I’d like commend and compliment Daniel on the quality and content of his videos over the last year or so. A credit to himself and very helpful to the blacksmithing and and TH-cam community. Certainly worth many more subscribers. For what it’s worth, you have earned my respect and very best wishes. Keep up the good work.
Handy dandy piece of kit there mate! Hope you got a giggle from that Sir. But seriously fine work and loaded w info i didnt know. Thank you Mr Daniel. 🙏 Blessed day and well wishes brother Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
Odd timing - I found a 1” thick 4x8 chunk of I think a36 hiding in my pile of 4140 dies - made my idea maker run towards a bolster with a few extras thrown in. My pritchel is about useless at the base of the horn on both anvils so handy to have. Good deal. Thanks for the expertise. Cant think of a nibs joke today... 🤦♂️ Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
I would have loved to see you make the drifts. More precisely the dimensions of the taper, the length to cross-sectional area ratio. How much it measures at the top and bottom, to the length of the taper.
At the start of the video there was a caption saying that the bolster plait is tool steel, later you said that it's made of mild steel. Is it ok to make a bolster from mild steel? Thanks
Hi Dan, I have a question about a previous video that you did where you re-forged a cheap hammer into a nice blacksmithing hammer. It looked as though you quenched the hammer head in water, did you? I have an old cheapo hammer that I re-forged and I'm waiting to heat treat it until I have all the details about it I ran it through 3 normalization cycles too, is that necessary? I have to yet find any info on this subject that covers everything, that's why I want some helpful advice from you...
I water quenched it cause it moved like butter which is often a sign that its a carbon steel and would be around 0.3-0.5%. This was a complete guess I might add. If your not sure start with oil. I would suggest linseed or veg oil/rape seed. If this doesn't work go for water don't over heat the metal get it to just above none magnetic. Temp to yellow 120-130 degrees Celsius. As for the normalising I only ever do it one. Or go for a full anneal.
@@dgtlmoon And again this might have also been taken the wrong way. I don't have the time to vet people and there jumped up ideas about what is or isn't part of this craft. This is also a perfectly reasonable question which you have answered with arrogances and sarcasm. You might think I'm being unfair but I would suggest by the way I and other people have reacted that you might want to think about the way you interact on the internet. Your question about skills is perfectible reasonable and deserves a fair answer when shared correctly as does this one. Please use a bit more decorum or just don't interact with other people.
@@danielmoss2089 Thanks, I will have to buy some. Another question, sorry. Where do you get your high carbon steel from. I'm in north west UK. Is it online shop or do you go and pick it up? Think your central west but could be wrong.
Everyone keeps getting the measurements wrong switching back and forth between standard and metric, according to my wrenches/sockets, 11 mil is 7/16", 13 mil is very close to 1/2", 14 mil very close to 9/16, and 16 mil is 5/8".
If people keep going on about measurements then I will just uses metric. We very rarely use stock from rolling Mills at 13. The closest we have standard is 12mm.
Common stock size for metric are 1,2,3,5,6,8,10,12,16,20,22,25,26,30 Ive seen 14 and 15 but rare. So matching a stock size to 13 make no sense. I guess you see the same in the state if I said get 11/16 by 17/64 you might struggle. As that would be 16.1mm by 6.75mm.
@@danielmoss2089 ok, so everyone is going by what's commonly available on stock, here, everything usually divided by 1/4" sizes, hadn't thought about how metrics are divided.
Why do "blacksmiths" buy this product? it seems to me that making this product involves all basic blacksmith skills.. so the same skills used in making this product, are the same as using the product.. why would people buy it?
A little rude maybe the would like to spend there time making what they want rather that making tools to make tool. Would you buy or make a grinder? Some people make there some buy. It's a relatively simple project but one is time expensive and the other is product expensive. Did you buy or make your hammer? Block of steel with a hole in it simple to me.
And this gets even more crazy with the machinist guys. Some of them like Keith Rucker to name a youtuber have the skills to cast, machine and scrape stuff. They could (and some have) made their own industrial grade machines of almost any type once they have the basics like lathe and mill. Anf if you can do that, everything else is easy. Almost all know how to grind basic cutters for lathe and mill and with a suitable grinder you can easily make your own endmills and drills. That grinder you can "easily" build on lathe and mill. If you have a couple weeks, that is. Yet the tool industry for that trade is big big biz. Why ? Because nobody got time for that....worst thing gotta be lathe work. I have made stuff like a single grubscrew on the lathe to have it on sunday. But i do not turn all my screws from hot rolled stock and mill the hex heads ;)
@@danielmoss2089 I agree ☝️ Accordingly a rounding hammer would make a really nice Christmas present 🔨 🎁 Say 2.5# or so? Ehh... That wasn’t very subtle was it. 😎
Your quality of work is directly reflected by the quality of tools regardless of skill set. Often times the most basic tool in appearance is best bought unless you can improve on the design already in use. Just because I have the skills, equipment, materials doesn't mean that i want to waste time making something that will be used countless of times if it's less quality from a professional maker.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
Great idea staggering the holes
Yes!
Thanks for sharing your excellent reasoning! Guess I need a thicker bolster plate.
Thats some thing I have been wonting to make for some time now .
thanks mate for the now how. (:
I’d like commend and compliment Daniel on the quality and content of his videos over the last year or so. A credit to himself and very helpful to the blacksmithing and and TH-cam community. Certainly worth many more subscribers.
For what it’s worth, you have earned my respect and very best wishes. Keep up the good work.
Now i know why 20mm. Thanks for explaining👍
Bolster set ordered - can't wait to receive !
ATB
Dave
I have been using the knife tongs you made me I finished 13 blades last week the tongs got a work out. Thank you again Daniel.
Very nice tooling. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work forge on God bless
Great point on staggering the holes thanks Dan!
I agree, the offset, is a bonus. Good eye Dan! 👍😀⚒️♥️🍺
Excellent and great ideas,i learn more.more power.stay safe
I recently had the idea to chisel line "crosshairs" around all the holes in my bolster plates to help locate the holes with hot metal on top.
Handy dandy piece of kit there mate!
Hope you got a giggle from that Sir.
But seriously fine work and loaded w info i didnt know. Thank you Mr Daniel.
🙏 Blessed day and well wishes brother
Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
Happy Thanksgiving, and thanks for all you've taught me.
You're doing an awesome job, that looks like a great project, keep up the good work.
Nice one. Will have to try making that one too :)
Great simple video 👍🏼
Sweeeeet they look awesome mate can't wait to get my grubby little mits on them 👍
Great video! I will try to make one since now I have a drill press, it should be easier.
Nice holes dude 😜🤟 you make great tools. I just used my hammer an hour ago 👍
This is actually useful, unlike videos like how to make a pizza cutter....
A pizza cutter is useful, some people want them and the video can be entertaining.
I made a video on how to make a pizza cutter! 😅 I thought it was OK. We made pizza dough and everything. I'm pleased you like this one.
@@randomgoat2272 I like pizza.
Odd timing - I found a 1” thick 4x8 chunk of I think a36 hiding in my pile of 4140 dies - made my idea maker run towards a bolster with a few extras thrown in. My pritchel is about useless at the base of the horn on both anvils so handy to have. Good deal. Thanks for the expertise.
Cant think of a nibs joke today... 🤦♂️
Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
I shouldn’t say “useless” just “not as useful”... everything has a use...
Lovely video ! Absoloutely awesome !
*Whisper* any news of the post vise ?
I would have loved to see you make the drifts. More precisely the dimensions of the taper, the length to cross-sectional area ratio. How much it measures at the top and bottom, to the length of the taper.
At the start of the video there was a caption saying that the bolster plait is tool steel, later you said that it's made of mild steel. Is it ok to make a bolster from mild steel? Thanks
The caption at the start of the video said it was mild steel. Mild steel is fine for this job and as long as its think enough should work great.
@@danielmoss2089 Thanks and sorry for the mix up 😳
Can you explain the chamfered side vs. The sharp square side?
Thank you
woo hoo my first first view
Great video Dan - real class!
Hi Dan, I have a question about a previous video that you did where you re-forged a cheap hammer into a nice blacksmithing hammer. It looked as though you quenched the hammer head in water, did you? I have an old cheapo hammer that I re-forged and I'm waiting to heat treat it until I have all the details about it I ran it through 3 normalization cycles too, is that necessary? I have to yet find any info on this subject that covers everything, that's why I want some helpful advice from you...
I water quenched it cause it moved like butter which is often a sign that its a carbon steel and would be around 0.3-0.5%. This was a complete guess I might add. If your not sure start with oil. I would suggest linseed or veg oil/rape seed.
If this doesn't work go for water don't over heat the metal get it to just above none magnetic.
Temp to yellow 120-130 degrees Celsius.
As for the normalising I only ever do it one. Or go for a full anneal.
Hope that helps.
What angle is your wedge on the power hammer? I made one but it’s way to steep. You could save me some time 😉
Probably less angle than yours I guess... experiment..
obviously
@@dgtlmoon And again this might have also been taken the wrong way. I don't have the time to vet people and there jumped up ideas about what is or isn't part of this craft. This is also a perfectly reasonable question which you have answered with arrogances and sarcasm. You might think I'm being unfair but I would suggest by the way I and other people have reacted that you might want to think about the way you interact on the internet.
Your question about skills is perfectible reasonable and deserves a fair answer when shared correctly as does this one. Please use a bit more decorum or just don't interact with other people.
I will need to see the dies to give you a better answer. could you email or dm me some pictures of the wedge and stuff?
Sorry I missed this .. damn it .. hahahaha
Hi. Jusk asking what steel you make the punches and drifts out of. Might try making one.
In this video it was 4140 but a tough steel even when not heat treated is best. 4130, 4140, h13, s7
@@danielmoss2089 Thanks, I will have to buy some. Another question, sorry. Where do you get your high carbon steel from. I'm in north west UK. Is it online shop or do you go and pick it up? Think your central west but could be wrong.
I sell the 4140 on my shop. www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mosscocraft
Get set! They were gone by the time I seen the video
Is that set available on your Etsy? Did not see it there.
All gone limated numbers sorry.
@@danielmoss2089 Bugger, I'll have to make own then... :-)
Spring bow, part 2 ?????
working on it when i first posted the video it didn't do some well but for some reason its gone nuts. worth doing a follow up.
Dude are you selling on Etsy? I want a hammer from you
Everyone keeps getting the measurements wrong switching back and forth between standard and metric, according to my wrenches/sockets, 11 mil is 7/16", 13 mil is very close to 1/2", 14 mil very close to 9/16, and 16 mil is 5/8".
If people keep going on about measurements then I will just uses metric. We very rarely use stock from rolling Mills at 13. The closest we have standard is 12mm.
5/8 is not as close to 16 as 11/16 which is just a hair over. With 5/8 being more like 15.4mm.
5/8 is not as close to 16 as 11/16 which is just a hair over. With 5/8 being more like 15.4mm.
Common stock size for metric are 1,2,3,5,6,8,10,12,16,20,22,25,26,30
Ive seen 14 and 15 but rare.
So matching a stock size to 13 make no sense.
I guess you see the same in the state if I said get 11/16 by 17/64 you might struggle. As that would be 16.1mm by 6.75mm.
@@danielmoss2089 ok, so everyone is going by what's commonly available on stock, here, everything usually divided by 1/4" sizes, hadn't thought about how metrics are divided.
Why do "blacksmiths" buy this product? it seems to me that making this product involves all basic blacksmith skills.. so the same skills used in making this product, are the same as using the product.. why would people buy it?
A little rude maybe the would like to spend there time making what they want rather that making tools to make tool. Would you buy or make a grinder? Some people make there some buy. It's a relatively simple project but one is time expensive and the other is product expensive. Did you buy or make your hammer? Block of steel with a hole in it simple to me.
And this gets even more crazy with the machinist guys. Some of them like Keith Rucker to name a youtuber have the skills to cast, machine and scrape stuff. They could (and some have) made their own industrial grade machines of almost any type once they have the basics like lathe and mill. Anf if you can do that, everything else is easy. Almost all know how to grind basic cutters for lathe and mill and with a suitable grinder you can easily make your own endmills and drills. That grinder you can "easily" build on lathe and mill. If you have a couple weeks, that is. Yet the tool industry for that trade is big big biz. Why ? Because nobody got time for that....worst thing gotta be lathe work. I have made stuff like a single grubscrew on the lathe to have it on sunday. But i do not turn all my screws from hot rolled stock and mill the hex heads ;)
Hubris has no place in the blacksmith community. Some blacksmiths are so busy they buy tools they don't have the time or skill level to make.
@@danielmoss2089 I agree ☝️
Accordingly a rounding hammer would make a really nice Christmas present 🔨 🎁
Say 2.5# or so?
Ehh... That wasn’t very subtle was it. 😎
Your quality of work is directly reflected by the quality of tools regardless of skill set.
Often times the most basic tool in appearance is best bought unless you can improve on the design already in use.
Just because I have the skills, equipment, materials doesn't mean that i want to waste time making something that will be used countless of times if it's less quality from a professional maker.