo dezix if you are using an ESC with a low power BEC, say 1 amp and your servos and Rx demand is in excess of 1 amp, you will want to supply power via a ubec or similar source through pwm 2. Digital servos are very amp hungry, especially in an auto level nav mode such as Horizon or Alt Hold. The best way to check is to buy a simple servo watt meter such as this hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-compact-20a-watt-meter-and-servo-power-analyzer.html. You may be surprised at just how much load 3 or 4 servos and a rx place on the system. Especially if control surfaces are stiff.
Matthew please clean your soldering iron tip before applying the solder, it makes me want to cry every time your iron comes into view and screaming at you doesn't seem to work. Otherwise keep up the great work. Dave
![Part #4C - [FULL] Omnibus F4 V2 Board Overview for iNav & a Flying Wing](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/d2yRSgwYIuk/mqdefault.jpg)
Howdy, the FULL series for iNav with fixed wing models is available here th-cam.com/play/PLgoM4-umzSqd0clW-e_A12yKiOpV--3a2.html Enjoy! Matt
I had to revisit the power up of this board and add that a lot of people who bought this board obtained a faulty board. Being that I was one of them I must say that this video was of no use to me. No fault of Mr. RTNO AT all, he makes really good instructional videos and the hobby community is grateful. Thank you sir.
Howdy Derrick, that's sad to hear. Contact the place where you got it and I'm sure they'll help you out. Matt
RagTheNutsOff Well do, thanks.
Voltage across a 1 ohm resistor is the same as the current. I=V/R Also the resistor is in series with the esc, if the resistance was much more than 1R, you would lose power to the motor.... Great videos, thanks for putting in the time to do them...
Hey Matt, great way to splice the negative cables together, very tidy.
Hey Matt! I’m really happy I found this series of videos. I’m just starting my first flying wing FPV project. This is exactly what I needed to help walk me through it. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and for teaching us noobs.
Howdy Alex, I'm glad it helped! Matt
Hi Matt, great video series, quick tip - when soldering a XT60 ( or any other type ) plug a spare opposite connector in, as it will help stop the pins from moving if you get them too hot and melt the plastic a bit.
Nice soldering. It was great to see your wife involved. She even handled the phallic humor well. Sorry she's not getting everything she wants (LOL). I was especially impressed by the Y joint. Nice technique.
Howdy Ted, half the stuff I say can;t be put on TH-cam ;) Glad you got the sense of humour :) Matt
was waiting for your helper to blow a rasberry to cool them joints every time you said blow on the joint heheh
Hello. I always enjoy this channel. Thank you for this video. I could set up my Omnibus F4 on the xk a1200.
Congrats!
And suddenly the third hand appears and i think " WTF! He has three hands" :-D Thats pretty cool ! I want three hands too :-(
Keep up this superb work! Thx
Ta Alex!
how you power the servos, because i get only 0.25v from pwm + pin :D and if i understand correctly u just put servo connection directly on pwm port.
i accidently soldered directly onto the current sensor, like your controller at the beggining
Need a bit of help with my new F4 V2 board which I received last week or so. Connected the power wires and all worked fine. Poking around with my multi meter to check for voltage on the sbus pin and the other pins and found low voltage. Trying to check voltage on one of the small connecting boxes, I may have shorten the two pins, and now does not power the board.
However, when I power the board from either the USB or SBUS , it powers the board, and get flashing blue light. When I connect to INav, everything seems to work, get solid blue light when
arming, but will not start the motors. So, the question is, did I somehow blow something up.
Have a F4 V3 on the way from BG, but won't be here got another 3 weeks, so don't have any other S-bus FC I can check. Motors works just fine on a KK2 board.
Any idea of what could have gone wrong?
Thanks in advance.
Michael.
Hi Michael, see the common issues/tips video. The board nor arming is most likely a configuration/setup issue as indicated on your dashboard. Matt
Hi Mat, Thanks for your instructional. My own F4 V2 board is giving very low battery voltage readings when I connect up my 3S battery. It's showing a pack voltage of 0.5V. have you ever had such a problem? Thanks.
its ok at 15:55 you confirmed you can indeed solder rectly onto the current sensor.
please matt, i noticed you soldered directly to the actual current sensor, is that ok?
High Matt, I've wired my board as you explained and after powering with 4s for about 10 seconds, LEDs go out and I think board dies( inav and ezgui don't recognize it anymore) This has happened with my first 2 FC's. Any suggestions?
Do you guys still use this fc board?
Hi. Have u had any issues with this board. Plus. Can u fit crossfire to it cuz can’t find the tx and Rx pins
Hi Craig, XF is just SBUS or PPM, as you set the output from the receiver. ip back and see the pin layout for your board and work from there. Matt
RagTheNutsOff thanks for reply. That leaves me with 3 pins but I need 4 for Xf. Tx rx ? That’s wat I’m stuck on
The board is the one ur using. Omnibus f4 pro. I can do it no problem on my quads but struggling with this
Hi again matt, so the main power wires do not power the fc? I just soldered up the power wires and plugged a battery in and my fc has no power and no led, do I need to add a bec to power the fc, servos and gps?
Howdy Vaug, on the V2 it should power the main controller when applying the pack voltage. Matt
your helper has pretty hands!
Ta Jim!
Cheers mate, for me its not clear how you power the servos. i know the power is comming from the bec/esc but, how come this things together wired up on this board. a how to video with nano talon would be amazing. thanks
Howdy fella, see the inav series for this. As for a nano talon, they're same as most other models so no need for a dedicated video. Matt
Greetings, so if i got this right if i want to install it into a copter, i just replace the ESC side XT60 with a PDB that provides everything else with power?
Howdy Grearson, yes thats right. You can take the main black wire from the battery and solder straight to the PDB, then run a thinner one up to the GND pad. However the main battery wire needs to go through the board for the current sensor to work. I have a quad here on my desk that I'm chipping away on to try out iNav in a quad. I will get to finish it as soon as I can (but busy with work currently), Matt
If you put a blob of molten solder on the iron before you put it to the wire it will transfer the heat of the iron far quicker than with a dry iron!!!
Hi, how can i get 5 volts and ground for my led board?🙄
The wire stripper you have at the beginning, the one with the red handles. Brand and maybe link to online store please. Like that type of strippers.
Howdy Dave, they are "Bib Model 9", also they are about 15 years old, probably more. Matt
Matt,
I used your methods, step by step on powering the Omnibus F4 V2 and got smoke. The FC will now power by usb but not fully when connected to the lipo, the green light flickers dimly. What did I do wrong?
Howdy Derrick, I have no idea I'm afraid. I'd leave everything how it is and check that there isn;t any blobs of solder that have shorted something out and also make sure you check the wiring diagram for the board you used as it may be different. Hope that helps, Matt
RagTheNutsOff Ok I'll check alt that out. Thanks alot Matt.
Update: It was a faulty board. horrible!
Top mrs ... 12” 😂
Awsome
I Matt thank's for sharing, i apologize for my poor english and im a true noob lol, so is not clear to me why from MOTO-VCC you thake also the voltage for the cam and or vtx, from this connection is not where the full voltage of the 3/4s cell go to ESC then to the motor ? and otherwise if is that the BEC of the Fc that is not supply only 5v ? i know to be confused.. btw im noob lol
Mario
Forget my question, i just investigate that more common VTx and Cam have i wide imput voltage... lol btw thaqnk's for your vy educative videos, i have suscribed ur channel !!!
Can I have voltage indication + current sense and not power up the board from the battery?
Errrrr no, as the sensors won't be able to work without a power supply! Matt
it should be possible but external 5Vdc (e.g. external BEC) has to be applied after internal switch regulator of the FC board, and link to the switch internal regulator has to be opened (to have benefit of separation).
Says to the wife,... you prefer 12 inches don't you??? LMAO!!!!!
hi matt, where does the servo get its power?
Howdy, see the other parts in this series on iNav, the servos get the power from the +5V rail on the servo connectors which comes from your ESC BEC, Matt
It depends how you power the board and what version board it is. For example you can power 5 volts to the board through pwm1 or through pwm2 if you disconnect the red wire from the ESC. On v2 and later Boards there are diodes that will select the highest volt
Present to power the board and servos. So a 3s lipo would do both but I do not think there is enough headroom to power 4 or more servos without a brownout.
Tim Arnold, why would you disconnect red wire from esc, that's the one that supplies power?
geo dezix if you are using an ESC with a low power BEC, say 1 amp and your servos and Rx demand is in excess of 1 amp, you will want to supply power via a ubec or similar source through pwm 2. Digital servos are very amp hungry, especially in an auto level nav mode such as Horizon or Alt Hold. The best way to check is to buy a simple servo watt meter such as this hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-compact-20a-watt-meter-and-servo-power-analyzer.html. You may be surprised at just how much load 3 or 4 servos and a rx place on the system. Especially if control surfaces are stiff.
Perfect Tutorial , You're right That RSSI wire is a twat Lol .. Cheers
Isn't it just!
I think it was not design to use the pin on these boards (it's optional, but no prefered), RSSI was pre-designed to be using via SBUS/PPM link.
Matt,
Why would anyone do this if it has to be hooked up to a PDB?
Hi Derrick, it does not need to be hooked up to a PDB. See the rest of the series, I don't use one. Matt
RagTheNutsOff ok, sorry.
You actually don't need such thick power cables.... 16AWG is much thinner and good for 25A
Morning, ah thats an issue then as several of my models draw 40A or more. This setup was not just used in one model, Matt
Cool. Love your videos man. Helping me a lot.
Matthew please clean your soldering iron tip before applying the solder, it makes me want to cry every time your iron comes into view and screaming at you doesn't seem to work. Otherwise keep up the great work. Dave
Howdy Dave, yea and adding a shed load of extra flux to the joint too :) Matt
The tip of your iron is driving me nuts. Clean that thing man
Hey Dan, ha! My £8.99 soldering iron is still going well. Had a new tip 2 weeks ago. Matt
Lucky man you have a good cheese and kisses
I look at the soldering iron and am like EWWWW! Clean it already!
It looks disgusting!
And if he was to put a bigger tip in this would have been much easier to do and watch