Thanks for this Steve, My heater, after a years use I might add, went nuts. The pump just wouldn't slow down. Purchased a new motherboard and heat sensor, installed them and no difference, pull it apart and cleaned everything, took out the glow plug and blasted light oil from spray can through the mesh around the glow plug. All back together and,, no difference, the pump was hammering away causing dark grey smoke. There's no information anywhere on slowing your pump down, the basic settings are un-useable really. Getting into the advanced settings is a revelation! Cheers for the pin code! I set the pulse to .8 and the fan 1500 - 5000 and she's behaving herself again! She belts out the heat until the temps up and then goes whisper quiet with the pump ticking over at a slow heartbeat, every now and then she speeds up to clear the excess fuel and slows right back down again. Thank You Thank You!
thanks a lot, a Chinese friend of mine gave me a different heater with the numeric displays (not the graphical one) She translated what was engraved on the displays unit so I could understand what was written on it and what the little computer was telling me. Parts where missing or worn out, I bought them : a new heat plug (it was dead) a new pump (it was missing) and a bunch of new stainless meshes (it cant be bad) it was so cheep and came fast! your code 1688 worked perfectly and I was able to adapt the frequency to the new pump that was giving too much for this little unit. now I have a heater to use on my sailing boat even "unplugged" at sea thanks very much again
I have one of these heaters... The "OF", while I don't know what it means, is not related to the burner. it is, in fact, a menu that allows that lets you change the factory PIN. The factory pin is in fact 1688 and I used this menu to change it to 6666, just to make it easier to get into the advanced settings. The rest of your descriptions for the settings are spot on.
Thank you sooo much for making this video!!! Almost gave up on changing the fan speed and only keeping the pump on the lowest setting to stop it from overheating.
The SN setting 1 or 2 just after the voltage setting is about the number of magnets in the fanwheel. Just open up the heater and look between te controllerboard and the fan while rotate the fan with your hand and count the little metal round objects in the fan. If you count only one, then set SN to 1 and if you count two, obvoiously set SN to 2. This has to do with an acurate measuring of the fan speed.
It is possible to make the fuel pump tick over slower. How? I believe, its long time ago, you can somehow lower the minimum ticks per minute as the lowest value that it will run with. Mine was cooking me too. I think the 3 and 5 kw units are the same with just another minimum treshold..
@@douwe4549 you can if you purchase the quiet diesel pump there is a nob on the top there not cheap but a quality product he makes them him self well worth a look on utube
After playing with the setting I figured out you can set the rpm to 3500 for night time use about 2.5-2.7 pulse and the 1500rom idle at about 1.0-1.2 pulse at night in thermostat mode while sleeping
@@MorfMusic you need to match the pulse to the rpm to an extent, I found 1.4 at idle keeps both hot bars on 1.2 keeps one bar on and igniter stays off ( never had it turn back on but that would mean not enough fuel) you can adjust the max rpm to 3500 on auto and find the pulse that keeps the fire correct. If you leave the pulse at 5.0 it will flood the low rpm chamber and create smoke and stink
Thanks for a great guide. Especially the info on the 16688 entry into factory settings. My unit was smelling like hot plastic and it would often cut out after 10 min with [E-05] (Overheating). I logged into the factory settings and adjusted the minimum fan speed to 1900 RPM which solved both problems. More air = cooler temperature of the heater but the heat is still distributed into the room.
Great info, I have written it down for my future hiccups:) When I first set my unit up, it kept faulting with a E-006 code. It had never ran. This is suppose to be a misaligned magnet setting on the blower I reset the magnet pick up but every time I reset the power, it would fault out again. I moved it in a step at a time & out a step at a time. Powering off the unit after each adjustment. I read did in a post that if you held both arrow buttons in while reapplying the voltage it would clear the fault memory buffer. That fix it! Now the only thing I can't figure out is the first screen after power up. I has a message of message
I've not heard of the problem before Kelly..? So can't help with a fix I afraid. Good tip on resetting the unit though. Thank you and good luck 👍 Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads The odd thing is, If I let the unit sit overnight - Power Off, it will start the next day. I've given up on the injector pump, I have a new one coming in today. Will let you know how it goes
I have seen in comments on other videos the SN1 and SN2 changing to SN2 if you have an error 05 can sometimes fix it if there is no physical obstruction to airflow
when I first started mine, it belched smoke, fuel/air mixture settings are set by the max/min pump speeds against the fan speed (not by air mass) I live at a high altitude, and quickly discovered that everything was set to sea level operation I had to back off on the max fuel pump speeds against the maximum fan speed to find a happy medium; namely, it wasn't belching smoke, and the exhaust didn't reek of diesel fuel these heaters don't shut off when the setpoint temp is reached, merely slow down to the lowest settings. so I set the minimum airflow rate to minimum, as well as the minimum pump speed, producing the least amount of heat
I was told in another video that theyre set in factory but theyre just set to run and work but theyre actually running rich. To set it up properly the way to do it is to set it to run on full power, then reduce the fuel pump so that it goes down to the 2nd to last bar, leave it a minute then turn it up so that the last bar only just comes on. Then it will run slightly leaner and use less diesel and run cleaner. Youre then supposed to run it on the minimum setting and adjust the minimum pump speed in the same way.
If it gets to dirty and the flame keeps going out or not igniting turn max rmap down to 3500. It allows it to stay light and then after it's warmed up turn it back up to 4500rpm.
Great video I have the same controller. Any ideas when I select the 2nd hz setting that should be my maximum pulse rate this setting actually alters the pump speed. Not the first hz setting the second one speeds up and slows down the pump
Not too sure what's happening there Andy..? From various other replies that I've had, these controllers sometimes seem to have a mind of their own..!!!! Sorry I can't be more helpful..
Interesting... I recently stripped this heater down after 1500hrs running time and was very pleased by the lack of sooting up. I run on default settings and temperature of 22degsC. However, I also use a diesel fuel additive and I'm convinced that is the reason it managed to keep so clean.....👍
Try holding the OK and power button. That's what I need to do. Or some other combination should get you there. Mine needs a 3 digit pin though and I can't figure it out 😅
What I'm realising is most people don't understand the temperature setting. The controllable temp is what you are setting the fuel temp to be (it won't go higher than what you have set) the non controllable temp is the temperature of the heat exchange fins and therefore basically the temperature the air is getting blown out into the room. It's not the temperature of actual the room.
@@lucianodibiase1265 Hi, I've changed my mind on that. I think the temp on the controller is supposed to be the temperature of the room. I am using it on a drafty boat with not great insulation so that is effecting it.
When the unit is overall set to 'Set the Temperature' - i.e. the up & down arrows allow you to set your desired temperature - this is meant to be setting the desired *room* temperature, & it reads this temperature from the LCD control itself - so, like in a house, for this use-case the controller needs to be placed in the room, not right next to the heater. This is part of why the controller cable is so long - it's expected to be far from the heater. In this 'Set the Temperature' mode - the heater will power up to full power, & when it detects that the room has reached the set temperature - it will go to Low power, & sit there until the thermostat reports that the room is cold again. In this mode, you are only ever able to set the target temperature, never fuelling or anything - all that is out of your control, controlled automatically by the heater. However - when the overall setting is 'Pump speed' - the up & down arrows control the pump speed (fuelling - in Hertz, pumps-per-second). This is precisely the same as controlling the heat *output* of the unit - & now the room temp/thermostat has *no* role to play. It's basically full-manual heat control. What is still 'automatic' in this mode though, is the fan speed. It will provide a fan speed suitable for the heat (Hertz) setting you've set - this will be a fixed relationship always - e.g. 3.0Hz will always be provided X speed of fan RPM. Some people don't like the way it manages temperature-based settings - i.e. Full power or Low - nothing in between - but this is inevitably a deliberate manufacturing decision, to maximise reliability (soot-free).
Clearly not many understand how the machines were set up and why settings may need to be changed. IT IS ALL ABOUT BURNING EFFICIENTLY. The combustion air is important in relation to the fuel delivered. Maximum efficiency is when only a tiny amount of carbon monoxide is produced in the exhaust gas, meaning the minimum combustion air is being delivered to completely burn the fuel. Double the fuel requires double the combustion air and this should be how the controller works. Too much fuel for the combustion air will cause coking; to much air means the flame temperature is reduced by excessive dilution air, meaning more of the fuel heat energy heat is expelled via the exhaust. At the optimum fuel:air ratio, the heat exchanger will work at its maximum temperature. This maximum air temperature is regulated by the hot air fan and should not give rise to a high temperature trip. However, if the hot air fan is unable to remove sufficient heat from the heat exchanger (maybe the fan is restricted, or the delivery ducting is/are restricted (too long?), so the fan speed may need to be raised for a given fuel setting. This, of course increases the combustion air - thereby reducing the machine efficiency. Also, if the combustion air is restricted in any way (both by the combustion air and/or exhaust pipe length/diameter/number of bends), the fan speed will need to be adjusted - which in turn would decrease the temperature of the hot air delivered (with an increase in fan speed/current for an amount of delivered heat). The machines have specifications for pipes (diameter/length/number of degrees of bend) where the machine is going to, or should, operate satisfactorily - but not necessarily optimally. Clearly at different altitudes the air density will be less so a larger volume of combustion air will be required for an efficient burn (there is still just as much oxygen in the air - about 21% - but there is less air in any given volume). The machines are likely set up for operation between sea level and about 500 feet (150m) altitude, although that upper level may not be correct. Now back to “IT’S ALL ABOUT BURNING EFFICIENTLY”. Simple enough? Get a carbon monoxide meter for setting it up or err on the lean running side to avoid coking, but your choice of course.
@@oliver90owner Fantastic information! I had already drawn a theory that in order to definitely prevent soot, combustion airflow had to be on the higher side (erring on that side). However - I didn't know what the downside was to that (until your post). Loss of efficiency. I'm happy (in my use-case) to let efficiency take a slight hit, in order to prevent soot.
The heater has a mind of it's own, even though I have turned it off it just randomly starts up for either a long period of time or short, any help would be appreciated.
Hello I have the blue type controller, mines gos up to 5.5 hertz which I find isn't hot enough are you saying you can increase the hertz to 8 hertz, is the higher the hertz the hotter the air. Thanks
Hi Martin, Higher hertz = faster pump rate = more fuel into the burner. This, in turn, should give hotter air. Normally 5.5Hz is plenty hot enough though..!!
Thanks. Starting to really like your videos as I find you provide information i am looking for for example how low on hz and rom this goes down. Cheers
dont know if I am doing something wrong here.... following your video I set the temp to max (35C) fan speed to max (5000RPM) and tinkered with the pump rate....and I found that dropping the pump merely drops the fan speed which is kinda what I would have expected it to do.....
oh i can maby turn the hz down so it doesnt cook me on low i usually have my window open otherwise it gets far too hot, i accidently put it into mountain mode before i think that made it a lower hz so it seems cooler i was trying to find info on the mountain mode, i went to hold the up and down button to cycle the pump but i accidently held the ok and settings buttons down for a couple of seconds before i realised the pump wasnt cycle so i looked at the pad and had a mountain symbol showing at the top, im thinking it will run at a leaner burn for altitude or something so its running cooler now it seems it might save me some money on fuel and save me from cooking myself overnight, if not i can look into the hz settings, thanks
ar very high altitude like rocky mountains changing the pulse rate and fan speed is important because then there is less oxygen in the air if you run it at factory settings it will not burn clean and soot up inside and stop working. I do not remember the settings but these Chinese heaters will not work well at very high altitudes without these settings adjusted properly
my fan keep coming on and i think it may be something to do with my solar panel showing 13.4v (shows on heater lcd too 13.4v) could this be causing my fan to turn on although no errors show? or could it just be my temp sensor? cheers for the passcode, needed that.
Hi Greg, Yes Ive that a lot. Mine is slightly fading now as well. I dont know of any brightness setting either? Fortunately a new replacement is every cheap and easy to fit..! ATB, Steve
Great instruction video. I followed directions to increase fan speed, but the increased setting was only momentary. How can I keep the fan speed at an increased speed?
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks Steve. I did do that and it finally responded after multiple attempts. I have found that sometimes the buttons don't always respond the first time they are pushed. I haven't refired the unit since, so I don't know if it has retained the new info. Thanks again.
I read somewhere on one of eBay adverts you can use this just as a cool air blower , so just blower without the heater kicking in . Have you worked this out ?
How do you get the voltage input to stay? I replaced my display and the default is 24. I changed this and it runs fine. When power is reapplied, it defaults back to 24. I have to change it every time power is removed.
Yours looks the same as mine the Ariel symbol is that for Bluetooth app ? I have been trying to pair it with the parking electric app, with no joy have you tried this I am not sure which button is the reset button
SN 1 or 2. my heater fan has 2 magnets, but just testing now, and it will not even light up if set to 2, ((Tried pf6 as well, still will not fire up).but setting back to SN 1 again, its away again now just fine. Wondering if sn means signal count number/multiplier, ie count each signal once or twice(1 magnet = count it twice). Any others able to test and report back? i will try second system as well now.
Any idea what's wrong with mine had a few months now been working fine until today went out to find it running .wont torn of won't fire up although all lights show its heated up can't turn it off unless I disconnect from battery .....left a while in case it needs resetting but as soon as I connect to battery the fan runs but nothing else , I can flip between screens but can't get it to fire up..am I doing something wrong as it bends working fine until today 25 jan 2021
Steve, I can't get my Jackery 1000 to stay on more than about 5 seconds before it cuts off on start up. You say heater pulls around 12 amps on start up, and the Jackery kicks out at 10 amps. Can I lower the fan speed on startup until the glo plug turns off? How do I do that? I don't understand this problem, as I have seen several videos of these heaters on a Jackery 500. Help!
Hi Thomas, Seems a lot of people get problems running these heaters from a power pack...? When the heater starts up there's quite a surge and I think it causes them to cut out due to over sensitive.? I have never really experimented with them so not all that knowledgeable I'm afraid... ATB, Steve
im seeing the same issue on multiple packs as well. My current plan was to purchase a 12v, 15 amp power block from amazon to run from the 110v output of the battery packs in order to give it the extra buffer during start up and shut down. Its not delivering until later today so I can't say for sure it will solve the issue but I dont' see why it wouldn't. Only downside is an added piece of the puzzle as well, I'm sure, reduced efficiency for how much battery life you'll get out of the pack. I don't think changing any of the settings will impact this behavior.
Old comment, but find the PF setting in the password protected area, default is 5. Set this to 3 or so and see if it still starts. This is the Glowplug power. The fan isn't the issue, it's the plug. Go as low as you can while still getting a reliable startup. You may have more sooting though as the plug runs for shutdowns too.
I dunno, this setting doesn't appear in either the manual or the video but it does appear on my controller my best bet is to play with it (starting from the extreme end, 1) and see how it behaves
@@davidconner-shover51 @Patryk Całus PF is the glow plug wattage: 35w through to 90w i think. I think most 5kw are set to 5 or 6. I'll be doing a vid on this on my channel soon.
SN1 or 2 part 2 -have now Tried second system, same results, will not fire up at all if set to 2, despite having 2 magnets. fails to start and eventually flashes "on" and pump stops and glow stays on. Reset to 1 while at this stage, and she fired up fine again when glow finished timing, and pump restarted. So seems to me as they run at higher rpm on wrong setting, blowing the flame out(not even first bar of graph comes on when failing on sn2, yet comes on almost as soon as pump starts when on correct sn1 for 2 magnets, on both my systems.(have both systems in same area, off the same fuel tank and battery/solar charger, so was easy to test one while leaving other one running unaltered).
Hello there. With the diesel storage tank be inside of the living space is there any smell of diesel. ? Just wondering if the pump is sucking the diesel from the tank then air has to be entering the tank to prevent suction happening. Cheers Graham
Hi Graham, There is no smell whatsoever. The fill cap has a one way valve on it, allowing air in, but preventing any smells from getting out. This also prevents a vacuum form in the tank as the level decreases, Works well. ATB, Steve
Hi Rick, I believe that this is a setting to accommodate higher altitude in the advanced menu. However, I've had no dealings with it as never needed it... Essentially it involves altering the fuel/air ratios to compensate, but just how, I'm afraid I don't know. ATB, Steve
Hi my controller won't drive my heater anymore..if I good on button down for three seconds..it doesn't come on..then sometimes it come on..but then turns off completely..any suggestions.please.?
Definitely wire in a switch to avoid unnecessary drain on the battery, unless you need to use the automatic timer on feature. I measured 83mA drain, which would be okay only if you drive it regularly.
Hi David, PF in the secret menu gives you adjustment of what wattage that you want to supply the glow plug. 1 being the lowest to 6 the highest. Default is 5 (I think) Essentially it will warm up longer or shorter depending on what you set it. Not really worth fiddling with though....
Hi sorry to bother you again I am still having trouble setting the out board fuel tank to my diesel heater, is there any wording on your Yamaha pipes or quick release catch so I can try and order what you have? If it does not work even if I get the same as you I will just have to look at another way. I know you told me they came with your tank but there must be a size or some clue on them, I am using a 1/4 of the tank that came with heater and it leaks badly if I set it up like it’s supposed to lol thanks . Ray K YNWA.
Hi Ray, These are the quick connector and fuel line links. www.bottomlinemarine.com/prod_cat/P_attwood-fuel-quick-connect-for-omc--johnson--evinrude-hose-fitting---8889lp6_3723.shtml www.bottomlinemarine.com/prod_cat/P_marine-fuel-hose--14-6mm--outboard--mercruiser--diesel--petrol--lloyds_7499.shtml But call them to confirm. They are very helpful. Good luck, hope this helps. ATB, Steve
Hi Dan, When you first run from new you get some odd smells but they burn off and go quite quickly. Assuming it is installed correctly these heater will run very efficiently and cleanly producing no noticeable smells. If I were you, I would take the outer top case off and have a look around the heat exchanger casing incase a wire or something has come adrift during transit and is touch the hot metal. Also check if there's any noise coming from the inlet fan, as this may be rubbing against the plastic body causing a smell. Does the smell get worse when on full power, how long does it last and what sort of smell is it? ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads thanks for your reply, I have run it for long enough now to burn off any smell. The smell comes when the heater is on full bringing up the temp, then goes when it reduces to maintain heat. It's as if it's getting to hot. Yesterday after watching your vid i reduced the max pulse rate to 4hz and it seems to have solved the issue.
Hi Dan, The maximum pulse rate seems to be set the same for all the different kw sized burners by default, so it could well of been that may well be causing the smell?? Glad it's sorted now. ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads by no noticeable smells, do you mean from the combustion exhaust or the interior heated air? Start up and shut down usually has a lot of odors from incomplete combustion.
Trying to set my controller up, the time does not come up, my main screen says P12v, I need to prime but when I press the OK and down I get something different to h OF. any ideas? I've tried resetting by taking fuse out and re powering up.
Sorry for late reply.. That's a new on me? All of these controllers are pretty much the same and so is the setup. It's possible you may just have a duff controller? There cheap of Ebay so I would say try that first. Sorry I couldn't be more specific... ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks for your help, I'm ordering another complete unit, cold weather is coming and I intend to live in my van so it's gotta be 100% 😁
I wonder why, on shutdown, the thing pulses the pump periodically instead of simply shutting off the pump right away, and just leaving the fan running to cool down everything. When it does those individual pulses, it just creates stink because it's no able to burn cleaning as it's already cooling down. Is there any good reason for them doing this? I'm inclined to just unplug the fuel pump on shutdown to avoid the smell.
@@TheWrinklyNomads yea i figured it out the other controller you could turn up 12345 think it was the older ones when turning up is in hz i thought you could alter it so as it was the same as the other controler but you cant its working spot on now
Just installing my heater. I set the time and then checked the current temperature and then pressed to set the target temperature and it came up "P-40" What does this mean? I have not run the prime fuel yet - could this be the reason why??
Hi Paul, Never seen that one before? Are you sure its not P-4.0 That would make more sense as it means the pulse rate is set at 4.0 hz.. If you press up/down it alter accordingly. ATB, Steve
That seems to be any number of faults, generally centred around fuel / air. Ensure exhaust has a continuous downward slope so any water entering goes straight out. Did you put the filter on the air intake? This can restrict air flow in - especially if it's outside & the filter gets wet! It could also be the glow plug has had it!
Hi, To the best of my knowledge an E-10 code related to an ignition fail. Generally caused by fuel flow problems: clogged filter, pump failure, air filter blockage etc. For that type of fault it will be trail and error, checking one bit at a time. ATB, Steve
When my heater is running and the temp is set. the fan speed is very low, So low that it's not heating well. because the fan is blowing too slow. can I increase the fan speed without increasing diesel and having to increase the temperature ..if that makes sense? thank you
Hi Phillip, The air temperature has been reached therefore the hot air out will be at a minimum, as both fan and fuel are reduced. To increase fan speed only, would require changes in the advanced menu settings, and that will alter the air/fuel mixture giving a poor burn. Think I would just tweak the temperature up on the controller if you want the fan to run more and give you more heat.. ATB, Steve
Mine is quite dull as well, There appears to be no setting to improve this either. I have heard of the display unfortunately needing to be changed because of this as well. ATB, Steve
The one I got is quite bright, which may be why it draws 83 mA while off and not doing anything. It's an unnecessary drain on the battery so I'd need to unplug it when it's not in use. I thought the display would turn off completely when the unit was off, but it's on whenever it has power applied.
@@strikemaster1 was yours bright to start with and then got dim over time? Is so, I'll be there after I get some more hours on it. Mine is still an infant- ;)
Hi Rob You can set the pump rate to lowest be using the Hz setting on the controller. This will give minimum fuel / air delivery to the burner and less fuel use. Once the burner has gone though it’s startup cycle it will then throttle down to a tick over. I have a video on changing degC to Hz here: How To Change Pulse Rate P Setting To Temperature In Degrees on Chinese Diesel Heater LED Controller th-cam.com/video/H1AxurF8KiA/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps Steve
Unfortunately the brightness is an issue with these controllers... They tend to dim over time as well and they seems to be no way to make them brighter....
Hi . I have a problem with the timer. Everything else is perfect. When you set the time ON, there is no time OFF function . it just goes straight to time No2 . very frustrating . Please can you help Clint.
Not too sure what's happening there..? From various other replies that I've had, these controllers sometimes seem to have a mind of their own..!!!! Sorry I can't be more helpful..
Hi Clifford, You can't get the screen any brighter...!! This seems to be a popular question about these controllers and there doesn't appear to be any answer. Sorry. ATB, Steve
one thing I've noticed is that I can't view it dead on like every other LCD display. I can only see it when viewed at an angle, say 45 degrees or more off axis seems to be a design flaw in the LCD display
It can, with two settable time schedules. You have to set the clock, and then set up the turn on time, and also a turn off time. Once the clock hits the programmed times, it'll turn on or off as programmed.
Hi Colin. On my controller it’s quite easy to do, some are different, but I think this is the universal way: If you press OK & down, then display shows H off. Press up and pump will start to pump fuel. Press down and pump will stop Hope this helps. ATB, Steve
Disconnect the line connecting to the fuel inlet if you can, and hold it straight up as you do the priming, that allows the air to get purged much quicker and without injecting fuel into the unit during the process. Once you see the fuel line is full, you can reconnect and finish up the bleeding process for the remaining bit of air.
i installed a 2 kw version in my camper. on the controller i do not see the red arrow indicating the exhaust fumes are going out. it also does not reach two red bars indicating full power. exhaust fumes are ok, smells bad. heating is ok inside, does not flame out. does anyone have an idea? thanks
Sounds like a installation problem to me. Is anything blocked? Especially the exhaust pipe, or too sharp an exhaust bend causing back pressure? They normally run pretty sweet straight out of the box. Not reaching full temperature is normally a fuel/air issue.
Our heater has 2 modes, Temperature control or heat control. The instructions say in the heat control mode the fuel pump pulses. I assume that is what ours is set on because the pump continually clicks quite loudly. How do we change it to the heat control mode?
Hi dawn, Unfortunately the pump will tick regardless of controller setting. They all do. I have a video where I get mine quieter here th-cam.com/video/jLbKgVcc_Ms/w-d-xo.html Hope it helps. ATB, Steve
Yes, the higher the Hertz the more fuel & fan speed. It gives a hotter air temperature. Also, higher hertz = higher fuel consumption. I tend to run mind in 3.5Hz and fid that the best for me as it it also nice n quiet..! ATB, Steve
Has anyone got the wiring diagram for this controller or a link to it, I need to know what the blue, red and black wire control ? As Iam trying to retro fit this controller to a Webasto Airtop 2000
also I lower the HZ to 0.8, but when exit the menu I can not go down than 1.6 to 0.8 then I return to hidden menu, my settings stays stored at 0.8 what to do ? I'm cooked on lower possible HZ
Hi John, To be honest, I have never found the need to drop below the 2.2Hz. Never experimented with altering any settings in the 'secret' menu either. 0.8hz is a very small amount of fuel I wonder how much outlet heat that would produce.? Good luck on your experiments. ATB, Steve
Thanks for this Steve,
My heater, after a years use I might add, went nuts. The pump just wouldn't slow down. Purchased a new motherboard and heat sensor, installed them and no difference, pull it apart and cleaned everything, took out the glow plug and blasted light oil from spray can through the mesh around the glow plug. All back together and,, no difference, the pump was hammering away causing dark grey smoke.
There's no information anywhere on slowing your pump down, the basic settings are un-useable really.
Getting into the advanced settings is a revelation! Cheers for the pin code! I set the pulse to .8 and the fan 1500 - 5000 and she's behaving herself again! She belts out the heat until the temps up and then goes whisper quiet with the pump ticking over at a slow heartbeat, every now and then she speeds up to clear the excess fuel and slows right back down again.
Thank You Thank You!
Hi Derek
Yes, playing around with those setting can really fine tune these units if you are getting problems.
I'm glad it helped you.
ATB, Steve
thanks a lot, a Chinese friend of mine gave me a different heater with the numeric displays (not the graphical one)
She translated what was engraved on the displays unit so I could understand what was written on it and what the little computer was telling me.
Parts where missing or worn out, I bought them : a new heat plug (it was dead)
a new pump (it was missing) and a bunch of new stainless meshes (it cant be bad) it was so cheep and came fast!
your code 1688 worked perfectly and I was able to adapt the frequency to the new pump that was giving too much for this little unit.
now I have a heater to use on my sailing boat even "unplugged" at sea
thanks very much again
Hi Alex,
Yes, the instruction are something to drive you mad eh..!
Glad you got there in the end....
ATB, Steve
I have one of these heaters... The "OF", while I don't know what it means, is not related to the burner. it is, in fact, a menu that allows that lets you change the factory PIN. The factory pin is in fact 1688 and I used this menu to change it to 6666, just to make it easier to get into the advanced settings. The rest of your descriptions for the settings are spot on.
Hi after I push’off’ now I can’t go to meniu, how can I change the password? Please can you tell me? 🤔
Did you resolve this as I've done the same!@@misu377
Thank you sooo much for making this video!!! Almost gave up on changing the fan speed and only keeping the pump on the lowest setting to stop it from overheating.
The SN setting 1 or 2 just after the voltage setting is about the number of magnets in the fanwheel.
Just open up the heater and look between te controllerboard and the fan while rotate the fan with your hand and count the little metal round objects in the fan.
If you count only one, then set SN to 1 and if you count two, obvoiously set SN to 2.
This has to do with an acurate measuring of the fan speed.
Thank you Rhonda.
Very helpful 👍
You are welcome
@@TheWrinklyNomads
Mine was running far too hot, so thanks to you, i can now run it on 0.8hz
Did it work to cool it down? Just installed mine and at lowest factory setting its cooking me.
It is possible to make the fuel pump tick over slower. How? I believe, its long time ago, you can somehow lower the minimum ticks per minute as the lowest value that it will run with. Mine was cooking me too. I think the 3 and 5 kw units are the same with just another minimum treshold..
@@douwe4549 you can if you purchase the quiet diesel pump there is a nob on the top there not cheap but a quality product he makes them him self well worth a look on utube
After playing with the setting I figured out you can set the rpm to 3500 for night time use about 2.5-2.7 pulse and the 1500rom idle at about 1.0-1.2 pulse at night in thermostat mode while sleeping
Can you explain this more? I’m keen to set it up at a lower output as I’m melting in my van :)
@@MorfMusic you need to match the pulse to the rpm to an extent, I found 1.4 at idle keeps both hot bars on 1.2 keeps one bar on and igniter stays off ( never had it turn back on but that would mean not enough fuel) you can adjust the max rpm to 3500 on auto and find the pulse that keeps the fire correct. If you leave the pulse at 5.0 it will flood the low rpm chamber and create smoke and stink
Thank’s for the video. Thank’s to everyone for good tips in comments too. Going to adjusting for lower diesel consumption. ❤
Glad it helped 👍
Thanks for a great guide. Especially the info on the 16688 entry into factory settings. My unit was smelling like hot plastic and it would often cut out after 10 min with [E-05] (Overheating). I logged into the factory settings and adjusted the minimum fan speed to 1900 RPM which solved both problems. More air = cooler temperature of the heater but the heat is still distributed into the room.
Great info, I have written it down for my future hiccups:)
When I first set my unit up, it kept faulting with a E-006 code. It had never ran.
This is suppose to be a misaligned magnet setting on the blower
I reset the magnet pick up but every time I reset the power, it would fault out again.
I moved it in a step at a time & out a step at a time. Powering off the unit after each adjustment.
I read did in a post that if you held both arrow buttons in while reapplying the voltage it would clear the fault memory buffer. That fix it!
Now the only thing I can't figure out is the first screen after power up.
I has a message of message
I've not heard of the problem before Kelly..?
So can't help with a fix I afraid.
Good tip on resetting the unit though. Thank you and good luck 👍
Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads The odd thing is, If I let the unit sit overnight - Power Off, it will start the next day. I've given up on the injector pump, I have a new one coming in today. Will let you know how it goes
I have seen in comments on other videos the SN1 and SN2 changing to SN2 if you have an error 05 can sometimes fix it if there is no physical obstruction to airflow
when I first started mine, it belched smoke, fuel/air mixture settings are set by the max/min pump speeds against the fan speed (not by air mass)
I live at a high altitude, and quickly discovered that everything was set to sea level operation
I had to back off on the max fuel pump speeds against the maximum fan speed to find a happy medium; namely, it wasn't belching smoke, and the exhaust didn't reek of diesel fuel
these heaters don't shut off when the setpoint temp is reached, merely slow down to the lowest settings. so I set the minimum airflow rate to minimum, as well as the minimum pump speed, producing the least amount of heat
Thank you! I set my pump to minimum hertz to 0.8 and wanted to save the settings but didnt work out. How to save the edited settings?
I was told in another video that theyre set in factory but theyre just set to run and work but theyre actually running rich. To set it up properly the way to do it is to set it to run on full power, then reduce the fuel pump so that it goes down to the 2nd to last bar, leave it a minute then turn it up so that the last bar only just comes on. Then it will run slightly leaner and use less diesel and run cleaner. Youre then supposed to run it on the minimum setting and adjust the minimum pump speed in the same way.
Interesting information Neil, thank you.👍
If it gets to dirty and the flame keeps going out or not igniting turn max rmap down to 3500. It allows it to stay light and then after it's warmed up turn it back up to 4500rpm.
Interesting... thank you
Perfect thanks for the details. All set now and looking (feeling) good. I love it when a plan comes together lol.
Great video I have the same controller. Any ideas when I select the 2nd hz setting that should be my maximum pulse rate this setting actually alters the pump speed. Not the first hz setting the second one speeds up and slows down the pump
Not too sure what's happening there Andy..?
From various other replies that I've had, these controllers sometimes seem to have a mind of their own..!!!!
Sorry I can't be more helpful..
I run the low rpm at 1550 at 1.4Hz to prevent soot build up.
Interesting...
I recently stripped this heater down after 1500hrs running time and was very pleased by the lack of sooting up.
I run on default settings and temperature of 22degsC.
However, I also use a diesel fuel additive and I'm convinced that is the reason it managed to keep so clean.....👍
@@TheWrinklyNomads yes, I run it on 20% hvo. Normal road diesel with FAME was a disaster!
How do i put it back to factory settings
Hi I have the same controller but can not get into advance settings at all any ideas if there is another way
Try holding the OK and power button. That's what I need to do. Or some other combination should get you there. Mine needs a 3 digit pin though and I can't figure it out 😅
@@sammywn3622 ah I will try . I seen videos with the three digit pin on here somewhere giving the pin etc. I can't get to that stage
Note the secret menu is accessed when the heater is RUNning
Thank you mate ! For adjust the voltage . Great video
COntroller is 12/24v, the heater itself IS NOT! Correct voltage heater must be bought, they are NOT dual voltage.
What I'm realising is most people don't understand the temperature setting. The controllable temp is what you are setting the fuel temp to be (it won't go higher than what you have set) the non controllable temp is the temperature of the heat exchange fins and therefore basically the temperature the air is getting blown out into the room. It's not the temperature of actual the room.
I'm trying to understand what you mean, can you explain further?
@@lucianodibiase1265 Hi, I've changed my mind on that. I think the temp on the controller is supposed to be the temperature of the room. I am using it on a drafty boat with not great insulation so that is effecting it.
When the unit is overall set to 'Set the Temperature' - i.e. the up & down arrows allow you to set your desired temperature - this is meant to be setting the desired *room* temperature, & it reads this temperature from the LCD control itself - so, like in a house, for this use-case the controller needs to be placed in the room, not right next to the heater. This is part of why the controller cable is so long - it's expected to be far from the heater.
In this 'Set the Temperature' mode - the heater will power up to full power, & when it detects that the room has reached the set temperature - it will go to Low power, & sit there until the thermostat reports that the room is cold again. In this mode, you are only ever able to set the target temperature, never fuelling or anything - all that is out of your control, controlled automatically by the heater.
However - when the overall setting is 'Pump speed' - the up & down arrows control the pump speed (fuelling - in Hertz, pumps-per-second). This is precisely the same as controlling the heat *output* of the unit - & now the room temp/thermostat has *no* role to play. It's basically full-manual heat control. What is still 'automatic' in this mode though, is the fan speed. It will provide a fan speed suitable for the heat (Hertz) setting you've set - this will be a fixed relationship always - e.g. 3.0Hz will always be provided X speed of fan RPM.
Some people don't like the way it manages temperature-based settings - i.e. Full power or Low - nothing in between - but this is inevitably a deliberate manufacturing decision, to maximise reliability (soot-free).
Clearly not many understand how the machines were set up and why settings may need to be changed. IT IS ALL ABOUT BURNING EFFICIENTLY. The combustion air is important in relation to the fuel delivered. Maximum efficiency is when only a tiny amount of carbon monoxide is produced in the exhaust gas, meaning the minimum combustion air is being delivered to completely burn the fuel. Double the fuel requires double the combustion air and this should be how the controller works.
Too much fuel for the combustion air will cause coking; to much air means the flame temperature is reduced by excessive dilution air, meaning more of the fuel heat energy heat is expelled via the exhaust.
At the optimum fuel:air ratio, the heat exchanger will work at its maximum temperature. This maximum air temperature is regulated by the hot air fan and should not give rise to a high temperature trip.
However, if the hot air fan is unable to remove sufficient heat from the heat exchanger (maybe the fan is restricted, or the delivery ducting is/are restricted (too long?), so the fan speed may need to be raised for a given fuel setting. This, of course increases the combustion air - thereby reducing the machine efficiency.
Also, if the combustion air is restricted in any way (both by the combustion air and/or exhaust pipe length/diameter/number of bends), the fan speed will need to be adjusted - which in turn would decrease the temperature of the hot air delivered (with an increase in fan speed/current for an amount of delivered heat).
The machines have specifications for pipes (diameter/length/number of degrees of bend) where the machine is going to, or should, operate satisfactorily - but not necessarily optimally. Clearly at different altitudes the air density will be less so a larger volume of combustion air will be required for an efficient burn (there is still just as much oxygen in the air - about 21% - but there is less air in any given volume). The machines are likely set up for operation between sea level and about 500 feet (150m) altitude, although that upper level may not be correct.
Now back to “IT’S ALL ABOUT BURNING EFFICIENTLY”. Simple enough? Get a carbon monoxide meter for setting it up or err on the lean running side to avoid coking, but your choice of course.
@@oliver90owner Fantastic information! I had already drawn a theory that in order to definitely prevent soot, combustion airflow had to be on the higher side (erring on that side). However - I didn't know what the downside was to that (until your post). Loss of efficiency. I'm happy (in my use-case) to let efficiency take a slight hit, in order to prevent soot.
Do you know what the wifi aerial logo means ?
Thanks for this. Worked a treat fella.
Great job bud this helps me a lot.
Great video!! Do I need to change the factory settings to allow my heater to run solely off a leisure battery once it has warmed up?
The heater has a mind of it's own, even though I have turned it off it just randomly starts up for either a long period of time or short, any help would be appreciated.
Hello I have the blue type controller, mines gos up to 5.5 hertz which I find isn't hot enough are you saying you can increase the hertz to 8 hertz, is the higher the hertz the hotter the air. Thanks
Hi Martin,
Higher hertz = faster pump rate = more fuel into the burner.
This, in turn, should give hotter air.
Normally 5.5Hz is plenty hot enough though..!!
SN=1: If fan has 1 magnet attached to it, to give the RPM signal
SN=2: If fan has 2 magnets attached to it, to give the RPM signal
Hi Simone, are you sure it is the number of magnets or is it the polarity of the magnet which some else has said? Thanks John.
i believe "s n " is the South and North poles of the magnet. on the fan motor rpm pickup
YES it is. Most heaters come out south-north, south-north but the odd one gets out with the magnet installed south-north, north-south which is SN-2
I somehow changed it to Fahrenheit in this menu. No idea how but I'll survive lol thanks for the info, I couldn't figure the menu out
If you ever figure out how you changed it to F let me know - so sick of trying to remember the C conversion 🙄
Top left and bottom left together
Thanks. Starting to really like your videos as I find you provide information i am looking for for example how low on hz and rom this goes down. Cheers
Glad you like them Marius and thanks for watching👍
dont know if I am doing something wrong here....
following your video I set the temp to max (35C) fan speed to max (5000RPM) and tinkered with the pump rate....and I found that dropping the pump merely drops the fan speed which is kinda what I would have expected it to do.....
oh i can maby turn the hz down so it doesnt cook me on low i usually have my window open otherwise it gets far too hot, i accidently put it into mountain mode before i think that made it a lower hz so it seems cooler i was trying to find info on the mountain mode, i went to hold the up and down button to cycle the pump but i accidently held the ok and settings buttons down for a couple of seconds before i realised the pump wasnt cycle so i looked at the pad and had a mountain symbol showing at the top, im thinking it will run at a leaner burn for altitude or something so its running cooler now it seems it might save me some money on fuel and save me from cooking myself overnight, if not i can look into the hz settings, thanks
ar very high altitude like rocky mountains changing the pulse rate and fan speed is important because then there is less oxygen in the air if you run it at factory settings it will not burn clean and soot up inside and stop working. I do not remember the settings but these Chinese heaters will not work well at very high altitudes without these settings adjusted properly
this was super helpful, thanks for posting! i had been wondering why my battery icon was flashing!
my fan keep coming on and i think it may be something to do with my solar panel showing 13.4v (shows on heater lcd too 13.4v) could this be causing my fan to turn on although no errors show? or could it just be my temp sensor? cheers for the passcode, needed that.
Thanks Steve, useful videos
My heater works ok but the display doesn’t light up, can you advise me on this problem, is there a brightness setting or something like that
Hi Greg,
Yes Ive that a lot. Mine is slightly fading now as well.
I dont know of any brightness setting either?
Fortunately a new replacement is every cheap and easy to fit..!
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks Steve....looks like a new one is needed, this one didnt last long at all
Have set the hertz setting to low .8 but the heater wont go that low ,u can set it but it wont do it
same
Great instruction video. I followed directions to increase fan speed, but the increased setting was only momentary. How can I keep the fan speed at an increased speed?
Hi Rick,
After setting the speed you must confirm it, press the bottom left button to keep the this in the memory.
That should do it...
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks Steve. I did do that and it finally responded after multiple attempts. I have found that sometimes the buttons don't always respond the first time they are pushed. I haven't refired the unit since, so I don't know if it has retained the new info. Thanks again.
I read somewhere on one of eBay adverts you can use this just as a cool air blower , so just blower without the heater kicking in . Have you worked this out ?
I just bought one and it appears to just blow cool air..I havn't work out if I need to adjust RPMs etc to feel warmer air...
Without this video I’d have no idea how to change it from 24 to 12 as it arrived set on 24 and kept spitting out a E-01. Thank you!
How do you get the voltage input to stay? I replaced my display and the default is 24. I changed this and it runs fine. When power is reapplied, it defaults back to 24. I have to change it every time power is removed.
Different setings for different size units?
Hi, What do you recommend I shall do to overcome error 03?
Error 03 is an ignition fault.
Might be a broken plug or short circuit.
ATB, Steve
Hi my desiel heaters only allows me to change the fan speed not sure why I can't change anything else ?
Yours looks the same as mine the Ariel symbol is that for Bluetooth app ? I have been trying to pair it with the parking electric app, with no joy have you tried this I am not sure which button is the reset button
Hi
There's no bluetooth mode on these type of controllers.
I think that symbol you refer to is for the pairing when adding the remote control..?
great video mate, cheers
SN 1 or 2. my heater fan has 2 magnets, but just testing now, and it will not even light up if set to 2, ((Tried pf6 as well, still will not fire up).but setting back to SN 1 again, its away again now just fine. Wondering if sn means signal count number/multiplier, ie count each signal once or twice(1 magnet = count it twice). Any others able to test and report back? i will try second system as well now.
Any idea what's wrong with mine had a few months now been working fine until today went out to find it running .wont torn of won't fire up although all lights show its heated up can't turn it off unless I disconnect from battery .....left a while in case it needs resetting but as soon as I connect to battery the fan runs but nothing else , I can flip between screens but can't get it to fire up..am I doing something wrong as it bends working fine until today 25 jan 2021
Steve, I can't get my Jackery 1000 to stay on more than about 5 seconds before it cuts off on start up. You say heater pulls around 12 amps on start up, and the Jackery kicks out at 10 amps. Can I lower the fan speed on startup until the glo plug turns off? How do I do that? I don't understand this problem, as I have seen several videos of these heaters on a Jackery 500. Help!
Hi Thomas,
Seems a lot of people get problems running these heaters from a power pack...?
When the heater starts up there's quite a surge and I think it causes them to cut out due to over sensitive.?
I have never really experimented with them so not all that knowledgeable I'm afraid...
ATB, Steve
im seeing the same issue on multiple packs as well. My current plan was to purchase a 12v, 15 amp power block from amazon to run from the 110v output of the battery packs in order to give it the extra buffer during start up and shut down. Its not delivering until later today so I can't say for sure it will solve the issue but I dont' see why it wouldn't. Only downside is an added piece of the puzzle as well, I'm sure, reduced efficiency for how much battery life you'll get out of the pack.
I don't think changing any of the settings will impact this behavior.
my heater start up about 200W MAX ，do you find how to start heater normaly
Old comment, but find the PF setting in the password protected area, default is 5. Set this to 3 or so and see if it still starts. This is the Glowplug power. The fan isn't the issue, it's the plug. Go as low as you can while still getting a reliable startup. You may have more sooting though as the plug runs for shutdowns too.
My heater has a "PF" advanced settiing with range 1-6. Anyone figure out what it is ?
Same here. Somebody something ? :)
I dunno, this setting doesn't appear in either the manual or the video
but it does appear on my controller
my best bet is to play with it (starting from the extreme end, 1) and see how it behaves
@@davidconner-shover51 @Patryk Całus PF is the glow plug wattage: 35w through to 90w i think. I think most 5kw are set to 5 or 6. I'll be doing a vid on this on my channel soon.
SN1 or 2 part 2 -have now Tried second system, same results, will not fire up at all if set to 2, despite having 2 magnets. fails to start and eventually flashes "on" and pump stops and glow stays on. Reset to 1 while at this stage, and she fired up fine again when glow finished timing, and pump restarted.
So seems to me as they run at higher rpm on wrong setting, blowing the flame out(not even first bar of graph comes on when failing on sn2, yet comes on almost as soon as pump starts when on correct sn1 for 2 magnets, on both my systems.(have both systems in same area, off the same fuel tank and battery/solar charger, so was easy to test one while leaving other one running unaltered).
Tks for a Great video 🙏🏼💙. Do you have an user manual?
Don't think they have a manual for the advanced settings?
Just basic stuff in the instruction supplied.
@@TheWrinklyNomads tkss
Thank you very much.
You are welcome Dennis 👍
Hello there. With the diesel storage tank be inside of the living space is there any smell of diesel. ? Just wondering if the pump is sucking the diesel from the tank then air has to be entering the tank to prevent suction happening. Cheers Graham
Hi Graham,
There is no smell whatsoever.
The fill cap has a one way valve on it, allowing air in, but preventing any smells from getting out.
This also prevents a vacuum form in the tank as the level decreases,
Works well.
ATB, Steve
So helpful thank you
Any way to set presets if you travel to different altitudes often?
Hi Rick,
I believe that this is a setting to accommodate higher altitude in the advanced menu.
However, I've had no dealings with it as never needed it...
Essentially it involves altering the fuel/air ratios to compensate, but just how, I'm afraid I don't know.
ATB, Steve
Alpine mode - press n hold both left buttons till you see the coors lite mountains 😏
Hi my controller won't drive my heater anymore..if I good on button down for three seconds..it doesn't come on..then sometimes it come on..but then turns off completely..any suggestions.please.?
Hi Styu,
You should get an error code in the display when the ECU detects a fault with the unit.
This will tell you whats gone wrong.
Steve
Hello, or your controller display all the time is on? Because my one is on all the time and i dont know, or should be like that or no
Definitely wire in a switch to avoid unnecessary drain on the battery, unless you need to use the automatic timer on feature. I measured 83mA drain, which would be okay only if you drive it regularly.
Tried changing from flow to degree Celsius with up arrow and setting button?
Won’t work???
That's strange Mike??
If it's the same type of controller it should definitely work?
Afraid I'm not sure what's happening there....
ATB, Steve
I have one additional setting before it exits.... "PF" with a range of 1 to 6......what is that for and what should it be please
Hi David,
PF in the secret menu gives you adjustment of what wattage that you want to supply the glow plug.
1 being the lowest to 6 the highest. Default is 5 (I think)
Essentially it will warm up longer or shorter depending on what you set it.
Not really worth fiddling with though....
thank you
Hi sorry to bother you again I am still having trouble setting the out board fuel tank to my diesel heater, is there any wording on your Yamaha pipes or quick release catch so I can try and order what you have? If it does not work even if I get the same as you I will just have to look at another way. I know you told me they came with your tank but there must be a size or some clue on them, I am using a 1/4 of the tank that came with heater and it leaks badly if I set it up like it’s supposed to lol thanks . Ray K YNWA.
Hi Ray,
These are the quick connector and fuel line links.
www.bottomlinemarine.com/prod_cat/P_attwood-fuel-quick-connect-for-omc--johnson--evinrude-hose-fitting---8889lp6_3723.shtml
www.bottomlinemarine.com/prod_cat/P_marine-fuel-hose--14-6mm--outboard--mercruiser--diesel--petrol--lloyds_7499.shtml
But call them to confirm. They are very helpful.
Good luck, hope this helps.
ATB, Steve
I seem to have messed up the 1688 code..it wont let me in....managed to use 9009, is there any way of resetting ?
Hi David
I’m not to sure about resetting the code?
Don’t know if it even can be done?
Maybe worth asking on a diesel heater forum?
ATB, Steve
OK, thanks
My settings button doesn’t do anything apparently. Same looking controller with subtle display differences.
It should do?
That button is pretty universal across all the different controllers.
Maybe a dodgy unit??
Hello there, my heater gives off a funny smell when at its hottest, it's not exhaust, do I need to adjust the setting perhaps
Hi Dan,
When you first run from new you get some odd smells but they burn off and go quite quickly.
Assuming it is installed correctly these heater will run very efficiently and cleanly producing no noticeable smells.
If I were you, I would take the outer top case off and have a look around the heat exchanger casing incase a wire or something has come adrift during transit and is touch the hot metal.
Also check if there's any noise coming from the inlet fan, as this may be rubbing against the plastic body causing a smell.
Does the smell get worse when on full power, how long does it last and what sort of smell is it?
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads thanks for your reply, I have run it for long enough now to burn off any smell. The smell comes when the heater is on full bringing up the temp, then goes when it reduces to maintain heat. It's as if it's getting to hot. Yesterday after watching your vid i reduced the max pulse rate to 4hz and it seems to have solved the issue.
Hi Dan,
The maximum pulse rate seems to be set the same for all the different kw sized burners by default, so it could well of been that may well be causing the smell??
Glad it's sorted now.
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads by no noticeable smells, do you mean from the combustion exhaust or the interior heated air?
Start up and shut down usually has a lot of odors from incomplete combustion.
interesting video, thanks.
Trying to set my controller up, the time does not come up, my main screen says P12v, I need to prime but when I press the OK and down I get something different to h OF. any ideas? I've tried resetting by taking fuse out and re powering up.
Any help would be much appreciated, thank you.
Sorry for late reply..
That's a new on me?
All of these controllers are pretty much the same and so is the setup.
It's possible you may just have a duff controller?
There cheap of Ebay so I would say try that first.
Sorry I couldn't be more specific...
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks for your help, I'm ordering another complete unit, cold weather is coming and I intend to live in my van so it's gotta be 100% 😁
is same, press up button to start the priming process
I wonder why, on shutdown, the thing pulses the pump periodically instead of simply shutting off the pump right away, and just leaving the fan running to cool down everything. When it does those individual pulses, it just creates stink because it's no able to burn cleaning as it's already cooling down. Is there any good reason for them doing this?
I'm inclined to just unplug the fuel pump on shutdown to avoid the smell.
it needs to burn high right before shutdown to prevent soot buildup
Hi mate how do you turn the power setting up mate on this controller
Hi Duncan,
Sorry , not sure of our question....
What do you mean by 'power setting'?
@@TheWrinklyNomads yea i figured it out the other controller you could turn up 12345 think it was the older ones when turning up is in hz i thought you could alter it so as it was the same as the other controler but you cant its working spot on now
What about turning up the fane speed? If I turn up fan speed will I have to change the fuel amount?
Don't do this without a flue meter.
The bars and the y symbols..
What does the mean thank you
Thank you
You're welcome 👍
Just installing my heater. I set the time and then checked the current temperature and then pressed to set the target temperature and it came up "P-40" What does this mean? I have not run the prime fuel yet - could this be the reason why??
Hi Paul,
Never seen that one before?
Are you sure its not P-4.0 That would make more sense as it means the pulse rate is set at 4.0 hz..
If you press up/down it alter accordingly.
ATB,
Steve
HI. Great video thanks. Anyone figure out how to pair the remote? Cheers, George
Hi George
There are lots videos on TH-cam showing how to do that exact thing 👍
Long press top right while pressing off on the remote.
Can we do factory reset to this control panel?
My heater not working
What should I do to overcome error 10. Thank you .
That seems to be any number of faults, generally centred around fuel / air. Ensure exhaust has a continuous downward slope so any water entering goes straight out. Did you put the filter on the air intake? This can restrict air flow in - especially if it's outside & the filter gets wet! It could also be the glow plug has had it!
Hi,
To the best of my knowledge an E-10 code related to an ignition fail.
Generally caused by fuel flow problems: clogged filter, pump failure, air filter blockage etc.
For that type of fault it will be trail and error, checking one bit at a time.
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads thank you👍you are right. I fix the problem already.
helpful, thanks mate.
When my heater is running and the temp is set. the fan speed is very low, So low that it's not heating well. because the fan is blowing too slow. can I increase the fan speed without increasing diesel and having to increase the temperature ..if that makes sense? thank you
Hi Phillip,
The air temperature has been reached therefore the hot air out will be at a minimum, as both fan and fuel are reduced.
To increase fan speed only, would require changes in the advanced menu settings, and that will alter the air/fuel mixture giving a poor burn.
Think I would just tweak the temperature up on the controller if you want the fan to run more and give you more heat..
ATB, Steve
Also wondering how bright is your controller compared to mine that is near impossible to read its so dull. Did you spruce it up somehow?
Mine is quite dull as well,
There appears to be no setting to improve this either.
I have heard of the display unfortunately needing to be changed because of this as well.
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Thanks for both answers... very helpful for me. GBU
The one I got is quite bright, which may be why it draws 83 mA while off and not doing anything. It's an unnecessary drain on the battery so I'd need to unplug it when it's not in use. I thought the display would turn off completely when the unit was off, but it's on whenever it has power applied.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr Swap ya...:-)
@@strikemaster1 was yours bright to start with and then got dim over time? Is so, I'll be there after I get some more hours on it. Mine is still an infant- ;)
Many thanks for this, great help, I want to get the diesel amount to as low as possible, anyone know how???
Hi Rob
You can set the pump rate to lowest be using the Hz setting on the controller.
This will give minimum fuel / air delivery to the burner and less fuel use.
Once the burner has gone though it’s startup cycle it will then throttle down to a tick over.
I have a video on changing degC to Hz here:
How To Change Pulse Rate P Setting To Temperature In Degrees on Chinese Diesel Heater LED Controller
th-cam.com/video/H1AxurF8KiA/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps
Steve
Do you know how to control the LCD brightness???
Unfortunately the brightness is an issue with these controllers...
They tend to dim over time as well and they seems to be no way to make them brighter....
Hi . I have a problem with the timer. Everything else is perfect. When you set the time ON, there is no time OFF function . it just goes straight to time No2 . very frustrating . Please can you help
Clint.
If you set while heater is off it turns on with first timer second timer is how long. It ramps up full speed then lowers to last fan speed
Thank You!!!!!!!
I press settings button 3 times or a hundred times and it doesn't go into the settings. But I can change from 1-6 and Celsius. Thanks in advance
Not too sure what's happening there..?
From various other replies that I've had, these controllers sometimes seem to have a mind of their own..!!!!
Sorry I can't be more helpful..
hello, how do i turn on the ventilation mode? Only airing without hot can you?
Hey I’m also interested to know that answer :)
If you find out, kindly let me know :-)
Thanks in advance!
Someone said push cog+ok button and heater goes to night mode pump slower tried mine no luck???
Thanks
You welcome Stig 👍🏼
👍👍👍👍
Great vid. I have a question. How can I adjust the screen's brightness, if possible? Thx
Hi Clifford,
You can't get the screen any brighter...!!
This seems to be a popular question about these controllers and there doesn't appear to be any answer.
Sorry.
ATB, Steve
one thing I've noticed is that I can't view it dead on like every other LCD display. I can only see it when viewed at an angle, say 45 degrees or more off axis
seems to be a design flaw in the LCD display
Does this turn on by itself via the timer?
It can, with two settable time schedules. You have to set the clock, and then set up the turn on time, and also a turn off time. Once the clock hits the programmed times, it'll turn on or off as programmed.
Could you tell me how to prime the pump, ive lost my instruction manual
Hi Colin.
On my controller it’s quite easy to do, some are different, but I think this is the universal way:
If you press OK & down, then display shows H off.
Press up and pump will start to pump fuel.
Press down and pump will stop
Hope this helps.
ATB, Steve
Disconnect the line connecting to the fuel inlet if you can, and hold it straight up as you do the priming, that allows the air to get purged much quicker and without injecting fuel into the unit during the process. Once you see the fuel line is full, you can reconnect and finish up the bleeding process for the remaining bit of air.
i installed a 2 kw version in my camper. on the controller i do not see the red arrow indicating the exhaust fumes are going out. it also does not reach two red bars indicating full power. exhaust fumes are ok, smells bad. heating is ok inside, does not flame out. does anyone have an idea? thanks
Sounds like a installation problem to me.
Is anything blocked? Especially the exhaust pipe, or too sharp an exhaust bend causing back pressure?
They normally run pretty sweet straight out of the box.
Not reaching full temperature is normally a fuel/air issue.
How can I reset this controller?
disconnect the power supply and reconect it.
Our heater has 2 modes, Temperature control or heat control. The instructions say in the heat control mode the fuel pump pulses. I assume that is what ours is set on because the pump continually clicks quite loudly. How do we change it to the heat control mode?
Hi dawn,
Unfortunately the pump will tick regardless of controller setting.
They all do.
I have a video where I get mine quieter here
th-cam.com/video/jLbKgVcc_Ms/w-d-xo.html
Hope it helps.
ATB, Steve
@@TheWrinklyNomads Do you know how to switch to temperature control? I prefer to set desired temperature instead to set heat level
@@mriatravel you press the top two buttons at the same time and it will switch between hertz mode and Celsius mode
Cheers.
Hertz setting likely increases/decreases the temperature, as the burn of the heater is controlled by the input fuel rate.
Yes, the higher the Hertz the more fuel & fan speed.
It gives a hotter air temperature.
Also, higher hertz = higher fuel consumption.
I tend to run mind in 3.5Hz and fid that the best for me as it it also nice n quiet..!
ATB, Steve
When i put that button ive Got code 433 and Cant do nothing more. Whats goi g on . Help plz
Not certain about that code Marcin..?
Never seen it show 433 before..?
Sorry I can't be of more help...
Here is video if someone know whats going On help plz
Has anyone got the wiring diagram for this controller or a link to it, I need to know what the blue, red and black wire control ? As Iam trying to retro fit this controller to a Webasto Airtop 2000
It's a typical 5v reference like a car, Black is ground, red is 5 volts, and blue is signal.
also I lower the HZ to 0.8, but when exit the menu I can not go down than 1.6 to 0.8
then I return to hidden menu, my settings stays stored at 0.8
what to do ?
I'm cooked on lower possible HZ
Hi John,
To be honest, I have never found the need to drop below the 2.2Hz.
Never experimented with altering any settings in the 'secret' menu either.
0.8hz is a very small amount of fuel I wonder how much outlet heat that would produce.?
Good luck on your experiments.
ATB, Steve
Mine is the same, I get cooked until a bit later at night, my unit is outside so need to use Manuel
@@Brian-ausie I purchase afterburner from Australia, and perfect temp now