My 2014 Escape SE AWD and 120,000 miles on it. Smoke was coming out of some where around the engine as well as the exhausts. I did the oil change and added the BG EPR, MOA and I even threw 5W 30 in it just like you did. I drove it up and down the street two times and the smoke stopped, and now I have my Suv to drive to work again. Thank you very much and I'm grateful you posted this You Tube video. I going to assume there is allot of sludge oil build up in there so how many times in a row should I do this until it's mostly all cleaned out? What is a PCV system and is it possible it got ruined because of the oil to high from the sludge build up. Thank you times a million!!!
Common sense says follow the manufacturers recommendations on oil. My Volvo has 370K Km and I still use 0W30 fully synthetic as per the manufacturers data.
If you come here and you just blatantly start talking trash about Ford and you start spamming my comment section with nothing but trash talk I will remove you that is your first warning As my channel grows and I push the limits of my employment where I work people have asked to be a part of my life financially because they know I take a chance they know that at some point Ford could drop the hammer on me and say get out so they often ask to help me buy things for the channel and support the channel and things of this nature although it's not necessary people have asked me to create a patreon so they can donate to the money I spent on the channel and I do appreciate the help so here is the link to my patreon if anybody's interested www.patreon.com/Fordbossme
Is there a way to contact you directly ? I have strange 1.5 ecoboost problem and can’t seem to find anyone to help me without spending fortune at Fords dealer.
@@bellytripper-nh8ox come on now let's not go there Every time I post a video about afford if somebody's going to come here talkingshit about Ford I ain't got time for all that Other people come here to learn and be constructed or they come here to talk s*** and s*** all over the channel you choose what you want to do and then there's going to be an after-effect to one of those
@@TheTurpin1234 that doesn't mean that I'm okay with you coming here and just shiting all over the channel because you don't like something I'm asking for a little respect I put out the time to show people how to fix their vehicles and I show them what goes on at a professional level and I'm giving you my time as a Creator to show you how to fix things and if you're going to take my time and those things could be beneficial to you then leave something positive
@@bellytripper-nh8ox if all you do is just talk s*** then maybe this isn't the place for you if you're really that worried about it because I don't beg people to be here and I do like positive conversation with people more than just talking crap to people and I'm trying to be as professional as I can but when idiots come here and just blatantly talk crap just because they can I don't want that I don't need them here
We use BG products in our shop and the EPR oil flush kit works well. We see a lot of Hyundai /Kia where the oil looks beat at 3,000 miles/5,000 kilometres. The direct injection engines need a lot more care than people realize
Ford had a hissy fit when my Halfords used a Oil Flush but in the wife's Ecosport owners manual it mentions Oil FLUSHING but as long as its Ford approved!
Yeah, people don't think about the fact that 120+hp per liter was super car territory not too long ago, came with extreme maintenance requirements, and nobody expected the engine to make it to 25k miles without major repairs, much less 100k+. To be fair though, manufacturers advertising 7500+ mile service intervals doesn't help... Running premium gasoline helps too. The use of lower grade fuel is only made possible by the engine management system monitoring for knock and retarding the timing. It is better for the engine to not have any knock events in the first place. Using higher octane fuel makes the knock events not happen, or happen way less frequently.
Thank You!!!! You saved me thousands of dollars. I will never trust any Ford dealer again as long as I live. They told me I needed to replace the engine on my 2014 escape. I followed your steps and the smoke cleared up.
Not every technician has the same abilities Theoretically a motor would have been the safest option Remember you may have to as a preventative flush it one or 2 more times
Good work man! I'm a bit biased as I absolutely abhor GDI, at lest the way the OEM's have implemented it. The thing that bothers me the most about GDI is the OEM's had to have seen and known about the carbon buildup during the testing phases. That says to me that they figured they could get through the warranty period without having to do anything, and then the problem would be the customers. One thing i do when I check and\or change the engine oil is to lubricate the oil dipstick o-ring with a little oil. I've found that it helps it to not stick as much when you're trying to pull it out.
If you have to drive for work it helps, I put 90k on a company car in less than 2 years. A brutal schedule for a personal car that I wouldn't wish on anyone.
I've been watching several of your videos regarding BG EPR and MOA. You have made a believer out of me. My 2008 Honda Odyssey has a clogged under the floor Cat which seems to have come from oil burning out the substrate in the front cat. I'm going to change my cats and then perform a motor flush with this product. All the best sir.
I actually just picked up some MOA from my dealers parts department today after I got my daily re-inspected. 16 bucks, glad to know I’m not wasting my money, figured it’s like buying your car a couple beers for still chooching up every morning to pull your butt into work. Also, damn right those cans are hard to open.
Good information. You are right, I noticed that using 4.3 Q of oil in my 1.5 Ecoboost engine as ford specified actually make the oil level little bit above the full mark. I only put 4 Q. Of oil and the level looks right. 👍
I had a 2014 escape with the 2.0 engine and had lots of engine issues around 100k miles. Valvoline has a induction service that took care of most of the issues. I ended up keeping it until around 180k miles
Perfect timing on this video. Just a couple weeks ago we had a bg rep come into our shop to explain how the new fuel induction kits work and after that discussion I asked him about the epr kits. He said that it works very well to remove varnish and it can help unstick piston rings etc but there were two really important things he made sure that I knew about epr. For one the epr kit is not designed for engines that have sludge buildup there's only so much a can of solvent can do. Second he said that you absolutely have to use moa after the treatment, he didn't elaborate why but he made it very clear you must use moa afterwards. BG will only sell the epr kit with moa, I'm sure you can buy them separately online but by only using epr you are going directly against their recommendations. I have a Honda that uses some oil I'm going to use the epr kit next weekend and see for myself if it can actually help reduce oil consumption
The issue is the Moa is designed to coat the metal so the epr doesn't continue to eat away at anything it's a barrier that needs to be run through the first time and then after that you're fine
I have a high mileage Honda also, I use EPR and MOA. it does reduce consumption. two treatments in close mileage can really help. one of our older techs has gone as far as removing the plugs and dropping some epr (not much) onto the piston, let's it sit overnight or over a weekend and then cranks it with no plugs. plugs back in, change oil, moa. smokes like crazy for a minute or two. he swears by it. easier than piston ring replacement.
@@josephphillips865 Yes. It did reduce consumption however in my case it didn't completely stop due to the condition the engine is in. It's been driven with the oil light on a couple times. It's worth a shot. I've also seen on forums where people will pour mmo on top of the cylinder and then pressurize it to unstick the rings, seems to work pretty good but you'll have to repeat the process several times
@@firstlast--- I've heard MMO works more slowly as a cleaner so repeating makes sense. You could also do the EPR again. Worst case the fix is valve seals and piston rings so a full rebuild and not cheap.
Thanks. Great video. I think what you've shown would apply to any GDI engine these days. And the manufacturer specs of oil changes every 10K or more miles is complete BS. It's good to see a mechanic offering a customer a solution like this which saved them many thousands of dollars instead of an engine tear down, new engine, turbo etc. Good job.
I remember reading about the mechanics of 100 years ago when it was a yearly practice to de-carbon valves and heads. Looks like we're back to the beginning with this new technology 🤣🤣🤣 Everything old is new again. Also thanks for showing how these new engines really push the oil to the max.
Braxo. Back in the day pour it down the carb on 55 chevy to increase compression as the rings did not seat well. This was an old dealer trick back in the day
My fiat x19 says in the owners manual to be doing a valve adjustment every 20-40k or something really often like that. Same with timing belt being a 50k interval and other important parts like water pump or flushing radiator. People used to actually care about workin on these cars.
I was a Motor Techy 1968 to 1984 and i did overhauls on engines. I did the whole lot, Rebores Overhauled cylinder heads and i am shocked at these Ford engines .Even mine has just gone BUST I did not know about these engines before now..arrrrg
Looks saved to me, was sure it was coolant intrusion. Learned something as always. Curious if this is just Ford's small displacement turbo powerplants, or something that other makes will be running into in the near future.Gen2 MINI's call for 10kMiles between changes (1.6 Turbo) and this makes me wonder.
Most coolant intrusion problems are before the warranty period expired. A few happen just after the warranty period expired and Ford typically takes care of them anyway. There is a class action lawsuit, none are claiming anything close to 100,000 miles, and it's mostly going to get some lawyers paid. I suspect customers can sign up for their $10 check payment by mail. I've seen people get solicitation to join the class action settlement after Ford paid for the engine repair, they declined the lawsuit since the engine was repaired. I don't know how somebody can accept a free repair, and sue for an engine failure, after accepting the free repair at no charge to them. I'm more curious about the GT350 class action lawsuit.
The Mini with the 1.6 turbo is a PSA 1.6 THP which suffers extremely from carbon buildup but the timing chain issues are an ever larger issue with those engines. In regards to the carbon buildup, more and more manufacturers are going the combines route of both direct and port injection which can increase efficiency and at the same time keeps the valves cleaner. The downside is even more complexity because you now have 8 injectors on a 4 cylinder engine...
Rich, count me in as a BG believer. I have a 99 E150 with the 4.2 V6, 240k on the clock and clogged EGR ports when I purchased it. First oil change I ran EPR before dropping the old stuff. You wouldn’t believe the softened chunks of sludge that ended up at the bottom of my drain pan. Engine even quieted down a little after fresh Pennzoil Plat 5W30 and a shot of MMO. Who knows what the old stuff in there was! Only running Motorcraft filters on this old girl as long as she’s mine. I’m going to do another EPR treatment before the next oil change. Thank you for your content and God bless, Brother!
Update: woke up, on with overalls and to the Ford i went... no coolant in the reservoir *enter head scratch* tied hair back, doorag in place fill and let's see ok. 🙉 well at start, immediately the coolant starts flowing through top tube in fast manner, literally cycling through bottom hose- radiator- and - through little hoses in top odd reservoir to do it again. *note not at temp just started. I lean over and look at back and see the smoke.....uh! Shut it off, heard the system still flowing for about 4 minutes, haven't heard that before now. So... thoughts?
This is incredible to me, yes I believe you. I just am amazed at how the use of these chemicals works and how much mechanics poo-poo’d this a few years ago. But your video is the proof. If all works out you’ve saved the customer $thousands$. Good job and the videos coming!
Appreciate the great info here man. I just found you and gave you a follow. I used to change my oil at 7,500 and in the past my vehicles have done really well as I changed my own oil. Now you have me thinking to go with 5k though. Much cheaper alternative to replacing an engine. It's so hard nowadays to know the truth about cars with everyone online and opinions. Im going to give you a try with all the good stuff I've seen though. Thanks for your experience.
I’m a retired technician who started working on cars professionally in the late 70’s and did a fair amount of “shade tree” stuff before I could even drive. I’m still amazed that people don’t get the “ideal conditions” crap about changing oil!! Maybe you should hammer away about this in a future video. Hardly any car EVER falls in this category. I bought my wife a 17 Escape new in late 16 and it’s just about to turn 100k… I seldom let it get more than a few hundred miles over 3000 when I change it. Always use good synthetic oil and filter. The Escape is a 2.0 and other than oil, filters,one set of front brakes and a set of tires really never had any problems. I usually do at least 2 and sometimes close to 3 services before the stupid oil change warning comes on, usually between 9-10,000 miles. I can’t believe these people going that many miles and wonder why it needs engine work!! I guess a lot of people like plunking down 35-40 grand every 3-4 years for a new one, but I’m not one of them. Listen up people take it from professional and retired professional technicians…you want to hang on to your vehicle more than a few years, change the fluids!!! Not just oil either transmission, differential oil, transfer cases and especially anti-freeze!! Anti freeze doesn’t get (usually) all nasty like in the 1960-1990 era but it gets really acidic and starts eating up gaskets and starts leaking coolant and if you aren’t paying attention, next thing you know you are doing head gaskets or engine replacement!! Food for thought people. Great videos, I enjoy watching them. 👍🏻
Regards from Dominican Republic. Thanks for the explanation. I have a 2013 Ford Escape with the same problem. I asked the mechanic if he had passed the oil and he lied to me. Thank you very much.
BG makes great products. I'm especially partial to there induction cleaner that gets induced into intake while running. It can make any car smoke like that after sitting after treatment 🤣 I know you know the power of seafoam, BG, or mercury power tune de carbonizers. Even the GDI intake cleaner from CRC is decent. Keep em coming
I have a 2015 blue 1.6L escape and change the oil every 3000-5000 kilometres and follow the recommended maintenance in the owners manual and advice from the mechanic. It has 152,000km and I bought it 2 years ago at 138,500km and have had lots of maintenance done. They are a great suv for the city
Funny, my one-liter fox engine also takes exactly four quarts of oil -- not the 1.2 gallon specified in the manual and compartment tag. Yes, that factors in filter fill-up.
i had a 2013 flex ecoboost. bought it at 42k. got rid of it at 150k. oil change every 5k with motorcraft 5w30 full synthetic. had the timing chains done around 125k before my premiumcare expired. they weren'y needed, but my tech friend was saving me the expense down the road. he called me and said that my engine was one of the cleanest he had ever see. i always do 5k with full synthetic on everything i own. yeah, i may pay twice as much as thouse who use regular oil every 10k miles, but i trust my engine to last longer than theirs!
when in doubt get the BG out i always say. good methodical and fast save dude that was scary. i don't know how it would fair in modern engines but ive had good results with RISLONE back in the day, even seen it up compression. id bump the oil too with high mileage/looser clearances, those are only "factory recommendations" from the engineers, climate, duty application and general overall condition dictate what viscosity oil should be in the crankcase.
All direct injection vehicles should have been equipped with air-oil separators from the factory, especially when intake valve fouling was a known problem.
Modern oils are made to clean the valves on di engines the fine mist of oil that passes through the pcv system is the only thing that touches the valves a lot of the carbon that builds up on the valves is the back splash of fuel when the engine is turned off.
Actually whoever thought direct injection was a good idea was an idiot. To save some mpg, emissions and gain minor hp it wasn't worth it for what it does to an engine over time. Cleaning the valves shouldn't be a maintenance item.
@@repnatl I guess your right in one sense a lot of new technology that solves one problem often leads to another but look at a lot of new fords that have both port and direct injection toyota is doing the same thing
@@stevennunez6013 I believe on some of the new Toyota engines they have a computer controlled injection. Where the majority of the time is direct injection but also port injection. I completely agree, direct injection may save fuel but will end up consuming more materials in the long run. EPA regulations are pushing consumers towards electric cars.
@@stevennunez6013 lol @ thinking an oil can clean valves. Oil is sticky, and not a solvent like fuel. It sticks to everything, traps dirt to it and causes this in the first place. If cars vented to atmosphere, valves would be spotless
Great video. New subscriber here. I have a 2015 escape with 85,000 miles. But I bought it specifically with the 2.5L. Zero problems and I run it pretty hard. Thanks for being a stand up guy and not throwing parts at it.
I have a 2020 2.0 Ecoboost Esacpe AWD Tinaium, and a 2020 Explorer ST and a 2021 Explorer ST, UPR catch cans on all 3 and what we drain out is NASTY and TOXIC smelling.
BG does make good shit. Have you ever tried anything different for induction cleaning on these like water, or water methanol? I had to decarbon some old lady cars years ago, just hold it about 3k rpms and slowly pour a small stream of water in the carb. It worked back in the day. I'm sure you've noticed how nice and clean the combustion chamber is on a blown head gasket car
I've owned 2 EcoBoost trucks and I've always changed my oil using a full synthetic and at 3k miles just based off what I saw at the dealership. On another note, I've never tried it on a vehicle but I've fixed a few small engines on power lawn equipment with stuck rings by pouring MMO down the spark plug hole and allowing it to soak for a couple days. I've heard of WD 40 working the same to break loose the gunk around the rings when poured into the cylinder.
Thank you so much for your help !! I just bought a 2013 escape se with 79,000 miles and notice smoking few days right after 😢 and i was stressing what it could be
Careful - look up.... escape coolant intrusion and 1.5l ecoboost coolant intrusion and 2.0l ecoboost coolant intrusion I don't know what engine is in yours but look that up
Rich - great video, THANK YOU!! 👏👏 Questions - maybe I have poor streaming this week, due to 5G replacing 4G in my neighborhood - You changed the oil & filter first ... Exactly what is the name of the flush you added to the fresh oil? Did you run it for a time (2 hours?) to double-check for smoke (sure looked like coolant when it came in!) - - and then change the oil & filter AGAIN, OR did you just return the car to the customer? Regular oil OR real synthetic? Thank you again Sir!! @Ford Boss Me PS for low cranking compression, I've used Engine Restore with a fresh oil change & filter, going back 30+ years. Recheck compression 1 - 2 - 3 weeks later, psi has gone up AND more power and throttle response. If you want more info and a history of the cars I used it in (including 71 Opel Manta coupe for autocross), let me know, and if you want, I'll send it to you off-this-thread. Thanks again!! 👊👊💪💪
The oil that was in the vehicle was only 600 miles on it and I added a product called BG EPR Cleaner and I ran it for 15 minutes at about 1500 RPM and then drain the oil I put about 3.75 quarts of 5w 30 and then I add a small can of the same company that makes the product above of BG MOA.... it's a supplement additive to the oil
love the BG products brought them to my shop saved quite a few vehicles with it. love your attitude about mfgr. recommend service intervals, and oil weight. keep doing what you do
The Ford dealer told me to change the oil in both of my vehicles every 3,000 to 3,500 miles. They said you never change the oil enough especially the eco boost engines
Got the old 4L SOHC with 176K. Previous owners used synthetic blend, I use the full synthetic. Maintenance is the thing with these oldies. Hope you can get success with the Ecoboost, there are surely LOTS of them around now!
Great information. I agree 100% with doing maintenance earlier on ecoboost. I was a Ford tech for 16 years. I always told people to not go by the oil minder in their car. It likes to them.
When you put 30W in instead of the recommended 20W, you mentioned the vehicle had 200K+ miles on it. Do you recommend upping the weight on all vehicles that are up there in mileage? Or was this just a special scenario considering the obvious wear and tear on the internals and sludge?
@@FordBossMe what about if your car engine is burning oil? I do own a 2015 KIA Rio EX Im using 5w30 as told by my mechanic. Using BG products trying to help with Carbon Deposits. Great channelnic. Using BG products trying to help with Carbon Deposits. Great channel
Previous corvette I had had a very hard life. I put in 5w40 indtead of 5w30 and flushed it with engine flush a few times, ran much smoother and had better oil pressure after
yeah and this advice goes for a lot of the new small displacement, direct injection, turbocharged engines out there. yes, they have impressive numbers but you have to use synthetic oil and have to make sure you change the oil often. they are not like the large displacement V8s in older domestics. personally, I would change the oil at half or 2/3 of the mileage that the manufacturer recommends for most new vehicles. for example, the interval is 6k miles on my wrx. i change it every 3k. my father just got a new ram 2500 with the diesel engine. cummins says 15k mile interval, he plans to do 10k.
Ok I probably shouldn't say anything but my 2010 f150 I bought new with the 5.4 3 valve now has 235,000 . I only did engine oil changes every 5,000 miles transmission fluid change every 60,000 miles and rear-end fluid every 60,000 coolant, power Steering fluid brake fluid every so often. regular oil changes are definitely important. You got a new sub.👍
Wouldn’t a catch can work on the eco boost engines since they are directly injected. I’m not no expert but even I understand that gas is an good solvent.
A catch can will help some but you have to understand this vehicle has 189,000 miles on it we're trying to save it a catch can would be too late at this point so if we can save it and then give the recommendation absolutely a jlt catch can would be great but it's not going to stop everything
@@FordBossMe Thankfully my local Hyundai dealer emptied my catch can for me with my oil change haha. It doesn't stop all buildup, but slows it down considerably. I noticed in winter it also catches a ton of condensation.
Great video!! I have a 2011 3.5ecoboost f150 had it since new now has 143’000 miles i change my oil every 4-4500 miles with full synthetic and it runs amazing still as it did new
Sometimes it takes a few times to do it so you're going to have to like do it and then run fresh oil in for a month or two do it again and then flush it again a month or two later
@Ford Boss Me would you recommend using 2- 11oz cans ? Did it this weekend and still smokin. But oil & filter was clean ( oil change 1k miles ago looked 100% till flushed, whaT came out looked 100% black so I know it's def cleaning build up. For round 2 what's your opinion on how concentrated I can take it without hurting seals & such ?
In my shop we used a VS7 from Mighty and it was excellent at a carbon removal just feed it through the brake booster line and hold it at 2000rpms.. it cured a number of engines ❤
Exactly. I am one of the only guys at my dealership who actually checks the oil level and noticed that 4.3 was to much. I remember Ford in the beginning with the 2013 models say 5.5-6qts for the 1.6 but then had a literal oil change recall where we changed the oil, replaced that crappy dip stick and put a yellow sticker with the 4.3qt spec on it. Noticed it was still high and found 4qts to be proper.
My 2014 Ford Escape with 162K miles was very well maintained but I am having the same problem, it’s smoking just as the car in your video. The Car Shield Extended warranty refuse to cover / pay for the repair because they see the sludge build up. The cost to replace the engine is over $6K There is also a Coolant leek as shown in another of your videos. I am glad n happy to see how the flush you did worked. Since CS won’t cover I will have to try the product you used to fixed that car. Thanks for reading.
Hyundai and Kia with GDI engines are notorious for this. 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 GDI sport, 110,000 miles. I change the oil every 4k. Never had an issue, Last oil change noticed it was two qts low. Took it to the mechanic who wouldn't even touch it. Gave the gold old standby "take it to the dealership." I changed spark plugs and PCV and began monitoring oil consumption. Approx 1 qt low at 1000 miles. Ran CRC Intake valve cleaner through the vacuum line and BG EPR and MOA per instructions and BG 44K in the gas tank. 2500 Miles in and I've added about a qt of oil. Substantial decrease in oil consumption. I just ordered the BG Dynamic engine cleaner set and I'm gonna run it through next oil change. Fingers crossed.
My 2015 Altima is smoking exactly like that (thick white smoke) and only after a highway drive. But it only has 70k miles and I change the oil regularly. A mechanic is doing a complete engine flush with the BG kit. He checked the head gasket “it’s clean no leaks” so when I get the car back will monitor to see if no more smoke.
I changed the pcv valve and the oil separator on my 1.6 ecoboost and for like 2 weeks everything was fine . I noticed 2 days ago that it started smoking again , not so bad like before but still , i can see it and smell it ...
I ran this in the wife’s 2010 RX 350 180k miles. Also add a can of MOA at the oil change. The car is like new. I also change the oil every 3000-3500 miles. The engine noise is now gone. Actually changing the oil in the morning again. BG works
I don't own a ford but glad you put this out to show even though it is a engine with a turbo, the epr and moa actually work on both applications, I'm just missing the moa for my vehicle now.
2/19/2022: Thank you! I have a very mild case of blue smoke on startup. For me it is intermittent and started shortly after the warranty expired. It is most likely to do it when it gets down to freezing and parked overnight. Sometimes it doesn't do it for weeks and then it starts up again. I'm gonna try the flush and with edit this post with my results.
So I bought a 2017 Escape 1.5L with 187m mikes on it. Seller replaced the high pressure fuel pump and cam follower a month ago. It quickly lost high pressure fuel on fuel rail. I pulled the HP pump and found the cam follower had a hole in it. So what’s to prevent my new cam follower from repeating again? I’m in the process of cleaning out the oil pan and sump screen. I’ll flush with BG EPR products later this week when I get them via ups. Thanks!
I had the exact same issue pop up recently on my 2015 1.6 that's coming up on 100k miles. I've been worried about a blown head gasket but after seeing this I will definitely be trying this first.
My parents have a 2013 Ford escape with the 1.6L. They're nearing 100k miles, no smoke on start up yet but still something they should keep in mind. Gonna share this video with them, Thanks.
I used epr in my 2011 mercury grand marquis. A very little light blue smoke came out . Seemed like it worked nicely. And i put the moa in with my fresh oil , see how it goes
I just commented on another one of your videos about my ST 2.0 turbo Eco Boost engine. I started to get nervous about my new used ST with 41,0000 miles. I have a new comfort about this engine. One it is a manual transmission no torque converter. Two I am not a professional mechanic, but I have been working on my own cars for forty years. I know the value of oil changes with good quality oil. I did all the services on my 2013 ST from when I bought it at 36,000 miles until I sold it two weeks ago 171,000 miles. Oil changes every 5,000 miles with Synthetic oil and high-quality filters. This was a pain because I drive 2,000 a month, so oil changes every two and a half months. Belts and new plugs every 50,000 miles. I guess if you take extra good care of these engines, they can last a long time. Long time Ford owner, two 66, two 67, one 71, 97 Cobra, 07 GT, 12 GT mustangs. 64 Galaxie, 71 Torino and two Focus STs.
Instructions on EPR container says run engine for at least 10 minutes at 1,200 RPM. If in ADDITION to running engine for 10 minutes, will damage be done to engine if the car is driven around for another 50 to 100 miles BEFORE DRAINING out the EPR. Would these extra 50 to 100 miles give more cleaning to the engine or instead would damage the engine?
Excellent diagnosis. As an ecoboost enthusiast, i would have probably had a much more devastating theory, like a cracked head or bad turbo seal if i saw smoke like that.
Oil changes every 3000 + desert heat and no humidity = my old Hyundai Elantra still runs like new with 389,000 miles. Lots of timing belts and trans oil changes, a few radiators. Your oil selections are right on the money.
My 2014 Escape SE AWD and 120,000 miles on it. Smoke was coming out of some where around the engine as well as the exhausts. I did the oil change and added the BG EPR, MOA and I even threw 5W 30 in it just like you did. I drove it up and down the street two times and the smoke stopped, and now I have my Suv to drive to work again. Thank you very much and I'm grateful you posted this You Tube video. I going to assume there is allot of sludge oil build up in there so how many times in a row should I do this until it's mostly all cleaned out? What is a PCV system and is it possible it got ruined because of the oil to high from the sludge build up. Thank you times a million!!!
The PCV system recirculate any type of blow by material it gets past the Pistons
There's a company called jlt and they make catch cans for the PCV systems that eliminates Blow by contamination to an extent
I'd flush it 1x again next oil change and the one after
@@FordBossMeI'm having white smoke coming from exhaust.
I have blue smoke and oil light turnd on 😢 2013 escape 1.6 ecoboost i will try to flush with those 2 cans and see .@@luiscede8423
A wise man is teachable because he knows he's not always right. Be teachable, not many people are.
Well put. I don't disagree with anything he says but I detest arrogance.
Well stated. Know-it-alls are the most dangerous--no matter what they are doing. Especially those in management.
Amen. Arrogance = hard pass
He was just preempting the guaranteed arrogance coming from the comment section. Should be common sense
Common sense says follow the manufacturers recommendations on oil. My Volvo has 370K Km and I still use 0W30 fully synthetic as per the manufacturers data.
I have found a new STRAIGHT IN YOUR FACE, TELL IT LIKE IT IS, CAR CHANNEL, DAMN RIGHT. THANK YOU, SIR.
This is what a real mechanic is. These are the people that deserve our dollars.
💯
If you come here and you just blatantly start talking trash about Ford and you start spamming my comment section with nothing but trash talk I will remove you that is your first warning
As my channel grows and I push the limits of my employment where I work people have asked to be a part of my life financially because they know I take a chance they know that at some point Ford could drop the hammer on me and say get out so they often ask to help me buy things for the channel and support the channel and things of this nature
although it's not necessary people have asked me to create a patreon so they can donate to the money I spent on the channel and I do appreciate the help so here is the link to my patreon if anybody's interested
www.patreon.com/Fordbossme
Is there a way to contact you directly ? I have strange 1.5 ecoboost problem and can’t seem to find anyone to help me without spending fortune at Fords dealer.
Or maybe somebody at Ford will see how horrible they are and decide to make quality products again.
@@bellytripper-nh8ox come on now let's not go there
Every time I post a video about afford if somebody's going to come here talkingshit about Ford I ain't got time for all that
Other people come here to learn and be constructed or they come here to talk s*** and s*** all over the channel you choose what you want to do and then there's going to be an after-effect to one of those
@@TheTurpin1234 that doesn't mean that I'm okay with you coming here and just shiting all over the channel because you don't like something
I'm asking for a little respect I put out the time to show people how to fix their vehicles and I show them what goes on at a professional level and I'm giving you my time as a Creator to show you how to fix things and if you're going to take my time and those things could be beneficial to you then leave something positive
@@bellytripper-nh8ox if all you do is just talk s*** then maybe this isn't the place for you if you're really that worried about it because I don't beg people to be here and I do like positive conversation with people more than just talking crap to people and I'm trying to be as professional as I can but when idiots come here and just blatantly talk crap just because they can I don't want that I don't need them here
We use BG products in our shop and the EPR oil flush kit works well. We see a lot of Hyundai /Kia where the oil looks beat at 3,000 miles/5,000 kilometres. The direct injection engines need a lot more care than people realize
Ford had a hissy fit when my Halfords used a Oil Flush but in the wife's Ecosport owners manual it mentions Oil FLUSHING but as long as its Ford approved!
This doesn't do anything for the direct injection system, it's only for the oil.
People needs to start treating the ecoboost like the high stresses turbo motors they are. Every turbo car needs good oil frequently.
Yeah, people don't think about the fact that 120+hp per liter was super car territory not too long ago, came with extreme maintenance requirements, and nobody expected the engine to make it to 25k miles without major repairs, much less 100k+.
To be fair though, manufacturers advertising 7500+ mile service intervals doesn't help...
Running premium gasoline helps too. The use of lower grade fuel is only made possible by the engine management system monitoring for knock and retarding the timing. It is better for the engine to not have any knock events in the first place.
Using higher octane fuel makes the knock events not happen, or happen way less frequently.
Amzoil!
Exactly. I've been doing 3-5 k oil changes my whole life and never popped a motor. I drive em pretty hard too.
@@markbeiser Shell gasoline and Shell motor oil is the only product to use on gas & diesel engines
@@BuckingHorse-Bull So says you...a Shell employee...LOL
Thank You!!!! You saved me thousands of dollars. I will never trust any Ford dealer again as long as I live. They told me I needed to replace the engine on my 2014 escape. I followed your steps and the smoke cleared up.
Not every technician has the same abilities
Theoretically a motor would have been the safest option
Remember you may have to as a preventative flush it one or 2 more times
I'm glad you found relief in this possible solution
Ford dealerships hire anyone to be a mechanic
My 2016 Jeep Wrangler just rolled over 150k :)
Good show, I’m subbed!
Great Information..... I learned today that regular, frequent maintenance is NEVER
a waste of time nor money!
Thanks Brother! I start a new job Monday at a local Ford dealership and this is golden information!
You'll save motors with it!
Good work man! I'm a bit biased as I absolutely abhor GDI, at lest the way the OEM's have implemented it. The thing that bothers me the most about GDI is the OEM's had to have seen and known about the carbon buildup during the testing phases. That says to me that they figured they could get through the warranty period without having to do anything, and then the problem would be the customers. One thing i do when I check and\or change the engine oil is to lubricate the oil dipstick o-ring with a little oil. I've found that it helps it to not stick as much when you're trying to pull it out.
WOW, 189,000 miles already, that's incredible for a car that's 5 years old... especially an escape. At least it is to me!
If you have to drive for work it helps, I put 90k on a company car in less than 2 years. A brutal schedule for a personal car that I wouldn't wish on anyone.
I've got just over 201k on my 2017 Mazda 6. Zero problems.
@@socialjusticewarrior9601 I used to have a Mazda6. Great cars. I would get a newer one but they don't offer manual transmission any more.
@@LA_Commander Yep, I spec'ed mine out with a manual. It's the GT trim, which the auto comes standard in but was able to get the 6 speed.
@@socialjusticewarrior9601 Wow! I didn't know you could do that. Nice job!
I've been watching several of your videos regarding BG EPR and MOA. You have made a believer out of me. My 2008 Honda Odyssey has a clogged under the floor Cat which seems to have come from oil burning out the substrate in the front cat. I'm going to change my cats and then perform a motor flush with this product. All the best sir.
good job! I'm a believer in frequent oil changes and full synthetic. BG makes good products
Looks like it's in pretty nice shape, especially cosmetically considering the mileage.
That’s some awesome troubleshooting. And that sets you above the normal tech. In the end you saved that customers ass. I respect that.
so happy to see this video. gives me hope that top maintenance can make the EcoBoost last almost 200k miles (over 300k km)!
I actually just picked up some MOA from my dealers parts department today after I got my daily re-inspected. 16 bucks, glad to know I’m not wasting my money, figured it’s like buying your car a couple beers for still chooching up every morning to pull your butt into work. Also, damn right those cans are hard to open.
did you notice a plastic coin in the bottom of the can? the BG guy buys them back at $.50 each. Some products $1. and it's good stuff.
You are doin business the right way. This is a true professional!
Good information. You are right, I noticed that using 4.3 Q of oil in my 1.5 Ecoboost engine as ford specified actually make the oil level little bit above the full mark. I only put 4 Q. Of oil and the level looks right. 👍
Thanks! I have a 2015 Escape with a 2.0 and my wife has a 2015 Fusion with a 1.5. This information is very encouraging!
I had a 2014 escape with the 2.0 engine and had lots of engine issues around 100k miles. Valvoline has a induction service that took care of most of the issues. I ended up keeping it until around 180k miles
I got a 2015 focus with the 2.0, 143k miles, zero problems. I hope it says like that, it’s the NA 2.0 as well.
Perfect timing on this video. Just a couple weeks ago we had a bg rep come into our shop to explain how the new fuel induction kits work and after that discussion I asked him about the epr kits. He said that it works very well to remove varnish and it can help unstick piston rings etc but there were two really important things he made sure that I knew about epr. For one the epr kit is not designed for engines that have sludge buildup there's only so much a can of solvent can do. Second he said that you absolutely have to use moa after the treatment, he didn't elaborate why but he made it very clear you must use moa afterwards. BG will only sell the epr kit with moa, I'm sure you can buy them separately online but by only using epr you are going directly against their recommendations. I have a Honda that uses some oil I'm going to use the epr kit next weekend and see for myself if it can actually help reduce oil consumption
The issue is the Moa is designed to coat the metal so the epr doesn't continue to eat away at anything it's a barrier that needs to be run through the first time and then after that you're fine
I have a high mileage Honda also, I use EPR and MOA. it does reduce consumption. two treatments in close mileage can really help. one of our older techs has gone as far as removing the plugs and dropping some epr (not much) onto the piston, let's it sit overnight or over a weekend and then cranks it with no plugs. plugs back in, change oil, moa. smokes like crazy for a minute or two. he swears by it. easier than piston ring replacement.
Any luck with the BG EPR in the Honda?
@@josephphillips865 Yes. It did reduce consumption however in my case it didn't completely stop due to the condition the engine is in. It's been driven with the oil light on a couple times. It's worth a shot. I've also seen on forums where people will pour mmo on top of the cylinder and then pressurize it to unstick the rings, seems to work pretty good but you'll have to repeat the process several times
@@firstlast--- I've heard MMO works more slowly as a cleaner so repeating makes sense. You could also do the EPR again. Worst case the fix is valve seals and piston rings so a full rebuild and not cheap.
I'm with you on the engine oil weight recommendation, great video.
Came across this channel looking at the BG product testing/results. Appreciate the honest review. Thank you.
Thanks. Great video. I think what you've shown would apply to any GDI engine these days. And the manufacturer specs of oil changes every 10K or more miles is complete BS.
It's good to see a mechanic offering a customer a solution like this which saved them many thousands of dollars instead of an engine tear down, new engine, turbo etc. Good job.
BG EPR is an AMAZING product! I have had so many success stories with it. It never fails to impress!
I remember reading about the mechanics of 100 years ago when it was a yearly practice to de-carbon valves and heads. Looks like we're back to the beginning with this new technology 🤣🤣🤣 Everything old is new again. Also thanks for showing how these new engines really push the oil to the max.
Braxo. Back in the day pour it down the carb on 55 chevy to increase compression as the rings did not seat well. This was an old dealer trick back in the day
water injection works as well
@@oldbiker9739 I was gonna say same thing. A boss of mine that was a very wise old mechanic told me that, and we tested it and conformed it!
My fiat x19 says in the owners manual to be doing a valve adjustment every 20-40k or something really often like that. Same with timing belt being a 50k interval and other important parts like water pump or flushing radiator. People used to actually care about workin on these cars.
I was a Motor Techy 1968 to 1984 and i did overhauls on engines. I did the whole lot, Rebores Overhauled cylinder heads and i am shocked at these Ford engines .Even mine has just gone BUST I did not know about these engines before now..arrrrg
My 2015 is doing the same. It runs and drives great and has 185,000km. Thank you so much for this video!!
Looks saved to me, was sure it was coolant intrusion. Learned something as always. Curious if this is just Ford's small displacement turbo powerplants, or something that other makes will be running into in the near future.Gen2 MINI's call for 10kMiles between changes (1.6 Turbo) and this makes me wonder.
When it comes to carbon on the back of the intake valves, it affects a lot of makes and models.
I couldn’t imagine going that far in between oil changes and being confident enough to keep a car running that way
Most coolant intrusion problems are before the warranty period expired. A few happen just after the warranty period expired and Ford typically takes care of them anyway. There is a class action lawsuit, none are claiming anything close to 100,000 miles, and it's mostly going to get some lawyers paid. I suspect customers can sign up for their $10 check payment by mail. I've seen people get solicitation to join the class action settlement after Ford paid for the engine repair, they declined the lawsuit since the engine was repaired. I don't know how somebody can accept a free repair, and sue for an engine failure, after accepting the free repair at no charge to them.
I'm more curious about the GT350 class action lawsuit.
The Mini with the 1.6 turbo is a PSA 1.6 THP which suffers extremely from carbon buildup but the timing chain issues are an ever larger issue with those engines.
In regards to the carbon buildup, more and more manufacturers are going the combines route of both direct and port injection which can increase efficiency and at the same time keeps the valves cleaner.
The downside is even more complexity because you now have 8 injectors on a 4 cylinder engine...
Oil is cheap ! 4000 mi for most every vehicle , and you won't go wrong.
Rich, count me in as a BG believer. I have a 99 E150 with the 4.2 V6, 240k on the clock and clogged EGR ports when I purchased it. First oil change I ran EPR before dropping the old stuff. You wouldn’t believe the softened chunks of sludge that ended up at the bottom of my drain pan. Engine even quieted down a little after fresh Pennzoil Plat 5W30 and a shot of MMO. Who knows what the old stuff in there was! Only running Motorcraft filters on this old girl as long as she’s mine. I’m going to do another EPR treatment before the next oil change. Thank you for your content and God bless, Brother!
That "Old Lady Hearing Aid" oil funnel is the bomb! ;-)
I am so glad I found this today..... the crap I've just gone through....i have a new place to start as of now! Thank you.... to be continued!
Update: woke up, on with overalls and to the Ford i went... no coolant in the reservoir *enter head scratch* tied hair back, doorag in place fill and let's see ok. 🙉 well at start, immediately the coolant starts flowing through top tube in fast manner, literally cycling through bottom hose- radiator- and - through little hoses in top odd reservoir to do it again. *note not at temp just started. I lean over and look at back and see the smoke.....uh! Shut it off, heard the system still flowing for about 4 minutes, haven't heard that before now. So... thoughts?
P.S. thank you in advance i know you're busy!!!
This is incredible to me, yes I believe you. I just am amazed at how the use of these chemicals works and how much mechanics poo-poo’d this a few years ago. But your video is the proof. If all works out you’ve saved the customer $thousands$. Good job and the videos coming!
Yes sir
Sometimes you can clean things out in the beginning and then it comes back but it takes several cleanings to get real results
I have that same funnel. Hardly ever use it...but when I do, I appreciate it!
I think that's the first F-bomb I heard you drop.
Appreciate the great info here man. I just found you and gave you a follow. I used to change my oil at 7,500 and in the past my vehicles have done really well as I changed my own oil. Now you have me thinking to go with 5k though. Much cheaper alternative to replacing an engine. It's so hard nowadays to know the truth about cars with everyone online and opinions. Im going to give you a try with all the good stuff I've seen though. Thanks for your experience.
5k max for oil changes
I’m a retired technician who started working on cars professionally in the late 70’s and did a fair amount of “shade tree” stuff before I could even drive. I’m still amazed that people don’t get the “ideal conditions” crap about changing oil!! Maybe you should hammer away about this in a future video. Hardly any car EVER falls in this category. I bought my wife a 17 Escape new in late 16 and it’s just about to turn 100k… I seldom let it get more than a few hundred miles over 3000 when I change it. Always use good synthetic oil and filter. The Escape is a 2.0 and other than oil, filters,one set of front brakes and a set of tires really never had any problems. I usually do at least 2 and sometimes close to 3 services before the stupid oil change warning comes on, usually between 9-10,000 miles. I can’t believe these people going that many miles and wonder why it needs engine work!! I guess a lot of people like plunking down 35-40 grand every 3-4 years for a new one, but I’m not one of them. Listen up people take it from professional and retired professional technicians…you want to hang on to your vehicle more than a few years, change the fluids!!! Not just oil either transmission, differential oil, transfer cases and especially anti-freeze!! Anti freeze doesn’t get (usually) all nasty like in the 1960-1990 era but it gets really acidic and starts eating up gaskets and starts leaking coolant and if you aren’t paying attention, next thing you know you are doing head gaskets or engine replacement!! Food for thought people. Great videos, I enjoy watching them. 👍🏻
Regards from Dominican Republic. Thanks for the explanation. I have a 2013 Ford Escape with the same problem. I asked the mechanic if he had passed the oil and he lied to me. Thank you very much.
BG makes great products. I'm especially partial to there induction cleaner that gets induced into intake while running. It can make any car smoke like that after sitting after treatment 🤣 I know you know the power of seafoam, BG, or mercury power tune de carbonizers. Even the GDI intake cleaner from CRC is decent. Keep em coming
I have a 2015 blue 1.6L escape and change the oil every 3000-5000 kilometres and follow the recommended maintenance in the owners manual and advice from the mechanic. It has 152,000km and I bought it 2 years ago at 138,500km and have had lots of maintenance done. They are a great suv for the city
Funny, my one-liter fox engine also takes exactly four quarts of oil -- not the 1.2 gallon specified in the manual and compartment tag. Yes, that factors in filter fill-up.
i had a 2013 flex ecoboost. bought it at 42k. got rid of it at 150k. oil change every 5k with motorcraft 5w30 full synthetic. had the timing chains done around 125k before my premiumcare expired. they weren'y needed, but my tech friend was saving me the expense down the road. he called me and said that my engine was one of the cleanest he had ever see. i always do 5k with full synthetic on everything i own. yeah, i may pay twice as much as thouse who use regular oil every 10k miles, but i trust my engine to last longer than theirs!
when in doubt get the BG out i always say. good methodical and fast save dude that was scary. i don't know how it would fair in modern engines but ive had good results with RISLONE back in the day, even seen it up compression. id bump the oil too with high mileage/looser clearances, those are only "factory recommendations" from the engineers, climate, duty application and general overall condition dictate what viscosity oil should be in the crankcase.
Thank you for clarification I have a 2017 ford edge titanium with same symtoms
All direct injection vehicles should have been equipped with air-oil separators from the factory, especially when intake valve fouling was a known problem.
Modern oils are made to clean the valves on di engines the fine mist of oil that passes through the pcv system is the only thing that touches the valves a lot of the carbon that builds up on the valves is the back splash of fuel when the engine is turned off.
Actually whoever thought direct injection was a good idea was an idiot. To save some mpg, emissions and gain minor hp it wasn't worth it for what it does to an engine over time. Cleaning the valves shouldn't be a maintenance item.
@@repnatl I guess your right in one sense a lot of new technology that solves one problem often leads to another but look at a lot of new fords that have both port and direct injection toyota is doing the same thing
@@stevennunez6013 I believe on some of the new Toyota engines they have a computer controlled injection. Where the majority of the time is direct injection but also port injection. I completely agree, direct injection may save fuel but will end up consuming more materials in the long run. EPA regulations are pushing consumers towards electric cars.
@@stevennunez6013 lol @ thinking an oil can clean valves. Oil is sticky, and not a solvent like fuel.
It sticks to everything, traps dirt to it and causes this in the first place. If cars vented to atmosphere, valves would be spotless
Great video. New subscriber here. I have a 2015 escape with 85,000 miles. But I bought it specifically with the 2.5L. Zero problems and I run it pretty hard. Thanks for being a stand up guy and not throwing parts at it.
The 2.5 liter engine is the best one they make in that class
@@FordBossMe It was hard to find when I got it. They were all ecoboost and I didn’t want that
I have a 2020 2.0 Ecoboost Esacpe AWD Tinaium, and a 2020 Explorer ST and a 2021 Explorer ST, UPR catch cans on all 3 and what we drain out is NASTY and TOXIC smelling.
You fancy huh
I look forward to using BP EPR at some pojnt in the future. Thank you, Ford Boss Me!
BG does make good shit. Have you ever tried anything different for induction cleaning on these like water, or water methanol? I had to decarbon some old lady cars years ago, just hold it about 3k rpms and slowly pour a small stream of water in the carb. It worked back in the day. I'm sure you've noticed how nice and clean the combustion chamber is on a blown head gasket car
I've owned 2 EcoBoost trucks and I've always changed my oil using a full synthetic and at 3k miles just based off what I saw at the dealership.
On another note, I've never tried it on a vehicle but I've fixed a few small engines on power lawn equipment with stuck rings by pouring MMO down the spark plug hole and allowing it to soak for a couple days. I've heard of WD 40 working the same to break loose the gunk around the rings when poured into the cylinder.
The problem with small turbo direct inject engines is the owners don't drive the cars at high loads often enough.
Facts!
My escape with the 1.6 says I get 19mpg lmao I floor it everywhere
Thank you so much for your help !! I just bought a 2013 escape se with 79,000 miles and notice smoking few days right after 😢 and i was stressing what it could be
Careful - look up.... escape coolant intrusion and 1.5l ecoboost coolant intrusion and 2.0l ecoboost coolant intrusion
I don't know what engine is in yours but look that up
Rich - great video, THANK YOU!! 👏👏
Questions - maybe I have poor streaming this week, due to 5G replacing 4G in my neighborhood -
You changed the oil & filter first ...
Exactly what is the name of the flush you added to the fresh oil?
Did you run it for a time (2 hours?) to double-check for smoke (sure looked like coolant when it came in!) - -
and then change the oil & filter AGAIN,
OR did you just return the car to the customer?
Regular oil OR real synthetic?
Thank you again Sir!!
@Ford Boss Me
PS for low cranking compression, I've used Engine Restore with a fresh oil change & filter, going back 30+ years. Recheck compression 1 - 2 - 3 weeks later, psi has gone up AND more power and throttle response. If you want more info and a history of the cars I used it in (including 71 Opel Manta coupe for autocross), let me know, and if you want, I'll send it to you off-this-thread.
Thanks again!! 👊👊💪💪
The oil that was in the vehicle was only 600 miles on it and I added a product called BG EPR Cleaner and I ran it for 15 minutes at about 1500 RPM and then drain the oil
I put about 3.75 quarts of 5w 30 and then I add a small can of the same company that makes the product above of BG MOA.... it's a supplement additive to the oil
love the BG products brought them to my shop saved quite a few vehicles with it. love your attitude about mfgr. recommend service intervals, and oil weight. keep doing what you do
Tyvm
The Ford dealer told me to change the oil in both of my vehicles every 3,000 to 3,500 miles. They said you never change the oil enough especially the eco boost engines
That sounds environmentally friendly...LOL. So much for "eco".
Got the old 4L SOHC with 176K. Previous owners used synthetic blend, I use the full synthetic. Maintenance is the thing with these oldies. Hope you can get success with the Ecoboost, there are surely LOTS of them around now!
Great information. I agree 100% with doing maintenance earlier on ecoboost.
I was a Ford tech for 16 years. I always told people to not go by the oil minder in their car. It likes to them.
When you put 30W in instead of the recommended 20W, you mentioned the vehicle had 200K+ miles on it. Do you recommend upping the weight on all vehicles that are up there in mileage? Or was this just a special scenario considering the obvious wear and tear on the internals and sludge?
As the vehicle increases in mileage it wouldn't be a bad idea to increase the viscosity a little bit
@@FordBossMe what about if your car engine is burning oil? I do own a 2015 KIA Rio EX Im using 5w30 as told by my mechanic. Using BG products trying to help with Carbon Deposits. Great channelnic. Using BG products trying to help with Carbon Deposits. Great channel
Previous corvette I had had a very hard life. I put in 5w40 indtead of 5w30 and flushed it with engine flush a few times, ran much smoother and had better oil pressure after
I love the Ecoboost engine, but people have to maintain them. They neglect the car then complain that it’s unreliable.
yeah and this advice goes for a lot of the new small displacement, direct injection, turbocharged engines out there. yes, they have impressive numbers but you have to use synthetic oil and have to make sure you change the oil often. they are not like the large displacement V8s in older domestics. personally, I would change the oil at half or 2/3 of the mileage that the manufacturer recommends for most new vehicles. for example, the interval is 6k miles on my wrx. i change it every 3k. my father just got a new ram 2500 with the diesel engine. cummins says 15k mile interval, he plans to do 10k.
@@boxr_4214 for the Cummins I'd just do it at 5-7k. Oil is cheap Cummins are expensive
Thank you Great video! You really helped with my 2013 Ford Fusion. I just love a get to the point fantastic mechanic
My wife drives a 2016 escape 2.5 engine no problems 70k perfect engine since Ford fix it
Same here but the Fusion. It's non turbo so it's a much better engine. Developed with Mazda i believe
You are a Master... amazing work.. I am a Ford guy but it's the same for the GT350
You have all the cool gadget tools, I'm jealous. I know you've collected them over time.
I have a Toyota sequioa whit 234,457 miles on her and she stills running strong dude, my secret it’s do your own maintenance period, good vid bro,
I'll be changing my wife's oil every 3,000 miles with the new engine shes getting in her fusion.
-change the filter too. Especially with the new small turbo engines.
If it's Turbo
Yeah I am. It's the 1.6l ecoboost. It's being replaced because coolant was leaking into cylinder 3
@@Ogtonyg shouldn’t be a problem.
Get a better oil and you can stay at the 5k mark. The synthetic blend from ford is junk.
Ok I probably shouldn't say anything but my 2010 f150 I bought new with the 5.4 3 valve now has 235,000 . I only did engine oil changes every 5,000 miles transmission fluid change every 60,000 miles and rear-end fluid every 60,000 coolant, power Steering fluid brake fluid every so often. regular oil changes are definitely important. You got a new sub.👍
Wouldn’t a catch can work on the eco boost engines since they are directly injected. I’m not no expert but even I understand that gas is an good solvent.
A catch can will help some but you have to understand this vehicle has 189,000 miles on it we're trying to save it a catch can would be too late at this point so if we can save it and then give the recommendation absolutely a jlt catch can would be great but it's not going to stop everything
@@FordBossMe I understand that it has almost 200k miles. I was talking about newer vehicles. I miss spoke on my comment, should have been more clear.
@@bobimbordino3024 you just have to be careful of what dealership you go to while adding aftermarket parts on no matter if it hurts the engine or not
@@FordBossMe Thankfully my local Hyundai dealer emptied my catch can for me with my oil change haha.
It doesn't stop all buildup, but slows it down considerably. I noticed in winter it also catches a ton of condensation.
Thank you so much for posting this I’m having the same issue with my girlfriends car I’m going to give it a shot
Add some marvel mystery in between and you'll be a happy customer with such a cheap priced product.
I am going to try this and report back. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Please do!
Great video!! I have a 2011 3.5ecoboost f150 had it since new now has 143’000 miles i change my oil every 4-4500 miles with full synthetic and it runs amazing still as it did new
I have a 1.5 with 170k miles smokes on cold start almost every morning...will do this procedure as soon as all parts are in post my results! TY
Sometimes it takes a few times to do it so you're going to have to like do it and then run fresh oil in for a month or two do it again and then flush it again a month or two later
@Ford Boss Me would you recommend using 2- 11oz cans ? Did it this weekend and still smokin. But oil & filter was clean ( oil change 1k miles ago looked 100% till flushed, whaT came out looked 100% black so I know it's def cleaning build up. For round 2 what's your opinion on how concentrated I can take it without hurting seals & such ?
Def right on about oil level as well. Did 4 qts + 11oz conditioner ...not 4.3 and was maxed.
It's nice to see a consummate professional at work..
In my shop we used a VS7 from Mighty and it was excellent at a carbon removal just feed it through the brake booster line and hold it at 2000rpms.. it cured a number of engines ❤
That is awesome, what a great product. It is sure worth trying, u wouldn't loose anything. Great videos like this are very helpful. Keep it up!!!
Exactly. I am one of the only guys at my dealership who actually checks the oil level and noticed that 4.3 was to much. I remember Ford in the beginning with the 2013 models say 5.5-6qts for the 1.6 but then had a literal oil change recall where we changed the oil, replaced that crappy dip stick and put a yellow sticker with the 4.3qt spec on it. Noticed it was still high and found 4qts to be proper.
My 2014 Ford Escape with 162K miles was very well maintained but I am having the same problem, it’s smoking just as the car in your video.
The Car Shield Extended warranty refuse to cover / pay for the repair because they see the sludge build up.
The cost to replace the engine is over $6K
There is also a Coolant leek as shown in another of your videos.
I am glad n happy to see how the flush you did worked.
Since CS won’t cover I will have to try the product you used to fixed that car.
Thanks for reading.
it may take several attempts using the product not just one time
Spot on!👍I also fill the oil filter when I can!
Hyundai and Kia with GDI engines are notorious for this.
2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 GDI sport, 110,000 miles. I change the oil every 4k. Never had an issue, Last oil change noticed it was two qts low. Took it to the mechanic who wouldn't even touch it. Gave the gold old standby "take it to the dealership." I changed spark plugs and PCV and began monitoring oil consumption. Approx 1 qt low at 1000 miles. Ran CRC Intake valve cleaner through the vacuum line and BG EPR and MOA per instructions and BG 44K in the gas tank. 2500 Miles in and I've added about a qt of oil. Substantial decrease in oil consumption. I just ordered the BG Dynamic engine cleaner set and I'm gonna run it through next oil change. Fingers crossed.
Thank you much appreciated all the info fixed my issue too
My 2015 Altima is smoking exactly like that (thick white smoke) and only after a highway drive. But it only has 70k miles and I change the oil regularly. A mechanic is doing a complete engine flush with the BG kit. He checked the head gasket “it’s clean no leaks” so when I get the car back will monitor to see if no more smoke.
I changed the pcv valve and the oil separator on my 1.6 ecoboost and for like 2 weeks everything was fine . I noticed 2 days ago that it started smoking again , not so bad like before but still , i can see it and smell it ...
I ran this in the wife’s 2010 RX 350 180k miles. Also add a can of MOA at the oil change. The car is like new. I also change the oil every 3000-3500 miles. The engine noise is now gone. Actually changing the oil in the morning again.
BG works
I don't own a ford but glad you put this out to show even though it is a engine with a turbo, the epr and moa actually work on both applications, I'm just missing the moa for my vehicle now.
2/19/2022: Thank you! I have a very mild case of blue smoke on startup. For me it is intermittent and started shortly after the warranty expired. It is most likely to do it when it gets down to freezing and parked overnight. Sometimes it doesn't do it for weeks and then it starts up again. I'm gonna try the flush and with edit this post with my results.
Tyvm let Me know
So I bought a 2017 Escape 1.5L with 187m mikes on it. Seller replaced the high pressure fuel pump and cam follower a month ago. It quickly lost high pressure fuel on fuel rail. I pulled the HP pump and found the cam follower had a hole in it. So what’s to prevent my new cam follower from repeating again? I’m in the process of cleaning out the oil pan and sump screen. I’ll flush with BG EPR products later this week when I get them via ups. Thanks!
I had the exact same issue pop up recently on my 2015 1.6 that's coming up on 100k miles. I've been worried about a blown head gasket but after seeing this I will definitely be trying this first.
My parents have a 2013 Ford escape with the 1.6L. They're nearing 100k miles, no smoke on start up yet but still something they should keep in mind. Gonna share this video with them, Thanks.
do this shit now before it's a problem.
This is exactly what’s going on in our car, going to try your recommendations!
I used epr in my 2011 mercury grand marquis. A very little light blue smoke came out . Seemed like it worked nicely. And i put the moa in with my fresh oil , see how it goes
Great content man. Everything you recommend is exactly what I do
This worked no Lie 2013 fordescape with 135k miles is good now ! Thank you!
Great to hear!
I just commented on another one of your videos about my ST 2.0 turbo Eco Boost engine. I started to get nervous about my new used ST with 41,0000 miles. I have a new comfort about this engine. One it is a manual transmission no torque converter. Two I am not a professional mechanic, but I have been working on my own cars for forty years. I know the value of oil changes with good quality oil. I did all the services on my 2013 ST from when I bought it at 36,000 miles until I sold it two weeks ago 171,000 miles. Oil changes every 5,000 miles with Synthetic oil and high-quality filters. This was a pain because I drive 2,000 a month, so oil changes every two and a half months. Belts and new plugs every 50,000 miles. I guess if you take extra good care of these engines, they can last a long time. Long time Ford owner, two 66, two 67, one 71, 97 Cobra, 07 GT, 12 GT mustangs. 64 Galaxie, 71 Torino and two Focus STs.
I used this all the time and it works great 👍
Instructions on EPR container says run engine for at least 10 minutes at 1,200 RPM. If in ADDITION to running engine for 10 minutes, will damage be done to engine if the car is driven around for another 50 to 100 miles BEFORE DRAINING out the EPR. Would these extra 50 to 100 miles give more cleaning to the engine or instead would damage the engine?
Bro thank you. My employee purchased one of these sleds and I did the exact procedure and it's good. You do recommend staying with 5w 30 synthetic
Yes
It may need the flush a few times to ensure real good cleaning over the next 6 months and it'll keep getting better
Excellent diagnosis. As an ecoboost enthusiast, i would have probably had a much more devastating theory, like a cracked head or bad turbo seal if i saw smoke like that.
Oil changes every 3000 + desert heat and no humidity = my old Hyundai Elantra still runs like new with 389,000 miles. Lots of timing belts and trans oil changes, a few radiators.
Your oil selections are right on the money.
Does the no humidity matter? I live in Denver which has very low humidity and my Malibu is at 280k miles
What oil are you using? That’s amazing.
Thank you for the awesome information. Keep up the good work. !!