The extra thin cement isn't cement at all. It's solvent. The solvent dissolves the plastic and allows the two parts to weld together as the solvent evaporates.
... if you are a hard-core modeller you can save a lot of money, when you brew your glue DIY ... you just have to order 1 Liter of Butylacetat at your next pharmacy and 1 Liter of Aceton ... mix them together 1:1 and you've got enough glue for the next years. That brew works similar than Tamiya Extrathin ... smells the same and you could re-activate your dried out putty, to give them a second life. That's all together for about 20 Euro or a liitle less in US Dollars !!
I tack tail lights, chrome trim, etc. with a spot of Elmer's white glue & then secure with Tamiya extra thin...Elmer's white glue can be removed with a damp cloth without worry of too much solvent cement marring adjacent surfaces...
Thanks for this, i had a loose joint on my Gundam model kit and i have been looking around and this confused me, now i know that Normal Cement is better for loose joint since i need the thickness.
thank bra... Im starting again and iIm 38yrs old lol.. and we didnt have these back then when I started and using the testors red glue sucked lol.. and I just did a car model with crazy glue it came out ugly.. thank you again mahalo...
I don't know which crazy glue you use, but the crazy glue i use will leave a white fog around the part, also crazy glue don't give me enough time to adjust the part into position.
It's great for resin figures, but you can't sand it. It's basically latex caulk. If you're filling seams and flaws on a styrene model, it's best to use a putty made with solvent that softens the plastic slightly, so the putty bonds to the plastic. My go-to putties are Tamiya gray putty or 3M Acryl Blue glazing putty, found in auto parts or auto body paint stores. That 3M sands to a beautiful feather edge. I tried sanding Vallejo once and it peeled off of the plastic and balled up.
The regular cement stays where it's put. The extra thin runs capillary into every crack and orifice. Which is better? It depends. I've found with aircraft (all I build) that about 66% of the time the extra thin is better for whatever my application. Sometimes though the regular cement is obviously the better choice i.e. aircraft cowlings and nose cones, and any clear piece of plastic for a few. For the really sensitive stuff like canopy pieces I prefer Micro Kristol Klear. So I have three different glues, all have their place.
_its sooo hard to listen this guy_ Yeah, had somebody introduced the words _liquid_ and _viscous_ into his vocabulary this video would've been 5 times shorter.
don't know which crazy glue you use, but the crazy glue i use will leave a white fog around the part, also crazy glue don't give me enough time to adjust the part into position.
how about diffrence for tamiya cement (the labble white) and tamiya ca instant cement for rubber tire, im on way to build tamiya kit tundra and at gear section thats require tamiya ca instant cement
That is NOT the main purpose of the extra thin. The extra thin cement has a much better and more practical use that you obviously are unaware of. Also, if you are going to do tutorials, don't show people that you touch wet cement with your fingers, and try using tweezers for applying small parts.
Depends on which small parts, exterior rear view mirror, I use my fingers to apply it, my finger can't damage the paint job, tweezer will. The main point of this cement is quick dry, but if you watch the I also point out the other advantages of this cement.
Do you drink coca cola? Pretty sure that is more dangerous than a bit of glue. It does stink sure but just open a window and dont drink the stuff! I am just testing out this Extra thin on some GW Space Wolfs. Not bad, massive jar for the price, seems like it will last ages. Oh and use PVA glue for any clear plastic canopies.
Krizzle Sizzle thanks for the comment, i am sure this is my last comment, because i've been drinking coke for a long time. I should be dead by........ now. But coke is just too dam good and got me thought some bad times. Either way thanks for watching and the support
Plastic kit freak Yeah buddy I have drank it myself for nearly 20+years with no adverse health affects. Granted I only have 1 or 2 cans per day max. My comment was just tongue in cheek humour really at "Samljer" for not opening his glue again due to scary warnings! As long as your not drinking the pot I dont see any issues. So far I am impressed with the extra thin and will be buying normal cement. I dont make Tamiya models but I use most Tamiya tools and glues. All amazing IMO.
Don't glue painted plastic with this cement. This is for assembly of unpainted styrene. Once parts are painted, if I need to assemble them - such as landing gear parts- I use thick CA, five-minute epoxy, or Gator Grip glue. Either way, edges that are joined should be unpainted or have the paint scraped away first.
For scratches use 800 to 1000 grid sand paper to remove it. If weld, use crazy glue, these cement will shrink and expand due to the atmosphere, then you'll see a bubble or a gap that you filled
@@plastickitfreak2343 I used Loctite the Adhesive Bond as a putty, filling gaps and scratched surface. Then I use 400-800 or 1000 grit to smooth it out.
TrainerRubyCheah the white one I usually use it for the not exposing parts, such as chassis, cockpit. I like to use the green one for the lights and on the rear view mirror. it's better to get them both
Okay, one last question. For gluing car bodies, I should use the white bottle? BTW for the GT86 for the RocketBunny flares, I should use the green bottle or the white one...
H20 Lacrosse it will for sure, that's how they bond together. use a toothpick tip some cement and apply on to the part, the brush might mess your part up or a thin paint brush
The white one, apply a small amount on the mating surface with a tooth pick. Do some testing on some parts first get the feel of it. Tamiya doesn't fog up, crazy glue fogs up
Nick they both do dry clear, but white one would leave a really thick glue mark on what ever you apply on. The green one would leave a mark as well, but you really have to look for that mark, the only way for it to leave a mark is by applying way to much. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question. You can look for me on FB by the name Kits Kits Fanz, we can talk there as well
Wow man, learn to talk, think beforehand what you want to say, don't repeat yourself the whole time and don't say "err" or "uhm" every three seconds. It ruins your video.
KasKas I know, I know, I lost my train of thoughts from time to time. I get nervous also. thanks for the advice. one thing that surprise me is that this video is most view, odd isn't it 🙄
I think it was fine and super helpful (I'm about to glue a lot of figures together). I came here to learn the difference between 2 types of model glue, not a TED talk.
hey guys, i agree, our pkf guy did it ok.i think this kaskas creature should do the same review in japanese, i wonder how far he gets. thanks pkf, we love you.
Review-wise what KasKas said is true. More fluid talk is more easy-to-the-ear, though sometimes it's hard to do, nervous, etc. Why everyone just argue about good advice. This is for the sake of PKF too, why not?! For PKF, you can also try to add the audio later after you record the mute video (if nervous is the case), you can re-edit as much as you want with that.
you know its very funny that you say tamiya extra thin cement is not thinner,but i hate to break it to you my friend TAMIYA EXTRA THIN IS EXACTLY THAT LAQUER THINNER people in the know will actually buy tamiya x20 thinner and use it as tamiya extra thin cement because you get a larger container for cheaper cost,tamiya extra thin and tamiya x20 laquer thinner are the exact same ingredients look it up amigo
dont use these on paint. its for plastic on plastic application paint really affects the bond. use the thiun for capilery joins and the thick for parts and sand doan or cut away excess with blades..
OMG!!! ... Sorry but ... Using ANY kind of solvent based glue to gluing clear parts from the kit is quite...ehm... Unusual (if not stupid) ... Solvent based glues contains toluene, which acts like strong acid on some kinds of plastic ( including polystyrene, yeah.. material which are most of plastic kits made from). Even fumes may soften and destroy clear plastic . Especially Extrathin - although vaporizes quite fast - is really agressive because it contains much more toluene than standard type (that´s why is so thin ) and is really difficult to controll while spreads through seams what causes damage of canopies/headlights/any kind of clear polystyrene parts , which is difficult to fix and sometimes impossible ... 2 parts epoxy , Humbrol ClearFix, Testors Clear Parts Cement or any kind of odourless superglue is way you should go my friend. Keep those solvents for stadnard parts. Clear parts needs more carefull approach.Sorry for my english folks.
I think the one you are refering to crazy glue. Crazy glue does leave fog. Ive use tamiya cement for a long time for the clear parts, its works fine with me, leaves me no marks, unless i touch the part with it. But i know some people use paste for the clear parts, you could give that a try also. By the way alot of builders use the tamiya glue for the clear parts and they have no problem with it
No, I´ve never heard about Crazy Glue (or Krazy Glue? That is what Mr. Google found about this product...) till today. In Slovakia we don´t have this brand. From what I read about it, it´s just absolute ordinary Super Glue (or CA - Cyano-Acrylate). It´s obvious, that Super Glues leaving fog on on clear parts, this is the way how they works, fast chemical reaction is even visible. As i can see in your video from around 5:20 till 7:30, when you brushed glue into seam between rear light and body of your EVO, clear plastic starts to react with solvent almost instantly and the fog mark is clearly visible around edges. This situation does not occure with adhesives which I mentioned before. Never . On the other side, all depends on quality which you want to reach... For me, this result is unacceptable because joint must be clean an sharp with no marks... Your not. But it´s just my opinion, I´m not car builder, I´m making planes. But the car kits of this scale deserves paying higher attention to detail... Happy modeling.
+Samuel Francúz I thought so too, when I watched the vid - I thought the glue was ghosting on the headlight, but I watched it again and I don't think it did. If you watch you can see that ghosting look even at 4:30 when he didn't even apply the glue to the part yet. I think that's the reflection of the silver body showing through and it looks like that red paint/red tape wasn't painted carefully. Almost looked like there was a gap in the color.Maybe he wanted the headlight to look a little worn or maybe his fingers took some of the color off so that some of the silver color showed through it.
+Samuel Francúz Krazy Glue, in the modelers' world, is also called Zap-A-Gap. Same thing. Most modelers know this already, but I don't see it mentioned specifically by name, so I thought I'd add that little tidbit of info for anyone who might not already know.
+Plastic kit freak Crazy glue = cyanoacrylate. Yes it causes fogging. Trick I have seen is to dip the windshield or other piece in mop liquid such as Future Floor Finish then use small amounts of CA. There are also adhesives specifically for clear parts like Microscale Krystal Klear and Pacer "Formula 560" Canopy glue which I believe are PVA glues (polyvinyl acetate).
Good video. I get what you mean but I use extra thin for joining the main car body panels. It is meant to run because it uses what is known as capillary action same as the panel line accent. It is meant to flow along the join area thats why the thin is different
Hey, i need help on this tamiya cement stuff! I bought a 1:12 nsx model that was very expensive. I dont want to damage it in any way. Do these cements damage the parts? I mean if i glue together some of the interior part i dont want that the cement harm the plastic. I think the odel is ABS plastis. thanks
This might be a bit too late, but abs plastic has a different cement than the ones he used on this vid.. also the way these cement work they melt the plastic as the fused together for stronger bond
Noooo!!! Don't use it on windows. It will etch it and you will see it. Use canopy glue, gloss mod podge, or even Elmer's glue for windows. You'll thank me later.
Each to there own but this isn't really the purpose/only or even best use of extra thin. Look on TH-cam for a review of tamiya extra thin and the guy will show you is real potential. It's a wedding cement. And yes, it should dry clear on a canopy but don't take my word for it ask google.
I live in Hong Kong. The Hong Kong Environmental Department no longer allow Tamiya glue to sell in the public because it's toxic. Now I can only buy Mr.Hobby glue for my model kits here.
no no no. It will just make it "greasy". If you want to thin Testors , go to a paint store and buy a can of MEK. But be careful using it...the fumes'll get ya!
6 years later and it’s still helpful. Thanks 🙏
Thx, 6 years already, time flies when you are having fun
The extra thin cement isn't cement at all. It's solvent.
The solvent dissolves the plastic and allows the two parts to weld together as the solvent evaporates.
Chris Smith
A cement is a substance used to put two things together permanently, it can be a solvent, glue or adhesive.
"I Like To Use This One On Body Parts" .....WARNING DO NOT use as Lube!! :D lol
What is a lube
Nice joke. But wouldn't actually work like that
@@King_Ancalagon it's what you use when mommy feels lonely.
The Voice Lag on this guy is reel good.
... if you are a hard-core modeller you can save a lot of money, when you brew your glue DIY ... you just have to order 1 Liter of Butylacetat at your next pharmacy and 1 Liter of Aceton ... mix them together 1:1 and you've got enough glue for the next years. That brew works similar than Tamiya Extrathin ... smells the same and you could re-activate your dried out putty, to give them a second life. That's all together for about 20 Euro or a liitle less in US Dollars !!
Extra thin is great for military and GW models.
This is absolutely the best way to use those products, thank you!
Thanks
also use pva glue which dries clear on clear plastic parts like lights and windows as the cement stains painted parts.
Thank you for this clear video,from Spain.
Thx , I get a lot of mostly bad feed back from this video. But thx, very kind of you
I tack tail lights, chrome trim, etc. with a spot of Elmer's white glue & then secure with Tamiya extra thin...Elmer's white glue can be removed with a damp cloth without worry of too much solvent cement marring adjacent surfaces...
Thanks for this, i had a loose joint on my Gundam model kit and i have been looking around and this confused me, now i know that Normal Cement is better for loose joint since i need the thickness.
@@jeremyfusenliu3859 thx
Forgot to add that one is a welding cement (extra thin) the other is a gap filler. But check out the other article
after 8 years i'm still looking for this video
Thanks, i really want to make more, but have no time
thank bra... Im starting again and iIm 38yrs old lol.. and we didnt have these back then when I started and using the testors red glue sucked lol.. and I just did a car model with crazy glue it came out ugly.. thank you again mahalo...
thanks, I am glad this helps
I don't know which crazy glue you use, but the crazy glue i use will leave a white fog around the part, also crazy glue don't give me enough time to adjust the part into position.
Use slower cure for less fogging, and a slow cure gel kind is great.
Micro Kristal Klear isn’t bad for clear plastic canopies/windows.
liquid putty from vallejo for gaps and holes is way better than using glue also its water bases so can be thinned with water..
It's great for resin figures, but you can't sand it. It's basically latex caulk. If you're filling seams and flaws on a styrene model, it's best to use a putty made with solvent that softens the plastic slightly, so the putty bonds to the plastic. My go-to putties are Tamiya gray putty or 3M Acryl Blue glazing putty, found in auto parts or auto body paint stores. That 3M sands to a beautiful feather edge. I tried sanding Vallejo once and it peeled off of the plastic and balled up.
The regular cement stays where it's put. The extra thin runs capillary into every crack and orifice. Which is better? It depends. I've found with aircraft (all I build) that about 66% of the time the extra thin is better for whatever my application. Sometimes though the regular cement is obviously the better choice i.e. aircraft cowlings and nose cones, and any clear piece of plastic for a few. For the really sensitive stuff like canopy pieces I prefer Micro Kristol Klear. So I have three different glues, all have their place.
Thank you for this informative video!
its sooo hard to listen this guy
might want to use the cement before doing your paint job
_its sooo hard to listen this guy_
Yeah, had somebody introduced the words _liquid_ and _viscous_ into his vocabulary this video would've been 5 times shorter.
@@marklazio11 Why be a a$$ hole dude!
when the body parts (or any parts) have already been painted, I prefer using crazy glue. the cement will "melt" the paint.
don't know which crazy glue you use, but the crazy glue i use will leave a white fog around the part, also crazy glue don't give me enough time to adjust the part into position.
Tamiya extra thin melts the plastic parts a bit faster than the tamiya cement
Thanks this helped a lot, didn't know which one to choose from :D
the smmount of times i had to buy new ones as the lids get cemented tight ha ha
I like Tamiya, yeah.
What we'll happen if you got some on your skin
nice video man, it helped!
chunkn0rris thx buddy
Do I need cement at all all for my Tamiya Racing Fighter wheels? Is Instant Cement better? Thanks.
Thank you for this :)
Just so helpful
Thanks, can't make videos these days, got married have kid
may i ask those two cemeents are dry fast? i buy orange bottle normal cement recent, i use for gundam broke crack.
can you use tamiya cement for glue tires together for onroad? or should i get another glue for that?
Ashok not recommend
Hi , I want to know when I glue the clear part like window , which brand of glue is perfect , thank you!
little bit of the white one on the edge of the window, then use the green one (little bit) on the edge as well to seal the deal.
Thank you very much
how about diffrence for tamiya cement (the labble white) and tamiya ca instant cement for rubber tire,
im on way to build tamiya kit tundra and at gear section thats require tamiya ca instant cement
That is NOT the main purpose of the extra thin. The extra thin cement has a much better and more practical use that you obviously are unaware of. Also, if you are going to do tutorials, don't show people that you touch wet cement with your fingers, and try using tweezers for applying small parts.
Depends on which small parts, exterior rear view mirror, I use my fingers to apply it, my finger can't damage the paint job, tweezer will.
The main point of this cement is quick dry, but if you watch the I also point out the other advantages of this cement.
@@plastickitfreak2343 You still missed what the thin cement was intended for, what it's main use is.
these glues are brutally dangerous.
cancer warnings, death warnings, etc.
i havent opened it since i got it.
and I am a risk taker and so is everyone else who builds models
Do you drink coca cola? Pretty sure that is more dangerous than a bit of glue. It does stink sure but just open a window and dont drink the stuff! I am just testing out this Extra thin on some GW Space Wolfs. Not bad, massive jar for the price, seems like it will last ages. Oh and use PVA glue for any clear plastic canopies.
Krizzle Sizzle thanks for the comment, i am sure this is my last comment, because i've been drinking coke for a long time. I should be dead by........ now. But coke is just too dam good and got me thought some bad times. Either way thanks for watching and the support
Plastic kit freak Yeah buddy I have drank it myself for nearly 20+years with no adverse health affects. Granted I only have 1 or 2 cans per day max. My comment was just tongue in cheek humour really at "Samljer" for not opening his glue again due to scary warnings! As long as your not drinking the pot I dont see any issues. So far I am impressed with the extra thin and will be buying normal cement. I dont make Tamiya models but I use most Tamiya tools and glues. All amazing IMO.
realizing super glue is the preferred glue for resin model is there a Tamiya glue a better option? thank you for your reply.
respectfully'
Brian
resin is super glue tamiya is for plastics
How do you prevent the brush from picking up paint and then discolouring the rest of the glue in the bottle?
Don't glue painted plastic with this cement. This is for assembly of unpainted styrene. Once parts are painted, if I need to assemble them - such as landing gear parts- I use thick CA, five-minute epoxy, or Gator Grip glue. Either way, edges that are joined should be unpainted or have the paint scraped away first.
which one is stronger, tamiya cement or tamiya extra thin cement???
especially when you want to fix a broken part together...
Regular tamiya cement is stronger
I bought the extra thin 😞
What should i do if my tank model kit is using rubber tracks?
Not sure, these cement are use for plastic, I never tried it with rubber.
Quick question should I use the white or green bottle for the Gt86 RocketBunny kit?
TrainerRubyCheah use both of them
NO SHIT SHERLOCK. FUCKIN HELL I DID NOT REALIZE THIS !
Can you use them to cover the scratch surface and then sand them nicely? Same as plastic weld?
For scratches use 800 to 1000 grid sand paper to remove it. If weld, use crazy glue, these cement will shrink and expand due to the atmosphere, then you'll see a bubble or a gap that you filled
@@plastickitfreak2343 I used Loctite the Adhesive Bond as a putty, filling gaps and scratched surface. Then I use 400-800 or 1000 grit to smooth it out.
@@plastickitfreak2343 I also covered the Tamiya Cement with Adhesive bond of Loctite to cover it.
Which one should I get if I'm new to plastic modelling.I just started a week ago.
The 2 Musketeers
Start off with the white one 1st, get the feel of it. Then Use my video as reference and see if it might be useful for you
Plastic kit freak thx,your one of the few youtubers I know who actually reply to coments.You earned yourself a new Subscriber
Are either of these good for joints on gunpla? Broke both shoulder joins of my MG Astray Red Frame.
Both are good. Use a little of the white one to set the spot, wait for a little while, then use the green one to fully harden it
@@plastickitfreak2343 thanks for reply! Gonna give it a try!
Soooooo...... I would need both?? I already have the extra thin cement for my Aoshima prepainted GTR...
TrainerRubyCheah the white one I usually use it for the not exposing parts, such as chassis, cockpit. I like to use the green one for the lights and on the rear view mirror. it's better to get them both
Great! I already the green one from earlier this year, I'll buy the white one from Taiwan from eBay. Thanks!
Okay, one last question. For gluing car bodies, I should use the white bottle? BTW for the GT86 for the RocketBunny flares, I should use the green bottle or the white one...
Does this dissolve the plastic a little bit at first then bonds (Normal)? I'm using this on a model train on a smaller piece
H20 Lacrosse it will for sure, that's how they bond together. use a toothpick tip some cement and apply on to the part, the brush might mess your part up or a thin paint brush
Plastic kit freak hello, can I request for you to do a tutorial vid on how to fix a broken peg, particularly on MG sinanju's waist peg?
can it be used as a gloss finish?
NO! But one of my friend tried it once and it doesn't work.
That these cement does is melt plastic, so it can't be use as a finish
@@plastickitfreak2343 is cool i found the clear gloss anyways
The extra thin is more stronger than the normalone
What glue should I use to bond clear parts without it fogging?
The white one, apply a small amount on the mating surface with a tooth pick. Do some testing on some parts first get the feel of it. Tamiya doesn't fog up, crazy glue fogs up
Ok so mek will kill my kidneys which are already dead so I pass on the mek. Thanks
Does this dry clear
Nick
they both do dry clear, but white one would leave a really thick glue mark on what ever you apply on. The green one would leave a mark as well, but you really have to look for that mark, the only way for it to leave a mark is by applying way to much. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question.
You can look for me on FB by the name Kits Kits Fanz, we can talk there as well
so boring, jesus, hurry little bit
Wow man, learn to talk, think beforehand what you want to say, don't repeat yourself the whole time and don't say "err" or "uhm" every three seconds. It ruins your video.
KasKas I know, I know, I lost my train of thoughts from time to time. I get nervous also. thanks for the advice. one thing that surprise me is that this video is most view, odd isn't it 🙄
I think it was fine and super helpful (I'm about to glue a lot of figures together). I came here to learn the difference between 2 types of model glue, not a TED talk.
hey guys, i agree, our pkf guy did it ok.i think this kaskas creature
should do the same review in japanese, i wonder how far he gets.
thanks pkf, we love you.
He was high on glue, give him a BREAK!!!😵 🤣
Review-wise what KasKas said is true. More fluid talk is more easy-to-the-ear, though sometimes it's hard to do, nervous, etc. Why everyone just argue about good advice. This is for the sake of PKF too, why not?!
For PKF, you can also try to add the audio later after you record the mute video (if nervous is the case), you can re-edit as much as you want with that.
you know its very funny that you say tamiya extra thin cement is not thinner,but i hate to break it to you my friend TAMIYA EXTRA THIN IS EXACTLY THAT LAQUER THINNER people in the know will actually buy tamiya x20 thinner and use it as tamiya extra thin cement because you get a larger container for cheaper cost,tamiya extra thin and tamiya x20 laquer thinner are the exact same ingredients look it up amigo
dont use these on paint. its for plastic on plastic application paint really affects the bond. use the thiun for capilery joins and the thick for parts and sand doan or cut away excess with blades..
Thanks for the clearification!
thank you so much
OMG!!! ... Sorry but ... Using ANY kind of solvent based glue to gluing clear parts from the kit is quite...ehm... Unusual (if not stupid) ... Solvent based glues contains toluene, which acts like strong acid on some kinds of plastic ( including polystyrene, yeah.. material which are most of plastic kits made from). Even fumes may soften and destroy clear plastic . Especially Extrathin - although vaporizes quite fast - is really agressive because it contains much more toluene than standard type (that´s why is so thin ) and is really difficult to controll while spreads through seams what causes damage of canopies/headlights/any kind of clear polystyrene parts , which is difficult to fix and sometimes impossible ... 2 parts epoxy , Humbrol ClearFix, Testors Clear Parts Cement or any kind of odourless superglue is way you should go my friend. Keep those solvents for stadnard parts. Clear parts needs more carefull approach.Sorry for my english folks.
I think the one you are refering to crazy glue. Crazy glue does leave fog. Ive use tamiya cement for a long time for the clear parts, its works fine with me, leaves me no marks, unless i touch the part with it. But i know some people use paste for the clear parts, you could give that a try also. By the way alot of builders use the tamiya glue for the clear parts and they have no problem with it
No, I´ve never heard about Crazy Glue (or Krazy Glue? That is what Mr. Google found about this product...) till today. In Slovakia we don´t have this brand. From what I read about it, it´s just absolute ordinary Super Glue (or CA - Cyano-Acrylate). It´s obvious, that Super Glues leaving fog on on clear parts, this is the way how they works, fast chemical reaction is even visible. As i can see in your video from around 5:20 till 7:30, when you brushed glue into seam between rear light and body of your EVO, clear plastic starts to react with solvent almost instantly and the fog mark is clearly visible around edges. This situation does not occure with adhesives which I mentioned before. Never . On the other side, all depends on quality which you want to reach... For me, this result is unacceptable because joint must be clean an sharp with no marks... Your not. But it´s just my opinion, I´m not car builder, I´m making planes. But the car kits of this scale deserves paying higher attention to detail... Happy modeling.
+Samuel Francúz I thought so too, when I watched the vid - I thought the glue was ghosting on the headlight, but I watched it again and I don't think it did. If you watch you can see that ghosting look even at 4:30 when he didn't even apply the glue to the part yet. I think that's the reflection of the silver body showing through and it looks like that red paint/red tape wasn't painted carefully. Almost looked like there was a gap in the color.Maybe he wanted the headlight to look a little worn or maybe his fingers took some of the color off so that some of the silver color showed through it.
+Samuel Francúz Krazy Glue, in the modelers' world, is also called Zap-A-Gap. Same thing. Most modelers know this already, but I don't see it mentioned specifically by name, so I thought I'd add that little tidbit of info for anyone who might not already know.
+Plastic kit freak Crazy glue = cyanoacrylate. Yes it causes fogging.
Trick I have seen is to dip the windshield or other piece in mop liquid such as Future Floor Finish then use small amounts of CA. There are also adhesives specifically for clear parts like Microscale Krystal Klear and Pacer "Formula 560" Canopy glue which I believe are PVA glues (polyvinyl acetate).
Good video. I get what you mean but I use extra thin for joining the main car body panels. It is meant to run because it uses what is known as capillary action same as the panel line accent. It is meant to flow along the join area thats why the thin is different
so much stuttering and weird words
But alot of people like this video
Thank you your explanation really helped me!
Hey, i need help on this tamiya cement stuff! I bought a 1:12 nsx model that was very expensive. I dont want to damage it in any way. Do these cements damage the parts? I mean if i glue together some of the interior part i dont want that the cement harm the plastic. I think the odel is ABS plastis. thanks
This might be a bit too late, but abs plastic has a different cement than the ones he used on this vid.. also the way these cement work they melt the plastic as the fused together for stronger bond
Extra thin is supposed to dry fast after 2 days. I guess I will use it on windows since using tube glue is a bad idea.
Noooo!!! Don't use it on windows. It will etch it and you will see it. Use canopy glue, gloss mod podge, or even Elmer's glue for windows. You'll thank me later.
@@nismojukerich2994 I thank you now and will use your ideas. I have glues that are just crap..
Each to there own but this isn't really the purpose/only or even best use of extra thin. Look on TH-cam for a review of tamiya extra thin and the guy will show you is real potential. It's a wedding cement. And yes, it should dry clear on a canopy but don't take my word for it ask google.
+Benedict Morgan You must mean welding and not wedding.
Good grief...... Lol , thanks
+Mark S haha! oh my - puts a whole new spin on couples being "glued at the hip."
I have only every used Plastruct cement weld so how does it compare to Tamiya's cement?
I live in Hong Kong. The Hong Kong Environmental Department no longer allow Tamiya glue to sell in the public because it's toxic. Now I can only buy Mr.Hobby glue for my model kits here.
Really? So where can I buy the tamiya glue now?
OK< Thanks, I will buy another brand then.
chun hung hardy mung chun hung hardy mung Come on that's BS, I just bought a Tamiya cement for getting rid of seam line
I've never gotten dizzy listening to someone speak. Terrible video!
But the most surprising part about this video is that is the most watched
At the same time, I am really short of breath when I talk, also I have million things I want to talk about. That's why some video are a disaster
If I add paint thinner to testers cement, will it spread easier?
not sure, never try it before
no no no. It will just make it "greasy". If you want to thin Testors , go to a paint store and buy a can of MEK. But be careful using it...the fumes'll get ya!
Does the extra thin bond well?
what is the drying time for the white cap cement?
Anthony Rubbertoe 4hrs
oh jeez thats a long time. Thanks though!