Thanks for being very clear without annoying music or bad language. This is the best video I've seen so far on the Weber electric choke, and I've seen a lot of attempts. Again, thanks so much.
Great info, great video. Previous owner removed choke butterflies off mine, 200rpm cold start, accelerator to keep it alive then settles eventually at 850 but then up to 1000 after fully warmed. School run can be interesting lol so much fun...
Fired right up! Mine takes at least 3 cranks on even a 60 degree day to start. Didnt even know about there being 2 fast idle settings. Seems like mine only has 1
Mine is dumping fuel above 2500rpms. I am still in the process of troubleshooting it. It's a real Weber. I am going to keep checking for vacuum leaks, since I know that can force the power valve to hang open. If I rev and hold the rpms at ~3k, my garage fills w/ smoke. It's definitely gas.
Alright, fixed it. It was in serious need of repair and help. I bought this truck w/ the Weber installed and dude must've had no clue what he was doing. None of the plates were flattened. There were MASSIVE vacuum leaks all around the carb's base. So I took everything apart - found out one of the carb mounting studs was completely stripped out. That was fun. Got everything flattened. Sealed up. Adjusted. It's amazing how much better the truck is running now with a good seal and some minor adjustments.
Embarrassed to make this comment, but I put a clone weber 32/36 on my 1982 Toyota truck and after about three years, one morning my throttle stuck wide open. I immediately turned it off went under the hood and unstuck it not seeing what the cause was. Then while leaving a friends house it happened again. Then when I looked there was this linkage hanging down which I could not see where the other end connected too, so I removed it. The truck seemed to run fine without it, for about 9 months. Now all of a sudden it dies without continual throttle depression. Now I found your video and what fell off is the linkage with the fast idle screw. So your video was great but now I am looking for a view from underneath the auto choke, too see if I am missing still another part(for sure I need the pivot screw, but looks like something else was connected there too. Any help is welcome and seems like such a tiny problem to have to scrap the whole carb, but looks like most people have a spare clone lying around for one problem or another.
I like the valve cover color , I wonder if is regular high temp semi gloss or is something else , I've been looking to paint mine just like that , BTW good job setting your weber the right way is one in a thousand 😉
Is this 2 stage cam something that will naturally be actuated upon startup, and then click off when the truck warms up and the choke valves open up? Or is it something that you have to mess with manually. I bought an old Nissan with a 32/36 on it and the butterfly's were zip tied opened. Needless to say I couldn't get it fired up on cold AMs. Anyway I can get it started but I have to click the cam by hand, on and then off, otherwise the engine races. Any insight would be appreciated.
I have a Weber carb on my 85 cj. Mine doesn’t seem to have the two stage cams. It seems it’s either wide open choke on right down to about 6 800 rpms. Just an estimate I don’t have a tach. I have an issue that it seems to misfire when I hit about 55. Like a hard misfire and it is over and over, I thought I had it fixed when I change the normal tune up stuff. I can say my carb is filthy I’m gonna take it off and clean it. I know on my old Harley if the carb settings are off it runs terrible. Fouls plugs. Not sure if it works like that with vehicles though. Would it cause my vehicle to misfire around 55mph? It seems like it’s not getting fuel. It has done it ever since I bought it. It’s a mint ride but this problem plagues it. Nice ride man love the old school rides! She’s clean!
Mitch, I see a lot of people here on YT that change their stock carb with a Weber. I used to have the stock FE carb but it was not fully operational. I changed the whole intake with one of a 626 and this carb is far better than the previous. I have a fuel consumption of 27.5 mpg (8.6lt/100km) in average and with a smooth operation. So, should I change it??? I have the saying "since it's operational, don't touch it"...
If it ain't broke don't fix it that's what they say but hey after a while when that stock carburetor starts having fits and you can't tune it or do anything to it you'll be looking to the Weber it's so much simpler gets the same miles per gallon I get 27 on the highway and 25 in town 23 if I'm pulling a trailer
Hey dude, great video. But, I'm having a hell of a time with the electric choke on my 32/36. I've tried setting it while cold and while hot. But basically I set it and it starts n runs fine for the first time. But after the choke plates open all the way they get stuck there. Ill run the car till warm and then shut it off n let it cool over night. But then I pat the throttle to close the choke again the next day but it doesn't move. Unless I go n push it closed with my finger then it stays closed. But its as if its sticking... any ideas?
I know this is an old thread, but for those that are experiencing this same issue, you have to depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor one time in order to release the choke plates to the closed position. By doing this (not patting) you rotate the first stage (cold idle choke) to clear the ramp back to the cold starting position.
Hey Mitch had a question. Had a 32/36 Weber installed and now the gas pedal seems to be harder to push to accelerate and seems to have a short amount before it feels like the trucks floored and really doesn’t seem to be any faster or anything. Any suggestions?
My 22r yoda Weber 32/36 electric choke back fires when I accelerate it I don’t know what’s is going on timing is good I tuned it using your videos and other sources.
Not sure if you still respond to the older videos but I'm working on the Weber on my Subaru brat. When I start it up with the fast idle it will be at 2000rpm but when I tap it after 10-20 seconds the car will die. Any advice or thoughts?
@@MazdaMitch Thank you for your help! I double checked the choke and checked the vacuum pull off. Both are good now but I'm still having problems so I think I must've set my my floats too low. Thanks again
@MazdaMitch ok how.much is to much what are signs cause my weber 32/36 that screw wasnt even touching the cam now that its tighten more it doesnt stutter or wanna die during start up or at a red light wayy better!!
@@chefrobertcaldas the fast idle cam is for when you want to adjust to fast idle on cold crank, it works with the choke. How much is too much? You can make it run very high rpm, youlll know.
Question ... ive got an 89 mazda b2200 , weber carb installed , timing belt done , new ignition coil , new distributor . My mazda will not run at 14° i have to advance it waay past 14 for it to run. ran it like this for a month . Randomely some strange reason it started to increase idle so i retarded timing back to 14° and it ran perfect for a short while but now its back to only running if i had to assume 20-30° of timing
It depends on the climate and how cold it is outside If it's really cold I let it run at a high idle for about 10 seconds or so and then I pat it and then it goes down to around a little bit above a thousand depends on how cold it is and then I'll let it finish warming up and when I'm ready to go I pat it again and it goes down.
I think you just diagnosed my weber problem on my 77 MG Midget. Sticking at 2k RPM wont idle down. I think the choke has me stuck at high idle. Ill check tomorrow in the daylight
@@wellconnectedwellprotected the whole carb needed a rebuild and reset to factory default. The choke was too closed, running rich at all RPMs, the idle adjustment was too rich, the accelerator pump was weak. The secondaries came on too soon too, making it run even more richly at speed. I didn't wind up changing jets or really anything.
I think you are talking about where the PCV hose connects to the base of the carb. Sure I think you can cap that off if you wanted to with no ill effects. I run my pcv line to it though.
OK, I start my truck, it idles at about 1800 rpm and stays there. I put it in drive or reverse and it idles down to about a 1000 rpm. I did have a friend mechanic adjust the throttle and the fuel mixture to get the carb to this point. My question is, what do I need to do to get it to idle at that 1800 to 2000 rpm at start, warm up, tap the accelerator and drop down to the normal 1000 rpm range?
@mazdamitch I have a question about the high idle cam. When I start the truck up in the morning it goes to 2000 rpm. Ill leave it for a few moments then tap the gas, it goes down to 1000 rpm. When I start driving around it idles at 750rpm. But when I stop it will shoot back up to 1000-1500. It will drop back down to 750 if I tap the gas again. It seems to be getting stuck on somewhere on the cam lobe. Have you had any experience with this? If you could shed some light that would be much appreciated.
i need some help, the idle screw on mine for some reason needs to turned all the way in to just touch the bracket for setting the idle, everything seems to be hooked up correctly, i have pictures if you'd want a better idea of it
Is it really important to connect the electric choke to work the carb properly? I having trouble on my Choke.. it wont hold the butterfly when im trying to adjust the idle speed screw. How many turn the fast idle screw to work properly?
@@norman2482 Misfire usually. means the timing is off. Take a deep dive through all my carb videos to get a better understanding of the carb. Yes you need to choke hooked up and everything set properly or at least baseline. Thats too much for text to tell about all that, hence why I have made so many videos, check out this playlist th-cam.com/play/PLc4KKLOqwwOvpSgL00CqbBC7oUuIDxHIN.html
I noticed that you have your pvc hose running to a canister then to the manifold? I just have mine going straight to the manifold? Should I change that? Because I have noticed that several people have it like you have it but I have also heard from a couple other people that it doesn't matter what is your take on that..
I added an oil catch can, thats where the line is going. Its catching oil vapor so that I have a cleaner intake and cleaner burn in the combustion chamber.
hey man, i know this is an older video but im having a huge issue with my choke. car starts amazing, but once it starts warming up the choke will start closing until it’s closed shut 100%, i know it’s supposed to open instead, but i just can’t seem to find the issue with it, i have a huge headache about it and hope you can help me out, thanks!
Do you have the choke plugged up to a 12 volt power source so that it can have heat applied to it and expand the bi-metal spring which will open the choke?
@@MazdaMitch yea, 12v from hot side of coil, took the choke out to see what was going on and it looks like the spring starts expanding instead of getting tighter, i’m not sure if it’s supposed to get tighter, if it did it would open the choke once it warms up, but since it expands it starts pushing the choke closed until it closed shut and makes the car die. really confused but i ordered a rebuild kit and a new choke to see if it solves the problem.
@@MazdaMitch Thanks for the reply. I'll see if I can find it. My weber carb will only stay choked for short time. Once you press the pedal the choke pops to full open. Has been sitting over winter. I need to see if I can get it adjusted. Thanks again for your reply and great videos.
That is an oil catch can and it goes in line with the PCV system. There is always oil vapor in the PCV system and it ends up on your valves and can cause carbon deposits on the valves in the Pistons so with the catch can we're catching it all which you'll have a cleaner system every vehicle needs one but the manufacturer is often do not put them on there because that's just one more thing that you have to maintain and they don't care it's not profitable to make a vehicle last long. I have a video or two about the oil catch can on here somewhere.
Well that's because you don't have the fast idle cam set correctly or the fast idle set at all If you don't need it you don't need it but if it were me I would set it correctly because even living in Mississippi where it gets hot as hell it still useful on startups
@@Hawaiicountrylivin Easier air flow. More air flow with less restriction the better. The lower air filter is almost dead even with the top of the carb.
Sorry, but no. That's not a fact. Not going to argue with someone over the internet, but no. A few months ago a older GM came into the shop with high idle issues... had around 9V going to it. Wouldn't kick down. Poor crimping on the connector caused interference. New terminal and correct crimping and the choke was receiving 12V. Whatdya know, it worked.
@@mhubble91 and furthermore this same power is supplied to the original stock carb electric choke. If you open it too soon on these trucks in the winter you'll fall flat f you head out too soon
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MazdaMitch hey man do you have a brass float in yours?
@@amsralliart No these do not have a brass float in them. Its a different material.
MazdaMitch I’m converting mine to brass I’m having issues with the composite float breaking down
@@amsralliart You may not have a genuine weber, you may have a cheap clone. I have had the same weber for over 11 years, no issues.
MazdaMitch no it’s a legit Weber it’s just the float is bad flooded my entire intake with gas
Only video on youtube with a proper running weber! Props man!
Thanks for being very clear without annoying music or bad language. This is the best video I've seen so far on the Weber electric choke, and I've seen a lot of attempts. Again, thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Mazda Mitch, nice truck you have there. Thanks for the video and great explanation of how to properly adjust the Weber two-stage choke.
Glad to help
Good stuff. I’m converting my MG to a Weber, and am trying to learn all I can about them. This vid was really helpful, thanks!
that's one clean engine bay!
Great info, great video. Previous owner removed choke butterflies off mine, 200rpm cold start, accelerator to keep it alive then settles eventually at 850 but then up to 1000 after fully warmed. School run can be interesting lol so much fun...
You got the best videos on webers
Thanks
Fired right up! Mine takes at least 3 cranks on even a 60 degree day to start. Didnt even know about there being 2 fast idle settings. Seems like mine only has 1
Dang your truck is cleannnn. Nice bro
Mine is dumping fuel above 2500rpms. I am still in the process of troubleshooting it. It's a real Weber. I am going to keep checking for vacuum leaks, since I know that can force the power valve to hang open. If I rev and hold the rpms at ~3k, my garage fills w/ smoke. It's definitely gas.
Alright, fixed it. It was in serious need of repair and help. I bought this truck w/ the Weber installed and dude must've had no clue what he was doing. None of the plates were flattened. There were MASSIVE vacuum leaks all around the carb's base.
So I took everything apart - found out one of the carb mounting studs was completely stripped out. That was fun.
Got everything flattened. Sealed up. Adjusted.
It's amazing how much better the truck is running now with a good seal and some minor adjustments.
Good info Mitch, I'm almost done with mine but this cold weather no can do lol. Thanks for the helpfull videos
Could you maybe make a clip on how you have all the vacuum lines connected up please?
You don’t connect them you get rid of them
why does my weber carb make a whistling sound? Also it dies on cold start if i dont give it gas. carb hasnt been tuned yet so it might just be that.
Vacuum leak
Embarrassed to make this comment, but I put a clone weber 32/36 on my 1982 Toyota truck and after about three years, one morning my throttle stuck wide open. I immediately turned it off went under the hood and unstuck it not seeing what the cause was. Then while leaving a friends house it happened again. Then when I looked there was this linkage hanging down which I could not see where the other end connected too, so I removed it. The truck seemed to run fine without it, for about 9 months. Now all of a sudden it dies without continual throttle depression. Now I found your video and what fell off is the linkage with the fast idle screw. So your video was great but now I am looking for a view from underneath the auto choke, too see if I am missing still another part(for sure I need the pivot screw, but looks like something else was connected there too. Any help is welcome and seems like such a tiny problem to have to scrap the whole carb, but looks like most people have a spare clone lying around for one problem or another.
I like you channel..you are so clera on details..im going to put the same weber on my mazda b2200 1990
I like the valve cover color , I wonder if is regular high temp semi gloss or is something else , I've been looking to paint mine just like that , BTW good job setting your weber the right way is one in a thousand 😉
Black bar b q paint works good 1500 degree heat point, looks sick to!
What if my electric choke has never had a power wire running to it?
Is this 2 stage cam something that will naturally be actuated upon startup, and then click off when the truck warms up and the choke valves open up? Or is it something that you have to mess with manually. I bought an old Nissan with a 32/36 on it and the butterfly's were zip tied opened. Needless to say I couldn't get it fired up on cold AMs.
Anyway I can get it started but I have to click the cam by hand, on and then off, otherwise the engine races.
Any insight would be appreciated.
More great information! Thanks much.
I have a Weber carb on my 85 cj. Mine doesn’t seem to have the two stage cams. It seems it’s either wide open choke on right down to about 6 800 rpms. Just an estimate I don’t have a tach. I have an issue that it seems to misfire when I hit about 55. Like a hard misfire and it is over and over, I thought I had it fixed when I change the normal tune up stuff. I can say my carb is filthy I’m gonna take it off and clean it. I know on my old Harley if the carb settings are off it runs terrible. Fouls plugs. Not sure if it works like that with vehicles though. Would it cause my vehicle to misfire around 55mph? It seems like it’s not getting fuel. It has done it ever since I bought it. It’s a mint ride but this problem plagues it. Nice ride man love the old school rides! She’s clean!
thanks. this is exactly what i needed
You look wonderful! Thx for the vid!
Mitch, I see a lot of people here on YT that change their stock carb with a Weber. I used to have the stock FE carb but it was not fully operational. I changed the whole intake with one of a 626 and this carb is far better than the previous. I have a fuel consumption of 27.5 mpg (8.6lt/100km) in average and with a smooth operation. So, should I change it??? I have the saying "since it's operational, don't touch it"...
If it ain't broke don't fix it that's what they say but hey after a while when that stock carburetor starts having fits and you can't tune it or do anything to it you'll be looking to the Weber it's so much simpler gets the same miles per gallon I get 27 on the highway and 25 in town 23 if I'm pulling a trailer
Hey dude, great video. But, I'm having a hell of a time with the electric choke on my 32/36. I've tried setting it while cold and while hot. But basically I set it and it starts n runs fine for the first time. But after the choke plates open all the way they get stuck there. Ill run the car till warm and then shut it off n let it cool over night. But then I pat the throttle to close the choke again the next day but it doesn't move. Unless I go n push it closed with my finger then it stays closed. But its as if its sticking... any ideas?
Do you have 12V (run circuit) to the choke?
I know this is an old thread, but for those that are experiencing this same issue, you have to depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor one time in order to release the choke plates to the closed position. By doing this (not patting) you rotate the first stage (cold idle choke) to clear the ramp back to the cold starting position.
Good idea with the air filter... I might have to do that myself.
So you have two Mazda's bro that's nice
Hey Mitch had a question. Had a 32/36 Weber installed and now the gas pedal seems to be harder to push to accelerate and seems to have a short amount before it feels like the trucks floored and really doesn’t seem to be any faster or anything. Any suggestions?
Sounds like your throttle cable is too tight, possibly on how you installed it. Review it and adjust.
My 22r yoda Weber 32/36 electric choke back fires when I accelerate it I don’t know what’s is going on timing is good I tuned it using your videos and other sources.
Not sure if you still respond to the older videos but I'm working on the Weber on my Subaru brat. When I start it up with the fast idle it will be at 2000rpm but when I tap it after 10-20 seconds the car will die. Any advice or thoughts?
I would want to think the choke adjustment doesn't have enough tension on it.
@@MazdaMitch Thank you for your help! I double checked the choke and checked the vacuum pull off. Both are good now but I'm still having problems so I think I must've set my my floats too low. Thanks again
Having lots of problems with my Weber 32/36 DFEV. They are pretty similar I assume?
do you have to screw in that fast idle screw or is it better to tighten the choke for more spring tension?
The fast idle screw, you can adjust it by screwing it in.
@MazdaMitch ok how.much is to much what are signs cause my weber 32/36 that screw wasnt even touching the cam now that its tighten more it doesnt stutter or wanna die during start up or at a red light wayy better!!
@@chefrobertcaldas the fast idle cam is for when you want to adjust to fast idle on cold crank, it works with the choke. How much is too much? You can make it run very high rpm, youlll know.
@MazdaMitch yah i feel like mine is to high now should i adjust the choke and fast iddle screw 🤔 or just the fast idle screw a half turn out?
Question ... ive got an 89 mazda b2200 , weber carb installed , timing belt done , new ignition coil , new distributor . My mazda will not run at 14° i have to advance it waay past 14 for it to run. ran it like this for a month . Randomely some strange reason it started to increase idle so i retarded timing back to 14° and it ran perfect for a short while but now its back to only running if i had to assume 20-30° of timing
Is it bad to pad it immediately after starting, taking it from 2k to 1k rpm, or should you wait ten seconds or so? If so, why is that important?
It depends on the climate and how cold it is outside If it's really cold I let it run at a high idle for about 10 seconds or so and then I pat it and then it goes down to around a little bit above a thousand depends on how cold it is and then I'll let it finish warming up and when I'm ready to go I pat it again and it goes down.
@@MazdaMitch you the man!
I think you just diagnosed my weber problem on my 77 MG Midget. Sticking at 2k RPM wont idle down. I think the choke has me stuck at high idle. Ill check tomorrow in the daylight
I have the same issue did you ever solve it?
@@wellconnectedwellprotected the whole carb needed a rebuild and reset to factory default. The choke was too closed, running rich at all RPMs, the idle adjustment was too rich, the accelerator pump was weak. The secondaries came on too soon too, making it run even more richly at speed. I didn't wind up changing jets or really anything.
hi on the secondary side of the 32/36 dgav their is a diaphragm with a hose connect to the bottom of the carb can i block it and Will it run good
I think you are talking about where the PCV hose connects to the base of the carb. Sure I think you can cap that off if you wanted to with no ill effects. I run my pcv line to it though.
OK, I start my truck, it idles at about 1800 rpm and stays there. I put it in drive or reverse and it idles down to about a 1000 rpm. I did have a friend mechanic adjust the throttle and the fuel mixture to get the carb to this point.
My question is, what do I need to do to get it to idle at that 1800 to 2000 rpm at start, warm up, tap the accelerator and drop down to the normal 1000 rpm range?
You just need to adjust the fast idle screw attached to the choke. Thats what is discussed in this video.
@mazdamitch I have a question about the high idle cam. When I start the truck up in the morning it goes to 2000 rpm. Ill leave it for a few moments then tap the gas, it goes down to 1000 rpm. When I start driving around it idles at 750rpm. But when I stop it will shoot back up to 1000-1500. It will drop back down to 750 if I tap the gas again. It seems to be getting stuck on somewhere on the cam lobe. Have you had any experience with this? If you could shed some light that would be much appreciated.
Spray lubricant on everything. Try that first. Is the carb used or old or not genuine? Throttle shaft may be worn.
MazdaMitch its genuine and about 7 months old. This all started after i adjusted the high idle speed from 2000 to 1500
i need some help, the idle screw on mine for some reason needs to turned all the way in to just touch the bracket for setting the idle, everything seems to be hooked up correctly, i have pictures if you'd want a better idea of it
are the throttle plates fully closing?
Is it really important to connect the electric choke to work the carb properly? I having trouble on my Choke.. it wont hold the butterfly when im trying to adjust the idle speed screw. How many turn the fast idle screw to work properly?
Yes the electric choke will not work if it's not connected to electricity
@@MazdaMitch engine shut off when i tried connect to 12v.. having misfire on carb
@@norman2482 Misfire usually. means the timing is off. Take a deep dive through all my carb videos to get a better understanding of the carb. Yes you need to choke hooked up and everything set properly or at least baseline. Thats too much for text to tell about all that, hence why I have made so many videos, check out this playlist th-cam.com/play/PLc4KKLOqwwOvpSgL00CqbBC7oUuIDxHIN.html
I noticed that you have your pvc hose running to a canister then to the manifold? I just have mine going straight to the manifold? Should I change that? Because I have noticed that several people have it like you have it but I have also heard from a couple other people that it doesn't matter what is your take on that..
I added an oil catch can, thats where the line is going. Its catching oil vapor so that I have a cleaner intake and cleaner burn in the combustion chamber.
MazdaMitch
Thank you.. can you do a video on how to properly set a Weber 32 - 36 dgev I believe that is the exact same carburetor that you have
Hey I have an Suzuki sweft will it fit on my car
I am uncertain, but visit redlineweber.com and check there for fitment.
hey man, i know this is an older video but im having a huge issue with my choke. car starts amazing, but once it starts warming up the choke will start closing until it’s closed shut 100%, i know it’s supposed to open instead, but i just can’t seem to find the issue with it, i have a huge headache about it and hope you can help me out, thanks!
Do you have the choke plugged up to a 12 volt power source so that it can have heat applied to it and expand the bi-metal spring which will open the choke?
@@MazdaMitch yea, 12v from hot side of coil, took the choke out to see what was going on and it looks like the spring starts expanding instead of getting tighter, i’m not sure if it’s supposed to get tighter, if it did it would open the choke once it warms up, but since it expands it starts pushing the choke closed until it closed shut and makes the car die. really confused but i ordered a rebuild kit and a new choke to see if it solves the problem.
5 months late but I had a weber like this, factory installed the choke coil in reverse! Flipped it over and had no issues from then on.
I got a Weber 32/36 on a Suzuki Samurai that's burning too rich ,smell gas and consume a lot of fuel. What could be cause. ??
Thank you!+
The float could be set to high, and mixture screw turned out too much. Needs a tune via the tuning guide
@@MazdaMitch Ok thank you . I will try to tune it with the guide. How I can adjust my float. Whats the ideal setting?
Once again Thank you
Where are you getting the 7 volt connection...Thanks
Back of the alternator puts out 7. That is where originally the choke it heater plate was connected with the original carb.
@@MazdaMitch Thanks for the reply. I'll see if I can find it. My weber carb will only stay choked for short time. Once you press the pedal the choke pops to full open. Has been sitting over winter. I need to see if I can get it adjusted. Thanks again for your reply and great videos.
Bro what do we adjust if the carb is burning to much fuel “running rich”
redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm
What is that black bottle on the side
That is an oil catch can and it goes in line with the PCV system. There is always oil vapor in the PCV system and it ends up on your valves and can cause carbon deposits on the valves in the Pistons so with the catch can we're catching it all which you'll have a cleaner system every vehicle needs one but the manufacturer is often do not put them on there because that's just one more thing that you have to maintain and they don't care it's not profitable to make a vehicle last long. I have a video or two about the oil catch can on here somewhere.
On my 32 36 when i start it it dont rev up to wjere i tap the pedal to lower the idle mines runs just fine it doesnt do that
Well that's because you don't have the fast idle cam set correctly or the fast idle set at all If you don't need it you don't need it but if it were me I would set it correctly because even living in Mississippi where it gets hot as hell it still useful on startups
@@MazdaMitch im gonna leave mines its fine
@@MazdaMitch do you know if theres a differenc between using the 2 inch filter compared to the 1 inch filter
@@Hawaiicountrylivin Easier air flow. More air flow with less restriction the better. The lower air filter is almost dead even with the top of the carb.
@@MazdaMitch my truck stills runs a bit after i turn it off ..i dont know why..like its diehard
Does this cause for it to go low on oil cause I have no leaks
No. Yours is probably just burning oil due to worn rings
MazdaMitch how do I search those up are are they just called rings cause mine stays at high rpms idk if the carb needs to be adjusted or what
Also I did an oil change like 4 days ago .. previous oil was pitch black and now 4 days later it’s low on oil and it’s back to black
My carb is similar but auto choke. Its not running right.
This one is auto choke too.
@@MazdaMitch oh sorry im I'm new to these, it has a water thing on the side. Kind of explains why i thought mine was different.
Excuse my ignorance but is this an A14 Engine?
No it's a Mazda F2
@@MazdaMitch oh ok, thanks for the reply
How do you tension them?
I'm not understanding you?
@@MazdaMitch do you refurbish the carburetors ?
No I do not.
@@MazdaMitch I’m having trouble with my truck it shuts off when i let off the accelerator what can the problem be?
@@MazdaMitch I’m having trouble with my truck it shuts off when i let off the accelerator what can the problem be?
If 12V isn't supplied to the choke coil, it won't open fully.
Wrong it most certainly will. 7 volt is sufficient
Sorry, but no. That's not a fact. Not going to argue with someone over the internet, but no. A few months ago a older GM came into the shop with high idle issues... had around 9V going to it. Wouldn't kick down. Poor crimping on the connector caused interference. New terminal and correct crimping and the choke was receiving 12V. Whatdya know, it worked.
@@mhubble91 apples to oranges. What you delt with was not a weber 32/36. I know these too well and have been doing this for years
@@mhubble91 and furthermore this same power is supplied to the original stock carb electric choke. If you open it too soon on these trucks in the winter you'll fall flat f you head out too soon
Also I cut the zip ties :)
you are running too much fuel pressure
No I am not. The stock mechanical pump doesn't put out too much.
I've also been doing this almost 10 years. I have two trucks. Get 27-30 mpg hwy. What what!!
Here’s my boat with redline carb: th-cam.com/video/4hnMpA1feYA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=crsVndKjillQ31tb