I understand all of what you are saying. But I've got one question. In the last diagram (with all the extra power loads ) You have a BLACK 8ga wire to amp gauge/ RED 8ga wire (8ga for extraloadof larger Alt ) . At the starter relay you have a fusible link size 12ga ( 4 sizes smaller to protect the larger wiring )... But what I'm unsure of is the loads coming off of the AMP gauge at splice 1. being that they are 12ga wire .... Since the fusible link is 12ga , and the loads at that spot are 12ga...should'nt the fusible link at the starter relay be of smaller size, to protect the wiring to the unfused loads that are running off the BLACK 8ga wire ????? Hey I'm just asking. You now more about this than I do.
Valid question, yes, as diagramed the stock dash harness 12 ga wiring is exposed to potentially more current in the event of a short in the unfused 12 ga wiring. I take extra steps to ensure shorts in that stock circuit wiring don’t take place. The higher output alternator and larger charge path wiring needs the 12ga fusible link. To address your concern, rather than suppling splice 1 from the alternator lead at the ammeter, you could supply spice 1 from the alternator feed in the engine compartment with its own 16ga fusible link. You don’t want fusible links in the passenger compartment, they generate some smoke when they blow, can blind a driver if the vehicle is in motion if/when a short event should occur.
Maybe you can give some advice. My 62 Plymouth only had fusible links for the mechanical VR. Since I am replacing the alternator and the regulator to the electronic VR, and a 78amp square back alternator. the wiring will be different. I would like to add some fusible links ( or what ever would be the better choice) to my 62 wiring harness . But I'm unsure of where I should put them in the harness , and what circuits to protect. Also if slow blow type fuses are a better choice... what type would you use, and what amp rating should I be using. I just want to add some protection to my wiring that was not built in the harness long ago in my 62, and would have been used in more modern wiring. Thanks
Haven’t seen a ’62 wiring diagram in many years, recall they were used differently than later years, not able to locate a factory wiring diagram online. I would review the by-pass video on my channel, covers the later factory use of a single fusible link. No additional fusible links should be required running the later charging system. The single fusible link protects the unfused wiring from shorts. Shouldn’t be replaced with any other type of circuit protection devices really, no need for them on any other circuits. Never install fusible links in the passenger compartment, they can generate a great deal of smoke when they open, can blind the driver if the vehicle is in motion.
I've got a 62 Plymouth Fury which had a 36-42amp alternator. I'm installing a chrysler square back 78amp alternator with an electronic VR. I would like to keep the stock ammeter and also add a voltmeter. Is the stock 62 ammeter safe to use with the higher output of the 78amp alternator ???
Assuming the ammeter connections are tight, insulators are in good shape, and the system is loaded correctly, the ammeter should be fine running a higher-than-stock output alternator. Some early B-bodies used a screw buses for the charge circuit bulkhead pass-through. If yours has Packard terminals, by-pass those.
If I understand the question, there is no technical reason that a 30 amps bi-directional ammeter can’t be replaced with the same type of bi-directional ammeter scaled for 50 amps. Not too familiar with the current Lucus offerings, however. Most aftermarket automotive ammeters are interchangeable electrically.
I have a 76 W100. I do not want to alter interfere or by-pass the original system, however I do want to add a voltage gauge. I also added a 4 wire tachometer, can I use the same ACC switched power (Lt Blue wire) and body ground for the voltage gauge?
Not following, the subject at hand is about system loading and the impact of loading this system incorrectly, not about the regulation of the alternator.
@@kennethburgeson6434 As I explained in the video at the end of the slide one presentation, the regulation of the alternator is not the subject of this video, that subsequent slides would not show the regulator and related field control circuits. The subject is only about the charge circuit/load paths and the impact of incorrectly loading the original Chrysler charging system. There is actually quite a bit of unrelated detail left out of those diagrams by design. I am working on another vid addressing a common over-voltage problem caused by voltage drop leading to an inaccurate reference voltage presented to the regulator by ignition 1. Regulation of the alternator will be covered.
Great video 😊😊 What If the ekstra power relays are connected directly on the alternator when ignition is off. Will the power run back through the app ?
If I understand the question correctly. The relays don’t draw power on their own. If the relays are activated with the key off (engine not running), or the alternator is in-op, the current for all loads is sourced from the battery, Yes, this current will flow through the ammeter under this condition and register as a discharge. This is why the need to upsize all of charge circuit wiring and by-pass the related bulkhead connectors. An original ammeter in good shape with good insulators/connections can handle a great deal of current for short periods of time.
Thanks :) :) @@72roadrunnergtxI´m planning relays for headlight low and high beam. Normally will I take the power from the battery. But the correctly way is to take the power from B+ on the alternator. On my setup, I had bypassed the amp meter and taped the wiring together back on the cluster.
For those of us new to working on old cars (Chrysler, specifically) the ammeter is the actual gauge in the cluster, correct? Thanks for the video. Some of us are visual learners, especially when not familiar with the terminology/vernacular.
Well done, thank you!
Agreed all loads Should be added To the back of the alternator. And not the battery.
I understand all of what you are saying. But I've got one question. In the last diagram (with all the extra power loads ) You have a BLACK 8ga wire to amp gauge/ RED 8ga wire (8ga for extraloadof larger Alt ) . At the starter relay you have a fusible link size 12ga ( 4 sizes smaller to protect the larger wiring )... But what I'm unsure of is the loads coming off of the AMP gauge at splice 1. being that they are 12ga wire .... Since the fusible link is 12ga , and the loads at that spot are 12ga...should'nt the fusible link at the starter relay be of smaller size, to protect the wiring to the unfused loads that are running off the BLACK 8ga wire ????? Hey I'm just asking. You now more about this than I do.
Valid question, yes, as diagramed the stock dash harness 12 ga wiring is exposed to potentially more current in the event of a short in the unfused 12 ga wiring. I take extra steps to ensure shorts in that stock circuit wiring don’t take place. The higher output alternator and larger charge path wiring needs the 12ga fusible link. To address your concern, rather than suppling splice 1 from the alternator lead at the ammeter, you could supply spice 1 from the alternator feed in the engine compartment with its own 16ga fusible link. You don’t want fusible links in the passenger compartment, they generate some smoke when they blow, can blind a driver if the vehicle is in motion if/when a short event should occur.
@@72roadrunnergtx good idea, thanks
Maybe you can give some advice. My 62 Plymouth only had fusible links for the mechanical VR. Since I am replacing the alternator and the regulator to the electronic VR, and a 78amp square back alternator. the wiring will be different. I would like to add some fusible links ( or what ever would be the better choice) to my 62 wiring harness . But I'm unsure of where I should put them in the harness , and what circuits to protect. Also if slow blow type fuses are a better choice... what type would you use, and what amp rating should I be using. I just want to add some protection to my wiring that was not built in the harness long ago in my 62, and would have been used in more modern wiring. Thanks
Haven’t seen a ’62 wiring diagram in many years, recall they were used differently than later years, not able to locate a factory wiring diagram online. I would review the by-pass video on my channel, covers the later factory use of a single fusible link. No additional fusible links should be required running the later charging system. The single fusible link protects the unfused wiring from shorts. Shouldn’t be replaced with any other type of circuit protection devices really, no need for them on any other circuits. Never install fusible links in the passenger compartment, they can generate a great deal of smoke when they open, can blind the driver if the vehicle is in motion.
thanks
I've got a 62 Plymouth Fury which had a 36-42amp alternator. I'm installing a chrysler square back 78amp alternator with an electronic VR. I would like to keep the stock ammeter and also add a voltmeter. Is the stock 62 ammeter safe to use with the higher output of the 78amp alternator ???
Assuming the ammeter connections are tight, insulators are in good shape, and the system is loaded correctly, the ammeter should be fine running a higher-than-stock output alternator. Some early B-bodies used a screw buses for the charge circuit bulkhead pass-through. If yours has Packard terminals, by-pass those.
@@72roadrunnergtx Yes my 62 has the screw buss bar connections at the bulkhead. Thank you for the reply. Your videos were very helpful.
Can you help I have a Lucas 30 0 30 amp gauge in my car it’s faulty but I can get a 50 0 50 can I use to replace my 30
If I understand the question, there is no technical reason that a 30 amps bi-directional ammeter can’t be replaced with the same type of bi-directional ammeter scaled for 50 amps. Not too familiar with the current Lucus offerings, however. Most aftermarket automotive ammeters are interchangeable electrically.
@@72roadrunnergtx thank you for your answer.
I have a 76 W100. I do not want to alter interfere or by-pass the original system, however I do want to add a voltage gauge. I also added a 4 wire tachometer, can I use the same ACC switched power (Lt Blue wire) and body ground for the voltage gauge?
Accessory or ignition 1 will work for a volt meter, will need to be grounded as well.
What about the field to the regulator and field to ignition one ?
Not following, the subject at hand is about system loading and the impact of loading this system incorrectly, not about the regulation of the alternator.
@@72roadrunnergtx just noticing on the two diagrams they were missing from the second one , was wondering what kind of wizardry was going down .
@@kennethburgeson6434 As I explained in the video at the end of the slide one presentation, the regulation of the alternator is not the subject of this video, that subsequent slides would not show the regulator and related field control circuits. The subject is only about the charge circuit/load paths and the impact of incorrectly loading the original Chrysler charging system. There is actually quite a bit of unrelated detail left out of those diagrams by design.
I am working on another vid addressing a common over-voltage problem caused by voltage drop leading to an inaccurate reference voltage presented to the regulator by ignition 1. Regulation of the alternator will be covered.
100% spot on!
Great video 😊😊 What If the ekstra power relays are connected directly on the alternator when ignition is off. Will the power run back through the app ?
If I understand the question correctly. The relays don’t draw power on their own. If the relays are activated with the key off (engine not running), or the alternator is in-op, the current for all loads is sourced from the battery, Yes, this current will flow through the ammeter under this condition and register as a discharge. This is why the need to upsize all of charge circuit wiring and by-pass the related bulkhead connectors. An original ammeter in good shape with good insulators/connections can handle a great deal of current for short periods of time.
Thanks :) :) @@72roadrunnergtxI´m planning relays for headlight low and high beam. Normally will I take the power from the battery. But the correctly way is to take the power from B+ on the alternator. On my setup, I had bypassed the amp meter and taped the wiring together back on the cluster.
Nicely done video! Thank you for taking the time to share!
For those of us new to working on old cars (Chrysler, specifically) the ammeter is the actual gauge in the cluster, correct?
Thanks for the video. Some of us are visual learners, especially when not familiar with the terminology/vernacular.