I have the same 2020 WRX you had. I installed my Radium catch cans 1500 miles ago and checked it today. I found 3/4 inch of liquid inside and it smells like fuel. And I run ethanol too, like you did on this car. Looks like its normal.
just bought thise and im pretty excited to install it. whats amazing is you dont have to loosen the nuts all the way to take it off out of the bracket 🤙 thanks for the vid. cheers 👍
A lot of people say the fluid inside catch cans is created from condensation, and that the fluid wouldn’t even exist with an AOS... which I don’t really understand. Because tuners will always tell you that catch cans do a better job at cleaning than an AOS. People just don’t like the maintenance I guess
why not use a fluid extractor pump through the dip stick hole? Now that I have these, this seems like a small pain to actually empty the cans; having to remove them in this manner.
the single can just runs to one of the vents (I think the rear CCV). Radium also makes an air-oil-separator too that lives over by the brake master cylinder. I thought about their AOS, but chose the two-can system instead.
Did you check this again since making this video? If the CCV still has nothing would you say its not worth it? I'm looking at both but doubling the price for one can to practically do nothing seems a little wasteful.
@@StreetInspired1 I thought the same thing lol, but I pulled off my turbo inlet and intercooler and there was zero oil. I’m using the mishimoto dual catch cans and the mishimoto oil cooler. It reduces my oil temps by 35 degrees
The PCV system before a catch can install would direct oil vapor back into the intake manifold, thus being burned in the combustion chamber. This decreases fuel octane and knock resistance. It also creates carbon buildups on the intake valves that are known to make an engine run rough. So yes, those liquids would damage the engine over time.
@@esg_zom3319 Agreed...so dumb. Cost hundreds of dollars just to walnut blast (unless you DIY) every 30k miles unless you install a catch can or AOS which also cost hundreds of dollars? Well I guess I can blame myself for not knowing that this is common in DI engines lol
@@stevep4236 ...but the cans are a one-time expense. after your first walnut blast, the cans will or should help pay for themselves. Im at 72k and have not done any valve cleaning. I'm going to install these cans and continue to drive the car. Do my valves need to be cleaned...probably, but I'm not overly concerned about it. I just wish there was an easier way to see the intake valves instead of dismantling the the intake and TGVs...
IAG's AOS is probably the best AOS on the market. The street system is good for the stock turbo but the internal valves can fail with upgraded turbo setup so the race system is good for an upgraded turbo. But unlike the catch cans the AOS never needs drained because it drains directly back into oil pan, this is the reason I prefer catch cans because with the AOS sludge can build up from moisture and get drained and mixed into the oil. They should be broken down and cleaned every so often, but they are a lot less maintenance than the catch cans. Hope this helps!
This is from my tuners website. He explains his reasoning pretty well "In ranking of keeping contaminants out of the engine 1 - Radium catch cans 2 - IAG race/comp 3 - IAG street I usually recommend the Street for daily driven vehicles simply because it is a maintenance free item. But from a performance standpoint of keeping oil and fuel vapors out of the engine, catch cans are ultimately the best solution. If you are running an upgraded turbo, then the comp/race setup or catch cans should be considered a requirement. The increased crank pressure can cause the street aos valves to fail which can ultimately lead to engine failure. AOS help eliminate carbon buildup on the valves. Does an AOS require a tune, STREET no, RACE yes. Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install. After AOS install it is imperative to bleed the coolant system as you have introduced air bubbles which can cause overheating. All AOS’s suffer from “sludge”. They attempt to prevent this by running coolant through the can to heat the system, but the return line is not heated. When the temp drops below 40*, moisture will accumulate in the return line and then mix with the oil and form the sludge pictured below. This sludge is extremely common in cold temperatures and even more prevalent when using e85. Running an AOS requires you to check this and either clean or replace the hose. Many people run 3,000 mile oil change intervals due to this sludge and fuel dilution, but I took my car out to 8,000 miles several times and the Used Oil Analysis always came back excellent."
Depending on how I drive the car I change at different intervals. If I'm beating on it amlt like in the spring and summer months I do 3k changes. In the winter my oil still looks clear after 3k so I go 4-5k
You def don’t need to change it ever 2500 miles that’s a waste of money and adds to the cost of ownership. 5k is just fine. 3k is for conventional oil.
@@weldingjunkie I rather play it safe. And if you own a WRX or STI you should be able to do your own oil changes. Just record a small clip on social media as documentation for resale purposes. And 60 bucks 2 to 4 times a year is nothing compared with gas prices. Just my 2 cents.
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I have the same 2020 WRX you had. I installed my Radium catch cans 1500 miles ago and checked it today. I found 3/4 inch of liquid inside and it smells like fuel. And I run ethanol too, like you did on this car. Looks like its normal.
just bought thise and im pretty excited to install it. whats amazing is you dont have to loosen the nuts all the way to take it off out of the bracket 🤙 thanks for the vid. cheers 👍
Always a good thing when the parts you install do their job!
A lot of people say the fluid inside catch cans is created from condensation, and that the fluid wouldn’t even exist with an AOS... which I don’t really understand. Because tuners will always tell you that catch cans do a better job at cleaning than an AOS. People just don’t like the maintenance I guess
why not use a fluid extractor pump through the dip stick hole? Now that I have these, this seems like a small pain to actually empty the cans; having to remove them in this manner.
That was condensation that the intake would of burnt up and shot out. I’m sure it’s catching a tad but idk how much it’ll catch year over year
Hey man what’s the difference between the single and dual catch can setup?
the single can just runs to one of the vents (I think the rear CCV). Radium also makes an air-oil-separator too that lives over by the brake master cylinder. I thought about their AOS, but chose the two-can system instead.
When I was taking the back can out to drain it, I accidently dropped the half full can all in to the engine bay lmao 🤦♂️
That's a bad day 😅
Do you need a tune if you install this ?
No tune required for these catch cans
Did you check this again since making this video? If the CCV still has nothing would you say its not worth it? I'm looking at both but doubling the price for one can to practically do nothing seems a little wasteful.
I drive around 10k miles before I drain mine, and I barely make enough to fill a shot glass
Damn thats either and efficient motor or an inefficient catch can lol
@@StreetInspired1 I thought the same thing lol, but I pulled off my turbo inlet and intercooler and there was zero oil. I’m using the mishimoto dual catch cans and the mishimoto oil cooler. It reduces my oil temps by 35 degrees
@@Hypnotoad206 thats awesome! I had the mishimoto Cans on my last wrx and they did great!
@@StreetInspired1 the only part I hate is clamping the PCV valve on the crank case lol
@@StreetInspired1 that’s great man. Once I installed the oil cooler, my wrx stopped consuming oil lol
Question, would those liquids be burned the engine and would it damage it?
The PCV system before a catch can install would direct oil vapor back into the intake manifold, thus being burned in the combustion chamber. This decreases fuel octane and knock resistance. It also creates carbon buildups on the intake valves that are known to make an engine run rough. So yes, those liquids would damage the engine over time.
@@esg_zom3319 Yet this is a known problem and they continue to still do this in the next gen WRX?
@@stevep4236 exactly, it’s dumb. It can’t even be for emissions (like an EGR, which is the dumbest emissions component ever)
@@esg_zom3319 Agreed...so dumb. Cost hundreds of dollars just to walnut blast (unless you DIY) every 30k miles unless you install a catch can or AOS which also cost hundreds of dollars? Well I guess I can blame myself for not knowing that this is common in DI engines lol
@@stevep4236 ...but the cans are a one-time expense. after your first walnut blast, the cans will or should help pay for themselves. Im at 72k and have not done any valve cleaning. I'm going to install these cans and continue to drive the car. Do my valves need to be cleaned...probably, but I'm not overly concerned about it. I just wish there was an easier way to see the intake valves instead of dismantling the the intake and TGVs...
Cocktail molotov catchcan
Does the iag aos do the same
IAG's AOS is probably the best AOS on the market. The street system is good for the stock turbo but the internal valves can fail with upgraded turbo setup so the race system is good for an upgraded turbo. But unlike the catch cans the AOS never needs drained because it drains directly back into oil pan, this is the reason I prefer catch cans because with the AOS sludge can build up from moisture and get drained and mixed into the oil. They should be broken down and cleaned every so often, but they are a lot less maintenance than the catch cans. Hope this helps!
@@StreetInspired1 thx man
just buy an AOS and it could be in the engine
Why catch can vs aos?
This is from my tuners website. He explains his reasoning pretty well
"In ranking of keeping contaminants out of the engine
1 - Radium catch cans
2 - IAG race/comp
3 - IAG street
I usually recommend the Street for daily driven vehicles simply because it is a maintenance free item. But from a performance standpoint of keeping oil and fuel vapors out of the engine, catch cans are ultimately the best solution.
If you are running an upgraded turbo, then the comp/race setup or catch cans should be considered a requirement. The increased crank pressure can cause the street aos valves to fail which can ultimately lead to engine failure.
AOS help eliminate carbon buildup on the valves. Does an AOS require a tune, STREET no, RACE yes. Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.
After AOS install it is imperative to bleed the coolant system as you have introduced air bubbles which can cause overheating.
All AOS’s suffer from “sludge”. They attempt to prevent this by running coolant through the can to heat the system, but the return line is not heated. When the temp drops below 40*, moisture will accumulate in the return line and then mix with the oil and form the sludge pictured below. This sludge is extremely common in cold temperatures and even more prevalent when using e85. Running an AOS requires you to check this and either clean or replace the hose. Many people run 3,000 mile oil change intervals due to this sludge and fuel dilution, but I took my car out to 8,000 miles several times and the Used Oil Analysis always came back excellent."
Why you like catch cans bettter?
Bleh, Yuck. Good investment!
Please for love of baby Jesus, even if you have 5000 mile oil change it at 3k most in these cars. If you're able to 2500 miles.
Depending on how I drive the car I change at different intervals. If I'm beating on it amlt like in the spring and summer months I do 3k changes. In the winter my oil still looks clear after 3k so I go 4-5k
But the reason I said my oil change wasn't due yet was I installed them 3k miles ago but changed my oil 1,300 miles ago lol
You def don’t need to change it ever 2500 miles that’s a waste of money and adds to the cost of ownership. 5k is just fine. 3k is for conventional oil.
@@weldingjunkie I rather play it safe. And if you own a WRX or STI you should be able to do your own oil changes. Just record a small clip on social media as documentation for resale purposes. And 60 bucks 2 to 4 times a year is nothing compared with gas prices. Just my 2 cents.