The witness line on the end hole... this is the kind of thing that old professionals know. Best practices... lovely to see such smarts. thanks for passing on so much knowledge. Just seeing the logical thought process... it's a very positive influence.
Thanx Keith. - You have renewed a 30 year burning desire to get a Marvel saw. - You just can't beat them. I'd dump our Powermatic vertical AND the Kalamazoo Horizontal in a heart beat if I cold find a Marvel that I cold get for less then the national debt. Hey, an idea I totally subscribe to. How 'bout either full flood, or mist on the Marvel. - We Quadrupled plus the blade life on the horizontal by putting water on it. ,,,, and we cut mostly 4140 and 4140 pre-hard on it. - With the cost of the blades on that big Marvel of yours a water system would pay for itself in no time. - Especially of you are going to cut a lot of the "big stuff like you did here.
These are the blanks, which will be heated until nearly butter soft, so I think once it has been opened up by the blacksmith it will have a bit of a relief just from being formed.
It's alarming just how much the band-sawed steel curved away from the cut. Very instructive. I hope your North Pole Express can proceed without disappointments. Kudos for your (collective) efforts to make this repair.
It is simple to cut bevels and miters on a Marvel bandsaw. The blade tilts 45 degrees in either direction. If you look at the off side of the vise on the Marvel, you would notice that the vise is cut away at 45 for that reason. No wood jigs are required. I have done it many times.
My father was an apprentice at Dennis brothers, in Guildford, Uk, they had a new reciprocating compressor to install. It was duly bolted to the motor base plate and run up. After a day it broke all the mounting bolts. So the supervisor got the lads to get some high tensile bolts from the stores. It broke the bolts after a few hours. The store keeper heard about the problem and came round armed with a huge chunk of wrought iron that had lain in the back since Noah left the ark, they turned up some studs and re fixed the compressor. It held perfectly for the duration of the war.
Yay for Linn Moedinger! I daresay there wouldn't be much of working steam locomotives anymore if it weren't for Linn and his determination to save them. Glad they were able to get blueprints for you. I learned something new today. I went looking for more info on your locomotive and to my surprise, they were built in PA. I knew about Baldwin, but I didn't know there was another PA steam locomotive manufacturer.
I'm really surprised you didn't drill a hole to terminate that long slit. Doesn't this sharp cut create a stress point where the two sides are split? That Marvel saw is a freakin' marvel for sure!
hi Keith did.nt hear any mention of a bending allowance for the bottom hole to being the correct position its in the machinery handbook plus a small hole could have been drilled at the end of the split may of helped relieve stress on the split ?
Keith, knowing your penchant for woodworking, my dad was employed years ago with an architectural door manufacturer, and related to your cutting the steel and observing it spread at the bottom, the species of wood that the doors were made from were in many cases exotic. When he would rip walnut, it would often either split like the steel, or close at the bottom.
Looking at the spreading of the steel while sawing, I am led to believe that the heating at the saw cut causes expansion of the workpiece and makes it curl away from the kerf. I wonder if the workpiece would straighten out when the kerf area cools and shrinks? Wood spreads away from the kerf due to stress relief. Keith, thanks for showing your process.
@@tpobrienjrI think the spreading was caused by internal stresses in the steel, caused by the forging process , for example because the outside cooled faster than the inside or the structure of the outer layers of the steel bar has been compacted because of forging
Keith, After reading the comments and reviewing the video I am not sure that the way you are fabricating the fork is going to provide the best solution. It will work, but for how long? Perhaps a simpler method will provide a better solution. I think it would be easier to make the fork out of two pieces of steel. The first piece would be a single flat bar bent in a "U" to form the tines. The second piece would be a single flat bar to form the "stem". You could then weld the two pieces together using a full penetration weld. I think this would better duplicate the wrought iron fork using mild steel. Bob
Keith, after reading all the comments I see all the Monday morning quarterbacks chiming in on the process. I think I’ll keep my opinions to myself and see how it works out. Sure would like to see the blacksmith in action though.
Keith, about the only weld that would work for wrought iron might be thermite welding, such as is used on the rails. The recipe is available online, and is very simple. I do believe that you are on the right direction with the blacksmith.
Keith, Isn't the end of that long slit a dangerous stress riser? I fear that hairline cracks will appear in the material if it is bent 45 degrees or so.
I agree, the end of tje band saw cut is a stress riser. I would suggest laying a fillet weld in the end of the cut after forming is complete, followed by normalizing to remove residual weld stresses.
Once it is spread opened and forged flat it won't be a problem. The steel will be red hot and normalized into its new position. In its current state yes you are right.
@@TgWags69 Thanks for mentioning the fact that it's going to be forged- e.g., taken to red hot many times. I didn't consider this when I commented on the stress riser, but now that I read your comment I think you're quite right. Good thoughts!
Fascinating to see how plans are made for keeping those old locomotives going. Forging seems much more artistic than technical to my mind, compared to others fabrication techniques. The idea of bending and stretching that steel to the proper opening, with a hammer and heat, and then poking holes through it, is amazing.
We have had good luck welding wrought iron, and also ductile iron using ER309 mig wire. It needs a lot of preheat and postheat (6 to 700 degrees), and heavy peening between passes,
Hello, I’m a Journeyman Machine Repairman by trade, As I watched you operate your Radial Arm Drill press, Unless your video is backwards, you have the 3 phase motor running in reverse. Your down feed wheel and your forward and reverse lever is operating backwards, You should turn everything clockwise to feed out and counter clockwise to retract.
Great stuff Keith as always, thank you ! It's a shame if you won't be able to get the blacksmithery on camera. I would ask your fellow volunteers, do they know if any of their children or grandchildren who would want to have a crack at making a video of something like this ? playing around on a computer and video editing - being a video producer ? I am so much in favour of your work on this - until recently I was able to volunteer at my local (Sussex, UK) railway preservation - The Bluebell Railway. The look on the faces of the 3, 4, 5-year-olds when Thomas The Tank Engine came in to the station ! Absolutely magical !
Amazing bandsaw cutting and VERY considerate of your blacksmith. Could you have used the first triangular piece removed from the "sandwich anvil" to clamp in the vise for making the second cut rather than using something round?
Great bandsaw blades pay for themselves in the reduced cut time and the reduction of time required to straighten crooked cuts! You obviously have a source for great blades. Terrific example of thoughtful planning and skillful execution. The time that you have saved in the making of new “hangers “ really decreases the man hours beating on really hot metal. Is normalizing and tempering needed after hot shaping? Enjoyed the video Keith
Keith, I'm thinking that there might have been two items that could have been done differently. For strength, the upper slot could be drifted in so the grain flows around the slot. Second, maybe some provision could have been made in the wedge to fit it in the hardy hole. Probably, this would involve a plate to sit flat on the anvil and allow the wedge to be clamped down.
I wasn't interested in the machining operations, but was very taken with the explanation so watched only up to about 8:30 min. I wonder whether the original wrought iron clevis was made as stated. I have not worked with wrought iron myself (as it's hard to come by), but have read a great deal about it. I rather suspect the clevis may have been made by folding one long piece and welding the upper section together so as not to interrupt the "grain" of the wrought iron. The the slot at the top and the holes at the bottom likely would have been made by slitting and drifting, rather than the slightly different procedure of punching, again preserving the grain of the metal as much as possible. This is all hypothetical, and is irrelevant to best procedures when working with modern steel.
Keith, excellent work as always! I was a bit curious about the cut on the DoAll. Blade guides seemed a bit high up. Any particular reason? Regards, Eric
Doesn't make a difference, at all as there I'd so much stress in all directions. Long cuts like that just show how much stress the production processes put into the steel. Once it's red hot with forging any stress is relieved and the forging process rounds the corner off anyway.
I don't believe the worry is if it cracks while forging, but how long it will take to fatigue crack once it is put into service? When the tines are opened there will be two sharp points left from the saw kerf. These points become stress risers from which fatigue cracks will propagate. Originally the fork was made of two pieces that were forge-welded together. This provided a soft radius at the point of separation of the two tines. To better duplicate the original configuration a drilled hole at the end of the saw kerf will eliminate the sharp points left by the blade and will provide a smaller chance of creating stress risers. This is why you drill cracks to stop further propagation.
@@robertlevine2152 when the blacksmith opens the tines up its automaticly going to put a radius in that corner that's the same as the radius on the forging template/form tool Keith made. 1 hammer blow sending it home is going to be enough to form that corner and remove those bandsaw blade edges.
@@samuraidriver4x4 Or, when the blows are struck the tines separate from the corners, like a wishbone and cracking is started. By the time the blacksmith finishes you may have micro cracks in the material. After giving this some thought I would fabricate the fork using 3 or 4 pieces of steel bar. The 3 piece would consist of a stem and two lines. The 4 piece would have a flat bar between the tines and stem. You need to look no further than the front fork on a bicycle for inspiration.
@@robertlevine2152 micro cracks are not happen when the steel is nice and hot when forging it. It's an issue when cold forming steel, not when hot forming it. Alot of parts of the locomotive are hand forged using cold chisels to create cuts in to wrought iron and it's around 100 years old. Maybe look into metallurgy and blacksmithing some more, we are not talking about blades of a jet engine.
Are you going to weld on some tangs to fit in a vice or square stock to fit a hardy hole? Trying to forge them peices around a loose floppy die with red hot steel is a royal pain!
Would it be possible to make a large polyurethane bump stop. Like a couple 6" hollow cubes. with a few 1/4" holes in the middle. To take some of the shock from the springs . Kind of putting the poly between the spring and hangers. I don't think its the weight breaking things, i think its a combination of weight and harmonics.
Do you ever redesign a part, due to the advances in material or machining methods, which would be an improvement on the original, or do you try and stay true to the original.
As a blacksmith, don't scrap the old spring hanger. As they haven't made wrought iron in many decades, pas it off to a local blacksmith, who could repurposed the material into other things. Wrought iron has a grain structure similar to wood, so a weld repair would understandable not hold(even gluing the end grain of wood is very weak.) If you really wanted to preserve the material, there are some blackmiths with big enough forged that they could take the broken part, forge weld a new billet out of the broken parts, then reforge a new part from the material. If I were to be reproducing the originals with wrought iron, the bulge just above the fork would be a collar with a horizontal grain forge welded around the vertical grain fork, reinforcing it against splitting.
12:20 the material is seperating, because it is cold rolled steel. It has mor stress/tension on the outside of the material. I would not have chosen this material for this application 😊
Was a great video.....with your connections I am surprised that you didn't solicit someone or company to donate use of an industrial laser to cut the parts out of solid steel. I would be cautious of thinning those 5/8 legs at the split point then widening the split during hand forging plus the singular stress point at the split might act identical to a 90 degree corner and would need to be radiused to lessen the possibility of fracturing at the corner......I would think the safe and sure way would have been laser cut the shape from solid.........just saying
Unexpected! Merlin! Radial drill! Forge on the horizon!!! It's most fortunate that your Health-O-Meter is on the plus side of the scale now, because you would have forced yourself to do it while sick and have been miserable. I would make up things to build just to use those machines all day.
how will he hold that block? I would have left it longer and made a leg for a hardy hole. That way it could be held on the anvil. Did you allow enough room in length for the metal to follow the curves. I don't remember. I think you just measure the height down the middle for the hanger, not the actual length of the hanger ears.
Drawing out metal is far better than cutting it away. By drawing it the iron gets denser and thus stronger. Of course without a power hammer it takes a lot of elbow grease.
Wrought iron is easy to weld and is nothing like cast iron with hich carbon content. According to Bob Bergman of Postville Blacksmith, who regularly works with true wrought iron, wrought’s low carbon content makes it easy to weld. “Wrought can stand tremendous heat and is more forgiving,” says Bergman. “It is better structurally for old time blacksmithing.”
The witness line on the end hole... this is the kind of thing that old professionals know. Best practices... lovely to see such smarts.
thanks for passing on so much knowledge. Just seeing the logical thought process... it's a very positive influence.
At 16:29 - Keith has created giant tuning forks!
I’d like to hear that!
Great job, Keith! Ya made me spit out my morning coffee with that "...ya think it was a Taylor Swift concert..." comment! 🤣🤣🤣😎👍
Thanx Keith. - You have renewed a 30 year burning desire to get a Marvel saw. - You just can't beat them. I'd dump our Powermatic vertical AND the Kalamazoo Horizontal in a heart beat if I cold find a Marvel that I cold get for less then the national debt.
Hey, an idea I totally subscribe to. How 'bout either full flood, or mist on the Marvel. - We Quadrupled plus the blade life on the horizontal by putting water on it. ,,,, and we cut mostly 4140 and 4140 pre-hard on it. - With the cost of the blades on that big Marvel of yours a water system would pay for itself in no time. - Especially of you are going to cut a lot of the "big stuff like you did here.
I was hoping to see the blacksmith video; I understand the concepts and techniques, but still fun to see!
Be sure to mill a radius on the top of the legs to eliminate the stress concentration where you cut the pieces off.
These are the blanks, which will be heated until nearly butter soft, so I think once it has been opened up by the blacksmith it will have a bit of a relief just from being formed.
It's alarming just how much the band-sawed steel curved away from the cut. Very instructive. I hope your North Pole Express can proceed without disappointments. Kudos for your (collective) efforts to make this repair.
Cold rolled steel has a lot of stress in it .
@@emilgabor88 also a long, thin piece it's the worst case. Still interesting to see.
There is the proof positive the reason to stress relieve before machining.
It is simple to cut bevels and miters on a Marvel bandsaw. The blade tilts 45 degrees in either direction. If you look at the off side of the vise on the Marvel, you would notice that the vise is cut away at 45 for that reason. No wood jigs are required. I have done it many times.
Oops. Shouda read before posting. Yup. Mine tilts just fine
My father was an apprentice at Dennis brothers, in Guildford, Uk, they had a new reciprocating compressor to install. It was duly bolted to the motor base plate and run up. After a day it broke all the mounting bolts. So the supervisor got the lads to get some high tensile bolts from the stores. It broke the bolts after a few hours. The store keeper heard about the problem and came round armed with a huge chunk of wrought iron that had lain in the back since Noah left the ark, they turned up some studs and re fixed the compressor. It held perfectly for the duration of the war.
Several god tricks used. Great tips. The dimensions of the spring holder looks surpricingly tiny but obviously it has worked well for a long time.
It would be great to see the forging video .
Looking forward for you to get your forge going, that's exciting.
Thank you for your videos
Yay for Linn Moedinger! I daresay there wouldn't be much of working steam locomotives anymore if it weren't for Linn and his determination to save them. Glad they were able to get blueprints for you. I learned something new today. I went looking for more info on your locomotive and to my surprise, they were built in PA. I knew about Baldwin, but I didn't know there was another PA steam locomotive manufacturer.
I'm really surprised you didn't drill a hole to terminate that long slit. Doesn't this sharp cut create a stress point where the two sides are split? That Marvel saw is a freakin' marvel for sure!
hi Keith did.nt hear any mention of a bending allowance for the bottom hole to being the correct position its in the machinery handbook plus a small hole could have been drilled at the end of the split may of helped relieve stress on the split ?
Fantastic! Great plan. Thanks for sharing.
Keith, knowing your penchant for woodworking, my dad was employed years ago with an architectural door manufacturer, and related to your cutting the steel and observing it spread at the bottom, the species of wood that the doors were made from were in many cases exotic. When he would rip walnut, it would often either split like the steel, or close at the bottom.
Looking at the spreading of the steel while sawing, I am led to believe that the heating at the saw cut causes expansion of the workpiece and makes it curl away from the kerf. I wonder if the workpiece would straighten out when the kerf area cools and shrinks? Wood spreads away from the kerf due to stress relief. Keith, thanks for showing your process.
@@tpobrienjrI think the spreading was caused by internal stresses in the steel, caused by the forging process , for example because the outside cooled faster than the inside or the structure of the outer layers of the steel bar has been compacted because of forging
Nice work as usual, yes as soon as I heard the fist 1 1/16 drill I said Keith won’t drill with that.
Thanks for another great video 👍
Keith,
After reading the comments and reviewing the video I am not sure that the way you are fabricating the fork is going to provide the best solution. It will work, but for how long?
Perhaps a simpler method will provide a better solution. I think it would be easier to make the fork out of two pieces of steel. The first piece would be a single flat bar bent in a "U" to form the tines. The second piece would be a single flat bar to form the "stem". You could then weld the two pieces together using a full penetration weld.
I think this would better duplicate the wrought iron fork using mild steel.
Bob
Keith, after reading all the comments I see all the Monday morning quarterbacks chiming in on the process. I think I’ll keep my opinions to myself and see how it works out. Sure would like to see the blacksmith in action though.
Keith, about the only weld that would work for wrought iron might be thermite welding, such as is used on the rails. The recipe is available online, and is very simple. I do believe that you are on the right direction with the blacksmith.
Keith,
Isn't the end of that long slit a dangerous stress riser? I fear that hairline cracks will appear in the material if it is bent 45 degrees or so.
I agree, the end of tje band saw cut is a stress riser. I would suggest laying a fillet weld in the end of the cut after forming is complete, followed by normalizing to remove residual weld stresses.
Once it is spread opened and forged flat it won't be a problem. The steel will be red hot and normalized into its new position. In its current state yes you are right.
@@TgWags69 Thanks for mentioning the fact that it's going to be forged- e.g., taken to red hot many times. I didn't consider this when I commented on the stress riser, but now that I read your comment I think you're quite right. Good thoughts!
Used that same saw for many years we used swamp cooler pump worked very well to pump coolant
Fascinating to see how plans are made for keeping those old locomotives going. Forging seems much more artistic than technical to my mind, compared to others fabrication techniques. The idea of bending and stretching that steel to the proper opening, with a hammer and heat, and then poking holes through it, is amazing.
Why no tip saw. My marvel does 45 no issue.
Nice Video, very instructional. If you're planning to 'christen' your rebuilt forge perhaps you could get Gregg the blacksmith to help out with that.
Good morning Keith. Thanks for the video.
We have had good luck welding wrought iron, and also ductile iron using ER309 mig wire. It needs a lot of preheat and postheat (6 to 700 degrees), and heavy peening between passes,
Hello, I’m a Journeyman Machine Repairman by trade, As I watched you operate your Radial Arm Drill press, Unless your video is backwards, you have the 3 phase motor running in reverse. Your down feed wheel and your forward and reverse lever is operating backwards, You should turn everything clockwise to feed out and counter clockwise to retract.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Great stuff Keith as always, thank you ! It's a shame if you won't be able to get the blacksmithery on camera. I would ask your fellow volunteers, do they know if any of their children or grandchildren who would want to have a crack at making a video of something like this ? playing around on a computer and video editing - being a video producer ?
I am so much in favour of your work on this - until recently I was able to volunteer at my local (Sussex, UK) railway preservation - The Bluebell Railway. The look on the faces of the 3, 4, 5-year-olds when Thomas The Tank Engine came in to the station ! Absolutely magical !
This channel is great and very educational. Keep them coming Keith.
very informative
Fabulous work and info as always Keith! Merry Christmas!
It would be interesting to see the effort of the blacksmith on this part.
Thanks Keith.
If only you had access to a REALLY HUGE wood cutting bandsaw similar in vintage to the locomotive...
Keith nice job. Any chance of getting a video of the forging of those Spring Hangers?
At 31:40 says he can't be around for the forging.
@@kindabluejazz Thank you for pointing that out, I should've listened to the whole end before commenting.
it amazes me that most of the parts for early engines were beaten from iron with nothing more than the skill of a blacksmith
Amazing bandsaw cutting and VERY considerate of your blacksmith. Could you have used the first triangular piece removed from the "sandwich anvil" to clamp in the vise for making the second cut rather than using something round?
Great bandsaw blades pay for themselves in the reduced cut time and the reduction of time required to straighten crooked cuts! You obviously have a source for great blades. Terrific example of thoughtful planning and skillful execution. The time that you have saved in the making of new “hangers “ really decreases the man hours beating on really hot metal. Is normalizing and tempering needed after hot shaping? Enjoyed the video Keith
I'm surprised you didn't drill a stress relief hole where the two legs of the spring hanger come together.
Keith, I'm thinking that there might have been two items that could have been done differently. For strength, the upper slot could be drifted in so the grain flows around the slot. Second, maybe some provision could have been made in the wedge to fit it in the hardy hole. Probably, this would involve a plate to sit flat on the anvil and allow the wedge to be clamped down.
amazed the Marvel's blade survived. Impressive saw
Just a thought, Do you think a pin on the bottom of that to fit into the harty hole would help the blacksmith
Keith..... Why don't you just go to Schwinn, and get a couple of bicycle forks ??? LOL
I wasn't interested in the machining operations, but was very taken with the explanation so watched only up to about 8:30 min.
I wonder whether the original wrought iron clevis was made as stated. I have not worked with wrought iron myself (as it's hard to come by), but have read a great deal about it. I rather suspect the clevis may have been made by folding one long piece and welding the upper section together so as not to interrupt the "grain" of the wrought iron.
The the slot at the top and the holes at the bottom likely would have been made by slitting and drifting, rather than the slightly different procedure of punching, again preserving the grain of the metal as much as possible.
This is all hypothetical, and is irrelevant to best procedures when working with modern steel.
Keith, excellent work as always! I was a bit curious about the cut on the DoAll. Blade guides seemed a bit high up. Any particular reason?
Regards,
Eric
Does the blacksmith have a channel? Will we see see the finished pieces?
Hi, should we drill a hole at the end of the cut to stress relieve it before the cut was made?
Doesn't make a difference, at all as there I'd so much stress in all directions.
Long cuts like that just show how much stress the production processes put into the steel.
Once it's red hot with forging any stress is relieved and the forging process rounds the corner off anyway.
I don't believe the worry is if it cracks while forging, but how long it will take to fatigue crack once it is put into service?
When the tines are opened there will be two sharp points left from the saw kerf. These points become stress risers from which fatigue cracks will propagate.
Originally the fork was made of two pieces that were forge-welded together. This provided a soft radius at the point of separation of the two tines. To better duplicate the original configuration a drilled hole at the end of the saw kerf will eliminate the sharp points left by the blade and will provide a smaller chance of creating stress risers. This is why you drill cracks to stop further propagation.
@@robertlevine2152 when the blacksmith opens the tines up its automaticly going to put a radius in that corner that's the same as the radius on the forging template/form tool Keith made.
1 hammer blow sending it home is going to be enough to form that corner and remove those bandsaw blade edges.
@@samuraidriver4x4 Or, when the blows are struck the tines separate from the corners, like a wishbone and cracking is started. By the time the blacksmith finishes you may have micro cracks in the material.
After giving this some thought I would fabricate the fork using 3 or 4 pieces of steel bar. The 3 piece would consist of a stem and two lines. The 4 piece would have a flat bar between the tines and stem. You need to look no further than the front fork on a bicycle for inspiration.
@@robertlevine2152 micro cracks are not happen when the steel is nice and hot when forging it.
It's an issue when cold forming steel, not when hot forming it.
Alot of parts of the locomotive are hand forged using cold chisels to create cuts in to wrought iron and it's around 100 years old.
Maybe look into metallurgy and blacksmithing some more, we are not talking about blades of a jet engine.
Are you going to weld on some tangs to fit in a vice or square stock to fit a hardy hole? Trying to forge them peices around a loose floppy die with red hot steel is a royal pain!
Would it be possible to make a large polyurethane bump stop. Like a couple 6" hollow cubes. with a few 1/4" holes in the middle. To take some of the shock from the springs . Kind of putting the poly between the spring and hangers. I don't think its the weight breaking things, i think its a combination of weight and harmonics.
Please put a 1/16 radius on the hardy for stress relief.
Great video .Keith doesn't the old Marvel bandsaw head tilt?
It’s not worth the trouble of tilting the big head for one part. Keith chose the easier and faster wooden jig to make the cuts.
Do you ever redesign a part, due to the advances in material or machining methods, which would be an improvement on the original, or do you try and stay true to the original.
Looks like there are still some Steamties around...
As a blacksmith, don't scrap the old spring hanger. As they haven't made wrought iron in many decades, pas it off to a local blacksmith, who could repurposed the material into other things.
Wrought iron has a grain structure similar to wood, so a weld repair would understandable not hold(even gluing the end grain of wood is very weak.) If you really wanted to preserve the material, there are some blackmiths with big enough forged that they could take the broken part, forge weld a new billet out of the broken parts, then reforge a new part from the material.
If I were to be reproducing the originals with wrought iron, the bulge just above the fork would be a collar with a horizontal grain forge welded around the vertical grain fork, reinforcing it against splitting.
I've noticed that you create a lot of waste from drilling, milling, and at the lathe.
Are you able to recycle all of that?
Just curious.
Bridgeport? Flycutter and center drill? Those might make faster work and easier
Why not tip saw for angle cuts?
12:20 the material is seperating, because it is cold rolled steel. It has mor stress/tension on the outside of the material. I would not have chosen this material for this application 😊
It's going to be heated and forged, not machined. Totally irrelevant.
Never knew that they had springs
Keith, what is the clunking noise on the bandsaw?
Was a great video.....with your connections I am surprised that you didn't solicit someone or company to donate use of an industrial laser to cut the parts out of solid steel. I would be cautious of thinning those 5/8 legs at the split point then widening the split during hand forging plus the singular stress point at the split might act identical to a 90 degree corner and would need to be radiused to lessen the possibility of fracturing at the corner......I would think the safe and sure way would have been laser cut the shape from solid.........just saying
Totally agree on the stress point, a fatigue crack is waiting to happen.
Unexpected! Merlin! Radial drill! Forge on the horizon!!! It's most fortunate that your Health-O-Meter is on the plus side of the scale now, because you would have forced yourself to do it while sick and have been miserable. I would make up things to build just to use those machines all day.
Interesting how much stress is in that piece of steel, it looks to me like at least .25" that it spread.
It looks like he has primed the "pump" for the next guy up the line, we will see the results.
If your pieces are only 2" wide, where are you going to get the other 3/4" for the eye hole at the end?
how will he hold that block? I would have left it longer and made a leg for a hardy hole. That way it could be held on the anvil. Did you allow enough room in length for the metal to follow the curves. I don't remember. I think you just measure the height down the middle for the hanger, not the actual length of the hanger ears.
Does the Vulcan have a Stoker Engine?
is it safe to say you're doing them this way for originality sake? seems to me they would be a simpler job to make out of welded steel...
You are kind to make the preparations for the Smith. I think it sure would still be a difficult forging project.
Frank
Why not just move the Vise on the Marvel and use the 45° Tilt option?
I wanna see the forging.
What happened to the little steam engine everyone was working on. I haven't seen anything about it in over a year.
This is what happens when you take a train to the Baja 1000. Its a train not a trophy truck,! 😂.
Drawing out metal is far better than cutting it away. By drawing it the iron gets denser and thus stronger. Of course without a power hammer it takes a lot of elbow grease.
Pity you probably can't get metric sizes of steel Keith. 80mm would have only need a shaving taking off.
Metric sizes are not commonly available in America except on special order. The final part won’t know the difference.
@@ellieprice363 Thats why I said "probably can't get". The final part really really won't know the difference. The bandsaw blade would have noticed.
It's a pity you metric-zealots won't give it a rest.
couldn't you have sent this out to do it by EDM?
$pend $$$$$$$$$$$ and leave the machines you worked on and spent money on sitting. Don't sound too good to me.
Wrought iron is easy to weld and is nothing like cast iron with hich carbon content.
According to Bob Bergman of Postville Blacksmith, who regularly works with true wrought iron, wrought’s low carbon content makes it easy to weld. “Wrought can stand tremendous heat and is more forgiving,” says Bergman. “It is better structurally for old time blacksmithing.”
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Thank you for sharing.👍