Eric you are a pro. Your videos are precise and up to the point. Great job that you are doing, educating the masses so that they don't get ripped off by the mechanics
Thanks, I see that this video is 5 years old, but it still keeps saving guys a lot of hassle. I just did the yearly clean and inspection of my drum brakes and found one cylinder that had a leak. I was dreading disassembly of the shoes and springs but I happened upon your video which saved me a lot of time and effort. Thanks again!
1. You don’t need to bleed the brakes before you remove the wheel cylinder. 2. It’s a good practice to bleed all 4 wheel cylinders after opening a line (especially after a couple of years-to keep corrosion out of the lines and cylinder; brake fluid absorbs moisture)
I have tried both ways and this way is much cleaner Before removing shoes had my socks soaking up the oil on the garage floor So no more shoe removal for me cheers Eric
This is great. I just put new brakes on my car a couple of weeks ago and yesterday noticed I had a RR wheel cylinder leaking and was dreading having to take it all off. This is going to save me a ton of time. Thanks for this video !!!!
Me too......was not looking forward to taking all this apart for just a cylinder change-out, as its a bear to deal with , if more pieces need to be touched. Great tip here......
Every video I saw took off both shoes to take off the wheel cylinder. I just needed to replace the cylinder. You saved me so much time and effort! Thanks!
Great tip! Thanks! And here's one from me: by far the best penetrating fluid I've ever used is Kano Kroil penetrating oil. Not sold in parts stores, you have to buy it online. Yes it's fairly expensive. I buy the squeeze can and use it to fill small eye dropper bottles I get at Hobby Lobby-- much less wastage than with a spray bottle. It's truly the best, as consumer testing organizations have found.
Eric, Nice job on the video. It is like a blast from the past and this format highlights what I believe to be your strongest qualities. They are the same qualities that I came to enjoy, revisit, and depend upon in your early days. Again, great job!
Thanks for the tip. I was dredding doing the rear drums on my ‘64 Chevy II. The wheel cylinder on the passenger is a gonner. This just saved me a ton of time and headache. And space on my phone because I don’t have to take a picture of how the springs lay. I will be converting to disc brakes in the rear as soon as I can afford it.
Might be an older video but thanks for the tight, concise demonstration! I need to replace the cylinders on my 06 Chevy Silverado rear brakes and wondered if it could be done without completely disassembling the shoes.
Had been looking for a way to remove the cylinder without removing the shoes as I did not have the correct tools to remove the springs. This method worked like a charm. Thanks for the video.
Damn it Eric the car guy ....there goes plausible deniability. I used to say I had to tear down the whole assembly to replace the cylinder. Its a great tip man thank you. Now to wrestle with the moral quandary. I gave you a thumbs up case you were wondering.
Great video! Be super careful when you push those rubber boots! Always squeeze them from BOTH SIDES SLOWLY. Otherwise the springs and pistons may pop out and shoot out brake fluids into your face! Definitely wear safety glass for this job! (Don't ask me how I know that)
Thank you for leading me through a rear end wheel cylinder replacement on my 2001 Odyssey. I never heard of gravity bleeding of the break lines before but it seems to have worked. The less responsive braking usually comes from the new brake shoes re-seating in the newly machined drums and not from a need to do a very thorough brake bleeding. Time will tell if I still need to do a more thorough brake bleeding. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video, this will help me at work cuz... Oh forgot to let you know I started at Pep Boys a month ago, now they are letting me change rotor, pads, drums and shoes but not the brakelines yet...Having fun and staying dirty 👍😃👌🔧🔩
Just one thing I have a problem with is that when a wheel cylinder has failed and leaked break fluid all over the shoes them must be replaced as no matter how much you clean them they will never work 100% again so I always replace shoes if fluid has leaked safer for all road users
EricTheCarGuy people in general who just get in and drive the car don’t have a clue about regular adjustments most of them don’t even know how to top off the oil let alone check breaks
Was anyone paying attention when Eric said that with this cylinder you couldn’t tell it was leaking until you pulled back the boot that was containing the leaked fluid. That’s why the shoes would be ok. What he forgot to say that when all was done including adjustment, then you need to clean everything with brake cleaner before putting it all back together.
Joe Carr I do see what you are saying in this case I would just replace the cylinder if the shoes where fine as no fluid had leaked on the shoes but he does say in the video the do fail completely and get fluid all over the shoes
Just wondering, what happen to the camera men you had help you? All the most recent vids are old school (which l like). Thanks! Nice vid, l have done this, it works, and helps!
Wow just watched your video on replacing the drum brakes and was thinking I'd have to do that, JUST TO remove and replace the blown out wheel cylinder. Hope this trick works on a 1985 G30 Chevy rear drum because I will save money and not screw up that complicated drum brake shoe setup. It'll be my first time attempting rear brakes but you explained it so well.
Realize this is an old video; those adjusters usually have an access on the back side that’s covered with a rectangular rubber grommet, makes turning them easier from there.
Where was this video 5 days ago. :) I spent way too much time trying replace the wheel cylinder on my wifes car last weekend lol...well now I know if I ever have to do it again. Thanks for the video.
I've never had any trouble removing wheel cylinders from a car, and I've especially never had to adjust the shoes like that, let alone completely remove them. Good video though for if some DO struggle with them. :)
Great video! Looking forward to the video about how to deal with lines that are turning with the nut as well. I've dealt with that many many times, but always good to see how someone else goes about it!
The only thing I have had any real success with is wire brushing the line clean right up to the fitting, heating the crap out of it, and spraying it down with non flammable liquid wrench. You do need to make sure you open the hydraulic system somewhere for the pressure you are creating to escape, so either cut an adjacent rubber hose, or pull the pistons out of the wheel cylinder so the fluid can escape as it heats and expands. If you don't do that, ugly things will happen. If the fitting you are working on goes into a rubber hose, just cut the hose, as you will need to replace it after you heat it up anyway. This usually works for me. When it doesn't, I just accept that I am going to be replacing that line.@@TheHamouda
All the videos I’ve watched on this for my 04 Ford Ranger, no one’s ever done it this way. That’s pretty badass. You think it’ll be this easy on my truck? Everyone else is showing taking off the springs etc.
Thank you Eric! I wish I could give this tip a "two" thumbs up - priceless, this trick saved me a huge amount of time and frustration with my farm truck. :)
JUST WATCH THE VIDEO AND THATS THE JOB I HAVE AHEAD OF ME DIDNT KNOW U COULD REMOVE THEM THAT WAY BUT THANK U I SAVE THIS STEPS YOU WERE A SUPER BIG BIG HELP NOW I KNOW WHAT TO DO.
That’s totally awesome. I had it in my head somehow maybe this could be done I’ve done them twice now in my mud truck and I know the pads are fine. I just keep blowing out these cheap ass wheel cylinders. I’m going to buy a better quality wheel cylinder this time and use your method. Thank you so much!
Big question.....how do you know which one's are quality? In my experience price is no indicator and often when you look closely at alternate brands....you find out it's the same junk you bought before.
I have a tool to spread the shoes, something that can easily be made with a piece of threaded rod and a couple plates, it grabs the top of the shoes and pulls them apart.
Hi Eric! My name is Theo! Im 23 years old and the last year i got in to auto repair! Im still trying to learn things and your videos help me alot! You, chris, the car doctor and rnw has pretty much taught me everything i know (so far). I hope you keep doing these videos for many years to come. You mentioned in the video that you push in the Pistons in the cylinder to make sure they can move easily, but what if they have a bit of resistance/barely moving? What would you do (if you cant get new one’s at the moment) ? Any kind of lube you could use? I understand that a brand new cylinder wouldnt usually have that problem, but, ”what if”? Maybe you could make a video about brake cylinders? Cutting one open and show us how they work?
Thanks for the comment. I strongly recommend an automotive education if you're looking to get into auto repair. Usually the pistons move easily for me. It's just the initial movement that's difficult. Too bad I threw away the old wheel cylinder. That might have made a good video as you pointed out. Good luck in your career.
That works great on the type of adjuster shown. If you have the type with the adjuster on the bottom like on an old chevy you want to run it all the way in and then take off the 2 return springs. Also if you use clamp off pliers on the nearest rubber line before you disconnect the brake lines then it won't drain the whole system and will bleed that much faster when you put everything back together.
Nice shortcut ya posted here. Looking forward to the upcoming video about how to deal with a brake line that's stuck on, and turning with the nut. I had a near identical problem with my first car many moons ago, difference being it was the fuel line stuck to it's nut & twisting with it when I was trying to replace the fuel filter. ('83 Mustang GL w/ a 3.8L V6... filter was mounted to the carburetor) The line kinked & broke, I ended up patching it with a length of fuel-safe hose & some tiny hose clamps after using a hacksaw to cut off the damaged ends.
great video; so glad I no longer have to regularly deal with drum brakes anymore... damn springs; granted my subaru uses a drum brake within the disc setup for the handbrake, but I just replaced everything in there at 120k miles, so I don't have to touch it for another 13 years/120k miles.
Wait, What? WHAT? WTF!!!! I love this as I'm about do all the brakes on my car but just the cylinders in the rear. I also love this trick cause it's so simple and easy. Ok I subscribed, keep up the good work.
Excellent......drum brakes are the Devil's invention......too many small parts and springs that want to come apart when you do work in this area... if you don't have 3 or 4 hands. This tip is well-received and EXCELLENT. One question.....do you "clamp" the soft part of the brake line while doing this work to avoid excess brake fluid leakage while it's all apart? Lastly...YES....the "gravity" method for brake bleeding/filling is the absolute BEST way to bleed brakes even if it's not the fastest way. No way for air-bubbles and air traps.....good point !!!! Oh...one more thing....a lot of cars have a removable rubber plug so you can use your screwdriver from BEHIND the wheel hub ......often gives you more room and access to move the adjustment wheel. Super !!!......
I use a pry br and a couple quick clamps to replace wheel cylinders without disturbing the shoe adjuster. Pry each shoe till it is just free from adjuster and clamp it to the backing plate. Replace cylinder and remove clamps and you're done.
Good information. At one time Cal-Van made a tool to speed up the process "27100 Brake Shoe Spreader". Unfortunately it's no longer available. I contacted Cal Van but needless to say, I don't have much pull with Cal Van. But now Eric, if you were to contact them...
Maybe I'm wrong, but it doesn't seem that this procedure will work if the adjuster is a the bottom, like in my '68 Ford Galaxie... It's got factory front-disc/rear-drum brakes, but the adjuster for the back brakes is at the bottom -- it pushes the bottom of the shoes in or out. The wheel cylinder is at the top, like in this example, of course. Seems that in my case, making the adjuster expand the shoes would tighten their grip on the wheel cylinder at the top? Maybe I'm wrong... I'll have to take a look next time I'm in my brakes on that car...
EricTheCarGuy I think loosening the bottom adjuster helps the top stay out of the way of the piston pieces. I just remove the whole adjuster on me old Chevy's.
neat trick on old bendix brakes. Remove the line and bolts holding the wheel cylinder on the backing plate,then just reach in with a screwdriver and push the E-brake lever which attaches to the rear (secondary) shoe toward the front of the car to activate the same way the e-brake cable does and the brake shoes seperate from the wheel cylinder enough for you to pull the cylinder out with your other hand.You can also just put the E-brake on gently once your ready to pull the cylinder out and it will hold the shoes out while you change the cylinder. This doesn't work on front drum brakes but just remove the top return springs and they are easy to do as well.
Eric you are a pro. Your videos are precise and up to the point. Great job that you are doing, educating the masses so that they don't get ripped off by the mechanics
Thanks, I see that this video is 5 years old, but it still keeps saving guys a lot of hassle. I just did the yearly clean and inspection of my drum brakes and found one cylinder that had a leak. I was dreading disassembly of the shoes and springs but I happened upon your video which saved me a lot of time and effort. Thanks again!
Do you bleed them after wheel cylinder replacement?
Do I need to drain the breaks before removing the break line?
1. You don’t need to bleed the brakes before you remove the wheel cylinder. 2. It’s a good practice to bleed all 4 wheel cylinders after opening a line (especially after a couple of years-to keep corrosion out of the lines and cylinder; brake fluid absorbs moisture)
I have tried both ways and this way is much cleaner
Before removing shoes had my socks soaking up the oil on the garage floor
So no more shoe removal for me cheers Eric
Pro tip be extremely careful removing the bleeder valve from a new cylinder they are extremely cheap and will break inside the cylinder.
Would performing those step work with replacing front cylinders?
Exactly why I'm here lol
I love this method. my Shop teacher showed this to me back in school. One of the best tips he ever provided to the class.
This is great. I just put new brakes on my car a couple of weeks ago and yesterday noticed I had a RR wheel cylinder leaking and was dreading having to take it all off. This is going to save me a ton of time. Thanks for this video !!!!
Me too......was not looking forward to taking all this apart for just a cylinder change-out, as its a bear to deal with , if more pieces need to be touched. Great tip here......
Every video I saw took off both shoes to take off the wheel cylinder. I just needed to replace the cylinder. You saved me so much time and effort! Thanks!
Great tip! Thanks!
And here's one from me: by far the best penetrating fluid I've ever used is Kano Kroil penetrating oil. Not sold in parts stores, you have to buy it online. Yes it's fairly expensive. I buy the squeeze can and use it to fill small eye dropper bottles I get at Hobby Lobby-- much less wastage than with a spray bottle. It's truly the best, as consumer testing organizations have found.
Project Farm did a review and Kroil came out looking good but the best....it seemed...was a surprise....Liquid Wrench.
Eric, Nice job on the video. It is like a blast from the past and this format highlights what I believe to be your strongest qualities. They are the same qualities that I came to enjoy, revisit, and depend upon in your early days. Again, great job!
Thanks for the tip. I was dredding doing the rear drums on my ‘64 Chevy II. The wheel cylinder on the passenger is a gonner. This just saved me a ton of time and headache. And space on my phone because I don’t have to take a picture of how the springs lay. I will be converting to disc brakes in the rear as soon as I can afford it.
did this trick without loosening the adjuster, hardest part was lining the darn cylinder up, felt like an eternity. lesson learned!
I'm an automotive technology student and these videos have been great supplements. Thanks!
Glad you find them helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Might be an older video but thanks for the tight, concise demonstration! I need to replace the cylinders on my 06 Chevy Silverado rear brakes and wondered if it could be done without completely disassembling the shoes.
Had been looking for a way to remove the cylinder without removing the shoes as I did not have the correct tools to remove the springs. This method worked like a charm. Thanks for the video.
Your way of removing the wheel cylinder is easy and functional.
Thanks very much.
God bless you and your job.
Good video! That trick only works when the adjuster is up by the cylinder. Usually they are opposite the wheel cylinder.
I see most on top near the cylinder....Toyotas and this Ford ( Taurus ?), he's working on.
Thanks for the tip Eric! For some reason I have always found repairing drum brakes to be oddly satisfying.
What! I hate them.
I love it when Eric shows us how to avoid Pain & Misery. It makes me wish ETCG1 was around in the 90's.
I was around, TH-cam wasn't. 😉 th-cam.com/video/ss-7lHGwwz0/w-d-xo.html
Very good advice Sir. I was told shoes had to come off. Cylinders froze on front of my 1970 f 100.
You are a neat mechanic. Thanks
Clean, simple, no non-sense, to-the-point vid!! LOVE IT!! I'M STARTNG ON MY REAR WHEEL CYLINDER TOMORROW. THANK Y0U.
Was it hard ?
Thanks, you make my life easier and give me confidence that I can do it. Can't handle the springs. Two thumbs up!
Thanks Eric. This vid has helped me save some money. you rock Bro. from New Zealand..Simple and easy to follow. Cheers.
Back to your best Eric. Just like old times 👍
You always have helpful tips that save both time and money , What a great guy! Thanks Eric.
Damn it Eric the car guy ....there goes plausible deniability. I used to say I had to tear down the whole assembly to replace the cylinder. Its a great tip man thank you. Now to wrestle with the moral quandary. I gave you a thumbs up case you were wondering.
Pretty cool shortcut. My cylinders are the same for both sides.
Happy Motoring.
You should add how to adjust brake shoes.
Thanks Eric. I'm working my way up to doing my own drum brake job. Very helpful, thank you.
Free tip Friday on a Wednesday :)
Great video! Be super careful when you push those rubber boots! Always squeeze them from BOTH SIDES SLOWLY. Otherwise the springs and pistons may pop out and shoot out brake fluids into your face! Definitely wear safety glass for this job! (Don't ask me how I know that)
Thank you for leading me through a rear end wheel cylinder replacement on my 2001 Odyssey. I never heard of gravity bleeding of the break lines before but it seems to have worked. The less responsive braking usually comes from the new brake shoes re-seating in the newly machined drums and not from a need to do a very thorough brake bleeding. Time will tell if I still need to do a more thorough brake bleeding. Thanks again.
Thanks man. The last set of drum I worked on as in 94. Guess who got a 95 GMC with the same problem? Good stuff.
I am going to use this info on my 77 GMC. It has been many years sense I have done any brake work. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, this will help me at work cuz...
Oh forgot to let you know I started at Pep Boys a month ago, now they are letting me change rotor, pads, drums and shoes but not the brakelines yet...Having fun and staying dirty 👍😃👌🔧🔩
Just one thing I have a problem with is that when a wheel cylinder has failed and leaked break fluid all over the shoes them must be replaced as no matter how much you clean them they will never work 100% again so I always replace shoes if fluid has leaked safer for all road users
If you clean and adjust your rear brakes annually, you can usually inspect the wheel cylinders and take care of it before it gets to that point.
EricTheCarGuy That never happens, customers will drive it until fluid is all gone
EricTheCarGuy people in general who just get in and drive the car don’t have a clue about regular adjustments most of them don’t even know how to top off the oil let alone check breaks
Was anyone paying attention when Eric said that with this cylinder you couldn’t tell it was leaking until you pulled back the boot that was containing the leaked fluid. That’s why the shoes would be ok. What he forgot to say that when all was done including adjustment, then you need to clean everything with brake cleaner before putting it all back together.
Joe Carr I do see what you are saying in this case I would just replace the cylinder if the shoes where fine as no fluid had leaked on the shoes but he does say in the video the do fail completely and get fluid all over the shoes
Thank you, bringing a 89 GMC back to life, needing this done!
Eric, this video saved me easily an hour! Brilliant!!!
Getting ready to do this very thing on my Dad's 65 Chevy C10. Thanks for the video. Saving it for reference.
Might be a stupid question. I've got a seized rear cylinder you made it look simple do u get loads of fluid come out when undo the pipe at back thanks
Just wondering, what happen to the camera men you had help you? All the most recent vids are old school (which l like). Thanks! Nice vid, l have done this, it works, and helps!
Wow just watched your video on replacing the drum brakes and was thinking I'd have to do that, JUST TO remove and replace the blown out wheel cylinder. Hope this trick works on a 1985 G30 Chevy rear drum because I will save money and not screw up that complicated drum brake shoe setup. It'll be my first time attempting rear brakes but you explained it so well.
Realize this is an old video; those adjusters usually have an access on the back side that’s covered with a rectangular rubber grommet, makes turning them easier from there.
Thank you Eric, you saved me. Love watching your videos, this one saved me from a lot of stress.
Thanks Eric. I was getting low on beer just trying to get the drum off let alone wanting to play with springs etc.
Where was this video 5 days ago. :) I spent way too much time trying replace the wheel cylinder on my wifes car last weekend lol...well now I know if I ever have to do it again. Thanks for the video.
If it makes you feel better I shot the video 5 days ago. ;)
EricTheCarGuy It does thanks :) !!!
I've never had any trouble removing wheel cylinders from a car, and I've especially never had to adjust the shoes like that, let alone completely remove them. Good video though for if some DO struggle with them. :)
Great video! Looking forward to the video about how to deal with lines that are turning with the nut as well. I've dealt with that many many times, but always good to see how someone else goes about it!
I can't unscrew that nut .turning with line any idea thank you
The only thing I have had any real success with is wire brushing the line clean right up to the fitting, heating the crap out of it, and spraying it down with non flammable liquid wrench. You do need to make sure you open the hydraulic system somewhere for the pressure you are creating to escape, so either cut an adjacent rubber hose, or pull the pistons out of the wheel cylinder so the fluid can escape as it heats and expands. If you don't do that, ugly things will happen. If the fitting you are working on goes into a rubber hose, just cut the hose, as you will need to replace it after you heat it up anyway. This usually works for me. When it doesn't, I just accept that I am going to be replacing that line.@@TheHamouda
Thank you so much for quick reply .and taking tome to answer .my question .have a good day
i end up with unscrewing the wheel cylinder. and put new one had to screw the wheel cylider . that way work s well
Old school ETCG video!! Thumbs up!
Been watching you since high school Eric the car guy. You have saved my ass so many times it's not even funny. You are the shit
Back to your best Eric. Just like old times
I have to do this tomorrow , my cylinder started pouring fluid out today , I hope it goes this well for me 😊👍🏼🙏🏼
All the videos I’ve watched on this for my 04 Ford Ranger, no one’s ever done it this way. That’s pretty badass. You think it’ll be this easy on my truck? Everyone else is showing taking off the springs etc.
Thank you Eric! I wish I could give this tip a "two" thumbs up - priceless, this trick saved me a huge amount of time and frustration with my farm truck. :)
Ericthecarguy thanks 🙏 your the best over a decade of straight to the point quality automotive videos thanks a lot E and keepem coming
JUST WATCH THE VIDEO AND THATS THE JOB I HAVE AHEAD OF ME DIDNT KNOW U COULD REMOVE THEM THAT WAY BUT THANK U I SAVE THIS STEPS YOU WERE A SUPER BIG BIG HELP NOW I KNOW WHAT TO DO.
Eric! My man, coming through once again. Thanks so much for saving me time and stress buddy
Ingenious time saving tip, it's all about working smarter.
That’s totally awesome. I had it in my head somehow maybe this could be done I’ve done them twice now in my mud truck and I know the pads are fine. I just keep blowing out these cheap ass wheel cylinders. I’m going to buy a better quality wheel cylinder this time and use your method. Thank you so much!
Big question.....how do you know which one's are quality? In my experience price is no indicator and often when you look closely at alternate brands....you find out it's the same junk you bought before.
That's sweet, easy. No springs removed great video thanks. Hit it on my 67 firebird
One of the best channels on the Web !!
Thanks Eric u made my day.
I am proud of u.
Thanks for the tip, Eric! I have one that's just barely seeping on my Falcon and have not been looking forward to dealing with it.
Bloody good video Eric those drum brakes are a pain in the backside awkward messy and sometimes the springs do not want to go back on
I have a tool to spread the shoes, something that can easily be made with a piece of threaded rod and a couple plates, it grabs the top of the shoes and pulls them apart.
Done this a bunch of times Great video Eric
Great video! Thanks!
your the man eric great vid i feel more confident now removing my cylinder
Eric you are a bloody legend! This has saved me an absolute headache!!
Just saved me 4hrs of anxiety doing this exact replacement on my G20 van :)
Oh yes, here we go. My new go to guy for car stuff. Awesome job!:)
Thanks Eric! You just made my Wednesday. Good day sir.
There are two types of ppl in this world. Those who have experienced the thrill of changing drum brakes, and those who have not!
Hi Eric! My name is Theo! Im 23 years old and the last year i got in to auto repair! Im still trying to learn things and your videos help me alot! You, chris, the car doctor and rnw has pretty much taught me everything i know (so far). I hope you keep doing these videos for many years to come.
You mentioned in the video that you push in the Pistons in the cylinder to make sure they can move easily, but what if they have a bit of resistance/barely moving? What would you do (if you cant get new one’s at the moment) ? Any kind of lube you could use? I understand that a brand new cylinder wouldnt usually have that problem, but, ”what if”?
Maybe you could make a video about brake cylinders? Cutting one open and show us how they work?
Thanks for the comment. I strongly recommend an automotive education if you're looking to get into auto repair. Usually the pistons move easily for me. It's just the initial movement that's difficult. Too bad I threw away the old wheel cylinder. That might have made a good video as you pointed out. Good luck in your career.
Thank you for this video Eric I broke off my bleeder screw and I have to replace my cylinder I'm going to try to do it myself
Apply anti-seize to brake bleeder screw to help bleed brakes NEXT time.
That is one thing I ALWAYS do as well. Nothing worse than mangling stupid bleeder screws.
I wish I did just that the last time I bleeded my brakes. Now my bleeder values are frozen and the two bolts to remove them too. YIKES!
That works great on the type of adjuster shown. If you have the type with the adjuster on the bottom like on an old chevy you want to run it all the way in and then take off the 2 return springs. Also if you use clamp off pliers on the nearest rubber line before you disconnect the brake lines then it won't drain the whole system and will bleed that much faster when you put everything back together.
My friend you make a great teacher.
what type of flare fitting and nut is on the wheel cylinder?
Would you consider just replacing this brake line?
Nice shortcut ya posted here.
Looking forward to the upcoming video about how to deal with a brake line that's stuck on, and turning with the nut. I had a near identical problem with my first car many moons ago, difference being it was the fuel line stuck to it's nut & twisting with it when I was trying to replace the fuel filter.
('83 Mustang GL w/ a 3.8L V6... filter was mounted to the carburetor)
The line kinked & broke, I ended up patching it with a length of fuel-safe hose & some tiny hose clamps after using a hacksaw to cut off the damaged ends.
That video will go live on Friday. Interesting fix.
great video; so glad I no longer have to regularly deal with drum brakes anymore... damn springs; granted my subaru uses a drum brake within the disc setup for the handbrake, but I just replaced everything in there at 120k miles, so I don't have to touch it for another 13 years/120k miles.
Thank you for sharing. That technique will save a ton of time.
Wait, What? WHAT? WTF!!!! I love this as I'm about do all the brakes on my car but just the cylinders in the rear. I also love this trick cause it's so simple and easy. Ok I subscribed, keep up the good work.
Excellent explanation and camera work. Love your channel
Good info
Thanks for the video. You teach better than my instructor
Excellent......drum brakes are the Devil's invention......too many small parts and springs that want to come apart when you do work in this area... if you don't have 3 or 4 hands. This tip is well-received and EXCELLENT. One question.....do you "clamp" the soft part of the brake line while doing this work to avoid excess brake fluid leakage while it's all apart? Lastly...YES....the "gravity" method for brake bleeding/filling is the absolute BEST way to bleed brakes even if it's not the fastest way. No way for air-bubbles and air traps.....good point !!!! Oh...one more thing....a lot of cars have a removable rubber plug so you can use your screwdriver from BEHIND the wheel hub ......often gives you more room and access to move the adjustment wheel. Super !!!......
Eric is God haha thanks so much I didn’t know there was an adjuster and my shoes where stuck open
I use a pry br and a couple quick clamps to replace wheel cylinders without disturbing the shoe adjuster. Pry each shoe till it is just free from adjuster and clamp it to the backing plate. Replace cylinder and remove clamps and you're done.
Thank you Bro... It helps me saving time from replacing my wheel cylinder...
great video. I have not thought of doing it that way. Thanks for the video.
Good information. At one time Cal-Van made a tool to speed up the process "27100 Brake Shoe Spreader". Unfortunately it's no longer available. I contacted Cal Van but needless to say, I don't have much pull with Cal Van. But now Eric, if you were to contact them...
Awesome tip just about to do them for my pops on his pathfinder
short, and to the point. i always check your PROFESSIONAL vids. keep them coming!
Thank you so much for this video سپاسگزارم
Thanks. You’re video are very helpful.
Great video. Eric wound I be able to perform the same with the from drum brakes cylinder on a 63 impala ?
I really appreciate your video. It saved me a lot of time !
Thanks for the helpful instructional...saved me some effort and time.
Thanks. How far do you turn the adjuster back when you're putting everything back?
Thanks Bro , Saved me a lot of time and Money
Is the brake adjustment necessary because you loosened that adjustment screw to bypass removing the brakes or is this procedure necessary regardless
Maybe I'm wrong, but it doesn't seem that this procedure will work if the adjuster is a the bottom, like in my '68 Ford Galaxie... It's got factory front-disc/rear-drum brakes, but the adjuster for the back brakes is at the bottom -- it pushes the bottom of the shoes in or out. The wheel cylinder is at the top, like in this example, of course. Seems that in my case, making the adjuster expand the shoes would tighten their grip on the wheel cylinder at the top? Maybe I'm wrong... I'll have to take a look next time I'm in my brakes on that car...
Probable you just have to remove the return springs
It still works. Once you break the line loose from the wheel cylinder you can compress the pistons and remove the wheel cylinder.
EricTheCarGuy I think loosening the bottom adjuster helps the top stay out of the way of the piston pieces. I just remove the whole adjuster on me old Chevy's.
I used deep vice grips and held the shoes against the backing plate www.toolup.com/Vise-Grip-4sp-4-Locking-Clamp-with-Swivel-Pads-4SP
neat trick on old bendix brakes. Remove the line and bolts holding the wheel cylinder on the backing plate,then just reach in with a screwdriver and push the E-brake lever which attaches to the rear (secondary) shoe toward the front of the car to activate the same way the e-brake cable does and the brake shoes seperate from the wheel cylinder enough for you to pull the cylinder out with your other hand.You can also just put the E-brake on gently once your ready to pull the cylinder out and it will hold the shoes out while you change the cylinder. This doesn't work on front drum brakes but just remove the top return springs and they are easy to do as well.