Does that 4.8 have a name? It’s a star on this channel. I imagine there are pictures of that motor on Richard ‘s desk right next to the pictures of the family.
Power goes up with intake flow increases, boost goes down. When you improve the exhaust side, power goes up, boost goes up also. Very nice vid as usual.
My takeaway is that the $2200 worth of cylinder heads are not a great value for 90% of people who would run a turbo LS. I'll just command a couple more psi of boost instead, haha. Keep up the good work Richard!
The power stroke is like a baby's kiss compared to the forces of reversing the piston's direction at TDC and BDC. In fact, higher cylinder pressure softens this force at TDC on the compression stroke. Adding heads and cam timing extends the RPM range higher where forces increase exponentially. Valvetrain, connecting rods, and bearings suffer more from high rpm operation. The issue with more boost comes in with detonation. More boost requires higher quality fuel, and intake temperatures skyrocket as pressure ratios increase. If you're running an intercooler and E85 on the street, just gap the rings, crank the boost and watch your tune.
I think cams that need a review are the SDPC (Scoggin Dickey) LS6 Powermax & Powermax Plus cams. In their videos, they don't kill low end torque and make really good power over stock in a 5.3. I'd like to see how they compare to the BTR truck torque & Stage 1/2 cams, especially in a 4.8 and with boost. Basically this same video but with different cam options. Maybe compare the numbers to the Crane cam mentioned in other videos too.
I’d like to see a test with your famous 4.8 topped with a TBSS intake and a turbo using the N/A 224 cam that did really well in your SC cam video. Essentially a Holderen’s greatest hits 4.8 combo that you could point someone to and call it “The Recipe”
Stock 4.8 with a turbo, are valve springs needed? What about with the mild cam your talking about valve springs needed? Bigger injectors also? Thanks Richard.
With the heads you compared power at boost levels not max power with a different setup, I’m usually a fan but this seemed pointless bc you can just turn up the boat to make the same power.
Richard, since you are obviously not afraid of JDM-land, I am surprised that (for simplicity if nothing else) you haven't tried a 4.8L with internally gated twins on simply upside-down stock exhaust manifolds (front facing/pointing up) with a common pair of GT28 T3's such as the singles found stock on a Nissan SR20 or a Mitsu Big16/20G type of thing. With these turbos being mainly found in Single applications on 2.0 up to 2.4L 4Cyls and the fact that 4.8/2 = 2.4L, wouldn't a pair of these make for a simple installation ? Internal flapper gates @ 8-12psi, easy dual exhaust out of the T3 exhaust housings etc. I had a pair of these make 500+whp on an RB26 in a Skyline GTR. I would think that the 4.8 would be a prime candidate for this type of installation and ease of use even carbureted. The only downside is that the turbos need both oil and water. Something to consider ?
My thoughts are that it’s better to build the combo to make the most power with the least boost. Boost is pressure and pressure is stress on parts. The less stress on the parts the longer the motor will last.
The power stroke is like a baby's kiss compared to the forces of reversing the piston's direction at TDC and BDC. In fact, higher cylinder pressure softens this force at TDC on the compression stroke. Adding heads and cam timing extends the RPM range higher where forces increase exponentially. The issue with more boost comes in with detonation. More boost requires higher quality fuel, and intake temperatures skyrocket as pressure ratios increase. If you're running an intercooler and E85 on the street, just gap the rings, crank the boost and watch your tune.
I think that is the safe approach for most people, the selection of heads and cam consistent with drivability and fuel mileage. With lots of boost, even with intercoolers the tune gets pretty finicky to avoid detonation.
Is it a good idea to upgrade to better head bolts or studs for boost on this application, or does that only become a factor if have a built motor running say 30psi +?
Quick question ⁉️ is their any different if I delete the factory EFI to efi carbs set up with stage 2 cam with the 410 rear gear at the rear end with the twin turbo set up in the 862 heads on the 4.8 I have
Are VS racing turbos a good option for a street car (driving every day) and are the gen 2 turbos worth the extra money? How do you feel about low boost (10-15 PSI) closed throttle body turbo flutter?
I have a question. Perhaps you have the answers since nobody has any clue. I have crack three oil pans. All three oil pans all cracked at the same corner. The last nut by the oil filter on the block. As I am torquing it down to 18lbs it keeps cracking that same corner. I even loosened the rear cover & the oil pan still cracked. I'm going tomorrow again to grab another oil pan from the junkyard
@@DJones-xf7gw thank you for reading my comments & trying to help. No one so far has an answer to what is going on. As of what you said, there is nothing around the two holes. The block is completely clear. I have crack four oil pans already. It always cracks at the same bolt as I torque it down to 18lbs. It's the last bolts on the corner by the oil filter. I even tried to loosen the rear cover & it still cracks. No matter what I do it still cracks.
@@mirabalmedia look at it really close. It’s easy to miss. The piece of the gasket is all metal the same color as the block and pan. Drag your finger nail across it. The only way it will crack like that is if it not level. Something is holding it up. Watch as you tighten it slowly and see what the gap looks like
I would want the upgraded heads just to know everything is fresh. I like changing/upgrading things though. I have a 1/8 4wd rc monster truck that from start to finish costs over $1800
Does that 4.8 have a name? It’s a star on this channel. I imagine there are pictures of that motor on Richard ‘s desk right next to the pictures of the family.
LR4 (Gen 3) Ironblock
Sheila (sweetcheeks) Holdener
Power goes up with intake flow increases, boost goes down. When you improve the exhaust side, power goes up, boost goes up also. Very nice vid as usual.
My takeaway is that the $2200 worth of cylinder heads are not a great value for 90% of people who would run a turbo LS. I'll just command a couple more psi of boost instead, haha. Keep up the good work Richard!
I really want to buy a cheap 4.8L LR4 powered truck to turn into a project car, and this video makes me want to even more!
I have too many projects at the moment but man, those trickflow heads are sexy. I’d love to build an LS.
The power stroke is like a baby's kiss compared to the forces of reversing the piston's direction at TDC and BDC. In fact, higher cylinder pressure softens this force at TDC on the compression stroke. Adding heads and cam timing extends the RPM range higher where forces increase exponentially. Valvetrain, connecting rods, and bearings suffer more from high rpm operation. The issue with more boost comes in with detonation. More boost requires higher quality fuel, and intake temperatures skyrocket as pressure ratios increase. If you're running an intercooler and E85 on the street, just gap the rings, crank the boost and watch your tune.
Love the 4.8 content. Have one in 00 chevy
I think cams that need a review are the SDPC (Scoggin Dickey) LS6 Powermax & Powermax Plus cams. In their videos, they don't kill low end torque and make really good power over stock in a 5.3. I'd like to see how they compare to the BTR truck torque & Stage 1/2 cams, especially in a 4.8 and with boost. Basically this same video but with different cam options. Maybe compare the numbers to the Crane cam mentioned in other videos too.
I’d like to see a test with your famous 4.8 topped with a TBSS intake and a turbo using the N/A 224 cam that did really well in your SC cam video. Essentially a Holderen’s greatest hits 4.8 combo that you could point someone to and call it “The Recipe”
we ran this combo with the 224 cam as well
@@richardholdener1727 do you remember what it made?
Wow, that was great information.
I’ve going like crazy trying to find that cam but I can’t, do you think you can post the link? I’m trying to start the process to turbo my truck
Stock 4.8 with a turbo, are valve springs needed? What about with the mild cam your talking about valve springs needed? Bigger injectors also? Thanks Richard.
Upgraded springs are really never a bad thing.
ALWAYS INJECTORS ARE NEEDED, SPRINGS ARE A GOOD IDEA
Always kick add info that always saves cash ! Thank you Sir
Would you have a part # for those pistons ?
With the heads you compared power at boost levels not max power with a different setup, I’m usually a fan but this seemed pointless bc you can just turn up the boat to make the same power.
Richard, since you are obviously not afraid of JDM-land, I am surprised that (for simplicity if nothing else) you haven't tried a 4.8L with internally gated twins on simply upside-down stock exhaust manifolds (front facing/pointing up) with a common pair of GT28 T3's such as the singles found stock on a Nissan SR20 or a Mitsu Big16/20G type of thing. With these turbos being mainly found in Single applications on 2.0 up to 2.4L 4Cyls and the fact that 4.8/2 = 2.4L, wouldn't a pair of these make for a simple installation ? Internal flapper gates @ 8-12psi, easy dual exhaust out of the T3 exhaust housings etc. I had a pair of these make 500+whp on an RB26 in a Skyline GTR. I would think that the 4.8 would be a prime candidate for this type of installation and ease of use even carbureted. The only downside is that the turbos need both oil and water. Something to consider ?
those are hard to find and not really more desirable than cheap turbos on line anymore.
My thoughts are that it’s better to build the combo to make the most power with the least boost. Boost is pressure and pressure is stress on parts. The less stress on the parts the longer the motor will last.
The power stroke is like a baby's kiss compared to the forces of reversing the piston's direction at TDC and BDC. In fact, higher cylinder pressure softens this force at TDC on the compression stroke. Adding heads and cam timing extends the RPM range higher where forces increase exponentially. The issue with more boost comes in with detonation. More boost requires higher quality fuel, and intake temperatures skyrocket as pressure ratios increase. If you're running an intercooler and E85 on the street, just gap the rings, crank the boost and watch your tune.
I think that is the safe approach for most people, the selection of heads and cam consistent with drivability and fuel mileage.
With lots of boost, even with intercoolers the tune gets pretty finicky to avoid detonation.
Right on
Is it a good idea to upgrade to better head bolts or studs for boost on this application, or does that only become a factor if have a built motor running say 30psi +?
Many people run past 20 psi on stock bolts and gaskets
Sloppy mechanic has proven that stock bolts are good enough. You can do head studs if you want but they’re not necessary.
If your putting different heads on you might as well upgrade but if your not taking the head off you’ll be fine
@@ZaphodBeeblebrox042 not only stock, but reused torque to yield bolts with reused copper sprayed head gaskets lol
I would love to see what cheap vs big$ turbo torque test. Like does twin turbo housing size vs overall size affect the low end torque output?
Quick question ⁉️ is their any different if I delete the factory EFI to efi carbs set up with stage 2 cam with the 410 rear gear at the rear end with the twin turbo set up in the 862 heads on the 4.8 I have
is there any difference between stock and a twin turbo, carb 4.8L? Yes
@@richardholdener1727 all stock as I known of yes
Aunt seen that type of head in a heads
4.8
@@richardholdener1727 all factory stock on the engine
Are VS racing turbos a good option for a street car (driving every day) and are the gen 2 turbos worth the extra money? How do you feel about low boost (10-15 PSI) closed throttle body turbo flutter?
use a BOV
Many people tell me that if I buy brand new assembled heads I should lap the valves before installing the heads. What are your thoughts on that?
we never do on new heads-I do on junkyard razor blade rebuilds
Personally I blame squirrels
I'm with JW. Im outta my tree proclaiming this Universal Truth. This is Nukkin Futts and Never Getz Old.
Love your videos sir u r awesome 👌
I have a question. Perhaps you have the answers since nobody has any clue. I have crack three oil pans. All three oil pans all cracked at the same corner. The last nut by the oil filter on the block. As I am torquing it down to 18lbs it keeps cracking that same corner. I even loosened the rear cover & the oil pan still cracked. I'm going tomorrow again to grab another oil pan from the junkyard
check the rivets in the factory gasket-seems like something is holding up the pan and when you tighten it down, it breaks
@@richardholdener1727 there are no rivets. I think it's something with the front or rear cover?... I even loosen up the rear cover & it still cracked.
There’s a piece of the gasket near the oil filter that stays on the block on causes this issue. It’s the piece around the two holes
@@DJones-xf7gw thank you for reading my comments & trying to help. No one so far has an answer to what is going on. As of what you said, there is nothing around the two holes. The block is completely clear. I have crack four oil pans already. It always cracks at the same bolt as I torque it down to 18lbs. It's the last bolts on the corner by the oil filter. I even tried to loosen the rear cover & it still cracks. No matter what I do it still cracks.
@@mirabalmedia look at it really close. It’s easy to miss. The piece of the gasket is all metal the same color as the block and pan. Drag your finger nail across it. The only way it will crack like that is if it not level. Something is holding it up. Watch as you tighten it slowly and see what the gap looks like
About time
That cam would be better for drag racing compared to the stock one.
That got damn music Richard?!? 😹😹😹
👍
Elgin 1838-p 216/220
Hey John!
Would that turbo 4.8 fit in a 2010 Explorer?
yes
I would want the upgraded heads just to know everything is fresh. I like changing/upgrading things though. I have a 1/8 4wd rc monster truck that from start to finish costs over $1800
Anyone put ls9 cam in 4.8? I did but had to add spacer to cam gear in order not to lock cam and gear to space plate but runs like a dream
there should be no spacer plate-the ls9 cam bolts right in
Ok I guess I meant to say cam retaining plate not spacer.
Considering how cheap these turbos are, and more power is always better 😎 what's the upper limits on this but twin turbos?
And pros and cons on two vs. single?
(Think you done a video about it before, but can't find it right now...)
we made 1543 hp with a stock bottom end 6.0L, the limits are high
Yeah, 1500+ would be enough for me! 😉 Especially since my -53 Stude only fits 235's in the rear.
226 cam a small cam for the 4.8? I have a 216/220 112 lsa and I think even that's too big for it
I said the 226 cam is bigger than i would use on a 4.8
@@richardholdener1727 I must not of heard that apologies.
Too bad you can't patent that music
Its not junkyard