@@Slipps-t7 the symbol comes on when you plug the controller in to the power and then goes off. So maybe it is possible or maybe it comes on automatically when you reach a certain altitude? I t is so hard to find anything on them at all
So many thanks, spent 3 days trying every combination of button press to enter H OFF mode to do the initial prime. Followed your video and within 30 seconds it was priming!
Great video. This controller is a bit different to others and the manual is crap. So thanks for this. I couldnt get mine into thermostatic mode until i watched this. 😊
I have the same controller and have spent ages trying to get my pump to purge. I was phafing with the ok and down the same as the old controllers. I even tested my pump directly to the battery. So happy I found your video I couldn't wait to go and check if I could get the pump to prime. Whaheyyy my pump is clicking. Thankyou. 👏👏👏👏
Thank you so much for this video it is a great help setting the heater up. I was messing around for hours trying to set the unit from the useless instruction booklet.
Let's all pause now for a moment of disgust for multifunction interfaces which require puzzle solving skills to operate. Remember when one switch performed one function? Yes, those were the days. This is right up there with those cheap watches no one can ever figure out turn off the alarm that goes off at 3am.
@@caddyguy5369 Nobody said it was rocket science. The issue is why build something simple like a heater that needs an online manual just to operate basic functions. Multifunction buttons are bad user interface design. Only reason it is done: Smaller & Cheaper. I'd pay a few pennies more to have an extra one-button-per-function interface.
Many thanks. Watched your video and a few minutes later my heater was up and running. The importer would do well to include a link to your explanation and junk it’s useless manual. That said my heater is working brilliantly now I know the start procedure.
hey thanks so much for this.def saved me a load of my hairs. one things im not sure about is on the temp settings when i go through there are 3 different centigrad settings. 2 with a big C and one with a small c and wondeirng if you know what they mean. thx j
Cool and thanks. I think the changes you make after you put in the code need to be more explained though rather than just you can change that to that. Would be good to find out what changing those does and make an updated video.
Super useful with the pinned comment thanks! Mine came with this and I worked out the 1234 code but had no idea what the rest meant. So I assume all the pulse rates are fixed for each pump size and heater version now? Anyone tested whether switching to the 28ml setting on 22ml pump or 2000w setting on a 5000w heater brings the tick rate down and gets a leaner burn? Might be a glitch way to get the missing alpine mode. Seems like they have wised up to people messing with settings and destroying heaters so locked people out of the fan speed and tick rate 😂 Just to point out both the timers run concurrently, so if you want heater to come on in 1 hour for 2 hours you need to set 01:00 in the first menu then 03:00 in the second. So stupid that the thing has a clock but doesn't let you set by time making us count forward manually. At least it doesn't have the silly hours in decimal controller though!
I'm interested to see how to get a leaner burn. After seeing many people do videos with the old controller and saying how it keeps the inside clean I think it would be good. Wonder if there's a secret secret menu...
@@danielc6034 I don't think they giving access to the pulse rate and fan speed anymore. Probably to many returns because people destroyed heaters! Turning up a fan max rated at 5000rpm to 5000 always was a sure way to kill it quickly. Or 8hz tick rate in a smaller heater. My front room is way bigger than a average garage what these were designed for and hell I'd die if I ran it on p10 for a few hours. That's by dehydration not CO 😂 I'd like to tone it down a little tbh but I don't think we are getting that in the settings anymore. It's the nature of the beast run large heater under capacity it soots up. Run small heater over capacity it dies. They wised up and made the default settings foolproof... But still, turning a 5kw into 2kw does it reduce the tick rate? If you tell it there's a 28ml pump does it tick less to compensate or does it send a bigger charge for a bigger pump and destroy a 22ml? Logic tells me they aren't that smart and you'd get the leanest burn by setting 28ml pump in a 2kw heater and it would pump less fuel. But then you could also say set it at 16mil it will pump less fuel because it expected the smaller pump. My head hurts now let's stay warm and CO free 😂
@Matt Cooley :) Thanks. Hopefully these are all questions someone will answer with a bit of time. I don't have any tools accurate enough to test these settings.
@@danielc6034 Tested with a click counter app on phone. Does exactly what I though. 2K setting and 28ml pump reduce the tick rate by about 0.3Hz each. Default H 22 is 1.6Hz on P1 L28 is 1.0Hz (Struggles to light) H28 1.3Hz H16 is about 2.2Hz Left mine on 28ml and it's toned the lowest setting down perfectly and maintains temp now rather than increasing
@Matt Cooley Amazing! Going to change the pump setting I'm a sec when it stop raining. Mines on p1 at the minute slowly raising but have all the doors shut so smaller space. Did you notice fan speed change?
Hi there great vid, best explanation I've seen so far. I wonder if you could tell me how you actually set the desired cabin temp please. I'm sure it obvious but bit not too sure.
Hey, sorry I have only just seen this. You need to go into thermostatic mode so the celsius reading not the power 1-10 reading then set that number to what ever you want the temp to be. However the heater will not turn off when the ambient temp of the room reaches the set temp it will just turn down to its lowest power to maintain the heat. So if you have a well insulated space it will just keep getting hotter and hotter. For small well insulated space it is best to use power mode and find the sweet spot. This video explains that side of things if you are interested. When the video talks about hz mode it is talking about your p1-10 settings in case it confuses you. We also have loads of other helpful diesel heater videos on our channel if you get the time check them out :) th-cam.com/video/uyzIfBwJMWg/w-d-xo.html
Check the pinned post, P or T for power mode (manual) or temperature control, next digit: 1 for 12V, 2 for 24V.... 3rd digit: H for 5K or L for 2K... 4th digit : pump value: 1 for 16ml, 2 for 22ml, 8 for 28ml.... so really nothing you want to change unless using 24v or different pump... given you can choose manual or temperature without going into admin mode... so the values should be set for normal 12v hook up... mine stated P1H2 when i logged in... manual/12v/5KW/22ml pump... so no fan speed and pump setting to play with at all, it seems they are well set up anyhow, so one thing less to do... :) unless of course you grab an afterburner controller (checking circuit board type first)
This is awesome thank you..One quick question. Mines all installed today. All working perfectly except the led screen won't power out for. Dim but still there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is not the new version of this controller, it is the older version. The dead giveaway that it's the older version is the remote signal displayed at the upper left of the screen. Would love to see a real walkthrough of the new control though - can't figure out how to adjust fuel pump/fan speed. I've been using high-altitude mode to get the correct fuel-air mix
Brilliant video and I have the same controller but mine doesn’t switch the heater modes. I have p 1 to 10. I’m wondering if the controller can be swapped for an up to date version with wifi Bluetooth etc.
Thats annoying, in the video did you see the bit where I entered the pass code to the settings menu? If that works on yours the first option in the menu is p or t so you can switch that to move between modes. P is one T is the other. It would be possible if you changed the motherboard and controller at the same time but they are not available anywhere for sale yet so you would need to find one
Yeah if you watch it again and the bit where I enter the settings menu where the options are P OR T you can change it there. I think you need to change from P to T if its in T try changing to P
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide thanks so much that worked. Another question. We are traveling & the screen is dull. If I knock it it brightens. We went to use first time tonight, pushed ‘on’ the remote, screen brightened, pushed ’on’ again but screen now black & doing nothing. Disconnected plug & reconnected but still black. ???
Thanks for this, so many other videos and instructions suggest other buttons for priming etc, spent ages trying to figure this out, not sure why this model is so different? (Triclicks 5kw bought on Amazon). My remote fob was already paired so didnt even need that step.
Got the Vevo heater... the triple tap on settings button to get into the 'hidden' menu don't work on mine. To prime mine, you have to press (and hold) up and down together. Can't figure out the remote or how to set clock. Seems different to all the previous lcd controller models... I think they've changed something deliberately.
hi mate, so on that controller you need to press the power button and the down button at the same time for 2 secs to enter the pairing mode. You can pair up to 5 remotes on that controller so you have to choose a number to pair it to between 1 - 5. If you want to set it as number 1 you just need to press the "on" button on the remote and it will pair. They don't have clocks though that type but do have count down timers to set it to come on in a certain amount of hours and mins up to 99 hours and 99 mins. And then you can set one to go off in a certain amount of hours and mins too
Ive just got one of these and the special settings menu is confusing to say the least , Ive got other heaters a 5kw and 2kw but ive always tried to get the blue lcd screens that have the code 9009 to access te special settings menu and they give you lots of adjustment of Hz and fan speed settings althougth I didnt find it to healthy to mess about to much as the carbon monoxide enters the hot air stream through the glow plug hole from the glow plug breather as tiny as it is we were getting 33 parts per million in our living area, I ended up using some high temp silicone fire sealent to put around the glow plug rubber cap. fortunately the heater is outside in a custom wooden box bolted to our outside wall. I was going to convert the latest addition to the collection a 5kw heater to the blue screen with the lcd remote but now ive seen your video I might give the screen it came with a try it seems that theirn are some better controls in its special setting menu like being able to run it as a 2kw or 5kw unit. I have noticed that a 2kw needs to be run at around 2.5 Hz for the same heat output as a 5kw at 1.7 hz making the 5kw slightly cheaper to run running the same size 22ml pump. the 5kw minmum setting is 1.7 Hz no matter how low you set the special settings menu on the blue Lcd display.the 2kw will alow you to go as low as 0.9 Hz but this is so low it practically wouldnt heat much of anything.
Well. I played around with the temp-settings. Set it on 25c. It started and no way to make it stop. Be careful (wife asleep). Killed it with switch before ignition. Some things to learn here i suppose...
My heater has been running fine for a few hours now, just like many other times, but now suddenly, the “oil pump fault” indicator is on. It is the same green indicator that shows up at 0:49 in your video when you begin the priming. The manual says about this indicator: * the “machine fault“ column refers to that indicator as “oil pump fault“ * in the “knob panel display“ column it says “4 indicator lights flash” (but this indicator is not flashing on my display, it is just sitting there, solid) * in the “handling method“ column, it says “check whether the oil pump is disconnected“ (but my van has not moved a bit, and the heater has not been touched, so I don’t know why or how there could be “oil pump is disconnected”.) Hot air is coming out the vent, but I wonder if this “oil pump fault” problem might be making it run not hot enough, or using too much of the diesel, or some other problem. Can anybody tell me what problem this symbol indicates might be happening, and what I might do to fix it? Thanks!
Hi, mine currently has no clock just dashes, no battery symbol at all. None of the buttons seem to work. Before I buy a new one, reckon it's that or the heater? 😁 It has been working fine.
When I try to enter the passcode, after I hit “OK” for each of the 4 spaces (1, 2, 3, and 4), the digit/character does not persist on the screen until the completion of the passcode, like it does on your video. Instead, after I select “1” for the 1st blinking dash, and then hit OK, it moves on to the next blinking dash (the 2nd one), but where I just entered “1” in the first blinking just goes back to a solid dash. Then after I do the same thing with the “2” in the 2nd blinking dash, and then hit “OK”, then it goes to the 3rd blinking dash leaving the 1st two dashes as solid, non-blinking dashes. Then the same thing happens for the 3rd and 4th dashes, and then it does not get me to the “secret“ menu or anything else different. Also, when I try any of the holding down 2 button combinations that you mentioned in this video, nothing happens. My controller only responds when I do anything only 1 button at a time. Anybody have any solutions or guidance for me with these 2 problems? Thanks!
How about using the app. I’ve seen a couple videos but I haven’t been able to get it to hook up. In one step they say to press the reset button. Which one is that? Thank you.
Wish it would work. All the buttons you press don’t work on mine. Although it is the same exact controller. Is there a way to reset the whole thing? Then it might work.
You need to go into the secret menu like shown in the video with the passcode. Then the first option is the voltage. 1=12v 2=24v. This is just the controller voltage though not the heater voltage. If you have a 24v set up you need a 24v heater
This video is extremely interesting for me because it shows the same controller that I got with my Triclicks 5kw heater but I cannot make it work in the same way. I want to change it from P-01, P-02, etc to deg C but pressing the buttons you suggest doesn't switch between the power and temp screen as you show. Any suggestions on how I can change it from P mode to temp mode?
does it have the same logos on it? We have a tutorial of one that came with a triclicks on our channel if you want to take a look it is one of the fist videos we made
@@damenfeld Sorry I just read the full comment from before. if it has p mode rather than a hz setting then that means it only has one mode. you cant do much with that type of controller its not a universal one
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide But you showed changing from P Mode to Temp mode on your video? I can't do that on the one I have :( am not looking for the advanced function or Hertz, just the way to change from P mode to temp :)
Any idea if you can increase the lower fan speed for higher altitude on this? You could do it on the opder ones in the secret menu but i cant figure it out in this one. Im high in the mountins at the mo and itll shut off randomly from time to time with no error code showing. Figure it needs more air flow
Just got one of these heaters with this controller, everything was just as in this video except I cannot change from temp mode. Pressing power and spanner buttons does absolutely nothing, am I missing something or is it a duff control panel?
spanner + ok for 3 secs or so... then admin mode by using spanner button to toggle down through time, timer1, timer2, then admin...enter the psw, then ok, then on the 4 digit display, change the t to a P using up or down arrow...
I have the same controller; however, nothing happens when I push the spanner and power buttons to switch between modes. Any suggestions? I've spend two days trying to fire it up and constantly get failed starts.
What are you calling that top left button? It sounds to me like you’re saying “spanner”. If that’s what you’re saying, what does “spanner” mean or refer to (I’m not familiar with that term)
Hi Ive the same controller with the spanner but can't get into the advanced settings when pressing it three times? It seems to be on 24v as I keep getting low voltage
I had the old type controller on my last heater, I could turn down the fuel to 0.8. My heater broke down so I bought a new one, spanner type, Question,, is there any way to turn the fuel down, fan speed down ?
Just installed my 5kw heater purchased from Onbuy. What a great piece of kit. Come with the same control as this one. They cannot produce much CO as I did a test in my garage. Left it on P5 for 1 hour with garage door closed. I kept a close eye on the CO detector in my garage and the highest it displayed was 33PPM. I normally keep the door slightly open as I cannot route the exhaust anywhere unless a cut a 25mm hole in the garage door.
i agree, i had a temp setup that was insecure and my extension pipe after the silencer came off and there was a very clean output with no real smell... they seem well set up with fuel/air ratio... :) not sure what Pvalue i was running at though... maybe 3-5... mainly because the manual bears no relation to the actual controller... and i had not yet found this video... thanks FB "the official chinese heater troubleshooting & support group" and thanks van life for the video... i was getting very frustrated with it... admin password especially but there isn't much to change there anyway as we see in the video... but still good to know in case of pump changes or running 24v... which i may try for faster glow plug heating... mine is going into a Powermac G5 casing and the power supply does have a 25v feed... if only i can frig the power mode... which i think i have figured but waiting on a 150ohm resister to fit to a switch to bring the power on low... and for a replacement tank to the 10L thing tank to the 5.5L tank that is used in the all-in-ones... sooooon....
Until it gets carbon build up and starts burning inefficiently. "Cannot" is incorrect and a dangerous assumption." Also, if a gasket fails it is possible for combustion gasses to get out of the combustion chamber and into the cabin. I haven't seen that personally, but it is possible. I have seen the gaskets on the espars are usually cracked or brittle when taking them apart for cleaning / maintenance. Usually they wouldn't light anymore and the exhaust just spews smoke at that point. I'm not sure at what point the gaskets crack though. I assume a considerable amount of time before it stops lighting. I used to work on a fleet of trucks with legit Espars. When they get dirty, you certainly don't want the smoke they can spew indoors without an exhaust system such as a shop would have.
Hi! I have a question, maybe you can help. I installed my diesel heater, all good, but every time I start it up it goes trough a procedure, fan starts to run, fuel pump starts to run for a while, firing up and than the fuel pump goes faster and faster, so it does the fan, and only after it slows down to my H1 slow choice. Is that normal, shouldn,t it start with the choosen speed? I have the feeling it always does a selfpriming procedure, with every startup. Thanks!
Hi yes, it means the controller isn't communicating with the motherboard. Have you changed either recently? Check the connections on the wiring loom are all clipped correctly. Take the connectors apart and make sure the pins inside are straight and not bent. Is it a new or used heater?
Not all is correct. This controler works with 2 different mother boards. You can buy this with either mother board. This video is the settings with the newer mother board. You can identify the newer board by the big "H" plastic channel on the parts side of the board. I prefer the older board because it can slow the pump speed down to .8cps pump speed, while the newer boards lowest pump speed is 2cps. This is a huge difference in heat and fuel consumption and battery life. The way to set up the older board is completely different. Everything is different than explained here. To start just push * to enter time. Use arrows to chose and OK to set. Once time is sett, press OK again to enter dealer code in 4 blank spaces, and it is different code. 1688 is sett to get to next level settings. Time start, next OK, time stop. Next OK is pump speed. Pump can be slowed to .8cps which is way slower than what this newer mother board is capable of. It's slowest speed is 2cps. I find this is too fast and too hot for mild weather. That's almost 3 times faster than the older board. 3 times as much fuel consumed as well. It also runs down batteries too fast. In order to use .8cps, you must next sett max pump speed slower to 3cps max. I'm not sure why this has to be set lower, but the lowered .8cps can't register when working unless the max speed is lowered. In the original controler without the fancy display, you did not have to resett the max pump speed to lowered setting. Keep hitting OK until all is complete to memorize setting, or it will just revert to original settings.
I don’t think there is such a thing as an 8kw heater. A guy did the math and it’s not possible. You can feed the heater with enough diesel but you can’t run the fan quick enough to cope.
VaclavMarcak 3 minutes ago Hi everyone - mainly Grantsyard and Van Life UK - thanks to them to explain "advance " programming after entering password code "1234". P & t is manual heat control or thermostat control, 1 & 2 is selection between 12V or 24V, H & L is 5000W or 2000W, last number is 1 - 16ml, 2 - 22ml, 8 - 28ml dosing pump. Today I tested my 5KW heater with this "spanner" setting button controller model - all perfect, on P-01 heater 175*C, exhaust 220*C, only two LEDs, on P-05 heater 190*C, exhaust 340*C, four LEDs, on P-10 heater 206*C, exhaust 490*C, six LEDs. A lot of heat out of exhaust - my intention is to make muffler combine with heat exchanger to heat water for additional small hydronic heater and shower in my mobile home as next stage. I hope that software is and will controlling fan speed & fuel dosing to good combustion without "manual" programming fan & fuel ratio as on older controllers. Personally - I'll prefer option for "manual" for case need to do it - going to top on mountains - do not know yet how this controller will behaviour. Good luck everyone, Vas.
Ive got the same controller but screen is blank when off but power connected. If I press the on button the heater starts to go through the start up procedure. Any ideas? Thanks
I have two of these units. I would not recommend them. They are a wretched to program and some of the options to adjust power modes will show up on one and not the other. Great video but spend the extra money on a better product.
P & T is manual heat or auto temp.
1 & 2 is 12v or 24v
H & L is 5000w or 2000w
1,2 & 8 is the pump size 16ml 22ml or 28ml
Awesome thanks for that mate, it is a huge help
The only thing I haven't found out is if there's a high altitude mode
@@Slipps-t7 the symbol comes on when you plug the controller in to the power and then goes off. So maybe it is possible or maybe it comes on automatically when you reach a certain altitude? I t is so hard to find anything on them at all
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide I do have a manual but it's very badly written
Thanks for that. How do we know what pump we have been supplied?
So many thanks, spent 3 days trying every combination of button press to enter H OFF mode to do the initial prime. Followed your video and within 30 seconds it was priming!
Brilliant . Thankyou for taking the time to do this . I was at a complete loss!👍
Great vid, please add a section on fault codes and explain the purpose of the options in secret menu
Great video. This controller is a bit different to others and the manual is crap. So thanks for this. I couldnt get mine into thermostatic mode until i watched this. 😊
Would never have figured that lot out ....ever!
Thank you 👍
No consistency between different controllers...
Thanks for the butt-saving video....seriously 🫡🫶🫡
Thanks so much, the heaters are great the supplied instructions are useless.
Once again thank you.👍
You sir are a quite something....thank you for your clear concise vid fixed my problem in a heart beat.
I have the same controller and have spent ages trying to get my pump to purge.
I was phafing with the ok and down the same as the old controllers. I even tested my pump directly to the battery.
So happy I found your video I couldn't wait to go and check if I could get the pump to prime.
Whaheyyy my pump is clicking.
Thankyou. 👏👏👏👏
Hi dave can you explain how you got your pump to start clicking
I have brand new heater but can't prime
@@adriansykes8735 hi Adrian if you have the same controller as in this video just follow the instructions.
Thank you so much for this video it is a great help setting the heater up.
I was messing around for hours trying to set the unit from the useless instruction booklet.
Best explanation I’ve seen so far!
great help this video just bought a heater with this style of control got it heating my house
Thank you! Followed a few videos on how to prime and it wasnt working. Glad you worked it out! Much love.
glad I found this video cos the instructions I got with my heater were shite
Brilliant. The best explanation I' ve come across. Thanks 👍
Let's all pause now for a moment of disgust for multifunction interfaces which require puzzle solving skills to operate. Remember when one switch performed one function? Yes, those were the days. This is right up there with those cheap watches no one can ever figure out turn off the alarm that goes off at 3am.
:) ^ Brill. I had a watch for about 2 years with a alarm going off in my house. Never found it as it would stop to quick
So true - I couldn't agree more! But I suspect there's actually many people who quite enjoy making things complicated.
I'm there..
It really only requires reading comprehension if one reads the manual. :-)
Video is quicker than finding it or downloading one though.
@@caddyguy5369 Nobody said it was rocket science. The issue is why build something simple like a heater that needs an online manual just to operate basic functions. Multifunction buttons are bad user interface design. Only reason it is done: Smaller & Cheaper. I'd pay a few pennies more to have an extra one-button-per-function interface.
Many thanks. Watched your video and a few minutes later my heater was up and running. The importer would do well to include a link to your explanation and junk it’s useless manual. That said my heater is working brilliantly now I know the start procedure.
If you need getting e08 after priming check the filler cap is letting air in. I have just worked this out
Thank you I have just set my heater up thanks to your great video cheers
Thank you so much for this tutorial!!
hey thanks so much for this.def saved me a load of my hairs.
one things im not sure about is on the temp settings when i go through there are 3 different centigrad settings. 2 with a big C and one with a small c and wondeirng if you know what they mean. thx j
Brilliant easy to follow tutorial , thank you!
Cool and thanks. I think the changes you make after you put in the code need to be more explained though rather than just you can change that to that. Would be good to find out what changing those does and make an updated video.
Awesome, how do you change it to high altitude mode
Thank you for a really helpful video
Super useful with the pinned comment thanks! Mine came with this and I worked out the 1234 code but had no idea what the rest meant. So I assume all the pulse rates are fixed for each pump size and heater version now?
Anyone tested whether switching to the 28ml setting on 22ml pump or 2000w setting on a 5000w heater brings the tick rate down and gets a leaner burn? Might be a glitch way to get the missing alpine mode. Seems like they have wised up to people messing with settings and destroying heaters so locked people out of the fan speed and tick rate 😂
Just to point out both the timers run concurrently, so if you want heater to come on in 1 hour for 2 hours you need to set 01:00 in the first menu then 03:00 in the second. So stupid that the thing has a clock but doesn't let you set by time making us count forward manually. At least it doesn't have the silly hours in decimal controller though!
I'm interested to see how to get a leaner burn.
After seeing many people do videos with the old controller and saying how it keeps the inside clean I think it would be good.
Wonder if there's a secret secret menu...
@@danielc6034 I don't think they giving access to the pulse rate and fan speed anymore. Probably to many returns because people destroyed heaters! Turning up a fan max rated at 5000rpm to 5000 always was a sure way to kill it quickly. Or 8hz tick rate in a smaller heater. My front room is way bigger than a average garage what these were designed for and hell I'd die if I ran it on p10 for a few hours. That's by dehydration not CO 😂
I'd like to tone it down a little tbh but I don't think we are getting that in the settings anymore. It's the nature of the beast run large heater under capacity it soots up. Run small heater over capacity it dies. They wised up and made the default settings foolproof...
But still, turning a 5kw into 2kw does it reduce the tick rate? If you tell it there's a 28ml pump does it tick less to compensate or does it send a bigger charge for a bigger pump and destroy a 22ml?
Logic tells me they aren't that smart and you'd get the leanest burn by setting 28ml pump in a 2kw heater and it would pump less fuel. But then you could also say set it at 16mil it will pump less fuel because it expected the smaller pump. My head hurts now let's stay warm and CO free 😂
@Matt Cooley :) Thanks. Hopefully these are all questions someone will answer with a bit of time.
I don't have any tools accurate enough to test these settings.
@@danielc6034 Tested with a click counter app on phone. Does exactly what I though. 2K setting and 28ml pump reduce the tick rate by about 0.3Hz each.
Default H 22 is 1.6Hz on P1
L28 is 1.0Hz (Struggles to light)
H28 1.3Hz
H16 is about 2.2Hz
Left mine on 28ml and it's toned the lowest setting down perfectly and maintains temp now rather than increasing
@Matt Cooley Amazing! Going to change the pump setting I'm a sec when it stop raining. Mines on p1 at the minute slowly raising but have all the doors shut so smaller space.
Did you notice fan speed change?
Great, Thank You that was very helpfull.
Thanks, finally i got it to work. 😅🙏👏
Thank you.... Sir, this device.. to whom is it connected... and what does it do? I know that it is a diesel operating control....
Hi there great vid, best explanation I've seen so far. I wonder if you could tell me how you actually set the desired cabin temp please. I'm sure it obvious but bit not too sure.
Hey, sorry I have only just seen this. You need to go into thermostatic mode so the celsius reading not the power 1-10 reading then set that number to what ever you want the temp to be.
However the heater will not turn off when the ambient temp of the room reaches the set temp it will just turn down to its lowest power to maintain the heat.
So if you have a well insulated space it will just keep getting hotter and hotter. For small well insulated space it is best to use power mode and find the sweet spot. This video explains that side of things if you are interested. When the video talks about hz mode it is talking about your p1-10 settings in case it confuses you.
We also have loads of other helpful diesel heater videos on our channel if you get the time check them out :) th-cam.com/video/uyzIfBwJMWg/w-d-xo.html
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide Ah thst makes sense, I allways thought it was thermostatic and just maintained desired temp.
This is the controller I have, great video for the settings but what I'd really like to know is what the settings in the advanced menu actually do ?
Were on it, not 1005 sure but tomorrow we are going to crack it out again and work it out and film what we know after :)
Check the pinned post, P or T for power mode (manual) or temperature control, next digit: 1 for 12V, 2 for 24V.... 3rd digit: H for 5K or L for 2K... 4th digit : pump value: 1 for 16ml, 2 for 22ml, 8 for 28ml.... so really nothing you want to change unless using 24v or different pump... given you can choose manual or temperature without going into admin mode... so the values should be set for normal 12v hook up... mine stated P1H2 when i logged in... manual/12v/5KW/22ml pump... so no fan speed and pump setting to play with at all, it seems they are well set up anyhow, so one thing less to do... :) unless of course you grab an afterburner controller (checking circuit board type first)
This is awesome thank you..One quick question. Mines all installed today. All working perfectly except the led screen won't power out for. Dim but still there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is not the new version of this controller, it is the older version.
The dead giveaway that it's the older version is the remote signal displayed at the upper left of the screen.
Would love to see a real walkthrough of the new control though - can't figure out how to adjust fuel pump/fan speed. I've been using high-altitude mode to get the correct fuel-air mix
I would also be interested as I can't adjust the fan speed also, only the temperature?
You can't, all that functionality has been taken out. Just basic heat settings including alpine mode and timer/temperature settings.
@@paulb8186 I've found away to doit.. so you can have the temperature or fan speed settings
@@SunsetDrift how did you do it the fan speed work?
Brilliant video and I have the same controller but mine doesn’t switch the heater modes. I have p 1 to 10. I’m wondering if the controller can be swapped for an up to date version with wifi Bluetooth etc.
Thats annoying, in the video did you see the bit where I entered the pass code to the settings menu? If that works on yours the first option in the menu is p or t so you can switch that to move between modes. P is one T is the other.
It would be possible if you changed the motherboard and controller at the same time but they are not available anywhere for sale yet so you would need to find one
Great video. I have this new model lcd with spanner but I’m not able to set Celsius temp at all. Can change the p setting. Any suggestions?
Yeah if you watch it again and the bit where I enter the settings menu where the options are P OR T you can change it there. I think you need to change from P to T if its in T try changing to P
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide thanks so much that worked. Another question. We are traveling & the screen is dull. If I knock it it brightens. We went to use first time tonight, pushed ‘on’ the remote, screen brightened, pushed ’on’ again but screen now black & doing nothing. Disconnected plug & reconnected but still black. ???
Struggled for ages best explanation on here thank you
Thankyou very much!
Thanks for this, so many other videos and instructions suggest other buttons for priming etc, spent ages trying to figure this out, not sure why this model is so different? (Triclicks 5kw bought on Amazon). My remote fob was already paired so didnt even need that step.
Got the Vevo heater... the triple tap on settings button to get into the 'hidden' menu don't work on mine.
To prime mine, you have to press (and hold) up and down together.
Can't figure out the remote or how to set clock. Seems different to all the previous lcd controller models...
I think they've changed something deliberately.
hi mate, so on that controller you need to press the power button and the down button at the same time for 2 secs to enter the pairing mode.
You can pair up to 5 remotes on that controller so you have to choose a number to pair it to between 1 - 5.
If you want to set it as number 1 you just need to press the "on" button on the remote and it will pair.
They don't have clocks though that type but do have count down timers to set it to come on in a certain amount of hours and mins up to 99 hours and 99 mins. And then you can set one to go off in a certain amount of hours and mins too
Try taking the fuse out then going directly to pairing
Legend thank you
Thanks for this!
hi can this style controller (with spanner) be swapped out for the normal universal type?
life saver,thanks!
Is there anyway to change clock to 12hr and temp to Fahrenheit?
Does anyone know what a red circle with horizontal line in it means? It's started showing in bottom left of screen.
Any idea how to get a switched live? Want to add a fan that only comes on when the heaters running.
I just want to find someone who's controller works like mine. Haha.
is it not the same as this one?
Mines the same, spanner icon but doesn't work the same as one in video!!
Ive just got one of these and the special settings menu is confusing to say the least , Ive got other heaters a 5kw and 2kw but ive always tried to get the blue lcd screens that have the code 9009 to access te special settings menu and they give you lots of adjustment of Hz and fan speed settings althougth I didnt find it to healthy to mess about to much as the carbon monoxide enters the hot air stream through the glow plug hole from the glow plug breather as tiny as it is we were getting 33 parts per million in our living area, I ended up using some high temp silicone fire sealent to put around the glow plug rubber cap. fortunately the heater is outside in a custom wooden box bolted to our outside wall. I was going to convert the latest addition to the collection a 5kw heater to the blue screen with the lcd remote but now ive seen your video I might give the screen it came with a try it seems that theirn are some better controls in its special setting menu like being able to run it as a 2kw or 5kw unit. I have noticed that a 2kw needs to be run at around 2.5 Hz for the same heat output as a 5kw at 1.7 hz making the 5kw slightly cheaper to run running the same size 22ml pump. the 5kw minmum setting is 1.7 Hz no matter how low you set the special settings menu on the blue Lcd display.the 2kw will alow you to go as low as 0.9 Hz but this is so low it practically wouldnt heat much of anything.
Well. I played around with the temp-settings. Set it on 25c. It started and no way to make it stop. Be careful (wife asleep). Killed it with switch before ignition. Some things to learn here i suppose...
My heater has been running fine for a few hours now, just like many other times, but now suddenly, the “oil pump fault” indicator is on.
It is the same green indicator that shows up at 0:49 in your video when you begin the priming.
The manual says about this indicator:
* the “machine fault“ column refers to that indicator as “oil pump fault“
* in the “knob panel display“ column it says “4 indicator lights flash” (but this indicator is not flashing on my display, it is just sitting there, solid)
* in the “handling method“ column, it says “check whether the oil pump is disconnected“ (but my van has not moved a bit, and the heater has not been touched, so I don’t know why or how there could be “oil pump is disconnected”.)
Hot air is coming out the vent, but I wonder if this “oil pump fault” problem might be making it run not hot enough, or using too much of the diesel, or some other problem.
Can anybody tell me what problem this symbol indicates might be happening, and what I might do to fix it?
Thanks!
Its not a fault it just means that the pump is on. If it doesn't come on you have a fault. A spanner is the British word for a wrench
@@vanlifesurvivorsguidethanks!
Hi, mine currently has no clock just dashes, no battery symbol at all. None of the buttons seem to work. Before I buy a new one, reckon it's that or the heater? 😁 It has been working fine.
its sounds like the connection between the b=controller and wiring loom. have you unclipped it? is it new or have you been using it for a while
When I try to enter the passcode, after I hit “OK” for each of the 4 spaces (1, 2, 3, and 4), the digit/character does not persist on the screen until the completion of the passcode, like it does on your video.
Instead, after I select “1” for the 1st blinking dash, and then hit OK, it moves on to the next blinking dash (the 2nd one), but where I just entered “1” in the first blinking just goes back to a solid dash.
Then after I do the same thing with the “2” in the 2nd blinking dash, and then hit “OK”, then it goes to the 3rd blinking dash leaving the 1st two dashes as solid, non-blinking dashes.
Then the same thing happens for the 3rd and 4th dashes, and then it does not get me to the “secret“ menu or anything else different.
Also, when I try any of the holding down 2 button combinations that you mentioned in this video, nothing happens.
My controller only responds when I do anything only 1 button at a time.
Anybody have any solutions or guidance for me with these 2 problems?
Thanks!
Is there an alpine mode on this controller?
How about using the app. I’ve seen a couple videos but I haven’t been able to get it to hook up. In one step they say to press the reset button. Which one is that? Thank you.
Wish it would work. All the buttons you press don’t work on mine. Although it is the same exact controller. Is there a way to reset the whole thing? Then it might work.
Hi what is the purpose of the network bars on the top left of the control?
It is the signal for the remote control
I only have 5 levels of heat. Is there a way to unlock ten? I'd love to be able to turn it down more.
I just got mine and it says E-2 and I don’t know what to do or hit to fix it. Iva ran it off a jackery and a lithium battery and both say e-2
E02 is over voltage... try a car battery if one available...
Does anyone know how to decrease the fan speed? Its stucked on MAX. please. Thank you
Still trying to find Alpine mode
Hi, I have this control unit, how do I change between 12 volt /24 volt .thanks guys.
You need to go into the secret menu like shown in the video with the passcode. Then the first option is the voltage. 1=12v 2=24v. This is just the controller voltage though not the heater voltage. If you have a 24v set up you need a 24v heater
This video is extremely interesting for me because it shows the same controller that I got with my Triclicks 5kw heater but I cannot make it work in the same way. I want to change it from P-01, P-02, etc to deg C but pressing the buttons you suggest doesn't switch between the power and temp screen as you show.
Any suggestions on how I can change it from P mode to temp mode?
does it have the same logos on it? We have a tutorial of one that came with a triclicks on our channel if you want to take a look it is one of the fist videos we made
Yes, the icons (if that is what you mean by logos) are the same, spanner rather than a settings icon.
@@damenfeld Sorry I just read the full comment from before. if it has p mode rather than a hz setting then that means it only has one mode. you cant do much with that type of controller its not a universal one
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide But you showed changing from P Mode to Temp mode on your video? I can't do that on the one I have :( am not looking for the advanced function or Hertz, just the way to change from P mode to temp :)
@@damenfeld Does it let you enter a menu with a pass code or can you even get to that screen?
Any idea if you can increase the lower fan speed for higher altitude on this? You could do it on the opder ones in the secret menu but i cant figure it out in this one. Im high in the mountins at the mo and itll shut off randomly from time to time with no error code showing. Figure it needs more air flow
Any chance you can do a video on the maXpeedingrods Bluetooth controller
We will do as soon as we can. We don't have the controller at the moment but will have it soon
Does this controller have alpine mode ?
If so ,how do you turn it on and off .
How do i change the temp readout from Celsius to fahrenheit?
Do you have to prime every time from cold?
Just got one of these heaters with this controller, everything was just as in this video except I cannot change from temp mode. Pressing power and spanner buttons does absolutely nothing, am I missing something or is it a duff control panel?
Looks like me and you have the same controller.
spanner + ok for 3 secs or so... then admin mode by using spanner button to toggle down through time, timer1, timer2, then admin...enter the psw, then ok, then on the 4 digit display, change the t to a P using up or down arrow...
@@timkelly5602 👍 cheers,I'll give that a try
I have the same controller, does anyone know how to set alpine or plateau mode as some call it?
How do you turn the alpine mode , on and off ?
How do you change the temperature with this controller? Cheers
With the 5 button full function controller, can you change from Celsius to Fahrenheit?
you can on this controller, we have another video on our page on how to do it. Other controllers normally no
Does the timer set then work on a 24 cycle ? Thanks
I have the same controller; however, nothing happens when I push the spanner and power buttons to switch between modes. Any suggestions?
I've spend two days trying to fire it up and constantly get failed starts.
We are having the same problem .
I have same looking controller only temp/ set by holding both up and down at same time.
Just hold spanner for 2 secs on some.
What are you calling that top left button? It sounds to me like you’re saying “spanner”. If that’s what you’re saying, what does “spanner” mean or refer to (I’m not familiar with that term)
In Australia a spanner is a wrench. Probably in England too ..
(Texan living in Oz) 👍🏻🫡👍🏻
Hi Ive the same controller with the spanner but can't get into the advanced settings when pressing it three times? It seems to be on 24v as I keep getting low voltage
How do you turn on alpine mode with this style controller?
I had the old type controller on my last heater, I could turn down the fuel to 0.8.
My heater broke down so I bought a new one, spanner type, Question,, is there any way to turn the fuel down, fan speed down ?
👍👍👍
Hi I have just bought one of these and it keeps coming up with e01 error code but it's a brand new battery can anyone help?
it could be volt drop, the cables to the battery might be too thin. Check out our error codes video
Thanks
@vanlifesurvivorsguide what size cable should it be please?
HOLD UP AND DOWN it will prime while holding just let go as you see it enter
Do you know how to set this unit to “altitude mode”?
Is it possible to disable rolling code on these heaters?
Just installed my 5kw heater purchased from Onbuy. What a great piece of kit. Come with the same control as this one. They cannot produce much CO as I did a test in my garage. Left it on P5 for 1 hour with garage door closed. I kept a close eye on the CO detector in my garage and the highest it displayed was 33PPM. I normally keep the door slightly open as I cannot route the exhaust anywhere unless a cut a 25mm hole in the garage door.
i agree, i had a temp setup that was insecure and my extension pipe after the silencer came off and there was a very clean output with no real smell... they seem well set up with fuel/air ratio... :) not sure what Pvalue i was running at though... maybe 3-5... mainly because the manual bears no relation to the actual controller... and i had not yet found this video... thanks FB "the official chinese heater troubleshooting & support group" and thanks van life for the video... i was getting very frustrated with it... admin password especially but there isn't much to change there anyway as we see in the video... but still good to know in case of pump changes or running 24v... which i may try for faster glow plug heating... mine is going into a Powermac G5 casing and the power supply does have a 25v feed... if only i can frig the power mode... which i think i have figured but waiting on a 150ohm resister to fit to a switch to bring the power on low... and for a replacement tank to the 10L thing tank to the 5.5L tank that is used in the all-in-ones... sooooon....
Until it gets carbon build up and starts burning inefficiently.
"Cannot" is incorrect and a dangerous assumption."
Also, if a gasket fails it is possible for combustion gasses to get out of the combustion chamber and into the cabin. I haven't seen that personally, but it is possible.
I have seen the gaskets on the espars are usually cracked or brittle when taking them apart for cleaning / maintenance. Usually they wouldn't light anymore and the exhaust just spews smoke at that point. I'm not sure at what point the gaskets crack though. I assume a considerable amount of time before it stops lighting.
I used to work on a fleet of trucks with legit Espars. When they get dirty, you certainly don't want the smoke they can spew indoors without an exhaust system such as a shop would have.
Do you have to prime it every time you start from cold?
No. It just sorts itself out. @@weymufffisher
Was the last function fan speed so the maximum speed can be lowered to keep the burn chamber hotter?
Ignore that, thanks slipps
how do you change the voltage from 24 to 12
Watch the bit where we get into the settings menu with the pin code. The 2nd option is 12v or 24v 1 is 12v or 2 is 24v
Hi! I have a question, maybe you can help. I installed my diesel heater, all good, but every time I start it up it goes trough a procedure, fan starts to run, fuel pump starts to run for a while, firing up and than the fuel pump goes faster and faster, so it does the fan, and only after it slows down to my H1 slow choice. Is that normal, shouldn,t it start with the choosen speed? I have the feeling it always does a selfpriming procedure, with every startup. Thanks!
as I know it ,the fan not only controls the air outside the combustion chamber but inside it,, and a high setting would cool glow plug on startup.
Hello I am getting a E07 code and I cannot figure it out. Can you please help me
Hi yes, it means the controller isn't communicating with the motherboard. Have you changed either recently? Check the connections on the wiring loom are all clipped correctly. Take the connectors apart and make sure the pins inside are straight and not bent. Is it a new or used heater?
Not all is correct. This controler works with 2 different mother boards. You can buy this with either mother board. This video is the settings with the newer mother board. You can identify the newer board by the big "H" plastic channel on the parts side of the board.
I prefer the older board because it can slow the pump speed down to .8cps pump speed, while the newer boards lowest pump speed is 2cps. This is a huge difference in heat and fuel consumption and battery life.
The way to set up the older board is completely different. Everything is different than explained here. To start just push * to enter time. Use arrows to chose and OK to set. Once time is sett, press OK again to enter dealer code in 4 blank spaces, and it is different code. 1688 is sett to get to next level settings. Time start, next OK, time stop. Next OK is pump speed. Pump can be slowed to .8cps which is way slower than what this newer mother board is capable of. It's slowest speed is 2cps.
I find this is too fast and too hot for mild weather. That's almost 3 times faster than the older board. 3 times as much fuel consumed as well. It also runs down batteries too fast. In order to use .8cps, you must next sett max pump speed slower to 3cps max. I'm not sure why this has to be set lower, but the lowered .8cps can't register when working unless the max speed is lowered.
In the original controler without the fancy display, you did not have to resett the max pump speed to lowered setting.
Keep hitting OK until all is complete to memorize setting, or it will just revert to original settings.
Thank you sir the user manuel directions are very vague
have exact same controller, it seems cannot set hi/low for hertz for tuning up... mine is from vevor 8kw
I don’t think there is such a thing as an 8kw heater. A guy did the math and it’s not possible. You can feed the heater with enough diesel but you can’t run the fan quick enough to cope.
I can't seem to change modes out of p-01/10 to •c any help would be great thanks
Hi mate, yeah go into the settings menu using the method and pin code shown in the video and then change the first setting from p to t
How do you change Celsius to Fahrenheit ?
either follow the video/ or use alt method of (up and down buttons at same time) for some models.
I bought this controller after purchasing a vevor12v heater... and it just flashes P-07
VaclavMarcak
3 minutes ago
Hi everyone - mainly Grantsyard and Van Life UK - thanks to them to explain "advance " programming after entering password code "1234". P & t is manual heat control or thermostat control, 1 & 2 is selection between 12V or 24V, H & L is 5000W or 2000W, last number is 1 - 16ml, 2 - 22ml, 8 - 28ml dosing pump.
Today I tested my 5KW heater with this "spanner" setting button controller model - all perfect, on P-01 heater 175*C, exhaust 220*C, only two LEDs, on P-05 heater 190*C, exhaust 340*C, four LEDs, on P-10 heater 206*C, exhaust 490*C, six LEDs. A lot of heat out of exhaust - my intention is to make muffler combine with heat exchanger to heat water for additional small hydronic heater and shower in my mobile home as next stage. I hope that software is and will controlling fan speed & fuel dosing to good combustion without "manual" programming fan & fuel ratio as on older controllers. Personally - I'll prefer option for "manual" for case need to do it - going to top on mountains - do not know yet how this controller will behaviour. Good luck everyone, Vas.
Whats the Wi-Fi icon?
Has this version got Wi-Fi?
It is the remote control radio signal, no it doesn't have wifi.
@@vanlifesurvivorsguide thought so thanks for clarifying
just got one with this control has anyone worked out what hertz the pump runs at with each p value
I would also like to know this
Lowest hertz setting is 1.2, this means 1.2 pumps per second, 1.3 is 1.3 pumps per second and so on.
Ive got the same controller but screen is blank when off but power connected. If I press the on button the heater starts to go through the start up procedure. Any ideas? Thanks
Faulty screen/controller, loose connection?
I have two of these units. I would not recommend them. They are a wretched to program and some of the options to adjust power modes will show up on one and not the other. Great video but spend the extra money on a better product.
My remote doesn’t work. Removed cover, no battery. I have no information about which battery I need. Does anyone know?
It is normally a 27a 12V battery. not a common one at all amzn.to/3G25m9e