Absolute God send. I know I'm over a decade late to this but, I'm reviving my old 94' Mazda Protege for my younger brother's first car. Wanted to make sure it would be all set for him. Thank you so much for the detailed explanation as well as cutting right to the chase instead of 5 minutes of talking.
Thank you so much for this! I looked everywhere and could not find a decent tutorial. No way I am paying a shop $300 for doing my brakes when I can do it myself only spending about $60 in parts. You are my hero!
EXCEPTIONAL VIDEO!!!!! other people, not just mechanics should watch your video to know how to do one (especially because you used a tripod... thank you!!!) It was well organized, to the point (not too much talking) great use of time! Thanks again
I wish @7:45 you would have shown "move that adjuster back". I did not see what the adjuster looks like or which direction you move it. Also @0:25 there is a THIRD screw hole in the drum. It is there for inserting a correct bolt into & as it's turned in it helps push the drum off (so us 60 year olds don't have to "beat the crap outta it" lol). Overall, helpful vid.
Great Video indeed! I watched it 2 times to make sure I knew what I was doing before I did it.. One trick that I used was to make a map of where the parts go as I removed them off the car, this way I could put the new parts back on in the right place. Also, the drum was really tight in the rear right. I drove it like that for a day then went back to adjust the brake. I assume it was rubbing on the back plate. everything working like a charm now.. thanks again!
@crj19851985 are you kidding? what more do u want from the guy, u want him to come change ur brakes for u? This is the most detailed tutorial you'll find, if u have anything better i'd love to see it. Thanx for the amazing tutorial happywrenching.
thank you so much for this vdieo...my bro needed help on this exact car and we got it done.. it seemed that drums are the worst to handle but when its explained the right way like you did its all the difference. again thanks for the help. nothing like doing it urself these days
@duckmage2140 you can insert a bolt on the drum to push the drum off by screw it in, you don't need to use a hammer or a ply bar. Using an impact driver will take those countersunk bolt off(again, not screw) without much issue, if you manage to stripe those out, you'll end up drilling them out. first thing to do once the drum is off is spray down the darn thing with a brake cleaner, all the brake dust will get everywhere if you don't.
Great video - thank you ! The one thing I would add is to be very sure to buy/install the new springs kit when you do the brake shoe replacement. I initially thought I would get by with the existing springs but that resulted in the self-adjustment mechanism being completely screwed up and the car undrivable. I went back and redid the job with new springs and the rear brakes/E brake all worked like a champ !
The adjustment that you describe is for when there is too much space between the shoe and the drum - the adjuster will push the shoe tight against the drum. When reinstalling, the drum should slide in with no problem - no tapping is required. I wouldn't worry about it though, if there is some rubbing then driving around will wear away a little brake material and it should stop.
Good walk-through. A couple of minor nit-picks...I was always taught never hammer on the outer part of a drum. If you spray penetrant at the lug studs and the center hub, then wait a minute, usually light tapping on the hat (the area between the studs) is all it takes to remove it. Sounds weird, but you can tap around there while pulling outward, and the drum will walk off. No violence needed. Some import drums have a hole with threads you can run a bolt into, and it will push the drum off the hub as you crank it down. Also, this type of shoe hold-down spring, the sheet metal strip kind? All you gotta do is press in on it with your thumb and turn the pin from the backside and unlock/lock it. Yes, using a pliers works. But it also can bugger up the tabs on the pin, and cause the spring to pop off in service. You don't want that. In fact, I've found that on these import drum brakes, most of the springs I can remove/install by hand. But I got hands that have been doing this stuff for decades. I wouldn't expect the DIY'er to be able to. But those strip springs? Yeah, no prob.
Thanks for this, after reassembling the shoes and all the left shoe seemed to be loose and the wheel made a bad scraping noise when it drove. We pulled it apart and put it together again and now it's okay. Still not sure what the problem was but it's okay now. Still going to take it to a mechanic for the other side coz that wouldn't come apart at all so I'll get them to have a look.
To remove the drum. 1. Remove the two screws 2. The drum comes with an extra hole ( in front of drum) 3. Place one of the screws in the extra hole and tight it up until the drum pops right out. One of the two screws fit perfectly.
good tutorial man i have to service a bad job by some nut-head so i needed to double check the placement of the springs. ignore the critics they prob don't know what they are doing
Hello friend, great video, I have a 1999 mazda allegro with the brake system described in your video, I have the following problem, the car did not work the emergency well, it was reviewed and the guayas were bad, the guayas were changed and it still continues Without working properly the emergency, the brake shoes are at half life, the only thing I noticed is that when the emergency brake is activated only one of the shoes moves, could you give me an idea of what would be the probable cause for which The emergency brake is not working well, thanks for your help
@madmax2069 I did them yesterday on a 94', and they didn't have the c-clip. The spring for the emergency lever was not like in this video. The adjuster clip has a different shape in one end too.
Hey man, great video - It really helped me! I stuffed up when it came to putting the drum back on though. I literally spent a couple of hours trying to get it back on. I didn't even get around to doing the other side. I tried to move to adjuster back, like you did, but in the end, I really forced the drum back on....I think I was very frustrated at that point and now regret doing so. I doubt the wheel would even spin the way it is now. Any ideas on where I went wrong?
This might be a stupid question but is there a chance that you have the parking brake set? You should not have to force the drum and it should spin freely when installed. So something is not right. In a case like this, go back and double check that the shoes are installed correctly. Look at the adjuster again. Being frustrated is normal. Its how you learn from your mistakes. Happens to me all the time. Good luck.
I had same issues as others and could not get drum on right side.Ended up adjusting parking lever in car at lever assy.But after getting the right side on went and put left together thinking that was my issue, but could not get drum on that side.Everything looked right.Ended up after checking everyting putting old brakes back on and returning new ones.Old ones were still well above limit on thicknes.Was just trying to be pro-active and doing it one last time.Not sure what the issue was.Old brakes went back on no problem along with drums?Not rocket science on this job.And did it once before with no problem.
I did this job, and would like to add a word of warning, and also maybe get some advice. On test drive heard bad scraping so returned to home, started to back down steep driveway to my work area, pushed the brake, it went to the floor, narrowly missed rolling 100 yards more down a steeper field with several trees in it. on inspection BOTH cylinders blew out a piston. I guess I did not have the shoes properly engaged to the pistons. Or is there some critical pre- adjustment of the adjuster required. No video I have watched has made any need to pre- adjust. ??
Thanks for reply. I believe I did not have the bottom of the shoes correctly positioned. That of course mis-aligned the top ( piston) ends. I did have pedal and forwarded and reversed braking several several times and foolishly thought the grinding might go away.
I did mine but the passenger side is kind like overheated so what could be ? I adjusted the lever and still overheating . And if u spin the tire with the hand it only goes like half turn even with the lever loose so what could be any advice .. the driver side is ok that sping great and not overheating
Can someone please help me i have a 2003 mazda protege same exact brake set up as this, i cant get the new drum over the new shoes!! Ive tried everything, my ebrake cable isnt frozen the wheel cylinder is good and the adjuster is all the way in and it still wont fit!
Compare the size of the new brake shoes to the old brake shoes by holding the old shoes up to the new shoes. Make sure the backing plates match up perfectly. The only difference, of course, would be the thickness of the new brake shoe material. If the new shoe's backing plates are larger then you will have a problem getting the drums on.
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing. But just to be sure I would take off the brake drum and make sure none of the brake components are broken. Could even be the tire itself.
no big hammer. there are two threaded holes on the face of the drum. insert and tighten slowly while lightly tapping face of drum with small hammer. the drum comes off easily.
THIS DIDN'T WORK AT ALL.. IT IS SO VAGUE BECAUSE IT'S ALL IN THE FRONT.. THE VIEW TO THE SPRINGS IN THE BACK ARE LIMITED.. ALL I GOT FROM THIS VIDEO WAS A BENT EMERGENCY BRAKE SPRING AND A SPRING THAT I MESSED UP TRYING TO PUT IN THE HOLE.. THANKS
Absolute God send. I know I'm over a decade late to this but, I'm reviving my old 94' Mazda Protege for my younger brother's first car. Wanted to make sure it would be all set for him. Thank you so much for the detailed explanation as well as cutting right to the chase instead of 5 minutes of talking.
Thank you so much for this! I looked everywhere and could not find a decent tutorial. No way I am paying a shop $300 for doing my brakes when I can do it myself only spending about $60 in parts. You are my hero!
EXCEPTIONAL VIDEO!!!!! other people, not just mechanics should watch your video to know how to do one (especially because you used a tripod... thank you!!!) It was well organized, to the point (not too much talking) great use of time! Thanks again
Yes it was VERY well done. No ambiguity. Every point was very clear.
my wife says thank you for this video..i did her brakes all by myself..and with your video...your the man.
I wish @7:45 you would have shown "move that adjuster back". I did not see what the adjuster looks like or which direction you move it. Also @0:25 there is a THIRD screw hole in the drum. It is there for inserting a correct bolt into & as it's turned in it helps push the drum off (so us 60 year olds don't have to "beat the crap outta it" lol). Overall, helpful vid.
Thanks so much for putting this video up.changed my daughters 1999 protege brakes this morning and it was a great help.
Great Video indeed!
I watched it 2 times to make sure I knew what I was doing before I did it..
One trick that I used was to make a map of where the parts go as I removed them off the car, this way I could put the new parts back on in the right place.
Also, the drum was really tight in the rear right. I drove it like that for a day then went back to adjust the brake. I assume it was rubbing on the back plate. everything working like a charm now.. thanks again!
@crj19851985 are you kidding? what more do u want from the guy, u want him to come change ur brakes for u? This is the most detailed tutorial you'll find, if u have anything better i'd love to see it. Thanx for the amazing tutorial happywrenching.
thank you so much for this vdieo...my bro needed help on this exact car and we got it done.. it seemed that drums are the worst to handle but when its explained the right way like you did its all the difference. again thanks for the help. nothing like doing it urself these days
@duckmage2140
you can insert a bolt on the drum to push the drum off by screw it in, you don't need to use a hammer or a ply bar.
Using an impact driver will take those countersunk bolt off(again, not screw) without much issue, if you manage to stripe those out, you'll end up drilling them out.
first thing to do once the drum is off is spray down the darn thing with a brake cleaner, all the brake dust will get everywhere if you don't.
@ivanmacri74 The Protege in the video has the 1.8 but the rear drum brakes are the same 99 - 2003, regardless of the engine size.
Great video - thank you ! The one thing I would add is to be very sure to buy/install the new springs kit when you do the brake shoe replacement. I initially thought I would get by with the existing springs but that resulted in the self-adjustment mechanism being completely screwed up and the car undrivable. I went back and redid the job with new springs and the rear brakes/E brake all worked like a champ !
Great job. Every detail needed to complete this. Been a long time since and needed this refresher.
The adjustment that you describe is for when there is too much space between the shoe and the drum - the adjuster will push the shoe tight against the drum. When reinstalling, the drum should slide in with no problem - no tapping is required. I wouldn't worry about it though, if there is some rubbing then driving around will wear away a little brake material and it should stop.
Good walk-through. A couple of minor nit-picks...I was always taught never hammer on the outer part of a drum. If you spray penetrant at the lug studs and the center hub, then wait a minute, usually light tapping on the hat (the area between the studs) is all it takes to remove it. Sounds weird, but you can tap around there while pulling outward, and the drum will walk off. No violence needed. Some import drums have a hole with threads you can run a bolt into, and it will push the drum off the hub as you crank it down. Also, this type of shoe hold-down spring, the sheet metal strip kind? All you gotta do is press in on it with your thumb and turn the pin from the backside and unlock/lock it. Yes, using a pliers works. But it also can bugger up the tabs on the pin, and cause the spring to pop off in service. You don't want that. In fact, I've found that on these import drum brakes, most of the springs I can remove/install by hand. But I got hands that have been doing this stuff for decades. I wouldn't expect the DIY'er to be able to. But those strip springs? Yeah, no prob.
Use one of the screws in the one smaller hole and tighten screw to remove drum. The screw pushes the drum off.
Glad to hear that you found this video helpful!
I am teying to take it it, but this hub will not budge!
Great video. I did need an impact wrench to loosen those drum screws. Just took a couple whacks.
Thanks for this, after reassembling the shoes and all the left shoe seemed to be loose and the wheel made a bad scraping noise when it drove. We pulled it apart and put it together again and now it's okay. Still not sure what the problem was but it's okay now. Still going to take it to a mechanic for the other side coz that wouldn't come apart at all so I'll get them to have a look.
To remove the drum. 1. Remove the two screws 2. The drum comes with an extra hole ( in front of drum) 3. Place one of the screws in the extra hole and tight it up until the drum pops right out. One of the two screws fit perfectly.
good tutorial man i have to service a bad job by some nut-head so i needed to double check the placement of the springs. ignore the critics they prob don't know what they are doing
Thanks a MILLION for your video!!! Why the leading shoe is more worn than the trailing shoe?
Hello friend, great video, I have a 1999 mazda allegro with the brake system described in your video, I have the following problem, the car did not work the emergency well, it was reviewed and the guayas were bad, the guayas were changed and it still continues Without working properly the emergency, the brake shoes are at half life, the only thing I noticed is that when the emergency brake is activated only one of the shoes moves, could you give me an idea of what would be the probable cause for which The emergency brake is not working well, thanks for your help
Thank you very much for the video. Can this apply to the Mazda 323 1998-2000?
great video! can you make more for the 99 protege
@madmax2069 I did them yesterday on a 94', and they didn't have the c-clip. The spring for the emergency lever was not like in this video. The adjuster clip has a different shape in one end too.
@69MrMuddinmatt Glad the video helped. It's a great feeling doing the repairs yourself :)
Hey man, great video - It really helped me!
I stuffed up when it came to putting the drum back on though. I literally spent a couple of hours trying to get it back on. I didn't even get around to doing the other side. I tried to move to adjuster back, like you did, but in the end, I really forced the drum back on....I think I was very frustrated at that point and now regret doing so. I doubt the wheel would even spin the way it is now. Any ideas on where I went wrong?
This might be a stupid question but is there a chance that you have the parking brake set? You should not have to force the drum and it should spin freely when installed. So something is not right. In a case like this, go back and double check that the shoes are installed correctly. Look at the adjuster again.
Being frustrated is normal. Its how you learn from your mistakes. Happens to me all the time. Good luck.
Thanks!
I'm ashamed to saying that yes, I did have the handbrake on.
I realised it that night while I was trying to sleep, haha.
I had same issues as others and could not get drum on right side.Ended up adjusting parking lever in car at lever assy.But after getting the right side on went and put left together thinking that was my issue, but could not get drum on that side.Everything looked right.Ended up after checking everyting putting old brakes back on and returning new ones.Old ones were still well above limit on thicknes.Was just trying to be pro-active and doing it one last time.Not sure what the issue was.Old brakes went back on no problem along with drums?Not rocket science on this job.And did it once before with no problem.
Excellent. Just what I wanted. Thanks for posting.
I did this job, and would like to add a word of warning, and also maybe get some advice. On test drive heard bad scraping so returned to home, started to back down steep driveway to my work area, pushed the brake, it went to the floor, narrowly missed rolling 100 yards more down a steeper field with several trees in it. on inspection BOTH cylinders blew out a piston. I guess I did not have the shoes properly engaged to the pistons. Or is there some critical pre- adjustment of the adjuster required. No video I have watched has made any need to pre- adjust. ??
Thanks for reply. I believe I did not have the bottom of the shoes correctly positioned. That of course mis-aligned the top ( piston) ends. I did have pedal and forwarded and reversed braking several several times and foolishly thought the grinding might go away.
Best drum video ever!!!!
thanks for doing this video... could you do one for a Mazda 2? can't find one as good as your video
this set up is the solution for kia rio and sepha rear shoe problems use this sping set and return sping 1999 /2004
Thanks for the video. Worked out great.
old video, but with a very detailed how-to :-) i wonder where the abs sensor is though
99 proteges dont have ABS
what brand of brake shoes and drums did you use?
I did mine but the passenger side is kind like overheated so what could be ? I adjusted the lever and still overheating . And if u spin the tire with the hand it only goes like half turn even with the lever loose so what could be any advice .. the driver side is ok that sping great and not overheating
I would double check the adjust and make sure that the brake shoes are properly seated. Other than that, you may have got the wrong parts.
im trying to figure out when buying parts if shoes usually come in four and if the hardware kits are for both rear brakes or just one?
Shoes come in four so that you can do both left and right side of the car. Hardware kit is for both sides as well.
happywrenching perfect! thanks so much. great video, looking forward to knocking this out myself
Can someone please help me i have a 2003 mazda protege same exact brake set up as this, i cant get the new drum over the new shoes!! Ive tried everything, my ebrake cable isnt frozen the wheel cylinder is good and the adjuster is all the way in and it still wont fit!
Craig Blair i have the same problem, cant figure it out
Compare the size of the new brake shoes to the old brake shoes by holding the old shoes up to the new shoes. Make sure the backing plates match up perfectly. The only difference, of course, would be the thickness of the new brake shoe material. If the new shoe's backing plates are larger then you will have a problem getting the drums on.
I cant get the DRum OFF
thansk you, very good and clear tutorial
awesome vid man, make some more!
where did you got the brake kit from and name of the kit
+Kimon Harris All the parts used in this video are made by CENTRIC and for this job I bought everything from rockauto.com
ok i hear a sound coming from my rear tire sounds like a soda can when you stick it to the rear tire on a bike what can this sound mean?
Sounds like a bad wheel bearing. But just to be sure I would take off the brake drum and make sure none of the brake components are broken. Could even be the tire itself.
@crj19851985 - Vague??? Are you watching the same video as I am? This video shows everything step by step - it doesn't get any clearer than that.
no big hammer. there are two threaded holes on the face of the drum. insert and tighten slowly while lightly tapping face of drum with small hammer. the drum comes off easily.
Thank you very much for this video.
I replaced my rear drums and shoes but they still squeal. Is this normal?
great video man
Very helpful vid
i will try doing this soon on my car , and i might need some more assistance ...
Esta bien la descripción pero me podrían apoyar el ajuste de las balatas
Great Vid....cheers.
just did my 03'-just like this.easy job. Do not see how that guy screwed it up
Good video, you just forgot to show how to adjust the brake pads.
1999 Mazda , 2.0 , 1.6 ,1.8 ????
these look almost identical to the 90-94 protege rear drums.
Thank you
CENTRIC drums and shoes from rockauto
thanks man
Can’t remember the last time I worked on a drum brake system. Glad the video is still being watched
THIS DIDN'T WORK AT ALL.. IT IS SO VAGUE BECAUSE IT'S ALL IN THE FRONT.. THE VIEW TO THE SPRINGS IN THE BACK ARE LIMITED.. ALL I GOT FROM THIS VIDEO WAS A BENT EMERGENCY BRAKE SPRING AND A SPRING THAT I MESSED UP TRYING TO PUT IN THE HOLE.. THANKS
Grrat video , thank you for the tips , brother❤