Slitting and drifting holes - ornamental blacksmithing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- The slit and drift method of forging a hole in an iron bar is a classic blacksmithing technique. By using the slit and drift you can create a hole larger than the bar being pierced.
Thank you for watching. Black Bear Forge is a small one person shop located in Southern Colorado.
If you would like to provide financial support to my TH-cam channel visit
www.paypal.me/BlackBearForge
or donate monthly through Patreon
/ blackbearforge
Find my shop on line at:
www.blackbearforge.com
www.blackbearforge.etsy.com
/ blackbearforge
/ black-bear-forge-20986...
The following list provides just a few resources to help you find supplies and equipment for blacksmithing.
www.piehtoolco.com/
www.centaurforge.com/
www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
www.blacksmithbolt.com/
www.oldworldanvils.com/
www.nimbaanvils.com/
fontaninianvilandtool.com/
www.abana.org/
www.mcmaster.com
kensironstore.com/
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
![เบิ้ล ปทุมราช - อ้ายกินดอง น้องลาบงัว ft. สแน็ก อัจฉรีย์ [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-OK--KaSPcI/mqdefault.jpg)
John your teaching and presentations are a God send. Absolutely brilliant and easy to take in, thank you for your diligence.........🇦🇺
upsetting the bar before you split to avoid suck in, what a master technique
I have been practicing making some rustic metal rings. I don’t have any capability to drill the holes, so I am trying methods like and similar to this one. I am currently still laying in bed as it is nearing 11 in the morning/afternoon. I told myself I would get up and work on my project, but then my cats fell asleep on me and I’m trapped. I’ve been watching some of your videos as motivation to get up and go work on stuff. I really appreciate all of your great tutorials and sharing of information. Thank you.
Darn cats 😁
That is an elegant set of holes. I really like the look of the donut shaped holes.
To protect my anvil face when slitting, I took a plate about two inches wider than my anvil and bent the ends down over each side. That ensures a large area to work on and ensures the plate stays put.
Bonus points if you use a relatively soft metal like copper so that you aren't as likely to mess up your tools.
Man, you made that look so easy. Well done and beautiful work
Very nice. Thanks for taking time to explain and teach.
I must say John, you have shown me what this should look like and how to achieve that...I have done this before but now I know how to remedy my mistakes.. Thanks again....
Hey Brother John. Yet another great instructional video. thx.
I am fortunate enough to have a signed copy of the Francis Whitaker's "Cookbook"
Thank you 👍
Great practice piece, I will put on my to do list!
a great way to do the user end of a frying pan handle, add width for gripping without adding weight,
I have just recently started watching your videos (subscribed as well), and wish to compliment you on the quality of your work. I have been smithing for several years and appreciate your demonstration methods.
Your video quality is very good; among the best. I particularly appreciate the way you don't rush through a project like this, the time you take to explain each step and why, and your attention to detail even though it was just a demonstration piece. I strongly recommend your videos to any smith, beginning or experienced, since there is always something new or better to learn.
Thank you so much for the compliment. I am glad you are enjoying the viodeos
Beautiful job in the slit and round drift, love the look and feel of that style. Any chance of a slit and drift with a square and diamond hole, dressing the diamond with very blocks and what to watch out for with square holes? I've been a hobby Smith for 30+ years and TH-cam is a great place to learn. Thanks allot Joe
Beautiful.
Thanks
Thanks, John!
The new lighting is really making seeing your work a lot better for video!! I'm thinking the upsetting from each end is what shortened the overall length, but not the middle section.
I think you are right. But I am still surprised. It has been a while since I did this on a project, but I seem to recall that the bar shortened overall with each hole.
Thank you for another interesting and educating video. I appreciate it.....
Thought it may have been interesting to measure the length of bar after the first hole but that's just me.Great instruction,as usual, and your work is always something to behold.Thanks again as I believe you make us all better smiths!
Very nice help thank you
FYI the book can be purchased at centaur forge or on eBay for around $40 US.
Thanks, I thought it had gone out of print
Love your teaching video's John. When I do some drifting etc, and holding a punch with tongs like I did yesterday, I use a tong clip to hold it all tight.
For the punch or chisel i think that is a very good idea. For a drift that gets driven all of the way through, the clip might be less desirable.
Sorry, John, I meant for the punching/chiseling.
I like it; I like it
I Got some good ideas fr on this one.
Nice technique. Only one hammer miss. LOL Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
well only one that made it in the video anyway
Good demo John thanks for showing ,I saw the maths bit and Pye and all that I'm thinking I wanna be a bus driver instead lol .I hate maths with a passion .
The Blacksmiths Cook Book available from Centaur Forge $40 US.
Hydrogen embrittlement occurs when mild steel is quenched above transformation temperature.
I hope u check old vid comments wondering bout drifting round stock for round bar 3/8 to be precise
Many people use a swage with a slot in the base to slit round bar. It keeps it from deforming on the flat anvil.
Great information. I like Wellllllll your videos, they are geared to what I want to learn.
A for the lighting, I prefer the lights with yellow gel cover. It lends a more natural light, we can see your face.
2:49 "We're stuck with fractions and inches in this country"
Machinists: *Chuckling in Thau*
This was a wonderful lesson, John! Right on the heels of the video about punching holes we got to witness the differences between the two techniques. Thank you, sir.
I see that you have the horn under your hammer hand. Does that make any real difference? I am right handed too but somehow got started with the horn off to my left. It "feels" natural to me but I have not been doing this long enough to know if I am setting myself up for more difficulties down the road. Your input would be much appreciated.
I went ahead and did a short video on the pros and cons of one vs the other, it should be ready this evening.
greetings from belgum
Hello
On a bar that short, wouldn't the upset be easier if you stood it up on the cutting step? So you are striking straight down against the mass of the anvil?
It would be. But this is a bit different and easier than a regular upset, so i didn't feel it was necessary. Also since this is a test piece that might apply to a much longer bar the techniques need to be consistent for accurate test results.
Good stuff. By the way that's (5X3.14)/8 the easy way.
Well that does make more sense.
And I'd like to add...
Order Date : 2/23/2018 8:50:49 PM Eastern
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ITEM# DESCRIPTION QTY TOTAL
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BK500 The Blacksmith's Cookbook: Recipes in Iron by Francis Whitaker 1 $40.00
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since you won't share... :-)
Great video. Really useful stuff to know.
You mentioned warming up your anvil. I suppose you could use a torch for that. Is that the best way?
Some smiths will heat a large piece of steel and lay it on the anvil. May require several times to get the anvil heated up to a good temp.
As Bryan mentioned, I use large bars or pieces of plate heated up in the forge. I disused cold weather issues in this video th-cam.com/video/Z2sjVom0hEo/w-d-xo.html
Looks really nice and demonstrates why you should do a test piece first. I assume it would work the same way with a square drift so you could pass another 5/8" square bar through it? Thanks John.
Yes, but its hard to get perfect square corners, so its a bit more fussy.
Hey John, at my local blacksmithing club, one of the members was demonstrating making tenons for doing grill work, and in the general discussion he was saying that its better to undershoot your measurements slightly and then stretch the metal cold. Any chance you can demo that?
I will discus that as part of the video on forging the bars for the grill. But the short answer is that i aggree
Wow! love this video. What hammer and Weight are you using?
You measured the space between the centerpoints so if finished I think you should mesure centerhole to centerhole. Am I right?
On a longer bar would you upset the same way? Thanks John
Hey John - any chance of you setting up a Patreon account anytime soon?
Got that done this morning www.patreon.com/BlackBearForge
When you say "preheating the anvil", what exactly does that entail? With that in mind would something like a magnetic oil pan heater work on an anvil? or would that wreck the anvil? I suppose for someone in the warmer states we use heaters like that to warm the oil on really cold winter days so the engine can turn over.
In very cold weather I heat large pieces of scrap, something like 1/2 x 4 x 8 and set them on the anvil while I prepare my tools and materials, it can help quite a lot. An oil block heater bight help, but a large anvil is a lot of material to try to heat with a small heater.
Hey John, Kevin from GS Resto- I just thought of an idea; if you heat up a soft block on cold mornings that you cant heat up the anvil for some reason then your punching heats can last longer and your already on a soft block to punch through. I'm on the central Oregon coast so that's not usually an issue for me but if it were I would try that as a remedy. You have MUCH more experience than I so its just an idea, let me know if it works out for you, thanks!!
Good idea
do you have a full window frame cage in the shop or pic of one on a costumers house. thanks Don
Usually a full size drawing on a piece of sheet metal is that is needed
When your anvil is cold ,how do you warm it up and how warm do you get it?
If it is painfully cold to touch it is to cold. If it just feels cool I don't worry about it. Warming it till it just starts to feel warm is plenty warm. I discus cold weather issues in this video th-cam.com/video/Z2sjVom0hEo/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for admitting the inferiority of the imperial measurement system.
Где можно скачать такую книгу?
If that was for a tomahawk handle, then would you upset to an oblong oval shape before drifting?
Possibly, it depends on how you achieved the eye to start. Tomahawks are often a wrapped and welded eye that is close to the final size before drifting.
@@BlackBearForge I didn't make it clear John. I was thinking of a railroad spike being close to the same size in material and punching the hole with a slotter. Mine being 1 1/4 x 1/8".
would it be the same in 5/8 square through 5/8 square not rounded do understand what im trying to say .
Yes. Just do some test pieces to make sure you chisel is the correct size
yay metric. (2:35)
What did you dip your chisel into at 8:20... was that beeswax?
Just plain water. For things that need extra lube I use a punch lube by Quick and Dirty tools. If I am using very delicate tools from S7 or H13 I sometimes cool them in oil
AS OF 2023 XMAS, AMAZON HAS NEW AT $51 PLUS $5 SHIPPING. THEY NOW HAVE 2 AVAIABLE.