Thank you. Very clean and beautiful setup. What is that kind of throttle cable? I am currently converting a '77 BMW 320i into a weber carb and i am struggling at the throttle linkage.
Thank you for posting all these videos. Working on a carb upgrade abs manifold for a 1980. I can’t get the throttle rod bent in such a way I get the secondary to fully open. I got two spacer the 12mm and a 2 mm. What spacer should I use. On your install you used the 12mm. Also did you altered the length of the rod? I am cutting them as the oem 9”. Then threading them at 10/32. I am on my 5th one and got a little frustrated. Any insight in to the length, bent angle , length of first run after initial bend starting at carb side. Should I got longer or shorter? The problem is at the high point of the rotation and the angle the throttle is being pulled. Total throttle travel is 1”. I can get to 3/4” and the binding starts. Thank you for all that you do. Especially the Velcro trick and sound and heat Barrier for interior. Saved me a lot of time. Also the fact that you talk on the important teaching moments abs findings.
I couldn't get wide open with the spacer from the kit, maybe 2x on the 12 spacers to get enough height to get full open on the throttle. I built a spacer out of the old carb which took it back up to the original height. Had to make a few bends to the rod to get it right. Glad the videos are helping out with your build. Check out the carb riser video for some more rod bends. Oh I got some new lowering springs in the beginning it goes to carb riser after that. th-cam.com/video/-0S5iWAkCvA/w-d-xo.html
@@ELDESTBuilds Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it. I used 2 12mm spacers including the gaskets , well 3 of them, that did the trick. The throttle force is now linear. I will have a spacer machines out of aluminum but the setup up now will work. Can’t thank you enough. Something else on your install video, the line to the brake booster. It seems you showed the fitting for the hose on the intake manifold that came from the gulped valve. The line to the brake booster is smaller. I ended up using the brass L fitting from the old manifold, same thread size. Was there a benefit on going to a larger diameter hose? I do not want to bother you with silly questions. I just think you did an excellent job and want to understand if some of the things where to improve the performance, especially the brakes. I will make sure to ask on the correct video next time. It is amazing how much time Anyone is able to save because of your detailed videos. Really appreciate you taking the time for all the fine details. This was not a first choice car, neighborhood had it sitting in garage for a long time. Told me he had no time for it. Prior owners did a lot of little things I am untangling. Have a great evening and once again thank you for your help.
Thanks for this and all your other videos! I just changed the plugs on mine and found that the carburetor seems to be rich as they're all quite black. How do I lean it out a bit?
Too many variables, how old are the plugs? Are they the right heat range? How many mile on the plugs? How many miles on the motor? Is it smogged? See where I'm going here? Good work on changing the plugs, I'd go on with the rest of a tune up before I considered leaning out a carb. Adjust the settings on the carb like in the video to best tune the car at idle. Any leaning out requires cracking the carb open and jet changes. Probably not necessary unless you made adjustments to the rotating parts.
As usual…an excellent referral video. The small “motorcycle like” K&N filter seeing at the bottom right of the video, is for what? Was it installed in place of the vacuum manifold that seats about the same location?
With the new filter the opening for the crankcase ventilation is too small. I just cut the CVS hose and popped in the filler. I've seen others running just an open hose or a filter closer to the can. Here is the Amazon link K&N Vent Air Filter/ Breather: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 0.75 In, Filter Height: 2 In, Flange Length: 0.875 In, Shape: Breather, 62-1160 www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WXRC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CXB6ESW1GDS9WSEBSGET?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My Son has a 1975 124 Spider with the 2-litre motor, bigger cam and dome pistons. What jets do you suggest for this upgrade? Also, great videos! Very helpful.
That sounds like a nice build. Start with what is in the carb. The best way is to hook up an Air/Fuel meter and go for a drive. When buying and changing jets stay with the same brand. The numbers aren't really universal.
Mine was running great until recently. It’s starts and revs to about 1500 RPMs as normal but then drops suddenly and turns off. It’s a fairly new Weber with maybe 300 miles on it. I’m guessing it’s not getting enough fuel and/or fuel pressure.
First, tighten all the screws on top of the carb. Second, tighten the nuts that hold the carb to the manifold. Check 3rd tighten the intake to head fasteners 4th check vacuum hose connections Check If there's any backfire thru the carb or running after key off, replace coil.
@@ELDESTBuilds , thanks! Also, there is a screw with a spring on the choke mechanism just like the idle speed screw. Do you know the baseline adjustment for this screw? I can’t find any videos explaining what that screw does. (Weber Redline 32/36 DGEV) In general, I’ve no clue how this happened so sudden. I had just come from changing my rims to 15” from 14” and I noticed it seemed to struggle a little on my way to the store. When I got to the store, I turn the car off and it vibrated weirdly as the engine shutdown. It instantly shutdown right when letting off the gas at the stop signs. It ran so smooth and responsive before this happened lol.
@captureinsidethesound the spring screw on the choke is high idle when cold. You can set it manually to the high idle spot and adjust to about 1200 rpm See here th-cam.com/video/IJy3451xuu0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zR0GyZbAeYKfzghp
@captureinsidethesound I'm thinking you had some fasteners loosen up over the heat cycles. Those carb nuts, I take them off and put some loctite on there and snug them down. If there loose it will run ok in the beginning and under WOT but there's a vacuum leak that develops when warm and it will run poorly and die off throttle.
@@ELDESTBuilds , thanks so much! I can’t get my throttle to come wide open like seen in that video link you provided. Im just going to take the whole carburetor off the intake and see if everything is working properly. I wasn’t the one who did the de-vac and installed this Weber. The guy purchased the car from stated he just went by the manual. I’ll respond back with an update.
Hey.. great videos.. very helpful.. I just bought an 82 Fiat and it needs alot of love and attention. It was apparently FI but hasb nee converted to a carb. the carb is all jury rigged so I am going to buy a 32/36 dfev.. the question I have is where do I find that wire for the electric choke? I cannot find it anywhere. Thanks for any help.
@@ELDESTBuilds Thank you...I have purchased the exact carb as you did but dont know where to get the metal linkage rod. Where did you get it from or did you have to make it?
Thank you very much as I have very little experience with carburetors. I have been trying to figure out why it is running so poorly after setting up a single plane manifold and 32/36 carb. I found the choke coil spring not even connected to the butterfly operating pin.
I notice that you have one of those gas filters that has a return. Where does the narrow hose come from that connected to the gas filter? Does your carb have a return?
Hey man, super vids. Just found a '77 spider. Young local mech. installed a new carb and intake manifold gasket but the car will stall unless you keep jazzing the gas pedal. Can't get it dialed in. I'm new to fiats. Any suggestions?
Check intake side nuts and bolts for torque. Those carb nuts will sometimes rattle out of spec. Check vacuum lines for leaks. Check fuel delivery to the carb. Then set the idle screw to the rpm that keeps the car running. Now you can check the electric side, timing and advance and such. See here for some weird ones th-cam.com/video/t6XwiL5ZOVA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=d6TUp4QrSa8Wrsu9
Hello. Watch a lot of your videos. Question the video of u adjusting the carburetor u said u don't need that white plug going into the bottom of the breather
I didn't use it. The big elephant hose from the block I used a K&N filter. The hoses from the EGR side were all deleted. See here for a version that uses it. That 3 way plug came with the car th-cam.com/video/FP1fP_yRoH4/w-d-xo.html
That was fairly simple. Now, have you aver adjusted the choke on a Weber carb with the thermo choke? instead of the electric unit it uses engine coolant to warm up the spring to open choke. My friend has 2 1976 Lancia Scorpions with the thermostatic choke on the Weber carbs and neither choke is closing . Got one of the 2 cars to run yesterday . Swapped carb from one to the other to get it running but the choke is not working properly . it stays open all the time. 1.8 L engines DOHC.
I bypassed that issue with the upgrade to the Weber 32/36 with electric choke. I'll have to take a look at the old carb to see if I can figure anything out for you.
Thanks for the video - I have the same carb. On the opposite side of the carburetor on the base plate there is another screw that looks just like the idle mixture. Do you know what that’s for?
@@ELDESTBuilds I found the model number and was able to find the specific sheet on the Weber site for my carb. On mine the idle mix is separate for each barrel - they’re both idle mix. TY for answering
I have a 78 Spider and got a new Weber carburetor with heater hose choke, i was able start it and adjusted it, took it for a 30mn. drive and then when I came to a stop it shut off and wouldn't start, until it cooled down and opened the throttle but then it turned off again!?😮
There wasn't a need to. Stock motor with a header. In the first drive video, I was running an air/fuel meter hooked up to an O2 sensor. Everything was in the green.
I have a Weber carburetor 32/36 on A Suzuki samurai 1.3 engine. It run very high rich smell like unburned crude fuel. Also consume a lot of gas. Do you know what could be the cause, or a least where to start. Thank you
@@ELDESTBuilds No vacuum leaks , Timing degree had been check . I will do what just told me to see if any improvement Thank you for your help and information.
I just purchased a Weber carb for 1971 fiat 124. I’m missing something because it’s my understanding that the electric choke opens the butterflies as it warms up, when you shut down the vehicle and the car cools, the butterflies should slowly close. So the car sits overnight, I turn key on but not over, tap on the accelerator once and car should start right up with the choke engaged. Correct? I’m manually having to open the filter and wiggle the butterflies shut in order to start.
This is Texas, it's hot, better safe than stranded. So far it runs great. A little bit of fitment adjustments but worth it. Maybe just upgradimg the fan to a larger more efficient style will work if your not 7 inches from the sun.
@@ELDESTBuilds I live in St. Pete Florida, so I understand. My water pump jut went out today, literally….radiator is ancient so I decided to replace the thermostat, hoses while I’m at it and was thinking about replacing the radiator and adding a new electric fan. Any thoughts? Suggestions….
The Texas Heat radiator bolts on and they supply the hoses. Just have to make room in the bottom bracket. The larger 14 inch fan keeps it cool for sure. Just need to be comfortable with splicing in the bare wires.
Thank you so much for sharing all your practical knowledge shared in a way Novices like me can be successful. BTW in reply to your email a bit ago. The Russian Transmission direct swap is still working great. 500+ mile trip to an Auto show (+ now broken in) it is tighter and better than the 54K original trans it replaced. Orig trans. was good in all gears but sloppy due to rubber degradation is my guess...Any one who wants a low mileage orig. trans that only needs new rubber. let me know. thanks Andreas
You can also cut it and run a die to make new threads. I had to do that on the 1980 about the 9 minute mark on this video th-cam.com/video/t6XwiL5ZOVA/w-d-xo.html
What happens if you accidentally take out the 3screaws and it fully un windsv and pops out and off and now when you hook it up it makes some crazy snapping sound and I can't get it to stop snapping and the butterfly's wont open unless I apply some crazy force behind it and it sounds like it's f****ed
All is not lost. There is an exploded diagram of the carb assembly that shows the proper assembly of the choke mechanism. Also, it is possible to remove all the choke assembly and run without but requires disassembly of the carb to remove the rod and flap. Then you would just use the give it two or three pumps and start it.
Wha does it mean when my idle mix screw doesn’t have any response. IE idle mixture screw is seated and it doesnt want to die. If backed up no change in rpm.
Two things are most likely, first is the throttle screw is too much, engine rpms too high and idle screw is bypassed by the butterflys. Second is the port is blocked and needs a cleaning. Idle mix is only for low rpms, less than 1k+/- then the butterflys open and it gets the juice from the jets.
Now that I have my running I cannot for the life of me get it to not run rich, I have tried adjusting both the idle speed and idle air mixture, anything else I can try? It’s an empi aftermarket carb
Those do not effect lean/rich. They just make it idle right. Set timing to 10° BTDC, make sure all the carb nuts are tight and take it on a high speed run, like the cops are chasing you. Then pull the plugs and see. Smelling gas doesn't mean running rich.
Hey there…I know it’s been a while, but…do you happen to know or have a clue why a Weber 32/36 could backfired under load conditions? Mine has started to act up…but it goes away once I’ve been driving for about 15/20min, and it comes back after engine has been off for at least 3 to 4 hours…oh!, and have giving it a tune up: replaced all gaskets and membranes. Thx!
My fuel filter does not have 3 lines coming out. I have gas in and out. Where does the 3rd line go coming out of your filter? And what filter are you using?
This is for the Weber without the fuel return. The other outlet goes to the the fuel return line back to the tank. www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9UJAA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It would fire, just run rough from the vacuum leak. No fire, may be an ignition timing issue. Check with timing light while cranking to make adjustments
@@ELDESTBuilds so if I go the route of getting a 32/36 what should I do about all those vacuum line that mine has? Just cap them? From my understanding you're in Texas right?
This is the one in the video. www.vickauto.com/FIAT-PARTS/FIAT-124/2000-and-131/Brava-Parts/Performance/32/36-DFEV-Carb-Conversion-Kit-Fiat-124/2000-SKU-30-0331
But if you really want to know www.vickauto.com/FIAT-PARTS/FIAT-124/2000-and-131/Brava-Parts/Performance/Carb-Conversion-Kit-Dual-40-IDF-Fiat-124/2000-SKU-30-0333
These videos have been so incredibly helpful. My dad and I have been getting a spider back up and running and these are awesome
Glad the videos are helpful.
thanks i have a 1974 spider that having starting issues great to see how things are set up
thanks again
Welcome
Thank you. Very clean and beautiful setup. What is that kind of throttle cable? I am currently converting a '77 BMW 320i into a weber carb and i am struggling at the throttle linkage.
That is all stock FIAT-124 parts. Still available over at Vickauto.com.
Thank you for posting all these videos. Working on a carb upgrade abs manifold for a 1980. I can’t get the throttle rod bent in such a way I get the secondary to fully open. I got two spacer the 12mm and a 2 mm. What spacer should I use. On your install you used the 12mm. Also did you altered the length of the rod? I am cutting them as the oem 9”. Then threading them at 10/32. I am on my 5th one and got a little frustrated. Any insight in to the length, bent angle , length of first run after initial bend starting at carb side. Should I got longer or shorter? The problem is at the high point of the rotation and the angle the throttle is being pulled. Total throttle travel is 1”. I can get to 3/4” and the binding starts. Thank you for all that you do. Especially the Velcro trick and sound and heat Barrier for interior. Saved me a lot of time. Also the fact that you talk on the important teaching moments abs findings.
I couldn't get wide open with the spacer from the kit, maybe 2x on the 12 spacers to get enough height to get full open on the throttle. I built a spacer out of the old carb which took it back up to the original height. Had to make a few bends to the rod to get it right. Glad the videos are helping out with your build. Check out the carb riser video for some more rod bends. Oh I got some new lowering springs in the beginning it goes to carb riser after that.
th-cam.com/video/-0S5iWAkCvA/w-d-xo.html
@@ELDESTBuilds
Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it.
I used 2 12mm spacers including the gaskets , well 3 of them, that did the trick. The throttle force is now linear. I will have a spacer machines out of aluminum but the setup up now will work. Can’t thank you enough.
Something else on your install video, the line to the brake booster. It seems you showed the fitting for the hose on the intake manifold that came from the gulped valve. The line to the brake booster is smaller. I ended up using the brass L fitting from the old manifold, same thread size. Was there a benefit on going to a larger diameter hose? I do not want to bother you with silly questions. I just think you did an excellent job and want to understand if some of the things where to improve the performance, especially the brakes. I will make sure to ask on the correct video next time. It is amazing how much time Anyone is able to save because of your detailed videos. Really appreciate you taking the time for all the fine details. This was not a first choice car, neighborhood had it sitting in garage for a long time. Told me he had no time for it. Prior owners did a lot of little things I am untangling. Have a great evening and once again thank you for your help.
Welcome, may the wrench always turn in your favor
Thanks for this and all your other videos! I just changed the plugs on mine and found that the carburetor seems to be rich as they're all quite black. How do I lean it out a bit?
Too many variables, how old are the plugs? Are they the right heat range? How many mile on the plugs? How many miles on the motor? Is it smogged?
See where I'm going here? Good work on changing the plugs, I'd go on with the rest of a tune up before I considered leaning out a carb. Adjust the settings on the carb like in the video to best tune the car at idle. Any leaning out requires cracking the carb open and jet changes. Probably not necessary unless you made adjustments to the rotating parts.
Thanks really neat., I bought a 1967 Sport Coupe and your vids help a lot.
Glad they help
Thank you.. thank you ... thank you. Love the video very helpful how about a weber 38x38 is it the same? Kinda right.
Welcome, yes, same concept
As usual…an excellent referral video. The small “motorcycle like” K&N filter seeing at the bottom right of the video, is for what? Was it installed in place of the vacuum manifold that seats about the same location?
I have the crankcase vent running into that instead of the air cleaner.
@@ELDESTBuilds what is the benefit of using a separate filter for the crankcase? Do you remember what part number the K&N filter is?
With the new filter the opening for the crankcase ventilation is too small. I just cut the CVS hose and popped in the filler.
I've seen others running just an open hose or a filter closer to the can.
Here is the Amazon link
K&N Vent Air Filter/ Breather: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 0.75 In, Filter Height: 2 In, Flange Length: 0.875 In, Shape: Breather, 62-1160 www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WXRC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CXB6ESW1GDS9WSEBSGET?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My Son has a 1975 124 Spider with the 2-litre motor, bigger cam and dome pistons. What jets do you suggest for this upgrade? Also, great videos! Very helpful.
That sounds like a nice build. Start with what is in the carb. The best way is to hook up an Air/Fuel meter and go for a drive. When buying and changing jets stay with the same brand. The numbers aren't really universal.
Mine was running great until recently. It’s starts and revs to about 1500 RPMs as normal but then drops suddenly and turns off. It’s a fairly new Weber with maybe 300 miles on it. I’m guessing it’s not getting enough fuel and/or fuel pressure.
First, tighten all the screws on top of the carb.
Second, tighten the nuts that hold the carb to the manifold.
Check
3rd tighten the intake to head fasteners
4th check vacuum hose connections
Check
If there's any backfire thru the carb or running after key off, replace coil.
@@ELDESTBuilds , thanks! Also, there is a screw with a spring on the choke mechanism just like the idle speed screw. Do you know the baseline adjustment for this screw? I can’t find any videos explaining what that screw does. (Weber Redline 32/36 DGEV)
In general, I’ve no clue how this happened so sudden. I had just come from changing my rims to 15” from 14” and I noticed it seemed to struggle a little on my way to the store. When I got to the store, I turn the car off and it vibrated weirdly as the engine shutdown. It instantly shutdown right when letting off the gas at the stop signs. It ran so smooth and responsive before this happened lol.
@captureinsidethesound the spring screw on the choke is high idle when cold. You can set it manually to the high idle spot and adjust to about 1200 rpm
See here
th-cam.com/video/IJy3451xuu0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zR0GyZbAeYKfzghp
@captureinsidethesound I'm thinking you had some fasteners loosen up over the heat cycles. Those carb nuts, I take them off and put some loctite on there and snug them down.
If there loose it will run ok in the beginning and under WOT but there's a vacuum leak that develops when warm and it will run poorly and die off throttle.
@@ELDESTBuilds , thanks so much! I can’t get my throttle to come wide open like seen in that video link you provided. Im just going to take the whole carburetor off the intake and see if everything is working properly. I wasn’t the one who did the de-vac and installed this Weber. The guy purchased the car from stated he just went by the manual.
I’ll respond back with an update.
Hey.. great videos.. very helpful.. I just bought an 82 Fiat and it needs alot of love and attention. It was apparently FI but hasb nee converted to a carb. the carb is all jury rigged so I am going to buy a 32/36 dfev.. the question I have is where do I find that wire for the electric choke? I cannot find it anywhere. Thanks for any help.
Any key switch on 12 volt source should do. Probably a few left over from the FI system wiring
@@ELDESTBuilds Thank you...I have purchased the exact carb as you did but dont know where to get the metal linkage rod. Where did you get it from or did you have to make it?
Thank you very much as I have very little experience with carburetors. I have been trying to figure out why it is running so poorly after setting up a single plane manifold and 32/36 carb. I found the choke coil spring not even connected to the butterfly operating pin.
Glad to help out
Ever heard of an "electrical jet" part for a 32 ADFA carburetor? Told I need one and never heard of this for a 1977 124.
Sorry Mertz, I dunno what he's talking about
Maybe try Matt over at Vickauto.com
I notice that you have one of those gas filters that has a return. Where does the narrow hose come from that connected to the gas filter? Does your carb have a return?
This carb does not have a built in return. The fuel filter has a return line. It is connected to the return line to the fuel tank.
Here is a better explanation
th-cam.com/video/3AntfNVgQtw/w-d-xo.html
Hey man, super vids. Just found a '77 spider. Young local mech. installed a new carb and intake manifold gasket but the car will stall unless you keep jazzing the gas pedal. Can't get it dialed in. I'm new to fiats. Any suggestions?
Check intake side nuts and bolts for torque. Those carb nuts will sometimes rattle out of spec. Check vacuum lines for leaks. Check fuel delivery to the carb. Then set the idle screw to the rpm that keeps the car running. Now you can check the electric side, timing and advance and such.
See here for some weird ones
th-cam.com/video/t6XwiL5ZOVA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=d6TUp4QrSa8Wrsu9
Hello. Watch a lot of your videos. Question the video of u adjusting the carburetor u said u don't need that white plug going into the bottom of the breather
Sorry. The plug into the breather. What do u do with the hose that goes into it. I think there is 2 hoses. Thanks 👍
I didn't use it. The big elephant hose from the block I used a K&N filter. The hoses from the EGR side were all deleted. See here for a version that uses it. That 3 way plug came with the car
th-cam.com/video/FP1fP_yRoH4/w-d-xo.html
That was fairly simple. Now, have you aver adjusted the choke on a Weber carb with the thermo choke? instead of the electric unit it uses engine coolant to warm up the spring to open choke. My friend has 2 1976 Lancia Scorpions with the thermostatic choke on the Weber carbs and neither choke is closing . Got one of the 2 cars to run yesterday . Swapped carb from one to the other to get it running but the choke is not working properly . it stays open all the time. 1.8 L engines DOHC.
I bypassed that issue with the upgrade to the Weber 32/36 with electric choke. I'll have to take a look at the old carb to see if I can figure anything out for you.
@@ELDESTBuilds Thank you sir. We have the 32 DATR 100 CARBS. ONE PER CAR.
Thanks for the video - I have the same carb. On the opposite side of the carburetor on the base plate there is another screw that looks just like the idle mixture. Do you know what that’s for?
There are so many variations from different makes, models, years, hard to know.
This may be helpful
www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp
@@ELDESTBuilds I found the model number and was able to find the specific sheet on the Weber site for my carb. On mine the idle mix is separate for each barrel - they’re both idle mix. TY for answering
@AdamAnthonyAdventures excellent news, I kinda thot that, likey on the Holley carbs, but wasn't sure.
You’re setting idle mixture screw before the choke butterflies have opened. Is that right?
wait till it is fully warmed up but 1.5 to 2 turns is normal
I have a 78 Spider and got a new Weber carburetor with heater hose choke, i was able start it and adjusted it, took it for a 30mn. drive and then when I came to a stop it shut off and wouldn't start, until it cooled down and opened the throttle but then it turned off again!?😮
Check screws top of carb and nuts carb to manifold
Thank you
Welcome
Did you have to adjust the floats at all? How much fuel pressure are you running?
I did not have to adjust the floats, brand new out of the box setup. The fuel pump is electric and runs 3-5 psi.
@@ELDESTBuilds Nice. Did you adjust any jets by any chance?
There wasn't a need to. Stock motor with a header. In the first drive video, I was running an air/fuel meter hooked up to an O2 sensor. Everything was in the green.
I have a Weber carburetor 32/36 on A Suzuki samurai 1.3 engine. It run very high rich smell like unburned crude fuel. Also consume a lot of gas. Do you know what could be the cause, or a least where to start.
Thank you
Start with the basics, how are the spark plugs? Check ignition timing? Any vacuum leaks? Adjust carb settings to base, clean fuel bowls and jets.
@@ELDESTBuilds
No vacuum leaks , Timing degree had been check . I will do what just told me to see if any improvement
Thank you for your help and information.
I love it thanks brotha
Welcome
I just purchased a Weber carb for 1971 fiat 124. I’m missing something because it’s my understanding that the electric choke opens the butterflies as it warms up, when you shut down the vehicle and the car cools, the butterflies should slowly close.
So the car sits overnight, I turn key on but not over, tap on the accelerator once and car should start right up with the choke engaged. Correct? I’m manually having to open the filter and wiggle the butterflies shut in order to start.
Make sure electric choke is adjusted to open, and gets 12 volts.
@@ELDESTBuilds thank you, how do you like the vicks aluminum radiator vs the standard radiator? Is it worth the extra money?
This is Texas, it's hot, better safe than stranded. So far it runs great. A little bit of fitment adjustments but worth it. Maybe just upgradimg the fan to a larger more efficient style will work if your not 7 inches from the sun.
@@ELDESTBuilds I live in St. Pete Florida, so I understand. My water pump jut went out today, literally….radiator is ancient so I decided to replace the thermostat, hoses while I’m at it and was thinking about replacing the radiator and adding a new electric fan. Any thoughts? Suggestions….
The Texas Heat radiator bolts on and they supply the hoses. Just have to make room in the bottom bracket. The larger 14 inch fan keeps it cool for sure. Just need to be comfortable with splicing in the bare wires.
Thank you so much for sharing all your practical knowledge shared in a way Novices like me can be successful. BTW in reply to your email a bit ago. The Russian Transmission direct swap is still working great. 500+ mile trip to an Auto show (+ now broken in) it is tighter and better than the 54K original trans it replaced. Orig trans. was good in all gears but sloppy due to rubber degradation is my guess...Any one who wants a low mileage orig. trans that only needs new rubber. let me know. thanks Andreas
Welcome, glad the videos helped
You in the us?
Texas
@@robertgavigan8191 yep. I’m in the Kankakee, Illinois area. I have a place in Chgo. Too.
@@Andreasb0ss1 damn, that transmission would be nice af but I live in New Mexico rip
Nice one! Cheers
Thanks, working on a timing video also
Out of curiosity, what’s the round air cleaner to the lower backside of the carb?
Filter for the oil canister hose. See here
th-cam.com/video/MCE1HNZ5k_g/w-d-xo.html
Where do you get the throttle linkage. Or do you bend it in a vice to get it to work with the 32 36
Bend it up, to make it fit
You can also cut it and run a die to make new threads. I had to do that on the 1980 about the 9 minute mark on this video
th-cam.com/video/t6XwiL5ZOVA/w-d-xo.html
What happens if you accidentally take out the 3screaws and it fully un windsv and pops out and off and now when you hook it up it makes some crazy snapping sound and I can't get it to stop snapping and the butterfly's wont open unless I apply some crazy force behind it and it sounds like it's f****ed
All is not lost. There is an exploded diagram of the carb assembly that shows the proper assembly of the choke mechanism.
Also, it is possible to remove all the choke assembly and run without but requires disassembly of the carb to remove the rod and flap. Then you would just use the give it two or three pumps and start it.
Wha does it mean when my idle mix screw doesn’t have any response. IE idle mixture screw is seated and it doesnt want to die. If backed up no change in rpm.
Two things are most likely, first is the throttle screw is too much, engine rpms too high and idle screw is bypassed by the butterflys. Second is the port is blocked and needs a cleaning.
Idle mix is only for low rpms, less than 1k+/- then the butterflys open and it gets the juice from the jets.
Now that I have my running I cannot for the life of me get it to not run rich, I have tried adjusting both the idle speed and idle air mixture, anything else I can try? It’s an empi aftermarket carb
Those do not effect lean/rich. They just make it idle right. Set timing to 10° BTDC, make sure all the carb nuts are tight and take it on a high speed run, like the cops are chasing you. Then pull the plugs and see.
Smelling gas doesn't mean running rich.
Do you have to set the choke again when it gets colder out?
I'm gonna say no. If anything it would be a little more closed from the bimetal shrink. Will probably come off choke about the same rate.
Hey there…I know it’s been a while, but…do you happen to know or have a clue why a Weber 32/36 could backfired under load conditions? Mine has started to act up…but it goes away once I’ve been driving for about 15/20min, and it comes back after engine has been off for at least 3 to 4 hours…oh!, and have giving it a tune up: replaced all gaskets and membranes. Thx!
Check ignition timing and advance components inside the distributor
Great. Thx…But, why will these go “out of line” if nothing has been done to them?
There is a rubber diaphragm inside the vacuum advance. Under the rotor there are springs and weights. All require maintenance from time to time.
My fuel filter does not have 3 lines coming out. I have gas in and out. Where does the 3rd line go coming out of your filter? And what filter are you using?
This is for the Weber without the fuel return. The other outlet goes to the the fuel return line back to the tank.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9UJAA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
th-cam.com/video/3AntfNVgQtw/w-d-xo.html
Hello... what jets do you have this carburetor? 32/36 weber Main ... idle... jets ...emulsion tube...air correctors... and pump jet... please
They are pretty standard from Vickauto.com
Mains 137p 140s
Idle 50p 60s
Emulsion tube 50p 65s
Air corrector 160p 165s
Pump jet 55
@@ELDESTBuilds thank you Very much !! 🙂
@@marekbenes8512 welcome, enjoy your build
is this carburetor suitable for a 1.8 engine?
@@marekbenes8512 should suit it nicely
My distributor does not have a vacuum line off of it, where should I hook up the carbs vacuum too? Is it necessary to hook it up to something
No vacuum advance, you can plug any open vacuum ports on the carburetor.
@@ELDESTBuilds could it not being plugged cause it not to start? My engine has compression, spark and fuel so I’m really confused
It would fire, just run rough from the vacuum leak.
No fire, may be an ignition timing issue. Check with timing light while cranking to make adjustments
I have two timing vids available
I have a 79 wiht the stock 28/35 ADHA, If i want to change carb do I have to change the intake too?
Changing the intake is not required
@@ELDESTBuilds so if I go the route of getting a 32/36 what should I do about all those vacuum line that mine has? Just cap them?
From my understanding you're in Texas right?
You can cap the extra lines. I'm in Texas
@@Pislui see here
th-cam.com/video/FP1fP_yRoH4/w-d-xo.html
What carb do you suggest for a 1975 fiat 124 spider?
This is the one in the video.
www.vickauto.com/FIAT-PARTS/FIAT-124/2000-and-131/Brava-Parts/Performance/32/36-DFEV-Carb-Conversion-Kit-Fiat-124/2000-SKU-30-0331
But if you really want to know
www.vickauto.com/FIAT-PARTS/FIAT-124/2000-and-131/Brava-Parts/Performance/Carb-Conversion-Kit-Dual-40-IDF-Fiat-124/2000-SKU-30-0333