Turns out that Kodak TMax P3200 isn’t exactly a 3200 ISO film. TMax P3200 is an ISO 800 film, designed to be pushed to 3200 or higher ISOs. In fact, the "P" in the P3200 name stands for "push". It's designed to be pushed while maintaining a decent fine-grain. Kodak specs this film to be pushed as far as 25,600 ISO but I would never. Great Review, BTW. I enjoyed watching.
When p3200 was re-introduced, I read in the datasheet that Kodak gave development times to pull to 400iso - to give what they called "extremely good shadow detail". Ive been meaning to give that a try and see how it goes compared to Tmax 400 or Tri-X! Great video!
I am so so thankful to have discovered your channel through your super 8 film videos, since im just starting to get into that part of the analog format. Been shooting 35mm and 120 film for a while now so it always feels good to find something/someone on the internet that shares the same passion.
I love your videos. You’re very down to earth and right to the point without all of that corny music and how great I art videos, keep up the good work, I appreciate it.
I have shot a dozen or so rolls of this, almost entirely at night. I always rate at 3200, but I meter for the shadows, and I just find it gives me more flexibility and lets me decide per the situation instead of over-exposing as a rule. Some dynamic scenes work if you just say bye-bye to the shadows, it can help to isolate things which is part of the mood of night-time shots I say metering for the shadows because it makes me feel like a real photographman, but really I just aim my camera or light meter away from the light source for the reading, or on a camera with spot mode, I'll just tap it once to see what it says as long as I'm not aiming directly at the light source. And in daylight I aim away from the sky for my reading.
I love this film so much! i often find my self shooting in the underground stations of the subway or in the subway it self and for this situation this film is perfekt when you want black and withe.
I find low-light interior shots to be very muddy and low contrast, even with strong directional light. I have the same issue with Ilford Delta 3200 and the grain is even bigger. I wonder if developing in Rodinal 1+100 would help getting better acutance and contrast? Have you tried other high speed films like Tasma Aerial Type 42L (sold in France under the brand marinette 1600) ? I really find these high speed films fascinating. They open a whole world of possibilities.
I've been eyeing this film for a while, but I wonder what the advantage of this film is. If I want to shoot it at 1600 or 800 anyway, why don't I save some money on the rolls and just buy hp5 instead and push that film to the same values? I was thinking you'd get a thicker neg with the 3200 overexposed and still developed at 3200, but I've been really happy with the hp5 I've done at 800 or 1600 anyway. I might still give this a shot. I'm just a little unsure. Love the shots in the bar actually. I keep a little pocket tripod with me for occasions like that since I can't nail the depth of focus like you
I love to shoot it at 1600 iso. I developed it in D-76 1+1, and what developer did you use? I also shot two rolls at 3200, Dev in rodinal, but the grain was very very noticeable. And a quick fact. The P in P3200 stands for pushed, the base iso is 800. Pushed to 3200, so you are overexposing it one stop at 1600.
The lab I use develops their Black and White using Kodak T-Max Developer! Maybe in the future when I have the setup to showcase home development I can delve into different developers with different films!
I really wish this was available in 120. I prefer the look of Kodak P3200 to Ilford's Delta 3200. Shooting either at 800 or 1600 and developing for the next highest ISO looks great.
Hey, Can I shoot this at 1600 iso and just process it normally rather than push processing? And what difference would it make wrt to the images? Thanks
I tried this film twice a few years ago, I pushed by one full stop usind xtol as a developer and I find the picture in fiber base gelatin paper quite dirty. I really don't like the results. I preffer Tmax or even agfa ctx 400, when pushed it's a different look. In low light conditions I preffer to use digital, I love film photography, but unless I've shooting with a Leica, my first option will be digital thou.
What about a chromogenic black and white? I found a few rolls of Kodak BW400CN that I shot but never developed. I know this particular stock has been discontinued, but Ilford still makes something similar. These are weird films, so something interesting.
@@ArthurSadowsky I ended up developing mine, and it's very clean, so I can see how you'd describe it as "digital looking". I don't think it's the black and white film for me, though.
@@AnalogResurgence thanks I think im your youngest fan and film Photographer. Age 14 shooting 35mm film on a Canon Elan 7e and Canon sureShot TeleMax Date
Hey Noah! Thanks for doing these roll reviews! I've already shot a roll of P3200, still need to develop it though. :) Reviewing Lomography color 400 ( maybe versus Superia 400) , or Ektachrome ( especially the 120 format if it comes out) would be cool.
Hey I have a quick question if you don't mind. When you're discussing shooting the film at different speed on the ISO dial compared to the box speed of the film. Is that in any way different from using the plus one or plus two compensation dial? Because either way all you're doing is tricking the camera meter. But I never see anyone mention the compensation dial. It's always setting the ISO incorrectly. Thanks
Using a compensation dial will accomplish the same thing! I think it comes down to not all cameras having a compensation dial or people just not being aware of how to use it exactly.
It’s a very big misconception this is 3200 iso. It’s not. It’s around 800-1000 It’s called p3200 because you can push it to 3200, that isn’t it’s iso speed. The p means pushed You can rate it near 800 or 6400. If you shoot in daylight, rate near 800 and use a yellow filter or something
Can I be a bit of a know it all and say that it is actually ISO 1000. P3200 stands for that fact that is can be pushed to 3200, see the P=pushed. I was confused about it to for a while. I thought it was iso 3200, but someone soon corrected me.
!["สนธิ" ห่วงมีขบวนการปกป้อง "ทนายตั้ม" : [THE MESSAGE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2GQNp3EoMc0/mqdefault.jpg)
Turns out that Kodak TMax P3200 isn’t exactly a 3200 ISO film. TMax P3200 is an ISO 800 film, designed to be pushed to 3200 or higher ISOs. In fact, the "P" in the P3200 name stands for "push". It's designed to be pushed while maintaining a decent fine-grain. Kodak specs this film to be pushed as far as 25,600 ISO but I would never. Great Review, BTW. I enjoyed watching.
When p3200 was re-introduced, I read in the datasheet that Kodak gave development times to pull to 400iso - to give what they called "extremely good shadow detail". Ive been meaning to give that a try and see how it goes compared to Tmax 400 or Tri-X!
Great video!
I am so so thankful to have discovered your channel through your super 8 film videos, since im just starting to get into that part of the analog format. Been shooting 35mm and 120 film for a while now so it always feels good to find something/someone on the internet that shares the same passion.
Very interesting and helpful. I like the video, and specially the setup you have on your desk, with the camera and the film you use.
I love your videos. You’re very down to earth and right to the point without all of that corny music and how great I art videos, keep up the good work, I appreciate it.
I love stuff like this roll review, its what i need in life.
I have shot a dozen or so rolls of this, almost entirely at night. I always rate at 3200, but I meter for the shadows, and I just find it gives me more flexibility and lets me decide per the situation instead of over-exposing as a rule. Some dynamic scenes work if you just say bye-bye to the shadows, it can help to isolate things which is part of the mood of night-time shots
I say metering for the shadows because it makes me feel like a real photographman, but really I just aim my camera or light meter away from the light source for the reading, or on a camera with spot mode, I'll just tap it once to see what it says as long as I'm not aiming directly at the light source. And in daylight I aim away from the sky for my reading.
I love this film so much! i often find my self shooting in the underground stations of the subway or in the subway it self and for this situation this film is perfekt when you want black and withe.
Anyone else watching while developing film?
Yup!
@@NobeGamingOfficial nice
It’s native iso is 800, This film is designed to be pushed to 3200. Same Thing with ilford delta 3200, but native iso is 1000 there
Thank you for saying this. Everyone says it’s 3200 iso 🤦♀️
Some very nice street shots here!
You should review fp4 and Bergger Pancro 400 my favourite black and white films :)
I find low-light interior shots to be very muddy and low contrast, even with strong directional light. I have the same issue with Ilford Delta 3200 and the grain is even bigger. I wonder if developing in Rodinal 1+100 would help getting better acutance and contrast?
Have you tried other high speed films like Tasma Aerial Type 42L (sold in France under the brand marinette 1600) ?
I really find these high speed films fascinating. They open a whole world of possibilities.
I've been eyeing this film for a while, but I wonder what the advantage of this film is. If I want to shoot it at 1600 or 800 anyway, why don't I save some money on the rolls and just buy hp5 instead and push that film to the same values?
I was thinking you'd get a thicker neg with the 3200 overexposed and still developed at 3200, but I've been really happy with the hp5 I've done at 800 or 1600 anyway.
I might still give this a shot. I'm just a little unsure.
Love the shots in the bar actually. I keep a little pocket tripod with me for occasions like that since I can't nail the depth of focus like you
I love to shoot it at 1600 iso. I developed it in D-76 1+1, and what developer did you use?
I also shot two rolls at 3200, Dev in rodinal, but the grain was very very noticeable.
And a quick fact.
The P in P3200 stands for pushed, the base iso is 800. Pushed to 3200, so you are overexposing it one stop at 1600.
The lab I use develops their Black and White using Kodak T-Max Developer! Maybe in the future when I have the setup to showcase home development I can delve into different developers with different films!
Great review - Thanks for the tip on rating it at 1600!
I really wish this was available in 120. I prefer the look of Kodak P3200 to Ilford's Delta 3200. Shooting either at 800 or 1600 and developing for the next highest ISO looks great.
why do you prefer P3200 to Ilford's Delta 3200?
Great review! Did you expose those daylight pictures at 1600 iso as well?
Yup! I set my camera’s meter for 1600 and shot the whole roll using those settings.
@@AnalogResurgence Great review! Did you develop it as the iSO 1600 film as well?
Better to shoot in day near 800 iso and use a yellow filter or something to push contrast
Hey,
Can I shoot this at 1600 iso and just process it normally rather than push processing?
And what difference would it make wrt to the images?
Thanks
I tried this film twice a few years ago, I pushed by one full stop usind xtol as a developer and I find the picture in fiber base gelatin paper quite dirty. I really don't like the results. I preffer Tmax or even agfa ctx 400, when pushed it's a different look. In low light conditions I preffer to use digital, I love film photography, but unless I've shooting with a Leica, my first option will be digital thou.
What about a chromogenic black and white? I found a few rolls of Kodak BW400CN that I shot but never developed. I know this particular stock has been discontinued, but Ilford still makes something similar. These are weird films, so something interesting.
Kodak BW400CN is a fantastic (C-41) film. It was my go-to film for many years. BTW, it has a very "digital" look to it. I hope it helps...
@@ArthurSadowsky I ended up developing mine, and it's very clean, so I can see how you'd describe it as "digital looking". I don't think it's the black and white film for me, though.
I miss 400CN so bad! Need to try some Ilford XP2 again, I used that in high school photography class in the 90's.
Can you do a review of 400 speed black and white films?
Absolutely!
@@AnalogResurgence thanks I think im your youngest fan and film Photographer. Age 14 shooting 35mm film on a Canon Elan 7e and Canon sureShot TeleMax Date
Are you gonna be checking out the Polaroid beta film?
Very good, i learned a lot about monochrome shooting ^^
Hey Noah! Thanks for doing these roll reviews! I've already shot a roll of P3200, still need to develop it though. :)
Reviewing Lomography color 400 ( maybe versus Superia 400) , or Ektachrome ( especially the 120 format if it comes out) would be cool.
If I shoot at 800 or 1600 what do I tell the lab to process it at ?
Hey I have a quick question if you don't mind. When you're discussing shooting the film at different speed on the ISO dial compared to the box speed of the film. Is that in any way different from using the plus one or plus two compensation dial? Because either way all you're doing is tricking the camera meter. But I never see anyone mention the compensation dial. It's always setting the ISO incorrectly. Thanks
Using a compensation dial will accomplish the same thing! I think it comes down to not all cameras having a compensation dial or people just not being aware of how to use it exactly.
@@AnalogResurgence that's what I figured. Thanks. I know I've had to use mine too overexposed by one to two stops if shooting in bright snow and sun
Do a test of Ultramax 400!
Perhapa a review of a high ISO color film?
It’s a very big misconception this is 3200 iso. It’s not. It’s around 800-1000
It’s called p3200 because you can push it to 3200, that isn’t it’s iso speed. The p means pushed
You can rate it near 800 or 6400. If you shoot in daylight, rate near 800 and use a yellow filter or something
Can I be a bit of a know it all and say that it is actually ISO 1000. P3200 stands for that fact that is can be pushed to 3200, see the P=pushed. I was confused about it to for a while. I thought it was iso 3200, but someone soon corrected me.
And yet we still don't have it in medium format... Delta 3200 forever!