I enjoy that you are making tools that you really don't see a lot of blacksmiths on TH-cam making. I have been practicing my punching and riveting. So this gives me something to try.
John you are awesome. What a great inspiration you are to many of us looking into blacksmithing. Thank you for your prodigious love of your trade skills......🇦🇺
cant wait to sort my forge and other tools bet it can get addictive i dont watch tv anymore im hooked on blacksmith videos thank you john im from the north of england in a small mining vilage
This is what I like to see. You made a tool by hand with minimal power tools! As you said with a little more practice it will improve. You have opened up a lot of avenues to be a better smith. Thank you sir for your time and sharing this.
I just forged my first S-hook in a class today. Thank you for showing me that I can actually pursue blacksmithing without a bunch of money to buy dozens of tools. I might not have even signed up for a class. Luckily some future class projects are a hole punch, a chisel, and a set of tongs so I'll have a good start.
I agree. These longer videos have excellent content (as usual from B.B.F.) but also watching John’s methods of work when he’s trying something new is as inspiring as it is educational. Thanks for taking the extra time to produce these, John!
Excellent. I watched the video first thing this morning and then went to the shop. My day was rewiring a 220 outlet for a new welder. I'm not a very skilled welder yet, but I'm working on it. I made a guillotine tool a couple years ago, same general idea as yours, I only have a couple sets of dies so far. I really like the sets of dies you showed which give such a combination of sizes. I made a spring fuller by forging, but the way you made this is much much better than what I did. Again, thanks so much for posting these videos. You are single-handedly raising the general level of blacksmithing skill for the entire planet. Maybe the galaxy.
I love your videos. I’m new to smithing and I’m still making my tools. This is one that’s on my list. I hope that when I make one that it comes out half as good as yours. Oh, and I’ll be using a leaf spring off of a tractor trailer, so I think I’ll get my wife to buy a box of Wheaties!
I just finished rewatching. I certainly hope that you have gotten to the point where you add video producer to your resume, John. This is an excellent video no matter who put it together! What a great tutorial. I am off to build a couple of spring dies to work down the S1 that I bought to make tooling for my treadle hammer. I made a cut-off hardy by hand and it fits the tongs very well but boy is that S1 difficult to move. I'm hoping that the treadle hammer will bring some authority and precision to the process. You are one of the best instructors that I have had over the past 70 plus years. Thanks again.
Hi, you just became one of my favorites blacksmiths on youtube. Like DF - In The Shop, you seem to be an endless knowledge supply, and it's really great to see you share with us !
This is awesome and great information to have. Nice to see how it could be done before there was arc welding using rivets and forge welding. That being said I did purchase a 200 amp stick welder to use to make a Press as well as tooling. So for anyone in the Chicago-land area that does not have a welder and wants to make tooling requiring one send me a PM and we may be able to meet up so you can weld your pieces together. Just my way of trying to give back to the blacksmith community. all I ask is that it is a project within reason. Nice video John always enjoy your videos!
You can also look up open fabrication shops in your area I have one in the Chicagoland area called pumping station one that is only $40 a month and they have a combination TIG and stick welder as well as a milling machine and a forge for anybody that might be interested in that
Good Stuff ! Thx for showing how not to resort to a welder for hardee hole tools! I'm retired and now in the desert (warmer) and am using a wood fired forge .... electricity is optional ! I used to live near you ( higher on the mountains) and I dont miss the snow you occasionaly show. Like watchin all your stuff ...Im a reborn blacksmith now....thx again for your teachings!
Great job! This is what the old timers would have had to do. I really appreciate your instructional style of making projects, thank you. Keep up the good work.
Great Video, John! This is an excellent project. I really learned a lot watching and listening to you bring the tool together. Thank you. It sure seems to me like you could add video producer to your list of skills. This was an excellent teaching video---as good as ANY on TH-cam. Bending wrenches would make a good video.
If I claimed to be a video producer I wouldn't be able to get away with silly mistakes like forgetting to turn on the mic. Bending forks are on the list.
This U tube channel just keeps getting better and better. You answer so many questions just in the course of the video. A new video from Black bear forge is the first thing I look for every morning before I head for the shop. This video was great knowledge to file away for when I improve skills. Non the less the subject matter was riveting. One question, can I create a scarf and tig weld the edges of a piece, such as this or a pair of tongs, and then subsequently forge weld it and achieve a completely welded joint all the way through in the forge without the need for flux? Am thinking it would assist in the attaching of rein material to larger stock, if it would be a good process. Thanks.
If there is any oxygen or impurities trapped in the weld having it sealed up will trap those and it will either bot weld or be weaker. So having a polished perfectly mating surface would be important. just tack welding with the TIG allows the impurities to be forced out of the weld joint. Flux is not an absolute requirement for welding, but it can help.
The tenon tool I made was tapped and bolted, but very similar in most every respect . I just had a bucket of bolts and a new set of taps. And a good post drill. Keep up the good work.
I love your videos. Super useful. I just made myself a guillotine and I have a bunch of blank dies so I'll make this one so I can use it for the ABANA lvl 1 hook.
This is a perfect tool for my situation. Its hard for me to make spring fullers of arc welded pieces, a combination of my dinky welder and poor skill, they fall apart in use very quickly. So even though this is a pretty involved project, I think it is a good procedure generally for tooling up with minimal tools. Thanks for doing these type of projects even though you don't actually need to make tools like this in your shop. Also, I'd really love it if you did a video on files and sources for things like that monster square file you are using 22:35
I'm not an expert welder. But I do know if you are trying to weld to dissimilar metals with something like mig or stick (from personal and from the instructors I have had) the selection of rod/wire is crucial. Or if you have a TIG or oxy acetylene setup you could do a puddle weld making an alloy out of the two parent metals. I have ran into the same issues when just trying to make Hardy tools out of mild and 4140.
WAYYY better refinement of your original idea! John, this is an awesome tool. Say, where do you get your hot work gloves? Mine are great for up to almost 1,000 degrees but they're stupid bulky (they're foundry gloves). Yours look like they'd allow for a lot more dexterity.
I'm about to make my first tool of this general type. I'm one for keeping things as lite and small as possible to reduce storage requirements. I've watched half a dozen videos made by different people. I'm not sure if I'm missing an important point and would like your opinion on why everyone seems to make the distance between the dies and the spring so long. Wouldn't 4" - 6" be sufficient and facilitate turning the tool crosswise of the anvil? I'm sure there needs to be a balance between the size of the material being worked and the length referred to. Naturally that could be addressed by the size of the spring loop diameter. I enjoyed the video and the alternate rivet method for the dies. Thanks for your assistance!
Great video! Haven't built my forge yet but found that good, 100 year old, English 110lb anvil. Question: I picked up some US made spud wrenches for next to nothing, good for anything? Maybe a video on 'hacking' or repurposing old tools like that for forging. Thanks again!
Thanks John for a great video! That gives me a goal to make one. I’ll probably use mild steel since I’m still a green horn blacksmith. I’ve made a couple spring swages but I flattened out a section in 3/8 round bar for the spring before mig welding to the swage blocks. So far they work good. Would it be better to use flat bar instead?? Thanks again John. I appreciate your teachings.
When you are punching a hole Is the slug condensing before punching thru When first starting the hole as the punch is going into the metal you are working both side till the slug starts to move Whats happening to the slug
A large portion of the material is being displaced to the sides. This leaves a thin slug that is easy to shear out as the material cools. The slug doesn’t really compress. The displacement of material is why punched holes are stronger than drilled holes.
For this spring die there is both a top and bottom butcher. I can't think of any reasin to make the butcher into a die id it is only one sided. But making a regular bottom butcher that goes in the hardy hole is a bit more straight forawd of a project than this particular die.
Would nutting and bolting make more sense so you could just swap out the dues individually? Keep the same spring? Actually come to think of it if you could have two round stocks for each die for ease of swapping maybe use a cotor key or trailer pin.
Great video you are an excellent video maker. Had to laugh when you knew you had messed up with the sound but had enough foresight to mention it ahead of time after the sound came back on. Quick question. Got an arc welder and getting good enough with it now. If I were to weld a mild steel spring to two pieces of leafspring for the dies. would there not be some issues with hardening the surrounding areas of the leaf spring that are just next to the weld. Because of cooling rapidly from the leaf spring. How could that be overcome.
The key to welding on anything to a high carbon component is to preheat the pieces to something like 400 - 500 then do the weld and post heat and slow cool. Eventually it will probably still crack, but it just becomes part of the repair cycle at that point.
Great advise thank yo, makes a lot of sense. Was thinking on it a bit more. Is it possible to anneal the piece after the arc weld was done and then harden it once more? Would that make any difference too or is it a bad call.
Hey John I was going back through some of your older videos to see what I've missed. I am in the process of making Hardy hole tools , Hot cut tool and bending jig. Do you have any advice on welding shanks? Or is it better to fold the material over To make the shank? The Place where I welded my Shanks do not fit flush to my Anvil face
Sir, As a beginner Blacksmith, I have an odd question. I am using a piece of RR track for an Anvil, and an going to have a machine shop drill a hardy hole into the tack for me. Although, I have no experience with such things, I would appreciate your feedback on this though. I was doing some research on the size of the hole I should have them cut into the anvil. and I ran into 2 of the popular sizes, and got confused. So as I enjoy learning and watching your videos, Which would be the correct, err... "better" ( for lack of a better descriptor ), sized hole? 1" or 3/4" for a RR track anvil that is approx. 4" wide? Thank You in advance for you feedback!!!
How do you know what size and dimensions to make the spring? I want to make some spring tools, but I don’t know what length material to use or what the radius of the spring should be.
By the way- riveted tools looks just beautiful. This one tool is something that you could have done easier (MIG for example, but making it without welding is very interesting project) but I don't know if it could have been done prettier
I'm not sure where in this video I talked about 12' rounds of 4140. I typically buy it in 3' pieces from McMaster Carr. Yes it is expensive, but worth it compared to having to remake tools that are just mild steel. If I talked about 12' sections, it was probably salvaged material, most likely sucker rod from a well.
I was searching for "spring die" and I got lots of strange hits, one of them Vivaldi's 4 Seasons piece... Maybe spring season has a shitty destiny in that work of art and dies quickly I don't know
Did I see Red Green, that canadian comedian. make a cameo in one of your last videos? Must have been mistaken and as you are south of the border it must have been Blue. But it can't have been the sidekick from Binford Tools!! Or??
I buy most of my new files from McMaster Carr. But any industrial supplier will carry them. IF you are lucky you can sometimes find new old stock files on ebay, they are better than the ones being made today.
One of, if not the best educational blacksmithing channel out there! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I enjoy that you are making tools that you really don't see a lot of blacksmiths on TH-cam making. I have been practicing my punching and riveting. So this gives me something to try.
If I can keep coming up with good ideas it may become a regular theme for me.
A die grinder or dremel saves a bit of filing.
Once again, the BBF video library comes to my rescue! Thanks!
John you are awesome. What a great inspiration you are to many of us looking into blacksmithing. Thank you for your prodigious love of your trade skills......🇦🇺
cant wait to sort my forge and other tools bet it can get addictive i dont watch tv anymore im hooked on blacksmith videos thank you john im from the north of england in a small mining vilage
As someone who doesnt have a welder, I think this is something I am going to make soon! More so for fullering.
This is what I like to see. You made a tool by hand with minimal power tools! As you said with a little more practice it will improve. You have opened up a lot of avenues to be a better smith. Thank you sir for your time and sharing this.
You're welcome
I just forged my first S-hook in a class today. Thank you for showing me that I can actually pursue blacksmithing without a bunch of money to buy dozens of tools. I might not have even signed up for a class. Luckily some future class projects are a hole punch, a chisel, and a set of tongs so I'll have a good start.
I do love the long format videos they are an excellent way to learn And understand the processes involved.
I like them as well. But they do take much more time. I probably have close to 8 hours in filming and editing this particular video.
I agree. These longer videos have excellent content (as usual from B.B.F.) but also watching John’s methods of work when he’s trying something new is as inspiring as it is educational. Thanks for taking the extra time to produce these, John!
Excellent. I watched the video first thing this morning and then went to the shop. My day was rewiring a 220 outlet for a new welder. I'm not a very skilled welder yet, but I'm working on it. I made a guillotine tool a couple years ago, same general idea as yours, I only have a couple sets of dies so far. I really like the sets of dies you showed which give such a combination of sizes. I made a spring fuller by forging, but the way you made this is much much better than what I did. Again, thanks so much for posting these videos. You are single-handedly raising the general level of blacksmithing skill for the entire planet. Maybe the galaxy.
Thank you for the comment, that is quite the compliment.
I love your videos. I’m new to smithing and I’m still making my tools. This is one that’s on my list. I hope that when I make one that it comes out half as good as yours.
Oh, and I’ll be using a leaf spring off of a tractor trailer, so I think I’ll get my wife to buy a box of Wheaties!
I just finished rewatching. I certainly hope that you have gotten to the point where you add video producer to your resume, John. This is an excellent video no matter who put it together! What a great tutorial. I am off to build a couple of spring dies to work down the S1 that I bought to make tooling for my treadle hammer. I made a cut-off hardy by hand and it fits the tongs very well but boy is that S1 difficult to move. I'm hoping that the treadle hammer will bring some authority and precision to the process. You are one of the best instructors that I have had over the past 70 plus years. Thanks again.
Just re-watching this today. This is still an excellent project. Well done.
Thanks
Awesome video I appreciate it because I was having an issue with making one thank you so much
Yes l like the dry / cold fitting prior to the actual assembly /build. Thanks from the Iron Butterfly
Thanks John for sharing your knowledge with us.
I really like your channel . You do a great job explaining everything . I’m trying to save to get my shop built . You getting me motivated .
Yeah John, as with some of the sentiments below, I like the longer video's as they take you through the process on how to make these tools.
that guilotine thing looks like even better tool to me :D when i´ll grow up, i´ll do some o theese :D
Hi, you just became one of my favorites blacksmiths on youtube. Like DF - In The Shop, you seem to be an endless knowledge supply, and it's really great to see you share with us !
Thank you
Elegant concept, with the rivets. Nice project! I spotted a gargoyle!!😀
I figured you would see him.
I like that!!! thanks for sharing John!!!
This is awesome and great information to have. Nice to see how it could be done before there was arc welding using rivets and forge welding. That being said I did purchase a 200 amp stick welder to use to make a Press as well as tooling. So for anyone in the Chicago-land area that does not have a welder and wants to make tooling requiring one send me a PM and we may be able to meet up so you can weld your pieces together. Just my way of trying to give back to the blacksmith community. all I ask is that it is a project within reason. Nice video John always enjoy your videos!
Great offer!
You can also look up open fabrication shops in your area I have one in the Chicagoland area called pumping station one that is only $40 a month and they have a combination TIG and stick welder as well as a milling machine and a forge for anybody that might be interested in that
OUTSTANDING VIDEO!!!!!!!!
Good Stuff ! Thx for showing how not to resort to a welder for hardee hole tools! I'm retired and now in the desert (warmer) and am using a wood fired forge .... electricity is optional ! I used to live near you ( higher on the mountains) and I dont miss the snow you occasionaly show. Like watchin all your stuff ...Im a reborn blacksmith now....thx again for your teachings!
Great job! This is what the old timers would have had to do. I really appreciate your instructional style of making projects, thank you. Keep up the good work.
Great skill, thanks for the instruction
Great Video, John! This is an excellent project. I really learned a lot watching and listening to you bring the tool together. Thank you. It sure seems to me like you could add video producer to your list of skills. This was an excellent teaching video---as good as ANY on TH-cam. Bending wrenches would make a good video.
If I claimed to be a video producer I wouldn't be able to get away with silly mistakes like forgetting to turn on the mic. Bending forks are on the list.
Thank You Again John For This Awesome Video !
This U tube channel just keeps getting better and better. You answer so many questions just in the course of the video. A new video from Black bear forge is the first thing I look for every morning before I head for the shop. This video was great knowledge to file away for when I improve skills. Non the less the subject matter was riveting. One question, can I create a scarf and tig weld the edges of a piece, such as this or a pair of tongs, and then subsequently forge weld it and achieve a completely welded joint all the way through in the forge without the need for flux? Am thinking it would assist in the attaching of rein material to larger stock, if it would be a good process.
Thanks.
If there is any oxygen or impurities trapped in the weld having it sealed up will trap those and it will either bot weld or be weaker. So having a polished perfectly mating surface would be important. just tack welding with the TIG allows the impurities to be forced out of the weld joint. Flux is not an absolute requirement for welding, but it can help.
Thanks for reply, looks like I'm in for some experimenting.
Thinking and manual labor yeah you found my two weaknesses. lo
Really enjoyed this one. Thanks for the information.
Great project... thanks brother John.
The tenon tool I made was tapped and bolted, but very similar in most every respect . I just had a bucket of bolts and a new set of taps. And a good post drill. Keep up the good work.
I love your videos. Super useful. I just made myself a guillotine and I have a bunch of blank dies so I'll make this one so I can use it for the ABANA lvl 1 hook.
Well done. Again you make it look so easy. Hopefully some day I'll get that good. Keep up the good work buddy.
Great video! Enjoyed every second of it! Just want to get my shop in place and make one of my own! 😀
Awesome Job Mr John😇😁😇
Looks the goods John!
im learning every day many thanks
Nice tool John. Love your videos. They are very educational.
Thanks 👍
Thanks very much that will b great
Thanks joe
2020 Merry Christmas to You and Family. Don upstate NY
Merry Christmas
This is a perfect tool for my situation. Its hard for me to make spring fullers of arc welded pieces, a combination of my dinky welder and poor skill, they fall apart in use very quickly. So even though this is a pretty involved project, I think it is a good procedure generally for tooling up with minimal tools. Thanks for doing these type of projects even though you don't actually need to make tools like this in your shop.
Also, I'd really love it if you did a video on files and sources for things like that monster square file you are using 22:35
I video on files will be in the future. This big square file just came from McMaster Carr. I think it is a Nicholson.
I'm not an expert welder. But I do know if you are trying to weld to dissimilar metals with something like mig or stick (from personal and from the instructors I have had) the selection of rod/wire is crucial. Or if you have a TIG or oxy acetylene setup you could do a puddle weld making an alloy out of the two parent metals. I have ran into the same issues when just trying to make Hardy tools out of mild and 4140.
Love this
Very good.
Thank you John,, I'm hooked on your videos,,, VERY interesting :)
Awesome video !
Thanks
WAYYY better refinement of your original idea! John, this is an awesome tool. Say, where do you get your hot work gloves? Mine are great for up to almost 1,000 degrees but they're stupid bulky (they're foundry gloves). Yours look like they'd allow for a lot more dexterity.
These are a Carolina Kevlar hot mill glove, I buy them from Pieh Tool
Thanks! They aren't rated for as hot as my foundry gloves, but they also aren't thicker than oven mitts, lol. Ordered a set this afternoon.
I'm about to make my first tool of this general type. I'm one for keeping things as lite and small as possible to reduce storage requirements. I've watched half a dozen videos made by different people. I'm not sure if I'm missing an important point and would like your opinion on why everyone seems to make the distance between the dies and the spring so long. Wouldn't 4" - 6" be sufficient and facilitate turning the tool crosswise of the anvil? I'm sure there needs to be a balance between the size of the material being worked and the length referred to. Naturally that could be addressed by the size of the spring loop diameter. I enjoyed the video and the alternate rivet method for the dies. Thanks for your assistance!
Great video! Haven't built my forge yet but found that good, 100 year old, English 110lb anvil. Question: I picked up some US made spud wrenches for next to nothing, good for anything? Maybe a video on 'hacking' or repurposing old tools like that for forging. Thanks again!
I am sure the wrenches are good steel, but I'm not sure off the top of my head what I would use them for.
Great
Thanks John for a great video! That gives me a goal to make one. I’ll probably use mild steel since I’m still a green horn blacksmith. I’ve made a couple spring swages but I flattened out a section in 3/8 round bar for the spring before mig welding to the swage blocks. So far they work good. Would it be better to use flat bar instead??
Thanks again John. I appreciate your teachings.
I don't think it matter to much. I think flat bar is a bit simpler, but not better or worse.
Great to see BUT WHAT DO U USE THAT TOOL FOR
When you are punching a hole
Is the slug condensing before punching thru
When first starting the hole as the punch is going into the metal you are working both side till the slug starts to move
Whats happening to the slug
A large portion of the material is being displaced to the sides. This leaves a thin slug that is easy to shear out as the material cools. The slug doesn’t really compress. The displacement of material is why punched holes are stronger than drilled holes.
Great content once again as I’m only starting out I have a anvil but no forge, do u have any videos on how to build a gas forge thanks
I have never done a forge building video. I am sure i will at some point.
Great video! Why was it better to make it as a bottom butcher only instead of top and bottom?
For this spring die there is both a top and bottom butcher. I can't think of any reasin to make the butcher into a die id it is only one sided. But making a regular bottom butcher that goes in the hardy hole is a bit more straight forawd of a project than this particular die.
Would nutting and bolting make more sense so you could just swap out the dues individually? Keep the same spring? Actually come to think of it if you could have two round stocks for each die for ease of swapping maybe use a cotor key or trailer pin.
That would be an option
Rivet end 1.5 times rivet diameter?? Seem to recall it was something like that. Thanks John, nice job.
For a basic button head that is the usual rule of thumb.
You use vermiculite to anneal. Is that better than lime??
Cogratulations for your video.
I would like to ask you, what kind of steel you used to make the drift punch?
Thank you.
S7, 5160 and 4140 are all good options
@@BlackBearForge Thank you very much.
could you re visit this again some time
Great video you are an excellent video maker. Had to laugh when you knew you had messed up with the sound but had enough foresight to mention it ahead of time after the sound came back on. Quick question. Got an arc welder and getting good enough with it now. If I were to weld a mild steel spring to two pieces of leafspring for the dies. would there not be some issues with hardening the surrounding areas of the leaf spring that are just next to the weld. Because of cooling rapidly from the leaf spring. How could that be overcome.
The key to welding on anything to a high carbon component is to preheat the pieces to something like 400 - 500 then do the weld and post heat and slow cool. Eventually it will probably still crack, but it just becomes part of the repair cycle at that point.
Great advise thank yo, makes a lot of sense.
Was thinking on it a bit more. Is it possible to anneal the piece after the arc weld was done and then harden it once more? Would that make any difference too or is it a bad call.
Hey John I was going back through some of your older videos to see what I've missed. I am in the process of making Hardy hole tools , Hot cut tool and bending jig. Do you have any advice on welding shanks? Or is it better to fold the material over To make the shank? The Place where I welded my Shanks do not fit flush to my Anvil face
Grind heavy bevel first so your weld is well inside the area of the stem. Then grind as needed
@@BlackBearForge Thank you very much John.
Maybe I missed it...is the spring piece mild steel or spring steel?
Just plain mild steel
Sir, As a beginner Blacksmith, I have an odd question. I am using a piece of RR track for an Anvil, and an going to have a machine shop drill a hardy hole into the tack for me. Although, I have no experience with such things, I would appreciate your feedback on this though. I was doing some research on the size of the hole I should have them cut into the anvil. and I ran into 2 of the popular sizes, and got confused. So as I enjoy learning and watching your videos, Which would be the correct, err... "better" ( for lack of a better descriptor ), sized hole? 1" or 3/4" for a RR track anvil that is approx. 4" wide? Thank You in advance for you feedback!!!
It would certianly be easier to make tools with a 3/4" shank. But you are more likely to be able to buy new or used tools for 1"
@@BlackBearForge Thank you for your swift reply, it is much appreciated!
Now I know why they say "strike while the iron is hot"
How do you know what size and dimensions to make the spring? I want to make some spring tools, but I don’t know what length material to use or what the radius of the spring should be.
The exact dimensions aren’t real critical. Start with a few feet of the material you have on hand and see how it works, then adapt from there
Black Bear Forge- thank you!
“Bob Punch”...because the rivets holding a bob-sleigh runner iron have to be counter-sunk?
Its as good a guess as any.
I imagine this sold a long time ago? I think it might fit my little anvil.
You work a lot with this one cross peen hammer. What's the wieght of it?
By the way- riveted tools looks just beautiful. This one tool is something that you could have done easier (MIG for example, but making it without welding is very interesting project) but I don't know if it could have been done prettier
about 3 pounds
Where are you getting your steel a 12ft 1in round of 4140 where I'm at is easily north of 200.00
I'm not sure where in this video I talked about 12' rounds of 4140. I typically buy it in 3' pieces from McMaster Carr. Yes it is expensive, but worth it compared to having to remake tools that are just mild steel. If I talked about 12' sections, it was probably salvaged material, most likely sucker rod from a well.
Black Bear Forge I was just stating what that amount of steel costs me where I'm at.
I was searching for "spring die" and I got lots of strange hits, one of them Vivaldi's 4 Seasons piece... Maybe spring season has a shitty destiny in that work of art and dies quickly I don't know
Search engines have strange results sometimes.
Love your videos but why are your fingers always injured??
They aren't
Did I see Red Green, that canadian comedian. make a cameo in one of your last videos?
Must have been mistaken and as you are south of the border it must have been Blue. But it can't have been the sidekick from Binford Tools!! Or??
I would love to have Red Green come by for a visit. I'm not sure how long a spring die held together with duct tape would last though.
So what do you use to control your camera with your phone?
Its a Sony video camera with wifi. I then use Sonys app on the phone. It was the main reason I chose this camera.
Could you tell me where you purchased your square file..
I buy most of my new files from McMaster Carr. But any industrial supplier will carry them. IF you are lucky you can sometimes find new old stock files on ebay, they are better than the ones being made today.
"Bob punch" because it looks like a plumb bob?
Chandler Dickinson is in trouble with his shop lets find a way to help