FYI to anyone reading this - it is a million times easier to unplug the electrical EGR connector from the engine bay. It's right on top and can be disconnected by hand relatively easily. You will find it beside the battery box, almost directly above cylinder 5. Install the new EGR valve completely BEFORE reconnecting the electrical connector. It can be reconnected even easier than disconnecting it. I also recommend spraying the electrical connector with an aerosol electronics cleaner, available from your auto parts store. Just make sure your battery is disconnected before spraying anything electrical and give it ample time to dry. I'd recommend disconnecting the EGR as step 1, cleaning the plug as step 2, and then following the procedure in this video.
I did this on my 2010 Wrangler with an auto transmission last weekend (103,000 miles). I ended up rounding off the hidden bolt using a 12 pt box end wrench and I didn't realize it. There is very little clearance (~0.5") between the transmission tube and the bolt even after prying the tube out of the way. I ended up buying a "pass-thru" 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6pt socket to get the bolt off (see link below). I was so relieved when I broke that bolt free. The pass-thru design reduced the thickness enough to get the ratchet in, but also enough offset to get around the EGR valve. The 6pt was also a life saver since it gripped the rounded off bolt head. I also got unlucky with the harness having no slack. Sigh. This job is definitely not for the faint of heart, but I could not have done it without this video. Thanks! I just hope I don't ever have to change the valve again. www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-Drive-6-Point-Pass-Thru-Ratchet-and-Socket-Set-30-Piece-H6PTTHRU30PC/303046174
Your Video was VERY helpful! One tip for anyone who might be interested - I removed the dip stick and put a large (clean!) screwdriver in it's place. I then used 2 large tie wraps (around the screw driver and pulled the dip stick tube towards the center of my 09 Jeep. This allowed me to get to the top screw. Also caution - the replacement EGR valve that I purchased from Pep Boys had the incorrect plug. I ended up returning it and purchasing one with the correct length plug at Autozone. Paid a little more but it worked. Thanks again for the helpful video!
I did this on my 2009 JK last Saturday. It went really smooth with no problems because I watched this video before I did it. I have a standard transmission so I didn’t have the dip tube to deal with. I found it easier to just take the whole fender off that way I had more room to move around. Thank you for posting this video!
I love my Wrangler unlimited JK however everything so just so compact, mines is even more naughty, do to me installing a full V8 hemi engine kit into it. You can already imagine how this so much fun taking things apart and putting things back in. I strongly believe every school they should teach the kids all about auto repair too many ppl now a days they just get all freaked out about your car breaking down and that it's going to be to expensive to fix and lots of auto repair shops take advantage with your misunderstanding. They claim it's alot of work getting the fender flares off and that I had to take this thing out plus the parts are expensive on and on 🤣 yet I just put in a new EVG valve they only cost me $40 thanks for this video you're fighting the good fight buddy 👍
Thank you for taking the time to watch. I no longer have the anemic 3.8 liter engine in my Jeep Wrangler either as I recently installed a 6.2 LS engine which does not have EGR so I’m happy to not have to deal with it any longer but it wasn’t too terrible of a job to replace. As for teaching it in school, it’s not the school systems fault there is no automotive classes any longer, it’s the generation that doesn’t want to get their hands dirty and make triple digit figures sitting behind a desk. I helped teach some evening instructional segments to a local high school’s automotive team many years ago but due to lack of interest automotive classes were dropped from the curriculum. Mike
Todd Tamayo $40??? The dealer wants $269.61 plus $10,for the second not included gasket. Plus $350-400 for the labor! It’s a OEM . The aftermarket last anywhere from a week to six months,then you have to go through all that AGAIN!
I just finished changing the EGR valve on my 2011 Wrangler. The main problem I had was the front bolt (theoretically the easier bolt to remove) was stuck. I had no problem removing the back bolt, so I loosened it first. I was finally able to remove the front bolt after the back bolt was out. I was glad the replacement EGR valve came with a set of replacement bolts because the front bolt was beginning to round off by the time it broke loose. The engine is running great now, and the Check Engine light is off. I call that a success. The video was very helpful in explaining the steps.
@@day2day734 It’s been a while since I did this, and I don’t remember exactly what I used to get to the back bolt, but I didn’t need anything beyond a shallow socket and a standard open end wrench.
@ Day 2 Day, the only special tool I used to make it a little easier was a stubby ratcheting wrench. It can be done without it though just using a shallow 10mm socket.
Great video Mike. I couldn't get a good shot at that top bolt with a wrench and didn't want to round it off so I ended up taking the two dip stick tube bolts out and was able to get a stubby 1/4 drive extension and 10mm socket on it and used a Long 1/4 in ratchet for leverage and got it to come loose. I suggest taking your time with the top bolt to prevent it from rounding off.
Thank you for this! I know I can do the EGR myself now since it just came on at 71,400 miles. Got the p0404 code so it needs replacing! Thank you for explaining this so well!
Thank you Sir, great video loaded with awesome tips and advise it is greatly appreciated. You make that look very easy. I watched the video twice made some notes, around up the parts and tools and it still was not easy. Thank you Cheers.
For those of you who owns a 3.8L engine that burns engine oil just switch your oil to 10w30 or 10w40. I use 10w40 and the oil burning stopped. This engine was originally built for a minivan that operates on 10w30 but when Chrysler bought Jeep they needed to comply with the government fuel efficiency standards so for quick fix they recommend 5w20. The engine operates at a higher temperature which creates lots of other problems as well.
More importantly than weight you need to be concerned with the two specs that the engine was designed to have run in it. As long as the oil meets the MS-6395 and at least the ISLAC-GS4 you can pretty much run any weight as long as it meets that criteria and weight/temperature range your good. Mike
I switched to 5w30 a few years ago on mine for this reason. It seemed to help for a while but now I think I must have some other problem. I know my driver side valve cover leaks but its so slow it never drips to the ground. I have to add a quart between oil changes every time. I always change at 3k miles. I really probably should add 2 quarts but 1 is enough to make it to the next change. As for video related, I'll be checking out my EGR this weekend. For a while now my jeep has had a rough idle problem. It will act like its going to stall out and then go back to being fine. Sometimes this will take a couple seconds, other times it's longer. This problem used to not be an every idle situation, now it is. Recently I've been noticing what feels like surges in low gear. For example if I'm in 1st or 2nd and going slowly with a little throttle it won't be smooth but jumpy as if I'm letting on and off the throttle. No codes or CEL.
@@diablocell im having the same issues. Changed plugs, wires, and coil pack.. To fix a mis fire code. Any word on if the EGR was the cause in your jeep?
@@Nick-gf6mg I sold the jeep. I'm sure the EGR could have used some looking at but I will say this- I was using a Flashpaq F5 programmer on the MPG tune. Before letting go of the jeep I returned to stock so I can sell the programmer. All of the issues mentioned above (except for the oil, obviously) magically went away. The tune was the problem, in my case.
Thank you so much for the tips, I used map gas to heat up all but the drivers side bolt. I am glad I did because here in MN bolts rust away fast. I did strip the drivers side bolt but using a punch and hammer I rocked the valve back and forth until it was loose. Similar to what he did in the video by hand
Great video & info. I was thinking of going this route, but the service info says to remove the intake manifold & dipstick tube, etc. This way is much easier, but was still a challenge due to lack of acessability.
+Duckie Thanks. Sorry to hear you had issues with the top bolt. That is one of the reasons I put this short video together was because I had heard of so many issues with that particular bolt getting the head rounded off. Mike
Got it off. I took my metal pry bar and positioned it on the top section of the EGR housing and hit it with a hammer counter clockwise. turned it a quarter of the way and the bolt loosened right up. Opening a beer right now.
Bandits at the local JEEP dealership wanted $700.00 to do this, $730.00 if the coolant needed replacing. I was waiting for the id10t's to suggest my blinker fluid also needed topping off. :(
I work at a jeep dealer and when took my jeep to you service department and they said the the same. I was thinking as cheap as the part is surely it doesn’t cost that much to install. Then the “master tech” said they will have to take the engine out to replace this??? 😳😳😳 i was thinking no way.. and here he didn’t have to do that at all.
Love your Silverton Colorado t-shirt! Great video. Trying to determine if I can do this egr valve, unfortunately I'm traveling through Texas right now. (But I live in Grand Junction)
It's not too technical of a task, just nuts & bolts, but a couple are difficult to access. Thanks for taking the time to watch and for the comments. Mike
07 JK 2dr 160k Great vid. I used this to change mine a few months ago, but my light is still on, so another symptom I saw was the Cats so I changed them and it is still is on so don't know what else to do. It says open valve circuit.
At the beginning of the video, you mentioned testing the connections to see if the EGR valve needs to be replaced. How would I go about doing that? My ‘09 wrangler is throwing the P0404 code but isn’t idling rough, consuming more fuel, or starting hard.
Just check the connections and the wiring into the connections to ensure they are sound. If all looks good then the EGR valve is more than likely the culprit. I’ve had a couple that showed no symptoms other than the code and I had one that had severe idle and running conditions before ever flagging a MIL. Mike
After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way. This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence. The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Use a good worklight for this job. 1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover. 2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work. 3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon. 4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side. 5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket). 6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later). 7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny). 8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me). 9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath). 10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above). 11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough. 12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug. Hope this helps. Good luck.
I am not sure if you will read this since this video is so old but swapped EGR today and it was rough but got it done. Now should the engine code go off automatically or do I need to clear it and see if it comes back? Thanks for all the help!
If it was a hard code you will need to clear it from the PCM. After a few starts with the problems corrected the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) should go out but unless you clear the code it will stay in the history.
Thank you my 11 has been stumbling just turned 90 thousand but wanna say light would start coming on 75.000 miles stopped at local dealerships where I bought it new and was told EGR .... noe light will check engine stays on and it's running rough. How do you get codes or can I do it without tester older MOPAR you could cycle key and count flashes ..,.?.,,,,THANKS FOR VIDEO
Daniel, I have never tried this because I’ve always used my scanner but if memory serves you can turn the key from off to on three times ending with the key on and it will briefly display the code on the dash. Then you can search for information on that particular code to see how to diagnose/troubleshoot. Hope that helps and thanks for watching. Mike
If turning the key from off to Acc 3x doesnt work, as it didnt in my 2011, have Autozone test the code and ask for the real error code. I had Pepboys just tell me "excessive gas in the fuel line." I know, mechanics dont think women work on their vehicles!
Great video, thank you so much. Question though, I have a 2007 wrangler limited that the engine light says it is the EGR Valve. Live in Florida. But it is getting worse and it seems like everytime it rains, the next morning when I start the Jeep, it is spitting and sputtering, have to put it in neutral, race up the road, and then it is fine. However while it is spitting and sputtering, there is a very strong gas smell. Now worried about it catching on fire. Is that related to the EGR valve or something else I should have looked at. Have asked several mechanics and they all say not sure.... Thank you for your help.
Usually an EGR valve issue isn’t going to give off a gasoline odor so I would start looking elsewhere for a fuel leak. Jeep JK’s also are notorious fir fuel smell due to the poor design if the ESIM (Evap System Integrity Monitor) which mounts on the charcoal canister. The small shuttle valve inside the ESIM can let fuel odors escape especially freshly after a fill up and/it sitting off camber such as when off-road.
I don't have the luxury of having my own garage and I need to get this done for emissions.. how much should/ would this cost at a shop? Thanks great vid.
Hard to say. An EGR valve is around $150-$175 plus a couple hours shop time. You don’t need the luxury of a garage to do this just a few tools, some basic mechanical knowledge and drive. Mike
Who's the dipstick that put that dipstick right there? 🙄 Good video. Just changed mine. Pain, but your video helped. Thanks. Check Engine Light is still on right after changing it. Hopefully it will go out on its own or I will just reset it with the scanner tool. With any luck, it will stay out.
Great video! I replaced on an 09 and the CEL comes right back. Tried to clear it with snap on and alldata and no dice. The Jeep runs better and the voltage is right so I know connection and part is good. I heard maybe the code is possibly “burned” into the PCM requiring and reflash. Or new PCM entirely. Ever heard of this?
I gave not heard of a code being “burned in” to a PCM or ECM before. If you have power to the EGR and sensor I would also confirm the ground from the PCM directly at the connector. Mike
should the engine light go off by itself once the new valve is installed? I have the exact same vehicle you are working on. Took it for a regular maintenance and asked them to see why the engine light was on. They said the egr was stuck open. On my way home the light came back on, so I swung by the supply house and picked up an new one.
If the EGR valve is actually stuck open it won’t even idle. All it takes is a small spec of carbon to get lodged in the pintle or seat area and it can cause a rough idle. Many times it is a synchronization between the sensor and valve causing the MIL which result in “EGR insufficient flow” code also As for your question, the EGR is considered a “hard code” and will need a scan tool to clear. Mike
Thanks Mike. I went ahead and replaced the EGR, and the pcv valve. Maybe i shouldn't have, but since the EGR had a lot of carbon in it, I stuck the B12 chem-tool nozzle in both ends, where the valve hooked up to, and hosed it out. It did seem to fix the idle, occasional tick, problem, so now I guess I just need to go in and have it put back on the machine to clear the light.
@@zmotorsports62 I have a 2015 wrangler JK sport and it keeps throwing a P0441 code instantly even if I clear with my scanner or disconnect battery the code instantly comes back its like it doesnt even clear. I replaced purge valve, checked for loose evap hoses and everything seemed fine but still the same problem. Any ideas?
Not off the top of my head. Look closely at the lines from the purge valve all the way back to the tank specifically where they run along the frame near the exhaust. I’ve never been impressed with where Chrysler ran these so close to the exhaust. Mike
Just watched your video and studied it. I have to change mine out on a standard transmission. What was the name of the tool you used last to put the fender back?
I’m not sure what you are referring to. To put the inner fender back in place you need a plastic river gun and the OE style plastic rivets. I hope that’s what you are talking about. Mike
This video was a great help on Monday when I replaced my ERG. However the light came back on last night and I am still getting the same fault. Any idea what it could be?
Are there specific connections and wiring points associated with the ERG that I should check first before replacing it? Obviously, the connection at the top of the ERG that you plug/unplug to replace it, but beyond that one?
Wes Dingman the wiring, connections and circuit in general should always be checked before merely replacing components, that should be considered during any repair. I’m not saying components don’t go bad but most people want a quick fix and just want to go straight to component replacement. Many times after a repair like that after the part is replaced the same symptom exists but the money has already been spent on the part by this time because due diligence in troubleshooting wasn’t performed. As for circuit diagnosis I would start at the connector on the actual EGR valve, then verify the wiring integrity focusing on where the harness comes close to either heat, such as near exhaust manifolds/system, or near any potential pinch points. Best of luck on the repair. Mike
I have attempted this job on three separate occasions each taking an entire full Saturday and Sunday of my time. I've spent over 150 dollars on different types and sizes of 10 mm wrenches. I even cut a 10 mm 6 pt socket (so as not to strip the bolt) to size, then welded it to a peice of flat steel that I had curved so I could get as much torque on it as I could without the firewall getting in the way. I twisted the EGR valve once I got the lower bolt off.. but the "hidden" bolt I can never get off. How in the hell does the dealership do this? They must have some special tool.. Its now summer.. I'm thinking the warmer temperatures might give me a better chance.. working out of the garage in the sunlight perhaps I could see more.. This job is a #$%@#$@#%@#%@!
Sorry you’re having such a difficult time of this. Trust me the dealer will charge you much more than the couple of hours by the method I demonstrate and they have no specialty tools other than the ones I show in the video. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike
Think this could be the problem to my P2173 code? I’ve replaced the TB, MAP sensor, PCV valve and hose, crank and cam position sensors, coil pack and plug wires.
Hi Mike - Great video....I'm getting a P1404 on my 09 JK. (EGR Position Sensor Rationally closed) I'm assuming this is a different code than a P0404? Should I still change the EGR valve?
It’s hard to say but the position sensor is actually part of the EGR valve. I would double check your electrical connections first same as any other code rather than merely replacing parts. I’ve seen damaged wiring and connectors also cause issues. Mike
Just to clarify, none of them directly say this code equals replace this part. This is a common misconception with all modern ODBII supported vehicles. The actual way it works is the PCM is monitoring a series of variables at all times. IF the PCM sees something outside a specific parameter it doesn’t necessarily say to replace this component. That is how many parts swappers get into trouble. If a certain series of events takes place it will set a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) that “closest “ matches a particular code. I hope that makes sense but I have seen people chase their tails because a certain code is set but may have little or nothing to do with the actual component that has failed or mechanical issue that is happening. It helps to look at see exactly what sets a particular code and then check each item or criteria with actual component replacement being last rather than just start throwing parts at vehicles. Sorry for the long explanation but I hate to see people just throw parts on vehicles wasting time and money without really understanding what is going on to flag a particular code. Mike
Yes, thanks Mike. It makes sense. Some of the codes are specific (ie OS sensor & location) and some are vague. Unfortunately this code being the latter of the 2. I'll have to dig deeper and see if there's some logical steps on what to check and in what order for a P1404. I am in no rush to pay $700+ to have someone do this for me. The Forums on this issue are all over the globe. Any links (sites) you can recommend? Thanks again
Unfortunately most of the general Jeep forums have parts changers that will merely throw out comments as to what parts they think you should change with not much consideration to proper troubleshooting. I prefer to use iATN which is a forum for actual mechanics to have discussions about various issues and work together to solve them. I would start by looking there and see if someone with a similar issue has already requested assistance. Mike
Turned out silly me I forgot to plug that spark plug wire back on. Once I did that the sound went away. I pulled the wire closest to the valve to make more room.
I replaced my egr today on my 2011, all whent well but I can't get the code to erase or go away. I disconnected the battery during the change to help not put any other codes up, and still nothing. Any tips?
When you say erase, are you using a scan tool? You can’t just disconnect the battery on the newer OBDII operating systems. They have to be cleared via a scan tool. If you used a scan tool to clear and it won’t clear there’s another issue, possibly wiring or connector issue. Hope that helps. Mike
I have had similar results between OEM and the NAPA ones. I’ve used the NAPA ones for the past 6 years or so now. They’re a little less expensive and carry a better warranty. Mike
I have a question for you I replace my EGR valve on my 07 Jeep Wrangler and it popped out a 304 code now it won't pass emissions open circuit what do I do next?
Code 304 is a misfire on cylinder #4. I don’t see what replacing the EFR would have on a misfire unless maybe a wire or connection was disturbed when changing the EGR.
The sensor is part of the valve on these so if it’s a valve OR a sensor issue it will require replacement. Wiring or a connector is also what you want to verify is not the issue before just replacing the valve assembly.
Eddie Ugarte $350-450 at my local dealer,plus Nearly $300 for the OEM MOPAR valve. After market ones last a few months,then you have to go through all that AGAIN!
That is more than likely the culprit because the sensor is sending a signal that the valve isn’t moving. I’ve heard of people freeing a stick valve and will sometimes work and allow the code to be cleared but it varies on how long until it has issues again. Mike
+Ahoohi back when I had my business I was charging a couple hours labor plus the part. EGR valve was about $150 and my shop rate was fairly cheap @ $60/hr.
Thanks for watching. Any of my videos within the last year or so the sound is better as I purchased a mic system. This is a much older video before the lavalier mic. Mike
Um so a nice prefectly new clean jeep as your example? You couldnt get a real broken in one?. The back hidden bolt is torqued in tight and the little stubby wrench plus pressure on egr is a luck of the draw and a longshot especially if your jeep is over 5 years old and broken in. I hate the emission engineers that design this bs.
While I agree with you on the location and what were the engineers thinking, my Jeep was far from new when my first EGR valve went bad. I had to replace two EGR valves in the 92k miles that engine had on it over the 8 years with that engine. One if the things I like about my new V8 engine is......no EGR valve. I’ve changed EGR valves on about 8 JK’s now with all ranges of miles and so far rotating the EGR valve with a wrench on it has worked on all but one and that one came to me with a rounded off bolt head because the owner attempted it first. That one was a real PITA but I was able to remove it. Thanks for watching, sorry it wasn’t more help. Mike
No need to pull the engine to replace the EGR valve. I haven't heard that one yet.🤔 And I would charge more than $600 to pull and reinstall the engine.
@@zmotorsports62 it sounded farfetched. I sales cars at a Chrysler dealer. I went str8 to the service department soon as the light came on today and the “master tech” said this isn’t good. The engine has to come out to replace. I I felt that was kinda crazy. Also I was Just not comfortable having my engine taken out over a part that seems so simple. I knew it was a simpler solution. Thanks for the video I’m sure I couldn’t do this on my own but atleast I know there a better way.
Yeah, I've done several of these now and can't even imagine telling someone the engine has too come out to replace an EGR valve. I'd lose all credibility if I told someone that.
FYI to anyone reading this - it is a million times easier to unplug the electrical EGR connector from the engine bay. It's right on top and can be disconnected by hand relatively easily. You will find it beside the battery box, almost directly above cylinder 5. Install the new EGR valve completely BEFORE reconnecting the electrical connector. It can be reconnected even easier than disconnecting it. I also recommend spraying the electrical connector with an aerosol electronics cleaner, available from your auto parts store. Just make sure your battery is disconnected before spraying anything electrical and give it ample time to dry. I'd recommend disconnecting the EGR as step 1, cleaning the plug as step 2, and then following the procedure in this video.
Take off the battery and battery encasing? Maybe it might be easier
Do you have any video on it
Your sound is terrible thanks for posting anyway
I did this on my 2010 Wrangler with an auto transmission last weekend (103,000 miles). I ended up rounding off the hidden bolt using a 12 pt box end wrench and I didn't realize it. There is very little clearance (~0.5") between the transmission tube and the bolt even after prying the tube out of the way. I ended up buying a "pass-thru" 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6pt socket to get the bolt off (see link below). I was so relieved when I broke that bolt free. The pass-thru design reduced the thickness enough to get the ratchet in, but also enough offset to get around the EGR valve. The 6pt was also a life saver since it gripped the rounded off bolt head.
I also got unlucky with the harness having no slack. Sigh.
This job is definitely not for the faint of heart, but I could not have done it without this video. Thanks! I just hope I don't ever have to change the valve again.
www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-Drive-6-Point-Pass-Thru-Ratchet-and-Socket-Set-30-Piece-H6PTTHRU30PC/303046174
Thank you for the comments and glad you were finally able to get that bolt out.
Mike
I’m going to attempt this tomorrow. This guy seems like a total pro.
Your Video was VERY helpful! One tip for anyone who might be interested - I removed the dip stick and put a large (clean!) screwdriver in it's place. I then used 2 large tie wraps (around the screw driver and pulled the dip stick tube towards the center of my 09 Jeep. This allowed me to get to the top screw. Also caution - the replacement EGR valve that I purchased from Pep Boys had the incorrect plug. I ended up returning it and purchasing one with the correct length plug at Autozone. Paid a little more but it worked. Thanks again for the helpful video!
Which EGR did you buy?
My EGR fault went on today. Had no idea how I would go about replacing the EGR valve but thanks to this video now I have a starting point. Thank you
You’re welcome. Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Mike
I did this on my 2009 JK last Saturday. It went really smooth with no problems because I watched this video before I did it. I have a standard transmission so I didn’t have the dip tube to deal with. I found it easier to just take the whole fender off that way I had more room to move around. Thank you for posting this video!
Thanks For the comments and for watching John. I’m glad it was helpful.
Mike
I love my Wrangler unlimited JK however everything so just so compact, mines is even more naughty, do to me installing a full V8 hemi engine kit into it. You can already imagine how this so much fun taking things apart and putting things back in. I strongly believe every school they should teach the kids all about auto repair too many ppl now a days they just get all freaked out about your car breaking down and that it's going to be to expensive to fix and lots of auto repair shops take advantage with your misunderstanding. They claim it's alot of work getting the fender flares off and that I had to take this thing out plus the parts are expensive on and on 🤣 yet I just put in a new EVG valve they only cost me $40 thanks for this video you're fighting the good fight buddy 👍
Thank you for taking the time to watch. I no longer have the anemic 3.8 liter engine in my Jeep Wrangler either as I recently installed a 6.2 LS engine which does not have EGR so I’m happy to not have to deal with it any longer but it wasn’t too terrible of a job to replace.
As for teaching it in school, it’s not the school systems fault there is no automotive classes any longer, it’s the generation that doesn’t want to get their hands dirty and make triple digit figures sitting behind a desk.
I helped teach some evening instructional segments to a local high school’s automotive team many years ago but due to lack of interest automotive classes were dropped from the curriculum.
Mike
Todd Tamayo $40??? The dealer wants $269.61 plus $10,for the second not included gasket. Plus $350-400 for the labor! It’s a OEM .
The aftermarket last anywhere from a week to six months,then you have to go through all that AGAIN!
I just finished changing the EGR valve on my 2011 Wrangler. The main problem I had was the front bolt (theoretically the easier bolt to remove) was stuck. I had no problem removing the back bolt, so I loosened it first. I was finally able to remove the front bolt after the back bolt was out. I was glad the replacement EGR valve came with a set of replacement bolts because the front bolt was beginning to round off by the time it broke loose. The engine is running great now, and the Check Engine light is off. I call that a success. The video was very helpful in explaining the steps.
Glad everything went well on your replacement.
Thank you for watching and for the comments.
Mike
Did you need any “special” adapters to get the back bolt. Need to do my 2011.
@@day2day734 It’s been a while since I did this, and I don’t remember exactly what I used to get to the back bolt, but I didn’t need anything beyond a shallow socket and a standard open end wrench.
@ Day 2 Day, the only special tool I used to make it a little easier was a stubby ratcheting wrench. It can be done without it though just using a shallow 10mm socket.
Great video Mike. I couldn't get a good shot at that top bolt with a wrench and didn't want to round it off so I ended up taking the two dip stick tube bolts out and was able to get a stubby 1/4 drive extension and 10mm socket on it and used a Long 1/4 in ratchet for leverage and got it to come loose. I suggest taking your time with the top bolt to prevent it from rounding off.
Glad you liked the video and thanks for watching.
Mike
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. Impressed with the cleanliness of your shop.
Thank you. I appreciate the comments. Glad it was helpful.
Mike
Thank you for providing us with part numbers and helpful tips. It is much appreciated.
You’re welcome.
It’s nice to know these videos are helpful to others.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Question for u.. how did u get the top bolt out? I'm having a hard time.
Watch @ 10:45 in the video.
Ok thank you. Much appreciated. It had been a long 8 days worth of troubleshooting my 09 wrangler so I hope the egr is the problem.
Wow, what an outstanding video! Thank you for taking the time to create such a helpful and thorough post.
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.
Mike
Thank you for this! I know I can do the EGR myself now since it just came on at 71,400 miles. Got the p0404 code so it needs replacing! Thank you for explaining this so well!
Glad you found the information helpful.
Thank you for watching and for the comments. Mike
Anything to keep my 2011 wrangler running well... low miles for a 10 yo vehicle. 😁
THANK YOU FOR a great video and the advice! Just did mine. That rear bolt was a MONSTER to get to!
Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for watching and for the comments.
Mike
Extremely helpful and the shortcuts he takes saves alot of time. Fantastic video
What a good video, wasn't a easy work but now I know I have too take time to do it. Thank you very much!!!!!
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Mike
Great, straightforward, no BS video. Thanks!
Thank you for watching and for the comments.
Mike
Thank you Sir, great video loaded with awesome tips and advise it is greatly appreciated. You make that look very easy. I watched the video twice made some notes, around up the parts and tools and it still was not easy.
Thank you Cheers.
I’m glad you found it informative.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Excellent! Thank you! Going to replace mine this weekend. Stick shift 2007 Jk .
I hope it was helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Just wanted to say thank you for such an excellent video! I appreciate the detail.
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback.
Mike
For those of you who owns a 3.8L engine that burns engine oil just switch your oil to 10w30 or 10w40. I use 10w40 and the oil burning stopped. This engine was originally built for a minivan that operates on 10w30 but when Chrysler bought Jeep they needed to comply with the government fuel efficiency standards so for quick fix they recommend 5w20. The engine operates at a higher temperature which creates lots of other problems as well.
More importantly than weight you need to be concerned with the two specs that the engine was designed to have run in it. As long as the oil meets the MS-6395 and at least the ISLAC-GS4 you can pretty much run any weight as long as it meets that criteria and weight/temperature range your good.
Mike
I switched to 5w30 a few years ago on mine for this reason. It seemed to help for a while but now I think I must have some other problem. I know my driver side valve cover leaks but its so slow it never drips to the ground. I have to add a quart between oil changes every time. I always change at 3k miles. I really probably should add 2 quarts but 1 is enough to make it to the next change.
As for video related, I'll be checking out my EGR this weekend. For a while now my jeep has had a rough idle problem. It will act like its going to stall out and then go back to being fine. Sometimes this will take a couple seconds, other times it's longer. This problem used to not be an every idle situation, now it is. Recently I've been noticing what feels like surges in low gear. For example if I'm in 1st or 2nd and going slowly with a little throttle it won't be smooth but jumpy as if I'm letting on and off the throttle.
No codes or CEL.
@@diablocell im having the same issues. Changed plugs, wires, and coil pack.. To fix a mis fire code. Any word on if the EGR was the cause in your jeep?
@@Nick-gf6mg I sold the jeep. I'm sure the EGR could have used some looking at but I will say this- I was using a Flashpaq F5 programmer on the MPG tune. Before letting go of the jeep I returned to stock so I can sell the programmer. All of the issues mentioned above (except for the oil, obviously) magically went away. The tune was the problem, in my case.
Thank you so much for the tips, I used map gas to heat up all but the drivers side bolt. I am glad I did because here in MN bolts rust away fast. I did strip the drivers side bolt but using a punch and hammer I rocked the valve back and forth until it was loose. Similar to what he did in the video by hand
Glad you were able to remove it.
Thanh’s for watching.
Mike
11:00 probably the best tip I saw so far in loosening and gaining a little more access to the back bolt too.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Mike
Great video & info. I was thinking of going this route, but the service info says to remove the intake manifold & dipstick tube, etc. This way is much easier, but was still a challenge due to lack of acessability.
Thank you. Yes, still not the greatest access but much less invasive than pulling the intake.
Glad it was helpful.
Mike
Great tip about turning the EGR counterclockwise to help break the bolt free
Thanks. Just happy to share some tips and tricks that I’ve learned along my journey. Thank you for watching.
Mike
The video was a good resource thank you so much man.
You’re welcome. I’m glad it was helpful.
Mike
Thanks for the tip on the top bolt. Mine did strip out, I got the egr valve to turn and it came right out. So thanks.
+TheOutwiththeold you’re very welcome. Glad this helped you get removed/replaced.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
I stripped that top back 10MM bolt. even turning the EGR counter clockwise. Couldn't get it to budge. :( great video though.
+Duckie Thanks. Sorry to hear you had issues with the top bolt. That is one of the reasons I put this short video together was because I had heard of so many issues with that particular bolt getting the head rounded off.
Mike
Got it off. I took my metal pry bar and positioned it on the top section of the EGR housing and hit it with a hammer counter clockwise. turned it a quarter of the way and the bolt loosened right up. Opening a beer right now.
Good video might have to do it soon on my wrangler. Very well explained 👏 👌
Thank you. Hope it’s helpful.
Mike
Code just popped up. Looks like I got a project now. 132,500 miles starts bringing the pain lol
Just replaced mine today. Thank you for the video
You’re welcome.
Thank you for watching. Glad it was helpful.
Mike
Thank you it I had no idea what I was doing but thanks to you now I do
Glad it was helpful.
Thank you for watching and for the feedback.
Mike
This is an excellent video! Thanks for the tips!
Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Excellent thank you for this time saving video 👊🏻👍🏻
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Mike
Thanks! This is an excellent video.
+TexasAmerican Patriot thank you for the comments. Thanks for tuning in and watching.
Mike
Bandits at the local JEEP dealership wanted $700.00 to do this, $730.00 if the coolant needed replacing. I was waiting for the id10t's to suggest my blinker fluid also needed topping off. :(
I work at a jeep dealer and when took my jeep to you service department and they said the the same. I was thinking as cheap as the part is surely it doesn’t cost that much to install. Then the “master tech” said they will have to take the engine out to replace this??? 😳😳😳 i was thinking no way.. and here he didn’t have to do that at all.
Great video! Help me greatly. Thanks
Thanks for the comments and for watching.
Mike
Love your Silverton Colorado t-shirt! Great video. Trying to determine if I can do this egr valve, unfortunately I'm traveling through Texas right now. (But I live in Grand Junction)
It's not too technical of a task, just nuts & bolts, but a couple are difficult to access.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and for the comments.
Mike
07 JK 2dr 160k Great vid. I used this to change mine a few months ago, but my light is still on, so another symptom I saw was the Cats so I changed them and it is still is on so don't know what else to do. It says open valve circuit.
Check wiring and connections for an open circuit.
Thanks for the video....helped me bug time
You’re welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Mike
Nice video, how long did the whole process of removing and replacing the EGR take?
Thank you. As for time around an hour and a half or so. It’s not yo awfully bad.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
At the beginning of the video, you mentioned testing the connections to see if the EGR valve needs to be replaced. How would I go about doing that? My ‘09 wrangler is throwing the P0404 code but isn’t idling rough, consuming more fuel, or starting hard.
Just check the connections and the wiring into the connections to ensure they are sound. If all looks good then the EGR valve is more than likely the culprit. I’ve had a couple that showed no symptoms other than the code and I had one that had severe idle and running conditions before ever flagging a MIL.
Mike
After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way.
This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence.
The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Use a good worklight for this job.
1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover.
2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work.
3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon.
4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side.
5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket).
6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later).
7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny).
8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me).
9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath).
10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above).
11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough.
12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
I am not sure if you will read this since this video is so old but swapped EGR today and it was rough but got it done. Now should the engine code go off automatically or do I need to clear it and see if it comes back? Thanks for all the help!
If it was a hard code you will need to clear it from the PCM.
After a few starts with the problems corrected the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) should go out but unless you clear the code it will stay in the history.
Thanks my friend good detailed video
Thank you for watching and for the comment. Glad it was helpful.
Mike
Thank you my 11 has been stumbling just turned 90 thousand but wanna say light would start coming on 75.000 miles stopped at local dealerships where I bought it new and was told EGR .... noe light will check engine stays on and it's running rough. How do you get codes or can I do it without tester older MOPAR you could cycle key and count flashes ..,.?.,,,,THANKS FOR VIDEO
Daniel, I have never tried this because I’ve always used my scanner but if memory serves you can turn the key from off to on three times ending with the key on and it will briefly display the code on the dash. Then you can search for information on that particular code to see how to diagnose/troubleshoot.
Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
Mike
If turning the key from off to Acc 3x doesnt work, as it didnt in my 2011, have Autozone test the code and ask for the real error code. I had Pepboys just tell me "excessive gas in the fuel line." I know, mechanics dont think women work on their vehicles!
Great video, thank you so much. Question though, I have a 2007 wrangler limited that the engine light says it is the EGR Valve. Live in Florida. But it is getting worse and it seems like everytime it rains, the next morning when I start the Jeep, it is spitting and sputtering, have to put it in neutral, race up the road, and then it is fine. However while it is spitting and sputtering, there is a very strong gas smell. Now worried about it catching on fire. Is that related to the EGR valve or something else I should have looked at. Have asked several mechanics and they all say not sure.... Thank you for your help.
Usually an EGR valve issue isn’t going to give off a gasoline odor so I would start looking elsewhere for a fuel leak. Jeep JK’s also are notorious fir fuel smell due to the poor design if the ESIM (Evap System Integrity Monitor) which mounts on the charcoal canister. The small shuttle valve inside the ESIM can let fuel odors escape especially freshly after a fill up and/it sitting off camber such as when off-road.
I am having the very same issue. I have it at the shop right now having the EGR replaced. I will let you know!
@@joeykadelsik ... I'm in Florida... Having the same issue... Did the EGR fix you issue?
Just got a P0406 today . My 2008 has 221k on the clock .
I don't have the luxury of having my own garage and I need to get this done for emissions.. how much should/ would this cost at a shop? Thanks great vid.
Hard to say. An EGR valve is around $150-$175 plus a couple hours shop time.
You don’t need the luxury of a garage to do this just a few tools, some basic mechanical knowledge and drive.
Mike
Who's the dipstick that put that dipstick right there? 🙄
Good video. Just changed mine. Pain, but your video helped. Thanks. Check Engine Light is still on right after changing it. Hopefully it will go out on its own or I will just reset it with the scanner tool. With any luck, it will stay out.
Yeah, that dipstick adds a bit of time dealing with but not too awfully bad
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Mike
Great video! I replaced on an 09 and the CEL comes right back. Tried to clear it with snap on and alldata and no dice. The Jeep runs better and the voltage is right so I know connection and part is good. I heard maybe the code is possibly “burned” into the PCM requiring and reflash. Or new PCM entirely. Ever heard of this?
I gave not heard of a code being “burned in” to a PCM or ECM before. If you have power to the EGR and sensor I would also confirm the ground from the PCM directly at the connector.
Mike
Great job
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Mike
Thanks brother
Nice video, well explained, where is the oil sending unit on that 3.8 lt...?
Thanks.
The oil pressure sending unit should be on the passenger side of the engine, just above the oil filter.
Mike
Thanks man you walked me threw it...
should the engine light go off by itself once the new valve is installed? I have the exact same vehicle you are working on. Took it for a regular maintenance and asked them to see why the engine light was on. They said the egr was stuck open. On my way home the light came back on, so I swung by the supply house and picked up an new one.
If the EGR valve is actually stuck open it won’t even idle. All it takes is a small spec of carbon to get lodged in the pintle or seat area and it can cause a rough idle. Many times it is a synchronization between the sensor and valve causing the MIL which result in “EGR insufficient flow” code also
As for your question, the EGR is considered a “hard code” and will need a scan tool to clear.
Mike
Thanks Mike. I went ahead and replaced the EGR, and the pcv valve. Maybe i shouldn't have, but since the EGR had a lot of carbon in it, I stuck the B12 chem-tool nozzle in both ends, where the valve hooked up to, and hosed it out. It did seem to fix the idle, occasional tick, problem, so now I guess I just need to go in and have it put back on the machine to clear the light.
@@zmotorsports62 I have a 2015 wrangler JK sport and it keeps throwing a P0441 code instantly even if I clear with my scanner or disconnect battery the code instantly comes back its like it doesnt even clear. I replaced purge valve, checked for loose evap hoses and everything seemed fine but still the same problem. Any ideas?
Not off the top of my head. Look closely at the lines from the purge valve all the way back to the tank specifically where they run along the frame near the exhaust. I’ve never been impressed with where Chrysler ran these so close to the exhaust.
Mike
Just watched your video and studied it. I have to change mine out on a standard transmission. What was the name of the tool you used last to put the fender back?
I’m not sure what you are referring to. To put the inner fender back in place you need a plastic river gun and the OE style plastic rivets. I hope that’s what you are talking about.
Mike
and that last bolt in the back is a long son of a gun. it's like 30+ turns. It is the longest bolt of the 4, by far. 🙃
Yes it is.
This video was a great help on Monday when I replaced my ERG. However the light came back on last night and I am still getting the same fault. Any idea what it could be?
Check all electrical connections and wiring to ensure nothing is compromised.
Are there specific connections and wiring points associated with the ERG that I should check first before replacing it? Obviously, the connection at the top of the ERG that you plug/unplug to replace it, but beyond that one?
Wes Dingman the wiring, connections and circuit in general should always be checked before merely replacing components, that should be considered during any repair. I’m not saying components don’t go bad but most people want a quick fix and just want to go straight to component replacement. Many times after a repair like that after the part is replaced the same symptom exists but the money has already been spent on the part by this time because due diligence in troubleshooting wasn’t performed.
As for circuit diagnosis I would start at the connector on the actual EGR valve, then verify the wiring integrity focusing on where the harness comes close to either heat, such as near exhaust manifolds/system, or near any potential pinch points.
Best of luck on the repair.
Mike
I have attempted this job on three separate occasions each taking an entire full Saturday and Sunday of my time. I've spent over 150 dollars on different types and sizes of 10 mm wrenches. I even cut a 10 mm 6 pt socket (so as not to strip the bolt) to size, then welded it to a peice of flat steel that I had curved so I could get as much torque on it as I could without the firewall getting in the way. I twisted the EGR valve once I got the lower bolt off.. but the "hidden" bolt I can never get off.
How in the hell does the dealership do this? They must have some special tool..
Its now summer.. I'm thinking the warmer temperatures might give me a better chance.. working out of the garage in the sunlight perhaps I could see more..
This job is a #$%@#$@#%@#%@!
Sorry you’re having such a difficult time of this. Trust me the dealer will charge you much more than the couple of hours by the method I demonstrate and they have no specialty tools other than the ones I show in the video.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Mike Kowalskii I’d love to see that wrench that you made.
Think this could be the problem to my P2173 code? I’ve replaced the TB, MAP sensor, PCV valve and hose, crank and cam position sensors, coil pack and plug wires.
Doubtful. With a P2173 I’d be suspicious if a vacuum leak.
How would you test the wiring first ? Hook a volt meter to the connection clip ?
That is correct. Connect a VOM meter to each of the pins to inspect the circuit's integrity. Then if it checks good change the EGR valve.
My new valve is making a ticking noise on acceleration. 07 Jk, never had that noise till the egr was replaced. Any idea why and how to fix it ?
Hard to tell based off description, but possibly an exhaust leak. That could make a ticking sound.
Hi Mike - Great video....I'm getting a P1404 on my 09 JK. (EGR Position Sensor Rationally closed) I'm assuming this is a different code than a P0404? Should I still change the EGR valve?
It’s hard to say but the position sensor is actually part of the EGR valve. I would double check your electrical connections first same as any other code rather than merely replacing parts. I’ve seen damaged wiring and connectors also cause issues.
Mike
OK, thanks. So I'm assuming the difference in the codes are...P0404 is the EGR Valve replacement code and the P1404 is the EGR Position Sensor code?
Just to clarify, none of them directly say this code equals replace this part. This is a common misconception with all modern ODBII supported vehicles.
The actual way it works is the PCM is monitoring a series of variables at all times. IF the PCM sees something outside a specific parameter it doesn’t necessarily say to replace this component. That is how many parts swappers get into trouble. If a certain series of events takes place it will set a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) that “closest “ matches a particular code.
I hope that makes sense but I have seen people chase their tails because a certain code is set but may have little or nothing to do with the actual component that has failed or mechanical issue that is happening.
It helps to look at see exactly what sets a particular code and then check each item or criteria with actual component replacement being last rather than just start throwing parts at vehicles.
Sorry for the long explanation but I hate to see people just throw parts on vehicles wasting time and money without really understanding what is going on to flag a particular code.
Mike
Yes, thanks Mike. It makes sense. Some of the codes are specific (ie OS sensor & location) and some are vague. Unfortunately this code being the latter of the 2. I'll have to dig deeper and see if there's some logical steps on what to check and in what order for a P1404. I am in no rush to pay $700+ to have someone do this for me. The Forums on this issue are all over the globe. Any links (sites) you can recommend? Thanks again
Unfortunately most of the general Jeep forums have parts changers that will merely throw out comments as to what parts they think you should change with not much consideration to proper troubleshooting.
I prefer to use iATN which is a forum for actual mechanics to have discussions about various issues and work together to solve them. I would start by looking there and see if someone with a similar issue has already requested assistance.
Mike
My 2009 Wrangler X has a two inch body lift. Do you think it might make getting to the EGR valve easier?
Yes, I think it will as the firewall will be further away allowing a little better access to the fasteners.
Best of luck and thanks for watching.
Mike
Great video. I replaced mine and the new one taps at the beat of the idle. Any ideas on why?
No. Never seen that before. Maybe s weak spring in the EGR and it’s moving to the engine firing pulses.
Mike
Turned out silly me I forgot to plug that spark plug wire back on. Once I did that the sound went away. I pulled the wire closest to the valve to make more room.
Oh well, at least you found it.
Mike
That job was a pain in the ass!
They can be. Some that I’ve done haven’t been bad and a few have tested my patience.
I hope the video was somewhat helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
I replaced my egr today on my 2011, all whent well but I can't get the code to erase or go away. I disconnected the battery during the change to help not put any other codes up, and still nothing. Any tips?
When you say erase, are you using a scan tool? You can’t just disconnect the battery on the newer OBDII operating systems. They have to be cleared via a scan tool. If you used a scan tool to clear and it won’t clear there’s another issue, possibly wiring or connector issue.
Hope that helps.
Mike
Thanks sure wish I had a lift
Yeah, a lift makes it easier but I’ve done this without being in the shop on the lift and it’s not too awfully bad.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Is there any value to the Mopar EGR versus an aftermarket one?
I have had similar results between OEM and the NAPA ones. I’ve used the NAPA ones for the past 6 years or so now. They’re a little less expensive and carry a better warranty.
Mike
Thank you! 😁😁
You’re welcome.
I have a question for you I replace my EGR valve on my 07 Jeep Wrangler and it popped out a 304 code now it won't pass emissions open circuit what do I do next?
Code 304 is a misfire on cylinder #4. I don’t see what replacing the EFR would have on a misfire unless maybe a wire or connection was disturbed when changing the EGR.
I found this project to be a PITA once done my gas mileage went up three mile per gallon ,
The job is much easier on a lift vs. working on the ground. I did not notice anything improved fuel economy however.
Thank you for watching.
Mike
What do you mean by - it may be a Sensor issue?? What sensor,and where is it?
The sensor is part of the valve on these so if it’s a valve OR a sensor issue it will require replacement. Wiring or a connector is also what you want to verify is not the issue before just replacing the valve assembly.
What is the distance between the trans tube and the back egr bolt?
It's not much. I haven't ever measured one but I'd say around an inch. The dipstick basically blocks the access to the bolt.
@@zmotorsports62 Thank you sir.
Okay I'm a dumbass it is a po406 gas recirculation sensor A circuit high. Sorry about the miscommunication
how much would it costs to replace an EGR value in a auto shop
I’m not certain. Sorry I can’t help.
Mike
Eddie Ugarte $350-450 at my local dealer,plus Nearly $300 for the OEM MOPAR valve. After market ones last a few months,then you have to go through all that AGAIN!
I got p1404 would you replace the egr?
That is more than likely the culprit because the sensor is sending a signal that the valve isn’t moving. I’ve heard of people freeing a stick valve and will sometimes work and allow the code to be cleared but it varies on how long until it has issues again.
Mike
Thank you
What does yur shop charge for the egr replacement.
+Ahoohi back when I had my business I was charging a couple hours labor plus the part. EGR valve was about $150 and my shop rate was fairly cheap @ $60/hr.
zmotorsports had?
My dealer wanted to charge me 860 dollars to replace the EGR. I told them to stuff it. Doing it myself tomorrow.
Video starts at 9:00
Great video but you need a Mic barely heard you
Thanks for watching. Any of my videos within the last year or so the sound is better as I purchased a mic system. This is a much older video before the lavalier mic.
Mike
Um so a nice prefectly new clean jeep as your example? You couldnt get a real broken in one?. The back hidden bolt is torqued in tight and the little stubby wrench plus pressure on egr is a luck of the draw and a longshot especially if your jeep is over 5 years old and broken in. I hate the emission engineers that design this bs.
While I agree with you on the location and what were the engineers thinking, my Jeep was far from new when my first EGR valve went bad. I had to replace two EGR valves in the 92k miles that engine had on it over the 8 years with that engine. One if the things I like about my new V8 engine is......no EGR valve.
I’ve changed EGR valves on about 8 JK’s now with all ranges of miles and so far rotating the EGR valve with a wrench on it has worked on all but one and that one came to me with a rounded off bolt head because the owner attempted it first. That one was a real PITA but I was able to remove it.
Thanks for watching, sorry it wasn’t more help.
Mike
Someone told me I had to pay $600+ for labor because the entire engine had to come out to fix this.. .
No need to pull the engine to replace the EGR valve. I haven't heard that one yet.🤔 And I would charge more than $600 to pull and reinstall the engine.
@@zmotorsports62 it sounded farfetched. I sales cars at a Chrysler dealer. I went str8 to the service department soon as the light came on today and the “master tech” said this isn’t good. The engine has to come out to replace. I I felt that was kinda crazy. Also I was Just not comfortable having my engine taken out over a part that seems so simple. I knew it was a simpler solution. Thanks for the video I’m sure I couldn’t do this on my own but atleast I know there a better way.
Yeah, I've done several of these now and can't even imagine telling someone the engine has too come out to replace an EGR valve. I'd lose all credibility if I told someone that.
ohhh...the bulbous backside...
audio is terrible !
Audio was terrible. Maybe invest in a wireless mic. It would help with understanding.
Thanks. This is an old video. I’ve purchased a wireless lavalier since this video was made.
Mike