@@TargaWheels Interesting. Thinking back through the years I only probably had one or two go bad. Most of the time it was the ground to it that was an issue.
Good video! I built an engine run stand, broke in my 383 with a new alternator on it, but it wouldn’t charge. After break in we troubleshot everything and could ‘trick’ the alt to charge, but it wouldn’t on its own. Now I’m thinking the one thing we didn’t check is…
@@rong4189 It had me baffled man. Because you assume once it’s bolted in it’s gonna ground. One of those things you feel like there’s no way it can be that. I feel lucky I checked it. I’ve seen ground issues to the regulator before which is why I checked that but if I didn’t have the multi meter in my hand I doubt I woulda brought it out to check the alternator ground.
@@JonnyMopar yeah, I took it off the stand, I got to the point where I’m like “It’s gotta be my wiring on this run stand, I’ll just figure it out in the damn car!”
Fun fact it's called an alternator... Why.. Cause it produces A/C current... Ahh...you ask but it's a D/C system...good old rectified electric current....but still you can take a meter at A/C millvolts and read across you battery terminals and checkout A/C ripple to much and you know something is going wrong more than 50mvolts and it's time to dig in and find out why....and now you know..😂😂😂
Your battery does more than just provide electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. Not a good test to perform on any car.
👍👍👍
You know what's weird, I've never seen an external regulator fail. But I've had to replace alternators with an internal regulator more than once.
And you know the internal regulator for my Toyota cost more than a brand new alternator....so replacing the regulator is not an option..😂😂😂
@@TargaWheels Interesting. Thinking back through the years I only probably had one or two go bad. Most of the time it was the ground to it that was an issue.
That was a weird problem.
Good video! I built an engine run stand, broke in my 383 with a new alternator on it, but it wouldn’t charge. After break in we troubleshot everything and could ‘trick’ the alt to charge, but it wouldn’t on its own. Now I’m thinking the one thing we didn’t check is…
@@rong4189 It had me baffled man. Because you assume once it’s bolted in it’s gonna ground. One of those things you feel like there’s no way it can be that. I feel lucky I checked it. I’ve seen ground issues to the regulator before which is why I checked that but if I didn’t have the multi meter in my hand I doubt I woulda brought it out to check the alternator ground.
@@JonnyMopar yeah, I took it off the stand, I got to the point where I’m like “It’s gotta be my wiring on this run stand, I’ll just figure it out in the damn car!”
Looked like you had a revised square back...better alternator than the early round back stronger diode connections...
I was raised testing this way....But I agree it's not for newer cars
Awesome troubleshoot. I can say on my Sweptline I went through a few problems as well with Orileys parts. Glad yours was a bit more simple!
@@HighRevNation Thanks man. I appreciate that. I’ve gone through so many parts issues I can’t even count them all.
Did you try putting the old regulator back on? If it works would you return the new one or just keep both of them?
I haven’t yet but I will put the Mopar one back on.
Fun fact it's called an alternator... Why.. Cause it produces A/C current... Ahh...you ask but it's a D/C system...good old rectified electric current....but still you can take a meter at A/C millvolts and read across you battery terminals and checkout A/C ripple to much and you know something is going wrong more than 50mvolts and it's time to dig in and find out why....and now you know..😂😂😂
Mopar!
Your battery does more than just provide electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. Not a good test to perform on any car.